Wind turbines, controllers and batteries explained, March 6, 2020

[@dillanclark864]

After 3 days of research, I finally came across your video. Really appreciate all the info you've supplied here and it's really great that you take the time to respond and help people in the comments. :) I'm busy 3D printing my first Airfoil vertical wind turbine. I'm looking to design an affordable system to keep a few items charged and operating during loadshedding (It's a South African thing). Not looking to make a profit, just want to help out where I can. Keep up the great work! :)

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard Dillan! Sorry it took so long to find me. Good luck on your project too.

[@baladanladiabraham6734]

When you are done I will like one of it From Nigeria one love man

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! I think you are my first subscriber from Nigeria!

[@baladanladiabraham6734]

@@GBear thank you sir

[@miguelsalami]

You can connect your dump load wires to a hot water heater heating element to heat water instead of sending it to a heating element that causes more hot air near the electronics & wastes energy. Thanks for sharing your setup & knowledge.

[@GBear]

That's true, but as I said before in prior comments of the same subject, I live in the desert and don't need any more hot water. My tankless propane water heater only is used a couple of months a year, and very little at that. The heat produced in the battery room, is usually in the winter and helps keep my batteries warm through that time, making them more efficient.

[@miguelsalami]

@@GBear Gotcha but for someone wanting to go Solar & heat their hot water tank for free using the dump load & a different heating element in their hot water heater works quite well. Speaking of batteries have you done any vids on battery maintenance for lead acid types?

[@GBear]

@miguelsalami Yes, before I actually moved out here, I had made a hot water barrel heater for my outdoor shower, but once I got here, I realized it was a waste of time. As for an actual video dedicated to battery maintenance, no I haven't. I have mentioned topping off with distilled water every couple of months, cleaning terminals, etc.

[@theatre_pigs]

this is the most old guy set up every. Nothing fancy and kinda made from rando parts. Love it.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Yeah, we all need to start someplace in learning about solar and what it will do.

[@jisake1]

Like your information. Only thought that comes to mind. Mounting electrical terminals on to wood have risk. Since humidity, accidental roof leak or even a hard driving wind/rain storm, can get the wood wet. Not sure if you are in a desert, but I could never do this.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard. Yes, I am in a desert, and the battery room is weather proofed so rain won't get in. Also note that all wood mounted connections are low voltage. (12vdc) the 120/240v stuff is all in electrical boxes and conduits. Thanks for your concern, though.

[@closertothetruth9209]

dumpload controllers with solid state relays SSR have a longer service life , well if the solenoid is switching on and off Alot because the turbine is in a good wind location the mechanical relays can get stuck on due to the result of endless arcing so many point out, Very Good video for beginners, one of the best ive seen.

[@GBear]

Thanks for the input! Yes, there are better systems, but keeping a mechanical solenoid cool is key to longer life. If you have the money, go with the relay unit, though.

[@stoneledgetinyhouse]

The dump load controllers with SSR you speak of are they the ones on the market that only use the AC 3 wires coming in then rectify & control the output to either battery or resistor/dump load? I am trying to take DC from a DC motor wind turbine (DIY) & divert it from the batts once full.

[@GBear]

A 3 wire PMA needs a rectifier to convert its ac output to DC, DC can then go to the battery and a digital diverter will keep the battery from overcharge by diverting excess to a dump load resistance.

[@bigrob1887]

@@GBear The solenoid shouldn't need a fan. If it's getting hot, it means it's probably not a constant current solenoid, or it's exceeding the rated voltage/current.

[@GBear]

@bigrob1887 true, but the fan keeps it cooler. 😆👍

[@MAMAlbertaGirl]

You have an incredible handle on this subject and you are a wonderful teacher! Thank you for explaining all of your components in detail using language that we can all understand. Thank you!! ❤

[@MAMAlbertaGirl]

Add on to my above comment ^^ If you ever have some extra time, would you be able to list or link some of the components that you used? So we can copy you!!

[@GBear]

You're welcome and welcome aboard!

[@GBear]

Will do. I already have videos showing my favorite components, but will do another

[@SherryTheSecretary]

Wow G Bear, Thanks so much. This clarifies both systems and answers a lot of questions. I feel more confident moving forward. It's so kind of you to put this together.

[@GBear]

You're welcome!

[@earlshine453]

Thnx for showing your shelf system on the GH poles. 2morrow I will install a removable shelf (above the potatoes in grow bags) for seed starting. Later on I will relocate the potatoes, remove the shelf and grow tomatoes in grow bags and use the full height of the GH. Best wishes, greetings from Holland

[@GBear]

Glad to oblige! Lots of space in a grow house, may as well find ways to use it!

[@earlshine453]

@@GBear Yep, there is way more space, I just thought of the possibilty of hanging a gutter near the roof for strawberries

[@GBear]

@@earlshine453 great idea! How about hanging baskets with herbs?

[@earlshine453]

@@GBear Looks like a good idea, especially for the winter months, for the other seasons I aim to construct some raised beds in full sun

[@themadmailler]

I learned more in the first five minutes that I did in the previous half hour looking at other stupid videos! Thanks!

[@GBear]

You are welcome, and Welcome aboard!

[@blutoe1868]

Would the 12 volt BLS be able to be integrated onto my motorcycle? Thanks

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! The 12v BLS will work on any 12v lead acid battery.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Thanks!

[@shiznit2001]

I only intended to watch just to get a certain answer I was looking for. Not only did I get the answer to my question but I also learned a lot more about things I hadn't thought of. I watched every second and am so thankful that I did. Thank you for taking the time to make this!

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard Richard! I'm glad I could be of assistance.

[@marcelinobasil6552]

Mr G Bear , first of all I appreciate you for enlightening us with this information. Is there a way to communicate, I have a few questions regarding this system. Thank you. ​@@GBear

[@GBear]

This works, and i get credit for the comments. Also, others can learn from the questions and answers.

[@420daily2]

You explained everything so well and now I feel way more confident. Thank you so much.

[@GBear]

You're welcome. Welcome aboard!

[@mr.makeit4037]

Very nice set up. I spread my panels to separate charge controllers and batteries which each are dedicated to a specific task and load. Also I would dump excess load to a hot water heater inorder to storage the excess. Nice work sir.

[@GBear]

Thank you and welcome aboard.

[@rihareviews4951]

Hi, G Bears I have 12v 105Ah 5 battery (525Ah). How many watt solar panels do i need to charge them? Thank you

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Just to charge them? Ok, I can see you are new to this, so let me help you understand more about solar. To charge a battery bank of any size, any size solar panel will supply a charge. To keep them charged as they may need more input. For a more accurate answer, more information is needed. 1. What will you be powering with your battery bank? 2. Are your batteries Lead acid, LifPo4, AGM, etc.? 3. Deep Cycle or Standard cycle? 525Ah only means you can supply 525 amps for 1 hour at 12 volts. Or , actually 1/2 of that. Because you only want to discharge a maximum of 50% of battery capacity. That gives you 3150 watts for one hour. (Amps times volts = watts) but remember, you will lose some of that just powering an inverter 12v to 120v. Heating and cooling appliances use a lot of watts, LED lights use very little watts. You need to total all the watts needed by your load, before you can determine how many batteries you need, and how many solar watts input you need, then what size charge controller and what size inverter you will require, keeping in mind that once the sun is gone at night, the battery bank will have the sole job of powering all your electrical needs without any help.

[@rihareviews4951]

@G Bear's Off Grid Ways-A Homestead In The Desert Hi, I am completely new for this knowledge. My main use for washing machine 240v 2500w with hot washing and I have 5 AGM battery's 12v 105Ah each and 3000w inverter. Thanks

[@GBear]

Ok, your battery bank is too small to run that washer after dark, and to run it during a sunny day you should have a solar array of at least the size of your load plus 20%. That will allow charging of the battery bank while powering the load. The washer will use 10.5 amps during standard run. Heating water will be a large draw. Using 220v, I assume you are in Europe? Your better choice would be 6 batteries connected series parallel for 24v, but then you would need to change your inverter to a 24v unit. Anyway, using 2000w of solar panels may allow you to operate the washer at peak sunny days. Connecting the panels in series parallel to increase the voltage will help also, but be certain not to exceed the charge controller's maximum voltage limits. You could possibly get by with four 305w solar panels, with 2 strings (connecting 2 panels in series, times 2) into a Midnite Classic 150 controller or equivalent since it will handle 12 or 24v input up to 150v. Just remember, always connect the batteries to the controller FIRST, then connect the solar panels, but dont do it while the sun is on the panels. Cover them.

[@GBear]

As a simple rule, to calculate how long a 12v deep-cycle battery will last with an inverter multiply battery amp-hours (Ah) by 12 to find watt-hours, and divide by the load watts to find run time hours. Finally, multiply run time hours by 95% to account for inverter losses.

