The Truth - Rubio Monocoat Really That Good?

Is Rubio Monocoat all it is cracked up to be?
Rubio Monocoat pure: amzn.to/3G45ZxW
Wood Whisperer's video: • How to Apply Rubio Mon...
Are Rubio Monocoat products really that good? In this video, we test out Rubio Monocoat to see if it's really that great!
After using Rubio Monocoat for half a decade, it is now my go-to finish for furniture and woodworking. The protection of Rubio Monocoat is top notch and nothing beats that smell!
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[@ray-ux9cp]

I just applied this product to a greenland style kayak paddle, definitely an endurance test, it goes on easily, and not too difficult to buff out, looks great, smells good too, a lot easier than linseed and wax, thanks for your video as I have had some difficulty finding proper instruction from the company, the technical sheet doesnt say much, just wait 12 hours to cure, so the information you supplied has certainly helped a lot

[@mileshh515]

Thanks for the review, I appreciate your honesty and trustworthiness

[@paco_vazquez]

Thanks James! This is why I love this channel, impartial information about great products

[@sanjaraejour9632]

Thank you for sharing about this! I hadn't even heard of it, but now I really want to get some to use as it sounds fantastic.

[@davidjordonmiller9686]

This is awesome timing, I’ve been overthinking how to finish a small kitchen table and chairs for awhile now. Thank you!

[@SugarCreekWoodwright]

Loved the informative video! Like you have been an oil and poly man for decades, and used my first rubio on a project last month. Love the finish and loved the ease, the cost...well something to get used to.

[@mirodudas8428]

I have found Rubio Monocoat about 15 years ago, and I love it.

[@connorobrien4838]

Great video! Super straightforward and informative

[@MCsCreations]

Fantastic video, James! Thanks! 😃 I just hope products like that end up getting to Brazil as well! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊 And happy new year!

[@myerscok]

Great review. I attended one of Rubio’s workshops a couple of weeks ago. Got hands on with the product. It is so easy to mix the colours to match an existing colour. Fantastic product. Ken, Southport UK

[@pauljordan756]

It does smell great! Great video. Thanks for sharing your process and experience. 👍

[@VivienLEGER]

hey James, thanks for this feed back, been on BLO since the begining, i see many youtuber using this product and i was like .. damn i would give it a try ... and then my blo looks at me angrily .. so does my wallet , and i m back in the old habbits :D I'll give it a try, hope to be as positively pleased as you seems to be!

[@Steensen1981]

Love your positive spirit, the in depth, but still simple explanaitions for "average Joe".

[@chrisdiggs2237]

Been using Rubio almost exclusively for a couple years and love it. I’d recommend using a white Scotch Brite pad as the applicator. Cut off the smallest piece needed rub it in. Thanks for the video.

[@jwayneair]

I second the white scotch pad.

[@GarretRose]

Ok great to know! Thanks for the reply

[@johnkelley9877]

I have never used it but it is something I would like to try. Thanks for the review.

[@poppamad979]

An adamant Poly guy for thirty plus years. Perfectly dry, clean, ventilated(???) and conditioned space required. Apply first coat. Light sand. Rinse repeat three or four times. Last coat, find three paint brush bristles......one more coat. Found Rubio Monocoat through a KZbinr and tried it out maybe two years ago. Amazingly simple. Almost hard to screw up as long as you make sure you remove the excess. Put it on a toy box for my grandkids. Banging in and out of it for over a year now. Drinks sitting on it. Some pretty good test subjects and it still looks awesome. Have started to use it on furniture builds and even refinishing some antiques. Doesn't yellow like Poly. Not killing my lungs. When I have a top that I think will be exposed to liquid, I have tried a ceramic top coat. Will let you know how it works over time, but for most things, I am now a Rubio man. Yes, it is expensive, but for the ease of use and durability, worth every penny.

[@poppamad979]

@@sjb3460 No, I use cutting board oil on cutting boards. I have heard it is food safe, but haven't tried it.

