Working on the Railroad PART2

[@Gottenhimfella]

Minor point of clarification: Anyone thinking about lapping more than a few tenths should take heed of a basic principle: lapping does not "know" which part you intend to change size. The abrasive particles, not being intelligent, simply embed themselves (mainly) into the softer item of the mating pair. In this case, that's the bearing blocks -- meaning that most of the size change will actually happen to the steel bar. What Keith demonstrates here would actually be a more effective way of lapping the bar than the bearing blocks, but he's only looking to remove a very small amount, and doesn't care about a reduction in the size of the steel bar, so it works out fine. In summary: ideally, the lap should be softer than the part being lapped. For instance, if you're trying to lap aluminium, you may have to resort to lead or even wood for the lap. I have had success lapping bronze and brass with aluminium laps, but you do have to use a high-lubricity vehicle for the abrasive compound, and take care to keep the lap cool, or you might smear or seize the lap.

[@KeithFenner]

They actually inserted felt all the way across the reservoir, which holds the amount of oil between lubing’s The design of the load side is not able to lose any surface area, like a grove. Thanks for the feed with that comment!

[@KeithFenner]

It was Clover oil base lapping compound, about 180 grit over Cold Roll Stock; I used the drop from the same stock used for the axles! Thanks for the Comment…

[@junglejammer1]

Cool video, Keith. Those hammer marks and other, "whoopsies", brought back a memory. In the tool & die shop I used to work in, we had an old guy who, when starting to work on a banged up piece would run his hand over the surface and say, "gotta' get rid of the goonies." A "goonie", was a technical term for the raised metal areas. LOL

[@jonesgerard]

I'm a hobby machinist, I had a south bend lathe. On those axels, they're not as critical as you think. No matter how perfect the wheel spacing the width of the track rail itself will never be exact. Its just a certain tolerance but consider how they fasten the rail to the sleeper bed, just hammer pinned with pinch clip to hold the rail in place.

[@KeithFenner]

Yes, they hold the side thrust also...

[@not2fast4u2c]

I really enjoy watching this one I like old stuff alot simpler and made more durable than most things today A+ on your repair job

[@GarnettM]

Just curious do you think a groove cut in a spiral the width of the lube blocks would help oil the shaft better as it turning being the center of the lube pan has the felt Wad the groove would carry the oil more evenly .

[@KeithFenner]

@TorqueRider2000 If you did, I'd say, Welcome back, theres more than enough work to go around :)

[@aciera]

Nice job as usual. Curious about the lapping though; isn't there a risk of charging the bearings with the lapping compound, later wearing down the shaft in use?

[@KeithFenner]

No after a wipe and blow down, the grit is pretty much gone, not like if it was Babbitt a soft material that you need to keep all abrasives away from it. ;{)---

[@GK1918]

Just my guess Keith when machining those, the finish was not that important so they used a roughing tool. Properly ground finish HSS tooling should look like glass. But finishing grinding does get delicate so I made a lapper (attachment) using valve comp. right down to auto compound, the clapper must be locked then it laps forward & backward strokes. That is how I do 1-2-3 blocks. thanks SP

[@jamiebuckley1769]

another great learning and inspireing video kieth thanks for sharing.

[@KeithFenner]

No I used a Chromalloy of some kind. A material with strength and load handling capabilities ;{)-----

[@b3nsb3nz]

What are you using to remove the spray glue when your done lapping and pull the paper off? I assume it must leave some sort of residue right?

[@KeithFenner]

@CHIBA280CRV Its a personal collection, actual steam engine

[@page1of1]

As a self taught amature machinist and building these scale loco's and stationary internal combustion engines ect ( see my channel), I have derived a lot of new info and technique from your channel in the short time I have been a subscriber. I especially loved the chatter removal concept with the lead flashing. I also love your radio sation! Thankyou very much Kieth.

[@kma4444]

Always fun to watch your videos Keith. You're changing the way I approach almost everything in the shop. Like I read that someone else posted, "What would Keith do" that is my new mantra. Today will be removing a corroded off steel banjo bolt for the water inlet of an otherwise solid brass pressure water pump. Then I will try my hand at making a new bolt. WWKD will drive my efforts. By the way, only Keith would repair a set of train wheels and have an actual set of train tracks to set them on!!!

[@royreynolds108]

Trueing or planing the top and bottom of the rails was for another project so they would sit flat. Rail as designed and rolled have a curved top or running surface and flat on the bottom to sit on crossties or tie plates to spread the load to the ties. There is one use of rail where the top IS flat--crane rail where the loads are heavy and the wheels are double flanged.

[@thisissoeasy]

Incredibly nice job! (But, do these blocks just rub on the inside of the wheels?) Thanks for sharing yet another great, informative video. Cheers from Australia...

[@Darryl603]

Notice how he trued up the top and bottom of the tracks. I wish I had some!