[@rihareviews4951]

@@GBear Thank you

[@Dmagick2010]

that one green controller takes wind turbines too. i have the same one connected to four 100watt panels and a 400watt turbine

[@GBear]

Yes, it is a hybrid controller, but not a good one. Same with the one right beside it. I bought those in my early days of learning and retired them when I found better, more efficient options.

[@Dmagick2010]

@@GBear i just got it in February so far its doing its job but yes i will be upgrading in the future as my ranch and the system grow

[@GBear]

Smart man! We all have to start somewhere and sometimes learn the hard way. I try to share what I learned that hard way to help others save money, time and frustration. Welcome aboard!

[@Dmagick2010]

@@GBear i have seen i have been watching the channel off and on for the last year and a half now

[@GBear]

Thank you for your continued support.

[@stoneledgetinyhouse]

OMG ! Yes I REALLY like how you incorporated the solenoid into the path of the solar charge controller to the dump load. I was trying to find info to use PMA DC type wind turbines (I am making a small scale 12V 12A old water pump motor into a small vertical wind turbine to light a garden are at night :) Thanks again for posting all this GREAT info! ~C~

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Keep experimenting, it brings about new knowledge, at the least!

[@igorrogelj5033]

Great video. Can you explain how your wind controller manages the power cover to control the power taken from the turbine at different RPM or Voltages. This is important for efficient operation of the wind turbine, especially at low wind speed. Thank you.

[@GBear]

@@igorrogelj5033 Welcome aboard. I'll try in a video soon.

[@tajwalikhan5082]

Thank you, Sir, for the great detailed illustrated video which you made it easy for those like me who are hard to understand.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Thank you for watching.

[@richardschofield2201]

Enjoyed the video. One thing (probably of many) that I haven't figured out yet is how is the voltage from the pma regulated. I assume the voltage will vary with wind speed but you need a nice steady 14.5v to charge the batteries.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard. Yes, the voltage is quite variable from a PMA due to wind speeds. The best way to control it is through a Midnite Classic controller after the bridge connector. I still have mine 'old school' style where the bridge rectifier connects to the battery bank and a dumpload controller monitors voltages in the bank and dumps it if it exceeps capacity. I was going to upgrade to a Midnite Classic controller bit the economy made finances go south.

[@pulesjet]

Good Informative Video Sir. I have both in the works. 12V and 24V . The wind system being 24V. Most likely will be going with 24V only at some point. No Obstructions here so I can get away with the turbine only being 10Ft above my roof line. The main disadvantage of using a DC 2 wire Wind Turbines is DC voltage they produce requires heavier gauge wire and does not travel distances as well as AC or Three Wire systems can. They work for stuff like boats but for home use Best to just avoid the things. Well it's Semi Official. ​Wife works at Wally World and they was informed today to expect the shelves to start being short. The warehouses are feeling the pain. So if there was a Chines product your in need of at Walmart you might want to think about grabbing it.

[@GBear]

Good stuff! I don't buy much from Wally World, although a subscriber just sent me a $10 gift if I order food online and pick it up. A lot of imports are affected by the Corona virus. Makes one think if it wasn't by design to quell chinese imports....🤔

[@JesusFreakJene]

@@GBear Got to agree, there is something very fishy regarding Chinese stock exchange and Trumps new tariffs. Here's to bringing back pharmaceutical mfg to the USA and all the other things we consume 👍

[@davidthompson1529]

Great vid, G Bear. Very informative. Thank you. Im about to build a system on a mountain property we just purchased. Can you recommend any books that you may have read to build this and also have on hand for troubleshooting in a shtf situations. So many to choose from so felt you may be able to narrow it down for me. System I need to build I'd like to have stored power when I return every 3-4 weeks for a few days at a time. Wont be permanently moving up there for a few years or in event we are forced to do it sooner. I just want to do it safely and efficiently so as not to burn half a mountain's worth of trees down. Any advice is appreciated.

[@GBear]

@davidthompson1529 Welcome aboard, David. I didn't read any books on this stuff, although I watched many videos on YT. I also have 47 years experience as a General contractor. I'll help you in any way I can, just ask and I'll try to set you in the right direction.

[@W8QH]

Thanks for the video, I have been trying to get info on how to size the wind generator. My off grid system has 3x100 amp lithium battery and 2.1 kw max solar... I need extra when no sun for days but I have plenty of wind.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard Ed! Ok, let me simplify the sizing for you. Since wind generators seldom put out their rated value for a consistent time due to fluctuations in the wind, get the highest rated one you can afford. You'll still need either a diverter or a good Midnite classic controller, the latter being the better choice. Not all controllers can be used for wind, but the Midnite classic is designed for it and is very efficient at it. Take into consideration when going with wind power, max output at what wind speed? Also, 3 bladed units are a better design than 5 or 7 blade units, but size and shape make a difference also. The tower or mast height and strength. My little KT5 PMA has pulled a 300+ pound concrete anchor out of the ground in 60+mph wind. Guy wires need to be steel rope able to handle 3000-5000 lbs of stress in high winds also. Then consider access to the PMA for maintenance. Simple things like bird poop can throw the balance off, causing excessive wear. That brings me to another thing...be sure to check your hub and blade balance before installing them on the PMA for best performance and output. Lastly, consider where the PMA will be located and the distance from the battery bank. Wire size and PMA vs PMG are affected by that distance.

[@johnsader8811]

This is very helpful! I recently acquired a 'wincharger' 12 volt, PMG windmill, $100! With a mechanical brake, guessing 50's or 60's vintage, tail says: "heavy duty", appears it failed early on in its life, armature & brushes are like new, in the process of making the blade out of 1"×6"× 6 foot, mahogany. Was originally on a 3", (10' sections) 50 foot tall, tripple guyed tower. Planning on stepping it up to 24v using a c-series trace/zantrex multifunction DC controller, then into my 24v batt. Bank. Not sure what I'll use for the shun/dump load, or what size fuse to use. Any suggestions in regards to any of this greatly appreciated. Thanks, john

[@GBear]

Interesting. PMG's were actually dynamos. Most old auto generators used field coils, not permanent magnets and required high rims to produce efficient power. Those were not good for wind power production. A dynamo with internal permanent magnets was more efficient, but the magnets tended to lose power after a while, rendering them inefficient. If you in fact have a PMG that is not working, test the magnets draw on a screwdriver for strength of attraction. If strong, you are in good shape. If weak, you have problems, as finding new magnets to fit will be hard. As far as blades, balance is VERY important, as is weight, and strength. You would be better off ordering composite blades and hub online, and modifying the hub to fit your armature. As for the project, I think it would be a fun one, but not a profitable one, as the output would never compensate for the expense. But, let us all know what you decide and the outcome. Remember one other thing. The wind pressure on that unit will be the equivalent of a truck with a chain attached trying to pull down the mast.

[@johnsader8811]

Thank you for the reply, yes, it's just an old generator, I guess. I was just applying new terminology to say it's a gen. & not an alt. Getting ready to hook a 12v battery up. The more I look into this, the more fascinating I find it. Spring loaded wings are engaged as a sort of mechanical regulator, agreed, balance is of utmost importance, I'll probably end up setting it up, More as a display/ novelty. A new modern updated version sure would help out on those windy cloudy winter nights.

[@GBear]

@@johnsader8811 Yep, those oldies used metal blades. There's one in town where I need to go today. I'll get a picture of it and pist it in tonight's episode. It may give you some ideas.

[@johnsader8811]

@@GBear these were a Doug fir, 6' by 3 1/2". One piece, (2 blades). I agree the wind load on these must be horrendous. The mechanical brake is like a cars, with a drum & a shoe. Appears it was never used as booth retain their original paint. Thanks again for your straight forward videos. John

[@brushbum7508]

Thanks for all the info G Bear. TAKE CARE..

[@GBear]

You are welcome!

[@1puppetbike]

the best video I've seen. The only thing i would say is that golf cart and fork lift batteries can be one battery ... like on your shelf. or packaged together as a larger 4000lb !! battery.. .. I'm getting windy.. .. great breakdown! well said..

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard. Thanks for watching.

[@tombennett2705]

Way over my pay grade gBear. I think if I was to go off grid somewhere, and I'm not going to but if, I would just hire you and say build me one of those.

[@GBear]

Lol, thanks Tom.

