WIPE-ON POLY - MY GO TO FINISH

[@jorgeandrade20]

Great video, quick and straight to the point. To complete the info: Wait about 6 hours after the first coat, then 2-3 hours for the remaining coats (on a 3:1 mixture). Lightly sand in between coats with 400 grit. 5 total coats produce the best results. These are scattered around the comment section so I figured it would be nice to have it all in one comment.

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Thanks for the comment.

[@socialcaterpillar5357]

OMG ... your video is a lifesaver!! We tried applying polyurethane (with a brush) to an oak stair railing and ended up with lots of drips on the underside. We sanded down the whole railing and started over. Using your method, the finish came out perfectly!! Thank you, thank you, thank you.

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment and for watching.

[@louislandi938]

VERY valuable lesson for me! Thank you for the clear and quick instruction.

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.

[@ethanryan3860]

Straight to the point and exactly what I needed to know, great video thanks!

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

You are welcome. Thanks for the comment.

[@TheSleepyCraftsman]

Very nice. I actually went and made some after watching this. I can see why this is your goto finish.

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

It is simple to make and apply, and produces a nice finish. Thanks for watching.

[@EPeltzer]

I would try just wiping on the undiluted stuff. I do this with Arm-R-Seal with a paper towel and sand between. Pretty perfect, usually 3 coats is plenty.Let hardned fully, wax using 0000 steel wool, buff to final. I was thinking of trying the Minwax though, but not if you can't wipe it on straight.

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

There is a difference between Arm-R-Seal, which is an Urethane (I have used it myself), while Minwax is a Polyurethane. I'm not a chemist, but I do know the chemical structure is different. I have not had any success wiping on undiluted polyurethane like I do with it diluted. With that, give it shot and see what kind of result you get. Thanks for your comment.

[@RyanONeill86]

Does this work with wood pieces that have a lot of grooves, corners and angles? I'm looking for a method for finishing a farmhouse barn door and I'm trying to eliminate running and build up.

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

It should work. As with any finish keep a wet edge and since wipe-on poly is diluted you may need more coats (4-5). Thanks for your comment.

[@LanceMcGrew]

what do you do between coats?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Very light sanding with 400 grit. Thanks for your comment.

[@danarahman5394]

Hi. Thanks for this and one question please, can it be used on cutting board and any other food projects?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Although polyurethane is not toxic, I would not be a good choice to use on a cutting board as it dries to a hard shell and cutting actions can cause the poly to flake off. For other items, such as napkin or paper towel holders, poly is fine. For cutting boards and other items that come in direct contact with food, butcherblock oil, mineral oil, or bees wax are just a few finishes that are recommended. Thanks for the comment.

[@danarahman5394]

@@AndersenWoodCrafts thank you for the information and quick reply. So Much appreciated.

[@lindajoyflower]

B Between poly coats after sanding do you wipe it off with a towel or paper towel? And if so should it be wet or dry?

[@kirkandersen3392]

Yes I wipe the sanding dust away. I will usually use a very damp cloth, just wet enough so dust clings to it. I have use tack cloth in the past, but for the price a damp cloth works just as well in my opinion. Thanks for the comment.

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

What I said.

[@tracyharper2747]

Could you use this method with polyshades?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

I've never tried. Technically I can't see why not. Do some tests and see how it looks. Thanks for the comment.

[@KJ-rd5tn]

Does it have smell because I want to use it indoor office table?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Sorry for the delayed response, in the middle of moving to a new house. There will be a smell when applying but once the poly is fully dried (a few days) the smell will go away. Thanks for the comment.

[@amazoncwoman]

Do you sand between your coats?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Yes I do, a very light hand sanding with 400 grit. Thanks for your comment.

[@Annie261.]

The only way to finish wood!

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

My preferred method. Thanks for watching.

[@Munchaussen]

Thank you for the video, it is great! Question, it is the same formula for poly made for flooring? I have a can and I would like to use it as wipe-on.

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

I honestly can't answer your question, I'm not that familiar with floor poly, I do know it is more durable and not sure if thinning it will effect it. If you're not using it for flooring, I don't see why not. Also this only applies to oil based poly, not water based. Thanks for your comment.

