Wood Wax Finish - My new Favorite Finish

[@stevephillips8719]

I've been using this wax since Ian the (now former)curator of the British Museum's; Arms and Armour told me that they use it on all their unfinished armour, swords and firearms. It was developed specifically for the BM.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Yes it was. Look up the history of it online and it's quite an interesting read

[@AJB326]

The new intro is great. Feels like Saturday morning cartoons with my bowl of cereal.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Glad you like it. Thanks for the feedback

[@samz8023]

can we get the “I’m Rob Cosman welcome to my shop” in there ?

[@DKWalser]

Dale Nish introduced this wax to me when I took a turning class from him. It works very well. However, I've found a replacement, Doctor's Walnut Oil Microcrystal Paste Wax, that works just as well but is much less expensive. Both products contain the same wax, Cosmolloid 80H. The difference is in the solvent carrier used to keep the wax soft so it can be applied. Renaissance uses a chemical solvent and Doctor's uses walnut oil. Currently Renaissance costs about $20 (US) for 2.25 ounces. Doctor's Walnut Oil Microcrystal Paste Wax costs $10.50 for 4 ounces. Other differences: The chemical solvent used in Renaissance will penetrate the skin and be absorbed into the blood stream. Whether that will hurt you or not depends on how much exposure you receive, over what period, and your personal sensitivity. I use nitrile gloves when I apply it. (The solvent evaporates quickly, so there's no risk in handling items to which Renaissance has been applied.) On the other hand, walnut oil is a hardening oil. It will take some time -- years, maybe -- but, eventually, a can of Doctor's Walnut Oil Microcrystal Paste Wax will turn from a soft paste into a gum. It can still be applied, just not as easily.

[@Sadowsky46]

Thanks a lot! This was the essential information I was looking for 👍

[@TWC6724]

Will have to check it out. Thanks. Where do you get it?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Docs is made in Oregon. Good stuff. The walnut oil helps in drying harder

[@lxfxmstr]

@@David_K_pi The few Woodcraft Stores I've been in stock the whole Doctor's finish line.

[@douglasjones6248]

@@David_K_pi it is available in the stores. Or at least in the Dallas store.

[@ginopav7712]

Thanks to a fellow Canadian, i made a pendant lamp with many nooks and crannies and was hesitant on applying a varnish for fear of getting runs. You convinced me to go with the paste wax.

[@emm_arr]

Renaissance Wax is perfect for plane soles. I've been using it with Boeshield to protect cast iron against the pervasive British damp. It works on metal. Brass. Iron. Bronze. It's a great product. And it's great for wood.

[@emm_arr]

And marble, onyx and stone too.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Works for lots of stuff. Tons of used

[@grkuntzmd]

I've been an amateur knife maker for about 5 or 6 years (as well as a woodworker). I've been using Renaissance Wax on my finished knives to keep them from rusting, and I love the stuff (I also use it on my chisels, hand plane blades, etc.) Great stuff!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Its great on metal

[@Onewheelordeal]

Thank you for showcasing more wood varieties than just the staples. Just did some speakers in pommele moabi and ziricote and every finish I tested darkened the heart wood so much it hid the figuring, or bleeds color into the sap wood. Just waiting for my test piece to dry now so here's hoping wax is going to be the perfect solution.

[@iamwhoiam4410]

I've been using that wax for many years. Pro furniture makers all over the world use it. I also use it on power tool table tops, hand planes and saws. When I first stated buying it it was under $10.00 now it's doubled that. I had a new can come in last week.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Yes its great stuff, and the little can does last a long time

[@iamwhoiam4410]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking A small can usually last me almost 12 months. Thanks Rob for bringing the wax to the attention of your viewers. Just about every woodworker I talk to has never heard of it.

[@johnnyc563]

We've used this wax for pen making for years. Rock hard finish. Shines acrylic like polished glass. Like the new beginning.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

great tip

[@superjeer]

I was given a can of this by a friend 20 years ago and it was presented to me as a wax to use to protect the metal surfaces of saws, jointers, planes, etc. I still have that same can, almost empty. I've used it to see what something would look like finished, but never thought to use it AS a finish, except when restoring wooden hand tools. It works great on the tools. Prevents rust and makes the work slide like it's on ice.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Yes lots of folks use it as s rust inhibitor

[@kimbye1]

Been using renaissance wax for years on pool cue shafts, works great.