[@W7DXW]

G. Bear, I have a three-wire wind generator, and common inexpensive potted wind controller that came with it. All three wires from the generator are the same color: Red. And the three controller wires are all the same color, also. Does it matter which generator wire goes to which controller terminal/wire?, or can the hookup be made in any fashion, and still have the same, best result? The face of the controller has a diagram of a three-bladed wind turbine blade, with the center wire of the three controller wires coming from the second (middle one) of the three generator wires. If the order of the hookup matters at all, how can I determine which generator wire is that center wire? Or, as I speculate, since all the wires and terminals have the same color, does the order of the hookup to the controller (rectifier) simply not matter at all? In any case, how did YOU proceed, and manage to get a good result in the hookup? Please help! Others here may have this question, too. Thanks!, --Joe / Tucson ARIZONA

[@GBear]

@W7DXW Welcome aboard, Joe! A 3 wire turbine is a Permanent Magnet ALTERNATOR, (PMA), and the order of the wires is not a factor in connections. Those 3 wires connect in any order to the controller you received with it, to the 3 same colored wires on the controller. That leaves a black and red wire to go to the batteries. You may want to order the following meter so you can monitor the power. amzn.to/3zZ6F8n

[@W7DXW]

Thank you! for your help, you've done me a great, good turn (and others here, too, I think, who may have had the same quandary and puzzlement that I had, as newcomers to wind power). I was trying to figure-out the connection scheme for days, and was frankly going a bit stir-crazy, with various mental topological twists and turns, trying to figure out if all the connection schemes are (or should be) in fact equivalent. I even resorted to experiment, and tried different permutations of the connections, while spinning the turbine generator with an electric drill, and always got the same voltage output no matter HOW I connected the wires. I couldn't believe my eyes. You've very kindly settled it for me, now. T-H-A-N-K Y-O-U ! ! --Joe / Tucson

[@GBear]

@W7DXW You’re welcome. Yes, it can be confusing to newcomers. The good thing is your test shows it is working properly, having the same voltage output on each combination. The charge controller they provide is basically a bridge rectifier which changes AC to DC through diodes. That's why I recommended the meter. Without a readout screen, you would never know if the power to the batteries was too high, especially with LiFePO4's.

[@rhynoklein7]

The reason automotive/car batteries don’t work well is because they use crank amps. Electric vehicle batteries don’t need that initial inrush of amps to crank anything.

[@GBear]

Exactly. Car batteries are designed to give a quick burst of power, then recharge slowly, where electric vehicle deep cycle are designed to release power slowly and recharge quickly. 24v aircraft batteries work well for solar, but are very expensive.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard!

[@mega-hb4re]

What a cluster you got going on there.

[@GBear]

Tell me about it! At least I woke up to a nice cool sunny morning with clear air and skies!

[@toobglued]

the green mppt has turbine input and dump terminals. have you considered buying another one for the turbine? or is the turbine greater than 600 watts. that green mppt is also available in 1000 watt model too. then you could get rid of the black pwm and its solenoid and use the all in one green controller to open and close the dump load.. also what about getting the 12v water heater element for your water heater tank to further alleviate grid consumption? heck its free energy. might as well right u definitely know what you are doing but you dont get any gold stars for organized wiring lol haha. good video tho. very helpful. thanks

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! My turbine is 1685watts. Those hybrid controllers are junk. I learned the hard way on that. I have since upgraded to a Midnite Classic controller for solar, and still use the dumpload as backup. But it never activates anymore because the Classic monitors the battery bank. I also have a tankless water heater so I don't need the preheated setup. You are in the early videos still, and you will see alot of advancements in later episodes of my playlist. Yeah, the wiring isn't pretty, but it works perfectly, lol. Thanks for your thoughts though.

[@toobglued]

@@GBear thanks , i will continue to watch. with the classic, when it shuts off charging to the bank, and you are rarely using the back up, how are you preventing over-speed without keeping some sort of resistance on the turbine?

[@GBear]

@toobglued the turbine is connected directly to the battery bank. In the future I will be controlling it through its own Classic, which will make it more efficient.

[@GBear]

Sorry, I said I had forklift batteries, I have golf cart batteries.

[@VickyGeagan]

I think they are the same thing that is what I use. They last forever when you run them properly I keep the voltage in my battery bank between 11.5 - 14.4. floats at 14.4 and does not go below 11.5.

[@GBear]

Forklift batteries are humongous! But they are 100 times stronger that golf cart batteries and last a lot longer. Golf cart batteries are a good choice, but add a BLS unit to help them last longer.

[@SherryTheSecretary]

Ah ok, I was wondering how your top shelf was supporting so many heavy forklift batteries! I had decided on golf cart batteries and the video helped validate my choice. I am assuming all your batteries are being charged with the wind and solar? Not one shelf for wind and the other for solar.

[@GBear]

@@SherryTheSecretary I don't know how I missed this for 7 months! Weird! Anyway, in case you still need the answer, all my batteries are a single bank charged by BOTH wind and solar.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard Jennifer. No, I never tried that, because it just won't work. A 12v PMA won't produce enough power to charge a 24v system, no matter how fast the winds are, or how high the wattage of the PMA. It is possible to run the 12v PMA into a rectifier, then use a step up transformer between the rectifier output and the battery bank, but even that would be inefficient.

[@wesalker3479]

What is the "load capacity" of the bearing between the post and the unit. Doesn't matter what the load capacity of the post and base is, if the pivot point won't hold up. . . . .

[@GBear]

About 3000psi. Holding just fine.

[@noahriding5780]

How close to the ground can you have the turbines and have them still work OK? I want to be able to put one up but not have it so high up that everyone sees it, because our municipality I don't know if I can get away with it yet. So I wanted to find out what th eminimum height to get these to work typically is? And because maintenance would be easier if they aren't really high up. Thanks.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard, Noah! If you live inside city limits, they usually aren't allowed. They need to be high up, especially around multiple buildings that would affect air flow. Also, if you are on grid, it wouldn't do you much good anyway, unless it was a very large turbine. Sorry to sound negative, but I don't want to mislead you.

[@noahriding5780]

@@GBear Hey GBear thank you for the reply. I appreciate the comments. You weren't negative but just being real. Actually you are probably right. I'm curious if they could be used for camping though, or if it would just end up being too hard for a portable set up with one?

[@GBear]

@Noah Riding The higher up you put them, the better they work. Solar is a much better bet for camping, as you don't always have wind, but the sun is pretty reliable. Turbines are supplemental providers, and shouldn't be relied on as the main source of power. After all, who wants to camp in 40mph winds?🤔

[@douglaslopez1808]

No doubt you live this tech I appreciate your time and your talent give us. I understand perfectly your explication. Thank you!

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Thank you!

[@stagman4611]

Been trying to find out more on using more than one solar array and wind turbine system but every where I’ve gone seen to think they can talk the lingo and you’ll understand it. You have answered most of my questions in layman’s terms which I understand. Many thanks And great video look forward to more. And subscribed 👍🏼👍🏼

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Anything in particular you need to know or clarify, just ask and I'll help if I can.

[@spoton5981]

@@GBear great vids g-bear. My question is more about solar. I’m still stumped on how to divert solar power after batteries are charged. Like to heat water. Is there a simple diverter system that can be triggered by a timer or voltage that doesn’t involve using the batteries. One person mentioned it being necessary to have a switch or relay before the charge controller to prevent micro cycling batteries. Im still very new to all this. Thanks

[@GBear]

Hi Spot On. Welcome aboard! Yes, there are ways to divert excess power to heating elements. Below is a link to one type, but the element included with this unit is for air warming. You would need to buy a water heater element in your voltage and subsitute it for the air heater element. I'm not promoting this particular charge controller, just showing you what is available. amzn.to/3yzDi8s You didn't mention the size, output, or even how much wind you get at your location, so I couldn't be specific on what you need or should expect from the setup.

[@spoton5981]

@@GBear I appreciate the help, and thanks! it’s a small solar setup for a shed. I’m really just looking for direction on the concept tho. Interesting charge controller! i just want to make sure that the dump load doesn’t pull from the batteries and micro cycle them as some KZbinrs mentioned some will. Do this “d” terminals carry the power right from the panels or will they pull from batteries? I haven’t seen charge controllers with a “d” symbol on them before

[@GBear]

Oh, wait! Are you just using 'solar'? No wind turbine?

[@jpsilver3510]

Im making a diy wind turbine from a single phase dc motor. Do i need to add a controller between the turbine and battery and if so, what controller should i look at? Thank you for the great video!

[@GBear]

Usually a DC turbine can be connected directly to the battery bank, but first you need to do some tests to determine maximum output of the generator to be sure it is in range for your batteries. Too low an output, your batteries won't charge. Too high an output and it will damage the battery. Using a controller, you will also need this information. If output is around 13vdc, you would charge a 12v battery. If output is around 39v, you would charge a 24v bank, etc. If connecting directly to the batteries, you would need a dump load diverter to protect from overcharge, and an inline diode to prevent backfeed to the motor. A charge controller should come with both features built in.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard.

[@jpsilver3510]

@@GBear thank you!! Great now i can finally get sterted. I think i do have a couple of diodes laying around. I didn't even think about backfeed.

[@gbltheolechurch5acrehomestead]

Hey FRIEND! Touching base with you! Interested in learning how much power it generates. It 12volts you say. 1685 watt??? Got to have 90 mile/hr wind…that is rare!

