Woodturning - Buffing a Danish Oil Finish

[@CelestialPopCollectiveOfficial]

What a cutie! Thanks for the informative video with a great smile. 🙂 Off to try my brand new buffing system!

[@jasonellis3379]

Great video! You are the first person to actually explain the process in detail. (Tripoli: grit bound in wax, that's a detail that none I have seen before have shared) I'm going to try this in a smaller scale with a rotary tool for my wood pendants. New sub here !

[@CarlJacobson]

Great video Kevin, thanks for sharing your process. Take care, Carl

[@kevinkrull5483]

Thanks a lot for watching Carl.Have a good one, Kevin

[@jfhayesjr]

I really want to thank you for presenting "Buffing" in a way I can thoroughly understand. I also love you pieces you make. I was featured "Highland woodturners" online mag for the month of April, but in no way does my finish work compare to yours! Great works of art!!!!

[@gordonmillar998]

Many thanks, Kevin. Catches with the Skew, catches with the Gouge, . . .and now . .Catches with the Buffing Wheel! Just can't get away from them :-)) Gordon.

[@kevinkrull5483]

Gordon Millar Ha...I never thought of it that way...you're right!! LOL Avoiding catches; the turner's life! Thanks for the laugh Gordon - Kevin

[@moodyharvey1309]

Like the video, nice job and effective. One thing I do on my Jet lathe, I use magnets for those little items that always seem to disappear from the work area, like chuck keys. Inexpensive magnets from the Big Box store or the better ones are from hard drives that my wife has taken apart, don't ask! Works on drill presses and band saws too! So when you find that chuck key hopefully a magnet will help! Once again nice job!

[@mattfletcher12]

Great info. Thank you Kevin.

[@briannewton3535]

Cool. I have just used danish oil on a piece I made, nice to know I can simply buff it. Cheers.

[@MikeWaldt]

Excellent tutorial Kevin. Thanks Take care Mike PS - Beautiful looking bowl!

[@kevinkrull5483]

Glad you enjoyed it Mike! And thanks on the bowl, it looks even better today as the cherry continues to darken - gotta love cherry. :) Thanks, Kevin

[@anklebiterwoodworks2818]

LOL. I wondered what your lathe was when I saw the thumbnail. I started with that same lathe and upgraded with Harbor Freight's 2HP dust collector motor with a 2:1 reduction hooked to the rear end of the original motor can. I called it Frankenlathe. Retired it a month ago. I really appreciate your video. Good tips!

[@kevinkrull5483]

Scott Jones Yes, that would be Frankenlathe!! lol I'll have to keep that in mind if I ever want to upgrade my motor. Hey, I'm glad you found the video useful Scott. Thanks for watching, Kevin

[@anklebiterwoodworks2818]

Kevin Krull The underwhelming performance and constant bogging down on the simplest things was a real pain but that all stopped once I upgraded the motor. If you want, shoot me a PM and I can send some pics of the setup. FYI, I did have to get a shaft adapter made to fit my reduction pullies, but that may or may not be needed depending on where you source them. I got mine off my Harbor Freight disc/belt sander.

[@kevinkrull5483]

Scott Jones Yep, I know all about the bogging down! I've actually have been toying with the idea of stepping up to a larger lathe. But, who knows!

[@anklebiterwoodworks2818]

Kevin Krull Depending on where you get your pullies from and whether or not you need to have a shaft adapter (the harbor freight dust collector motor I bought had a much larger shaft than the pullies I cannibalized) out the door brought the lathe grand total to approximately $700--still way better than what you would find a 2HP lathe for. My only complaint after that was how relatively lightweight the lathe is: `131 lbs. Even with a cast iron wing from my table saw I went for a walk when roughing out some larger pieces. That is why I retired it and got my Grizzly. But, after using it for my small business for less than a year, it had paid for itself with what I turned. Got it in 2011 and I think I found a new home for it with another woodturner wanting to have a go. P.S. going the route I did with the dust collector motor, I was still running 110 volts instead of needing 220.

[@kevinkrull5483]

Scott Jones The weight is definitely an issue and the frame isn't the most sturdy either. Also, I'm starting to develop a bad vibration when turning anything out of balance. Might be the head bearing going out or it might be how the head attaches to the bed wearing out. Not sure. If it's something major, I'll probably get a new lathe. What model grizzly do you have and how's it been for you?

[@Mjddjmmjd]

Thanks for sharing your technique. Great job.

[@vivimu]

Thank you for the vid. I used penetrating danish oil on my freshly sanded 60yr old Oak floors against everybody's opinion I met at Big box stores they're all poly this poly that but anyways my floors look so lively and great but need to buff it on I think for a more lustrous shine maybe a wax too. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! A+

[@kevinkrull5483]

Thank you Jeremiah! I've never tried it on floors, but I would imagine they look amazing. I too would think a top coat of wax would help with the shine and also add an additional layer of protection. Thanks for watching, Kevin

[@adamquincey4371]

Great video Kevin, and I'm telly enjoying ya videos, cheers... Adam ...

[@kevinkrull5483]

Hey Adam, thanks for the complement, I appreciate it. Have a good one, Kevin

[@metals2546]

Turned out great, thanks for the tips.

[@georgewhitfield2176]

Nice demo, useful. Thanks. Pretty bowl too. Cheers/George

[@watermain48]

Great video, thanks. On a bowl that size how many times did you need to charge the buffing wheel with Tripoli?