[@22busy43]

I was introduced to renaissance wax several years ago when I started using it on my gun stocks. I’ve used it on small boxes, as well as metal around the shop. I’ve also used a jojoba oil and beeswax mixture on my small boxes.

[@dbnoho]

First time seeing the new intro. Of course I love the old, saw saw saws slap slap slap intro. But the new one is very well done and very approachable for everyone. The people who watch are watching. But to expand to new people and new students. This is great. Ps. I own that wax on hand planes.

[@Brough_builds]

Love the new intro, I like to use wax for how easy it is to use and repair/touch up

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I agree with you

[@lawrencediggs7957]

Thanks. Can you post the name of the wax and a link?

[@johnfaustus1]

I used to work for a supplier of Picreator Enterprises (the company that manufacturers Renaissance Wax) - it was developed in 1953 under contract to the British Museum Research Laboratory. The museum had long been using waxes that contained one of beeswax or carnauba wax; while those are fine for things like painted metal, it was too acidic and eating into many of the museum's organic artefacts (wood, leather, cloth, pottery, etc). The wax is actually one of the first commercially available microcrystalline waxes - the cost is somewhat justified because: i) its primary raw ingredient (petrolatum) is quite expensive ii) the the de-oiling process of the petrolatum is hilariously expensive iii) it's still made in and shipped from the UK.

[@cy-villian]

Thanks for that. One of those comments that reminds me of how positive the net could be.

[@Borescoped]

Just popping in to say that I personally use the Odie’s Oil lineup of products for the things I work on, even let my 6 year old help with applying the finish to projects I’ve made. Great stuff.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Luther swears by Odies products

[@andykg73]

After watching this vid I immediately got some from Amazon. When it got delivered I eagerly opened the box to find I bought a jar that was a little bit taller than my thumb 🤣 it pays to read the size before blindly ordering it! still its great stuff 👍

[@JagStar]

Great video. I’m just finishing up a guitar build. I pore sealed with Aqua Coat and put on a couple coats of Tru Oil. I think the Tru Oil was a bit past it’s prime and wasn’t looking good at all. So I sanded the body back and have applied about four coats of boiled linseed oil. The final layer will be Renaissance Wax and I was going to do that after a few more coats of BLO. This video has convinced me to go to the wax now (well, that and I’m impatient 😂). Thanks Rob.

[@WootTootZoot]

I've been using it for some time now when I do restorations on African Blackwood bagpipes. I like to put on a coat of wax then rub it with bore oil, then hand rub another coat of wax and buff it right away. I know they say it only needs one coat, but I like the finish I get.

[@tabitha2706]

I’ve been using plain bees wax on many things. Brings out the grain beautifully

[@ed-gw3ov]

I bought the Renaissance Wax several years ago for a marble countertop, works and smells nice. Now I've tried it on my table saw. router table top & hand planes, love it! Thanks Rob I'll give it a try on a few small boxes I've made.. Take care all...

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Let me know how you like it on wood

[@brandonhoffman4712]

I would suggest a paste wax with a polymerizing oil on wood. If you have the time to wait between coats. Something using tung oil or linseed should be pretty good. The wax is more about the shine level, microcrystalline wax provides a nice satin shine. I make my own next level paste wax that creates a copolymer on the surface while also being food grade. I'm working on a tool wax next. I prefer 100% natural and food safe. So my tool wax will be made with 3 ingredients. Food safe D-limonene (orange oil solvent) microcrystalline wax, and carnauba wax!

