Winwick Mum Sockalong - Sock Stitch Calculation

[@alexandriasimms4842]

I can't thank you enough for all the time, effort and detail you have put into these tutorials. I came across your blog posts (sock-a-long) and they have saved me such frustration and given me the confidence I need to make basic changes to my current sock pattern. Believe me, I searched high and low and could not find such information online (for free at that). I have added both your books to my Christmas wishlist!

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Oh that's wonderful to hear, I'm so glad I've been able to help! Here's to lots of pairs of socks in your future! 😀 xx

[@catherinekhalili4412]

That’s the best explanation I’ve seen so far! Thanks!

[@WinwickMumsocks]

I'm glad it's helped you, thank you! 😀

[@cleoklobucher3062]

Thank you so much for this video, it help out so much.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

You're very welcome, I really glad it helps! 😀

[@Xx_Lara2323_xX]

Thank you!

[@WinwickMumsocks]

I'm glad it helped you! 😀

[@JeniHankins]

Thank you SO MUCH for this brilliant tutorial! I've made a pair of socks exactly following the instructions of the kit I bought and they came out great. BUT I really want to know how to use the yarn I already have to make socks. AND I want to knit knee socks. So, this prepares me perfectly your knee sock pattern. AND I love the way you did your swatch. Many smiles!

[@WinwickMumsocks]

I am delighted that I've been able to help you - and that your first pair of socks turned out so well! Here's to many more pairs! 😀

[@QueenBaha]

🌴☀️ ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT, 💐thank you so much ☀️🌴

[@WinwickMumsocks]

I'm so glad it's helped you, thank you! 😀

[@tds603]

Extremely helpful! I was hesitant to make socks because I did not want to spend time knitting socks that wouldn't fit but this has taken the guesswork out of it. Now I will be able to knit socks for my entire family. Thank you very much!

[@WinwickMumsocks]

You are so welcome! One of the joys of hand knit socks is how well they can fit so I hope this works brilliantly for you! 😀

[@themtnbiker]

Looking forward to someday knitting some socks. I learned of your blog/videos from a post in a knitting group I joined. Thank you for your clear and easy to follow instructions.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

That's brilliant to hear - I hope you get on very well with your socks! 😀

[@Knitterbug]

This was exactly what I was looking for!! Thank you for such a detailed yet concise explanation of knitting to fit.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

I'm so glad I could help! I hope you have the best-fitting socks now! 😀

[@eszterreilly7757]

You did it so I understand thank you

[@WinwickMumsocks]

That's wonderful, I'm so glad I could help! 😀

[@evelyndavis5999]

This is very good info .

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Thank you, I'm glad it's helped you! 😀

[@tyannthomas1162]

Thank you I got so worried that I started this sock to small but doing your method here I picked the perfect size for myself I will be using this as a guide from here on out!!

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Oh I'm so pleased it helped you! 😀

[@thadisbostock3196]

Thank you so much you explained it so well.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Thank you, I'm so glad you found it helpful! 😊

[@slkzil]

Oh Thank you! Just what I was looking for. All my socks do not fit me. Too wide. Now I will watch and learn, how to change the pattern, to get there…greetings from Oklahoma

[@WinwickMumsocks]

I'm sure this will make a huge difference to how your socks fit! 😀

[@sandi5276]

thank you!

[@louiseberesford5203]

Thank you for your tutorials, I’ve successfully almost completed my first sock with the help of you and the crazy sock lady! I was wondered if this calculation would work all the way down to child sizes? My 5 year old would like his first pair.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Yes, it absolutely would! If you can get him to stand still long enough to measure the circumference of his foot then you'll be able to use the calculation for a small sock - use the sock you're working on as your swatch if you haven't done one already. Don't be surprised if the cast on number is bigger than you were expecting - children's feet are not always as small as we might think! 😀 Well done on nearly finishing your first sock, it's a great feeling, isn't it?

