WINNEBAGO EKKO | NON-INSULATED COMPARTMENT | BROKEN WATER LINE FITTING | HOW TO CORRECT | 4 Season?

[@denisesims7574]

Thank you for showing how those areas are not protected from the cold. What you did should really make a difference! We placed a piece of ridged foam in the tray of the outside water compartment to help keep that warmer too.

[@ekkonesters599]

That’s a great idea too. Thank you for sharing and watching.

[@brucelester6918]

You are an excellent instructor/teacher! Thanks for the great video.

[@ekkonesters599]

Thank you Bruce the kind compliment. Very grateful for you taking time to watch our channel and leave a comment. I’m Al way looking for some new ideas, if you have anything you’d like to see let me know and I’ll do my best.

[@jeannineharris4449]

My husband and I are looking into Ekko. We are in Washington so we want something that will keep us warm. These are some really good tips!! Hopefully Winnebago will rethink with these problem areas!!

[@ekkonesters599]

Hello Jeannine, thank you very much for checking out our channel and subscribing. The echo definitely has a lot to offer. The EKKO travels well, provide confidence while on the road with the Ford AWD system, and has a lot creature comforts/amenities to add to the experience. Like any vehicle (RV) there is always something to improve upon. I do believe then pluses outweigh the negatives for sure. What’s nice is there is a strong EKKO community to lean on when questions arise. We are part of a FB group called Winnebago EKKO Free Speech. There are over 1k members and many regularly participate in tech tips, advice, travel tips, etc. Which I think adds some value and peace of mind knowing others are sharing similar interests and tips. Well, thank you again for joining us. I hope you find the vehicle that is best suited for the two of you. If you have any questions or thoughts, don’t hesitate to ask us. We enjoy sharing our information, tips, and advice.

[@ekkonesters599]

Did you end up making a purchase decision. Just checking in I’m always grateful when people leave comments and we get to share some EKKO stories. Hope you’re doing well.

[@jimgrier7869]

You’re very good at explaining things!

[@ekkonesters599]

Thank you very much Jim. Greatly appreciate the feed back as well as you taking time to watch our channel.

[@TEB64]

As I am preparing to buy a 2024 you have really helped me to better prepare my unit, and myself for winter success. I love being out in Mother Nature.

[@ekkonesters599]

That is great news. Are you picking up the Sprinter version or the Transit version? I definitely recommend insulating the compartment as shown. You will have to keep us posted on your purchase and adventures. Thank you very much for watching our KZbin channel and following along with us on our adventurers. Keep on EKKOing.

[@TEB64]

@@ekkonesters599 Going to get the Transit version, really didn't want to deal with the diesel issues. However, I "really like" the interior on the Sprinter version.

[@NealBritt]

Thanks for sharing! This is something we thought of immediately when we purchased our 23 Ekko. When we looked we actually had vents going into the rear of the water compartment for heat. No sure if it's a change on all 23s or if we just were lucky and someone at the factory went above and beyond. 😂 We also added wireless thermometers to a bunch of areas including the water compartment just to monitor things. Another thing was spraying bed liner on the wheel wells and lower portions of the rig. Not much insulation, but a little extra protection. We haven't dropped the video yet, but a few little extra piece of mind additions. After a month or so of monitoring temps our outside compartment stays about 10-12 degrees warmer than the interior of the rig when the Truma is on. Definitely surprised by that, but certainly a good thing.

[@ekkonesters599]

Thanks for the feedback. Yes we have a vent in our water compartment. The area where all the control valves are. But just as you pointed out and we were discussing in the video that is only as effective as when you are in the EKKO and running the Truma heating system. Outside of that when the vehicle is parked in the temperature drops below zero, and there is any water left in any of the horizontal water lines. Then the lines and fittings are definitely more susceptible to freezing expanding with the water and breaking. One of the concerns that I have is when I was repairing the leak, I immediately noticed that the plastic fittings that Winnebago chose to use, were very cheap and of what I would consider poor quality. I reference this from being in the Construction trade for almost 20 years and knowing the difference between a quality PEX fitting and one that was definitely selected of lesser quality. When I needed the part, I went to Curtis trailers which does not sell EKKO‘s, or Winnebago product, but the fitting was a universal that is used throughout the RV industry. Important to note these fittings are not the same as the ones that you would pick up at Home Depot for a residential application. The fitting that was sold to me by Curtis trailers immediately felt heavier and the side walls were thicker. I did have some really cool video of the whole process, but my phone decided to delete all of my albums. So I’ve lost some really good information. Thanks again for watching and sharing. We can’t wait to hear about your Starlink insight.

