WIRELESS CAR BATTERY MONITORING SYSTEM USING ESP32 AS WIRELESS BLUETOOTH VOLTMETER

[@circuitdesolator]

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[@muhammadadib6632]

sir can i know the product buck converter ?

[@joels7605]

Excellent project. Well done. You should add a zener diode to that divider circuit. Car voltage is really, really nasty. Technically it's never supposed to go past ~14v, but even on a properly working car you can get brief transients of >50v and even sometimes it'll go negative. You can clamp that with something like a zener.

[@circuitdesolator]

I definitely agree on that. I have no extra zener that time though :)

[@aofddofa6661]

you did great ... i did the same 1 year ago the hard way , wish saw yours before ! , well done

[@RND-USA]

This is great! 👏 I have a couple of questions because I really want to make one now. Can you put the esp in deep sleep so so it takes periodic readings and or when woken up? Have you gotten the data to work in Home Assistant or Homebridge yet? Also what exact spec resistors did you use, like what wattage are they? I might have the parts here now to try it out! 😂

[@davebeckham5429]

Nice project. Thanks for sharing.

[@circuitdesolator]

Thanks for the comment dave. If you have any project ideas that i can work on just post here a comment 🙂

[@synergytech474]

Nice project! Is it possible to view the voltage history in a graph? It would be useful to spot a faulty battery or to monitor a secondary car’s battery

[@circuitdesolator]

Thanks for the feedback synergy tech. Graph is possible but i wasnt able to show it on my video. Thats a greay idea btw 🙂

[@garethsmith7628]

So the voltage divider alone uses 2.5 mA continuously, why not use some larger resistances?

[@circuitdesolator]

I definitely agree. I have no spare at that time though.

[@sebastianhecht5850]

Hi, do you know the power consumption of the setup when connected via BT and not connected?

[@ManousosGrillakis]

the buck converter is not needed, esp32 can be powered from Vin up to 15 volts as it is converted to 3.3v by ams1117.

[@eudyptes7431]

The buck converter is definitely needed, otherwise the power dissipation with 15V would be way too much for the little ams1117 linear voltage regulator without a real heatsink and it will shut off the voltage constantly, causing every time a signal loss. Ever heard of unreliable ESB8266 or ESP32 modules? Now you know the main reason🙂

[@fire17102]

​​​@@eudyptes7431what if the board has better power optimization, not running continuesly but only waking every few seconds to see if it is called for realtime monitor, or if the voltage changed with a big enough delta, which it will send an update. Do you think this will mitigate the overheating issue? If it goes to over heating, does the esp have access to it's own temp sensor? Could you without extra parts detect over temp and lower the operation cycles to produce less heat. Does this make sense or will the board heat up from the 15v source no matter if it is on or off? Also you could add a heatsink, If one or all of these are applicable that would save on the buck, what do you think? Genuinely curious Thanks and all the best!

[@PrivatePersona-ou1sy]

What is the electrical consumption of the Buck Converter and the Voltage Divider Circuit ? Looks like it can deplete the car battery if its parked for a long time

[@boblewis5558]

Even an LED will drain the battery if left long enough BUT on modern cars the CANbus is always powered as are several of the CUs and THEY take WAY more than a BT ESP8266 or an ESP32. We are talking mA not amps. Don't forget, whatever current is consumed by the ESP it's at 3v3 so 1/4 or thereabouts of the 12 v battery voltage and likewise if the ESP takes even as much as 120mA that is only about 30-35 mA ... The buck converter will typically be 85% efficient so you can easily work out the predicted power consumption.

[@Airguard08]

Nice.

[@rohithp8868]

Can you make a bms with one esp32 a 4s cell bms. To on off relay when fully charged if any cell overcharge cut off the relay.

[@troopyoverland]

Do you have a wifi model??

[@jonathanencabo1015]

Have you tested it while the car is running? How's the result? I would like to know if the buck converter is enough for the voltage spikes.

[@circuitdesolator]

Yes i did. It worked fine. It was there for 2 mpnths . But there are days that I have to reset the power because i cant connect via bluetooth. Havent had the time to work on it though.

[@jonathanencabo1015]

@@circuitdesolator I see. 2 months would be great considering that it has no power surge protector feature. Hoping you could post more videos about integrating ESP's and arduino's into cars 😊

[@bikeuser1736]

What about a WiFi version that would connect to home WiFi so you could check from anywhere, ie when on holiday, or even get Alexa or goggle home reports

[@TechnoEveryday]

Great project

[@circuitdesolator]

thank you :)

[@AT_Eng]

can we plot the graph on android of the voltage reading

[@patjohn775]

You should have connected it to fuse box on a 12v circuit that’s not on when the cars off

[@circuitdesolator]

Thanks for the suggestion. I know the fuse box but it is easier for me this way. On next project ;)

[@420ZEO]

Can you plz tell what change are required to measure for a 48v battery ?

[@kyubum]

Esp reads 3.3v. first register, it sould drive (48-3.3)v = 44.7v and the other register should drive 3.3v. Now, easy math. 44.7 : 3.3 = first : the other. You can use 5k ohm on first, and the other = 3.3 * 5k / 44.7

[@dredd3220]

So what all resistor do i need to use

[@Visalvyasan]

Why a buck converter, how about a 7805 IC