[@sunshineisdelicious]

Great video, thank you! I always love demos of things

[@kentboys5017]

The new intro is great! It is good to hear about an easy finish like wax. Awesome! Thank you for sharing. Take care. 👍🏻

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks for the feedback

[@iskato914six]

great new intro Rob and crew! animation looks fun. the renaissance wax is great, for many materials.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thx

[@WoodenWaresHandwork]

That is a great wax, I've been using it for years and standby it. A couple of pointers you only need a thiin coat. Also if you wipe it off straightaway you get a matt finish, but if you allow it dry for maybe 10 minuted you get a semi gloss look.

[@loki7441]

I have been making some "Tablet" stands for my wife and friends from pine. As an experiment I rubbed a basic bees wax into the timber and buffed it up. It turned out reasonably well, if a little white becuase of the colour of the pine. A second coat didn't make it look any better. Its survived being handled regularly with no ill effects. The colours it brings out on some of your chosen timbers is really good. In relation to spraying the small boxes with lacquer, have you tried using a modeling airbrush such as Badger or Iwata. I have sprayed Formula one car models in a clear gloss lacquer to achieve the high gloss finish of the real cars. In the time it takes to clean the airbrush of lacquer or varnish, the finish, I use acrylic modeling paints; has started to set some what. I put some thinners into the spray cup and spray a fine mist over the model . It drops onto the finish coat and levels the top coat to a glass finish. I have done the same using a trigger bottle set to a fine mist when vanishing the oak interior doors in the house. No brush marks or bubbles. Its a tip that was passed on to me by a painter. It works even better if you have the door off the frame and on a trestle. Love the videos always learning something new.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Instead of using a small modelers sprayer I would just use a spray can

[@MrSharper802]

I've been using Renaissance wax for years. Its great for tool surfaces and for finishing. Two suggestions - 1. spray a couple coats of shellac and then top coat of wax. 2. A single coat of hard wax oil followed by a kiss of Renaissance wax

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Great tip

[@andrewperry1987]

Could you share why this is better?(and maybe pictures)

[@MrSharper802]

@@andrewperry1987 Not better just other finishing options that are not lacquer and true oils as Rob mentioned. The shellac dries quick and you can put on 3 coats and wax all in same day. Hard wax oil needs to dry for at least a day.

[@mrfirestop415]

Been loving Ren Wax and clear Sculpt Nouveau Metal Wax as a wood finish too! I like to get a beautiful shine by burnishing with a handful of shavings where possible after waiting at least several minutes for the film to dry....buffing with solvents still present keeps moving the wax around, even removes it.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Another great tip

[@eaglewhite3107]

A member of my woodworkers group years ago demonstrated Renaissance Wax for protecting finishes on tools, and for a final finish before buffing of pens. I've also found another great use for it. The screen of my cell phone. I use a highly water resistant case so I am not actually waxing the "gorilla glass", I am applying wax to the plastic screen of the protective case. The idea is to reduce any buildup from use. I leave a small square of white paper towel under lid on top of the wax to use next time. I found old T-shirt material removes it better than paper towel.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks for the tip

[@MikeGoode]

I use Renaissance Wax on hand planes after I restore them. Didn't think of using it as a finish on small projects.

[@BDistoshortforahandle]

Sick flow Rob lol. I like a variety of waxes because they (usually) leave the woodgrain popping, but don't change the color. Wax is where it's at. Only problem imo is that it's like linseed oil, and if something is getting a lot of wear, it needs a new coat every couple of years. Cheers from the mitten state across the line

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Yes I agree and mentioned that in the video several times

[@johnhubbard6262]

Yup, love this stuff

[@מעייןהמלבלבתחייםםםם]

Thanks for sharing, love the new intro!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Frick’s idea

[@dukeengine1339]

Nice intro, I had to go back to it three times! 😄👍🏻

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks for the feedback

[@steverochon1620]

Wow, I haven’t seen a new vid in awhile. Your flow is sick bro! You’re ready for the Minnesota HS Hockey Playoffs!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Yea we had a dry spell

[@bhafferman]

Have you tried Odies oil? It takes an hour to dry and you have to work it into the grain but I absolutely love it for table tops. Not having to have a super clean shop to put on a finish was such a game-changer for me. It’s a little pricey but the amount of surface it covers makes the price pretty reasonable in my opinion. Thanks for the video, I enjoyed it!

