Willys Jeep CJ3B Complete Custom Brake System!

Willys Jeep CJ3B complete custom brake system is finally done! This is a detailed video on all the components needed to upgrade your Willys Jeep to a more modern braking system.
Master Cylinder: Raybestos MC36456
Proportioning Valve: PV2
Master Cylinder Bracket: 1966-1971 Jeep CJ5 Buick V6 CJ5
Calipers, Rotors: 1989-1995 Geo Tracker
Soft Front Brake Lines: 1985 Honda Accord

[@melvis2017]

Great video appreciations for the good explanations learn allot from ur Chanel keep going thanks for sharing with us this and hello from jeep anthouthiast🤣👍🇩🇰🙏

[@SevenBarSalvage]

I really appreciate it!

[@Shatterglass452]

Awesome video! I've been having a hard time finding videos like these when looking for help on my cj3a. You're awesome!

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Thank you I appreciate the feedback! Glad I could help!

[@jeepdoctv]

Wow! Super nice video on the brake upgrade!!

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Thank you!

[@kentsmith5672]

Nice work! I'm an old Jeep guy, but I've just kept them running and have not gotten into the "resto" part of it until now. I have a 1960 Willys wagon and a 1963 J-300 Gladiator I'm attempting low budget restorations on. Your videos are great! Very detailed and helpful, with all the options on conversions. I'm deep into replacing the brake system on the Gladiator and now need to decide if it's worth it to try the disc upgrade. Really enjoy your vids. Keep up the good work!

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Some good projects! I’m really glad to hear that! I appreciate it! Thank you for watching!

[@amx19733]

Great video!!!!

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Thank you I appreciate it!

[@triple777pilot]

Great video as usual. I looked under your description section and the adaptor for the Honda brake line to the standard 3/8 X24 original steel brake line is not listed. My 1966 CJ5 has the factory brake hose attachment point on the frame so for now I want to run the Honda brake hose from the Geo caliper to my original steel brake line. Thanks again for your help and all the great videos!

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Thank you! I made a custom hard line with metric on one side and standard on the other, I’m not sure if anyone sells them 😕 If you can’t find them or make them shoot me an email and I can make you a couple!

[@triples4good]

I would probably use rubber grommets where the brake lines run through holes in the frame or brackets. Great job.

[@SevenBarSalvage]

I was thinking the same thing! Thank you!

[@southernjeepand4x481]

Good job

[@ark4547]

really great

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Thank you!

[@davehenson8032]

Thank you for your video- very helpful-hoping you will share your source/spec on converting metric brake hose to us standard- thanks

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Thank you! It’s pretty simple if you have a brake line tool, I made my hard lines with metric on one side and standard fitting on the other! Hope this helps!

[@xfactorautomotive1496]

One more thing...that's why the prop valve has two front ports...one for each wheel.😋

[@sledfool1972]

I watch a lot of videos on jeep and auto in general to see how other are doing it and your style is great! What you do, how the video is put together, breaking down the steps. Did I miss the video of you driving the jeep?

[@SevenBarSalvage]

I really appreciate it! I’ve actually never drove this Jeep but it’s getting close so stay tuned!

[@tonycee]

GREAT VIDEO!! I'm so not mechanically inclined and you made this video very easy to learn. After watching your video I'm confident this system would work on my 1971 International Scout 800b. Could you possibly email me a list of the parts you used or link them here?

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Thank you! The more I work on the scout the more similarities I see between it and Willys Jeeps. I’ll try and get everything in the description!

[@russellmiller2801]

Get those hose bracket @ Harbor Freight.

[@cmac956]

Hi, thought I would tell you about front disc brake conversion parts you can use . the Chevy and GMC trucks and Blazes DANA 44 disc break mounting bracket and caliper well bolt to a Dana 25 with just a little grinding in 2 spots ,for clearinse ,very little has to come off.you also have to change the plug ,to a allen plug, so it wont hit the nuckel . its alot chepper than the kits .you use a 1976 ,CJ Jeep thick rotor.

[@SevenBarSalvage]

I looked into doing the GM version instead of the geo tracker system. This version ended up being around half what the GM version would have been. Yeah the kits are convenient but way over priced compared to this! Thank you for the info!

