PEX A vs PEX B: Pros and Cons 🤔

[@willplumb]

If you want to learn how to size your water lines with PEX, watch our newer video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZKsm4x9otyHqJI

[@spencer1001100]

Hey William's plumbing and heating. Did you know they make cold expansion rings now? Closes in the cold and wont slip off if wet. They have been out for about a year.

[@orijimi]

I think this video has pretty misleading information about cost and working in tight spaces because the existence of cinch clamp is completely ignored.

[@kittysch2]

Just what I was looking for. All channels requests to tap the LIKE button. Your presentation deserves the LIKE click!!! 👏 best "xplainer?"

[@tinman1955]

I hate PEX. I find it very difficult to get a good solder joint.

[@AZTechLabs]

sorry pex isn't stable long term. learn your craft first

[@marshallferron]

I think it's worth mentioning that PEX-A is fully compatible with all the joining methods you can use on PEX-B so if you have PEX-A installed but only have access to PEX-B type fittings you can still use those for repairs.

[@QnQoooo]

good to know. i never knew it.

[@1zebula1]

I was just about to ask this question. Awesome! Cheers.

[@kiwiswat]

Yup, I have some Viega pex B and pureflow my plumber put in. But I am going to do few showers later and Im going with type A. Eventually I will transition those but you can still use make a transition between pex A and B with the crimp fittings. Only thing is Uponor does not warranty that joint and the warranty time on the system is lowered overall. But this is does not matter to a DYIer since their work wont be covered regardless

[@motorbreath7174]

Confusing messages beyond belief. My plumber friend told me you can also expand type B pex and use expansion fittings on that. Just bought the sharkbite tool and used the copper ring system.

[@ilovefunnyamv2nd]

@@motorbreath7174 just make sure its fully inserted, and the tube ends and even and burr free. those sharkbites are the least reliable joining method, usually because its relying on pressing against an oring and staying held in place

[@alanleonard8739]

Another benefit of pex-A is that pretty much all of the fittings are buriable. Pex-B requires the fancier and more expensive stainless or brass rings for burial. Also, folks, let your expender do its 1/8 turn prior to pushing in in for another stretch. You should see it turn each time it expands unlike in the brief example in his video.

[@harryl7946]

Best thing about KZbin, it never goes away! Learning never stops!!

[@memyself5924]

Uphonor is being sued for pipe failure and houses less than 6 years old are flooding out from the pipe cracking where its expanded. They completely discontinued their pipe and changed it. We now use pex b with stainless fittings . Much less restriction and fittings last well over the 25 year warranty.

[@bobwintonyk9104]

One thing you have not touched on when it comes to low pressure whether it be A or B pex is that pex was originally designed to be used in a home run system where individual lines are run to each fixture from the manifold thus giving constant volume and pressure.

[@5thGenNativeTexan]

Great point!

[@jameso8871]

But how many of the cheap guys who don't know what they're doing (I work in an area where licenses are only required in the cities) are NOT running homeruns because they're installing the cheapest system they can?

[@invertedsavage3978]

Probly not by the book right but I basically made my own manifold using 3/4 inch pex and T fittings. 3/4 in 3/4 out with 1/2 inch off the side and then the third and final T is 3/4 in 1/2 out with 1/2 out the side one line running to my sink the other to my bath. So the main line is 3/4 inch with 1/2 inch line running off that to each tap. Think I can get away with that, My thinking was the 3/4 mainline to 1/2 would give me good pressure, same idea as having a 3/4 manifold with 1/2 lines. Small off grid cabin artesian well with a shit ton of water pressure feeding a kitchen sink, bathroom sink, tub and toilet.

[@jimbo4203]

Retired from the mobile home industry recently. We switched from using cpvc ( glued) to pex b 10 years ago and it was great for me. I ran the service department and was constantly chasing water leaks , from cracked, frozen pipes, bad glue joints etc. The pex was way more reliable and easier to repair when something goes wrong. Also Lowe's sells a crimping tool that works fine for about 30 bucks

[@deadmanswife3625]

Every review I have seen says you need some serious muscles to use it

[@SudoVII]

@@deadmanswife3625 go to a plumbing supply house like Ferguson and get a one handed crimp tool. You need one for each size of pex but way easier to use. Can crimp 3/4 and 1/2 with little effort as long as you’re not crimping sideways over your head.

[@deadmanswife3625]

@@SudoVII ty

[@jeffreyverry7151]

I worked on both Million dollar homes to Mobile homes. I Hated Quest. I generally ran copper in most cases. I installed Water treatment systems and installed Well Pumps both Submersible and Jet Pumps. I also had the “Pleasure” of working on Piston Water Pumps.. I really like PEX. I generally recommend 3/4 Type B due to pressure and volume concerns with 1/2”. I prefer the SS pinch clamps because of space issues. My Most installed item locally was Water Softeners. Some areas around me can have up to 20 GPG. Which is Very Hard water..

[@reggiekenner1527]

This is all great advice for sure. I had to replace virtually the entire hot water line in the attic of my rental house with PEX B. First time. Used the pinch type clamps. The half-inch PEX, using copper connectors, was smaller than the 1/2" galvanized I was replacing that went to the vanity and shower (I had to cut through a closet wall in two places to do this) but the galvanized was so badly rusted inside that I couldn't see through a one-foot piece. The water pressure after replacement was easily twice what it was before, both in the shower and in the vanity. The 3/4" galvanized line that I had to replace all the way back to the water heater was just as badly clogged. At 70 years old, I spent 5 days in that attic (fortunately, my daughter, also my tenant there, were able to be out of town for that week) but the hardest part was climbing that ladder each day. My house was built in the late 70s. The next-door neighbor was able to make use of the roll of PEX I had left over doing his water lines. Nice to be able to buy the PEX in red, for the hot line, and Blue, for the cold. My best idea was to disconnect the hot water line at the water heater outlet, use my shop vac to clear the lines of water before using the Sawzall to cut those long runs of pipe. Literally no water in any of the pipe I cut. Still got another shower/vanity and then all the way to the kitchen. I have no idea where those lines run down that wall.

