WORST WEED you can have?

[@thomasharrell4803]

I like Celsius and Certainly combination. I also use Change up herbicide by itself. A big problem for me is Lespedeza. lespedeza I kill it and another patch shows up. My yard is 45000 sq. ft . Having a nice lawn is $$$$$$. I watch you a lot. thanks for your information

[@CentipedeCentralLawnCare]

Thanks, Yes I’ve heard great things about the Celsius/Certainty combo. I’ve wanted to try Change Up.

[@kmaximus77]

In our Centipede lawn, Poa has been my major fight, along with patches of chamberbitter and a few others (fireweed, creeping woodsorrel)...but so far doing 2 applications of atrazine as a pre-emergent and a mix of Celsius and Speedzone Southern as spot stray/post-emergent for the first time in years I'm on top of the weeds and our centipede is recovering and filling in nicely. Thanks for info you've provided in the videos, very helpful!

[@CentipedeCentralLawnCare]

Sounds perfect, thanks 👍

[@crystaljackson240]

Thanks for all ur videos. They really help me down here in mobile alabama 😊

[@alexmccraw129]

Chamberbitter pulls up easy if it's a small area

[@stantheman2194]

Celsius is probably the best. Still fighting those pesky Virginia buttonweeds here in SC.

[@GritsToastJam]

Speaking of Virginia.. I have some Virginia creeper that's a pain to remove in my backyard and it is slowly taking over. Short of using Roundup I don't know what to do other than hire a few goats to eat everything up. What is it with these evasive Virginia plants and weeds? lol

[@stantheman2194]

@@GritsToastJam VB is a tubular and deep rooted weed. Use celsius and follow directions to the letter. I applied celsius twice (3 weeks apart) and noticed a drastic reduction (75%) from last year. Patience! btw, I have centipede.

[@thom7557]

I'm getting beat up by crab grass and chamberbitter. It's brutal. Off to find some Celsius. Thank you!

[@Kevin01SH]

Ive got chamber bitter, mostly in a shaded spot below a japanese maple. Sprayed a cluster of them with changeup and they disappeared within days.

[@GritsToastJam]

I miss our Japanese maple, it was so pretty in the fall, then the neighborhood kids climbed into ours and broke the limbs off and it finally died this year over the winter. I agree that chamber bitter likes the shaded spots but maybe that has more to do with the thinning of the lawn in the shade or maybe the soil is too nutritious for the chamber bitter to pass up. I'll look up this Nufarm Change Up as it seems to be cheaper than Celsius and a few reviews say it didn't hurt the centipede but lower dosages needed for St Augustine grass. Hmmm..

[@Kevin01SH]

@@GritsToastJam i use 1/8 cup of changeup per gallon of water. Doesn't hurt centipede at all and kills most weeds within a week.

[@tannerharp-footnerd8395]

@@Kevin01SHdo you spot spray or can you broadcast spray with that?

[@Kevin01SH]

@@tannerharp-footnerd8395 i use it for spot treatment, mostly bc i dont need to blanket spray my yard. I use granular pre-em twice a year and typically only get a few trouble areas per year.

[@ReelNewwt]

I’m in Florida and have massive spurge issues

[@CentipedeCentralLawnCare]

Yeah Ive had some spurge issues in my front yard (zoysia)

[@greganderson951]

I'm having an attack of spotted spurge. And a little Chamberbitter showing up. I'm in Dothan. I may invest on a bottle of Celsius Xtra

[@TheBlooRayChannel]

How often do you guys water your Centipede lawns in Texas? It's been brutal and I have a fair few brown spots all over.

[@GritsToastJam]