[@johncarroll3089]

Perfect timing…thank you! I am just about done with a coffee table ( hackberry live edge slab) and have been pondering what finish to use. After making some BLO/beeswax per your vid, I was going to do several BLO applications and several coats of the homemade paste wax. Now I think I’ll do Rubio. The table top is from a tree that fell next to our cabin so having a coffee table inside that is from said tree should be great.

[@IanPrest]

I've not used Rubio, but have done some work with Odie's Oil (another hard-wax oil)---mostly on Cherry---and I like it for all the reasons you mention... easy & foolproof to apply, not time-sensitive, doesn't require a completely dust-free environment like poly, smells nice, no VOCs, don't need gloves, hard-wearing, easy-to-repair, etc. It's great to work with. Odie's doesn't have pre-colored oil, but they have (powdered) pigments you can add to create your own colors. I love this stuff too! It's similarly foolproof... the resulting color depends only on the pigment you add, and not on how long you leave the oil before wiping (unlike a stain, which is *very* time sensitive). The only potential drawback w/Odie's is that they don't have a hardener like Rubio does, so a full cure takes a few weeks (though it's OK for light duty after a few days, and it smells nice enough that I don't mind leaving it inside the house while it cures).

[@byal9000]

I used monocoat on for the solid cherry countertop in our laundry room. It sees quite a bit of use, gets wet often, and still looks great. I love it. I'm using it on my table once I'm done.

[@Nick-iz9zo]

This just popped up in my feed at a very appropriate time. I'm not too far off from finishing a dining table and have been agonizing over how to finish it. I think I may have the answer now 😊

[@CSCUVA]

This is fantastic! Been wondering what is so great about Rubio mono-coat.. so many ppl use and mention it but few have explained it this simply. Can't wait to pick some up now. I too love the boiled linseed oil and paste wax finish (Rex Kruger introduced me) but hated that it didn't offer protection! And hated the fake plastic look of built up finishes, thx for the video, simple and to the point!!!

[@arthur2319]

Just cracked open a can of osmo for the first time and I loved it for the same reasons- easy to apply, low VOC, and a nice warm color and natural texture.

[@chrisbresh8817]

Thank you. Cape Falcon Kayaks also recommends Rubio for kayak paddle finishing.

[@ZER0MPH]

Thanks for the great review and video. Rubio Monocoat is new to me, and I really appreciate your detailed thoughts. Liked and subscribed!

[@TheSMEAC]

I’ve used Rubio and Osmo both and have got to say that the color of the two influences my choice quite a bit; but then I’m also thinking the cost shapes even that. If it’s a lighter color like white oak, elm, ash, beech etc, then I’m reaching for Osmo. If it’s walnut, sycamore, black cherry then the Rubio. If it’s quartersawn then absolutely the Rubio. I think they both have their place.

[@plasticmotif43]

I prefer Osmo in most applications. I've finished walnut, mahogany, cherry, oak, and ash with it in the past few years and I've had no complaints or fuss at all. My standard application practice is to wipe a flood coat on with a white scotchbrite pad then wipe off 20 minutes later with an old teeshirt. I don't typically buff it out until the second coat 24 hours later. The second coat I apply with a clean cloth with a thin film layer and again wipe off 20 minutes later. I will say that hard wax oils aren't the best if you work in any cold environment. I think it realistically needs to be 55F or higher. Rubio's colors are noticeably better in my eyes. To be fair I've only used a few offerings from each manufacturer....but even still, I think I prefer Rubio.

[@jamesbreeden9414]

Rubio is my favorite also. Don’t forget precolor raises the grain so unless you knock that down a bit it’s not ok. I’ve got a habit of using black precolor, let it dry for 24 hours. Then use two parts black Rubio along with one part charcoal for a crystal effect on wood you are not trying to bring out the wood color itself.

[@markhopkins7204]

Thanks for sharing an always no nonsense layman's explanation...I've started using either Odies Oil or Tried & True which both appear to provide a handsome, durable finish, but I'll invest the $60 to try this Rubio because you were impressed with its results...with me, nearly everything is R & D..Thanks again!

