Wood burning - Wood Finishes for pyrography - Types and When To Use

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

I created a test panel to compare how the finishes age over time. I try to update the test panel photo yearly on my website. Blog link: wp.me/p8j0lZ-jC Based on the results lacquer and polycrylic are performing the best for remaining clear. Todd prefers to use lacquer because it doesn't require sanding between coats. Also I did a follow up video exploring matte vs glossy finish. I couldn't tell a difference other than the sheen factor. Here's a link to that video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/epjVd3eVrd59r80

[@beatstapia6380]

Muy buenas tardes, le salido de Perú. Que me recomienda usar estimada para los cuadros de pirograbados terminados y tener un brillo y resalté más lo pirograbado. Por favor de su apoyo. Muchas gracias

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Si quieres brillo, solo usa un acabado brillante. Me gusta usar laca o policriro con acabado mate porque no quiero brillos. Todos tenemos nuestras propias preferencias. :)

[@bendraper2261]

I had some birch Birch Branches cut into medallions and I had some art on them that my students did. When I stained them they went white where the burn was. I can’t recall what type of stain or sealer I used. I have just created some nice big art pieces to hang in my daughters room and I’m really worried that I’m going to have the same problem. Have you ever encountered that with any of the stains that you have mentioned? I’m just nervous that I’m going to wreck the art that I spent so much time on. Thank you

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

I don't stain the wood after I burn. I seal it with a finish (sealant) either lacquer or polycrylic, but that's it. I've never had the issue you described. My guess is that the stain couldn't penetrate past the burn marks on the rounds. I assume you're applying a stain to color the wood. As for your daughter's artwork, flip it over and test it out on the backside of the board. I doubt you'd have the same problem as you did with the rounds.

[@bendraper2261]

@@PyrographyMadeEasy thanks for the reply. It took me a few stores but I purchased some lacquer and thinner. Thanks again

[@AmyLouiseArt]

Hi Brenda, thank you so much for sharing this video. What a fantastic workshop! 😃👍

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Amy, thanks. Yes, Todd has quite the workshop. I'm not allowed in it without his supervision! :)

[@roycezook8168]

Just the info I was seeking. You present very well and I appreciate the time you take. Very comfortable and assuring.

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Royce, thank you for no only taking the time to watch, but to also leave a comment. I'm glad to know the information was useful. Have a fantastic weekend!

[@istmirwunst]

A very informative tutorial. Have a great weekend Brenda.

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Manuel, thank you so much. I wish you a wonderful weekend too!

[@mkgvip]

Hi Brenda, Once again like all your other videos, this was very informative and covering all the important aspects of the majority of wood finishes available in the market with pros and cones. Once again Thank you very much.

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Mitesh, thank you for the wonderful comment. I'm glad that the information is useful. Have a great day!

[@draw2night]

Big enjoy to listen your very kind and calm professional art supplies recommendations! After your help almost everybody become an artist:)👍👍👍🌹

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Thanks. Have a great day!

[@DavidThomas005]

very easy to follow. super clear and talked slow, i understand everything you said. this video is great

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi David, thank you for the wonderful comment!

[@DennisCNolasco]

Wow, cool! Love seeing the different variety of topics you provide. Your shop looks awesome Brenda :D

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Dennis, It's a subject that I get a lot of questions on. Not that I actually do any of the finish work, but since my hubby has been doing wood burning for 30+ years I get to ask him.

[@DennisCNolasco]

@@PyrographyMadeEasy It's cool that your passions compliment each other.

[@EveHarveyArt]

Hey there Brenda! This was such a cool setup! Loved this video and it was really interesting to watch

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Eve, thank you!

[@Swordandsphere]

Here after reading your heroic article on comparison of finishes and just want to say thanks for the information. Seriously impressive research, expertise, and info sharing. Thank you!!

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Glad it was helpful. Thank you for the wonderful comment!

[@ashkusanagi7568]

Thank you so much Brenda ! Very useful video.

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Ash, thank you so much for the wonderful comment!

[@TwistedTattoo.WarShorts]

Fantastic work Brenda, excellent tutorial congrats on the 2k followers 😁😁👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Jonny, Thank you. It won't be much longer and you'll be there too. I'm still absolutely amazed I've gotten this many followers!

[@itsmypukapuka4710]

Adjust speed to 1.25. Thank me later.

[@Actias1974]

I’d say adjust to 1.5

[@danake6]

Here are your flowers 💐 THANK YOU!

