Learning About Fabrics 5: Woolens and Worsteds

[@zoehongteaches]

Watch all my fabric videos here: kzbin.info/aero/PLwQq1-SdsNvY548atNt3EvWZYCeY1iCQh

[@danielacrucesperez6901]

I started watching this series to understand more about my clothes and now I'm hooked, I want to check every tag, stitch, etc. When I was around 5 to 9 years old I wanted to be a fashion designer, that dream got pushed aside but its definitely awakening now but in another way. As a petite I'm always taking my clothes to the tailor's maybe now I can encourage myself to mend them on my own.

[@patriciabernard8386]

I am petite as well. I am 74 but in my teens I developed an interest in fabrics and started to know all the names and then life came along and I had no time to continue my interest and I love You Tube because it makes it so easy to research now. Recently bought a Harris Tweed winter coat at a yard sale for 2 bucks.

[@corderosaamada9280]

I swear I feel like you're making these fabric videos by secretly stalking my Textile Analysis schedule. You posted this and the next class we had the teacher was talking about Woolens... Zoe you are my hero.

[@zoehongteaches]

Excuse me, that sounds like your teacher was stalking me, not the other way around. hahahahaha

[@corderosaamada9280]

LMAO. With as much as I talk about you in class...I hope she’s stalking you. You’re like my study guide/tutor.

[@ethanmasliansky3488]

I just started studying textile science at FIT this fall, and have been watching your videos for long time. These fabric videos and fashion industry/supply chain videos are making my classes SO MUCH EASIER!! It feels amazing not starting from square 1 . Thank you so much for these series. They mean a lot to textile junkies like myself

[@zoehongteaches]

You're welcome! Good luck at school!

[@ukrainianballet_unofficial1344]

I always learn something new from your videos but this one was heavily insightful to me! I could never grasp the difference between tartan and plaid, checks and tattersall, houndstooth and glen plaid, checks and windowpane. Neither vocabulary, nor googling of pictures wouldn't explain it as clear as this video does. Thank you Zoe!

[@theverbind]

This was SO great!!! I've been in a youtube haze watching your videos for hours. So many questions answered! So much knowledge bestowed! You are a very generous human!!

[@darlinespring4066]

I'm sewing with a boucle fabric at the moment. Thanks for this video. I learned a lot.

[@KudziGavaza]

Why am I only coming across this video now, I started working in fabric almost 5 years ago ! So much knowledge thank you Zoe

[@AbdurrahmanHaidary87]

Zoë Hong: means Fashion Wikipedia 💜

[@katherinemorelle7115]

I learned the difference between tartans and plaids. I think I could instinctively point to a tartan, and know that a plaid shirt isn’t necessarily a tartan, but I didn’t know the definition, so thanks. I just got a really lovely grey and white Prince of Wales tweed, I’m planning to make a lovely 1890-1900 walking skirt out of, and it’s just the most gorgeous pattern. I also absolutely adore tweeds, especially for things like waistcoats. I love me a tweed waistcoat! Though I’m not so fond of Houndstooth, probably because it’s too closely linked as the logo for a department store here in Australia, David Jones. And the one excellent thing about living in Australia is that Merino wools aren’t as expensive, and are far more common. There are so many really wonderful companies making lovely Merino wool garments here, and the “Made of 100% Australian Wool” tag is definitely a sign of high quality. Same with 100% New Zealand wool. I really love our wool, it’s just so soft and comfortable. I was shocked the first time I tried to wear non-merino wool, at how scratchy and uncomfortable it is. You have to have a thick layer underneath it to prevent it from coming into any contact with your skin. But I can wear my merino sweaters as tops, with no layers underneath. They’re not quite as soft as cashmere, but they’re not far off either. Very comfortable, very soft, very warm. Wool is awesome, but it is something I don’t use as much in summer, probably because summer weight wools are still very expensive, for all that they would be great for the Brisbane climate. And so I make do with my very wrinkly linens and cottons. But wool is my favourite fibre, with linen running a far off second...then silk, then cotton, and then way down in absolute last place is polyester. It’s the devil, as far as I’m concerned. Probably because I do live in a very hot and humid climate, and the worst possible thing to do is wrap yourself in plastic. So sweaty, ugh. I’ll stick to my natural fibres, thanks- no matter how pretty or cheap polyester can be.