[@dannyfromquebec7750]

OMG. For the price the Ekko sells .. seeing how poorly they insulate such critical areas !!?? I wouldn't buy one .. . you provide people with good information thanks for sharing. keep up the good work

[@ekkonesters599]

Thank you for watching our videos and checking out our KZbin channel. We appreciate the feedback.

[@paulsullivan3419]

Thanks, I’ve been down this rabbit hole and you’ve expounded upon and validated my thinking

[@ekkonesters599]

Greatly appreciate your support in watching our channel and taking time to leave a comment.

[@jamesmohr1356]

Great video. Retired plumber here. You must be very careful when insulating around pipes not to have insulation in between the pipe and its source of heat, or the pipes will freeze.

[@ekkonesters599]

Circulation is also key, I agree. In this case Winnebago, seems to have not thought about this need. The only source of heat is what escapes from the interior space of the EKKO “when the Truma Heater is on” which is when parked. Freezing seems to be an issue when parked without heat and just a little water left in the lines (horizontal lines and fitting). I haven’t blown compressed air in the passed because this needs to be carefully regulated. I also found that the plastic elbows and T-fittings appear to be poor quality. I base this in two factors. My experience with a quality PEX fitting (trade I’m in) and the fact that when I went to get a replacement from the Curtis Trailer (local dealer) the replacement part was superior in quality just by. Weight and feel. Thank you for sharing and watching our video.

[@jamesmohr1356]

@E K K O n e s t e r s the best fittings for pex imo are uponor.

[@johnevans266]

Don’t be afraid to use compressed air, just make sure you have a compressor with a limiter. Water also has pressure and I use a pressure regulator when hooking up to water. When driving I turn on the fan and that helps circulate the hot air the chassis is making throughout the coach and outer compartments. That plus the anti-freeze kit for the aqua go has allowed us to drive in temps in the teens with no issues.

[@johnwilliamson9453]

Just a fabulous DIY vlog! Very well articulated and the videography also was well executed. BTW, I love rockwool for the reasons you mentioned and good material selection for the job at hand. Not that there's any R value, but have you considered using a spray on insulation on the wheel well liners? I believe LTV uses a spray insulation on the outside of the cabinets/boxes on their coaches. They tout that it keeps noise down and protects from rocks being thrown up. You're an invaluable source of information for the EKKO community...keep up the good work!

[@ekkonesters599]

Hello John, thank you for the support and kind words. I’ll have to do some research in respect to the spray on insulation. It seems like an option, but I’m curious about the long term wear/tear. I’ve got a few ideas but need to do some additional research. Thank you again for watching our channel.

[@edl5731]

Couple of thoughts: (1) The insulation between outside wall and plumbing makes sense. But why add insulation between plumbing and interior walls? Yeah, that will cut down on drafts, but won't it also reduce the amount of warmth flowing from the inside the coach to the water lines. If anything I would think you would be better off adding vents to increase the flow of warm air from the coach to water lines. (2) Have you considered adding wireless thermometers and/or 12 volt electric heaters to the vulnerable areas?

[@ekkonesters599]