[@sahanatattoos4970]

Lol. Thank you

[@fernandoochoa984]

Hola Brenda...gracias por los tips..y tus trabajos bellos como siempre....un gran saludo

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hola Fernando De nada y espero que la información sea útil. ¡ten una buena semana! (You are most welcome and I hope the information is useful. Have a good week!)

[@Sydneyblue101]

Thank you so much! This was so helpful and informative. By the way, Brenda, you have a very calming voice!

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Glad it was helpful. Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to leave a nice comment. I've been told by a number of people that my voice reminds them of Bob Ross. :)

[@LindasDomain]

As usual, your videos are professional and informative. I'm glad you started with the one you like the most for artwork. After using a Krylon Satin Finish, I wasn't happy with the look, and I thought, who would have the best advice? Brenda, of course! And it was easy to find on your website. Thank you for taking the time to help the rest of us become more professional. My artwork has really improved since watching your tutorials.

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Linda, thank you for the comment. I have to admit I sorted the finishes alphabetically, so it was just a lucky coincidence that lacquer was first. :)

[@tatianaanderson1174]

Wow thank you so so much!! This was such an awesome video, I learned so much. Thank you for sharing ☺️

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Tatiana, thank you for not only watching, but for taking the time to leave such a nice comment. have a great week

[@HappyAngelDrawings]

Hi Brenda! Not only is it to finish the artwork but also the wood in which you made the art, that was really interesting! I am learning so much from you ^^ It is always nice to see you ^^ you are such a wonderful and lovely person ^^

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Happy Angel, there's a bit of prep work with wood to get it ready to burn on and to protect it after I'm done burning. It's probably not that much different from other artforms like painters who prep the canvas, etc. Fortunately I have a hubby who does woodworking, so he does that for me. I can't wait to read him your comment as he says I'm ornery and a smart aleck. :) One day I would love for you to appear in your videos!

[@tatianabeeartist4597]

Thank you for a wonderful explanation!!! 👍🏼

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

You welcome and thanks for the comment.

[@chrissycanvasart]

This is good advice Brenda, when we used to build horse drawn vehicles in wood we used alot of yatch varnish, you explained in this video excellently,hugs my friend 🤗👍

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Chrissy, thanks. I bet those were fantastic looking! Did you paint decorations on them?

[@chrissycanvasart]

@@PyrographyMadeEasy yes Brenda, all hand painted😁👍

[@mgtjones3712]

Another great video thumbs up from the UK 👍

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Mgt Jones, thank you!

[@ozzie9308]

Great video Brenda very useful, also a Massive congratulations on reaching 2 Subs well done

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Ozzie, thanks. I hope it will be a useful video. It's a subject I get a lot of questions about. Not that I necessarily know the answer, but my woodworking hubby usually does. :) I have to tell you that I'm absolutely amazed I've gotten so many subs. Never really expected that. Thanks again for the comment!

[@Davy.J.Y]

Now i dont know anything about wood working or how to take care of your wood, but i must say this was very informative. You create excellent torials Brenda i must say. That work shop is amazing ! Great video Brenda Q O P :)

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hello DK! Neither do I. That's what Todd does, but he refused to be in this video. He said that since power tools weren't involved I was the one to be in front of the camera. For some reason he doesn't trust me with his power tools....or most of his tools as far as that goes. He refused to change his mind even after numerous retakes to correct what I said. He does have a pretty nice shop. It's not very big, but he has made excellent use of the space he has. He keeps telling me that if we ever move he wants a place where he can have a proper sized shop. That sounds dangerous and expensive to me, so I don't see us moving anytime soon. :) Thanks for the wonderful comment. QOP

[@tamytotoNicos]

Very nice 👍👍👍🌹Greetings and respect for my creative lady. Thanks for this good information. 👍👍🌹🌹

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

HI TN, greetings to you! Glad you found the video helpful.

[@rhythmmusica4636]

Great sharing...very helpful big thumbs up my friend. Like 1 👍👍🙏

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Thank you so much.

[@Wingman115]

Great info. Thank you for sharing.

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment.

[@Makeitu]

Hi pyrography.....beautiful video....full watched my friend.....thanks for sharing....have a nice time.....

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Thank you.

[@Ana-vz3uj]

Thanks for the tips !

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Thank you for watching and leaving a comment!

[@dixitkoteshwar_arts]

Very nice information. Big thumbs up 👍

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Dixit, thank you.

[@umaartgallery1937]

Excellent tutorial videos .....and helpful video.....🌹🌷🌷👍👍

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Thanks

[@fairrider3346]

THAT IS ONE IMPRESSIVE COLLECTION ON CLAMPS!!!!!

