How To Sharpen A Hand Saw | Rip Saw

[@wgiver4231]

Thank you. As a young guy (22) with no one to teach me these types of skills, videos like this one are a gold mine. Makes it hard for my generation to make excuses when guys like you exist! I'm truly grateful for KZbin and people like you (and so is my saw LOL).

[@danielcote7475]

Work construction you'll find a buncha part time dads

[@clarenced4090]

I second this comment, 27 and have no one to teach me stuff like this. Appreciate it

[@mrhobbs5713]

I was a carpenter for 52 years and I still find something new in your videos. You’re a natural.

[@DoctorMangler]

Thank you so much for these wonderful hand saw videos. I'm a plumber, mostly I use a circular saw or sawzall for my work, but more and more I find I like to take my toolbox saw for cutting backing wood for the plumbing. No batteries, no cords and damn near no mess. It's usually faster because of that and I don't have to sweep or vac my whole jobsite, I just kick the little pile of dust under the customers rug. :P

[@jessevance8455]

I’m a contractor myself so yup the old rug cover up! 😂 (Not really tho I know you were joking).

[@JohnDoe-qz1ql]

🤣

[@adriancatoe5276]

Thank you so much. I picked up a Disston saw for 4 bucks from a goodwill a few years back and i just got around to restoring it. This video held the last piece. Sharpening. Thanks for being a dad to some of us out here who did not have one.

[@stanp1104]

Probably the best explanation about sharpening a rip saw that I have seen. Thanks.

[@alanfarnworth2802]

really useful, especially the bit about choosing the right size file

[@mikaruonala2297]

Great vid - I was just about on my workshop to sharpen the saw when you explicitly said don’t try with saw with hardened teeth. Saved me from the trouble!

[@iwu2011]

Thanks so much for making this. I took my recently purchased D8 from an MWTCA event and sharpened it without much trouble. Great video!

[@PaulJRobichaud]

Thanks for explaining how to choose the right size file. I had to figured it out by myself way back when was learning. A lot of tutorials seem to skip this..

[@muanlian6845]

The first time I sharpened my saw, it became sharper but didn't look good at all and took me about two hours. Now when I sharpen it it looks good and takes about 5 mins for a rip cut saw and about 15 to 20 mins for a cross cut saw. All thanks to you James.

[@johnford7847]

Very informative and very encouraging, James. I've watched enough videos with handsawing to recognize how quickly a sharp saw can cut - but I still haven't worked up the nerve to try to sharpen my grandfather's 10 point crosscut. Your suggestion to buy some flea market saws for practice is a good idea. Thanks for sharing.

[@bigoldgrizzly]

I was taught by my grandfather well over 50 years ago on old saws in really bad shape. Getting thrown in at the deep end is a good way to learn and I still have, and use, a couple of these saws. Flea market saws are the best way to learn how to completely re-tooth a saw. If you make a mess of it, work out where you went wrong, then file off all the incriminating evidence and try again.

[@MCsCreations]

Thanks a bunch for all the tips, James! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊 And happy holidays!

[@bl5240]

Thanks the video I needed when I needed it by my favorite woodworking KZbinr

[@liquidrockaquatics3900]

I basically grew up in a small engine repair shop and the business was shared by a guy that cut keys, sharpened saw blades, and rented U-haul trailers. He was gone a lot so my dad was often cutting keys , but the saw sharpening was always the old guy and he had a metal two jaw vice with around 30” arms and a retractable bolt apparatus to hold circular saw blades so that the bars held about 10-2 o’clock between them and let that section be worked on, or removed for hand saws. He would go down the line skipping every other tooth, flip the saw, then do the same. Then he would pull out the tooth set (I assume if needed) and go to town like a dentist getting paid per… tooth… but he never tried to work from both sides, he always flipped the saw

[@asimadil9964]

Your way of telling every minor tips are so helpful to understand easily... Very very well explained each and every thing... Love from Pakistan ❤️

[@johnbart3746]

Timing was almost perfect with this one! I was very much bent out of shape selecting saw files a few weeks ago :)

[@rondoironborn5419]

Luv the details and explanations. My brain thinks that way so your vids are not only entertaining and easier to understand but I also learn more faster. Thanks! 13:29

[@DonsWoodies]

Couple years ago watched a video from you and one from Paul Sellers. Then took a cheap old handsaw I had for literally 40 years that never cut well, and I hadn't used it for decades. Bought a file and sharpened it. That first time took me a couple hours probably, but the saw cut like a champ after that. Since then I've gotten much faster and have no trouble sharpening lots of saws. Still not good enough to do a dovetail saw with 15 tiny little teeth but maybe someday. Like you say, it's not hard to do, just takes some practice.