[@iainmcculloch5807]

I haven't used Rubio Monocoat before, but I'm certainly going to give it a try now.

[@benstradling7615]

Cool finish merry Christmas to you and your family ✌️

[@makermark67]

Absolutely love Rubio. I used it a couple of years ago for the first time on a chest of drawers I built and since then I'll be hard-pressed to use anything else on furniture. Thanks for this one, James.

[@migo-migo9503]

Rubio Monocoat is def my fav as well, but a good alternative is Fiddies. Half the price as Rubio.

[@kirbytate9961]

I have been watching you for years at this point and I never noticed until now that you are a fellow woodworking boardgamer!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

oh yes. lots of family fun there!

[@bshanaman]

I’ve used it on an olive wood console table in a business entrance way and it is holding up great. It is easy and does smell great as well!

[@benvinje]

Thank you for this review. I really appreciate the thoughts of a hand tool woodworker using a modern product. I’ve tried it once on a cherry turn table stand and matching record crates. I loved it, but worried about how well it would last. Seems like a long time given this review

[@JohnWehrle]

Thank you for this review. My woodworking situation and tastes are similar to yours. I'm going to check this product out.

[@JohnWehrle]

Well, I did try it. The natural one. Which was described as having an amber color to me but, in fact, it was just white and made my test pieces of wood look pickled. I took the product back to Rockler and told them I was unhappy. The salesperson said he was sorry I was unhappy but they couldn't do anything about it. So it was just a very costly mistake. I won't be trying Rubio ever again. I don't trust their claims and the cost is just far too high to risk again. I'm just adding this for anyone who happens to come by. I probably should have used pure but I'm just done with this brand and its insane costs and colors.

[@ericpadilla334]

Great intro, thank you!

[@standswithfish]

I will have to give that a try! Currently my go to finish is Howard's Butcher Block finish.

[@hillbillychic3933]

For walnut and cherry it's my go to finish and I will do the maintenance oil after 36 hours to give it a bit more depth and shine. It is an oil though and it gives lighter colored wood that ambering that makes it look like every other lighter colored wood with oil on it. Make sure you use something like Bloxygen or similar to displace the air because it will crust over in the can. If your going to mortgage the house to buy some you better take care of it.

[@jtlong8383]

I love using Rubio; just like you said it is very easy and hard to mess up. I found I like using their applicator pads to rub in the finish. The pad is pretty much non-absorbent, so you don’t lose much Rubio compared to using a cloth applicator. Pour on some finish, use the applicator pad to distribute and buff into the wood, then a few minutes later come back with a clean cloth to remove any excess remaining.

[@kennethnielsen3864]

It looks super. Thanks for sharing.

[@dfs7979]

I had my floors refinished recently and used Pallmann Magic Oil 2K. So far it seems to hold up better than the poly it replaced. Walking on the floor feels like soft velvet. As a bonus they left me the extra oil and hardener for future repairs.

[@rjtumble]

I love my Rubio and now I'm looking forward to receiving Cam's (Blacktail Studio) Nano finish to see how much more it adds from a protection factor.

[@pitsnipe5559]

Have always used either a wipe on poly or a spray (rattle can) lacquer. As well as yours, I’ve seen several videos on Rubio Monocoat, will definitely give it a try.

[@karlgoebeler1500]

Merry christmas and Happy New year

[@lumpy966]

Thanks for the video. Good info.

[@KrisDeVo]

Loved this, thanks!

[@XPI888]

Hello from Finland! I also love simplicity especially about finishes. I hate painting, multiple coats and cleaning up the brushes etc. So far I've mainly used some oil finishes but now I dare to try Rubio Mono coat. Thanks for the explanation and justification for a handtool worker to use mono coat. Though I might find some Finnish finish as an alternative.

[@knutselaardre1272]

First and foremost James, best wishes to you and your family. In Belgium (Flanders), Rubio Monocoat is mainly sold for the treatment of parquet floors. It will therefore have to give a very good protection to the wood.