[@dianedomey3749]

🎉Hi Reggie great post If I were living in your area I’d help you complete the rest of your DIY plumbing I love DIY projects …as for locating OLD COPPER PIPES in the walls they do make an excellent tool that WILL locate all Magnetic (wires and such) AND NON MAGNETIC (copper is non magnetic) it sells for about $20-$50 depending on the Brand you buy. The Zircon brand is a decent price of about $20-$35 I’ll bet Lowes or Home Depot sells It. Yet if you 😢🎉have access to the internet i feel pricing and delivery is sooo much better like on Amazon. Now if you own a good Stud finder you can also use it to find where and if it goes thru a stud to the fixture site like to where the cabinet is. You should have it easier with the two tools and good batteries I also like PEX A due to it being able to take freezing better decreasing the chance of rupturing. Ohhhh and when it comes to the rest of your plumbing you really should look for the UTube video that talks about using a “MANIFOLD” system to set up and attach and bring each Hot and Cold PEX line NEATLY/ORGANIZED INTO A “Manifold System Set UP it’s located where the main cold water intake comes into the house at the hot water tank site (attaching It to the manifold) and to the hot water heater and from the hot water heater out to the “Manifold device” which will have each and every single cold and hot water PEX line going to each fixture/appliance water in an emergency since each PEX line will come into the Manifold having its very own shut off valve on EACH PEX LINE And if you have just one pex line running to each fixture no splicing needed the PEX can literally be run enormous lengths without the need to splice for added length Ive run it 30 feet I like the 1” gives better water pressure even with short lengths I don’t have to worry pressure is seats great. All Good luck and I’m looking forward to seeing a DIY video of the work you did. Oh your studs can be anywhere from 12”-16” to( 18” very rare) on center I’d look up the building code for the year it was built it should be posted. Wish you lived near me id help you I Love to do renovations and DIY projects. Ohh btw I’ve used closed cell insulation in the walls (exterior annnnnd interior) the ceilings and the ROOF not only did it make the best vapor barrier but it is amazing how it insulates the PEX and literally fills in where any and all air leaks were and made the house cheaper to heat and cool by hundred of dollars and depending on how big the house and are is I got the company to negotiate their price with me too. It’s going to cost us lots of money this winter I think. Check out the Manifold Device. I’ll bet it’s a big help for you like it’s for me feel free to email or text

[@danielschannel701]

@@dianedomey3749 I've got to fix the water burst up in the attic too after the freeze in Texas.

[@markrepovich2148]

I have been watching these plumbing & building videos now for the last year. This by far is ONE OF THE BEST breakdown videos I have watched. FYI: Licensed Master Plumber of Kentucky. Also, use Uponor myself. Have plumbed with the other types in other states, but this system of PEX-A is the best.

[@willplumb]

Thank you, Mark! More breakdown videos coming soon.

[@rickyclark9052]

A very kind helpful hint. Zurn firings do Not reduce pressure , but Does reduce volume. I think you just miss spoke , but you may want to explain and share that with watchers. I thought you did very well on your video. You did a good job of helping home owners. Keep up the good work.

[@franciscomedina4248]

Thanks you I thought it was just me. I have being using pex B for yr and there no Such. Think and reducing pressure.

[@joshuaslobodnik3942]

Reducing volume = reducing pressure once the volume the fixture uses (shower or whatever) exceeds the volume and the connection can pass.

[@caleblitwiller6267]

They don't reduce pressure while the water is stationary, but as it starts to move, they restrict the flow, and the venturi effect creates low pressure downstream.

[@trailerparkgarage6574]

When I was younger I always thought that bigger pipe meant it could carry more pressure but it’s kinda the opposite. Yes the type b will reduce volume size for size vs type a but it’s almost more important to me to have better pressure especially in the shower.

[@dontblameme6328]

Fluid pressure is created by a resistance to flow. Has absolutely nothing to do with volume. It's called physics... Or more specifically... Fluid dynamics.

[@georgedistel1203]

After retiring I purchased the pex a tool , completely gutted the plumbing system on my house. 1950's 1/2" galvanized piping nightmare removed and installed 3/4" main trunk lines with 1/2" branch lines to fixtures . I haven't regretted it once in the almost 2 years since I did it. I help out friends with plumbing problems but I don't do it during the winter months. Mostly because I'm old and don't care for the cold. One friend asked me why I don't use sharkbite fittings instead and I told him because they are too expensive and they are unsightly.

[@thejimmy6533]

I have a 1950s home with 1/2" galvanized piping that needs to be replaced. The water flow in my house has reduced quite a bit over the past 15 years my wife and I have owned it. I'm planning on replacing all of it with pex in the next couple of months. Would you like to come help us? haha. Your method of 3/4" for the main and 1/2" for the branch lines sounds like a good plan for us.

[@ricktomlinson5481]

No total PEX for this guy! Only copper for health reasons! [as far as drinking water goes] So a dedicated copper line to kitchen and bathroom sinks for the cold side. Rest can be PEX A or B. 😊🤩

[@contytub]

What if it's a running water type of instalation where water doesn't really stays in the pipe for long ?