[@ricos1497]

If you can do a big one, you can do a little one. Give it a go, it's no different really, just a smaller file. If eyesight is an issue, pick up one of those magnifying glass visor things (Rob cosman often wears one) to help.

[@jessevance8455]

My goodness, thank you so much for this video. My saw was getting “sharp” but no where close to it’s potential. Kinda funny but it even stays sharper a lot longer now. Big thank you for this well made video.

[@cdstover2000]

Great tips. Just got my first saws and I’m looking forward to putting these in practice.

[@guseletov]

thank you for the advice on saw file size selection! Very valuable for me!

[@markelder1345]

Great video. Liked your thoughts on sharpening from one side & the simple test of just trying it out. Looking forward to the next saw sharpening videos.

[@georgestgeorge5110]

I bought my saws at habitat for humanity restore. Good old saws for 2 to 5 bucks. You can grab one just to practice sharpening if you want at almost no cost. Great place for old tools. (Often never used.)

[@paco_vazquez]

Excellent information, as always. Thanks James!

[@Win52D]

You inspired met o check out my saws today thinking at least one of would need sharpening. Sadly 😛they all cut straight and fast so no need to play with the files and vise yet. Thanks for the lesson. Looking forward to the crosscut video as I have 2 crosscut saws that I will eventually have to sharpen.

[@aaron82435]

You are amazing and thank you for sharing your knowledge!

[@JoeWalsh786]

Very useful; thanks for posting!

[@martink8080]

When you were filing the saw teeth in the saw vise, the close-up view showed the saw visibly bending from the file pressure. Was the saw vise not tight enough or is this normal movement?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

normally I would want the teeth a bit lower in the vice so they would not do that as much. but with the big hand saw there is not enough space before it hits the screws. so for these big saws it sticks up a bit more. it is not ideal, but it is not bad.

[@marcbarash6045]

Thanks James, really easy to see and do.

[@danielrae861]

You’re a champion sir. Thank you for this vid - it was helpful as. Keep on 👏

[@AliakberLokhandwala-ey9hj]

Dear Mr. James, is it possible to convert a rip cut saw in to a cross cut saw by reteething it or by altering the teeth geometry of the existing teeth ?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Yes. That is fairly common. Just change the file angle.

[@AliakberLokhandwala-ey9hj]

Thank you so much for answering my question.

[@justin-tv3pc]

do i need to do the first step of filing the tops of the teeth if its a brand new saw I just want to make sharper?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

yes jointing the teeth lets you know you brought them all down tot he same height. you might get away with just counting the storks with he file but if you are not carful that can lead to problems,.

[@justin-tv3pc]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo oh wow, I can't believe you answered! especially so quick. Thanks.

[@Musicpins]

How often do you joint the teeth? Couple of sharpenings?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I usually do it on every sharpening. It's a good indication of making sure all the teeth the same height.

[@makermark67]

Great information, James. Thank you

[@perrymurphy4100]

Thank you for the great info James

[@RonMack07]

Hey James love your saw videos I've picked up a thing or 2 from each one, I was given a saw for Christmas last year and it's a western style 20" rip saw with induction hardened teeth I noticed from use I found a couple of cracks so I got my torch and blew the hardening away in a couple of minutes, most saws are made with 1095 steel the same steel some knives are made of from now on I'll just heat up the teeth down the line until I see it turn to more of a dark straw color and it's able to be sharpened again, the tempering process brings down the hardness so the steel is not brittle this is not done with any of the saws I've looked at old style saws same type steel just not hardened.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

correct. most good saw are tempered to spring steel that is relatively soft. you got off lucky softening those teeth. most people who try it end up with a warped plate.