[@leokenney7446]

I just finished a 60 x 84" hickory dining room extension pedestal table for my daughter and finished it with Rubio. I didn't think one small set of the finish (off hand I cannot remember the volume but it wasn't 1.3 L) would be enough so I bought two. This was the first time I used Rubio. One would have been plenty. Wow it really goes far. Also, It is so fast and easy to apply and looks and feels great. I burnished it with a white Scotch Brite pad as the final finishing touch and it looked great. I am building two low back Maloof inspired chairs out of cherry right now and am definately using Rubio. One reason is that before the final glue up and assembly I can pre-finish the components and if any final adjustments have to be made to the chair after assembly it will be super easy to just finish the unfinished wood without having to worry about having the finish be level. I have been using Maloof's finish (or a version of it) for my chairs and have been happy with the look and feel but 4-5 coats and the fact that the odor lingers for 2-3 months made me try Rubio. So much better.

[@volinarsworkshop2001]

After switching to it for game tables I instantly fell in love with it. Especially being a smell and ease of application are a godssend. When you consider time applying other finish, lower volume usage I would argue you're saving money in finish if you're doing it as a business and can afford it I highly recommend. My dicetrays have never looked better than after I switched!

[@robohippy]

I also like the Rubio monocote. Just started using it, when before, my favorite was the old Deft wipe on poly. There now is a 'ceramic' top cote that originated in the auto paint industry, and now is available for wood. Not sure if Rubio has it or not, but there are several sources.

[@bobsmith3790]

I love your videos! I’ve been a woodworker for a long time and I learn a great deal from you. This finish looks amazing, and you’re right…it’s a little pricey. Prior to mixing the two parts together, what’s the shelf life? Thanks for this.

[@artswri]

Great info, gotta get some

[@matthewhale657]

I love using Rubio Monocoat! It’s become my go to finish for the last two years! It’s so pleasant to use

[@carlreeves9762]

I like boiled linseed oil sometimes I would let it set sit for about a month and put poly on it

[@darrellv8187]

I haven't used Rubio yet, but its on my list to try. Now... my next project will be finished with it.

[@ryanstieglitz8077]

Way late to this video but fantastic insight to Rubio Monocoat. Also, awesome to find out that you are a board gamer! Ticket to Ride, Isle of cats, Seven Wonders, Mysterium, love it!

[@billboy7390]

Thank you for your take. I’ve only just started using this product after years of Lacquer and many dead brain cells Or shellac.

[@nickdarbenzio1681]

Ah James, I was hoping you were going to say no difference, lol. I’m sold. Hope you have a great new year

[@theofarmmanager267]

We are just finishing 2000 plus metres of European oak as coving, skirting, picture rail etc. smoked oak finish was required and we could achieve this with the tinted product. Our experience: - 240 grit finish is fine - we don’t use the accelerator and it dries for handling in hours - apply it with white scotch pad; leave 5 minutes (no need for longer) and wipe off excess - expensive to buy but it goes so far - the cost in material per square metre is easily offset by less labour cost

[@chriscunicelli7070]

Yeah I keep hearing good things. Gonna have to try it.

[@SteveC38]

Great Review!

[@user-zx7eo7nu4b]

Answered all my questions 😎👍

[@andreipopescu983]

I used it for a mahogany door ( as in the main door). And now, three years after, still looks like new. It is , of course , the outdoor version. But, it is the best stuff I have ever used

[@freshcoatpaintingmore9951]

Is your house close to either coast of the US or is it landlocked?

[@andreipopescu983]

It is actually in Danmark. About 800 meters from the sea. A lot of rain and wind

[@webcrawler3332]

Does your door get sunshine on it ? How well does it protect the door from UVs and does it break down like a Helmsman?

[@andreipopescu983]

@@webcrawler3332 It gets sun in the afternoon.

[@freshcoatpaintingmore9951]

Thank you for the response.

