Why Your Kitchen Extractor is Your Secret Weapon Against Winter Damp & Mould - MUST WATCH

[@CharlieDIYte]

🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. ☕Patreon membership www.patreon.com/charlieDIYte - includes Discord access. ☕Buy Me a Coffee bit.ly/3xuQ3zb - to help support my Channel - also use it for membership a bit like Patreon. 👚Charlie DIYte Official Merch Store charlie-diyte.myspreadshop.co.uk/ - all new range of professionally designed merch.

[@dan7777]

imagine the air quality and humidity levels in Charlie's house. must be cleaner than a hospital! 😁

[@Mushed2000]

😂

[@jablot5054]

That wouldn't be hard to do.

[@carolinepark4033]

We live in a damp Cornish valley in a grade 2 listed granite house. Aside from 3 dehumidifiers and a kitchen extractor and humidity readers, I’ve found opening all the windows whenever it’s a clear day really reduces the humidity. Just have to remember to close them at least 2-4 hours before dusk or the damp comes back in.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Yes that's great work Caroline. Have you considered a PIV too?

[@AG64845]

Just wanted to mention, as you said you were banging on about humidity in homes for a while. Well, thanks to you i now feel i have a great grasp on humidity in the home and actually understand how to manage it. I've got a condensing dehumidifier that goes on in the colder months especially as we need to dry some clothes indoors. We use the right mix of ventilation and humidity control and i get to check the numbers are not too high. I've visited many homes that have damp and mould growing around the windows and i don't because of the simplicity you gave this topic.

[@nattybking]

We had a kitchen quote from Wren a year or so ago and after explaining that we have issues with mould and condensation, the "kitchen designer" tried (and failed) to fob us off with some nonsense about carbon filters holding and retaining excess moisture, just because his design skills didn't stretch to reconfiguring an existing kitchen layout (our hob is on an internal wall). He also tried to tell us that underfloor heating was a waste of money and that we just needed some "blower type" heaters built in beneath our cabinets that we would need to manually switch on on a cold North Notts winter morning. This was after I'd already told him that my aim was to avoid as many nooks and crannies (for spiders and slugs to get into the kitchen, dust and grime to build up in etc) as possible. Needless to say, we won't be buying a kitchen from Wren. I love your content Charlie, it was your previous videos about damp and condensation that led us to Envirovent and we barely have any issue with mould since having the PIV system installed. Thank you.❤

[@jamesdcuk]

Crikey I thought wren were supposed to be premium! They sound like cowboys

[@lenrichardson7349]

@@jamesdcuk They are good cabinets but like any trades if you want a good result it helps if you know a bit yourself and know what you want. I've got a Wren Kitchen and I'm very happy with it, but I fitted it. So any issues (and there were lots) were fixed and not hidden.

[@jablot5054]

Never get a sales rep to design a kitchen. They are on commission to get as much crap into your kitchen as possible. Most kitchens come from the same factory just rebranded.

[@ratgreen]

I just recently did my kitchen fan in my house (which was not hooked up at all, it just went into the loft space, and now all my roof joists are moldy. And that was done in the 90's... I did flexi pipe as short as possible, and then solid PVC pipe, in a downward slope all the way to the wall vent, so that any condensation that will form in the pipe, can drain out. I had to core drill a 117mm hole through the brick and blockwork. To get my position right, I SDS drilled a pilot hole through both courses of brick/block, to see where I needed to drill on the outside. I also used a large geared non clutched SDS in drill only mode (not advised, always use a clutched drill with core drills). So to stop it snapping my wrists, I extended the SDS drills handle about 3 foot long, and drilled as slow as possible, so that if and when it bound up, I had a lot of leverage to stop it braking my arms, and also it would stop asap because I had it as slow as it would go. It took me a constant 45 minutes of drilling to do it on the engineering bricks (up a ladder outside with the drill above my head) and about 30 seconds on the blocks haha. I core drilled a tiny bit from the outside in, to avoid blowing the bricks out if I had just drilled from the inside out. But drilled mainly from inside out as I had a comfy position to drill from instead of up a ladder. Also just did my bathroom fan too, a manrose fan, mounted on a rubber bushing to isolate vibrations, and used insulated flexi pipe the foil type, which when stretched out is way smoother inside than the cheap white flexi pipe so has decent flow, again running downhill all the way to the wall vent. Previously it was all the cheap flexi, running upwards to a roof tile vent, with loads of unnecessary bends. And because it was going upwards, condensation had no where to go. When I first moved in, the condensation completely filled the flexi pipe with water to the point it blocked it completely. Crazy. I drained almost 5 litres of water out of it. Thats why I went to such extreme measures to get it all downhill, so it can drain.