[@hotwiredpc4079]

I never use copper compression rings with pex. I always use the stainless pinch ring so I don’t have to worry about alignment when clamping which is something you didn’t talk about in your video also you don’t need as big of a tool when using the stainless pinch rings so the tool can fit into tighter spaces.

[@WindyYucca]

I like the pinch ring style better also never had one leak and it's harder to mess it up.

[@customcreations-rickkramer5357]

That is something I was wondering about. Which type would be better. I think Im going to go with the steel cinch rings and not the copper. Now I just have to buy the tool and maybe pick up some some basic fittings along with a bag or two of the steel bands. That way Im ready to fix that pipe at 8pm on a sat night. Most stores around here are closed by 6pm mon - sat and most are closed on sunday.

[@realexperiences8748]

Stainless steel clamps are the way to go. And you can get a very reliable clamping tool for $25. I don't know why he quoted $150 for a crimper.

[@theclearsounds3911]

Very good explanation, and very understandable for beginners. I just moved from a copper pipe house to a PEX house, and was lost on how to make plumbing modifications/repairs. Your video helped a lot. Plus, I appreciate the bloopers; I've just never seen them at the beginning of a video! 😁

[@knuckledragger2412]

Been a plumber for 25 years and have used both. I've never had either system fail if installed properly and with common sense. Plastic fittings, I've seen those fail though. Seen tees crack and come in half a year after the install. Been using brass fittings ever since without issue, pex-b. People will argue this forever, both are good products and B is cheaper

[@ElRecopilador-wz9dn]

long live Pex B

[@mustangecoboosthpp3869]

One thing that seems to rarely be talked about is the difference between PEX A and PEX B being able to resist chlorine in water. PEX A is not as resistant to chlorine as PEX B is.

[@sibco96]

Great video. I'm a do-it-yourself guy who uses Pex-B for home and RV repairs. I was shopping for fittings at the home improvement store and started seeing a lot of parts labeled for Pex-A only, so that led me here.

[@avidube2973]

I know this is an older video and the tech has changed. PEX B (Zurn) has expansion fittings too and can use the same install tooling as PEX A in the appropriate size, although you are still required to use the right ZURN fittings. Additionally, PEXB does have some of the same pre-warming requirements as PEXA if you are using expansion fittings. Otherwise accurate. I think both are roughly equivalent in temperate climate use.

[@josecarbajal6706]

Has no one ever thought about keeping your rings in your cost pocket. That what I’ve always done and have no issues with the ring going back in cold days.

[@PeterLawton]

*coat pocket -- great idea

[@CL-yp1bs]

What about all the recalls on Uponor Pex-A? I thought I was set on Pex A until I heard about all these recalls on Pex-A uponor

[@HotZTrain]

I re-plumbed my house with Pex-A. Spend the money and buy the Milwaukee expansion tool, the manual one is too much of a hassle. One disadvantage to Pex A, your fittings can't much closer than about 3". The problem... when you put the expansion tool in the pipe on the second fitting, if too close to the first, it will jam and freeze inside the first fitting. I found out the hard way.

[@sethpawlik]

I watched a video by Matt Risinger and he did a burst test with pen pipe. The pex-a actually burst before the pex-b. That makes sense since the B is more Rigid. Don’t be afraid of the pex-b bursting.

[@senseisecurityschool9337]

Both are rated for far more pressure than you're likely to get in your water supply. Like the difference between using a 1/2" bolt vs a 3/8" bolt for hanging a picture. 😂

[@covetthecamper2289]

Great video, Thanks! I am an RV technician and have done both A & B. I prefer PEX A as well. Really great stuff.

[@mlgoldberg]

I re-piped my attic with type b pex. I was able to get a cinch crimper off eBay for less than $20. Rings and fittings were available at the local big box store cheap. It has worked well for me for the last 10+ years, no problems for a one time job. I am in South Texas, so the cold was not an issue. $250+ for tools for one job is excessive in my view. For a pro who will use the tool for years, the cost of the tools is secondary to best productivity. They both seem to be good systems.

[@dknowles60]

could have had the tools for 80 dollars

[@terryherrera5252]

Pex A ALL the WAY !! My Milwaukee expander tool cost almost $500.00 !! GREAT Video!!

[@willplumb]

Thanks for watching!

[@jamesanderson6812]

Very informative . I’m a diy guy and I always think I’m saving the cost of labor so I want to use the best materials. Type a is THE way to go . Cheap insurance as well as depending on your installation could save you so much frustration and anger ! Thanks for the info !

[@tlook6900]

Thanks! We’re ‘pex-folks’ and are exploring transitioning to be more a than b- your video is great- we’re not as cold as you are-(UT) and have been to worry about the temperature issues. We already have the expansion tool 😊 Now we’re finding the fittings at supply houses are not comparable ($) to your chart. We’re convinced but need cost effective supply. (We’re a husband/wife team w/40+ years experience) Thanks for your comparison! You’re fun and informative 😊

[@oldschoolcars3318]

I adopted Wirsbo 25 years ago for floor heating and found it quite expensive yet effective and durable. In honesty I dont think you are giving Zurn a fully fair shake as far as flow. With direct runs from a manifold with a 3/4" inlet, I have ZERO problems plumbing 1/2' home runs from each fixture to the manifold. Short of some sort of massive 5GPM use, Zurn home runs do fine. the only branches I really use in a system are a toilet from a bath sink, and a dishwasher from a kitchen sink. Where DIYers and some plumbers run into flow problems with Zurn fittings, is when they branch multiple fixtures from the same line or trunk. By using home runs to a manifold you use more tubing with Zurn which is OK because it is cheaper per foot. At the same time, with home runs of modest length to a well fed manifold you save on fittings. In my view, there are only two drawbacks in using the Zurn System: the close quarters problem you mentioned with the tool, and inconsistency in Zurn Pex ring quality.