Another question: I can't figure out why for Celsius that Amazon says, "This item cannot be shipped to your selected delivery location. Please choose a different delivery location." I even tried it with an Amazon DropBox. I can't find any restrictions to not sell in Florida. The Celsius WG - 0.226 oz Easy Mix Packet will ship, but then this becomes a math problem of treatment cost ratios vs child labor and candy. I better buy more candy before sugar prices go up. From a typical dad advice, I pay my children in candy to pull out these weeds and bag the clippings. I’m testing out one bag of tifblair seeds in a few trouble areas that are growing in slowly and I'm a little hesitant to apply any chemicals or make changes to the soil and upset the centipede until everything is well established. I'm in beast mode this year with my lawn, but I've got no money to spend after they jacked up the Insurance prices 20%. Currently I'm piecemealing everything to see what is cost effective. Still mostly aggravated with the St Augustine in the backyard under shady Oak Trees. It’s constantly dying off from Grey Leaf Spot and I’m dumping fungicides from June to August. None of this stuff helps the warm season grasses wanting to spread those sensitive stolon’s down into chemicals, it's like a cat staring down a 5-minute old, canned cat food and covering it all up. I'm keeping things simple this year with more mowing, bagging, some watering as needed which ends up as daily watering in 100F degree face melting hot weather to avoid the lawn bursting into dust and flames. Just the basics to remove the pressures from the lawn and promote growth. When money allows, I'm game for a few test options to see what additives help. The biggest change I've seen in my centipede grass was buying the Yard Butler and core aerating the dead spots and brushing in some peatmoss and keeping it watered in the morning. Which this reminds me I picked up a pH meter and found it interesting that I was testing at 6.5 to 7.0 on the top dirt layer and 5.0 in other places few inches down in the dirt. I probably added too much high pH stuff over the years and never noticed, and I was probably only thinking about the St. Augustine, like with the bags of Milorganite and topdressings. My common centipede grass has been struggling in the front yard. After removing one of the dead Oak Trees, it has opened so much sunlight and now that part of the lawn is drying up. I don't think there is any clay to hold water, it’s mostly sand and brown dirt, you water it and its bone dry in a few hours. I often never bother watering because it rains all the time in Florida, and that creates mold/fungus issues like with the St. Augustine. I'm starting to feel like this grass is sentient, and from what I can gather, it does not like extreme changes. Again, much like a cat that you can pet them for a while, but eventually they want to bite and claw the hand that feeds them. It reminds of plants that go-into-shock when you move or disturb them. Sorry about the long post.. I was stuck inside all day watching it rain and drifting into deep thoughts.

[@timpowell6030]

Celsius is marketed by Bayer. They have marketing programs that protect their distribution and dealer network. This is probably the issue. I was in ag chemical sales for many years and all kinds of games are played to keep distributors and retailers prices manipulated (higher). this keeps them happy and not looking for generic solutions.

[@diannedennis949]

This weed is in lawn and flowersbeds. can Celcius be applied (July)?

[@CentipedeCentralLawnCare]

Yes just apply when the temp is below 85. Late afternoon before sunset usually works and it’s less windy usually

[@jw7734]

I apologize in advance for the long-winded comment 😅… I noticed on one of my weed control herbicides (Grass Beater II), it says to mix with water as well as a surfactant/oil concentrate. I also saw online that some people mix surfactants in with atrazine, but that isn’t listed on my Hi Yield Atrazine mixing instructions. 3 questions: How do you know when it’s best to use a surfactant (if it isn’t on the label)? Is there one surfactant out there that can be used with all herbicides? Per Purdue University Extension, 1 tablespoon of household dish detergent/gallon of water/herbicide can be used if you don’t have a surfactant on hand. What are your thoughts on this?

[@CentipedeCentralLawnCare]

Yes I mainly do a squirt of dish soap to help with broadleaf herbicides so it sticks to the leaf better. I don’t with Atrazine because it is taken up through the roots.

[@scottmellard9597]

I used atrazine in February (south MS). No effect. Should I try again in May or go to Celcius? Chamber bitters is throughout the entire centipede lawn.

[@CentipedeCentralLawnCare]

I feel your pain, chamberbitter is tough! If you have emerged chamberbitter go ahead with the Celsius while it’s young. May want to add a surfactant so it sticks well to the weeds

[@jamesbartley6734]

Change Up herbicide from NuFarm works well on chamberbitter, lespedeza, dichondra and oxalis species. Centipede is very tolerant of ChangeUp. So many LCOs want to avoid treating Centipede but one can be successful with a "stop doing things to hurt it" approach. I appreciate your focus on the species and appreciate your accuracy on its care.

[@timpowell6030]

Isoxaben is by far the best choice for controlling chamber bitter. It must be applied pre emerge and timing is critical. Since chamber bitter germinates late spring-early summer, probably around 1st to 15th May would be best, depending on how fast the soil warms into the 70's. It is expensive. You can also buy it in granular form and apply it to landscape beds. It is labeled for hundreds of ornamentals. BTW, I do this for a living, not a science project it my backyard.

[@CentipedeCentralLawnCare]

Yeah I’ve mentioned isoxaben in the past but that’s really more of a professional product that only pro landscape/lawn care companies may use for multiple lawns. 99.9% of homeowners won’t go that route and spend that kind of money for a pre-emergent.