Hello Ed, first I want to thank you for watching our channel and being a part of our adventures. The reason that I chose to put the insulation between the plumbing lines was based on the times that I have the vehicle parked station area and the temperature drops below freezing for several days. During these times, I am not accessing the vehicle and respect to running a heating system on a 24 hour basis, per se. The last time I let the vehicle sit for 24 hours in the temperature dropped into the 20s, one of the plastic water line fittings sprung a crack/leak in the manufactures casting seam which was a weak point. As I open things up and begin to make the repairs, I also realize that Winnebago chose to use some very cheap waterline fittings. I was impressed with the waterlines themselves, but not the fittings. When I went to get a replacement part from a local travel, trailer distributor, immediately the quality of the fittings that I received through the trailer manufacturer were a better quality. Given that that compartment does not have a heat source unless you are parked and using your Truma water heater, it in my opinion is vulnerable. Arguably the heat vent that goes to that space prevents these things from happening but again only when the vehicle is parked in your using the Truma heating system. The vehicles main heating system does not contribute any heating resource to the back of the EKKO. Also another place to consider insulating is underneath the bench seat of the pre-2023 model years. This is where the Goepper pump that pumps drainage water to the holding tank exist. There is always some small amount of water in that pump and I have had that water freeze as well. I was fortunate that the pump did not break. Not to mention the main water pump has froze on me as well. Now I’m sure arguably somebody would tell me to run compressed air through my waterlines, but that needs to be carefully done and regulated. Otherwise you can cause damage to other components such as the water pump and the golfer pump. Thank you for your input and feedback and greatly appreciate you following along.

[@BobPebly]

Agree with Ed re: the interior insulation. The entire water panel area (front & rear below that metal plate) is part of the heated envelope. By overstuffing with insulation internally, you're blocking circulation of heated air around the tanks, hoses & fittings. The focus should be on insulating between the exterior/interior without blocking internal airflow. Also, an interesting note, my EKKO did have a (albeit thin) layer of insulation in the bottom of the water pump compartment over that plastic wheel well.

[@ekkonesters599]

@@BobPebly Hello Bob I have a reply, come but I’m going to share the links that provide detailed and accurate I Fortino respect to where the hearing sects are and how the holding tanks obtain circulated air.

[@ekkonesters599]

@@BobPebly www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Resources/Diagram/2021/000206797.pdf

[@ekkonesters599]

Heating system catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/2021/341165.htm

[@J_P_N_W]

Great video! I'm sure that I can implement some of this into my drafty 3 season travel trailer to help get through the colder temps. Thanks Jason! 🍻

[@ekkonesters599]

Thanks for the feedback. I’m not super familiar with the construction of pull behind units, but I’d be willing to believe that there are a few areas you could immediately address. 1. Lower body panels: anywhere that a panel is secured with screws would be a point of inspection for insulation needs 2. I’d also pull drawers, (kitchen, bedroom, etc.) All internal side of the exterior walls there is typically a space. Behind the drawers there will be enough room where you could potentially insulate with an dense rigid sheet insulation. 3. Outside compartment storage areas usually have “buckets” that are held by screws these “buckets” the inside cavity if removable will have voids that can be improved as well. This of course is just my opinion but worth a few hours to check out. Happy Travels. We hope to see you out on the road sometime enjoying the beauty that this planet has.

[@richardburguillos3118]

Great video. Looks like some great comments to read through as well. PLEASE follow up after a cold weather outing to let us know how it worked. BTW: wile driving, you could keep the house heater on “fan” mode and circulate air into those compartments without having the gas on. Also, if extreme cold is a concern, I assume an electric heater and keeping the house inverter / power on while driving is ok? That and the heaters fan circulating air into the compartments should help. Really appreciate your videos and I’m coming to have to read through the comments one. Thanks!

[@ekkonesters599]

Hello Richard, thank you for the compliment. The insulation did improve the sleeping area on the driver side. Although the wall itself was still cold (to be expected) I think there is only around R-7 values, there was no longer a cold zone or feel of draft between the wall and mattress leading to the bed platform. Also, the wall itself did not have any condensation and the mattress remained dry. My thought is the cold air/lower temperatures that would have pulled from the thin layer of plastic that separates the water compartment as well as the fender well from the interior cab was interrupted by the added Roxul. In return reduced the ability to create condensation since cold and hot could not mix. The window(s) were also condensation free and not pooling water around the upper and lower areas. Circulation of air: I wasn’t concerned about the air circulating while driving or heat while driving. My concern was to eliminate the cold zone on the driver side while either stored or stationary and while parked. Although, the outside compartment where the control valves are located, so in fact have a vent, the vent is only useful when there is heat circulating. If the vehicle is stored, or left unattended for some period of time, and the temperature drops, that is when the water lines to sit behind the metal panel underneath the bed tray experience the opportunity to freeze. Which did happen to us and during my repair, drew my attention to this areas. I’m told on the 2023’s, when you open up that compartment door on the very bottom where the drain pipes come through and there is a compartment you can open to attach your gray water drain, Winnebago introduced some piece of insulation there. I am also told just about the internal fender well where the thin layer of plastic is received some insulation as well. Maybe Winnebago realized there is an issue. Otherwise my guess is they would not have put any resources into correcting this. Winnebago marketed the EKKO as 4 season, I would have expected that more insulation factors would be considered. Also, Winnebago as I recall marketed that no water lines and or holding tanks were exposed or open to cold zones. I disagree. If Winnebagos argument is that they put plastic or any type of barrier between a waterline and a holding tank, and that creates a non-exposed waterline then I guess by definition, it’s correct. But by definition of actual Fourseason protection, and reducing the risk of freezing, and they are wrong because it happened to me. One could definitely use an electric heater while driving, and that would definitely aid in keeping the we were area warmer, especially when you arrive at your destination, the temperature would be immediately warmer and reduce the time it takes to warm things up. Thank you very much again for watching our videos. Yes, we are very fortunate that we have an amazing audience. I’ve learned a lot from people like you and many others and I’ve been able to share in some intellectual dialogue. Wishing you the best and happy travels ahead, Richard.