[@c.a.g.1977]

Made a few oak samples for a book case I'm going to make, so I ordered the smalle tester cans. First time I ever used it, but, boy it was very easy and it does look and smell very good!

[@douglasanderson7260]

Good video, I want to try monocoat, but I look at my shelf of options that I already have and think, I will try it later. I am on a kick of mixing tung oil, orange oil, and different waxes (beeswax, paraffin, monocrystiline) just to see what works best. Though if I am using something for food, I usually just stick with mineral oil and beeswax. Or basically a paste wax solution. Though I have linseed oil on my shelf I rarely use it, mostly just an oversight.

[@jbtallullah7009]

I love BLO and Paste Wax. I've started using more mineral oil and paste wax or a Howard's Feed Wax. Rubio worked great on my table. It was expensive ouch, but worked great, but BLO and mineral oil with paste wax is cheap and still easy to fix. Rubio is definitely more resilient.

[@tommanseau6277]

I'm going to try Rubio someday. Currently using Simple Finish. It does have some VOCs, but not to the same extent as oil based poly. And like its name, it's a simple to use finish.

[@danbeeson9564]

Instead of boiled linseed oil, I’ve become a fan of Tung oil and a coat of wax Similar Results between the two but linseed oil turns yellow (more and more over time) and takes longer to dry.

[@ACRigaux]

Merci beaucoup ! It’s helpful

[@markdmaker3173]

Great video, thank you

[@foxmoulder7724]

I mostly clicked to see your beautiful shop wall, learned something tho 👍

[@iggysixx]

I find Glitsa pretty nice to work with. (My father used that for various things - also floors). They have 'furniture laquer' and 'floor lacquer' which are both basically a hard wearing polyurethane coating. Scratch and stain resistant. You can still feel the wood grain, and the 'egg shell' (not satin or shiny) looks very natural too. All versions are colorless, btw. (they do 1 thing, and they do it well) It just brings out the colors underneath a little better, same as varnish on a painting does. Also, usually 1 coat is enough already. Edit: also, it's water based

[@erickp3753]

I have used Rubio on several projects and absolutely agree with everything you say. One thing I wish that people who promote it would address is the proper disposal of the rags used when applying it. My first time using it I had a small garage fire from the left over rags in the garbage can. For whatever reason I got a false sense security with it, because like you mentioned - the no VOC and the wonderful smell. And yes I know shame on me for not disposing of the rags properly. I just like to throw out a reminder to all people when I see videos on Rubio. And yes I still continue to use Rubio and would definitely recommend it. It has held up on my teenage sons desk so must be some good stuff.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Yup I do the same thing I would do with the BLO rags. Lay them flat to cure then throw away. Or put them in the burn pile.

[@threeriversforge1997]

Never heard of Rubio before, but I'll certainly have to check it out. I'm a huge fan of using Stockholm Tar on wood. Everyone talks about the nasty BLO stuff, but gimme Stockholm Tar any day of the week! It's more expensive than BLO, hence why so many have turned their backs on it, but I love the color it gives to wood and the anti-microbial action that stops the blooms of mold and mildew in humid environments. Thinned with turpentine, a little Tar goes a long way, and you can add shellac flakes to it to make a harder surface, what's sometimes referred to as "boat soup" by nautical enthusiasts. For tool handles, Stockholm Tar is hard to beat.

[@glencrandall7051]

Thank you for sharing.

[@user-qg6fy4yp8t]

My preferred oil is finished - first choice Tung oil because of its durability - it is creating protective film but it takes a lot of time to fully cure, color, food safe and love the smell of it and love the texture after it's cures . Second BLI love the way it gives color tunes to the wood, the texture, because i am not using home made it's not food safe and it doesn't give the protective film like the Tung but i think it cure faster. Denish oil for fast cure, much less durable than the above but it is keeping the natural colors of the wood. I using also water based poly if doing properly it's can be beautiful and give an excellent protective film on the wood fir indoor projects but not so for outdoor projects while the project is subjected to direct sun light - i live in the desert

[@TheVectorious]

I love the smell of Rubio mono coat and odies oil. I could just breath that all day long.