[@GBear]

Needs 90mph wind to produce 1685w. It starts producing at 9mph, but only about 30-40w. Normal winds here will reach 22mph and I can get a few hundred watts out of that. I have seen over 1000w in a wind storm with gusts of 45mph.

[@sunnee4518]

Thanks G bear!! great explanation, I’m trying similar project too, POC is done and now will need to design a battery bank. 1) how do you wire the batteries together with 2 source of charging ? I’m thinking to add another source for charging but not sure how to wire it. 2) If it’s a separated batteries zoning , how do we ensure the batteries are equally charge? 3) how do you connect all the batteries to the inverter? Do you have a battery bank management system in place? 4) how to detect a faulty battery under the batteries bank?

[@GBear]

Watch tonite's episode and I will answer your questions.

[@jakubhanisz595]

Hello. Thank you for a very good video. I have a 3 phase 12v PMA. From what you showed in your video I understand that I can connect it directly to the battery through rectifier, which I also have. But what would happen in case of stronger wind when my wind turbine starts producing about 18V for example? Will it not damage the battery?

[@GBear]

Yes, you need a charge controller/diverter and a resister also connected to the battery bank. The one linked below is for a 12v system, be sure to order one for your system voltage, and also purchase a load resistor that will handle the excess charge. I use a 300w resister. Check out Battery charge controller G4 440 AMP 12V solar panel wind turbine G4 / NO BASE on eBay! www.ebay.com/itm/233220526161?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=SC2_IhySQ8W&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=zdeiyk-orka&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL

[@jakubhanisz595]

@@GBear Thank you

[@GBear]

You are welcome.

[@VoxxRocks231]

Absolutely wonderful explanation. Contributions like yours are why I call this place KZbin University,

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Thank you!

[@procrastination_builds]

Are you in the Phoenix Valley? We bought some acreage in whispering ranch and I'd love to make something like this.

[@GBear]

No, sorry. I'm in the California high desert.

[@GBear]

But don't let my location stop you! Get er done, I'll give you support if needed.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard!

[@procrastination_builds]

@@GBear thanks I appreciate it.

[@GBear]

@procrastination_builds And I appreciate your patronage to my channel!

[@kurtryan6697]

Hello sir! We are recently conducting research on hybrid energy systems, we tried to apply them to an electric tricycle (somewhat similar to an e-bike), where a solar panel is mounted and a wind turbine, but for the wind turbine we used a vertical axis type and it is enclosed in a case, the wind flow would be from a roof scoop when the e-tricycle travels. What is your opinion on that sir? Do you think it would work? Also I have another question, sorry, if I would use separate charge controllers and the output would be in parallel towards a single battery, would my battery be charged? Would you recommend using buck converters for each output? I would appreciate the response sir, thank you! We could talk more if you'd like. God bless! Love your videos

[@GBear]

@kurtryan6697 Hi Kurt, Welcome aboard! It sounds like an ambitious experiment you have going. Some math and a few electrical test meters will help determine if it will work. Perpetual motion is not an option, even though some youtubers would like you to think it is. First you need to determine how much power the trike motor will consume under load in terms of watts. Then you would need to provide a power input from the turbines that slightly exceed your power usage, so that the battery receives a charge while using power to run the trike. Unfortunately, that might require a very large turbine, adding weight and drag on the vehicle, therefore requiring more power. Don't let that discourage you from trying, though. Just keep in mind all of the variables, and work to equalize your needs. In the past, solar powered vehicles overcame the weight and drag resistances by using lightweight frame materials, skinny tires with high air pressure capacity, angling the solar panels to reduce wind drag, etc. Remember, inverters don't get it perfect the first time. They experiment and find answers then try again.

[@kurtryan6697]

@@GBear thank you for the pushh!

[@kurtryan6697]

@@GBear is it okay if I would continue replying under this comment section in case I have more questions?

[@kurtryan6697]

@@GBear is it okay if I would continue replying under this comment section in case I have more questions?

[@GBear]

@@kurtryan6697 Yes. I'll help if I can.

[@rongray4118]

G-Bear... wife and I are headed off grid and looking for a 48 volt wind turbine for our 48 volt off grid (ALTE PRE-WIRED SYSTEM SCHNEIDER SW4024 INVERTER WITH MIDNITE CL150SL CHARGE CONTROLLER). Will one of these wind turbines work with our system? Thank you for any input. Blessed and Happy New Year to You and Your Family!

[@GBear]

Hi Ron! Welcome aboard! So, am I correct in hearing that you already live off grid and have a 48v system using a SW4024? That doesn't sound right. For a 48v system you should have the SW 4048. Also, a CL150 SL by Midnite won't work with a PMA. The SL is Solar Only. I'll need more information in order to guide you correctly, or you can call 877-878-4060 for more info on the Alte prewired system. They can actually configure a system to meet your needs. Note that there are 2 types of turbines. PMA & PMG. PMA is an alternator type with 3 wires, all the same color and needs a bridge rectifier to convert AC to DC before connecting to a charge controller. Also, you need to be sure the size of the turbine output won't exceed the voltage input specs of the Midnite, so you may need the Midnight Classic 200 or 250, full controller, (not an SL). Let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Happy New Year.

[@rongray4118]

@@GBear Not totally off grid just yet! You are correct about the 4048! My typing ability is not as good as it used to be and spell check is even worse! I quite comprehend that the PMA and PMG are different in system function. I found it interesting that you had multiple connection points to your battery bank and were also utilizing wind charging. I have not seen this type of charging system/points - and you caught my attention! So - I will have to speak with you or altE to see if our second Absolyte 48v Battery Bank can be charged with wind or not. Modified Sine Wave vs Pure Sine Wave is something I am still attempting to learn. We are building an Steel Building Style Canopy w/ Container to cover our RV while I slowly put things together. The process is slow due to me having a heart attack in Feb '23 - but I am getting strong enough to continue the process. I'll need power in the sea container to supply power to tools while I work and power to the RV when we move to the top of the mountain. Thanks for responding to my comment (I know they are long!) - I apologize for that!

[@GBear]

@rongray4118 Not a problem. Don't overdo it with working.

[@AUGUSTOSANCHEZ-op1lg]

Hello, on your eolic charger, what does mean the green light? Or how has to be regulated/calibración?

[@GBear]

@AUGUSTOSANCHEZ-op1lg Welcome aboard! I'm not sure if understand your English translation, but the green light on most chargers means it is charging properly.

[@davidpotter9462]

We've got winds up to 70 today...I'd have to use a 3 inch pipe lol...I got an Epever 4215 BN controller it can take 1000 w...my inverter/charger charges up to 29.8 v usually so I'll just use batteries for a load..how many volts does it make? I've got an old Honda alternator from a weird 660 car that usually makes about 36 volts so if I put 12 neodymium ring magnets in it , can I just use a diode bridge from an old Miller welder? I've got eight 85 amp hours at 24 volts until I can get 2 more

[@GBear]

Sounds like you have a great project in the works! Winds are 25mph here today with rain on and off.

[@sennabullet]

Awesome, super informative video. Thank you VERY much for sharing. Would love to see a diagram of your system (including parts make and specs). Would also love to hear your thoughts on how to choose a good turbine.

[@GBear]

Thanks and welcome aboard. I have some videos in my playlists that talk about what to look for in turbines.

[@nnaemekajoseph]

This solve most of my questions on wind turbine system, meanwhile I have a straight question and I need your help urgently, I have a 120v battery (solar already installed ) system and i want to upgrade by adding wind turbine on it to keep charging the batteries mostly at night, my question is … is it possible to go for 5qtys of a 24v 300watts wind turbine system and connect then in series just like solar modules to generate the 120v I needed to charge the system. please kindly share your ideals

[@GBear]

Good question! Unfortunately, I don't have an answer for that. I have not heard of anyone trying that. The best I can suggest is that you contact a turbine manufacturer. They may even be able to produce a 120v PMA for you. The 120v battery has intrigued me as the highest off grid bank I have heard of is 48v.

[@1stinsightpro101]

Hi 👋🏾 G l know it's been a while, ☺️ just wondering could you use a 12v wind turbine to change a 24-v battery bank, l was thinking if you had a converter 🤔 but not sure what do you think

[@GBear]

No, you can't. A 24 volt battery needs at least 25.5v to properly charge. If the incoming voltage doesn't exceed the battery's base voltage, the current can't flow.