[@JackFright]

Question, James. You run your stone down the set but Paul Sellers in his video on fixing the set for the Spear and Jackson taps it with a hammer. Does it matter which way that is done and if so, when do you do the stone and when do you break out the hammer? Looking forward to the other videos in this series as well.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Some people like to use the hammer. But I have found that to weekend the tooth as it is not good to bend it back and forth. Also with the hammer it is very easy to bend it back too far too quickly. With the stone it is very easy to sneek up on the perfect amount without stressing the teeth more then they need.

[@JackFright]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo So let it be written, so let it be done :) my Spear and Jackson backsaw gets some attention this weekend and that will be part of it.

[@steh8217]

Have you ever tried an Eclipse no 38 saw sharpening jig?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

yes. I have one and a few others. generally I prefer freehand

[@bigoldgrizzly]

I do use hardpoint saws from time to time when there is a higher risk of meeting nails screws or other debris in the wood. They can be re-sharpened using diamond files which are pretty cheap these days, though sharpening is somewhat slower. I absolutely prefer well sharpened vintage saws with handles actually designed to fit the hand. These are a dime a dozen at yard sales and just need some TLC but, for me, it does not feel right to use them in circumstances where there is a higher likelihood of them suffering damage. Quite a few of my saws are well over 100 years old and I like to think they will still be in good shape a hundred years from now

[@sparrowhawk81]

It pays to go to the habitat restore or similar place once a week or so. Amazing saws show up there sometimes. I got an old handsaw there once for $5 that has amazing rip teeth and is dead straight and is even still sharp. Covered in patina and looks "dirty" but chews through wood like a beast.

[@martydom666]

I just got into woodworking seen a Stanley 55 set with 48 blades but missimg the left fence and a tighten screw on the adjustable skate. Also bought a decent saw and some chisels at a couple antique stores.

[@kenthansen3557]

My recommendation is, "Don't wait too long!" I recently jointed and sharpened my 5 ½ ppi rip saw thinking it "needed a touchup." After sharpening, the saw ripped ¾ white oak at a rate of about an inch and a quarter per stroke...prior to sharpening,it only took about ¼ inch per stroke...summation...I was wayyyyy overdue!

[@thebulletproofpoet1744]

Teeth keenly whisper, Hands guide the saw's rebirth dance, Sharper echoes sing.

[@hollax3073]

i went to a carpentory school in hungary im 1st grader and it is very slow i think i learn faster bye watching your vids so thx for thees vids love and keep them good and good if u have some tips for beginners ..... u know im alwasy watching (:

[@steh8217]

Will next week's video be on sharpening a cross cut saw?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

not next week but coming up soon here.

[@steh8217]

Have you played around with an Eclipse no 38? I'm assuming they weren't great or they'd still be in production. But in theory they sound great. Might get one just to play around with.

[@Imperator-el4nt]

How do I know whether my saw has a ripcut or a crosscut? And is there a way to find out whether my saw can be sharpened or whether it is too hard? I have a few antique saws that I'm not sure about. I also don't know the exact age of them

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

if the saw was purchased from a big box store then it has hard teeth. if it was made in the 80s or older it probably has soft teeth. Rip Vs Crosscut: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bIPYmYmegNF3mbMsi=cb0XeNKs4ShU_DT3 Short version: kzbin.infoeOd9ptAgPC4

[@Imperator-el4nt]

👍🫶

[@frankmagaro6686]

Wow a lot to know for a simple task!

[@chriscollins9717]

Hi, do you have any links to the saw stone you use phrase?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

yes the links for all the tools and the saw file are in the description.

[@chriscollins9717]

Are you certain? I only have links to old videos, but that could just be me 😅

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

yup. they are links 6 and 7 down the list. here you go. Files I use: www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/files-and-rasps/files/110473-set-of-6-bahco-saw-sharpening-files-and-roll?item=62W3320 Veritas Saw Sharpening guide: www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/files-and-rasps/files/70465-veritas-saw-file-holder

[@chriscollins9717]

Thank you. For some reason they are not showing up on my phone

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

oh ya if you watch shorts on the phone you can not use links. for have to see them on a desktop or watch them out of the shorts feed.