[@Handyman247llc]

When I started doing Handyman type work I used PEX B, easier to work with than copper but the crimp tool ended the enjoyment. I listened to Roger W. and spoke about PEX A. told how much better it was and all about the pro/cons. Hmmm I had to learn more so I dove in, bought the Milwaukee tool and never looked back. PEX A is my pain repair pipe of choice Easy to configure around obstacles, never a mis fit that leaks, neat clean look. Happy customers.

[@w.miller7282]

I prefer type b crimp fittings, I trust a mechanical crimp more than the memory contraction on type a. My new house was built with type a so we will see how long it lasts.

[@jerryswinehart4467]

as a DIY and just starting to make repairs on my installed pex system, I found this video informative. The plumber for my spec house must have been a DIY himself because as my research continues my home has lots of problems. Type B pex was used: crimps not square or set 1/8 from end. Red used for cold , blue for hot. compression shut off valves at fixtures installed on the pex piping. loss of pressure after faucets are running after a few seconds.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

What state ? Holy smokes, I see this all the time in my neighborhood, but not as bad as that. Pex is heaven for stupid, illiterate plumbers who work under someone else’s license on spec homes.

[@Odin029]

Compression fittings are fine for pex b in most cases as long as they're installed correctly.

[@badwagon7799]

Pex A is also known for leaching more chemicals especially when exposed to chlorine which is in all city water. Chlorine also makes type A brittle over time so unless you spend even more for a very efficient water purifying system, all those tight connections won't matter. Pex A also has a bad rap for a stronger plastic taste. Overall the type b with the crimp fittings still out performs copper and will be more than most households will ever need. Choose the correct size and flow rates and pressure are not a problem. I went with B and have been very happy.

[@garycasper2929]

I was just going to type that too. If one likes cancer then go with Pex-A.. Sure it’s easier to work with but, sure wouldn’t want to be drinking from those pipes. Also, never leave PEX pipe exposed to sun light and never let it be exposed to fluorescent light. So, make sure it’s wrapped in foam insulation if it’s in a basement setting that’s exposed to that kind of lighting.

[@motube2389]

You pretty much destroyed the guy and I kind of feel bad for him

[@LHLWASRIGHT]

Hey, I have Qest. Installed in the 1980s, there have been no leaks, bursts, whatsoever. As a retired electrician, I remember plumbers giving the warning they were about to test pressure. Sure, there were failures, but that was due to the fact it was new and plumbers were learning how to properly crimp. My failures in my home, after 32 years, have been limited to the little rubber washer in the angle valves aging.

[@matthewk6731]

Sizing is definitely an issue. We see new homes with 3/4 main runs, which may have worked with copper, but PEX is smaller on the inside diameter. The type A with full flow fittings May be OK, but the type B should Always be run with 1 inch main runs. People complain when the house is busy and doing the dishes, washing machine, and taking a shower, the pressure goes down. I've seen million dollar homes with this problem due to idiot "plumbers", and inspectors letting them install it this way.

[@gamking7987]

Man!! a real video for real DIYs and even experts, thank you so much!!

[@mikeybmx5330]

It's worth mentioning the growth in length in hot water runs. Support the pipe every chance you can.

[@businessraptor134]

Good point I've not seen anyone say anything about expansion and contraction so I was just going to leave a bit of slack in th lines to compensate. Thanks for the tip

[@macleanclassics]

Type A is for the guys dealing with it daily.... For the rest of us, with type B just run manifolds with home runs for each fixture.... i also don't use fittings other than the valve at the end. No pressure loss and no sudden drops.

[@liers99]

Pex A is all I’ve used and that’s what my house is plumbed with.

[@Aepek]

The NICE thing about ZURN PEX-B is that IT IS EXPANDABLE by using the Milwaukee ProPEX Expansion Tool and use the PEX-A Fittings. Zurn is only company I know that has Expansion PEX-B and fittings LIKE UPONOR PEX-A. Pretty cool, imo and makes a big difference in certain applications along w/ hot water and not worrying about reduction in flow from fittings. One negative (far as know) can’t use the heat gun to “repair” a bent Zurn Pex-B like can on the Uponor Pex-A (far as know, could be wrong here). Thx for vid, cool👍🏻

[@thelastjohnwayne]

Excellent. Very well done......After watching this I thought You guys are great at making instructional videos. Great Job.

[@seymourscagnetti1413]

I have lived full time in travel trailer RVs for decades, and have upgraded all fittings to "Flair-it" brand fittings with zero issues (I live in Tehachapi, Ca. temps drop to the mid-teens +15F). My current unit: "2014 Keystone RV Sprinter 299RET" In this unit I replaced all "Otiker" band clamp fittings to "Flair-it". Their are no special tools required. Tip: to save money, buy fittings in bags of 10. If I owned/lived in a stick built house, I would install the Flair-it fittings for piece of mind (save the home from costly water damage).

[@wurlabyscott]

Matt Risinger tested PEX A and B and A burst first and what kind of leaching between A and B?

[@tomjackson8895]

Great video and information. So many other videos are not clear on tools, PEX A and B and the pro's and con's. Finally good usable information.