[@richardburguillos3118]

@@ekkonesters599 all good stuff. Sorry for not being clearer. I liked all that you did and would do the same. I was just mentioning that I have read how others have kept the garage and water closet warm air flowing. I also plan on looking into the areas you covered and adding additional insulation. I thought I remember reading that there was a theory that the drivers side wall might be getting colder due to the extra metal in the wall for the Batwing Awning. That extra metal creating a thermal bridge between the outside and inside. I have not looked into the location or size of the Batwing mounting locations. Great update on your findings this far with the added insulation. I also agree that Winnebago fell short in this area making it a true four season rig. The lack inf insulation at the bottom was of that area jumped out at me and I was also planning on seeing what it could add there that might be easily removed for dumping and put back in place afterwards. I agree with all you have said. Again, great video.

[@ekkonesters599]

@@richardburguillos3118 hello Richard, great feedback. Yes, you’re correct James with FIT RV shared some thoughts and concerns about how the batwing could be creating a bridge between the external and internal thermal aspects. While I can see and agree with the theory and strongly believe that there is some measurement within that. I would also venture to say that all of the metal framing would play some role. I found something interesting. One day it was extremely cold. In our Bad Betty was parked in the driveway. I could see the frame/silhouette of the EKKO through the exterior walls. Not the actual metal of course, but the framing. I wish I’d taken a photo. It’s always good chatting with you my friend. I hope you and your family are well. Take care.

[@richardburguillos3118]

@@ekkonesters599 I have actually seen a photo of the EKKO showing on a cold day how the moisture condensed on the exterior outlining the metal framing. As good as the EKKO walls are claimed to be, that is one weakness in their design. If that framing contacts the exterior and interior walls, then you have a thermal bridge that will transmit the outside conditions to the inside. But heck, I still can’t wait to get our EKKO.

[@ekkonesters599]

@@richardburguillos3118 I still think it’s totally worth it, our love for the adventures, the comforts of the EKKO and all the joy it brings outweigh any of the little issues.

[@scp8412]

Great troubleshooting and diagnostic !

[@ekkonesters599]

Thank you very much. I’m grateful to hear that you enjoyed the video. Also, thank you for following along with our KZbin channel. Hope you’re doing well

[@danieltaylor3396]

I just watched this video for a second time and learned a bunch more. One thing that I noticed is that the heating duct in the water closet is set up so the heat comes out of the vent, aimed at the inside of the water closet door, essentially directing heat away from the plumbing on the back side of that panel that holds all the levers. This panel sort of divides the water closet in half. What if a few holes were punched in the heating duct before it passes thru this panel? Heat would then be directed straight up at the plumbing where it is most needed, creating a more efficient use of the heat. I am going to try this when I get my EKKO....I wish I could give this video a second "like".

[@ekkonesters599]

Wow, that’s actually a great idea. I imagine if you drill precise holes he would be onto something and you’re right the amount of air that needs to go into the outside compartment where the door has 2 inches of insulation is far less crucial then what has to occur on that other area just my opinion

[@ekkonesters599]

Thanks very much for sharing your insight and input. I’ve got a couple ideas coming up for this in the future. It’s nice to get some good feedback from people. We really appreciate you subscribe to our channel.