[@jamesdcuk]

I’ve just fit a flexi that goes from an inline fan and up 150mm to a roof tile! I better check on it… hopefully it will be okay as the run is only about 400mm

[@1x3dil]

Hi Charlie I used 4inch drain pipe for our kitchen ductwork , although a straight run like yours it’s probably a couple of meters longer . Works fine and of course the extracted air is never really hot so no concerns in that regard , I agree entirely with your assessment of the flexible type often used , as in our case mice can chew through such ducting . Yes like you we live in the country in a relatively modern house , that has quite a lot of work done . Yet these little creatures still manage to find a way in bless their little cotton socks . Just a little aside as a retired electrical contractor , I often was called out to various council buildings that had electrical Velux windows installed . Invariably they would stop working after five years or so , and inevitably would pack up in the open position . So just be aware that as a simple manual product they are the best on the market , and will go on for years . But yours may prove a problem at some point . Kind regards as always .

[@chrissyboy123456789]

Hello. I Like the install. I have had a similar situation and went for the biggest twin fan hood and kept all pipe as jointless as possible. I would always suggest to people considering the recircultion hood units --dont bother. My kitchen is never steamed up and with easy home designed external wind flaps and cowl unit i have no back draught. PS... I now have all my girls turning the kettle off before it belches steam.. they didnt believe me but had them watch one of your previous condensation videos... thanks

[@CharlieDIYte]

Well done them and you 👌 My family are still a bit reluctant particularly with keeping the shower window open when in use but that and squeegeeing the screen is an absolute game changer with keeping moisture levels low.

[@bwielgus]

Excellent video Charlie as always…. Really clear! We’ve got a 300 year old cottage in Somerset and the air quality is a serious problem. We’re really trying to improve it but it’s hard to work out what can be done. This helps with ideas.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Check out my most recent video on heat recovery and if it's damp you're struggling with, a PIV might be the answer kzbin.info/www/bejne/i17Lh4iZr9-fgpYsi=SCOP2KKB_a8Hor2K

[@mrjh8467]

Been waiting for this one. I have done something similar two months ago. Will try to share pics. Only used plastic ducting and some aluminium flexi to connect as the fan was slightly off to the pipe. Think I will need some of that sealant you used, but unsure. I had to get someone in to do the core drill. But the method you used was great. Thanks for sharing as always.

[@Tomm9y]

The extraction looks great and is neatly done. It seems like a lot of equipment for something that can be done by a good routine and the odd use of a dehumidifier. I guess the equipment is needed in homes where don't have a clue. I have heard horror stories from landlords, but they have found the PIV systems and bathroom trickle fans to be very effective for the disinterested tenants. For years I have found that opening the window in the bathrooms after use, opening bedroom windows in the morning and opening the kitchen windows has been fine. When cooking, the filter hob fan is enough to clean the air and move it around for escape out of the window. It is probably easier in a detached house when you have more choices to manage the effect of the wind. The occasional use of a dehumidifier is useful. As you say, no drying of laundry in doors. I use a separate room to dry laundry with the dehumidifier if necessary, but hang outside when possible.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Spot on mate. At the end of the day a few basic common sense steps keep on top of the problem but so many people just ignore that and have to deal with the consequences.

[@pault1289]

This is a really helpful series of videos, thank you!