[@rossfudd256]

Types of PEX tubing (A, B, C). Choosing the right type and brand for your project. -What are the differences between common PEX brands? -Is one brand better than the other? -Which type of PEX should I use for my project? Classification of PEX by manufacturing process Regardless of brand, there are only (3) main manufacturing processes used to produce PEX tubing: -Peroxide method (used to make PEX-A tubing) -Silane method (for PEX-B tubing) -Irradiation method (for PEX-C) Contrary to the popular belief, A, B and C are not grades of PEX. These letters are used merely to identify the manufacturing process and have nothing to do with quality or performance ratings of the end product except as explained further in text. In fact, all of the above have to adhere to the same standard: -Pressure and temperature ratings -Minimum bending radius -Pipe wall thickness and ID/OD dimensions (subject to manufacturing tolerances)

[@paulwarila1502]

Very clear, cogent, and quick. Excellent job. Thank you for posting.

[@jwblount7802]

If the house is plumbed accordingly with crimp fittings to what the code states. Like 3/4 piping to number of fixture ratio the water pressure is not reduced. If the pressure is less than the plumber/dyi er did not follow the pipe to fixture ratio. Increasing pipe size will not make a difference. Most of the restrictions comes from all of the water savers that are within the fixture. Show a house that is plumbed according both way's and show me that one is better than the other using the correct sizing to fixture ratio.

[@plumbbuild6517]

It's really just a selling point, because the supply lines are smaller than the reduction of the fittings. So you are correct

[@MattyDemello]

My house has half inch copper pipes. I'm in the middle of changing it all to 3/4" all the way up until the fixtures. Will upgrading the size to 3/4 give better flow?? I hope so. All though it goes back down to half inch for each fixture

[@plumbbuild6517]

@@MattyDemello you should be able to get around 12 to 15 GPM out of 1/2 inch copper pipe, and around 22 to 25 GPM out of 3/4 copper pipe ,alittle less out of PEX , but your faucets or shower can't handle that much water flow.

[@jwblount7802]

@@MattyDemello According to code the most you can run is up to 4 fixtures per 3/4 inch line. So if you run a 3/4" line across the house you can branch off to every bath or kitchen or whatever with 1/2 as long as it does not exceed the fixture load per 3/4 " line, if the fixture load exceeds that then you would run 3/4" to the first drop or branch of the bath or whatever you going to then down 1/2". I plumb this with pex, cpvc, and even copper when it was cheaper back then and it all has the same pressure and or volume for each product. Like I mentioned before if you follow the 3/4" per fixture load no problem.

[@plumbbuild6517]

@@jwblount7802 it depends on how long of run you have by code 1/2 inch line 40 ft or less can carry 4 fixtures I wouldn't recommend it , but a 3/4 line can carry 12 fixtures up to 100 ft by code. Some inspectors will let you get away with more.

[@larrylancaster9131]

Much appreciated! The upsizing pex b was something that never would have occured to me! Thanks!!!

[@mrmike6996]

I believe that Zurn also makes expansion fittings for pex-b pipe so that can be done the exact same as pex-a. I also believe that per-b as a higher burst pressure

[@terrystearns1196]

Look it up it does not have a greater burst pressure...

[@jessem8928]

Great video, Pex B is pretty much all that is available at Home Depot and other hardware stores.

[@ElRecopilador-wz9dn]

and it´s really good

[@nosonfontenot3072]

Just learning about PEX. Thank you and great vid!

[@justingreen4450]

The old house I bought is solid and has type A PEX. The line to the shower, and bathroom sink freezes because it is ran through a short section of exterior wall. I'm going to run it under the house. Thanks so much for the video. Good job.

[@Youtubehandle.]

When you said at the end of the video, size your system correctly, were you saying run three-quarter inch pipe off of half-inch copper so you have enough water flow? That is when using packs be

[@thepracticalaudiophile]

That's exactly what he means

[@seanmccoy8423]

I just watched another KZbinr, who tested the psi between A and B. B actually had a higher psi before failure. Type B failed at over 1100 psi and Type A failed at about 900 psi. It was also noted that they both failed in the pipe itself, not at any of the connections.

[@stevelund9149]

Good to know but most houses never exceed pressure design max of 90psi

[@tedfritsch3340]

Great info. The Pex A isn't that much more expensive.

[@STARDRIVE]

Especially when considering the necessary upsizing to get the same flow rate.

[@BKD70]

@@STARDRIVE And the more expensive fittings for Pex B. Pex A all the way. And don't waste your money on the battery powered expansion tools, the manual tool works just fine at 1/3 the cost. Especially for a homeowner repiping his own house.

[@Greg_Chase]

The crimp-ring (pex type B) is physically/mechanically more reliable, all things being equal (ie, if the temps are 70 degrees Fahrenheit during installation of type A, or if the metal crimp ring for type B is installed correctly). If there is a pressure surge condition in the line, I would sleep better knowing that a metal ring was crimped down, providing better resistance to a pressure surge. What do I mean? It comes down to this: 1) the fact that you can 'flex-open' the type A pipe with the expanding pressure of the tool means another expanding pressure (surge) could also expand the pipe. The pipe wall is elastic. 2) the crimping does not involve expanding the pipe - just the opposite. The type B crimp ring is a mechanical "strangling" applied to the Pex B. The metal crimp ring is not elastic. This is an excellent video for a beginner like me - thank you. I have experience with piping but not Pex. Expanding to insert the fitting sounds similar to expanding in response to a pressure surge (water hammer?) and the thought of 100+ connections like that in my walls scares the stuffing out of me. I will trade off a slight flow restriction for knowing that behind all the walls in my re-piped house, the fittings inserted in the Pex B are being mechanically strangled and will not come free even under a pressure surge. The metal crimp rings are MUCH less elastic than the Pex type A pipe. EDIT: I live in a tropical-climate state. During the winter - February - the average temp in in the 70s Fahrenheit. So the freeze-expand issue is not a factor in my choice. I'm watching this video so I can replace the water shut-off valves on my plastic pipe - I have a couple leaks, and after watching your video, it's pretty clear that Pex type B is the situation I have. But I don't think I'd ever do a re-pipe in one of my rentals with Pex type A. I like the strength of the metal crimp ring putting a mechanical 'strangle' to keep the fittings from coming free. .