[@amytruong2472]

Thank you for posting this. I have been searching for better explanations and good close ups of the fabrics and you provided both with great detail! Sincere thanks!

[@65pinkrosesYT]

Thank you so so much! I’m prepping to make a nice winter cape and I’ve never worked with wool before so this was a fantastic primer! Now I know that I will probably want to work with a nice wool molten or similar! Thanks!!!! :)

[@pamelabrinkley6900]

Binge watching again. I learned alot from watching this video. I now know the correct terms.

[@mposadas5]

Thanks for these videos about knits and fabrics

[@flyingeaglewoman8682]

Thank you, this is very helpful for me. Just getting started designing and making my own clothes, (Sloper first however) , but am studying different apparel fabrics since I have worked mostly with cotton for handbags and various projects. Your video on knits was also very helpful, thank you for that one too!

[@zoehongteaches]

Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your projects!

[@vladimirmichal7139]

Love your videos, I learn so much from them in a very fun way. Thank you for doing this.

[@ailienrhijnsburger5178]

Great video. Just one remark, in the beginning of your video you say wool can not be lustrous. However, some sheep breeds are "lustre" breeds. They have long, shiny hair. An example is Wensleydale, which, if worsted spun, takes up dye like no other wool, and is very pretty and shiny.

[@ZachJBLG]

Love these fabric videos! I take notes every time 🙌🏻

[@Filetcon]

Hi! I super appreciate you covering this subject - I work in a bespoke tailor shop as a salesperson and I am finding myself SMITTEN, IN LOVE with the fabrics...My fabric mill sales reps cannot for the life of them recommend ANY books to learn about how to learn about learn about the exact nature of how their manufacturing and processing methods result in the works of art that we get into the shop. I am looking into textile design, but most of these have such HEAVY focus on synthetics, which are not used by sellers for mills Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry or Hardy Minnis. This is a nice intro but I was really hoping we might dive into the process of making a wool a super 120s and the characteristics that make mills like Scabal better than most no name mills making the same pattern, same weave super 120s or super 150s etc. I really want to understand the process as a whole, in addition to understanding the finished product thoroughly. I really appreciate how digestible you make this information in your series. (THEN this doesn't even get into Mohair blends, or cashmere/silk/linen, and like Gladson has a Bamboo that they deem "california cashmere"!! Loro Piana has a fabric even more fine made from lotus flowers!! Wow!) What kinds of books and resources would you suggest that I look into, to learn the most about fabrics used particularly for luxury suiting industry?

[@iremify]

thank you for the video, it is very motivating and intriguing way to talk about fabrics to students. it was fun to watch despite a very loaded content:)

[@zoehongteaches]

I know it's a lot of info, but the beauty of video is you can watch it over and over again whenever you need it. :D

[@Mysicalgreenunicorn03]

And the category is.... incredible fashion video tutorials! Gracias chika, this was amazing.

[@zoehongteaches]

you're welcome!

[@wolfferoni]

Houndstooth! That's what that pattern is. I've been seeing it for a while and I could never figure out how to really describe it to someone.

[@sinw4lker]

so helpful !! I think I have improved a lot after binging your channel 😂😂 you deserve more atentaion, or recognition. I don’t know the word.. anyways, thanks Miss Hong!

[@zoehongteaches]

You're welcome!

[@rabthecab]

You don't get much more recognition than being the "Most famous Asian in Israel" lol.

[@zoehongteaches]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤦🏻‍♀️

[@jesseroman3373]

i absolutely loved this video! i am a wool purist and only wear wool clothing, my style of choice is 1990s Filson whipcord wool pants. would love to know more about whipcord wool. Thank you!

[@thelandoftranquillight]

I love this video!! Thank you!! I’m learning so much!

[@Rodrigomendesdf]

Wool has been so far my favourite fabric from this list, can you do a Designing with wool video, please?