[@louiseberesford5203]

@@WinwickMumsocks It is a great feeling, I’m completely hooked! I’m 2 pairs in now, gifted my second to my mom and she loved them! Thank you so much, I think I have calculated it correctly to cast on 44 stitches so we shall see if they work out ok.

[@suenightingale1406]

Thank you for the calculation information. It is easy to understand and very much appreciated. I'm wondering what to do about knitting socks that have a normal cuff and leg, but have a high instep and and very slim foot. My first thoughts are to switch to a smaller needle for the foot and/or continue to gusset decreases a few more times, and wondered what you would recommend. I'm knitting patterned socks with a repeat pattern of 7 stitches. It runs under the sole, so I was thinking of changing that to plain stockinette. Thank you.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Usually for a high instep I would recommend a longer heel flap which creates a longer gusset and makes the sock easier to get on and off. Do you know if the foot is going to be much too big for the sock wearer? If it's only 4 stitches then I might be tempted to leave it, although more than that and you might need a plan! I don't tend to carry patterns under the foot as plain knit is usually more comfortable to wear, but if you're knitting a colourwork sock then it might spoil the overall look. You could switch to a smaller needle rather than reduce stitches but you'd have to be careful that your knitted fabric didn't become too tight, especially if you are working with more than one colour. I hope that helps! 😀

[@suenightingale1406]

@@WinwickMumsocksit does, and gives me some good options. Thanks for the quick response. The person I'm knitting for has a slim foot between the start of the arch and ball of the foot. I'm knitting a cabled sock, so I like your idea of omitting the pattern under the foot. Many thanks 😊

[@WinwickMumsocks]

@@suenightingale1406 Don't forget that cables can pull fabric in too, so if you knit plain underneath the foot you may find that you can adjust the pattern quite naturally to make the foot slimmer 😀

[@suenightingale1406]

@@WinwickMumsocksI'm going to do a test sock, a Frankenstein swatch as I call it, taking in all the very helpful advice you have provided. Much appreciated, thank you 🙏 Have a lovely day xx

[@wali16062]

Good work dear - keep connected and make more and more videos

[@amberm4181]

Thank you!

[@WinwickMumsocks]

You're very welcome 😀

[@judithcarter7898]

When measuring around the ball of your foot do you measure while standing on your foot or while sitting down, with no weight on your foot? I’ve always wondered which way to do it because there is a difference in the measurements. Thankyou for your wonderful podcast!

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Yes, you should always stand up because then your foot is pushed out to its fullest extent so you'll be knitting a sock for the biggest size your foot is going to be 😀

[@Itiswhatitis55]

Thank you so much for this video. I am going to knit a pair of socks for my daughter-in-law and I have been struggling with how to determine the number of stitches to cast on....now I know what to do! This has been very helpful!

[@WinwickMumsocks]

I'm so glad it's helped! 😀

[@wendymontgomery6204]

Thank you very much. You're fantastic.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Ah, thank you! X

[@bsfb3ar]

hanks for your advice.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

You're very welcome 😀

[@MeiLouPhotography]

Hey this tutorial and your website are brilliant. Just one question, do you not block your swatch to make sure that once even with the socks washed often they will still be at the right size?

[@WinwickMumsocks]

No, I don't tend to do that as I found (way before I wrote this tutorial) that the number of stitches per inch didn't really change even after washing. The length will change slightly over time but not much - I usually recommend adding maybe two or three extra rounds to accommodate that but generally, I've found that sock yarn tends to stay at the size that you swatch at. I even wash mine in the washing machine (wool wash only, gentle spin, re-shape and dry flat) and I haven't had a problem at all. If you're worried, though, I would definitely try washing your swatch to see what happens! 😀 xx

[@MeiLouPhotography]

Thank you so much for your quick and detailed answer!! x @@WinwickMumsocks

[@Kaileynorriscreates]

Thanks!

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Thank you too! I hope the Calculation helps you to knit lots of different-sized socks! 😀 xx

[@Kaileynorriscreates]

I have some questions about negative ease when it comes to the length of the sock from toe to the beginning of the heel. Is the general rule 10% negative ease?