[@cmac956]

@@SevenBarSalvage I got mine from a junk yard for $75.00 the rotors I bought new , at Auto zone $40.00 each .the kits were $600.00

[@russellmiller2801]

You can't mix them up with different sized nuts. That is not really a proportioning valve. It has a shuttle inside that hit a switch to let you know if one end leaks

[@SevenBarSalvage]

It does have the switch to let you know if you bust a brake line but the PV2 proportioning valve is specifically made for a disk drum setup. You need 2 pounds residual pressure for disk and 10 for drum. This should also keep one from locking up before the other. Thank you for watching!

[@russellmiller2801]

@@SevenBarSalvage We use an F250 Ford master seems to work OK

[@bugnfront]

Also, 1979 cj7 set works. I have only Willys wagon.

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Good to know!

[@1128Triton]

Could you be a little more specific on your master cylinder bracket? I getting parts together and drawing a blank on this one. Thanks, another great video!

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Mine came off a 67 CJ5 from the factory. I believe all the V6 CJ5’s came with this bracket. Herm the overdrive guy sells a similar bracket on his website (he also sells a complete kit). Hope this helps!

[@mikepyatt5424]

Answered my disk brake questions. I did the GM disk conversation on a jeep. To much grinding for clearance. Yours doesn’t require grinding? Did you use a bender or just bend by hand? Great video’s.

[@SevenBarSalvage]

I looked into the GM myself this came out a couple hundred dollars cheaper and no grinding or modifications. Some people have to drill out the rotor holes slightly but I didn’t have to. I used a hand bender for all the brake lines. Thank you for watching!

[@jjtt7408]

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE FITTING ON BEFORE YOU MAKE THE HUMP IN THE LINE

[@SevenBarSalvage]

If I had a dollar for every time I’ve done that 😂

[@taranpreetsingh2348]

It’s seems like you really worry about brakes line getting worn out with vibration by those holes. Cut a any fuel line or any other black hose and cut into 2 inch piece and put them on clamps 🗜 them down. No worries at all.

[@SevenBarSalvage]

That’s a great idea!

[@stevebrown4734]

Can you post the parts list and /or source you used for the bulk brake line and clips? I am working through the self sourced GM disc conversion and will be copying your brake line routing (from the updated video you did later, lol).

[@SevenBarSalvage]

The hard line I bought at Autozone. The hoses are all stock Jeep brake hoses. Thank you for watching! Clamps: Solarson 20 Pack 3/16 Inch... www.amazon.com/dp/B07VV3C82K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[@bigears4426]

Slit some fuel line where the lines go through the chassis and cable tie

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Good idea!

[@WillysRubicon]

Were you able to use original/repro 16in wheels with the disc brake and clear the calipers?

[@SevenBarSalvage]

With the 15” wagon wheels I have right now there’s no issue but I know on stock 15” steel wheels the calipers hit. I believe even with 16” you still need a 1” spacer but I’m not 100% sure. Hope this helps!

[@brentwaters7465]

I was going to use the factory brass tee on my front axle (m38a1) and hard line to each knuckle hose like factory, but the proportioning valve I got in Herm's kit has a driver and passenger outlet for front brakes. I'll have to run one hard line around the crossmember and jump down to passenger side. I looked up this PV2 valve and it also has a left and right front outlet, so how were you able to run one line and tee? does it work fine either way?

[@SevenBarSalvage]

I would recommend running individual lines to the front brakes, but I’ve ran them both ways and not noticed a difference. The driver side is so close to the valve it’s not too bad. I would recommend running the hoses to the frame, I tried it other ways and it wasn’t as clean. Hope this helps!

[@tedmongeon6006]

What did you do about the brake light switch? I found master cylinder bracket off 70 CJ5. What Kaiser Willys did was put in two brake line switches, one in the front brake line and one in the rear brake line.

[@SevenBarSalvage]

I used a T and ran it with the second port on the proportioning valve. That’s interesting I don’t know why you would need 2 unless it’s for a backup if one fails? Thanks!

[@robertgentry9742]

did you also do a rear disc brake conversion and will the geo tracker parts work on the rear

[@SevenBarSalvage]

It’s all the same parts, here in a few weeks I’ll be posting a video doing a 4 wheel disk brake conversion!

[@mr.espeedshop4839]

I've looked through the comments and didn't find the parts list. Is it standard Geo tracker calipers and rotors? What year? What did you use for caliper brackets? Are you keeping the rear drum?