[@Borescoped]

Odie’s is all I use now for my projects, both the regular and the dark versions. Smells great, not easy to master, but the results speak for themselves IMO.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Luther really likes Odies but the products are very different. Each has their used

[@watermain48]

I've been gone from the site for a while. Wow, what a different look...I do like that wax.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

And the site????

[@russelltherealestateguy7527]

Thanks Rob. Love your new intro. Thanks for the content!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks tor the feedback

[@joehirschegger7723]

Hat's off to Frick for those production values!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Do t forget Luther… he is the producer / writer

[@josephoconnor3092]

Great product, I use it over oil finish without an issue.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks for the tip

[@philaandrew100]

I have been using Ren wax since I started in Luthiery in the mid '80s.. For something that has been around since the '50s I am somewhat surprised it hasn't been more widely used by fine woodworkers.

[@emersonassis7154]

Wow one more amazing finish advise/tip...I never heard about before...reading about they created in 1950 for use at museum pieces conservation...the price is high but it do an amazing job...so it pays for itself...I loved how it was in tulip wood...this wood smells pretty good ...as Brazilian I have lot of contact with it...one more time thanks for sharing...I need this wax Congratulations from Brazil

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks for watching. I wish we had tulip wood like you

[@mikeking7470]

Renaissance Wax has been used on photos for over 50 years. New use for an old friend.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Its got lots of uses. Being ph neutral is likely why its good on pictures

[@Dragon_With_Matches]

Judging from what I can see on through the camera, it looks like it really does a nice job with the figured woods more than the others. Thanks for sharing, I’m gonna try that out! I’m making a small memorial keepsake box and have been contemplating all the finishing options. This might be it!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Let me know how you like it when you try it

[@garyleonard9178]

I have used it on ancient coins as well as some wood projects. It does have a strong smell, my wife will complain if don't let the piece air out before I bring in the house. It is a petroleum micro-crystalline wax, so it may be a good idea to use gloves and a well ventilated area

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Yes its a highly refined petroleum distillate. The product safety sheet does not say you need any PPE, but it dosent hurt

[@richardgoebel226]

I absolutely hate spending as much time finishing a box as I did making it. Thanks for bring this product to our attention.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

You and me both!!

[@charles888]

Rob, if you haven't already, you might like to try Odie's Oil. It is similarly quick and easy to apply, looks pretty similar to the result you are getting with Renaissance Wax, is similarly "non-toxic", similarly requires only one application and is similarly easy to repair and re-coat. The advantage that it has over Renaissance Wax is that once fully cured - about three weeks - it will not water-mark. A wet glass, for example, can be left on it for hours and leave no mark. Although expensive, a small amount goes along way: a box similar to yours would use about 1/2 teaspoon or less.

[@jonromanakis9048]

If you like Odie's, give SEE Finishes a try. SEE Two is a hard wax just like Odie's. Comes in a larger container, for cheaper. I prefer it.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

They are not really similiar. Odies is a canuba and bees wax mix with a citrus solvent. Its non toxic, is harder which makes it a bit harder to apply. Does not shine as bright due to the natural impurities in the wax which refracs the light. Rennasance is not food safe, is made from distilled wax from petrolium. Its dofter than carnuba but its molecules align so it does not refract light giving a more brillant shine

[@charles888]

@@jonromanakis9048 Thanks for the suggestion. I couldn't fine any information of "SEE Finishes". Do you have a link to a source or manufacturer? Thanks.

[@frankhill9527]

Interesting, I will have to give it a try. On small things it looks like it can really speed up the finishing process.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Definitely!

[@roverboat2503]

I use Briwax and Osmo. Osmo is really tough and they have lots of different types of wax including water repellent, food safe etc. Briwax has a tremendous range of colours which when used with or without wood stain, can make standard UK pine look like anything.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Osmo and bri are both natural carnauba and bees wax mixture in a natural oil solvent. Rennassance is a petroliem distillate. Rennasance shines brither due the others are harder.

