Wool Suit Fabrics Explained

[@arthurcatalanotto1151]

There is much more to this fabric than most people realize. This video is a great explanation of the how, why and benefits of the different weaves. I enjoy wearing wool trousers over cotton and linen; something about the feel of the fabric.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thanks for sharing, I know what you mean. Come summer, many people hear 'wool' and they think its hot and too warm-wearing compared to a linen or cotton. However, a 250g high twist wool will be VERY comfortable, breathable and you get the clean crisp look that wool gives you.

[@MinhPham-of4dl]

I agree, wool trousers always, drape much better

[@007-bourne]

your articulation of twill has just earned you a new subscriber.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Welcome aboard!

[@InfiniteBlueWaves]

I really enjoy your videos...I like the chill presentation-style, and clear info. Too many KZbinrs almost "shout" at the audience or talk too quickly. Nice work on these vids. I learn a lot!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad you like the videos and I know what you are talking about with some of those shouting youtubers that talk too quickly. I much prefer speaking like I'm having a conversation rather than yelling at you guys!

[@InfiniteBlueWaves]

I really prefer the conversational-style. Looking forward to more of your videos! @@Justin_Kwan

[@Heritage_likes]

This video is fantastic! Thank you for making it a one stop shop intro into fabrics... helped me understand the big picture and put into perspective what I should look for personally so looking forward to the next!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Glad it was helpful! If you are in the market for something, I'd be happy to help answer more questions directly, just shoot me a mail here if interested to set up a call: www.principlem.com/contact

[@sidhantmadan5345]

Bro, you didn't just earn yourself a subscriber, I literally saved half your videos to a playlist. Sick presentation and wardrobe. Cheers !!

[@Justin_Kwan]

I appreciate you! I put a lot of work into those videos so I’m glad you liked them.

[@thomaskittock2866]

Excellent, informative video. Thank you for the education, I'm excited to start designing some custom suits.

[@Justin_Kwan]

I'm glad you like it, thank you for sharing. Although I'm based in Beijing, I'd also be happy to explore some custom suit options over a a call with you if you are ever interested. We do serve international customers all over.

[@thomaskittock2866]

@@Justin_Kwan It's definitely something I would consider! Thank you Justin

[@Justin_Kwan]

@@thomaskittock2866 when you are ready to set up a call, please contact me here: www.principlem.com/contact (i'd leave my email but I'm trying to avoid internet spammers)

[@kevincuadros8722]

Thank you for breaking all of this down. So helpful and makes me appreciate my current wardrobe more than ever

[@Justin_Kwan]

Glad it was helpful!

[@jontiu]

This is the best video I've come across on understanding wool for suiting. I've had some difficulty understanding this topic for a while. But between your explanations and the clips showing how the different weaves are produced, and how this affects fabric translucency & breathability, instantly made the topic "click".

[@Justin_Kwan]

Glad it was helpful! I'll dive even deeper into fabrics in the future.

[@Eyedbythetiger]

Fantastic video & well edited. Bravo.

[@noahhaasis827]

This is the first video from your channel that I watched. I was expecting a generated stock footage video without in depth information. And I was very surprised. I learned so much in this video. And I loved how you illustrated it all with examples. Great, great, resource!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thanks for the feedback and thank you for subscribing!

[@toddwells7970]

A very informative video! The graphics were great and your experience in suiting weights and fabric characteristics were key to understanding what would work in a wardrobe ,considering where one lives, and what one is looking for in comfort and convenience. Added a subscription and look forward to more content! Be well!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thank you for the feedback and for subscribing!

[@DanElton]

How does this only have 700 views!! Fantastic explanation and visuals! Folks , follow this guy!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thank you! The video just went out, so hopefully over some time we will get the views it deserves.

[@deoostbespoketailoring]

Nice evergreen content.

[@ForTheLoveOfSuits]

Great explanation. I look forward to even more information. Where are you? Beijing?

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thanks, more to come! I'm originally from the US, after graduating from University I move to Beijing to explore the clothing industry & tailoring as well as learn some Chinese and eventually started my brand Principle M. That was over 15 years ago...time flies!

[@HouseofClassTailors]

Hello Justin, Well articulated insight on cloths. Without a doubt you're a connoisseur of timeless classic wear. I look forward to more content. Kind Regards

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thanks, I appreciate you taking the time to watch and share your thoughts.

[@TheKrish09]

Thank you for explaining this so clearly. I have been looking for a channel like yours for some time. And also you have great style!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Glad it was helpful and welcome to the channel!