[@wakelywanderer12]

What about buffing natural edge bowls? Thanks to you I now have one with all its bark. I'd like to keep it that way. Like the drywall idea.

[@kevinkrull5483]

+wakely wanderer Glad to hear of your success! Great job! You can absolutely buff natural edge. It's imperative though to make sure that the rotation of the buffing wheel is exiting off the piece at the natural edge. Hard to explain, easy to show. Think of painting a table. Start with the brush at the middle of the table and pull the brush off the edge, it will glide right off and not hurt the edge. Now start with the brush off the table and pull is towards the middle of the table. It will catch on the edge and make a mess at the edge. Try to think of the rotation of the wheel the same way. If the wheel catches the edge first (the bark) it will rip it off. You can practice with a standard edge until your comfortable. Just really pay attention, take it slowly and carefully and you'll do fine. I have faith in you :) Have a good one, Kevin

[@arturoverde3807]

Thanks Kevin, good informative video ,stay safe 🦖

[@PhilAndersonShadyAcresWoodshop]

Thanks, Kevin, good info that I will use!

[@adamdagosto570]

Nice video. Thx!! I’m curious about the wax finish. I too have used these waxes but I noticed that on one piece (small bowl) after it got just a little wet from water (accident) the wax started to grey in color and it simply whipped off! Why is that? Is the Carnauba wax not water proof or resistant? I thought maybe I should use the Danish Oil finish first and then do what you did, follow up with the waxes to produce an amazing shiny finish, but will it just come off if it gets a little wet?

[@aydnkarakisi4753]

Hello friend very good What is the brand of wax you use? Not read on video

[@dazer123]

That is a really good finish there. and i am guessing that the thick layers of shavings and your clothes it is a bit chilly where you are lol Great video looking forward to more soon

[@kevinkrull5483]

Hey thanks!! Yep, it was quite cold when I shot this video, well below freezing. My garage is unconditioned so I'm either working in the freezing cold or sweltering heat - I just can't win! :) Thanks for watching, Kevin

[@icespeckledhens]

Thanks for the tips.

[@myvoodooisstrong]

Great video, Thank you

[@kevinkrull5483]

+Steve .Cox Hey, many thanks Steve! I hope it helps you with some great turnings! Have a good one, Kevin

[@jeffoldham3466]

where do you get your buffing wheels and the eee buffing compound,,

[@sagarlohar5871]

What is name of Shining wax stone ?

[@yuvallahav]

Great video, thanks for the information! Just one question if I may... As far as finishing, how is danish oil different from linseed oil? both are used for finishing, both are oils that cure and dry, even the color is similar, would the same buffing work on linseed oil? Thanks again!

[@kevinkrull5483]

Hey thanks and great question! Yes, any drying oil (linseed oil, tung oil, walnut oil, etc.) can be buffed as in the video once cured. That's also true of oil finishes (Danish oil finish, tung oil finish, etc.). Non drying oils (mineral oil, peanut oil, etc.) will just smear if you try to buff. Thanks for watching, Kevin

[@yuvallahav]

Kevin Krull Well, it took me 3 months, but I did find a buffing wheel and a spoke, or hub, that can fit my chuck, but what I didn't find was a buffing compound meant for wood. In the store where I got the wheel from (and it's a smaller wheel then yours, it's a 12.5 cm wheel) all they had was a buffing cream for metal (I do believe it might be a little toxic...), which I got since for now it's what was available. I did try it out on small pipe bowl I turned from walnut, and it did buff it right up to a really nice shine, but it did fill in some of the pores with the cream (which is white/gray, so probably aluminum or magnesium based?), which I personally don't mind, I think it gives it a special white dotted look, but I would love to have a buffed article without color changes. Any way I just wanted to thank you again!

[@kevinkrull5483]

yuval lahav Hey Yuval, I'm glad the buffing is working for you. Yeah, I also found out the hard way. I was using a green buffing compound on maple. I had little green specks in the pores! The buffing compounds that I'm using are for metal or automotive use. So maybe you could find a metal compound that matches the color of your wood a little better. Thanks again, Kevin

[@yuvallahav]

I'll just need to look for a transperent one... by the way, I also did a sanding wheel, like yours, I think I also comanted on that video, 30 cm, with velcro, I did need to order the 30 cm sanding paper discs from the UK, since I couldn't find anything larger then 20 cm in Italy, I guess Italians don't sand much, so thanks for that how to project too, again :-)  sorry about bad spelling, I'm on the train home from work and don't have spell check here...

[@timhyatt9185]

+Yuval Lahav check with jewelery or plastic suppliers maybe??

[@russmartin8171]

***** stars Kevin, nice one!

[@kevinkrull5483]

+Russ Martin Thanks Russ! And that's what I'm doing today, buffing a few pieces. lol Have a good one, Kevin

[@DerekCadmus]

Does it make any difference buffing forward vs reverse as it does with sanding?

[@squarerigapprentice]

Can you buff with tung oil, or will it burn the finish right off?

[@charliemooney5742]

I ENJOY THE VIDEOS THEY WERE VERY GOOD

[@kevinkrull5483]

Thanks Charlie, I'm glad you enjoyed them! I appreciate you supporting my channel. Thanks for watching, Kevin

[@larryrizzo736]

Very helpful

[@diegoforest]

Great video but damn it looks dangerous! Thanks