[@WinwickMumsocks]

@@Kaileynorriscreates I don't usually apply negative ease to the length of the sock, only the width. If you make your socks too short, they will pull the heel under your foot and be uncomfortable to wear so it's better to make them the length of your foot.

[@alexandriasimms4842]

Hi there! Could I trouble you for a bit more help? My calf and leg fit just fine but after trying in the sock I see that the ankle area is a little loose. Is there a way to fix that moving forward?

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Hand knitted socks don't tend to be tight around the ankle so it could be that it's just something different to your usual socks. If it's really too loose, you could decrease stitches but you'd need to adjust the heel flap number and then make sure that you decreased to the right number on your gusset. Alternatively, you could work a ribbed section around the ankle and that would pull it in tighter. I thought mine were too baggy when I first wore them until I realised that hand knits are just different to bought socks and now I wouldn't go back. I'd recommend wearing your socks for a while before deciding on adjustments and then when you've done that, you should be able to see what changes you might want to make. Hope that helps!

[@alexandriasimms4842]

Thank you so much for your help.

[@joankeckstein4246]

Is there a video that shows how to do the heel on the teeny tiny sock starting at row 7?

[@WinwickMumsocks]

I haven't made one but there will be videos for this - it's a short row heel and the technique of picking up the bar to make a new stitch is quite widely used. You should find help for this on KZbin if you search for short row heel techniques. Hope that helps!

[@bsfb3ar]

I not hat some tutorial do the longTail can on for he socks should one need o do German cast on in order to reach? 2nd what if I used a silk yarn. Do I alway surf even numbers? When I separate into 3 parts for starting the heel of the foot is the flap parts always have to be double the stitches of the other 2 pars is that a general rule ? Thanks

[@WinwickMumsocks]

You can use any cast on that you like as long as it's stretchy, and if you think it might be a bit tight then either use a bigger needle to cast on or cast on over two needles held together. Silk yarn should be fine to use for socks although it will depend on the blend. Silk can be used as a replacement for nylon but it might wear through a little faster. The heel flap should always be half the number of stitches that you originally cast on. I hope that helps! 😀

[@grahamlewis6062]

What fun that I’ve found your KZbin. 🌟Ive subscribed!! 👍I’ve been wanting to knit socks ever since I bought a pair from a narrowboater years ago and they’re SO comfy. I’ve been just doing ordinary knitting but now REALLY want to do socks and found this link via Black sheeps Woolshop Culceth. Sadly they don’t do a workshop so I’m going to have a go useing your tutorial vlog and some oddments, hopefully progressing to what looks like a terrific book. I don’t do instagram so this is so very helpful. Joan - Wigan I’d love to know if you do any workshops your signature colour yarns are beautiful

[@WinwickMumsocks]

My Winwick Mum Sockalong tutorials will talk you through everything you need to know to knit a pair of socks, and you've already found the Sock Stitch Calculation so you'll be able to turn your "ordinary knitting" into socks in no time! You can find the tutorials and Basic 4ply Socks pattern here : www.winwickmum.co.uk/sockalong 😀

[@grahamlewis6062]

Many thanks Christine. Yes thank you for your free pattern it has been downloaded so I’m on the way! At the moment I have no 4 ply so I’m going to play with some DK and the only circular needle in my box 4mm. At least the stitches should be large enough to see! 😄.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

@@grahamlewis6062 There's a Basic DK Socks pattern on my blog (www.winwickmum.co.uk/patterns-and-printables) which you can use instead of the Basic 4ply one with the same tutorials - just change the numbers in the tutorials to match the pattern 😀

[@grahamlewis6062]

@@WinwickMumsocks ooh thanks. I’m off to have a look I’m getting no housework done just looking at sock and Narrowboat stuff Ono my iPad😄. Let’s see what ‘the changes’ involve!! 😆. Joan

[@grahamlewis6062]

@@WinwickMumsocks I’ve had a look. I think that’s a good start for me. You mention the DPN’s a lot in your patterns, Are these necessary I haven’t got any yet? Joan you the way you might have guessed my grandchildren call me a bit of a dinosaur as I don’t do the instagram and social stuff but I am enjoying KZbin ( all courtesy of covid! 😆)

[@donnamcelhone1032]

I am using 3 3/4mm neddles and I have also size 5mm neddles could you tell me what is best please

[@WinwickMumsocks]

What yarn are you planning to knit with?

