Wood splitter hydraulic pump repair/rebuild

[@LifcoHydraulics]

Exactly what we need. Subscribed!

[@andrewseay6233]

Thanks for the seal part #. My pump works good just leaks from the shaft seal. I wanted one on hand before I take the pump off.

[@mikemurphy67]

Great job and video. I believe the woodruff keys you need are available in a inexpensive kit from Harbor Freight. I've used this kit a number of times and that small kit has got us out of a jam more than once. Thanks for the video.

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

Unfortunately in this circumstance the key I needed was one smaller than the key. I dont know if I got lucky or if I'm too stubborn to give up. But regardless, it's still running.

[@WeatherNut27]

@11:00 I think thats what I need to replace. Do they sell that seal only? I have fluid leaking from somewhere between the 2 parts.

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

@WeatherNut27 in theory you could use some gasket maker like copper rtv or even a basic gasket paper. It's only there to take up any machining variations.

[@thenorthshore6472]

That small woodruff key looks the same as you'd find in a small 2 stroke engine to hold on the flywheel. Common on weedwhip engines.

[@BretDavis-n8e]

Hi, The shaft which the woodruff key goes into broke in half. I'm trying to find one. no luck so far. Its 1/2 wide and and 6 inches in length. Any recommendation in finding one would be appreciated.

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

If the shaft itself broke, then you're probably going to need a new pump. The one exception might be if you can find a small engine mechanic that has a spare part pump in their 20 year bin of screws.

[@BretDavis-n8e]

I may ask a machine shop to make the shaft. The indent for the bigger woodruff key caused weakness in the shaft.

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

@user-se9kp3ze4x pay attention to cost. It might be cheaper to buy a new pump than have a single case hardened part made.

[@BretDavis-n8e]

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 I ended up purchasing a new pump. I do have parts (Including Woodruff keys) for free (Shipping Cost only) if anyone needs them?

[@havardpedersen1138]

I have oil leaking into the electric box through the hole of the cable going to the capacitor. Is it possible to pinpoint the fault just from this information?

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

I'm afraid I can't help you on this one. If I knew what you are working on I may be able to assist. But as far as I know there's no electrical, cables or capacitors in a hydraulic system of this type.

[@whitetailridgehomestead]

Was hoping this was my issue but no.... tore it apart and everything was fine.

[@modifyman6977]

You could have, @ least, constructed a new gasket out of some thing thin...Heavy Duty Reynolds. A set of descent hole punches and a pattern from scanning the other gasket into your computer...Need a scanner and a computer but...could had "carefully" made a pattern by hand. But yeah, the purchase option is often best.

[@Mohammad-lf7vb]

Thanks

[@byronmill]

The key seat is the groove that is machined in the shafts. The keyway is the internal slot that is cut in the gears. The key is what is fitted between those two, in your case a woodruff/ half-moon key.

[@cyoungso]

So what failed on this that require dissassembly?

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

In a previous video I troubleshoot that the prior owner had swapped engines and failed to check the alignment of the pump correctly. They basically mashed the motor and pump together pushing the main shift all the way into the housing shearing the woodruff key for the second stage.

[@robertdominiczak6523]

I make my own woodruff keys out of car leaf springs with no issues

[@tjs_welding_and_fabrication]

McMaster-Carr

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

Thanks for sharing... just cruised their site. I guess if I wanted to buy 100 at a time that would be good. I just needed 1.

[@timothyhowell2091]

My splitter barely moved the piston and stopped. The fluid gets aerated them leaks from the reservoir at the weld on the suction port. Can you give me any info on the possible cause of the hydraulic system failures.

[@timothyhowell2091]

GX160 HONDA 5.5

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

If you're sucking air at the suction port that's where I would start. Air compresses while hydraulic fluid doesn't. If it's at pump you should be able to pull the pump and take it to a welding shop and have it braised as long as it isn't rusted or corroded out. I would not recommend welding it unless you are proficient at TIG. Even then it might not be feasible. Another option could be JB weld. You will have to pull the pump and CLEAN the suction port. It must be spotless for the jb to stick. If it was the pressure side DO NOT use JB. Acetone or brake clean work good for cleaning hydraulic fluid off parts. A brass brush will help with scrubbing and a metal brush just before you apply your last spray of brake clean will ensure the surface is clean and scuffed for the JB. And make sure it's dry before applying and follow the package for curing time.

[@timothyhowell2091]

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 it’s the reservoir that is leaking. I can fix that however it is pushing the fluid out of the reservoir. I’m not sure what the settings are on the pump. Check valve? Pressure release valve mostly in or backed out? It’s next to the suction port it’s a flathead bolt with a silver cap?

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

Just an off the wall question... are you sure the fluid level isnt too full and your lines aren't reversed?

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

P.s. the pressure release valve should be on your control not your pump.

[@ZXXpilot]

So does it leak?

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

It does not. Not even a bit of wetness.

[@philliphall5198]

I like Eaton pumps best or rolx

[@philliphall5198]

Most hyd shops have the parts to fix these small pumps

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

Not in our area. They didn't carry anything.

[@thekingsilverado8419]

What did not replace is the small needle bearings and they will soon fail if not immediately. That is usually what knocks those pieces apart is the needle bearings in the pump start the shafts to cavitating. Them the pump starts knocking or grinding & squealing again. So this guy aint the guy to listen to,,

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

As I explained in the original video. The reason the pump failed is because the prior owner had misaligned the pump to the motor so it was too close which forced the shaft all the way into the housing. I didnt replace the needle bearing because they weren't bad. They were all still solid in their cages so if it ain't broke... dont fix it. P.s. it's been 6 months since I did this and about 10 cord of wood split. No problems at all.

[@thekingsilverado8419]

@@southernyankeehomestead3230 Its almost impossible to misalign them 4 bolt pumps and i mean impossible but them morons R out there... Most people replace the bearings. Period.

[@southernyankeehomestead3230]

Ok. I see our term we are using are different. Let me try this. When I bought the splitter the previous owner had swapped the pump (and moror). Well somewhere along the line he got the spacing wrong between the engine and the pump. So when you tightened the bolts down holding the pump to the motor it was compressing the Lovejoy coupling until the crankshaft and hydraulic pump main shaft were pressing against each other. This pressure overpowered the snap rings allowing the main shaft on the pump to bottom out in the housing and in turn pop the secondary pump gear past the woodruff key that would prevent the second stage from engaging and ate up the woodruff in the process. This alignment is very easy to mess up if you swap motors, adapters, couplings or even the hardware that mounts the pump to the engine. I believe I covered this a little better when I swapped out the honda clone motor for the honda motor that I'm running on it now.