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

I have to say your comment made me chuckle. Just never know what people will notice in videos. I did tell hubby that you were impressed with his clamp collection. His reply was, "you can never have too many clamps." :)

[@çizimyap]

6.lk.. nicee sharing.. good luck

[@DrawingWithFire]

Hey Brenda! 😁 Great video! For the most part I completely agree with everything you said. 😆 I have 2 technical & 1 opinion that is slightly different. 😉 The first being, if someone isn't cleaning their burning when done (denatured alcohol), it's better to use a spray layer first to seal the loose carbon down. If not, you will brush it all over the place. The second is glossy actually works better for burnings. I used to be in your camp with never using glossy. Then I learned an additive is used to cut the gloss. More is used as you go down to matte. This additive dulls and muddies the burning. With gloss is helps to show the different tonal values & color in the burning, because they aren't being interfered with by the additive. Here is the opinion part... lmbo 🤣 I love polycrylic! I never have a plastic feel to my pieces. I have heard woodworkers use that term & for furniture that may absolutely be right. I love that the polycrylic doesn't shift the wood very much. As to mod podge, I don't trust it for burnings. I'm hesitant to use any craft supply on a piece that I have work for so many hours. Ok I have interjected enough... lol! 😄 Great job!

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Val, you and I have some differences in our techniques or styles of burning. I have created some extremely dark burns that look black in color, but they do not have loose carbon on them. Instead the wood looks almost glossy and it is very smooth feeling. Out of curiosity I took a project I'm working on that has a very dark border on it and rubbed it down with denatured alcohol. The white cloth remained white with no trace of carbon. The only time I have ever had carbon residue is when using a torch or I had my pen tip so hot it turned red. Regardless, it does bring up a great point that I asked Todd about as he's the one who does the woodworking and finishing. He said that when he brushes over my dark borders, he starts at the inner edge of the dark area and pulls it out towards the edge of the board. He never brushes inward just to play it safe. As for glossy finish, we'll have to agree to disagree. To me glossy finishes catch and reflect the light which I feel negatively interferes with viewing the artwork. One day I might have to create a test panel just to compare matte, satin, and glossy finishes and how it does for viewing the artwork and if there is any noticeable loss of details. With the polycrylic, I would imagine that the plastic feel is directly proportional to how many layers have been applied. Todd made our dining room table and applied many layers of polycrylic on it as the table gets a lot of use and abuse compared to wall art. The table has a definite plastic feel. Thanks for the comment!

[@fernandoochoa984]

Hola Brenda....gracias por los tips...para mejorar los pirograbados🌹

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hola Fernando, De nada. Disfruto compartiendo mi amor por la pirografía, y espero que mis videos ayuden a otros a aprender la forma de arte y disfrutarla como yo. Brenda (Hi Fernando, You are welcome. I enjoy sharing my love of pyrography, and I hope that my videos will help others learn the artform and enjoy it like I do.)

[@patriciarusso1148]

This was a very valuable in-depth video to watch as I had been at a loss as to how to finish woodburning projects that had been completed. Sure, Rustoleum 2X-ulta cover gloss works well but that was because I woodburned or outlined a pattern & then worked with acrylic paint. On a completely woodburned project once finished, I sprayed with Krylon clear gloss more than one time which was my mistake and saw pooling off to one side of the wood! Sanding the board between applying 3 coats of finish is very important accept with shellac or oils I never would have know. Thanks Brenda, for all of the information which has been written down and can always be referred to.

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

This information was relayed from things that Todd told me. He is the one who applies the finishes to my projects. The key is applying a light layer, and let it dry. Then repeat until at least 3 layers have been applied. That is 3 layers on ALL sides of the board.

[@DavidDentonArt]

This is really useful Brenda. there are so many sealants out there I'm never sure which to use. I'd often wondered about what to use when decoupaging and it sounds like Mod Podge is the way to go. I'll have to look and see if I can get it in the UK :)

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi David, I think Mod Podge has been around longer than I have. :) I'd be surprised if you couldn't find it. I've found it at almost every craft store I've been in. Thanks for the comment!

[@draweasychannel]

very nice guide ,useful upload ,,big thumbs up frnd

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Thank you!