[@barrystevens2780]

Hi Keith, (related to the railroad) A small chamfer on the bearing encourages lube oil to migrate into the bearing - shaft joint, while a sharp bearing corner tends to shear the oil from the shaft and can starve the bearing. A .005 " shallow angled chamfer s sufficient. Does anyone know where I can find a photo of a spindle speed panel for a 1907 B&S plain mill.?

[@wyrtwister4260]

When you press fit parts , do you use oil on the parts or press fit them dry ? Thanks , God bless Wyr

[@Welderman34]

@Welderman34 hope to go back to school and learn machining. Tinkering at works a start. My question is do you think it could have been a cnc mil that created the bearing housings and not a shaper? Keep getttin er done

[@aplavins]

Hey Keith, how many thou over or under is the shaft compared to the bore to get a press fit?

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks for the comment! ;{)-------

[@denniswilliams8747]

You probably should have put some shim stock between the blocks before boring to shaft size. This would allow some adjustment for wear before machineing again.

[@astriknon]

What sort of compound did you lap those bearings with on the raw stock? I have never thought of doing that myself, usually hone it. That seems like a better way for removing very small amounts of material, and was it just CRS?

[@GarnettM]

I was thinking like the old gear pumps it has a grease port where you fill the cap tub then screw it down to fill the gears a groove would keep the grease rolling so it carrys grease or oil around the brass collar plus keeps grease moving & don`t go hard incase general maintenance Is`nt a factor ,But I know what you mean ,This must be off a mini steam train eh.

[@papaike2]

Do you know or can you find out who made the locomotive in the first place?

[@KeithFenner]

Not able to now too long ago and has not been a repeater customer, out of the area! ;{)-----

[@ammagato]

I do not think there is another like you (at least on this site), one that strive for perfection as the most important thing, your work is really done to "workmanlike", only the Swiss watchmakers can compete with you, friendly regards, Elio.

[@n9zn]

I love things made late 1800's to early 1900's, that was a time when we made things to seemingly last forever. Now I am curious, did you notice if the drive wheels on the engine has metal tires heat fitted to the wheels like the bigger engines?

[@KeithFenner]

My customer said something about bringing the drive wheels over when he picks up these, we may find out that answer...

[@briantoblerone9625]

This maybe a dumb question but why don't they use roller bearings?

[@Kalkaekie]

Great work !

[@KeithFenner]

Yea that would be neat, it's over in Conn. somewhere! ;{)----

[@alanhaisley4870]

Did you go with a stainless for the new axle?

[@jayphilipwilliams]

Love the penny.

[@guubagaaba8391]

good tunes !!!!

[@davidwatsonii9469]

ANOTHER GOOD ONE RIGHT BEHIND IT TOO

[@heliarche]

What I don't understand is why not turn the shaft a few inches farther on each side so you don't have to bore the bearing blocks. Unless the bearings were already worn on the inside. I may have just solved my own dilemma...

[@aserta]

What really gets to me is that people who have this philosophy about "a hammer to fix anything" is that they don't understand that there's a bucket load of types of hammers and the "proverb" is "a thousand hammers, one for each job", none of which should of had been used on those bearings, thus deforming them.

[@nitro105]

I'd like to see a picture of the complete engine.

[@TheTarHeelTom]

Can't believe you didn't show us a bit of the whole locomotive.

[@KeithFenner]

I can't always get away and travel for minimum photo shoot and my customers sometimes skip the sending back even if promised sometimes. I only get pieces and parts most of the time. ;{)-----

[@MikeHarveyPhoto]

Real great music as well as great video's

[@Welderman34]

Keith your videos are truly inspiring! Some day I

[@KeithFenner]

LOL, that name could double for the maker of the dings! ;{)------

[@kcotney36]

;{)---

[@GarnettM]

Just wondered ,Thanks

[@f3518v]

seems like they would wanted shims in to adjust for wear at later date

[@KeithFenner]

About .0015 over was what I was shooting for on that project! ;{)-----

[@CompEdgeX2013]

Every time I watch I see something different....This time I was wondering what the clicking sound was until I noticed the coins under the wheel. 2 cent wheel chock...:)

[@royreynolds108]

The clicks were the bearing blocks not the coins.

[@PorkBarrel.]

What a difference 5 yrs makes eh?

[@KeithFenner]

acetone ;{)-----

[@Mtaalas]

That's what you did :)

[@hermanottink5856]

Don't talk so much, show them.

[@Goodwithwood69]

Or you could turn the sound off?

[@hermanottink5856]

Matthew Smith You did not understand my suggestion. We need the sound, not so much talking !

[@jamiebuckley1769]

Herman Ottink you dont like hearing and learning from kieth TURN YOUR SOUND OFF the audio and kieths voice kinda go hand in hand so i think you should talk less and listen more.

[@hermanottink5856]

Jamie Buckley Stupid boy.