[@gilbertramirez3173]

Do you ever sharpen the saw from the big box store?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Generally no. Those come with hardened teeth and they will destroy a file. If you do want to sharpen them, you have to grind the teeth off and then cut in new teeth.

[@gilbertramirez3173]

@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you, I did not know any if this, really appreciate your videos

[@michaeldoto4673]

Thank you James! I’m curious, how much rake did you have on that rip saw? What’s your preference on dovetail saws?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

About 28 degrees so the front of the tooth is almost vertical.

[@tomtodd6627]

great video

[@johnduffy6546]

After watching a dozen or more videos on this topic, I believe your version is the one I'll run with. I've seen several where they run the file forward and backward...That just creeps me out...Do they not know any better?

[@AliakberLokhandwala-ey9hj]

Dear Mr. James, can you go into finer details and explain about wearing the middle of the file faster then the rest ? And what if a slim taper, slim or non tapering file is used which perfectly fits between the teeth without any of its portion sticking out ? If a perfect fitting file can be used, why have you used a bigger one ?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

if the file fits all the way down in then it is twice as small as it should be. The reason is the tip of the tooth will wear out the dace of the file twice as fast and the round at the bottom of the gullet will be too small for the larger tooth. this will become a stress point that could lead to the tooth breaking. the file is sized so that you basically have 3 files in one. and each corner of the file can be used all the way untell it wears out. if the tooth comes past the halfway point on the face of the file then you will wear our that center section twice as fast. because when you rotate the file to another corner then the next point will rub that center section wearing it out twice as fast as the corner. and the center section is the important part as that is what sharpens the cutting edge of the tooth. I hope that makes sense

[@AliakberLokhandwala-ey9hj]

Thank you so much for answering my question.

[@AllanMacMillan]

A nice informative video you can really sink your teeth into.

[@mattjmalpass]

Thank you.

[@ianwilliamson2980]

man that was intresting .i was wondering if there is a tool to sharpen a saw but cant find one like have for knives

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It is just the triangular file. Even the automatic machine still use a triangular file.

[@ianwilliamson2980]

@WoodByWrightHowTo ok thanks .will just have to dothat then .i thought it would take ages doing each tooth but after watching you it don't look too bad

[@natewarner359]

Thank you for the video

[@minymax4819]

I’m glad I saw this Video!!

[@donaldroberts7055]

Great tips!

[@masterball2928]

Very helpful video. But the sound of the file against the saw makes my teeth ache.😂😂😂

[@Apillicus]

Thanks!

[@kennethnielsen3864]

Thanks for sharing.

[@J.A.Smith2397]

My guy, what a ripping yarn

[@1paparico]

Did he use a saw set? did I miss that?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

That is a separate operation. Some people do it at the same time but generally you only need to set the teeth every 4 to 6 sharpenings. I've got a couple videos on that as well.

[@lelandallen]

Sharp!

[@steh8217]

Also, comment down below 😁

[@timothymallon]

I'd love to see what you do with a saw when there's a few broken teeth and you need to start over from scratch. I have one such saw currently that I was given, and I would really like to do it, but I'm not sure what the best method is.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

usually if there are less then 10 broken teeth I just file as normal after a few sharpenings they are back to new. if there is more then that there may be a hardening issue with the plate and it is too brittle. Or it has been over set and the teeth were bent back and forth too much. in that case the best thing is file them all off and cut new teeth.

[@jonwyatt262]

I use steel bars to clamp the blade so the file doesn't chatter.

[@davewest6788]

Wicked shahp video guy

[@robertberger8642]

Good!

[@ryanbailey5167]

Awesome :)

[@WoodenBoatBen]

“you CanT Doo tHAt!!” - people who have only done it one way.

[@DillyDally024]

Oh my God, the noise, though. I have to wear noise canceling headphones. It gets under my skin.

[@carlson.douglas.w]

My favorite Mad Scientist of the WW World! Let's see now.... Great video, clear content joyfully conducted? Check. Advice/methodology that eschews arrogance and gives me something i can actually use? Double check Science nerd T-shirt? Check check check. It's official. This is an official Wood By Wright vid and NOT an identical alien imposter. Whew.