[@danielgwatkin]

Hello G Bear, thank you for the very informative video. There are so few of these videos going into wiring details. I had a few questions as we are also installing a turbine, but this is in Wales UK. I am learning as I go along so please bear with me. The setup is a 5Kw turbine, standard three-phase (three magnets), 300 yards from the house. 48v batteries with a 5kw controller. I have laid 2 x 10mm cables from the turbine (instead of 3) does the controller now have to be located at the turbine site as it has a three-cable ac input? Or, could a rectifier be put next to the turbine to convert to the two cables? Any advice is appreciated, Dan

[@GBear]

Hi Dan, welcome aboard! Since 2 rectifiers can't be used on the same PMA, you would need to mount the controller at the PMA. The problem is, if you do that, then you need to use larger diameter wire from the controller to the load. The reason we choose a PMA over a PMG is to save on conductors (wiring size). It looks like your best option is to run a third wire from PMA to controller.

[@sersang]

How did you choose the current rating of the rectifier and charge controller. Thank You

[@GBear]

@@sersang Welcome aboard. By the max output stats of the PMA.

[@evil17]

Good vid & explanation of ur system G Bear. Wouldn’t it makes sense to use ur dump load to make hot water or at least a pre-heater for a hot water system, but use ur excess solar power from ur controllers as well, as soon as ur batteries are full SOC have the controller divert any extra power to ur hot water system. I have a 50ltr hot water system that operates this way on a stationary 40’ bus, a 24v system, 3kw AIO inverter, 2.5kw pv panels & 10 kwh lifepo4. I can run microwave, 2.5kw split air con, H/W system, everything off Solar & heat water for the family of 4 showers daily while fully charging batteries. I have a 24vdc multi power element (300w, 600w, 900w capable) for the H/W system but never fitted it as I use the inverter with a AC voltage/dimmer control so I can adjust the output to the 240vac 1800w element I installed previously, instead of the 3600w element it had standard. I can use the controller to vary the power usage of the H/w system if its cloudy or for other reasons. For my house I have a 5kw AIO 48v system with 10 kwh of pv (grid tied) & 30 kwh of lifepo4, I only use about 20%-25% battery SOC a night on either system generally, higher voltage systems are much more efficient if ur going to use an inverter, & use a step down (or up) converter for lights & light loads to save on wasted inverter idle power usage. Lifepo4 batteries are a game changer now days in so many ways & using a decent shunt ,means you can know very accurately how much power is going in, out & still available. They were PWM controllers u were trying to think of , it stands for ‘Pulse Width Modulation’, but Im sure u know that. Cheers

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard. I live in the hot desert, and don't use much hot water at all. I use a propane, tankless water heater that gives me on demand hot water when needed. It is off 10 5 months of the year. My tote-cuzzi outside doesn't have a heater either, and the water is at 90°F or better.

[@racingrobert1]

Thank you for the videos. Question can I add a wind turbine to my existing solar setup rather than a power dump I want to have the PMG turbine go through a charge controller. My solar setup is identical to your solar setup

[@GBear]

Yes. You need a separate Midnite Classic controller dedicated for the turbine. With the Midnite Classic you will be able to adjust the curve for optimum power from your turbine. Note, if you have a PMA, you still need a bridge rectifier between the PMA and the Midnite Classic.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard!

[@helpmikey]

curious will it not damage the battery if you feed the output of the rectifier direclty to the battery ? . Again I am not expert on this just asking to expand my knowledge. do you still need a voltage regulator to match the proper charging voltage of the battery ? feed the output of the rectifier to a voltage regulator or PWM or charge controller ? thanks

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! First, let's start with the basics. You should not attempt to charge, let's say, a 12v battery bank with a 24v turbine. Think of it like you car. You wouldn't replace the alternator with one that outputs higher voltage, right. Now, yes, you 'could' do it using a specific charge controller, a transformer, etc., but it would complicate your system and life, while costing you more. As far as connecting the bridge rectifier straight to the batteries, yes it will damage the batteries unless you also add a 'dump load diverter' to handle overcharges. You could also use a Midnite Classic charge controller set up for wind power conversion, which is the best option, as this allows you to fine tune and adjust the input for best efficiency.

[@hardylioness]

Hello from the UK. Have you ever tried running a 24v turbine with a 12v battery bank, former forklift batteries 6 x 2v each. I can't find much on it. I've tried this and didn't get any power from the turbine, 15w max. Was brand new. I tried it with the controller and also bypassed that and used rectifier only, again nothing even in strong winds. Would you have any idea if it could be the controller not up to it (I used the one it came with) or it just won't work. Just thought I'd ask in case you tried it. Thanks for this video, very detailed and picked up lots of tips.

[@GBear]

Sorry, for my last response, I read your question backwards. Haven't had my coffee yet.😉 A 24v PMA would have a way to high output to use on a 12v battery bank and could damage the batteries. That would be like plugging a 120v fridge into a 240v outlet. Again, you could use a step down transformer, but not efficient. It is possible that your turbine is not PMA (permanent magnet alternator) and actually a standard alternator that requires electricity input to produce output. In that case, the 12v input would be too low to activate the alternator.

[@hardylioness]

@@GBear ha! No problem. Coffee is fuel, for sure! It was a recommendation from another KZbinr. 500w turbine 24v 5 blades for a 12v set up but I found it didn't output anything. OK, thanks for your answer and analogy. That helps. J : )

[@GBear]

Yeah, the one thing to remember with turbines is, If it is rated 500w with a maximum speed of 60mph wind, what they are actually saying is you need a 60mph wind to get 500w. But for basic electrical in wind and solar, you should ALWAYS match voltages.

[@paulball1767]

Fantastic to actually be shown and the explanation as to how to instal thank you so much x🎉

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard, Paul!

[@ktw5704]

Sir,, you use only rectifier to charge the battery from the wind turbine,, my question how to safe the battery if there are over voltage or under voltage,, because now in the market already available many charge controller for wind turbine. Could you explain please

[@GBear]

I also have a dump load (diversion) unit connected to the battery bank in case the PMA input gets too high, the dump load activates and puts a load on the battery bank to absorb the excess.

[@toprjf739]

I purchased a Lantern type PMA for my travel trailer. I have the same Green MPPT Wind/Solar hybrid controller as in your video. The instructions for setting it up are confusing. Can you please make a video on how to setup the controller.

[@GBear]

I found the same thing when I tried to read the Chinglish instructions. I don't recommend using that controller for your PMA. Instead, buy a bridge rectifier to convert the AC to DC and go directly to the battery bank. Use a digital diversion control to protect from overcharge. You can find the items on Ebay.

[@jamesdriver8131]

Comprehensive thank you. I'm wiring multiple charge controllers and mixing solar and wind. This clarified a lot. Thanks.

[@GBear]

You are very welcome, and welcome aboard!

[@philstat100]

Thank You for the freat video and information. I will have to watch this video again in the near future.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Yeah, I no longer use those controllers since I got my Midnite classic 150 and Renogy Rover controllers. Like day and night in efficiency!

[@TSchrodinger]

What are the technical characteristics of that selonoid? Could you provide connection diagram of the selonoid with the controller, thanks

[@GBear]

Hi, welcome aboard! That solenoid was specifically designed for that dump load system which is no longer used. The unit that replaced it is a digital diversion control.

[@TSchrodinger]

@@GBear Thank's man!

[@GBear]

You're welcome.

[@hulksmash3259]

This video is great thank you so much. I have one question...my energy usage is a little under 200kWh a month, would you think your set up would cover that much power or would I need a bigger set up?

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! You would probably need a slightly bigger system. I produce approx. 3.4kwh per day as is.

[@hulksmash3259]

@@GBear Got 3 people in house so they consume a lot lol but going off grid soon, thanks for your help 👍

[@GBear]

@@hulksmash3259 Good luck! Let me know if you need more info.

[@googlerreviewer4368]

did you think about hooking up an on grid inverter to the solar panels inverter instead of the grid?

[@GBear]

I am OFF the grid, and don't even have grid power available out here. The new AIMS split phase inverter works wonderfully! I power my cabin, my work shop, and my shipping containers with it, and run an assortment of power tools, including a milling machine, metal lathe, wood lathe, band saw, tablesaw, and welder, etc to name a few.

[@GBear]

Also, I see you are commenting on an older video. I have since then upgraded a lot of equipment, including controllers and Inverter. Keep watching through my playlists.

[@googlerreviewer4368]

@@GBear ok sir, I will do.

[@googlerreviewer4368]

@@GBear I want to try this new thing but you seem to have an in-lighting experience: I am thinking of getting a 10Kw wind turbine with an ON grid inverter and attach it to my 5Kw solar panels. the reason: on grid wind inverters only work when they are ON a grid and receiving power, they work by matching the power they are getting. hopeful results: my wind turbine will work without batteries and when it is windy, I have power, when it is not...solar will kick in. What do you think BOSS?

[@GBear]

I am not a specialist in on grid solar and wind, but I don't think your plan will work. Most grid tied solar systems are balanced and adding a separate input to that circuit may short the whole system. I have heard of people adding a 48v PMA turbine to their grid panel, but since I don't have grid tie, I didn't push to learn how they did it.