[@michaelgreethurst3785]

That last comment sounded very much like Dad joke 🤣. Good content I have seen many references to Rubio so I might have to look into it. Thanks

[@mikeandlucky]

I have been using the Odie's Oil, which I assume would be quite similar to Rubio, for quite awhile now and I love it for many of the same reasons. I will have to give the Rubio a try. I used to really hate taking 5 days to do a finish with all the sanding between coats and subsequent dust and the fumes. Thanks.

[@pavelstolarczyk9699]

Odie’s is a traditional oil in that it will need to be recounted over time as it dries out, so a little different from Rubio in practice.

[@jwayneair]

I love this stuff. I heard from I don’t remember who that you can rub off too little, but you can’t rub off too much, because of how it bonds to wood. Being that was originally created for hardwood floors, it was designed with extreme durability first and foremost, aka bulletproof on furniture. My brain says “it’s a chemical! It’s not supposed to smell this good! It has to be really bad!” My projects that I didn’t mix with hardener cured in about 3 days, vs 1 day with the hardener. As far as staining goes, Rubio has around 40 different tints that can be added when you’re mixing up a batch, you can also mix and match. So adding color, almost any color, to your project couldn’t be easier, and you won’t be stuck with a large volume of product that’s tinted some crazy color.

[@kencarlile1212]

I have Osmo PolyX on order just to try it out (thanks Rocker 20% off coupon), but what I'm using on my current project is Tried & True Varnish Oil. We'll see how it goes... Normally I use T&T original or shellac. I've never had great luck with poly, and I do not miss leaving that behind along with my table saw.

[@adrianantwright9162]

I've only used fiddes hard wax, started by redoing my floors with it and then the leftovers on a couple little pieces of furniture. Best finish i've gotten by far and not looking back

[@multicoloredwiz]

It's certainly beautiful stuff 😍

[@evanhb49]

dang thanks for the info, i been using oil from my duramax to finish my black walnut projects. ill try this stuff next time

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I am doing a video here soon comparing a few of the new finished. it is interesting so far.

[@steveatlas1546]

I'm a HUGE fan of Rubio Monocoat. It's a big hit with my wife since I'm not leaving toxic fumes around our home and the stuff does smell great. Once the scent wears off I'm due for another project!

[@michaelarighi5268]

Our house was built about 3 years ago, with Eastern White Oak floors throughout. Beautiful wood. MANY square feet. Flooring contractor's preferred finish was Rubio Monocoat. Not something I'd heard of, having been only tangentially connected with woodworking for quite a few years, but they convinced me it was the best choice. Three years later? I agree. Beautiful, durable as hell and a really nice feel. But now I have a problem. I'm building a massive set of built-in bookcases (6' high x 5 shelves x 46'(!) long). Given wood availability and prices, I'm using sande plywood--a pale tropical hardwood with very subdued grain and occasional pale green areas to it. I think Rubio would be a good choice, BUT...the cost seems eyewatering for that size project. I'll have to compare prices to, maybe BLO plus shellac.

[@jnicholasp]

Rubio is one of many brands of hardwax oils, which are typically blends of drying oils like linseed, tung, or maybe safflower, and waxes like beeswax and carnauba. Rubio's primary differentiator is their accelerator (hexamethylene diisocyanate, if you want to know and/or be worried by scary chemical names) which causes the oils in it to polymerize (harden into a solid) within a few days to a week, rather than the weeks to months that pure linseed or tung oil would otherwise take. But there are other polymerization catalysts that are used in other brands of hardwax oils, though not generally as fast-acting as Rubio's - typically heavy metal driers like cobalt, manganese, & zinc salts. These also give people pause, especially for food contacting surfaces, but the FDA considers them food safe once they are fully cured (30 days, to be safe). But for bookshelves, I would say you don't really need to worry about the oils in your finish being fully cured at a week versus a month. So if it was me, I'd go with another, cheaper, hardwax oil. The shelves will be dry to the touch in a couple of days at most, and if you have them installed quickly and want to start loading them with books that are particularly valuable, maybe just lay down some brown paper on the shelves under the books, then come back in a few months and slip it out.