[@habituscraeftig]

You can get somewhat shiny wool through calendaring or through satin weaves with fiber blends like wool-silk or camlet (because it's so easy to find calendared fabrics, these days, grumble). The fact that you can essentially get watered wool in the form of camlet makes me really happy, but I've basically decided that I need to buy the machinery to do that sort of thing for myself, at some point down the line. Also, not truly shiny, but certain camels and certain goats (mohair, for example) have *better* lustre than generic sheep's wool. Nothing on part with a silk blend, but it can be a lot less matte than people tend to assume.

[@outofthebex]

You are my hero. This is so awesome. Thank you!

[@carolynwarfield1057]

Zoe, this is super helpful. As a consumer I've struggled with wool because every single time I've worn it, even in blends, I itch like a mofo; I can't even knit with it. But this winter I was gifted a Merino sweater and miraculously can wear it. Any clues for consumers about finding other non-itchy garments?

[@deidrabenson361]

Thanks sooo much for sharing!!❤️❤️❤️

[@nooralhaddad381]

Love your videos 💕 I’m learning a lot Keep it up 👍🏽

[@A_Ghouls_Life]

So great! Thank you! 🪡🐑

[@tooosa5249]

Thanks soooo much for being such an amazing teacher for us ♥

[@patriciabernard8386]

I had an off-white boucle suit in the seventies---Channel style and walked on the Boardwalk in Atlantic City on Easter minus the hat but I did have off-white stockings on.

[@patriciabernard8386]

Actually if circumstances were right I would have had a career in this subject. I am just drawn to this subject for many reasons. Love of animals, art, fibers, history of design, varieties. status of people and what they wear, vocabulary : names for the fibers and the names of the finished fabrics, tartan plaids, and the science of the fibers, complaice the nts and problems with wool. cottage crafts where people at home.

[@patriciabernard8386]

Post Malone wore a windowpane check suit and I loved it and I could tell he loved it too as he was on a tv stage and handed his jacket so carefully to a staff person to care for it.

[@lauraweiss7875]

Ha! Exactly the video I was looking for! Thanks for creating.

[@sahibasamlok7141]

Can’t thank u enough for all ur lessons

[@zoehongteaches]

you're welcome!

[@coreartalex6708]

Loved the video!!! I learn something new & also I can play this video on my next party and make a drinking game so everybody drinks when you say Wool n.n Love U Zoe

[@zoehongteaches]

Omg don’t do that! You’ll all die of alcohol poisoning!!! 🤣

[@coreartalex6708]

Hehe ok I'll do a eating contest, every time you say wool everybody has to eat a hot wing. Also Inktober list its out already, are you ready??

[@zoehongteaches]

I hope you have a lot of money for 100s and 100s of hot wings. I was toying with the idea of doing an inks video in late September to get people into Inktober. How to work with inks, how to use brush pens, etc...

[@coreartalex6708]

YES!!!!! Please do that video, please!!!

[@jennyobiliseen4301]

From a sewing and construction POV, wool felt is my absolute favorite to work with.

[@zoehongteaches]

Yes, it's pretty easy to deal with.

[@syfy666]

I know this is unrelated, but where I am going to learn design they want me to use gouache, but the only brand accessible to me is the pebeo T7 gouache, can you please tell me your opinion if you ever used them? You are the only one I trust about being honest and knowing if it's fitting to be used in a fashion illustration...

[@zoehongteaches]

Pebeo T7 is one of the brands I use. Good stuff.

[@syfy666]

@@zoehongteaches thank you! I really appreciate this 😊

[@sudheerasubodhani]

Hi zoe.. This video amazing. You teach a lot. Please can you teach us about handloom fabric and powerloom fabric. Please consider my request.

[@mariaduszak9064]

Well, handloom fabrics are used only in couture - v.rarely andethnic wear fabrics so i doubt that it is applicable to what area she teaches.

[@allie.joy.designer]

This was great. I just finished doing 2 plaid flannel sewing projects ( pre designing practice practice practice ) swore up and down it was a tartan oops it was not. Btw what do you call a plaid fabric in the which the stripes are running diagonally?

[@zoehongteaches]

Uh, diagonal plaid?