[@alizee3687]

Another great video. Do you know what is the difference between 12V and 24V PMA I'm confused about which ones to buy? Also, why didn't you use MPPT for your PMA circuits it has a built-in rectifier and auto-switch ON and off function in case of overcharging

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Yes, the difference between 12v and 24v or 48v PMA'S is what you use them for. 12v for 12v battery bank, 24v for 24v battery bank, or 48v for either 48v battery bank, or grid tie. I don't use mppt controller for my PMA simply because it is rated for 1865 watts which exceeds most controller's ratings. I may however try a midnite classic 250 controller in the future, but since the system works as is, there is no need to spend money to fix it.

[@alizee3687]

@@GBear Thanks for explaining the different volts system. What Volt system are you using? would you mind making a video on how to set up 24v battery banks and how to apply an MPPT or charger and power inverter to Parallel to the series battery banks? I am using a modified car alternator as PMA with MPPT my PMA produces 9V which going through my MPPT shows 25V and I can trace 25V all the way to my parallel 24V battery bank (set of 4 batteries in parallel) I have not put any load on my system because I'm not sure my MPPT is charging because it hasn't shown Red charging light in any of my tests run I can only see Green light ON and set of Arrows flashing towards bulb in MPPT display. I am not sure my PMA and MPPT are compatible with each other as well as they are charging the batteries but thanks to your answer I am going to buy 24V PMA I think I should run everything 24V on my system.

[@GBear]

I'll address all your questions in tonight's video. Are you using 12v batteries?

[@alizee3687]

@@GBear I'm using 4 12V batteries in 24v series to parallel connection

[@GBear]

Ok. Watch tonight's episode for answers.

[@bobdobalina838]

Great stuff, thank you! so basically the power from wind is going straight into the batteries ( disregarding the rectifier) not using something like a charge controller like the solar does, correct? Would this same setup translate to hydroelectric, no? (Pelton wheel being spun by water) lastly, where did you get that display showing power and voltage? Or what did you Google for?

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Yes, 3 phase AC power comes in from the PMA (turbine) goes through a bridge rectifier to make it Single phase DC, then through the "high precision wattmeter", then through a breaker to the batteries. Then a dump load unit or digital load diverter is applied to the battery bank to prevent over charge.

[@noahriding5780]

Do you ever have to replace the blades on these turbines? And if you do, will they even be willing to sell them?

[@GBear]

Blades can become damaged from elements and other things like bird strikes, etc. Yes, you can buy replacements from Thermodyne.

[@anthonypape6862]

One small correction, the difference is between a PMA and PMG is NOT that PMA is AC and PMG is DC, they are both AC. The PMA is designed for a car originally and the PMG is designed to be a generator and is essentially better in every way.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard. Sorry, I have to correct you. A PMA has 3 wires all the same color, and no specific order of connection, all output, because it is AC (Alternating Current) until it runs through a bridge rectifier which is constructed of a series of diodes and converts that alternating current into direct current (DC) by redirecting multiple inputs to directional input/output. A PMG is a Direct Current "generator" That produces electricity through a 2 wire Direct Current, positive to negative, power with one red and one black conductor. Power out through positive and return through negative. The correction to your statement is: Both PMA & PMG are "alternators", the difference being, a PMG has a rectifier built in, an PMG requires one at the conversion location. This is why a PMA is preferred. An alternator, (requires smaller conductors) for longer distance of run, saving money on wiring, and conduit sizes. Thanks for your comment.

[@anthonypape6862]

@@GBear I don’t kwow what to tell you. PMA is car alternator. It makes AC. The PMG is a 3 phase generator . It also makes AC. The one i have has 6 wires one sour I’d it. 6 wires coming out of it.

[@robertshrum5209]

I have definitely been leaning towards used forklift batteries.thanks for the reinforcement of that idea

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Yeah, i sure wish I could afford them and had the facilities to house them. I recently received an ad for refurbished ones for sale.

[@911aDay]

hi, so what happens after 90 MPH winds in terms of current, I was thinking of getting one to also work with my solar for hurricane offset?

[@GBear]

If it is rated to 90mph and it exceeds those wind speeds, you walk around picking up the pieces. The pressure on the turbine and tower at lower speeds is equivalent to a car with a chain trying to pull it down.

[@buddha2845]

Very much explanatory,,I appreciate your efforts to tell all things

[@GBear]

Thank you.

[@carmanbazza]

Hi G Bear, I’m getting a 24v wind turbine and I already have 6x12v batteries, do I get a 12v inverter or 24v, much appreciated.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard. First, you didn't say if your turbine is 3 wire PMA, or 2 wire PMG. You also didn't mention if your turbine has a controller, or not, and you didn't say if you also had solar coming in. If you plan to use the turbine, you MUST configure your battery bank to 24v, use a 24v controller if you also have solar, and a 24v inverter. The solar controller gets connected to the 24v battery bank FIRST, then connect the solar panels. If you are not using a charge controller for your AC turbine, you will need a 24v bridge rectifier between the incoming 3 wires of the turbine and the battery bank. If your 24v turbine is DC (2 wire, red and black) it can connect directly to the battery bank of 24v, but a dump load diverter will also be necessary.

[@carmanbazza]

Thank you for a very quick reply, I have ordered the ista breeze turbine kit i1500, with the controller & dump load .hope this helps.. thanks .

[@GBear]

Are you planning to have solar also, or just the turbine?

[@carmanbazza]

Sorry forgot to mention yes I have a few solar panels, it’s 11pm here . I’m half asleep 💤

[@carmanbazza]

Yes if it’s safe to link up

[@JR-xw5dk]

When you need to replace your batteries do you think you will go with Lifepo4 batteries? They are getting cheaper all the time. Thanks for the video.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Not sure about that. The extreme temps out here are not good for LiPo

[@JR-xw5dk]

If you have some strong young and very good friends an earth bag structure might be an option. Maybe one for the batteries and one for the other equipment. The equipment room could heat the battery room. Eg4 now has a self heated battery, I think it is 13kw and is about $4000. Maybe a suggestion for someone starting out that could be expanded on. Maybe a subject for your new paid channel. We could see some deflation in batteries after we get through inflation going down. Again thanks for sharing.

[@GBear]

@@JR-xw5dk Thank you for the information. I'll at least do my research so I know what I'll be dealing with in the future.

[@JR-xw5dk]

Not anything I have tried but just something I thought about. If you can get the right thickness of wall you might get it warm enough for the winter and then cool enough for the summer. Maybe do earth bag work shops. Get people to pay you to work for you. 😂

[@GBear]

@@JR-xw5dk lol, thanks. I'll keep that in mind.

[@hoosiersolarpower974]

G bear great video can you charge a 48v lifepo4 104AH x 5 in parallel with a 24v wind turbine i have 1520AH in this 48v system

[@GBear]

Sorry, no. A 48v battery bank requires a 48v PMA (turbine) because the input needs to be higher than the battery voltage. You would need a 48v turbine. Welcome aboard!

[@hoosiersolarpower974]

@@GBear Thank you for the reply i'v watched alot of videos good job

[@GBear]

You're welcome.

[@adamokuhle9753]

Hi! I'm the new subscriber. Great video and very helpful info. Thanks!

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard, Adam!

[@CosiMonger]

Is the Desulfater connected to one battery in the battery bank?

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! All connections to a battery bank should be made accross the whole bank. Ie; + of the first battery, - of the last battery.

[@cheriecrewdson]

We have a 5000W wind generator and 16 6 volt batteries run parallel and in series for 12Volt 830 AH and 600W solar panels but our batteries arent going above 12.3. Should we use a different gauge wire for the wind generator? We are using low voltage wire right now.

[@GBear]

Your wind generator is rated 5000w, but that would only happen at maximum wind speed. You should concern yourself with solar power and use wind as an added plus. You didn't mention what type of controller you use, and how your solar panels are connected for what input. I suspect there is your problem. Please give me more information and I will try to help you solve the problem.

[@EricPriest-m6q]

Can it be incorporated into a solar system like using a Delta Pro type battery

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Can it? Yes, but would I? No. You didn't mention the capacity of your Delta Pro back up system, but if it is, let's say, 3600watts, and 12v, that makes it 300A, and these little PWM controllers would not provide much charging power, although any solar system charge would be better than none. Your Delta is a backup power source designed for temporary power in case of a blackout. It should not be expected to permanently power your household.

[@EricPriest-m6q]

Just wondering if it could be used as a backup

[@GBear]

@@EricPriest-m6q Yes, but a good MPPT controller with say 300w of solar panels would be the way to go.

[@DirtDiggersUK]

good info QUESTION for a newbie. What can you actually use this to power in your house? example your tv and a few lights? how long do all those batteries last if the wind power and solar is off? thanks man, just trying to learn here.

[@GBear]

I power my cabin and workshops on my system, and have gone a week with overcast skies without running out of power.