[@faaustin]

Do u sand in between coats

[@ChrisWrightDVM]

Nice video! I just finished my 4th and final coat of poly on an 8ft by 3.5ft farmhouse table top. At the very end, I noticed a small fly where I started, pulled it out, brushed over the 15 min old poly, BUT now there is a 2" X 3" brush mark. When it dries tomorrow, is there a way to fix JUST THAT SPOT? Can I sand with 800 and then do just a dab of wipe on poly, smoothing the edges seemless? Or will it show an edge no matter what? I've never wet sanded, but, I'm guessing another option would be to lightly sand that brush mark with 800 and some mineral spirits? Thanks for your time! Chris

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

That sounds like a pretty good dilemma you have. What you suggested about sanding with 800 and wiping with the wipe on would be the first thing I would try. I am not a finishing guru, but I fear that whatever you do will be noticeable to you, but like most art any imperfections or oops won't normally be noticed by others. Worst case would be to give the whole thing a sanding with 400 and apply one or two coats of wipe-on (In this case I would use a very diluted mixture of 50/50). Question, is the table for yourself or someone else? If I was making it for myself I personally wouldn't be as concerned then if it was for someone else. Sorry I couldn't be of any more help. Thanks for your question and good luck with the project.

[@Sal_The_3rd]

Do you have a video of fixing a scratch in this finish? Also… is it ok to spray?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

No, I don't have a video on fixing scratches. Depending on the scratch, a little light sanding (with 400 grit) and a coat or two can repair scratches. If the scratches are large and deep, a complete refinish my be necessary. Polyurethane can be sprayed, each sprayer is different, consult the manual of the sprayer to determine the tip needed and if it needs to be thinned.

[@pigjubby1]

What do you think about boiled linseed oil as the first coat with this mix on top? The grain on my buddy's mahogany guitar was amazing with plain BLO. What happens if I go more mineral spirits than poly to start? I saw one video where the first sealer coats were thinned 1:3 The following were 2:1 Thank you.

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

You can apply poly over most oils (BLO, tung, etc.), but you need to let the oil cure (not just dry) which can take days or weeks, or you risk the two finishes mixing and never curing to a hard finish. As far as the ratio, it is best to do some tests to determine if it will work. Thanks for your comment.

[@johnshaker77]

can i apply this method on the kitchen cabinet on vertical position or i it should to be horizontal ?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

I don't see an issue applying it in a vertical position. Question, I am assuming you are talking mainly about doors and drawers (and possibly face frames), and are the cabinets already installed? In my experience it is always better to apply a finish without the hardware attached to doors and drawers, thus you would need to remove the doors and drawers to do this. With that said, applying thin coats vertically should eliminate any runs, but you might need an extra coat, I usually do 3-4 coats, so you might need 4-5 coats.

[@ScrimigeProMidtownPro]

Great video! I’m about try your mixing technique but figured I’d ask, will this method work fine on a freshly black stained surface?

[@ScrimigeProMidtownPro]

Actually, it works incredibly well! Just tired a test piece before doing a first coat on my current project, and I can tell it’s going to work great!

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

@@ScrimigeProMidtownPro I was going to say it should work fine. As with any finish on a stained piece, as long as the stain is dry. Thanks for your comment.

[@jonathanhowey7835]

Will this be as strong and durable for a table top as it would if you brushed it on?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Yes, but you may need to put on an extra coat or two. Thanks for the comment.

[@jonathanhowey7835]

@@AndersenWoodCrafts okay thank you!

[@HagerHay]

Good narration. Does it build up a thickness like 5 coats like the straight poly does at 3 coats?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Yes the thickness does build up. My experience is five coats of wipe-on produces the best finish. If you mix it yourself it depends on how diluted you make it to how many coats you would need, just need to do some experimentations. Thanks for the comment.

[@LEPersonal-pf5wz]

HELP! I've watched your video, along with several others, to learn about wipe on poly techniques. I'm restoring vintage speakers from the early 80's and so far I've been able to refinish all three vertical sides with ease using similar techniques but the top of the speaker has been an absolute nightmare. I've removed and redone these top surfaces 4-5 times now because once I get beyond 2-3 coats i start getting this white film or fog across the surface and I can't figure what's causing it. I'm not sure if it's due to temperature difference than the vertical sides, the cloth that I'm using which is a cut up white t-shirt. I just can't figure it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Sorry for the delayed response, and also sorry that I have no good answer to your dilemma.