[@okgroomer1966]

I gotta get my hand tool skills better. I always wanted to make something nice 100% by hand but paying projects always take priority and most of my hand tool collect dust. Perhaps this will ve the year.

[@cheeseheadfiddle]

Excellent video. Information packed it. Minimal BS.

[@Sidetrackt469]

I saw the potential

[@gordonmccall5263]

Comment down below.

[@coryingman]

In your other video about all types of 'hand' saws, you say multiple times that a "hand saw is twenty-four inches or longer", but in this video you say this is a hand saw "because it is over twenty-SIX inches". Just thought about that and wanted some clarification, if it hasn't been asked already. If it has: my bad, carry on.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It's not a specific amount. It's somewhere around that. It is the longest of the one-handed panel saws.

[@BakerVS]

I'd argue for going straight to high quality files, the difference is quite noticeable. With cheap files, to me the movement felt very stuttering and rough, and they soon wore out, especially on the small in between faces. When I looked into ordering high quality files, I discovered that triangular files weren't that much more expensive than big box stuff. (Plus, in my case I'm lucky that Vallorbe is only two hours drive away and that they ship straight from the factory).

[@vincethomrm]

Aloha 🤙

[@jrk1666]

A great tip from Paul is to cut the bottom of the gullet with a hack saw to keep the bottom of the file from touching it thus extending the life of the file

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

That one I don't buy as it is not the point of the file that wears out first but the face. It is good for starting when you need to locate the file.

[@Fusion_Woodworking]

RIP tooth.

[@thomasarussellsr]

🎶To all the teeth I've broken, before.🎶 RIP

[@pettere8429]

This video should have been 7s longer...

[@ping170]

Comment down below down below down below... Well, you got it !

[@imortaldeadead]

Comments here

[@robertspeer]

Super tuning is fun for weirdo’s, but… has limited utility. I do like the way I look in a highly polished tool though… 😊

[@thomasarussellsr]

The real plus to highly polished saw/tools, is you can read the reflection as a sort of angle finder for true straight 90s and to get make a marker line seem so much wider and easier to follow. If the line shows on both sides of the kerf, you're centered on your mark. If you use a thinner line, like a sharp marking knife makes, it leads to tighter fitting joints, with practice. Also, a highly polished blade can often glide more smoothly when using a saw with very little set. Polished is not necessarily all about vanity. Though, for those who like seeing themselves, I suppose it can partly be about vanity. Some even call it pride in a job well done, when the tools look new or better than new when they are done sharpening/tuning them.

[@dannewton7873]

Harry Potter.

[@warrenmunn3224]

I find most Saws are dull, they are generally not very interesting conversationalist. P.S. I was looking for your Video of making the most basic of handles and couldn't find it (the ugliest chisel handle ever)

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Are you talking about this one. kzbin.infofM_C89PNMOg

[@dpmeyer4867]

saw

[@gandalf6434]

Sad news. Love to all

[@robertdavis171]

What about surface rust? Ignore it. Oil the sides so it doesn't grab in the cut. Sand off and put a protective coat over it. Use acid to neutralize it and oil or was the surface.

[@jameslouder]

Someone might ask, if you're going to be filing all the teeth at the same angle, why not just file them at 90 degrees? I can think of two reasons. First, the angled cutting edge cuts more gradually, hence more easily. Second, the angled face of the tooth clears the sawdust more easily. The latter could be an argument in favour of alternating the angle of the teeth, since it will clear the sawdust more evenly. This should make the stroke still easier and maybe less likely to wander. In theory. In practice--gotta try it!

[@SharnappaGanagond]

This saw videos of kannada

[@brooklynpaul4003]

Your saw-sharpening videos are getting shorter and pithier. Good job.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

thanks for the feed back a lot of the time people say I talk too much. but this was longer then the last two I made.

[@mikearchibald744]

The end part should have been first because many just want the info and may not have watched to the end. New store bought saws are usually garbage but have hardened teeth so you are wasting your time trying to sharpen them.

[@bilbobaggins7467]

Dont fight and over pressure that blade ,u know better.

[@ssrattus]

Thanks!

[@davidlynn7161]

Comment down below.