[@critter9857]

how did u ground your wind turbine? where did u attach the ground wire? my wind turbine is 20 feet up its on water well poles. how would i go about grounding it?

[@GBear]

Drive a 6 foot ground rod into the ground if you don't already have one nearby, then attach the metal tower to that ground rod with at least #6 solid copper wire. The PMA or PMG is already in contact with the metal tower so no wire is needed at that connection.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard!

[@khalidatiq8518]

Very informative Thanks for this. Question.. What is the use of pma and pmg

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! A PMA (3 wire) is an alternating current device which requires an external rectifier to convert the alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC) for connection to the battery bank . A PMG has a rectifier built in, so only 2 wires come from the unit, directly to the battery bank. The PMA can use smaller gauge wire than the PMG which saves money, but also having the rectifier built in means you would need to bring the PMG down to replace the rectifier if it burns out.

[@peterking5372]

Thank you very much G Bear 🐻 for sharing this most excellent and educational wind and solar video

[@GBear]

You're welcome, and welcome aboard!

[@gajanantayde8761]

Tell me about 2 wheeler windmill which have install on stearing.

[@GBear]

I'm sorry, I don't understand your question.

[@gajanantayde8761]

Ok

[@momentomori5263]

If it's only wind powered does it need to reduce the voltage to the battery I've seen people just straight charge the battery but I don't think it's very good for the lifespan

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! If the turbine is DC (2 wire) and rated for the battery bank voltage, then it can be wired directly to the battery bank, but then requires a dump load system to protect from overcharge. If the turbine is AC, (3 wire), it needs to go through a bridge rectifier first, then to the battery bank, but it still needs to be rated for the battery bank voltage. This also needs a dump load controller to prevent overcharge. Both can instead be connected to a charge controller rated for turbines, NOT solar.

[@momentomori5263]

@@GBear thank you for the information! 🙂 Greatly appreciate it

[@GBear]

You're welcome. Thank you for supporting my channel!

[@bigrob1887]

Connecting multiple charge controllers _without_ parallel capabilities will work, but it won't work very efficiently and you'll lose out on a lot of power, especially mixing MPPT and PWM controllers.

[@GBear]

@@bigrob1887 Yeah, but it only worked for 9 years.

[@LostSoulsMed.]

I have a crazy Idea, can you make the regulated output of the wind charge controller as an input of a solar charge controller, coz Im planning this as an input for my hybrid solar off-grid inverter charge controller, because in that inverter not much power is wasted because when the inverter sense that the battery is full the generated energy is then be used first by current house consumptions and wind turbine have a lot of wasted energy going into the dump load

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard. Your answer is no. Unless it is a hybrid controller designed to handle the putput of your PMA. Many PMA's can put out excessively high amps and watts in high winds, and would damage a solar charge controller.

[@LostSoulsMed.]

@@GBear thanks for the response, But Most of the solar charge controllers have their rated charging current, lets say 30A 40A 60A, so why worry about damaging the controller if they are likely to get the maximum power they can handle then after that they will stop receiving power(lets say more than 60Amps) and 2nd option is to get a solar charge controller which has higher charging rating than that of the wind controller so that , that issue could be eliminated, thanks for you response sir

[@GBear]

@eaglefox8455 one of my viewers earlier this year tried it and blew up his controller. I have seen my PMA produce 88 amps in high winds.

[@LostSoulsMed.]

@@GBear thanks for clearing it up steve, and giving some practical experience, I really appreciate it:)

[@rosstga]

Hi Thanks for all the tips, wondering if you can explain how you spilt the dual solar panel loads due to the size of the controllers Thanks Ross Tga NZ

[@GBear]

First, Welcome aboard! So, I connected 2 of the 305 watt panels in series, (positive to negative), and did the same to the other 2 of the 305w panels. This doubles the voltage output from 40voc to 80voc per set. Then using a 2 to 1 MC4 splitter I connected those two sets in parallel, (positive to positive, negative to negative), this keeps the voltage at 80voc, but increases the amps from approx 10 amps to approx 20 amps. Then I up the gauge of wire from 10ga to 8ga from the splitters pos and neg directly to the Midnite controller which has already been connected to the 12v battery bank. The VOC input can peak at 80voc/20aoc, just over the 50% mark the Midnite 150 can handle, but the MPPT balances it to somewhere around 65v/25a input, meaning I can add another 4 of the 305w panels connected in the same way and safely stay within the allowable parameters. Then I connected my old 100w panels in series groups of 4 each, and parallel 3 strings (groups). I brought the pos/neg leads times 3 into 2 bus bars, then a single pos/neg to the Renogy controller which was also already connected to the battery bank. The Renogy has a max input of 112voc which I stayed under, and the amps are around 20 per string (group), so approx the same input as the 305w strings. I hope that helps you understand, but if not, let me know and I will do a walkthrough video for you.

[@socaloff-grid9303]

I hooked up my turbine to my 24v solar system I already have set up. During the day, I can tell there is resistance to the turbine. At night, the turbine just free spins. Do you know what the problem is?

[@GBear]

Sounds like backfeed? Is your turbine 2 wire or 3 wire?

[@digitaldreamer5481]

@@GBear I could be wrong but something tells me that his turbine isn’t made for a 24 volt system. I bet I could figure out the issue in a few minutes with my multimeter. Rule of thumb for me when it comes to DC power and battery banks: Never trust your eyes and the color of wires, only trust your volt meter, volt meter never lies!

[@GBear]

@@digitaldreamer5481 true! I can't see what he has, and as usual I didn't get enough info in the description.

[@wesleyscott2169]

what brand is your wind solar combo can you share a link Im looking to buy one

[@GBear]

Don't waste your money. The wind/solar hybrid controller DOES NOT work for both at the same time. It is one or the other. Welcome aboard. Most are limited to 600w or less too.

[@wesleyscott2169]

Thank you sir for the reply now I have to refigure my game plan

[@ahsath]

what is the point of having a PWM module connected to the batteries to dump extra power if the power reaching to the batteries from the rectifier are already charging your batteries, won't they get damage over time more quickly provided there is no controller before power reached them after they peek in power? it seems to me that the PWM controller should go after the rectifier to charge your batteries and not later, not a criticism, i'm wanting to build a water wheel generator with either a PMA or PMG and its a bit confusing with all sort of information in the internet on how to connect stuff

[@GBear]

Since a PMA or PMG can put out excessively high watts and amps at times, running it through a controller requires a special controller to handle those ranges. I have seen my PMA put out 166 amps, and actually fry the rectifier which was rated at 150A. The PMA is specially designed to operate a 'dump load' system, which puts a 300w load on the battery bank when excess power is created.

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard.

[@hoosiersolarpower974]

Ok G Bear i bought a 11 blade hornet SC48VDC Wind Turbine 1200 watts can you suggest wire sizing 50' tower 40' from power wall break switch controller etc...50 amp PS and a good Dump load

[@GBear]

Is it 3 wire PMA, or 2 wire PMG?

[@hoosiersolarpower974]

@@GBear 2

[@GBear]

2 wire is a PMG (DC) and requires heavier gauge wire than a PMA (AC) turbine. But it can be connected directly to the battery bank with a dump diverter, of you can run it through a Midnite Classic controller for best output and protection of your battery bank. Unfortunately, a DC turbine requires heavier wire at an increased price, and for the distance you mentioned, I suspect #6 stranded PV wire will be required.

[@hoosiersolarpower974]

@@GBear Thank you G Bear I was thinking 4 gauge but if 6 will work then so be it Thank you again

[@hoosiersolarpower974]

Do you think i should have a separate ground and surge protector

[@yellowwero4732]

Hi. I am Graham. How do you connect 2 or more charge controllers to the battery bank. Do you do it in parallel to the same battery bank or you split the battery banks so that each controller charges its on Bank. I have tried putting them in parallel to the same battery bank but one of the controllers always get damaged. Please help.

[@GBear]

Hi Graham, welcome aboard. They need to be connected to the bank at different locations, and should be set with the same parameters. Also, only one should have the 'equalization' feature turned on. Connect the first one, positive to positive of the first battery, negative to the negative of last battery. Connect the other, positive to last battery, negative to first battery.

[@googlerreviewer4368]

you are the first person that I has a wind/solar power that prefers lead acid or golf cart batteries over deep cycle or lithium batteries. May I know the reason?

[@GBear]

My lead acid ARE deep cycle. They are golf cart batteries, specifically designed to handle heavy loads and discharge slowly, then recharge quickly. When I started with wind and solar, about 8 years ago, these batteries only cost $99/each. They did the job at an affordable price. As lithium became more popular, I almost wanted to switch, but their cost and them not liking extreme heat or cold persuaded me to stick with these. Welcome aboard!

[@googlerreviewer4368]

@@GBear Thank you. I was considering gold cart batteries because they are cheap. now I am just considering to buy used (burned out) batteries to regulate the Voltage so that the inverter work. I don't care about storing energy. I will let you know how it works!