[@pspr33]

I think you'd quite massively benefit from running Home Assistant to do some automation in your property. With the all hygrometers you have and some of the hardware, you'd needn't have needed to purchase the Velux sensor hardware as I'm sure the same functionality could have been done within HA (albeit not quite as straightforward). You should definitely look into it at some point if you haven't already!

[@CharlieDIYte]

I really do need to. A few guys on my Discord channel run HA. I'm just concerned I'm not quite techy enough to get my head around it. 😉 The Zephyr can also be integrated into it.

[@ridgmont61]

This is great timing - new kitchen extractor arrived on Friday morning.

[@whomadethatsaltysoup]

Great video. I've got terrible problems with humidity in the winter. I use the same window cleaning tool as you to remove the worst of it from the bathroom after showering, and from the bedroom windows in the morning. The ancient fan in the kitchen has never worked, and although I'm planning to fit a new kitchen, I might just go belt and braces - replacing the existing fan with a more modern and effective unit. Good tip on using the rigid ducting to reduce the drag on the airflow. It's an easy win with minimal extra cost. Again, thanks as ever for taking the time to share. Best of luck with the rest of the renovation.

[@roybatty2030]

Excellent video, thanks. Nice duct run. Pressure drop down a 5” exhaust duct will be minimal. Would have been quite a bit higher if you’d used 4”, reducing the flow rate. That said, those centrifugal fans are designed to have enough pressure to push air through dirty filters and you’ve now dispensed with the charcoal filter so you had some spare pressure in hand.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Cheers mate. 👊

[@robertbeal]

Nice to see. We did exactly this in our old house (similar looking good but Italian made) and the extractor was incredible (only a 1m run). So much so we had to rethink fitting a wood burner way over on the far side of the room. Our cowl had a black foam lining which avoided the noise. But magnet is a better solution though as it'll keep it closed. Be careful if using an LLM AI to do calculations. As it's language based, not maths based. So the calculations can sometimes be completely wrong.

[@jamesdcuk]

Yes I was about to mention the faulty GPT maths. The formulas are usually correct from experience but the numbers can be nonsense

[@Truman77.]

Thanks to your video on humidity, I now have a desiccant dehumidifier, mainly to reduce the humidity in the home. Generally the house feels warmer and I wonder if this reduces heating costs? Here in the North East we get outside humidity levels of up to 100%, so opening windows is not a solution. So I installed trickle vents and this helps reduce condensation and aids cross flow of air.

[@JohnnyMotel99]

Every house is it's own unique case. I live near the sea and we reugarly have external humidity in the upper 70%-80%. That means the interior humidy is going to be less but still elevated. I do have condensation on the windows but no mould anywhere.

[@DerekTJ]

You really are the man who loosened the jar

[@rosspage7734]

Love seeing a new video pop up on my screen from your channel. My cooker hood is dreadful so I'm looking forward to sitting down and giving this a proper watch!

[@CharlieDIYte]

Thanks Ross - really appreciate you watching my videos. 👊

[@rosspage7734]

​@CharlieDIYte it's a great video which further highlights the inadequacies of new build properties. We have, what I assume, is a cheap cooker hood which has foam/paper filters, not even the carbon ones you showed in your video. Unfortunately to get the epic solution you have installed here, I'd have to figure out a way to get it to work with the extractor pipe that comes out of the boiler. A job I'm a long way off doing I think.

[@denty44]

Great video, more like this please, about to embark on my own renovation and want to install diy ventilation, not all that keen on the big mvhr units and smaller distributed extraction seems to be the way to go.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Thanks mate. You kill yourself doing a video and it gets minimal views but that's why comments like yours are so important 😉👊

[@littlestardazed]

​@@CharlieDIYte Love the videos, you are doing an invaluable service for us diyers!!

[@TheBClark88]

After issues with previous kitchens, I put a strong priority on extraction when it came to installing our new kitchen earlier this year. I spent as much on the hood as I did on the oven, and vented it to the outside wall with a 150mm ducting. There is one small section that drops to 100mm to navigate an immovable beam, which is not ideal, but overall it works very well. I also fitted a spring loaded backdraft plate (I forget that correct name) to stop the cold getting back in when the extractor is not running. The whole system is a bit louder than I would like (due to the small 100mm section forcing the fan to work a little harder), but given how much air it pulls out the room I'll take it. It also communicates with my hob, so turns on automatically, which is great for when my wife cooks as she tends to forget to turn it on. I love extraction!