[@allie.joy.designer]

Probably a print, I send you a picture

[@brettthorndike1079]

Great Video, I learned what I needed too 👍🏻

[@robertordonez9242]

Hi! What’s more shiny or better looking? Woven or wool?

[@nonicheindustries]

Can you suggest a mid weight merino wool blend, mostly wool soft but durable, to make an insulating sleeping bag liner out of? Was thinking 200-300 gram weight but It must me soft to the touch and good for making a dinner from. Please help. And any suggestions o. Where to obtain it?

[@emperorscotty]

literally secs before you said take notes i had just started taking Notes lol

[@brinta19]

And I Absolutely Loooove You!

[@ahmonbryant4363]

Hey zoey have you done any videos on waterproofing?

[@ava9387]

I'm a home sewist and love you videos. I do have a question. I just purchased my first batch of fabrics for my fall/winter sewing. I picked a wool twill flannel coating. Where would it fall on this chart? Are all coatings woolen? Thanks again!

[@zoehongteaches]

I can't say without feeling the fabric myself but coatings are usually woolens and flannels are usually woolens.

[@christiniapeake149]

Another amazing lesson thanks

[@alexanderv.b.170]

This was very informative. Thank you

[@zoehongteaches]

You're welcome!

[@chriswatson1698]

A bit of polyester or nylon definitely improves wool for trousers and straight skirts, because wool bags just like denim does. I have been wearing home made wool trousers for 40 years and never dry cleaned them. Up to a Australian size 14 with no pleats, the pattern pieces fit onto one length of the folded wool, so that you only need your length, plus turnings and a waistband. Very economical and if you wash it before you cut it out, you don't have to go anywhere near a dry cleaner. That said, it is only the worsted wool that is suitable for handwashing. The more expensive and better quality the wool, the better it washes and irons. While washing wool is easy, pressing it is a long job. That is when you want the services of a dry cleaner.

[@myreborntv]

Hi Zoe, Didn’t see the name of the book in the description box. Can you add it? Thanks

[@zoehongteaches]

Oops, you're right. Fixed!

[@sochhay]

Hello Zoe, thank you for all your videos and hardwork I really appreciate it, since we are talking about wool, I washed my 100 %wool sweater in hot water in the washer by mistake and it shrunk, is there any way to unshrunk it or its ruined and I'll probably make a dog sweater.

[@zoehongteaches]

It will probably make a cute dog sweater.

[@chriswatson1698]

I mistook my new fine merino wool sweater for a cotton T shirt and washed it as such. Big shrinkage. But I am wearing it now, under another garment as a thermal. The shrinkage made it much smaller in area, but it is just as soft and is now thicker and warmer.

[@apenasmarcosfelipe]

wow!!! so good

[@crispenariate4928]

notice me. whice wool can use for making a cap or snapback

[@skyband9235]

Thank you so much for this!!! ♥️♥️♥️

[@hustlehumbly6169]

Can you cover vicuna

[@stache1954]

I love your videos.

[@zoehongteaches]

Thanks!

[@beingWantable]

which wool itches the least?

[@zoehongteaches]

worsteds

[@beingWantable]

@@zoehongteaches Thank you, good to know!

[@dirikimiller1026]

The book that you have can you please tell me the name of that book

[@jiangyuk9232]

do you need wool yarn?

[@obamalastname34]

It seems to be the thicker the wool the more coarse and not smooth. How come I don't see wool suiting around 400gsm but smooth as those super 160 above also in melton wool too?

[@MegaTinni]

16:28 isn't that also called an overcheck?

[@nadia.lewis.]

Back to school with wooooooooooooolllllll!!

[@zoehongteaches]

Did you take notes in your Lisa Frank Trapper Keeper? Or is that before your time?

[@nadia.lewis.]

@@zoehongteaches not before my time! We were just lower middle, so I had Lisa Frank knockoff stuff. 🤣

[@zoehongteaches]

I feel you! My family was straight up poor until middle school. I always wanted one though!