[@stylishoversixty9459]

Fantastic video, I'm a new subscriber to your KZbin channel and look forward to following you and getting a thorough knowledge, since classic menswear fashion is my passion thanks for sharing I now having a greater appreciation and understanding for many of the fabrics I am familiar with!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Welcome aboard!

[@sterlinggolden7946]

Thank you.I've learned a lot.It's very important for that.Information is that you gave once again thank you.I'm looking forward to watching the rest of your program

[@Justin_Kwan]

Glad it was helpful!

[@grantiodice1425]

This is pretty cool. Definitely will rewatch before ordering my next suit.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Cool. If you have any specific questions, ask here. I answer all questions and others might find the Q&A useful

[@slinkydonkey]

Great video I always just assume anything with Cashmere would be warmer but looks like there are many options!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Cashmere usually will equate to warmer and softer/finer. But there are so many options out there.

[@petemitchell5428]

really engaging video. i love artisinal content like this so please make more about different fabrics too

[@Justin_Kwan]

Will do!

[@dasamir]

On the subject of breathability and insulation, how do you think about choices in lining? For example, if you’re going for a breathable high twist suit, does adding lining to the jacket defeat the purpose? Or less of an impact in your experience? Also what colors/characteristics do you like for summer time, work horse, business suits in high twist? Thanks!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Hi, that's a good question. In my experience, a high twist wool that is lined is more breathable than a twill wool of the same weight that is lined. But of course, unlined will be even more breathable. When I make a suit specifically for summer using high twist wools, I always opt for unlined or half lined in the jacket and no lining in my trousers. For a work horse summer suit in high twist, you can't go wrong with navy if you are in a conservative work environment. Another color I love for summer is a wheat, sand or grey-beige color. This is nice because you can also break up the suit and wear them as separates. Pro tip to keep in mind: since high twist has an open weave (almost like a window screen) it could be a bit see-through. This isn't a big problem since the front of the jacket is lined with canvas and there is the double layer of fabric with the facing/lapels, so you wont see your shirt pattern through the front. However, it's important in the sleeves and back. I usually choose a sleeve lining that matches the color of the suit fabric rather than a contrasting or striped lining. In the back, I'm less concerned since I'm usually facing people and they wont be distracted by the subtle pattern of the shirt occasionally showing through. But, if this is something that might bother you, you should consider full lining. I could go on and on about this..... I hope it's helpful! If you are interested in going deeper in this discussion on a call and have any interest in the custom clothing we offer, I'd be happy to set up a call. Just contact me on my website and we can set up a time: www.principlem.com/contact

[@williamfahey6066]

I like the information you give about the fabrics you give. Jeff

[@Justin_Kwan]

Glad to hear. Thanks for watching

[@tomilolaadewuya]

Wow! Brilliantly explained.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Glad you found it helpful.

[@swishersnaaake8208]

Great video and attention to detail, thank you.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thanks. I'll take an even deeper dive into different wools on my channel, so please subscribe to see more when I publish them.

[@swishersnaaake8208]

@@Justin_Kwan Subbed before the video even finished. Really respect what you all are doing and looking forward to more content.

[@ks6110]

You gotta love a medium grey high twist 4-ply Wool suit - my spring summer staple or in the office 🙏🏼

[@Justin_Kwan]

very nice! Definitely one of my top recommendations for easy, everyday wear in warm weather.

[@javierdeurdanibiapanos768]

great, concise and well explained, thank u!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Glad it was helpful!

[@fertileriver5442]

Just found this channel. Great explanations; I had to go back a few times to catch the info. What would you recommend for all-year business suit in Hong Kong weather?

[@Justin_Kwan]

Normally I'd suggest a high twist wool at around 250-280g. However, if you are normally indoors and rarely outdoors (for example, working and living in Central) then a 280g worsted might serve you better. Based on my experience there, the air conditioning is very strong, and believe it or not, a high twist can be a bit too breathable and the cold AC in the summer might might bother you. A worsted will offer a bit better insulation. So, ask yourself if you find yourself cold indoors more often than not? (then go with worsted 280g) or are you always hot? (then go with a high twist wool 250-280g.