[@thetruthshouldbeclear8602]

I have a question. My ladder is supposed to be metal with a semi conductivity of 5.7 mhz and still not able to each the top without getting zapped. Will this help preventing the static if applied to the underside of the ladder. This was recommended by my veterinarian. Thanks

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

I have no idea.

[@joemungle7734]

Can this be used on a sanded down epoxy tabletop?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Haven't tried it myself, but poly should adhere very well to epoxy. Thanks for your comment.

[@joemungle7734]

Thank you

[@6atlantis]

Can I do equal parts poly, m.s and boiled lindseed oil?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Sorry for the dely. Sure you could do equal parts, I would just recommend doing some tests if you have never used a wipe-on poly, or if you change the ratio. No, I don't believe linseed oil can be used, needs to be mineral spirits.

[@kingskitchen5957]

Hello can i use polyurethane oil based for the bathtub coating?.

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Polyurethane can be used to coat a bathtub, but I would use a polyurethane that is designed for floors since it is designed for hard use. Thanks for your comment.

[@kingskitchen5957]

@@AndersenWoodCrafts thanks for ur immediate reply

[@h_chris5527]

Thumbs up for a great video! I have a question by the way. Has the satin poly formula changed? I bought a new satin wipe-on and the outcome appeared glossy, not matte. Putting it side-by side with an older project, it is nowhere comparable

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Thank you for your comment. Just did a little research and couldn't find any thing about a change in formula. The only thing I can think of as far as the older project being duller, and I have experienced this myself, is that possibly it as dulled a bit over time, especially if it has been exposed to sun light. Sorry I don't have a better answer for you.

[@h_chris5527]

​@@AndersenWoodCrafts Its allright. Thanks for the reply. Keep on posting new vids

[@harshil102]

@@h_chris5527 There is an additive to the poly that makes it more "matte" in semi-gloss, satin, and matte with increasing amounts of the additive in that order. That additive sinks to the bottom when poly is allowed to sit for a while. So if you forgot to stir or didn't stir it enough, you may have used poly from the top of the unmixed can that contained little of the flattening additive you were expecting.

[@smartanajones4u]

I was wondering should I use satin or semi-gloss mini wax polyurethane on my floor so I bought both to test it on a piece of wood and I swear they are identical. If I did not mark the areas, I promise you, I wouldn’t know the difference.

[@pigjubby1]

@@harshil102 There is a difference between "semi-gloss" "satin" and "matte"? "Matte being to least glossy?

[@ArtByKevinZapata]

Does wipe on poly yellow overtime?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Yes, any oil based poly will yellow over time. On the other hand, water based poly will not yellow, but with that said, I have not had any success in any water based wipe-on poly. Thanks for your comment.

[@MechInvent]

What grit would you sand a table to before applying this ?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Prior to applying the finish I would sand using 220. Sanding between coats I would use 400.

[@Mr.Pop0]

Is this the only way to achieve a matte finish?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Thanks for your comment. Polyurethane comes in matte, satin, semi-gloss, and gloss. Other finishers can also have a matte finish, such as shellac and oils. One of the main things to consider when choosing a finish is what kind of durability you are looking for, as polyurethane will have a harder protective skin than an oil.

[@Matt-uj6jm]

👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

Thanks

[@ObsidianBlade]

How long should I wait between coats with that 3 to 1 mix?

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

I wait about 6 hours after the first coat since that is the heaviest coat and really want it to set in, and about 2-3 hours for the remaining coats.

[@Makemericher]

Thanks for this! I’m using reclaimed hardwood, it’s not perfectly smooth as you might imagine. Various small gauges, varying heights (less than 1/32nd of an inch), etc. I’m planning to use a filler made from sawdust and shellack for those holes and to fill the low spots. (For instance, along some of the long edges as well as the short edges.) I’m wondering, since the flooring was already stained and I’m not (planning) on sanding... will this work to do filler made of shellack, then poly over it? (-using your 3-1 method) And, do you think that will help smooth it out or should I fill, sand, stain, then poly? I’m trying to avoid sanding.

[@AndersenWoodCrafts]

What are you going to use the boards for? Now the rule of thumb is that you shouldn't put poly over a shellac that has wax, but you can if the shellac is wax less. That being said, Marc Spagnuolo (The Wood Whisperer) actually did a non-scientific test on this and had no issues with the poly holding on thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/shellac-under-polyurethane/ Thanks for the question and for watching.