[@heikehoyer1284]

I love your videos about fabrics! One question: can I handwash carefully woolfabrics ( I want avoid chemical cleaning ). Greetings Heike

[@chriswatson1698]

I have been wearing home made wool trousers for 40 years and have never used a dry cleaner on them. But you need the worsted, closely woven wool. You have to protect wool from moths. My wool trousers have looked beautiful for years. Was dismayed to see how quickly a shop bought pair of cotton/synthetic pants deteriorated. You need to hand wash the wool fabric before you cut it out, the same way that you will hand wash the finished garment. That is, in lukewarm water by hand in a wool detergent and minimum of agitation. Use a spin dry to get the water out. Don't leave the wool wet. Rinse by hand in lukewarm water. After the final rinse and spin, roll the garment in a clean dry towel and sit on the parcel for a few seconds. It is then ready to iron on the wrong side with a pressing cloth. Wool does not absorb dirt and body oils as much as cellulose fibres do. Don't wash it unnecessarily. To make felt: soak and agitate the wool vigorously in hot water. To avoid felting: don't.

[@nanagohana]

Hi! If I want to DIY baby’s diaper (wool cover), where can I buy some soft wool flannel ? Taiwan have no store selling wool fabric...

[@gumchewernormally5190]

Completely unrelated question. But I just wanted to run this by you to get your thoughts. You did a video a while back on PVC illustration. I would like to know if PVC can be stained (dyed)? I know it doesn't relate to this video, just thought I'd ask. 🙏🏾🙏🏾

[@zoehongteaches]

I have never heard of that possibility. The PVC typically is dyed while the plastic in liquid form and then allowed to solidify.

[@yasminhorn_]

Hello, can you reference the books that you used to illustrate the different patterns and fabrics. I notice is a red inner cover ( orange tabs) , purple cover, and then yellow cover - I’m trying to learn more about patterns and fabric types for my reselling business

[@zoehongteaches]

All my book recs are at amazon.com/shop/zoehong

[@yasminhorn_]

@@zoehongteaches thank you!

[@HoneycombTheywontletmeputjusto]

What is fleece's whole deal? I thought it was a woolen, but now I'm not so sure.

[@zoehongteaches]

Fleece is what you call a sheep's coat. Fleece the fabric is basically a fluffy soft pile fabric that used to be made out of wool but now made of different materials, including wool, polyester, or a combo.

[@machoprotegido5607]

"Wool delaine" as a frenchspeeker this is hillarious

[@rossellaleonardi2908]

These notions seems boring, but essential. Zoe, I have the same book in Italian. Is that incorrect? Regarding descriptions???

[@zoehongteaches]

Yes, there are some incorrect labels. I still use the book because I know enough to correct the labels as I show things. There are some good examples though. You just have to pay attention. If you look at the glen plaid page, you'll notice all the fabrics are all really different from each other.

[@rossellaleonardi2908]

Thank you very much!

[@aleisterbroodryk4263]

ALPACA!!!!

[@KARYNTHOSCMC]

Thanks again

[@bollywoodfrancais8572]

GOOD

[@Liessssssssssss]

Merino wool does have a reputation of being farmed unethically.

[@TheMarcasus]

Fuk yiiis 💃I love these fabric videos

[@brinta19]

You never made a Learning Fabrics video for 'COTTON'?? :-(

[@zoehongteaches]

I should!

[@huseyinsonmez9448]

Hi ZoE

[@huseyinsonmez9448]

Im a knitting man

[@rosemaryhannah3467]

Donegal tweed is NOT a brand name. It is a traditional wool fabric made in County Donegal, ireland. Shetland wool is NOT a brand name. It is a traditional wool fabric made on the Shetland Isles in Scotland.

[@cloui443]

Houns tooth are called chicken feet (pieds de poule) in French, funny how every language interprets the patterns haha

[@zoehongteaches]

I love this! Thanks for sharing!

[@timothycook337]

Are you trying too pull the wool over my eyes?

[@sarahmartinez1021]

Anyone curious to learn more about super numbers should watch this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWaziKalq8logNU Another great video, Zoe. Thank you!

[@zoehongteaches]

Ooh thanks for the link!

Wait! Are you Japanese? I see Japanese bôk.