[@davecorlett7326]

I've had good results with Mahoney's oil wax finish. Also pricey but easy to apply.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Luther really like Oddies wax

[@louiefrancuz3282]

Renaissance Wax is also excellent for firearms.

[@Mike.DeNinno]

That's interesting, I have only used Renaissance Wax for preventing rust on my cast iron.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Works great for that too

[@danthechippie4439]

Hi Rob, have you tried Robio? Its fantastic stuff. One coat and your done

[@christianestrada5362]

Nice intro! I've stuck to tung oil and clear polyurethane since it's fairly common. The wax finishes do look very practical and easy to use though

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

You should give it a test

[@jonromanakis9048]

Tung oil is great. I use SEE Finishes because it has tung oil and natural waxes in it. Fantastic product.

[@jasonadrian2887]

Any idea how it looks on wenge? Will it dry white in the grain?

[@brandonhoffman4712]

I'm developing my own paste wax, following in the footsteps of master woodworkers. I changed a couple things slightly to make it all food safe once polymerized! I'm still sorting out the wax portion for desired shine level. I feel like it could take half a day of standing water. Perhaps I'll test it if anyone cares.

[@ryanmaly]

Love the new intro, Rob.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Us too

[@BigRaku]

Rob, Lee Valley offers a product called Conservator's Wax that sounds like essentially the same thing, yet at a much lower price. Have you tried it? I haven't tried Renaissance, but will pick up a tin of the LV product to check it out

[@arkansasboy45]

I like the new intro.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks for the feedback

[@thefalcon666]

Ha! New animation is awesome!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks for commenting on that. We wanted to change things up

[@HighOctaneSD]

I'm going to give Osmo a try, on cherry. It's a oil wax combo. I'm just a bit concerned about blotching.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Osmo is a completely different wax, not a microcrystalline wax. It uses Carnauba wax candelilla and walnut oil as the solvent. Not better or worse just different. It's not an apples to apples comparison. Luther really like Oddies Wax its carnauba based and use citrus as a solvent. A microcrystalline wax has different properties because of its petroleum base so they do different things

[@rogerboucher1913]

Who’s Luther?

[@yannisvaroufakis9395]

I was excited about the Renaissance wax finish until you showed the pine sample and commented, "Pine...ehh." I'm making a chest of drawers and shelves for my son out of pine. What is your preferred finish for pine?

[@daveyshmavey]

Ive used this finish as the last part of my 5 step finish. Yes it pricey, but it actually lasts a long time because you use so little. I put it over cured polyurethane and it helps remove the plastic feeling. Not just it alone, but my process.

[@ksojoel]

maybe you have tried rubio monocoat before, if so do you think renaissance last more per ounce?

[@SamsTopBarBees]

I've been using this Renaissance Wax on various things for a while now, mostly tool surfaces. It does smell like turpentine, and the wood you use it on will darken a bit then as the volatiles evaporate it will mostly lighten back to it's original color, I don't think this product has oil in it, so you wont get that oiled look. Nice vid, thanks for sharing.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks for watching

[@kevinmccann316]

Be interesting to see how it holds up to longer term exposure. Looks like a nice finish for repairing though.

[@garyleonard9178]

I used it on an iroko shelf mat for the shower. Tung oil coats, followed by a coat of Ren wax. been in place for 9 months, have wiped it off twice since then, still looks nice

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Its been around for a while. Develop long time ago by the british museum because other waxes didn't hold up or yellowed over the long haul. This is all they now use on their collection for the last 75 years and they say it holds up great

[@paulnordin5219]

Love it. I bought some Renaissance wax a few months ago when I saw you use it in a different video. But before it arrived I started to experiment with Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (which I love). I'll try the Renaissance Wax this week...looks very sweet. BTW- I'm, least as intrigued by the dovetail cabinet sub-assembly on you desk. which looks amazing.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Its part of the cabinet in the background

[@3koningen]

I use Renaissance Wax for my fountain pens and even for leather.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

The shine it leaves on pens is awesome

[@SnakeAndTurtleQigong]

Thanks so much

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

You bet

[@joshjosh2126]

thanks for the recc

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

You bet

[@kkluber1]

Thanks for a great video. How well do you think this finish would work for cutting boards?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Not good. Its not food safe. I recommend Doctor’s Microcrystalline wax with walnut oil or Odies wax (Odies is carnauba not microcrystalline) but both are food safe

[@artswri]

I've used it at times. Some woods look better than others with it, as you noted. I'm still searching for the perfect easy / looks great / idiot proof finish. Currently trying and struggling with shellac; love it's no VOC, but can't get rid of runs and ripples. Thanks for another great video. Also like the cool new intro!