[@danthelambboy]

Can you dampen the venting sound? Could put plastic pipeline over it then fill the void with spray foam then put 3m damping pads on the outside of it

[@TheBClark88]

@ the noise is mostly from the fan in the extractor itself, and audible through the opening the air goes into. It’s a built in type, sitting in a wall unit, which is then itself skinned in MDF and painted, so it has 20mm+ of insulate material around it. Thanks for the suggestion though.

[@Jimaha]

Just a tip, if you need a high power hood extractor you can look at Chinese domestic market hoods. For £250 you can get 1200m³/h, downside is pipes are 200mm.

[@JurassicJungle]

Great video Charlie. We were able to go for MVHR but that as less difficult as we have a bungalow. It was so bad when we started with so much dark mould. It has been brilliant for us so far but as you say it wont workfor many as its too hard to install as a retrofit. It has not got cold yet but so far we are very very happy.

[@jasonwatson9011]

We have too many wood burners in the local area making PIV impractical as all it would do is pull smoke from outside, into the loft and than onto the landing. So much for a smokeless zone. Good job on that ducting and the chimney mod.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Sorry to hear that Jason. They do have filters on them. I wonder if that might help? Worth investigating further I reckon.

[@mich29sm]

I had a similar problem. I filtered out the bad smells with self-made carbon filter. I have spent £27 to buy 1m x 1m x 3mm 'Activated carbon foam' on popular bidding website, folded it 2 times (gives 4 layers), cut to fit the circular intake and added some fixing (3d print custom made clips). After 6 months I rinsed it with water as a maintenance, and considering replacing soon (18months already). Still have some leftovers of this foam, would be probably enough for another one. Thinking about some sort of sieve-foam-sieve to fit into my intake. In this scenario I would load cutoffs of my foam between sieves. For this amount of ££ and time I suppose it is worth to have relatively odourless air.

[@jasonwatson9011]

@@CharlieDIYte It would be an expensive trial. We still have a back boiler (I know but its still in working order and I've been over ruled) so have air vents that pull smoke in. It never used to be an issue but with wood burners becoming more popular we regularly get smoked out. As it is we have always had regular routine to "air out" the house every day, now on a programmed drayton wiser heating shut down. I have checked in the attic at times we get smoked out. As the loft has a good cross flow it can get smoky as well. So for now the PIV is on the back burner.

[@sa00287]

Thanks that's very useful. I feel like it's going to be a bad year for damp as the outdoor humidity is still very high

[@andrewmorgan1802]

I went with an external motor for my cooker hood. It's much quieter and extraction is excellent.

[@charlescp1558]

Yes, when we did our kitchen, we wanted something quieter than the usual hoods or wall-fitted fan. Our motor lives on the utility flat roof. On first setting you can barely hear anything and we don’t need higher settings unless something has burnt. Because of the short but tortuous route through walls and roof cavity I had to use flexible duct. Touch wood, no condensation issues. Another great video Charlie, informative as ever. Charles

[@andrewmorgan1802]

@@charlescp1558 Luckily ours has a straight one with a rigid duct to an outside wall.

[@philipwilliams8114]

Fantastic and inspiring. Enjoyed that much more than I thought I would 😊

[@CharlieDIYte]

Thanks so much Philip. Struggling with the motivation at the moment so encouragement like this is so valuable 👌👊

[@101projects2]

I do Air purging about once a week for a few minutes each time, by opening the front door and rear patio door which are in line with each other and an instant through draught is created.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Excellent work 👌💥

[@russellscott1151]

Is there great benefit to insulating the downstairs ceilings? I can imagine there is some sound proofing benefits but given you’ve insulated the hell out of the roof ceilings??