[@danieltaylor3396]

What a fantastic detailed video. I do not yet have my EKKO but I was thinking that it would need some beefed up insulation for my intended use as a ski chalet in British Columbia, Canada. Now I know where to start. I was thinking of adding a little less insulation to the water compartment but then adding a small electric heater when parked with shore power. I realize one can't run the water heater when traveling, but why not run the propane furnace when traveling as unlike the water heater, it shouldn't have a problem blowing out the flame when in motion, or does it? Also why are those cabinet covers made of metal?

[@ekkonesters599]

Hello Daniel, thank you for the feedback and especially taking time to watch our channel and subscribe if you have. I’m not a fan of running any of the propane items while traveling. The only reason that I draw concern to this, is that I think of the vehicle being almost in a hostile environment when it’s traveling down the road and there’s so much more movement and consideration for things bending and flexing. My thought is that if one of the propane lines sprung a leak and I was driving I would more than likely not be immediately aware if this. I have heard of people having a completely different opinion on this and choosing to travel with the propane tanks running heating systems. I admittedly would say that I’ve traveled a couple miles in the past and forgot to shut my system off, and nothing happened. As for the metal tray, that is a very good question. The only thing that I can think of is it was to reduce weight. I’m sure that it was pretty cheap to manufacture and provided the illusion of a space to store small items. I’m not sure if you are on FB or not, but I am on a group called Winnebago EKKO Free Speech and we are encouraging EKKO owners and dealers to share information, experience, tips, etc. what’s nice is it’s a public group so you don’t have register and you can drop in and out as needed to learn things. Maybe I’ll see you on the group site. Wishing you safe travels and thanks again for sharing in our adventure. One of the other subscribers mentioned, cutting out a rigid piece of insulation and placing it on the bottom tray of the water compartment. I think I’m going to do that.

[@atomicorang]

Great modification. Thanks for sharing.

[@ekkonesters599]

Thank you. It works!

[@tomgibson5347]

Thank you for this insulation idea. I am certain it will help with humidity challenges as well. We like the magnetic strip (noticed in another video)next to your sink and wanted to ask where you got it.

[@ekkonesters599]

Hi Tom, I hope you’re having a great day. There are two places you can pick up that magnetic strip that holds the spices and knives. I’ll put one of the links in my description from Amazon. The other place is IKEA

[@randycurry]

Thanks for the tips! Be well out there!

[@ekkonesters599]

Thank you for the comments and watching our channel. Owning one of these provides a lot of opportunities to share in information and experiences.

[@40gritgarage67]

Very nice advice! Something I may look into in the future. But, are you aware the all the cabinet doors are removable? They pop off in seconds and that allows for way more space to work!

[@ekkonesters599]

Hello, you are 100% on the doors. I should have remembered this. Thank you for the reminder. I don’t know if you read some of the other comments, but I gave a pretty lengthy explanation, including two links to add some further understanding and validity to the Insulation need. If you check out the two links in one of the threads, it gives you a very good schematic of the plumbing as well as the heating duct layout.

[@cindys9649]

Hi Jason, another awesome video! We are getting ready to do this tomorrow as our temps in Eugene are dropping into the 20s! (Not quite Cabo!) Before we donate the Rockwool, is there any other areas we should use it in? Thanks! Cindy

[@ekkonesters599]

Did you put it on the passenger side as well, under the other metal tray? Also The water pump cabinet on the driver side around the lines by the shower will be good too.

[@cindys9649]

Thanks! Started to do this today. Got the metal tray out on the drivers side. We had the heat set on 60 for the project (it’s cold here!) When I started to put my first piece in, I noticed it was quite toasty. Looked down and the flexible heat duct was completely unattached from the pipe! Ugh! One more call we need to make! BUT……I came up with a little trick so you don’t have to unhook the hydraulic arm on the right side. I can share later!@@ekkonesters599

[@cindys9649]

Hi! I thought I had responded to this but don’t see my response (weird!). Anyway, YES we plan to do all 3 compartments. Tried to do it today but when we took out the metal tray we could see when the flexible heating duct wasn’t even attached to the pipe and the air was all blowing into that compartment. Ugh. Another call to the dealer! On a high note, I figure out a trick so you don’t have to unhook the hydraulic arm on driver’s side bed to get the metal tray back in!!!@@ekkonesters599

[@Ekkofan]

Have you produced a video on your approach to levelling Bad Betty when you are setting up camp?