[@ReusernameTaken]

Quality post! Nice timing, too - the final hours are ticking down right along with our overnight lows until I go ahead and settle on how to approach slapping together a bunch of spot splicing on polybutelene in a 1980s manufactured home. Don't even get me started about the drainage end of things! This video is tidy and informative.

[@willplumb]

Steven Thompson Thanks, Steven. Glad you saw this at the right time!

[@timjohnson6864]

dont splice it just replace it if its already splitting open it will continue

[@scottyb83]

Thank you. I have Type A PEX and need to do a modification. Only bad thing with Type A as a diy'er is the more specialized tools needed.

[@tjcole12]

PEX-A, if its cold, we just put our hands over it to make it shrink faster.

[@paulsantos5625]

Thank you, this was a great video professionally made, and it gave me a lot to think about, I am building a pretty sizable workshop 60 x 40 with three separate rooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen in one of the rooms, and I am considering using pex and I was on the fence about which one to use, you have clearly made pex a winner thank you

[@JH-tc3yu]

The thing I have never understood about these types of videos is talking about the size restriction for Pex type B fittings. Why are you using fittings? The whole point of PEX is that you slap a 90 degree bender on the pex and create a smooth radius turn with 0 fittings.

[@DSkimRS]

thats not the "whole point of PEX" 🤡

[@djaa7]

So you never use elbows, tees, couplings, valves, and anything else? You simply have pipes connected to nothing, going nowhere? "Tell me you are not a plumber and have no clue, without telling me you are not..."

[@bentleyjim1]

this video was awesome, It helped me make the decisions to move my project forward. Additionally, Labor is ALWAYS the biggest cost; the relatively small saving for smaller or cheaper systems is never the right answer.

[@JeremyY]

Nicely edited vid with crystal clear information. You know your stuff. Thank you for putting this together!

[@willplumb]

Glad this helped. Thanks for watching!

[@kevintackett7564]

Love that video... Wish our political leaders were as congenial and fair as your presentation!!

[@willplumb]

HA! Thank you!

[@curtisbme]

Good summary. My house was done with Rehau 20 years ago when they were doing the 2080 connectors vs. their current mix between a 2080 and a Uponor connector. Never had any issues with water hammer like copper folks can and the only problem we've had with freezing is because the building used copper for the final bib stub out. The single thing I hate about it is that for the rare/extremely infrequent small job, I can't do it myself and I have to pay a plumber a ton just to come out for a 10 min job because the tools are even more expensive. I'll be using crimps and lengths of pex a for an upcoming bit of bathroom work simply because I don't have another reasonable option for small, quick jobs. If the box box (or anyone) would rent the tools it would be great, as the tools they rent now are perfect for the one-off job that doesn't make sense to buy a tool for, but sadly non that I can find in my area do.

[@alexanderSydneyOz]

I would have thought the money you save on a single plumber visit would pay for the tools you need! Which is really just the crimp tool and pipe shears.

[@curtisbme]

@@alexanderSydneyOz Issue I was trying to state is that if wanted to use Pex A and Rehau or Uphonor I have to pay for a plumber. I can't get those tools or parts without paying potentially thousands, which makes a one-off plumber visit cheaper. So I was forced to switch to Pex B and crimp connections as those parts and tools are muuuuch cheaper than a plumber visit.

[@DonTruman]

Appreciate the video. Type-A does sound like the winner for this homeowner, especially since I live in a location with freezing, but it's not sold at the local hardware store (medium-small town) and it's over an hour and half drive to a Home Depot that does. And the $250 tool is hard to swallow for something that wouldn't be used very often. But I'll probably still go with "A". Maybe I can do some small jobs for neighbors to recoup the cost of the tool :)

[@stevem1081]

Many tests have shown Pex A&B do the same in freezing. The main thing to be concerned about is the fittings. If you have pipes in the attic, make sure you don't have fittings in the attic. Also, you can use the much cheaper Pex B crimps and fittings on Pex A. For those more concerned with health, Pex B leaches fewer chemicals than Pex A into your water!

[@kevinpoore5626]

Well I install PEX B from Home Depot but she is a SharkBite product but the biggest reason why I install it it's because there's no cash value other than in the brass fittings it's theft proof pretty much

[@robertcompton6281]

and the new plastic fitting work well on all of my rental installs

[@djaa7]

My truck was broken into and 3 rolls of pex taken. Can you please call the bad guys and give them the memo. They didn't get it

[@Thebearcave1776]

Cool vid brother. Going to use PEX for the first time for the indoor 'stuff' for an auto-irrigation that uses the rain barrel IBC water first, or it will open a ball valve to use fill the barrels if no rain water. The the float switch allows the 12v (solar) pump to run when water is avail. I always thought "PEX is PEX" . You certainly schooled this engineer. Pipe size matters! You know you wanted to say it.

[@justinhildebrand1543]

Great video, very informative, thanks for putting in the effort!

[@willplumb]

Thanks for watching!

[@agpawpaw5912]

I changed my old copper for pex B. Left same size, half inch, as original copper. Never have problem with pressure, but I have water well, so my water pressure is always normal.

[@ScottAllengadget]

Great explanation! Thank you!!👍

[@willplumb]

Gadget Allen Glad to help. Thanks for watching!