[@pyrographypete6640]

Excellent tutorial Brenda. Very informative and you've answered a lot of questions that I've always wondered about. I've seen videos where Mod Podge has been used to transfer images and photos onto wood. I've always been tempted to give it a try but I'll leave it for a later date. There have been other videos where I've seen conflicting messages. Some say that when you finish a piece that the whole panel should be varnished - front, sides and back. Others say don't varnish the back because it allows the wood to expand and contract and won't crack the varnish. What is your suggestion?

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Pete, Unfortunately on almost every subject there is conflicting information. I'm not sure why you would want the wood to expand and contract. Hubby, who has done woodworking for 20+ years, says that you should coat all sides as the purpose to so help keep the wood moisture constant. Keeping the wood moisture constant prevents it from warping and cracking.

[@richypyrography]

Hi Brenda. This is The Video. I've never seen such a good , complete and well structured explanation about this. The thing about Polyurethane is that they claim it doesn't yellow the wood, but it does a little. Just like the board you show at the end. I would like to share the link to your video on my channel. Can I have your permission?

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Richy, thank you. It really helps having a hubby who does woodworking. Of course you can. I'm honored that you want to, so thank for that!

[@patriciarusso1148]

Thanks!

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Thank you for the generous gift

[@EnlightenedFlamingo]

Hi, Brenda, first thing I wanna do is thank you for all you do to teach us & help make up better, more confident burners. Second, I'm very new &, at least to start, I wanna do smaller projects like Christmas ornaments or little wall hangings. Do I need to use any of these for that kinda stuff? Now I'm concerned about how handle the finishing process as I only have a bedroom sized craft room to work in... or maybe the hubby would be okay with me doing it in the garage...

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Amy, Welcome to the exciting artform called pyrography!! I hope that you will come to love it as much as I do. I recommend using a finish because it keeps the wood from fluctuating in moisture level. Moisture fluctuation will cause the wood to swell and shrink. Just like old wooden door or window that is easy to open when the humidity is low and tough when it's high. I personally like the garage option. That's where I do my sealing as it doesn't stink up the rest of the house. :) There are other options. If it's nice enough outside, you can always apply there. Also, you can get a box big enough to set the piece in, and apply the finish in a bathroom that has a fan. The box helps keep overspray contained. Close the door and return after it's dried. With light coats of spray on that's usually 30 minutes or so. Hope you have a blast with your new hobby!

[@EnlightenedFlamingo]

@@PyrographyMadeEasy Thank you so much for the information! I will definitely try out these options!

[@bradleyjmusic8245]

Great video! Thank you for sharing. I’m wondering what you would finish for a hot yoga studio piece . There’s a humidifier that runs in the space and it reaches 108 degrees Fahrenheit.

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Bradley, I asked Todd and his first recommendation was a spar urethane used for boats. The down side to this is that like all urethanes, it imparts a very yellow or tan hue to the wood. If you are concerned about the added color, then go with a polycrylic. Both finishes are types of plastic which will resist the humidity and can handle the heat you listed. I would HIGHLY recommend doing a test piece just to make sure.

[@jaysons8050]

Hi! Being that basswood is very soft and can easily be scratched or put an indent in, does lacquer protect basswood with many layers applied? Thanks

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Jayson, It does to a small degree. I wouldn't use basswood for anything that would get a lot of physical use like a cutting board, game board, etc. I only use basswood for wall art. Thanks for the question. B

[@patriciacalderon476]

Hi one of the finishes that was recommended to me was carnauba wax, have you used it? I ordered some but not sure how to apply or how many cotes do I apply, or if it’s okay to apply if I used paint. Thank you 😊

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Patricia, I asked Todd, and he said that he has used it for cutting boards, but not for pyrography. Todd said that the board must be sealed before you would ever apply a wax. After that, his comment was, "why would someone want to use a wax on art?" My personal recommendation would be to test it out on a piece of scrap. Make sure to apply color to the scrap to see if there is any interaction. That's about the best I can tell you. Good luck with your project.

[@carmenpelletier4560]

Will the (Deft) clear wood finish Semi-gloss, prevent the burn from fading?

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Carmen, as I mentioned before, the pyrography is not fading. Instead the wood is aging or oxidizing. As it does this it gets gradually darker in color. At some point the process stops. Wood finishes also age and discolor over time. The two finishes I've had the best results with are lacquer and polycrylic. I doubt the brand matters. I have a test panel with a number of different finishes on it and the polycrylic is slightly lighter in color than the lacquer. This disadvantage of polycrylic is that it requires a light sanding between coats whereas lacquer does not. I have a community post that will be public in a day or two that discusses this issue and steps to help reduce it.