[@georgierobb5744]

Hi Christine, thank you for your Sockalong tutorials, they are so helpful. I do have a question for you though. If I want to do extra gusset decreases to make the foot narrower than the leg, is it better to do: decreases every row instead of alternating rows, ( but the same number of decrease stitches per row, ie 4 per row). Or, do I keep alternating rows but do extra decrease stitches in those decrease rows? I hope that makes sense. I have quite chunky calves and ankles, ( yes I have cankles 🙈 ), but regular foot width. Thank you, Georgie.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Hi! Whenever I've made socks that have required a smaller foot width than calf, I've just continued with the decreases as set so that's been every other round. I guess it depends on how many extra stitches you want to lose (the decrease I worked was from 84 to 76sts) as obviously the gusset does become longer, so if you think that your gusset might end up too long then by all means try decreasing every round to see if that works for you. If you put a lifeline in (my video is here: "kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIuplHlqe91grKM") just after you start your gusset decrease then if you do find that that you need to take it back, that will make it easier! Hope that helps!

[@georgierobb5744]

@@WinwickMumsocks Yes, I don’t know why I didn’t consider just continuing on as an option. I guess I may have thought the gusset section would be too long. Lifelines are a great suggestion. I’d never heard of those before, so thank you for the video link. I’m sure they will come in very handy, not just in this situation but many! Now I have two good options so thank you. I always knew I would need to customise but once I have the basic template figured out I can go from there. Thank you for your advice, very much appreciate it.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

@@georgierobb5744 You're very welcome! It's always good to know that you can customise your socks so that they fit your feet properly - that's the joy of handknits! Good luck!

[@tanyagrover1106]

This might be a stupid question, but does this calculation also work for children’s socks? I want to make socks for my 2 year old grandson. Thank you

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Yes, it absolutely does! It works for any foot as you measure around the ball so it doesn't matter what size it is 😀

[@tanyagrover1106]

Brilliant, thank you for answering so quickly.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

@@tanyagrover1106 You're very welcome - good luck with your socks! 😀

[@mytthumbs]

I’m using size 1.75mm (US 00). I counted 11 stitches per inch. Using your calculation, I should cast on 81 stitches (adjusted to 80 to be divisible by 4). The circumference of my foot is 8.5 inches. This sounds like a lot of stitches to cast. Is it? Thank you.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Yes, I'd say it is an awful lot - and you'll use considerably more yarn too. Can you try a bigger needle to see if you like the fabric with less stitches?

[@mytthumbs]

@@WinwickMumsocks I’ve been using 1.5. Just thought I’d try for smaller stitches as an experiment.

[@rheawetzler1853]

Hi how would you calculate size if socks are gifts and unable to take measurements

[@WinwickMumsocks]

You have to take an educated guess! If you know the person's shoe size and their build, you can generally work out if they have slim, "average" or wider feet and then you can use a measurement based on that. This website gives you an idea of the circumference measurements: www.apexfoot.com/shoe-sizing-chart/ (It's US shoe sizing so do adjust if you're not in the US as EU and UK sizes are slightly different). Alternatively, if you've knitted socks for someone with similar sized feet, go for those measurements as you probably won't be far out. I hope that helps! xx

[@rheawetzler1853]

Thank you for coming back to me so quickly. Appreciate your advice.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

@@rheawetzler1853 Good luck with your socks!

[@susiejune7851]

Genius!!!!