[@CharlieDIYte]

It was really just to manage sound but it will also contain the heat in the kitchen - which is a shame in a way, given the thermal benefits of spreading the kitchen heat around the house.

[@alexaustin5568]

Thanks for the info. Thoughts on using one of those extracting induction hobs instead of a hood?

[@tiagdvideo]

Great video - just what I'm looking at. Looking forward to the next one already

[@andyc972]

Thanks Charlie, an interesting ( if slightly exhausting 😉 ) video, I'd certainly never considered all of this, so it is food for thought ! We have the same extractors on our bathroom and ensuite and the same cooker hood as was installed when the house was built 20+ years ago so it could do with a review. Added to this we're currently avoiding using the hood as a resourceful blue tit has taken up residence roosting in the exhaust cowl of an evening just when we're most likely to be using it ! 🙄

[@CharlieDIYte]

Cheers Andy. That's a shame but they are very cute - and the reason I keep recharging the bird feeder👊

[@peterelliott2914]

Good point about the air intake. My bathroom extractor just doesn't work without leaving the door open (it doesn't have a window).

[@jyoung9181]

Really well done install of the ducting!

[@jamesripper]

sounds like your not using the schedule for the velux window to air the room etc... if you did have it on a schedule does it have some way of knowing if its raining? or checking local weather or something ? just curious

[@mjfaderway]

knows when and if it might and doesnt let you open all the way if raining will start soon

[@jamesripper]

@mjfaderway ah cool, just checking if it was fairly intelligent ✌️

[@mjfaderway]

@@jamesripper yep i also have the windows open if there is too much co2 build up in the roof or if its too hot

[@CharlieDIYte]

Yes it's got a rain sensor that automatically closes the window.

[@pvdzster]

Hi Charlie, Not sure if you answer questions but would be really keen just in case. I've got a hall which has no window on top and is a bit of a nightmare for stagnant and moist air. I've got a tile vent in my cold roof attick upstairs and I was thinking about adding in a passive vent on the roof via a duct to the roof tile vent. I've heard good things about the passive wall vents so was wondering if basically it works just being turned vertically instead of horizontally. Thoughts very welcome!

[@CharlieDIYte]

The thing about wall vents is they don't have to duct very far - typically just a couple of courses of bricks. The trouble with what you're suggesting is will there be a long run from the roof tile vent to the vent in the ceiling of the hall? Have you considered a PIV?

[@pvdzster]

@@CharlieDIYte Thank you very much indeed for the response! The roof tile vent is low down and quite close to where the ceiling vent would go so I'm hoping for a distance of not much more than 600mm. I'm not fully sold on PIVs as while they appear to be great for condensation I've heard from some that they don't necessarily reduce humidity in the house and that's the main thing I want to tackle to avoid getting ill. I may be wrong about that though!?

[@GU__NI]

We have an extractor fan with no filter and no outside exctraction, how do fix it without opening up the ceiling as it's most likely an old asbestos one?

[@lazylad8544]

Good video Charlie this one wasn't just hot air 😉👍

[@boyceuk]

Hi Charlie, I’m wondering why you have the hood fitted so high above the hob? The recommendation is 650mm above electric (and 750mm for gas) but from the drawings you show, yours looks more like 800-900mm, reducing the amount of steam directly sucked away. I fitted a new one last week, replacing a cheapo B&Q one. Typical extractors always seem to be VERY weak or SOOO loud that people don’t use them. So I opted for an AEG SilentTech 9000. Powerful and quiet in the lower modes. And uses 150mm ducting, for better flow (100mm seems most common). I found some ducting called semi-ridged Aluminium, which was great as the exit hole was very close with a tight bend, but still gives the low noise and condensation similar to full ridged like yours.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Yes it was 810mm above the hob. Simple reason is we're both quite tall and anything less than this and we'd be banging our heads when cooking 😉

[@jeffrdrama7984]

The duct on my extractor pops off if i turn it on too high. Any idea how I can make it attach better? Love the magnet idea BTW, I will have to do something similar

[@CharlieDIYte]

The plastic bit? You might need a couple of self tapping screws each side.