[@claycook2723]

Very good and informative video. I am a retired plumber and this is all new to me thx

[@davidswanson5669]

I wish the 90 degree had a more gradual bend, because I’m sure that also contributes to the loss in pressure, or flow rate.

[@user-gk3lu1gg9t]

Use a street elbow or two 45's

[@BobC777]

In addition to solid information I liked the small indicators on the red KZbin progress line where you change to a different aspect (cost, joining, etc.). I'd never seen that before.

[@fireal99]

Been plumbing for 20 years never NEVER NOT A SINGLE DAMN TIME has poor water pressure been caused by PEX B or any other pipe. Its caused by by sediment, mineral or some type of blosckage build up in the faucet, cartidge, brass body or aerator or somehwhere else component. I couldnt imagine telling a customer : hey your screwed gotta change all that perfectly good pipe out. Not to mention all faucets and water supplies have govermment mandated flow restrictors. All faucets have 1/4" channels in the brass body... trust me pex b isnt slowing down pressure. You could run 2" copper to a faucet or shower, doesnt make a damm difference . When is this bs gonna end. Pex a looks like saggy shit 99% of the time i see it. Using it on a well? Chlorine? Forget it.

[@Wanderer_52]

Could not have said it better myself.....you are exactly correct

[@Theredeemedchild2]

Absolutely not true, not 1%. I did service work for years and moved to a water company that serves over 80k houses. I get 2-3 calls a month on new houses with low pressure. I show them the pressure and I meter it to get my gpm. I'm typically between 50-100 psi and 26-34gpm with a 5/8 meter and 3/4 service line. Then I go to their spigot and show them the pressure is the same but their spigot is only putting out 2-3gpm. Then I go inside and verify they have PEX B. Then I bring them back outside and show them the difference between 3/4 copper, PEX a, and PEX B. Needless to say I don't get anymore "low water pressure calls" and the builder / plumber gets an absolute ear full from a pissed customer. Notice these are new houses, new subdivisions, there is no sediment especially since it is filtered from the plant. The issue are plumber running 1/2 PEX B where 3/4 PEX b should be. Tell you what, go grab 1/2 copper and a 3/4 PEX b fitting and you'll find they're basically the same size. So everyone who has 3/4 PEX b ran as the main in the house may as well have had 1/2 copper ran as the main. Plus PEX b has way more turbulence than copper. Unless you aren't scraping the inside of the pipe after cutting it, which any plumber worth anything would do..

[@aaronalmanza318]

@@Theredeemedchild2so your telling me if the meter is running a 3/4 line the the house,I have to upsize the pex one size,which means instead of 3/4 pex I have to run 1” pex on a 3/4 copper main line ?

[@Theredeemedchild2]

@@aaronalmanza318 yep. Go to Lowe's or home Depot and compare the fittings size of PEX b to copper pipe and you will see.

[@NoName-lu1tt]

​​@@aaronalmanza318 what if you are using PEX B with shark bites connectors? Those connectors go over the pipe I would not think that would cause any flow restriction. Tools are probably $30 worth also. Downside is connectors are much more expensive but I personally think they are l well worth it for the ease of use.

[@gerardnachtegaele1173]

An excellent, informative video! Thanks! I now recommend Type A Plex!

[@willplumb]

What's your preference? PEX A or PEX B?

[@dallasmavs1924]

How do u know what type of pex do u have

[@aaronblake1891]

Your expander head wasn’t spinning

[@EslamG84]

Copper!

[@frankgorgone6679]

I prefer pex a but no one around here carry’s it. I have to order it in large quantities so I can use it on my jobs

[@Appytail]

Time to erase that video and start from scratch. What makes a PEX expandable is ASTM F1960. AND NOT "A" or "B". There are PEX B available that are F1960. So most of your video is oudated and should be replaced. Because you pros and cons are almost all false.

[@readmore3634]

I looked at a house being built (framing stage) about 1/4 mile from ocean. I was bidding on plumbing a mansion about 2 lots away and wanted to see what locals were using. (Laguna Beach, Ca.) Any and all metals exposed to the air, including the crimp rings were beginning to show rust. Yikes! I like Uponor plastic expansion ring systems. All plastic, keep it away from radiant heat and sunlight. I've installed 100's of miles of this. I have a pool house out back of my house and in 2018 I purposely ran about 10 feet of hot & cold Uponor Pex that gets about 5-6 hours of direct SoCalif sunlight a day. About 2 weeks ago I checked on it by pushing it around, hitting it with a grade stake & such...seems fine. Eventually I'll replace it with copper, just wanted to experiment cuz I can. Thanks!

[@jesseweaver8899]

The zurn pex I've seen lately is actually rated for 1960 (expansion) fittings. As is Sioux chief Power pex .. both of these are not pex a .. just sayin

[@alfredoaguiar9691]

Thanks for explaining both methods. But sorry to tell you that the fittings will never play any pressure reduction and flow reduction. it will be unnoticeable excepts if you are talking about a line really long with dozens of fittings in a single branch, where a smart plumber would use a wider pipe and I doubt changing from A to B - B to A, will solve the problem. Need to be the whole system mess up to cause a pressure reduction or low flow. Any way, I didn't know what expansion PEX means for and you explanation was very clear. So, thank you again.

[@PDXBeach]

It's my understanding that there are expansion fittings for Type B Zurn and also tool heads for the Mliwaukee expansion tool. I also heard on another video here that if you are doing recirculating systems (especially hot water) you will want type B as type A pex will erode from the inside because of the chemicals inside water. Not sure how big a deal that is, but hey, here's the video kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnusXnhsrpd3q7c

[@bertveldhuizen8699]

For recirculating systems like hydronic heat you use the Orange PEX.