[@SevenBarSalvage]

I’ve got a video called “Willys Jeep Disk Brake Conversion” it’s totally dedicated to the disk brake swap. All the part numbers should be in the description of that video. I’m going to run rear drum for now and see how it works! If you need anymore help let me know! Thank you for watching!

[@xfactorautomotive1496]

I love your videos and don't mean to second guess you, but...why didn't you just run your front hoses from the caliper to the stock frame mounts and hard line inside the frame to the hoses like stock? There never was a hose to the axle...that's why there was no bracket on the cover. The center hose is redundant.

[@SevenBarSalvage]

There were no stock mounts anywhere on the frame or axle. But you’re right the center hose was a bad idea, I think in the next video I show I changed to like you’re saying hoses from caliper to frame but I had to make and weld on my own mounts. As far as the proportioning valve I just thought it made more sense to run one hard line with a “T” to feed both then running 2 lines but using both ports would also work. I made use of the other front port for a brake light switch. Thank you for your comments and thank you for watching I really appreciate it! Keep it coming!

[@charkear]

Your bump stops will crush your brake lines where you have the lines routed. Ask me how I know!

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Front or rear?

[@charkear]

The bump stops will strike between the ubolts. You axle is like mine and doesn't have the strike pads welded. Other axles have a pad located on top of the axle for the bump stop to hit. The brake lines need to be routed on the back side of the axle to prevent being crushed by the bump stops. This is on both the front and rear.

[@SevenBarSalvage]

I like the idea of the strike pads I might make some! Thank you for the advice!

[@jeepman1467]

Where did you the CJ-5 master cylinder bracket? Thanks

[@SevenBarSalvage]

It came on a 67 CJ5 from the factory (at least the Buick models I think) Kaiser Willy’s and Herm the overdrive guy sell a reproduction one! Thank you for watching!

[@palonghunter3608]

Is the prop valve necessary for doing just the front breaks?

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Probably not, if you have issues Wildwood makes a little in line valve to meter between the front and rear brakes

[@MrJeep75]

Why didn't you use geo tracker hoses to

[@SevenBarSalvage]

I believe the Honda lines are longer for more flex if I remember right. Good point!

[@zracer1099]

What part number is the master cylinder?

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Raybestos MC36456 www.summitracing.com/parts/agb-mc36456?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrsGCBhD1ARIsALILBYpn_Cusf5IXqc4CkSXyYKKgkhjnauP5OlqkY-HMmaTIXwBAJB_E0fcaAs0_EALw_wcB

[@barrythompson8656]

What diameter is the plunger in the master cylinder, ie, larger means more pressure required to make more brake. not an issue with boosted but significant for manual

[@SevenBarSalvage]

That’s a good question. I believe it is 1 1/16” so just slightly larger than stock. I can’t confirm it’s performance yet but it came recommended from others that have done this upgrade! Thanks!

[@barrythompson8656]

@@SevenBarSalvage I'm running the 15/16 dodge dart one on my 69 superbee when i swapped it to disc brakes, works fantastic

[@SevenBarSalvage]

@@barrythompson8656 I’ll have to look into that, thanks!

[@davewinstead4834]

What was the years for the donor vehicles? I don't see them listed.

[@SevenBarSalvage]

I just updated the description with part and model numbers. Let me know if I missed anything. Thank you for watching!

[@davewinstead4834]

@@SevenBarSalvage Thanks I have a 52 M38A1, but many of the parts are interchangeable.

[@kenny3217]

Whats going on with the Scout?

[@SevenBarSalvage]

New video on the scout next week!

[@robertnaughton5417]

Will the disc brakes work good enough for this Willy’s without a booster

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Yes this is a very common upgrade with great results!

[@robertnaughton5417]

So what components did you use,I will prob stay with stock rims so the backing plate is prob where I should ask first

[@johnthefisherman7047]

So how much did the whole conversion cost?

[@SevenBarSalvage]

The disk brake conversion came in around $250, master cylinder with all the brake lines, proportioning valve and fittings around $150. I already had the bracket so I saved money there but it wouldn’t be hard to fabricate your own. Hope this helps!

[@gregmara4628]

Can you please move your camera slower so we can see your progress and copy it thank you

[@SevenBarSalvage]

Sorry about that. If there’s any questions you need answered let me know. Thank you for watching!

[@triple777pilot]

Thanks Jacob….I’m hoping to find an adaptor but not having much luck. I might have to take you up on your offer. What is your email?

[@SevenBarSalvage]

[e-mail]!