[@dawnabbott3783]

Hi Brenda….you are awesome! My only last confusion is water based versus oil based n some poly products. I am assuming it wouldn’t matter unless colour was used in the art work then you may want oil based?

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Dawn, It has more to do with durability and application. If it's going outside then use an oil based finish. Spar Urethane is probably the most durable finish, but it will add a very noticeable yellow hue to the project. If it's staying indoors, then water based products work just find. My personal favorite is polycrylic. It has been performing extremely well on my finish test board. Another thing to consider is that oil based finishes tend to react with some colors more than a water based one. There are some colored pencil artists who use oils to blend their colored pencils. If you're going to use a oil based finish then I'd recommend doing a test board to see if there is a reaction or color shift.

[@dawnabbott3783]

@@PyrographyMadeEasy Thank you for taking the time to reply. I didn’t want to get water based and find out that it won’t adhere over wax or oil pencils. Anyway, I searched all over town and everyone is out of stock in the spray lacquer and spray polycrylic. I ended up getting Krylon matte finish for art. I will let you know how it turns out ;j

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

I haven't had any issues with bonding. The only thing I highly recommend is using a spray on when you've added color. One of my first projects I used Krylon matte because it was all I had, and it worked fine. I hope you get good results too. Yes, please let me know how it turns out.

[@irishwanderer4206]

nice shop!! super jealous here at my kitchen table in my little apartment lol.

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

I'll let hubby know. I think he forgets about the days when he didn't have a shop. :)

[@irishwanderer4206]

@@PyrographyMadeEasy oh for sure us irish are less fortunate and will never have the opportunity to live the dream in the big USA. i would only love a space like that i would make a fortune my carvings dont sell a whole lot as i have just started.

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Well my response did not come across as intended. My apologies as I was not trying to be condensing or rude. Instead I was commenting about how my hubby complains about his shop and forgets the days when he didn't have one....back when we too lived in an apartment. That was all. It was just a comment about how sometimes we forget the past. Had absolutely nothing to do with you or your country. Again, my apologies.

[@irishwanderer4206]

@@PyrographyMadeEasy haha I'm sorry I could have explained it alot better myself I'm not offended or anything nor did your comment affect me how I meant it was some folks take for granted what they have until its gone put your hubby here and me in your hubby's shoes I would live in the shop haha you can keep the house 🏡 see I didn't take any offence its just Ireland is too small to have anything big. We complain too alot haha 😂

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

I'm glad I didn't offend you. I was actually worried I had. I kept thinking about how I finally "meet" someone from Ireland and in less than a week I've offended the person! I totally agree that people take for granted what they have. I'm not sure what you mean by Ireland being too small to have anything big. I would have to admit that I'm not very knowledgeable about Ireland.

[@TheLifeApp]

Hello, Brenda. Thank you for your amazing and inspiring work. i have been woodburning for three years, and everything I learned about technique came from your You Tube videos. I was wondering if you had any thoughts about using beeswax as a finish. I have been using oil-based polyurethane, but found out the hard way that the nice rich hue it imparts to the wood causes some of the finer shading details to be lost. I was worried that a colorless water-based finish will raise the grain of the wood and affect the image. You don't mention it on your "finish" tutorial. Is that an issue, say, if I were to use lacquer? So I guess this is a two part question: 1. Is the raising of the grain with a water-based finish a concern; 2. Any thoughts on using a beeswax paste ? Thank you and God bless you, -- Sister Maria Emmanuel

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hello Sister Maria Emmanuel, Thank you for the lovely comment! I'm glad my videos are helpful The rich hue of polyurethane is why I don't use it either. That and how much it stinks.....very offensive to my nose. I have a 4 step process I use to prep boards before I burn on them. Sand, wet out, let dry, and sand again. This process raises the grain, so I can use any finish I want. Here's a link to a video I have on prepping boards: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZLGcmusq96Vlbc By the way, I do this for ALL wooden surfaces I burn on including plywood. I hope you continue to enjoy pyrography. I think it is a fantastic medium to work in, but I might be a bit biased. :)

[@TheLifeApp]

@@PyrographyMadeEasy Thank you! This is so helpful!

[@TheLifeApp]

Thank you for being so thorough in your explanations. Right now I have some projects that are already burned and need a finish. I'll be smart about preparing the wood next time, but for now maybe I will try beeswax since I can't risk a water-based finish. Yes, pyrography is a fantastic medium to work in. I love drawing with fire! And never cease to be amazed at how much detail is possible with such simple tools. I wish I could show you some of my work -- I think you would enjoy seeing how much I learned from you. Thanks again!