[@notcharles]

The Milwaukee Battery Powered tool was selling for $499 today, the DeWalt around $419. This guy's a Type A aficionado - and I like it, too. But it is more expensive - significantly so.

[@billb6121]

Different world in older RV's. I see Pex-a with metal ring clamps. The lead into your video showed that. Didn't see it, need help finding stuff for RV repairs. Other than that, Good video. We did a Pex-b install on my son's home with homeruns to a manifold. That works well for pressure problems.

[@erich9925]

pipe b will be more available to you the homeowner.

[@lehmaj]

This is definitely true. I recently started a remodel in my basement bathroom and the old coper was a mess so ripped it out and bought the Milwaukee expansion tool after doing my research a few months back. Then come to find my home depot in my area doesn't carry Pex A. Luckily for me we have a plumbing supply store and they carried everything I needed for Pex A

[@christophertflournoy7830]

I’m about to plumb my house with pex- A thanks for the advice very informative thanks for the video

[@erich9925]

your fixtures reduce to3/8 anyway

[@jaceandjace1171]

Right ? 😂

[@dtrcha9945]

here in Montreal (QC) the QC govt has restricted PEX - A to plumbers. In short, you can't buy Pex-A in a store. What we do is drive to the US and buy all Pex-A equipment there ... avoiding the need to work thru an expensive QC plumbing company. DIY is always 100% better and cheaper than an indifferent company.

[@SeXyCaSpEr420]

I think its worth mentioning that type A fittings can still spun or rotated after installed

[@tomfrantz]

Brilliant point about "Flow". I use uponor A for a geothermal sometimes. Using expandapex fittings.for better flow.

[@kileonamanzano7024]

When we started this hospital we're working on in Washington, and it was snowing through the building cause it wasn't dry yet, I used a torch gun from from a bit away on the 3 and 2½ pex. Dang that Milwaukee tool is heavy, and SO slow

[@rontiemens2553]

Excellent, excellent, EXCELLENT. I came here with a bias toward PEX type B, but now I think you have made a compelling case for type A, and I will seriously look into that further. Subscribed! THANK YOU!!!

[@willplumb]

So glad you found this helpful! And thanks for subscribing - we’ve got more videos coming soon.

[@cranbers]

I made the mistake of getting type B with the rings you crimp on the side (clamp/cinch method), and got a cheap tool to do the clamping. You have to be a certified strong man in competition to get that thing to close all the way. I am a man who works out with heavy weights and I could barely do it. But it is nice how easy it is to put everything together for something like a whole home water filter install. I was sore for days after, hand, and I had to get leverage by pushhing it on something like a stud or my chest or shoulder. Something they don't warn you about but it was a lot cheaper haha.

[@boashna]

BRAVO - I have Q? A-do supply companies sell to individuals - b- Type A has white red blue when do you use white

[@jerrysmith9780]

Thought I knew a fair bit on Pex but I learned a ton from this video. Great comparison and you sold me on Pex A. I also subscribed just now. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your professional views.

[@willplumb]

Thanks, Jerry. Glad you found this helpful!

[@fahmywaleed]

Excellent video easy to follow and straight to the point without too much fluff

[@samuelunderwood7866]

I got $30 crimper off Amazon and it works great so the ratio it's a whole lot higher for a homeowner to use Pex a

[@johnmilton2077]

yeah I see crimpers a lot cheaper ($30-50) than the $150 he mentions in this video

[@mothman-jz8ug]

The problem I see most with sizing is pipe of "x" diameter until just short of the fixture, then dropping to a supply line with the inside diameter of a soda straw AND the so-called "water saver" faucets that severely restrict flow. Somehow, taking 3 times as long to fill a cooking pot saves water. Never quite figured that out...

[@wallacegrommet9343]

There shouldn’t be a flow restriction device on kitchen faucets, just bathroom fixtures. Plenty of videos on how to remove flow restrictors from fixtures. I’ve had mixed results removing them. Didn’t always make a big difference.....

[@benji888578]

The main advantage of PEX A’s higher flexibility, not stated here (unless I missed it), since it flexes more you will need less fittings! This means less chances for leaks, less fittings you need to buy, and easier to work with. You can get a manual tool by itself and just one size tip for under $100 at HD now...still not cheap, but easier to manage than $300+. It’s the tools that make it expensive for DIY projects. If you only have one project it seems like you’re having to pay a lot of $ for all the tools you need. I guess you’ll have them for future use, but that’s not likely something that’ll happen often, like using a drill/driver.

[@benji888578]

I guess I’m wondering if someone could invent an attachment that would work with a drill/driver.

[@mainelyelectric]

I like using those 90° bend radius holders that they sell that snap onto pex then you don’t need a 90° fitting.

[@leefinefurniture494]

There’s another comment that said this too, but the premise of A vs. B is not fully correct. Expansion is about ASTM F1960, and true that some PEX-B do not have F1960 expansion. But Zurn PEX-B does that uses F1960 expansion tools. So you can benefit of PEX-B (with ASTM F876 testing specs at or above PEX-A standards) and use expansion tools without breakdown of PEX-A drawbacks. Seems superior to me to go with Zurn PEX-B. I think it mostly just about the premise of the vide making it A vs. B though. Y’all should do an updated video.

[@breedlofam]

You can get past the flow restrictions of Pex B by going a size up. So if you'd use 1/2 for A, use 3/4 for B.

[@bigern6992]

Watch this video with closed captions on for an educational and interesting time. Thank you for the video.