[@stevejohnny1111]

@@CharlieDIYte Yeah it's like a black plastic ring that sort of clips onto the hole in the extractor. If I turn it up to max, eventually it pops off and I have to get up there and refit it. Right pain. The thing came with barely any instructions and I think my kitchen fitter and/or electrician have bodged it. They used one of those flexi pipes as well! I'm going to see about replacing it with a solid one like you've suggested. It only goes up about a foot then straight outside.

[@damienocarroll2770]

👌. But where does it all end!!

[@CharlieDIYte]

With this weekend's video 😉

[@aadd3538]

We have vents open on most of the window which reduces the stuffiness.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Good work 👌

[@Cool-Mint]

@charliediyte in any of you cooker hood research did you find a quieter solution, we’re reluctant to use ours as it sounds like a jet engine when on full power.

[@CharlieDIYte]

I know what you mean but it's not very often you need it on and I'd say the benefits outweigh half an hour of noise 🤔 No I didn't look into quieter options to be honest

[@einsam_aber_frei]

It’s useful only if your extractor has a ventilation pipe going out. Mine is only filtering and circulating the air within the kitchen.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Agreed as I said in the video. Sorry to hear you can't get yours venting externally.

[@simonloat7285]

Charlie, I think I can make use of the charcoal filters you are selling. What’s the best way to organise?

[@paulharvey4403]

I wondered if the duct needs to be sloped down towards the outside wall, so that any condensation heads out rather than staying in the pipe?

[@CharlieDIYte]

Yes, as I said in the video, I sloped the duct down. 😉

[@Joe-jg5vs]

You could have stuck a bit of a rubber seal on the flap outside to dampen the noise.

[@CharlieDIYte]

It already has a seal and that didn't help.

[@shaun30-3-mg9zs]

Hi Charlie, Great video on resolving condensation and humidity problems. You have a good cooker hood ventilation and it's pretty power full and at times that is needed. Take care

[@lksf9820]

I'm looking forward to your reaction when it sucks the bacon an eggs out of the pan and up the duct 😂 Well done on the install, a great video. I had to study airflow as part of my job so can pass on these: You've got to get the CSA of the duct correct (to match the fan), too small and it'll choke, too big and airflow will slow down (due to lack of velocity). There is very little flow loss in a straight run so (long) length is not a problem unless it's a ridiculous distance. Flow losses are incurred at every bend and obstacle. This means keeping bends to a minimum, gradual and as well formed as possible. I.E. Instead of using one 90' bend use two 45' bends. I can see you've employed these principles hence the good airflow. My advice with kitchens is to always have one with a door on it, I cringe when I see these open plan houses. Nobody wants the grease and smell in the air drifting into the rest of the house, it gets into fabric and everything. Also being able to shut the door means you're not sucking the heat out of the whole house, just the kitchen and as you point out, opening a window helps a lot. One important thing not mentioned yet is oil and grease build up inside the ducting, will be interesting to see if or how you tackle that. I suppose if you don't do a lot of frying it won't be an issue, but look at the extraction system outside any FF takeaway or commercial kitchen and you'll see a lot going on in that respect. Like you i'm currently intelligently restoring an old solid walled, damp property. The things we find are just so wrong it's almost beyond belief. The previous owners knew the house was damp, but instead of fitting a kitchen extract to help, they've gone for a recirc, even though it's on an external wall. Looking forward to part two.

[@GaryT1952]

Coming from a commercial cooking background, I'd be more concerned about grease extraction from cooking vapors and how to keep that long run clean and limit fire hazard

[@Swwils]

Duct is metal

[@CharlieDIYte]

Regular cleaning of the grease filters should deal with that.

[@muddin8097]

Any chance you could explain a bit more about this?

[@colinfarrell6444]

Another great vid - thank you

[@CharlieDIYte]

Thanks Colin 👊

[@Car-guy307]

Why does opening the Velux maximise the efficiency of the kitchen extractor?