[@mujeeb4377]

Hey Justin, I just purchased a Super 160 and it's currently being tailored. I had no idea about the range of supers; personally just loved how it felt & looked and made my decision off of that. After reading your comments & watching the video, I'm a little worried about the upkeep going forward. I live in New York & I'm a student, please give me all the advice I need (how often I can wear it and if/ when I should avoid wearing it), I paid out of my own pockets and would love to make the suit last as long as I can 😅

[@Justin_Kwan]

They do feel fine, soft and luxurious, I'm sure you will enjoy it. In terms of wearing it, wear it as much as you need, once a month, week or even a few times a week. Just avoid wearing it two days in a row. After you wear it, hang the trousers on folded on the crease, neatly on the hanger to naturally pull trouser creases out and make sure you have a hanger that fills the shoulders, not just on a wire hanger. You will probably only need to dry clean it once a season at most as long as you don't sweat into the suit. However, you may need to press it or iron it a bit more frequently if there are wrinkles (but hanging it after a wear should help to some extent). Next time feel free to reach out to me before you purchase your next suit and I can help you make an informed choice based on your lifestyle, interests and style you are going for. Just DM me on my instagram: kwanton

[@azizhussain399]

I am researching fabric options for a Tuxedo to wear for summer wedding. Temperature will be warm but not humid. Would to hear your thoughts on type of fabric to go for. Thanks again for very insightful video.

[@Justin_Kwan]

One of my favorite options for summer tuxedos is a wool & mohair blend. A light summer weight of 250g will have a beautiful drape due to the natural spring and crisp hand of mohair. One of the biggest selling points about mohair; it has a natural and beautiful sheen. Here is a link to some pictures of the one we carry. If you have more questions, let me know, I'm here to help! www.principlem.com/shop-all/p/guabello-black-mohair-blend-tuxedo-jacket

[@lindaabraham8715]

It seems that you are discussing suits for men only. However, I (woman) am considering making a jacket and skirt of a silk-wool blend. The fabric is expensive, so I wonder what you think.

[@Justin_Kwan]

A lot of the information I share, such as in this video this, is relevant to both men's and women's tailoring. Wool-silk blends make for fantastic fabrics, from the hand, drape and luster, but they are quite luxurious and can be expensive. My only advice is if you are visiting a new tailor for the first time, it might be wise to first make something more entry level price to get a taste of the tailors work and cut before splurging for something more luxurious.

[@lindaabraham8715]

@@Justin_KwanThanks for the advice. In my case, I want to make the suit myself, using a vintage pattern from 1960. The pattern is unusual, but not complex. I'll do plenty of research, and make a toile first... the silk wool I have in mind is $70 per yard, so I intend to be careful. I appreciate any further advice you might give.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Sounds like it will be amazing. A pattern from 1960 and in a wool/silk blend. Please share pics of the work if you can! Going with a toile first will also minimize risks.

[@lindaabraham8715]

@@Justin_KwanWhere to send pics? It will be a while... I have a few other projects first.

[@Justin_Kwan]

If you use instagram send to me at "kwanton" or email to [e-mail] -- thanks!

[@osmanmateks]

Hello ! Thank you for amazing details about this topic . I have one question . what is the Fabric at 3:06 what bunch ? collection ? it looks awesome !

[@Justin_Kwan]

That is a high twist plain weave wool from Hardy Minnis Fresco bunch.

[@jesseking4201]

high twist wool with natural stretch? which fabric? I want that!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Escorial is one that comes to mind. A newer fabric I've seen on the market, Stylebiella, also offers some but they have 4% lycra. Fresco light tend to be slightly less rigid than the original fresco.

[@ApricusInaros]

Interesting, thank you for the informations. Would you recommend a wool crepe for a special occasion trouser? I have an extravagant Alexander McQueen blazer, which I'd like to pair with a pair of trousers that has a nice flow and is also bit more extravagant than a standard suit trouser with a plain weave. I've seen a trouser in wool crepe, the cut looks good but I wonder how fast it will crease, if it will be too soft and look baggy quickly, and also might be lacking in breathability.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Full disclaimer, I don't have much experience working with wool crepe, but from my understanding its woven in a way that results in a softer fabric, which will be more flowy and relaxed looking. However, I don't think it will hold a crisp trouser crease very well. If the Alexander McQueen blazer is as I imagine, sharp, structured, striking, I think you may want to go for a wool that holds a sharper crease so the trousers can match the jacket in looking crisp, formal and clean. Think covert or calvary twill for something more substantial and thinker for winter or perhaps a high twist wool for a open weave summery trouser.

