Willys F Head Engine Rebuild Crank, Head, Valves

[@michaelcoleman7940]

Watching that head rebuild. Good stuff. Me and JC Whitney rebuilt a 52 CJ3B in the 70’s in Okinawa. 45 years later, doing it all again.

[@TheOldaz1]

Very informative and well described. Great info for newbies and a good refresher for us old people. Thanks for sharing.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad it was helpful!

[@bearsrodshop7067]

Out standing advise on head installation with block on it's side. I too have taught my sons this, and hopefully te will pass on to their children, thx again for sharing, Bear.

[@gazza116]

synchro seating in my day,no lapping at all,lapping creates a spot for a valve to burn.

[@autophyte]

It's a good idea, if the rear seal part of the crank is pitted, to get the machine shop to grind it down til it's perfectly smooth. The finished diameter is not critical if you're using the rope seal. If left rough, it will wear the rope seal and it will leak). However, some crank grinders don't have a wheel thin enough to do that surface, but it's worthwhile to find one who does, if that part is rusty and/or pitted.

[@wowiezowiepowie]

in the early 70's i had a willly's '49 overland station wagon 2wd ..it had been worked on by lots of people. it would pop a valve seat and then bend the valve as it came down on the seat that was no longer in place.. some shade tree mechanic had used a center punch to "lock" in a seat by wacking the head all around the edge of the seat ... nice to see a pro at work

[@oldtimesmatthew]

It's good to see someone turning cranks and reusing them rather than spend more on new stuff. Those cranks are so thick turning .030 is fine. You've got lots of life in that unit now! Good advice on the valves as well. I work on old Ford Model T flathead engines for fun and enjoy seeing people do old style work to recondition their engines.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Great to have you watching. Nice to have folks who understand engines here instead of the usual youtube trolls.

[@budbennett9457]

That is a great tip on assembling the engine on its side. Thanks for that.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Been assembling heads to engines on the side for years, never any junk falling into the cylinders.

[@danbreyfogle8486]

As I have said before, I am not a mechanic (other than by necessity) and I found the suggested to install the head sideways to be extremely valuable. I had never considered the amount of rust and grit that could be in the water jacket and with your illustration of that this makes a great deal of sense. Now if you just had a simple solution for a 5 HP snow blower engine that threw a rod through the side of the crank case this afternoon. DAMN, that surprised me when it happened. I did have a simple solution, go buy a new snow blower as this one was 13 years old and been very heavily used.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Sorry to hear about your snowblower, but a new one after 13 years isn't too bad.

[@453421abcdefg12345]

The dykem is a good idea, I usually use a smoky candle and soot the valve, that is an instant usable marker, and using a pistol drill to grind valves! I have seen "experts" try that, resulting in radial tramlines on seat/valve, I clamp the valve in a spare Jacobs chuck from the collet end and reciprocate from that side, I find that gives much more control when you lift the valve off the seat while turning back and forth, you then have full control of the valve, I also give a squirt of WD40 so that the grinding past flows evenly over the seat surface, I have even seen the pistol drill "experts" drop the valves back into a different seat !

[@metalshaperJeep]

Lots of experts out there doing the wrong thing, I have seen way too many guys mess up new valves for customers. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment, always good to hear from you. Brian

[@kbtreefrog5653]

Brian, I finally figured out how to comment and/or ask a question! Thanks for all the videos! You have been a great help with my '57 cj-5. KB

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad my videos have been helpful with your jeep project.

[@gregoutdoorsman4598]

Super excited watching this engine come together! Thanks for the great videos!

[@robertmanzo5122]

Hi Brian, love your videos and appreciate your wealth of knowledge. I’m rebuilding an F- head and I thought I remember you mentioning that studs can be used for the F- head. Coincidentally, I picked up an F-head that had head studs but I need longer ones to use with the engine lifting bar and the oil filter canister mounting bracket. Do you know where I can source them? I’ve looked everywhere without success. Thanks for all you do to enlighten those of us who love working on these old Jeeps 🙏🏻

[@gasser2348]

Many thanks for the training.

[@charlessmyth]

A lot of excellent tips in this video :-)

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad it was helpful!