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

You're welcome. Hope the information is helpful. I would love to look at your artwork! I really enjoy seeing what others create in pyrography. I will mention that I do not critique, offer suggestions, etc. I tell you this because I get a number of people who want to "share" their artwork with me, but what they are really after is help. Then they get mad when I refuse. That said, here's an email you can send some of your artwork to: [e-mail] I look forward to seeing what you have done!

[@kerriwolfton3195]

What about using clear resin on wood?

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Kerri, great question. I asked Todd and got a long winded answer/lecture about epoxies. To him resin is half of the 2 part epoxy mixture. 15-20 minutes later the answer was he hasn't used epoxy very much and hasn't tried it over pyrography. He doesn't know if it will yellow, and if it does how much it will yellow. Unfortunately I don't have an answer for you. My recommendation would be to try it on a test board. If you do let me know how it went. Brenda

[@lisavento7474]

sanding my Taylor guitar...so i'm thinking AFTER i burn and color with watercolor, that spray on should work but you're saying to use a brush on after that? i want something MATT and light. it's an acoustic not electric.

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

That's not what I said. If you apply color, the first couple of coats of finish need to be sprayed on. Brushing on finish can cause the color to smear. After the spray on coats have been done, then if you want you can switch to a brush on finish. You do not have to use a brush on finish.

[@lisavento7474]

@@PyrographyMadeEasy yeah, we're saying the same thing. I've seen so many just wax when they do pyro and maybe some watercolor, Danish oil also but wondering if the harder poly covers are for more like acrylics which can scrape off? I mean...do you oil the guitar/wood after this or does the sealer just keep it forever?

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi there, It''s Todd answering this question. Brenda turned this over to me, since I do the finish work on her art work. Depending on the type of finish you use, the ingredients in the finish can interact with the pigment you choose to color your wood/woodburing. For instance, lacquer, which I use on Brenda's artwork most of the time, can dissolve pigment and if you're brushing the finish on, it can smear that pigment. For the first few coats, I spray it on while I have the artwork flat, face upward, on a turntable for ease of application. After that is dry, I might brush on the rest. Lacquer by the gallon is a lot cheaper than spray cans. I don't have a set up for an HVLP system and I doubt I ever will do that. Still, I go through about a gallon to a gallon and a half a year. I could spray it all on but that would be a fair few coats and lots of cans. I consider, for hanging artwork, 5 coats of spray sufficient. If it's something that's going to get a lot more hands-on use, I might not use lacquer but instead something like Polycrylic or other non-yellowing hard finisher (nitrocellulos possibly). Once your finish is cured, you don't have to oil it unless that's what you used in the first place. Oil does have its place as a finish for certain things but, I don't believe, guitars or hanging art work to be one of those. I hope that answers your question.

[@lisavento7474]

@@PyrographyMadeEasy I"m not sure. I've seen people oil guitars like you do wood bowls or such to keep the moisture. (my last one cracked from the dryness). I've used Minwax WIPE ON Poly and regular poly on painted furniture but certainly don't want to do shiny heavy lacquer on this matt guitar (it's acoustic, not electric which usually has heavier lacquers). Thanks for your time for sure.

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Brenda here. They do have a matte finish polycrylic out there. I did a test panel comparing the sheen levels of polycrylic. I had another pyro channel inform me that matte finishes will reduce the amount of detail that is visible on pyrography artwork. I had never hear that before, and I couldn't find any information on it. I even contacted the manufactures, but I never got a response. Long story short, I didn't see any different on the detail that was visible when I compared matte, satin, semi-gloss, and glossy polycrylic finishes. If you're interested here's the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/epjVd3eVrd59r80 As for the guitar drying out and cracking. Todd uses humidipacks on his guitars. He stores them in the case with a humidipack, and that works wonderfully.

[@TejaaArtists]

Hello Brenda CAN YOU MAKE MANDALA USING YOUR PYROGRAPHY ..??? & THEN COLOR..

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

Hi Tejaa, There are artist who create mandala art in pyrography. Some really gorgeous work at that, but so far my attempts at it haven't been all that great or grand. I have fun, but they are never that elaborate. Not like the stuff you create. I think part of my problem is that I keep trying to make "objects" instead of repeating designs. Thanks for the comment and have a wonderful weekend!

[@lookmammesonyaotoob5392]

Video unavailable

[@PyrographyMadeEasy]

not sure why

[@lookmammesonyaotoob5392]

@@PyrographyMadeEasy it's working now I can see it