[@ApricusInaros]

@@Justin_Kwan Thank you very much for your reply. Yes it is a sharp, structured blazer. I will look further for a better matching trouser, with your suggestions of covert and cavalry twill in mind.

[@scottgray6276]

Occasionally the lighting on your right lapel makes it look notched…l think it’s because of the buttonhole, and the real edge blending with the fabric behind it. Anyway, as a costume designer, the idea of mismatched lapels appeals to me!

[@Justin_Kwan]

That would be wild, to have one notch and one peak! (for a costume anyways)

[@VPort56]

Amazing video, thanks so much

[@Justin_Kwan]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@TheoneD11]

Bro, in which above category does Hopsack belong to?

[@Justin_Kwan]

A lot of hopsack is made with wool and can be thought of as a quasi high-twist. However, hopsack is still a bit different. Have you seen my video on hopsack? Here it is: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZCuiKRobapso5o

[@aaronvelazquez5599]

Great video! I recently made the mistake of not buying enough fabric for a suit, and now i've got a woolen suit jacket but no pants to match!! I've got other wool pants (the normal, not fuzzy ones) but it's a pain trying to find a color match (anthracite). I know i'll never be able to find a perfect match, specially since the fabric itself had a silk inner lining and was very rigid (I have no idea what kind of fabric it was) the seller said it was dead stock Dior fabric, but who knows... what would you do in my situation? Which type of pants would you pair it with? Should i do the abominable and pair it with jeans? Try to find a similar weight fabric? I never seem to wear it and I do feel kind of bad for the wasted fabric.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Definitely don't try to find a close match to make a suit, that will never work out. Instead, let's look at the bright side and be constructive. Matching your dark jacket in anthracite, can look very chic with cream, off-white or white trousers. Wear some black knitwear inside--a polo, knit tee or turtleneck would all work. I'd wear that with black loafers in calf skin or even some black suede Belgian loafers would do. Or, another monochromatic way to wear it would be with a light grey trouser and a white shirt. Start with these two looks, then experiment with other ways to wear it and get that jacket into rotation!

[@aaronvelazquez5599]

@@Justin_Kwan This is such clever advice! I'll make it my mission to wear it more often! Thank you very much for the answer.

[@Justin_Kwan]

@@aaronvelazquez5599 Your welcome

[@lederppz6202]

I don’t even wear suits …. How did I just like and subscribe

[@Justin_Kwan]

Welcome aboard and get ready to go down the rabbit hole with us!

[@ZeroZeroGlasses]

Very good content ❤

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.

[@139-b7j]

Can any of these be worn without lining, or will it be itchy?

[@Justin_Kwan]

Most of them can be unlined and I'm usually not so concerned about being itchy because I'll almost always have a long sleeve shirt on so the wool suit will rarely touch my skin. Instead, I like to go unlined for practical purposes, such as to be more breathable and cool wearing on a summer suit.

[@139-b7j]

@ Yeah but what about trousers? Not much underneath them.

[@Justin_Kwan]

@@139-b7j Ah, the trousers. Good question. Most of my wool trousers have half front lining, which covers the hips and goes over the knees. The wools that tend to be itchy are the heavier wool flannels or tweeds, in which case lining is an added benefit. For a high twist wool trouser that is a bit rough, I'd recommend you go with a half lining if you have sensitive skin. If you tend to be hot and want them to be cooler wearing, go with no lining. I hope this helps.

[@WJYN7435]

About twill vs plain weave, for a daily business suit, it's better because of it combines comfort but also denser yet lightweight. About drape, i'm not expert, but many sources says that twill drapes better than plain weave.

[@Justin_Kwan]

In my experience of making suits with all sorts of different fabrics, I find a heavy twill has a fantastic drape and also holds a crease very -- such as 300+ gram wools or 400g covert. But in lighter weights of say 240-270g, I find a plain weave drapes cleaner and more crisp than a twill, where twill tends to be a bit more flowing and relaxed.

[@WJYN7435]

@@Justin_Kwan Ok that's good to know, but one thing that worries me between twill vs plain in

[@hollowIchigo58]

Is a super 160s very difficult to maintain? I'm planning on buying one for my engagement and using it sparingly afterwards. Would you recommend a 130s to a 160s?

[@Justin_Kwan]

Hi, I think a nice 160's would be a lovely and luxurious suit to celebrate an event like your engagement. I wouldn't say it's much harder to maintain than a 130's, it will be important that it fits and drapes nice. If it's at all tight or doesn't fit, those imperfections will show more than on a 130's. So it will be good to try it on first if it's RTW, or if tailor made, it will be important that you do it with a tailor you've made suits with before so there are no surprises. Best of luck and congratulations on your engagement!