[@rowycoracing]

Nice! Thanks for posting.

[@jeepman1467]

When you installed the valve seal you put it on after the spring and spring keeper and under the valve locks. Other videos show they put it around the valve stem before the spring and spring keeper, they just slide it down the valve stem first. The manual is kinda vague about it, which way is best? Thanks

[@metalshaperJeep]

Install them the way I showed in the video. If the seal is just riding up and down the valve stem it isn't doing anything.

[@soulgravygarage8409]

As always, very informative! thx

[@tpendletonYT]

Brian, thanks for another informative video. Do you test the springs to evaluate whether they all require the same pressure at the maximum cam lobe lift?

[@metalshaperJeep]

Springs are tested but off camera. That is a topic for another video.

[@wlogue]

Cool man, I've done that many times with prussian blue. You have to be careful of its thickness. Never seen yellow dykem before. I have an unrelated question for you Brian, do you know of any way to adapt a truck 4 speed to an L head willys? I'm re building my 46 2a as pretty stock, but some granny gear would be nice. I have a 465 and a 420 gm trans. Not a lot of info on the net. Sorry for the long comment, thanks. Will

[@notajp]

I’m thinking Novak used to make an adapter for that, but I’m not sure. Been a lot of years ago....... Never seen yellow Dykem either. Blue and red, yes. Usually use blue myself.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Novak can help with the adapter or maybe Advance adapters is still making the setup. the kit for the transmission to transfer case is still available as well. I use the Yellow dykem so I can see the contrast between the dykem and the steel. I have also seen too many guys misuse the machinist blue and load it on like thick grease to make a test. That is the point I was trying to make.

[@ethanbontrager7994]

Herm the overdrive guy has a granny tranny kit for the 4 cylinders. He's always friendly. Just give him a call.

[@wlogue]

Thanks, I'll let you guys know how it goes, Will

[@landon4278]

Do you know the difference between the HI-Compression head and the regular f134 head? Did Willys just shave the head to get a 7.4 to 1 compression ratio? Or is the pattern on the bottom of the head different?

[@metalshaperJeep]

High compression heads were just milled a bit more than the standard heads.

[@jackcollins2344]

Brian great information as always. I might be jumping the gun asking this question so please forgive me. At what point in the rebuilding process do you paint the head and block of the engine? After it is completely put together? Just wondering what your thoughts are on that subject.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Everything is painted at once when assembled. I have the head in a bag right now and it is oil covered to keep machined surfaces from rusting. other parts are being cleaned and stored away waiting to be assembled. Once everything is together I will clean and paint it. I will show the process when the time comes. Brian

[@richardbarella3798]

@@metalshaperJeep Thanks - I was wondering the same thing.

[@richardbarella3798]

Do you recommend any kits for getting all of the gaskets and seals for the 134 F Head?

[@metalshaperJeep]

I have good quality gasket and seal kits available.

[@pietervanderwalt2388]

Good day, thanks again for a good informative video. I need to replace one of the intake valve stem seals on my F head. I noticed when I removed the tappet cover that the oil was sitting on three of the valve spring covers. On one of them the oil was seeping into the gaps between the valve colets. I presume that the seal is leaking on that cylinder. My question is , is the only way to replace the seal by taking off the head? I have heard that some guys pressurise the cylinder via a air connection on the sparkplug hole and then they push down on the valve spring, remove the colets and change out the seal? Apparantly the air pressure is enough to keep the valve closed so you can do the change out? I have not seen this done, perhaps you can assist. Regards Pieter

[@metalshaperJeep]

If one seal is bad the others are probably not far behind. Best to change all of them at the same time. The head is not hard to remove and best to take it off and check the condition of the valve seats and valves. Replace all the valve stem seals so that you won't have to go in there again soon. Brian

[@pietervanderwalt2388]

@@metalshaperJeep Thank you Brian, I will rather take the head off then and replace all the seals. Thank you for the response.

[@luismercado7563]

How much you sell the flat head

[@williampugh6699]

I didn’t see any lube on the valve stems.

[@edstransitscott9186]

Good information

[@007camera]

Focus focus