[@plainwlkr8]

I'm doing butcher block countertop for my kitchens and I need something that will take a beating and clean up well. I was going to use waterlox which also seems to be of high quality but since I want a matte finish, rubico seems to be a no brainer. Save me a bunch of time with sealing. Thanks for the video.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I would not use Waterlox for a butcher block. That is a film finish and will be at up quickly Rubio would be the. much better choice in my book. It is what I used on my maple butcher lock countertop.

[@BradsWorkbench]

I make and sell my own finish called Tung Honey. Pure Tung Oil, beeswax, and carnauba wax blend. I bet you'd love it for ur hand tools but i mostly use it on spoons, charcuterie boards, etc.

[@bret9741]

I have white oak stair treads and rails. I want to match the white oak Flooring that is pre finished with what appears to be a multi step color stain in the light to warm tone. The floor appears to have a grey wash then a warm stain then a white wipe on wipe off. So the depth is grey in the grain… natural to warm stain on the majority of the wood and finally just an hint of white in the pours on some pieces. I can figure out how to accomplish the same for my raw stairs.

[@erichbuehler6317]

Just used Osmo on a harp - looks and feels great, we’ll see how it holds up

[@richs5422]

Smart. Can't use a film finish on an acoustical musical instrument, as it will change the tone. Well, unless that's what you want.

[@paulnordin5219]

This year I switched from Rubio to Fiddes Hard Wax Oil, which applies the same, with a great natural color that doesn’t cast lighter wood towards piss yellow like Rubio.

[@matthewwright57]

Only downside for fixing is with woods like cherry that darken over time. If you scrape too much you expose the pink fresh wood and it will stick out a long time. I like to use Howards Feed and Wax for maintenance oil.

[@onebackzach]

Another interesting finish you might consider trying if you haven't already is a lightly diluted milk paint. I'm generally not a fan of really rustic finishes, but I made a stool with somewhat diluted black milk paint, two coats of spray lacquer, and a coat of paste wax and I'm in love with it. The paint still has a decent bit of opacity, but the grain still shows through. As it has experienced wear and tear, the paint has sort of faded along the hard edges, which highlights some of the lines and details that would be easy to overlook, but it's still not too contrast-y or rustic looking since the whole thing already has some translucency to the paint. It'd be interesting to try it again and swap out the lacquer for rubio monocoat or a similar finish.

[@zoltan2728]

What is milk paint? Can you describe it? I would like to try it but in Hungary I will not find a can labeled as milk paint but if you can give me a hint I think i can find the local version of it. 😅

[@egbluesuede1220]

Just picked up a 2" thick round slab of Monkey Pod that is going to be a coffee table, but have been debating what finish to use.......I've got my answer now. Always wanted to try Rubio's, so here's my chance.

[@theone-rx1tv]

Its food safe to. I use it for all my carved spoons. And yes it smells great

[@kendellhellewell8803]

When you need a wipe on poly you should try Old Masters gel polyurethane. It is extremely easy to apply. I will have to give the Rubio a try.

[@adamtheroofer3659]

James. Please try a fix that may work for your stain in the wood table. I had my cat knock over a glass of water on my teak table. The water ran under a steel box we had on the table and it stained it deeply and was very black. I put on a thick damp coat of "Bar Keepers Best Friend" its a powder like ajax cleaner. I found it at the orange box store. I made a paste with water and the powder and left it over the stain overnight. It lightened the staining by 75% the first application. I applied it three times and it removed almost 95% of it. I then lightly scraped the table and re-finished it. We couldn't see the stain anymore! Worth a try!

[@stephenbozzone1116]

BKF contains Oxalic acid, a.k.a. wood bleach. Works well on tannin stains.

[@JS-or3mv]

Thanks!