Winter Climbing - Transition from Soloing the apron into climbing

[@user-dg9ti5gq4e]

Cheers guys. Consider myself pretty competent but always watch these videos anyway incase I can pick anything up

[@SeekOutTheAdventure]

I noticed that you attached your belay device to the rope loop and not your belay loop. Why?

[@AlHalewood]

Common in UK Trad. Since we often include a good amount of rope in the anchor system clipping the plate into the belay loop means some load bypassing the climbers harness and body and being taken through the rope and by the anchors. Some of the load is still absorbed by the climbers position and body though. Its less common to always belay direct over here as we are less likely to be belaying off of 200% bomber anchors like bolts, especially in winter. This article explains more about what I mean (N.B. its not necessarily an either/or thing, more a 'be aware' and make a choice thing): www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/belaying_-_rope_loop_or_belay_loop-1129

[@SeekOutTheAdventure]

@@AlHalewood I see. that makes sense.

[@nigg2811]

Regarding the final comment in the video (4.40) I think the main reason for getting the first runner in as soon as possible is to avoid a factor 2 fall, it's not about 'not shock-loading the belay'. But good video... thanks!