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Glad you like it! 😀

[@apricus4038]

I am considering an attempt at socks and am a bit lost. My daughters foot circumference measures 8.3 inches and my tension is 6.5 sts. I am using a 8 ply wool with 3.5mm needle. How many stitches would you say I should cast on? Based on your calculations I have derived 52 stiches cast on. Would that be accurate? Thank you for your guidance.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

Hi! I would work that out to be 8 x 6.5 (round the 8.3" circumference down) = 52 sts Then you need to take off 10% for negative ease so call that 5 ... take that off the 52 sts and you get 47 so I would probably go for 48sts or possibly 44sts, whichever you'd prefer. Hope that helps! 😀

[@apricus4038]

@@WinwickMumsocks Thank you for your quick response. I will give this a go and keep my fingers crossed that all goes well :)

[@WinwickMumsocks]

@@apricus4038 Good luck, I hope it works out!

[@apricus4038]

@@WinwickMumsocks aww thank you so much. The quote 'Teach a man to fish ...' applies to you here. I am struggling to understand the logic behind needle size and wool selection for a project. The varied sizes and types available in the market are mind boggling. Do you have a link that explains this to a novice please?

[@WinwickMumsocks]

@@apricus4038 Yes, that's my thinking! You can have a whole shoal of socks! 😀 As for the yarn weights and needles ... when you're making socks, 4ply is the "everyday" yarn and you get thicker from there with 6ply, DK (8ply) and Aran being the options. You don't tend to go thinner than 4ply simply because you don't want your socks to wear out too quickly, but you could if you wanted to - and the Sock Stitch Calculation will help you work out your stitches. The needle size that you'd use is usually one size down from what you'd *normally* use if you were knitting flat, so 4ply is 3-3.25mm (2.5mm for socks); 6ply is generally used for accessories anyway so 3mm is the usual size; 8ply would be 4mm for jumpers etc (3.5mm) for socks) and you can use the same size for Aran. It's also a bit of experimentation to see what type of fabric you like so those needle sizes are just starting points and swatching will help you to see what you like best. Hope that helps!

[@wendymontgomery6204]

So confusing

[@WinwickMumsocks]

What don't you understand? Perhaps I can help you 😀

[@wendymontgomery6204]

All the strings, but I think I got it figured out😁

[@WinwickMumsocks]

@@wendymontgomery6204 Oh good! You might only have to do it once and you're good for every pair!

[@mike20451]

Thank you!

[@WinwickMumsocks]

You're very welcome! 😀

[@mike20451]

I tried doing that, but I don't know why it gets huge - it fits well around the leg, but there's almost no stretching. Maybe I'm knitting too loosely and the fabric is stretching a lot. Or maybe I just like tighter socks. The pair I knitted before fits perfectly, but I noticed that the fabric stretches to the point that you can see the skin through it, is that normal? Are hand knitted socks usually with little stretchiness? I don't know what else to try.

[@WinwickMumsocks]

@@mike20451 Hand knitted socks should be knitted with negative ease, that is, that they should stretch a little get a tighter fit - but not to the point that you are stretching the stitches to breaking point! 😀 Would you like me to look at your figures with you?

[@mike20451]

😂 So my gauge has 7.5 stitches per inch and my foot circumference is 10 inches, so I subtracted 10% and I tried casting on 68 stitches. After 4 rows doing the cuff, I stopped to assess the situation, because the cuff looked huge... and I could stretch it to 12 inches. I was afraid to continue because the yarn is not very strong, it was felting and that was my third try. Maybe I should've just continued anyway. I tried a swatch in the round in plain stockinette with a stronger yarn today, but it seems loose as well. Or maybe it's the blocking that's the game changer? I was thinking about trying a toe up to see if it's easier to figure out the size as I go... Thanks, love

[@WinwickMumsocks]

@@mike20451 OK ... 7.5 multiplied by 10 gives 75. Take off 10% (7.5) and you get 67.5 so I would either go for 64 sts (for a more snug fit) or 68 sts so that sounds like you're right so far. Some yarns can be more stretchy depending on the content, but 4 rounds of rib won't really give you an accurate picture as you need to work a bit more for it to settle into shape properly. If you're worried about the yarn, perhaps you need a different one? Something with a 75% wool/25% nylon blend is usually good for socks, is that what you have?