[@hollowIchigo58]

@@Justin_Kwan thank for the reply Justin, would you recommend any do's and don'ts in a 160s maintenance?

[@powerstryker]

I don't'. want to know how many kinds of Wool there are I want to know Wool is made of what ?

[@Justin_Kwan]

Good question. Check out this video I made that covers the main 3 types of suiting fabrics and what they are made from: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p52XY6mQd5qpas0

[@sleephashira852]

Is that a steel bracelet?

[@Justin_Kwan]

It's a sterling silver bracelet from Codis Maya, have had it for years now.

[@shiyuyan9430]

I dig this haircut

[@Justin_Kwan]

You might be the first...lol

[@alternateunreleasedshellac505]

I've decided to make a heavy Tweed suit made with a wide leg & high-rise trouser.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Sounds fabulous!

[@johncatalano4985]

Very nice video, you should collab with Kirby Allison for this kind of vidio

[@Justin_Kwan]

Maybe one day...I think I need to hit another level before I can collaborate with Kirby. But I'd love to light up a cigar with him and talk fabrics.

[@johnduffin9425]

The more I learn, the more questions that I have. The coldest environment that I find myself in, is when Im walking from my car, to the bar for 3 months out of the year. it's only couple of minutes at tops. Im looking for my first custom tailored pleated trousers with cuffs that will hopefully help me with making my short legs look longer, while trying to inspire the wearing of a more classic look, in order to oppose to the army of pajama wearing adults of today. I have been wearing a very light weaved stretch pants that do not make me feel too cold. I usually wear a sports coat along with a camel hair coat.I also wear a waist coat half of the time I keep my winter thermostat at a balmy 55-60 degrees at the house, so when Im sitting at the bar, it's already a warmer type environment to deal with. I know this is out of line, but I want a pair of trousers with belt loops. I had no idea choosing the material and style for a set of trousers would have this many options.. Never too old to lear I guess! Cheers from a new subscriber!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thanks for sharing. If you aren't too sensitive to cold weather and want some pleated trousers with cuffs and belt loops, consider a 300g plain weave wool. This, in my opinion, is the closest weight and weave you will find to a 4 season wool --they are perfect for regulating body heat meaning they are insulating in the winter yet airy in the warmer months. Check out the 'Alfred Brown' suits on my website, they are made with this type of wool: www.principlem.com/shop-all/p/alfred-brown-dark-grey-suit

[@johnduffin9425]

@@Justin_Kwan Thank you so very much! I will gladly take your advice! I need all the help that I can get! Cheers young man!

[@mohdnoormohdrashid736]

Useful

[@Justin_Kwan]

Glad you think so!

[@yaakovhassoun8965]

the only problem is once you start to appreciate what's out there you also realize how bloody expensive it can be to dress nicely. I still enjoy it though, my suit I had made makes me look better than 99% of people in just about any situation.

[@Justin_Kwan]

I'm sure you find it rewarding!

[@matthill2957]

I would love to see this guys closet. He must has tens of thousands of dollars in clothes

[@Justin_Kwan]

TBH I never thought about that... I'm just trying to make more outfits to help give other guys some ideas and inspiration. And I really, really like my suits!

[@Stephen-bg8ol]

Great info. Turn off that background music!

[@Justin_Kwan]

Thanks for watching, and for the feedback on the background music. I'm always wondering if its really needed or not. I'll consider no BGM moving forward.

[@Andoy12]

Wool exudes quality that an artificial fabric can't match

[@Justin_Kwan]

Exactly!

[@Andoy12]

​@@Justin_Kwan So i just picked up a couple of wool trousers and they are so soft and comfortable, without that harsh synthetic feel,, good stuff

[@anundbabajee9327]

Just disovered your channel. It's a treasure trove. Cheers

[@Justin_Kwan]

Great to hear, thanks for subscribing.

[@renriviera]

Suits, ha ha, wouldn’t be caught dead in one.

[@Justin_Kwan]

Then you might be at the wrong channel, my friend!

[@Prodi1977]

Love your video and narration. Can you recommend some site where I can online order classic silk ties at an affordable price in Canada? I like broader ties and not modern sleek ones.

[@Justin_Kwan]

I've been working with this brand for a while and offer there ties at my shop in Beijing: shibumi-firenze.com/collections/ties