[@ekkonesters599]

No but that would be a great idea for sure. Thank you for the suggestion and for checking out our channel.

[@Ekkofan]

Considering the additional cold transfer created by the metal plate supporting the batwing awning, would you reconsider this option?

[@ekkonesters599]

Great question: I’ve spoke to a few others about this and what I was told is that they still experienced the same thing with the batwing awning delete. But to answer your question, I would probably still do this. Especially now that I have the Roam Reat Mattress. No longer really concerned about condensation wicking into the new design.

[@Ekkofan]

Do you think that additional isolation could be added to the walls and the windows (similar to what is used to isolate the cab from the living area) for the colder temperature to lower condensation?

[@gerrypolinsky3305]

I am wondering if, when your pex joints cracked you had either the heat or hot water heater on? When I'm actually driving, I keep the heating system set to "vent" so that coach hot air runs through pipes and also use a Truma Anti Freeze kit. Am not sure about the kit's black magic but hear something that sounds like a pump running continuously when it's on. I'll call Truma to confirm but assume that the hot water is being pumped through the entire circulatory system. If so, these lines should not be buried in insulation as they would serve to heat the cold water lines and the water tanks that are under the steps. Tanks are otherwise unprotected. The insulation you put around compartment areas adjacent to wheel well and bottom of the water compartment, makes lots of sense.

[@ekkonesters599]

Hello Gerry, thanks for taking time to watch the video and provide some suggestions. To answer your first question, the vehicle was stored in my driveway, and at the time I had no heating systems or circulation of any water. The vehicle was stored with all systems turned off. Well, I can take him to consideration your idea that the hot waterlines are going to serve to protect and or heat the cold water lines, I’m going to keep my trust in the ROXUL Insulation. We have already camped in temperatures well below those that we experienced during the first incident and have also had the vehicle stored at temperatures below that of what the first incident resulted in so far Insulation has been successful. Part of the problem that I discovered, at least, in my opinion, is when you open the compartment door to where all of the water control valves are, driver side, There is a plastic/fiberglass floor pan where the waterlines were draining. Exit as well as the gray water connection point is located. That is a very thin piece of material. Which then argues the point that that compartment is part of the four season insulation value of the vehicle. Directly above the plastic bottom, minor are all of the exposed pecks lines. As you’re facing the compartment door and it’s open, you can reach your hand underneath the white plastic panel or all of the lower drain valves are in fill all the fittings and pecks lines. In my opinion, it’s simply an area that could be addressed differently. thank you very much for sharing your thoughts. Wishing you safe and happy travels. I hope you’re doing well.

[@derekwilson580]

Wondering if you have to do the same upgrade on the new Sprekko?

[@ekkonesters599]

@@derekwilson580 Yes as Incan tell, that is my plan for sure.

[@rubenduran4]

Thank you

[@Ekkofan]

In your video, you are mentioning that the compartments are not heated when you are driving, only at destination. Some water lines (wet bay) and pumps (shower) are in compartments. Are you winterizing them while you are driving?

[@ekkonesters599]

Hello, thanks for reaching out. I apologize for the delay in responding. No, we haven’t had to so far.

[@Ekkofan]

At what exterior temperature do you see condensation building? We are based in Canada and are planning to use the Ekko during the winter months.

[@ekkonesters599]

That’s a great question and one that definitely leads to a few thoughts. We have noticed that as the temperatures fall, and we are occupying the EKKO (without ventilation) like the Max Air fan being on at least 10%, condensation appear on walls and windows. Typically once the temperature dips below 50 degrees. What contributes to this is activities like cooking and showering can significantly elevate indoor condensation levels during winter. One of the best ways to ensure optimal comfort, is to try and maintain humidity levels in your between 30% and 50% throughout both winter and summer seasons. One last thought though, ever sense we started leaving the Max air fan on the lowest setting and sometimes just open, the condensation within the main area and sleeping quarters has significantly dropped and is almost unnoticeable. We also use a couple of small rechargeable dehumidifier canisters. I have an Amazon link for these. Primary you’ll notice it in the cab area but that is to be expected. Let me know if this helps.