[@ke161co]

how come you didnt use the insulation batts on the wall? did you just put the mineral wool inbetween the timber battens?

[@davestarkie9977]

I've bought a house that has a fairly new kitchen by a reputable uk firm with an island where the fan (being at kitchen top level) extracts into the sub floor!! Not sure if thats a good thing with the timbers down there but not seen any evidence that is is causing issues.

[@Pete.Ty1]

👍👍👍. Thank you Charlie

[@willmorgan6867]

How loud is the extractor? I’ve got an open plan kitchen and have been looking for a nice quiet brushless motor replacement. Rigid ducting is definitely the way for quietness and efficiency.

[@CharlieDIYte]

It is loud Will. We have to turn the music up a bit when it's on. Small price to pay though for total extraction 😉

[@willmorgan6867]

@@CharlieDIYteHaha! I would love to see a follow up video with you acoustically isolating each moving part of the fan but suspect I shouldn’t hold my breath! 😂

[@MrFlyby34]

Good video. I used a Butterfly Damper and worked fine. Looking fwd to the next vid. Thanks, Bert

[@rinakaur7245]

At a recent newbuild visit, I saw an induction cooker that had extraction built into the cooker surface and not above rhe cooker. Are these just as good as the overhead ones?

[@Swwils]

They can be as good if installed correct. In a new build it won't be as they typical require 200mm ducts as the extraction velocity is much lower.

[@m0aze611]

Our extractor is built into our hob (Neff/Bosch/Siemens) and it’s brilliant you can see the steam bending down into the extractor. We were originally going for one that pops up out of the worktop behind the hob but they are expensive and consume a floor unit for the mechanics and motor.

[@westwonic]

Trickle vents make a big difference to humidity levels.

[@CharlieDIYte]

They certainly do!

[@philipwilliams8114]

May I ask what the AI program was? Cheers Charlie lad

[@CharlieDIYte]

It was the Grok on Twitter 👊

[@danthelambboy]

Why heat recovery and not energy recovery?

[@capitalinventor4823]

Great video. I have two comments about homes in Canada and how they are different to those in the UK. I don't know if there is a regulation concerning air extraction from kitchens here. Or at least there wasn't in the 1990s. The only concern was that an exhaust fan had to exist and this function was handled by the exhaust fan in the bathrooms. They seem to believe that bathroom exhaust fans provide enough moisture removal. Of course in the winter it can be much colder here and our problem is actually trying to get moisture into the air rather than remove it. :) Many of our houses use central heating with forced air through ducts. It has also allowed the easy adaption of central air conditioning. As a bonus it makes adding a whole home heat recovery air ventilation system very easy too because it just requires two (ideally, some systems use one) holes to be created in the wall for fresh and stale air. The existing duct work near the furnace is used to access the house air. (Some systems are installed slightly different. My first system used the air return closest to the kitchen to get the stale air and then placed the fresh, new air in the duct going to the furnace. Still much easier than having to run ducting throughout a building.)

[@Woodkin007]

7:50 for anyone who has nearly lost fingers to a blade 😮😬

[@CharlieDIYte]

I was waiting for someone to point that out. 👍

[@Woodkin007]

@CharlieDIYte apologies, I suspect I may be borderline autistic. But please let me add that you have made a great channel and deserve success.

[@Flat-Five]

Thanks for helping us get our ducts in a row

[@CharlieDIYte]

🤣

[@ridgmont61]

Why didn’t you use solid plastic pipe?

[@Swwils]

Diameter, rodents, fire. Why cheap out for the sake of £100?

[@hogg8888]

You should checkout the new regs for these. Even qualified electricians can't fit them now on their competent person's schemes. Let along the painter decorators

[@CharlieDIYte]

Interesting.. It was my electrician who fitted it.

[@Swwils]

Good

[@islandhvacsystems1619]

PIV needs careful consideration. These are not a widely recommended method of a ventilation strategy as per PART F Building Regs. We've seen instances where the moisture is pushed behind the breathable dot and dab plasterboard, resulting in mould forming. Essentially, you can just end up pushing problems elsewhere.