[@Madmoody21]

Runs and ripples in Shellac. You are putting on shellac too thick or not enough time between coats. If you are doing it right it will take at least 2x - 3x the number of coats to get any buildup. Buy it in flakes cans can be too old right off the shelf and set slower. Take the time to learn a little French polishing it is well worth it. I knew a guy who got paid allot of money to touch up very high end pianos his list of customers was quite interesting.

[@artswri]

@@Madmoody21 I have non wax from can, tried 1/3 and 1/2 thinned. I find shellac very fiddly, no fun at all.

[@spycedezynuk]

Encurtis has a good video on his diy finishes, haven’t tried myself but he makes some nice boxes and it looks good too me

[@Borescoped]

Personally I use the Odie’s Oil product lineup, takes a little bit to master it, and have to use all of it very sparingly, but once you get the hang of it, it’s simple and looks awesome. Tung oil based so very durable. Just make sure you apply sparingly, leave it for the recommended amount of time and really BUFF IT ALL OFF. Like you would removing wax on your vehicle after application.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks for the feedback

[@planespeaking]

Products I like. Osmo oil and their various products and Fiddles hard wax oil. As well as standard oil and beeswax finishes. Finishes can really make or break a piece. Osmo polyx is great because it goes on like linseed oil but is completely waterproof.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Both of those are good organic wax products. Different from Rennasance which is in organic wax based

[@J.A.Smith2397]

Finally got me a saw tooth marking knife from ya n waiting on my crosscut saw from ya! Already got my Shawn shim lol

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Start cutting some dovetails!

[@What_Other_Hobbies]

Nice intro, Mr Cosman. With a little more work, wax finish can be a lot cheaper and may bring a little better protection than paste wax in general. Beeswax, in a heat resistance container, heat it up with a heat gun, and heat up the surface you are about to apply wax, grab a rag or similar applicator with a hemostat or any pliers that can lock at closed position, rub heated wax to heated wood surface. Maintain some heat during application; it helps wax to sip into wood better. Let waxed surface cool down, and buff excess wax off. Beeswax is pretty affordable if you have a farmer's market close to you, or from various retailers. Most people probably have a heat gun and some sort of locking pliers. Give it a try.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Yes lots of waxes out there. The advantage to microcrystallain wax is it wont yellow over time as all organic waxes do and it has a brighter shine due to its molecular structure verses natural waxes, but more expensive. Depends on what you want

[@Sadowsky46]

Product description recommends it for metals. Maybe simply mineral wax with some dissolvents?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Its distilled petroleum was with mineral spirit solvents

[@caliber2410]

I'm a bit new to the finishing game, but i've started using Odie's wax in a very similar way you have as a surface finish. Comes out fairly nice, with minimal effort. What do you think of that as an alternative? Its a bit expensive, and you have to be careful on how much you use (easy to add too much).

[@rogerboucher1913]

What about Rubio monocoat? Good stuff also, easy to apply tough finish.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Cannot find SEE finishes on an internet search. Can you be more specific?