[@_damdifino]

Isn't it true that when you compress insulation it loses R value? Maybe that's not true with this rockwool.

[@ekkonesters599]

Hello Brian, Thanks for reaching out to us and watching our video. That’s a very good question. I know by rule of thumb that fiberglass insulation loses its R-value as it’s compressed. However, my understanding, and please don’t quote me on this rock wool/RoXUL, doesn’t loose it as much. Example R-value of fiberglass is about 2 1/5 to 2 7/10 per inch while Rockwool is 3 to 3 1/3 per inch. My understanding is that you don’t lose as much R-value with compressed RoXUL. I’ve heard one argument that compressing that increases the density and actually increases our value but I need to look into this. Do you have a great question and I want to find a good answer I’ll keep you posted as I discover. However, in this case, I think that what I was trying to accomplish with the void will be fine based on, the need. But if I was working on a home, I definitely would take the compressed factor into the equation.

[@DanJohnston-li1ni]

Good times in Sand Point.

[@maoss40]

My ekko still in the shop for recalls (2 months already), they called me yesterday saids my water pump and water heater is damaged by the cold, which is not covered by warranty. I told him don't fix, I will fix my self, I want see what happened

[@ekkonesters599]

Did they say what’s was wrong with the water heater? The Truma is typically protected by a filter cartridge that has a engineered blow out plug. In the event that it freezes, the plug releases. You’ll know this if you turn on the “pump” (assuming you can get that to activate), the water will pour out of the yellow drop down handle where’s the cartridge is located. Outside of the vehicle. I have a video on this. Let me know if I can help answer any questions.

[@maoss40]

@@ekkonesters599 inside the filter is broken, easy replace, but he also saids somewhere too but didn't say where, he ask me to call Winnebago, I said I will the RV back so I can look at what is wrong first, he just said weather damaged heater

[@ekkonesters599]

@@maoss40 hey once you find some things out, I can give you my email address and if you wanna shoot me a little video or some information I’d be happy to give you my input. Especially as a fellow EKKO Owner.

[@maoss40]

@@ekkonesters599 will do, thanks

[@gandalf6223]

Disappointing that Winnebago went to so many measures to insulate the Ekko and then left these areas with glaring lack of insulation.

[@ekkonesters599]

I agree Mike. I’ve found a lot of things like this where Winnebago could have considered a few more things. Especially when they are advertising it as a 4 season. Yes, technically it is a four season by many definitions, but when I think of a Fourseason, I think of a vehicle that can sit in reasonably cold weather not the Arctic obviously, but be able to manage itself an occupied. One of the big things they talk about is how the holding tanks and waterlines are not exposed underneath the vehicle and protected. I found that to be somewhat in accurate especially in this compartment. I was always wondering why it was extra cold on the driver side bed and drafty. Then I realized that the compartment was completely on insulated and unprotected. There’s even a lip that crosses over the metal separation between the water valves and the internal part of the Coach that has zero insulation. The plastic compartment base is nothing but an opportunity to allow for issues as well. Thank you very much for watching our video and sharing. We are truly grateful.

[@danieltaylor3396]

@@ekkonesters599 According to James of The Fit RV, the cold temp by the driver side bed is due to a plate buried inside the wall that the Bat Wing awning is mounted to. I think both you guys are correct but it seems to me that a lack of insulation in the water compartment and the metal "lid" are the biggest culprits. I already have a small Honeywell electric heater, 170/250 watt, (still waiting for the EKKO to arrive) that I will be mounting in the water closet, as well as attaching insulation to the underside of the water closet metal top access panel that is under the bed.

[@ekkonesters599]

@@danieltaylor3396 i definitely think there is potentially two issues. One the wall, but the second the compartment we are discussing. Especially considering that I have been told by 2023 Winnebago Ekko owners that Winnebago offered some form of insulation for the bottom of the compartment tray which tells me they are aware of the issue. My understanding is that the The roof is 3-inch foam insulation and has an insulation R-value of 14.7. The walls and the floor are around 7 on average. Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts.

[@macofdow]

Could you just make the notch in the pan slightly larger? Dremel….