[@CharlieDIYte]

It's a good point. As with everything they need to be part of a carefully managed ventilation strategy. I'll make this point in the next video. 👌👊

[@bastiat691]

Good work, it was butt clenching to watch your use of the angle grinder though.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Thanks. Yes I need to up my H&S on the grinder work.

[@bastiat691]

@@CharlieDIYte Please do, would prefer you to keep your fingers :)

[@nathan87]

I'd be very careful using AI to do calculations, charlie, particularly if you don't check it. AI is good at churning out information, but can be hit and miss when it comes to logical reasoning. Much better to get hold of the fan performance curves and tot it up yourself.

[@jeffreyjordan2986]

leave a window open

[@apmullen]

Charlie not using a core drill is the best way! What a load of nonsense in my opinion. Maybe you don't have one, but the finished result is far better. That's why contractors use them. Misleading info.

[@matthewwakeham2206]

Not better if it gets stuck in the wall. As he said older engineering bricks are nothing like modern bricks.

[@apmullen]

Mathew have you ever used a core drill? Never had one stuck as you say

[@apmullen]

I stick by my original comment to you and Charlie, what a load of nonsense!

[@apmullen]

And use the proper tools not DIY Dave stuff,;

[@CharlieDIYte]

It's not the getting stuck. Try drilling incredibly hard bricks with a core drill. It's not fun

[@martinwinlow]

It seems a great shame that whilst you had the chance (gutted rooms) you did not install MVHR. The cost (DIY) would have been recouped in a couple of years and you would have zero excess moisture issues AND be saving a small fortune in heating costs thereafter. Your 610m3/hr extractor is chucking 3kW of heat out with the smelly air (assuming inside temperature of 20C and outside at 5C - realistically, the temperature differential ('delta-T') is probably a lot more extreme than that a lot of the time). No one *ever* talks about how much heat energy is being wasted if the building regs guidelines are followed on ventilation rates - they are completely ludicrous (in the context of just expelling that quantity of expensively heated air and replacing it with cold outside air) . It equates to a constant loss of about 150W (3.6kWh every day) at the 15° temperature difference I used above for a typical 3 bed house - this is, of course, on top of whatever thermal losses the fabric of the building has (in the usual way). It is no wonder there are so many homes - rentals, especially - that are suffering from dangerously high moisture levels leading to severe mould growth. Any form of ventilation is immediately sealed up to stop cold draughts and cut heating bills!! Talk about elephants in rooms...! As for taking a highly thermally efficient, triple glazed window and then *whacking a great hole though it* (trickle vent), I really can't think of anything more utterly moronic. What is needed in the UK (and which has been completely normal in most other European homes for decades) is whole-house mechanical ventilation - ideally with heat recovery. The hardware is comparatively cheap and easy to install - especially at new-build or major renovation stages.

[@CharlieDIYte]

I was fortunate building regs didn't make me put trickle vents in my bifolds but I agree. The thing about the mvhr is we were haemorrhaging money and just couldn't have afforded it. Also we have no problems with moisture given the steps I take but I hear you - it would have been the best option. As would EWI

[@frankkimono2255]

Those trickle vents drive me mad - ruin windows, leak heat and noise, they are an ugly hack to provide an illusion of ventilation - you may get a little more fresh air but then you still get mould to cancel out this benefit. This winter I have them all closed (they still leak a bit) and use a 300W desiccant dehumidifier in a 3-bed semi with all doors in the house open. No more mould or condensation on windows and it doubles up as a gentle heater circulating air that is enough to maintain house temperature on milder days. It's crazy how well this arrangement works. It's also a hack but a good one, now looking into upgrading this to a proper solution like MVHR. Would an MVHR system suck out kitchen air well enough though? I'm also considering replacing my useless recirculating hood fan with an extractor. I think the idea is to keep the the kitchen isolated from the rest of the house during operation so the heat loss would only affect that one room and for limited periods. Currently more serious cooking requires opening front and back door if I want to stop the house smelling like dinner for the rest of the day - not a great solution in winter months.