[@GBear]

@@googlerreviewer4368 hmmmm, burned out batteries won't have voltage enough to run an inverter and produce output.

[@googlerreviewer4368]

@@GBear I know they won't store any amps or power inside but I want to try it. because as soon as you charge a burned out battery, it would give you 12V, remove the charger away, it would go back down to 8V. so there's a slight chance that it might work. this way, it would work as long as it is windy or sunny. I will keep u posted about the result.

[@GBear]

Ok, but I hate to sound pessamistic...the inverter will probably shut down when volts go below 10.5.

[@peterjoseph2803]

Hi G Bear. I have a question for you. I'm looking to get near offgrid battery storage. At the moment I'm looking at a total of 1000AH in total. 4 batteries 12volt. Set up to give 24volt. Will this be enough for a small house hold. The batteries will set me back 2000€ for the 4. What do you think.. will that be enough to run my home. I would appreciate your input. Thanks Bear! I have watched this video 4 times and sheared it to people who have the same interests. Great stuff!!!

[@GBear]

Hi Peter, Welcome aboard. Short answer, probably not. I really don't have enough information to make an accurate comment. I suspect your household items are 220-240 VAC from your monetary symbol. To properly size the battery bank you first need to total the number of watts needed to run all your household items. There are many charts available online to help you size your battery bank and solar size. If it helps any, I run my small cabin on a 12v battery bank made up of 18 each 6v deep cycle golf cart batteries, connected to make 12vdc input to my inverter. I recently added 4 more larger batteries. The first group totals 2007ah, and the second group is 740ah, total=2747 amp hours. This configuration runs all the basics, and will run a window air conditioner in the daytime with the 2900 watts of solar input, but won't handle electric heating units, toasters, microwaves, etc after sunset.

[@peterjoseph2803]

Wel it's a good starting point 1000amp at minimum. Its called: (sonnenschein Gel Deepcycel battery). I have a 3kw three-phase vertical axle turbine (Makemu.it) no solar panels. i guess it's a question of trail and error. Thanks for your support Bear. The smart battery big brands have 8kw battery storage at minimum 5000€. Expensive purchases. Keep safe.

[@GBear]

@@peterjoseph2803 wind is good for a back up, but solar panels are king for daytime power.

[@davidpotter9462]

I got a fan for that that plugs into the usb port on the controller, uses .1 watt, nice roller bearings, really quiet...the solenoid is like the one on a John Deere...if I ever get these tapered head Japanese screws out of this Honda PMA, I'll cobble one up, all I like is the solenoid...it's got magnets in it but I've got stouter ones, lol..yeah now that I've got 12 batteries I need a windmill...well too many irons in the fire but slowly slowly...when the sun got stronger a week ago the 10 I had would be full and now it's holding more...I have the forbidden bad ones you mentioned...for one reason I have to move them one day by myself as always and I dont have my old John Deere 790 with the front bucket anymore, just my butt...these are like 80 pounds each though...I can always get a fork truck battery later and have 1500 amp hours with the ones I have and it....I have to allow for the time to save up for such a big heavy thing ....but I can get by on what I have pretty well..I just have to do it between rain storms lol

[@GBear]

Off grid is usually about making concessions. My favorite saying: Function before beauty!

[@GMan958]

Why do not you connect the wind turbine to the input of the hybrid controller and charge all the batteries from there?

[@GBear]

I originally had it that way, but couldn't monitor the turbine input at a glance. Knowing what I know today, I would never spend money on a hybrid controller again.

[@themidfier6591]

Greetings sir, if you connect the generator to the batteries as load but then also connecting them to inverter, doesn't it mean you charge and discharge the batteries simultaneously? I'm sorry I'm confused

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! That's ok, I'm a little confused too. A generator is not a load. A generator generates power, it does not use power. In an off grid system, the batteries are for power storage. Power is created by solar or wind, and in some instances, by hydro. The inverter changes DC power to AC power to operate AC appliances. During sunlight hours, the solar panels not only charge the batteries, but also power the inverter, assisted by the wind turbine if wind is available.

[@themidfier6591]

I'm sorry sir, there's a misunderstanding. Here I mean the loads are the batteries. When the generator charges the batteries, can you use the batteries to power electronic devices? So in this case, the batteries is charged and discharged at the same time, is it safe to do it so?

[@themidfier6591]

Also thank you for replying😊

[@GBear]

@@themidfier6591 You're welcome

[@GBear]

@themidfier6591 Yes. That is how an off grid system works. But the system should be properly balanced. The charge controller is essential, and a good one is a must. It controls the solar input to the batteries. If the batteries are full, the controller stops input, and as the batteries lower, the controller resumes input. In the case of a turbine, the charge only exists when wind is present at an adequate speed, so connecting to the batteries directly and using a dump load diverter is acceptable. Think of a car. If you run the radio, and lights without starting the car, the battery will die and you won't be able to start the engine. But, if you run the lights and radio and fan, etc. while driving, the alternator is charging the battery, and the regulator acts like a charge controller.

[@pandav4843]

thanks for video, how you connect the dump controller to the system, what is the schematic?

[@pkefvkef4856]

Dear G.Bear's Can you tell me a) The make of wind turbine is it KT5 SCAC12 ?? I want one for 48 volts dc. b) can you please tell me the brand of the rectifier 1000v peak. and the unit that coems with it 150A source . c) the brand of the PWM solar charge controller with the solenoid . Thanking you.......

[@GBear]

I'll check my records for all the information and get back to you.

[@ajeesh3485]

where to get used forklift batteries? is it recyclable? what about the weight?

[@GBear]

You'll have to google that question for your area. Yes, they sell recycled or refurbished batteries. They are lead acid batteries, very heavy, but very strong.

[@elfridacorp6224]

What about cost? How much did you pay for each part of the system

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! Those prices go back up to 8 years ago, so it would be misleading to use those now. I can tell you the Midnite Classic 150 controller was over $700, but worth every penny, as was the AIMS 4K split phase inverter. I paid $1300 for that and am glad I got rid of the cheap Chinese junk.

[@djkillachris]

Someone gave me a nice 24v wind turbine because they didn't know how to use it on their 12v boat system. I have a 12v sailboat with a 300ah lifep04 bank and a 300ah agm bank. They are independent of each other. Is it possible for me to use the wind turbine with either of my battery banks? I saw a wind mppt with a dump on Amazon but I'm not sure if it can take a 24v wind turbine and charge my batteries at 12v

[@GBear]

I wouldn't do it unless you switch the agm's to 24v. The turbine will produce enough power to fry your system. Also the Lifepo4's need different controllers.

[@djkillachris]

@@GBear the lifep04 batteries have their own individual bms systems that protect them from overcharging, overvoltage, overheat, reverse polarity and freezing temperature. But that doesn't mean that I can charge them with 24v. They wouldn't accept it. I was hoping to find a controller with a dump that could take in 24v and charge my 12v lifep04 batteries or my 12v agm batteries. I thought maybe a solar controller could work as they take in up to 100v then deliver the corresponding voltage to my 12v system but it wouldn't have fun with the fluctuations I'm guessing not to mention what would happen to the extra power. Some solar controllers have a direct power output that I could connect a hesting coil to but I'd also guess that those power outputs have a somewhat limited delivery amperage. We can't afford a quality wind turbine like the one we were given but we could afford some components to make it work if possible. If you have any ideas please let us know and thanks so much for your time to respond to us and making a great video. Take care!

[@GBear]

I can't be sure, but suspect Midnite Classic charge controller would work. They can be used for dedicated turbine controllers, and since you would connect the batteries first, the controller will set up for 12v charging. I don't see why a higher voltage input would be any problem, as I have a Midnite Classic 150 on my 12 volt battery bank, and have 24v solar panels connected in series for a 120v input. It works better than fine! I bought my MC150 on ebay, refurbished and saved a couple hundred dollars. I'll be getting another when the money is available and will take my turbine off of the dumpload circuit, because the Midnite Classic does the whole thing in the most efficient way, and I will get optimum output/input from my 1850w PMA.

[@johnwyman6126]

The far left green Chinese charge controller is made to be a wind and solar controller. I'm wondering why you are not using it as a wind controller also? Has it held up well?

[@GBear]

Welcome aboard! That controller is a small boat anchor. In other words, a piece of junk, just like the one next to it. Don't waste your money on hybrid controllers from China, as they are a joke. The best wind controller out there is a Midnite Classic, either the 150, 200, or 250. Note, that you can't connect wind AND solar to the Midnite at the same time. It's either, or.

[@johnwyman6126]

@@GBear have you tried the Xantrex c35 through C60 controllers? They are a little over $100 each.

[@GBear]

No, I haven't tried those. If there's one thing I learned about off grid solar, it's "you get what you pay for".