[@Jack-es9xq]

Hello. I'm Rob Cosman, welcome to my shop. It is not a barber shop 😀. In all seriousness, thanks for all you do.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

But its not a barber shop…its an anti-barber shop

[@kennethleitner1337]

A question for Rob: Where do you get your foam brushes? The one you are using seems to be stronger and 'better built' then what is available at local home centers. Those seem to disintegrate after a short period of use.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

At the local hardware store that is next to me

[@spycedezynuk]

Royal talens make pretty good ones I’ve probably spelled it wrong. it’s an art supply manufacturer

[@micah_noel]

I'm a new subcriber and have been watching some of your videos for tool and woodworking tips. But this one caught my eye because of your boxes. I looked through your website and didn't see that they were for sale anywhere. I actually build musical instruments that were originally inspired by cigar box guitars and I've considered working with someone who could batch out a dozen or so nice looking boxes similar in style and size as the ones in this video for me to use. I have no idea how much this could cost me but I'd be interested in hearing some ideas.

[@clemoniii]

Interesting, and i might try it on some metals, but I've not advanced to the point that I make things that "don't get used".

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Great comment

[@r.parker1933]

Any thoughts on using something like a heat gun or hair dryer to see if the wood absorbs any more into the surface? I'd be curious to see if there is any more protection.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Never tried it with this stuff

[@Tstrother6691]

How does this compare to Rubio Monocoat?

[@JohnMark61355]

I do not use hand planes, my guess is few woodworkers do, I sand to 220-400 depending on the circumstances. Will this finish work as well for those of us who use sandpaper?

[@niklasjespersen9903]

Hey Rob. Is this the same wax you use for your drawer sides for reduced friction?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

It is but not exclusive

[@thirdstreetwoodwerks]

Have you tried Rubio monocoat on your boxes? If so, what is your opinion?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I have not

[@dpmeyer4867]

cool, thanks

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

You bet

[@LeftKinect]

What are your thoughts on osmo polyx hard wax oil?

[@TWC6724]

I’d be curious on that as well. Seems like a good wax to try.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Osmo is good but its completely different. Osmo is a carnauba and bees was mix with a food save solvent. Rennasance is a petroleum distillate wax

[@christianmccone2397]

Looks great. Would you use this on larger projects such as tables or dressers?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Not by itself. Its not tough enough for hard use pieces such as those

[@dpmeyer4867]

I use Odie's Oil

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Luther really likes Odies

[@Zomfoo]

I’ve ordered a custom front door made of knotty alder. The makers fee to finish the door is absurdly high in my opinion, so I’ve decided to finish it myself. I don’t want to darken the wood much. I was thinking of using teal oil with some topcoat. What would you suggest to finish a house front door?

[@andrewgould2118]

Great video as always, Thank you. An unrelated question. I have just watched your video from 2 years ago showing how to use a shooting board. My question is; Is there any advantage to chamferring both ends of the end grain? Would this not make it easier to meet your finished line, as the blade would initioally hit a sloped edge rather than square? Cheers, Andy, South West England.

[@joelprevette4514]

I'm building a wagon vise into my workbench. Would you recommend using something like this wax on the vise pieces?

[@sigurbjornragnarsson1886]

Woah! New intro?👍

[@robertbamford8266]

Nice and compact !

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks for the feedback

[@David_K_pi]

Rob, you don't have to use that much of the Renaissance Wax each time. A little bit goes a long way. I was shocked to see you glob that much on each piece and then buff most of it off. Try using a much smaller amount and see if you get similar results. The Renaissance Wax won't seem so expensive that way. And yes, it's a great product.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

But I buy wholesale !! Yes you ate correct.

[@williamdonnelly2967]

Can you use this over an old Waterlox finish?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Of course

[@theblokevlog352]

Rob, you need to use this stuff sparingly; no need to trowel it on! I'm about to make a few of your boxes and will certainly use RW as I've had a couple of pots in my 'shop here in the UK for at least a decade, if not longer. The blurb on the tin says it's used in the British Museum; if it's good enough for the BM it's good enough for the likes of thee and me.

[@pedroclaudio3401]

Renaissance wax is a petroleum based product that contains white spirit for 80% and microcristalline wax made from crude oil (petroleum). It is basically a mineral spirit that comes in the form of wax.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Yes absolutely

[@philliparudolph9595]

for wood work is it advantageous to us ceramic coating over this wax?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Ceramic coating? I have never tried that. Give me an example of a ceramic finish product

[@clydecopeland1997]

Love the new intro

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks