Would You Use Plastic Rubbish To Line Your Walls?

[@stever7066]

Rapidly turning from a builder who made a few films, to a film maker who does a bit of building. These exciting episodes just get better and better. Cheers.

[@mingn.z.8300]

VOW!!!! GREAT COMMENT

[@benjaminziegler7437]

All thanks to a collapsing economy, awesome isn't it

[@elliebunker6100]

It’s great! My shed has been completed and it turned out nice looking and sturdy and it is way better than the sheds that many of my neighbors had put up. Of course, I'm pleased with the outcome and this Ryan’s kzbin.infoUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans was extremely useful to me as a guide.

[@saigmundur]

I would be very sceptical of the magnesiumoxide boards. Here in Denmark it was used for wind barriers on the outside behind the wind screen. It caused a lot of problem because MgO is super hygroscopic. So it would absorb a lot of moisture from the air causing rot, black mold and corrosion. It probably won't be as bad in interior setting but still there can be pretty humid in a bedroom or bathroom.

[@BaberJacks]

Is it flamable.

[@hausbauconstruction2020]

@@BaberJacks no it's actually fire rated. check out IBS 2022 various content on yt, ie build show

[@KathrynMarr-katgirl]

I used to watch just for the building content and smoko breaks. Now I spend most of the episode waiting to see how Jess is going to introduce square space this time around :) lol, either way i'm still here watching .

[@edenf4519]

Another option is to infill all the stud work with hemp masonry then lime/clay plaster. 100% natural building products that, are fire proof, thermally efficient, breathable and low/no voc. An ideal project for a carpenter!!

[@davekavanagh7599]

Great thing to add to lime plaster is it regulates the humidity very nicely too 👌

[@davidcollins3241]

I've done 2 houses with mag board in Nz. Alot of extra labour goes into it, every sheet needs solid blocking around it for glue including ceilings. Not all sheets come with a tapered edge so you need a grinder attachment to make your own taper on a cut sheets. The finish is actually on the other side of the label you had aswell + goodluck finding a plasterer who knows how to properly finish it. We use 20mm mag board for flooring aswell

[@benhainsworth1247]

I rate the flooring, very easy to work with and excellent as substrate for tiling.

[@alexanderjamieson7971]

It seems like mag board would be excellent as a tile backerboard

[@samsboringchannel]

Another exciting episode. I think more time should be explored in finding alternatives, and especially healthy and environmentally friendly. We're totally reliant on gib, and it's brought the building industry to its knees. It really wasn't that long ago in the grand scheme of things we were lining with lathe and plaster, and we managed to transition away from that. Apparently gib have employed someone in chch who is checking sites with large orders are actually ready and not stockpiling. Theyre like a cartel! There's also a rumour that a large project down here (that my company is working on) has skipped the queue due to its buying power, which has really got under my skin. For a lot of builders, and by association all other site services, a payment cycle happens after first fix, which is being delayed by months, yet bug commercial projects are skipping the queue. Anyway I digress, have a great weekend mate!

[@jerrybow8779]

They won’t have to look very hard I saw a massive stoke pile last week inside a wharehouse belonging to a very well known nz biuilding franchise. Why is there such a bad shortage when it’s produced in nz?🤷

[@Overworkt]

I mentioned lath and plaster before..why don't we go back to that? Laths are fast growing and sustainable - and lime plaster is vapour open and super low VOC. Only issue is time I guess.

[@thomaswebby2431]

Should be using hemp products

[@paulcharteris1264]

Thanks Sam. Our saveBOARD products aren't perfect, however every board used saves 20-25kg of packaging waste going to landfill - and it is recyclable by us as well. We just use the same food packaging everyone trusts with their food to make our products. Check out www.saveboard.nz/faq

[@emmakai2243]

For the recycled plastic alternative, I'd be hesitant. Lots of questions about effects/durability from annual temperature/humidity fluctuations, toxic fumes during a fire, and considerations for repairs.

[@sergarlantyrell7847]

I mean the smoke from any fire is pretty much toxic anyway, plus there's the whole your house being on fire bit. For a single story dwelling, where you could be outside in seconds in case of a fire, I wouldn't be overly concerned. (I'd be more concerned about all the asbestos in their roof come crashing down and getting distributed around the neighbourhood.

[@emmakai2243]

@@sergarlantyrell7847 Of course. But it's relative. Given these options, I'd feel I'd have a better chance in a plasterboard/MgO bedroom on fire vs one lined with unknown recycled plastics. Asbestos and other stuff in the home are always considerations but are extraneous considerations. My main concern is temperature fluctuations, will the wall warp over time? will it cause cracks over long term? what paint do you use? how would you repair? skim coat required?, does standard joint compound work, etc.

[@sergarlantyrell7847]

@@emmakai2243 So thermal expansion of plasterboard is apparently about 0.0000167mm/℃ vs 0.00011mm/℃ for polyethylene, but drinks cartons are a mixture of polyethylene and paper (which is about half way in between), so I'm guessing you'd get just under 10x more expansion with the recycled one. So depends if your house is very well insulated & otherwise temperature controlled as to if that's a deal breaker. However, on the flips side I would think it would be less susceptible to moisture damage & expansion caused by the plasterboard swelling as it absorbs water.

[@MegaSureshock]

@@emmakai2243 Will council even approve it's use? As for paint it has a paper cover so any paint would work. The rigidity of the boards seems like a annoying constraint.

[@emmakai2243]

@@MegaSureshock I'm from USA, generally, you can trust materials from retailers are approved for use with appropriate installation. And yeah, better have your substructure/framing aligned. Installing/repairing plasterboard, when it comes to "flattening" butt ends would seem to be easier vs plastic walls...I'm just imagining the new difficulties between sanding/scraping/repairing plastic vs plasterboard/MgO.

[@rsmith7292]

Great Video -- in California, 5/8" sheetrock provides a "one-hour firewall" and is required between a garage and the living space. I admire you for digging in and organizing your space!

[@drbass9677]

10mm gib lasts 30 min in a fire so in schools, workshops and garages they often put 2 sheets of gib to provide an extra 30 mins.

[@66meikou]

@@drbass9677 10mm of gib is less than 1/2 inch. It wouldn't meet code here. .625" is min for a 1 hr rating so that's 16mm +-

[@drbass9677]

@@66meikou oh damn, you also get 13mm gib but it’s mainly used for cellings.

[@davidbrewer7937]

Actually I would prefer it. Because it would be water proof & mold proof... On the subject of fireproofing, after our home burned down in early 2017, which is where I went from electronics engineer to contractor (different story) & we learned a lot. The results were shocking. Paint burns like plastic & the items in the home contribute to the toxic soup which coats everything with an acrid fume soup. This means that worrying about the walls is like worrying that the rood is leaking when there is a tsunami heading your way...

[@beniamincolta709]

Hi Scott, What about if you don’t use any of these options. Clad some walls with plywood, stucco, shiplap, siding, tiles, etc Wall-to-wall library. You get the idea to treat each partition separately, more like an accent wall.

[@joehart3826]

Absolutely

[@corlissmedia2.0]

Walk to wall library walls is an excellent idea.

[@adammetc]

I heard a big part of the problem in NZ is that the design has to specify the material used down to the brand (so Gib is specified as it was the easiest to get a hold of). If councils would accept "suitable substitute" without adding months of delay and costs, there'd be all sorts of alternatives. As it is, they're a regulatory choke on innovation. They're doing it in response to some poor materials used in the past. If things were on a scale from "underreaction" to "overreaction" it'd be easy to say that they might be overreacting, but the reality is that you can overreact and still let bad stuff through, or underreact and still block good stuff...

[@rawiriblundell]

From what I can tell it's the architects and draughtsmen who need to change - they're the ones putting "lined with Gib(tm) Aqualine(tm) 10mm" on their drawings, councils are just enforcing that. But absolutely your solution is the correct one. Our building products companies - Placemakers, ITM, even the big box retailers - are also in the pocket of the big two building products manufacturers, so that's something else that needs to be broken up. On average we pay 30% more than in Australia and 60% more than in North America. "Remote tiny population economics" can explain away only so much of that difference.

[@philipthoreau3590]

Councils should get completely out of building except for town planning issues. When you have your car serviced you do not expect the repairs to be inspected and underwritten by ratepayers. The motor businesses carry PI insurance and so can the building industry. Councils and the building industry are using building rules and inspections to create income but dressing it up as a public service. This is why the building cost is many times the cost of even our closest neighbour, Australia. And what is primarily driving materials shortages in New Zealand. On the building product issue specifically, there is any amount of equivalent or better quality alternative product readily available offshore. However active cooperation of councils, government organisations (MBIE/Branz) and essentially monopoly/duopoly producers in a small market has created artificial shortage and producer profit at the detriment of hugely increased build cost.

[@slooob23]

They shouldn't be relying on plaster board as a bracing element, then none of this brand nonsense would matter. It didn't perform well in the Christchurch earthquake, with reports of plaster board exploding off the walls in modern homes.

[@davids8493]

15:01 I need a paint sprayer! I mentioned exactly that when you were getting ready to paint your garage. You want an airless paint sprayer that goes right in your paint bucket with the feed tube.

[@timderks5960]

Apart from a lot of other concerns like microplastics from cutting, plastic sourcing (if it's popular enough, it won't just be plastic waste they'll use, so we'll be producing even more plastic), I'm very concerned about fire safety. Plasterboard is very fire resistant and basically inert. Plastic on the other hand is not, and will give of some very nasty fumes and thick black smoke in a fire. Both are things that make a fire a lot more deadly, and that's without considering the increased fire spreading due to the lack of fire resistance. Again, it's not about "is it flammable or not", it's about "what happens when it's in a fire". Plasterboard: nothing. Plastic: Thick, toxic smoke that both chokes / poisons you and reduces your vision. Don't get me wrong, I like the idea of recycling like this, but the only way these plastic sheets should be used is as tiles that you don't have to cut, and only outside. And even then, they probably shouldn't be in direct sunlight or in rain, since those probably wear down the plastic over time and release microplastics. There's a place for plastic, but construction material really isn't it.

[@b1g1lz]

If you look at the msd sheet it's around 70% wood with only 20% plastic. It has the same fire rating as plywood and MDF

[@pauledwards9493]

Don't know why my notification settings have changed for you Scott, glad I checked for a new upload.

[@j.markkrzystofiak9907]

Was on edge for the Jess square space transition in the chat there. Then it comes clean out of nowhere. She is the master!

[@benstiglmayer5387]

Hey Scott if your worried about expense for the save board, maybe an alternative to skim coat would be to wallpaper it. You’d still have to plaster joins but that’s not a huge worry

[@boudewijnNL]

Suggested alternatives: Wattle and daub (plaster over reed paneling). It was good enough 100 years ago, why not now. Or environmentally friendly loam. Sometimes available as loam board for direct gib replacement. Or as a plaster material. It's basically just dirt, so it doesn't burn and is as healthy as regular dirt.

[@ronwallace7563]

JESS!!! The master of the sponsor transition!!! LMAO!! LOVE IT!! Scott, you have to keep her on, if for nothing else but that....sponsor transitions.

[@pwapwap]

Save board looks really durable. Would be good for schools etc where it might get a hard life.

[@HarryLovesRuth]

I thought the same thing. Really good for a gymnasium. I used to do some volunteering with a charity that used a parish hall for workspace. The hall doubled as a basketball court. That place was beat all to heck.

[@scottbramley1778]

I think someone needs to come up with a Hemp/lime based board to use as an alternative to GiB. It would be non toxic, non flamable & environmentally sustainable.

[@abrahamdionne7702]

Have you seen the KZbin channel “undecided with matt Ferrell”? He has a few videos about hemp materials in construction.

[@SovereignStorm]

There are clay based boards with a plant fiber gaze here in germany, but I hear they are a real pain on the a** in comparison to plaster board. No flattened edges, no smooth paper, less sturdy, more expensive and you have to at least apply a thin layer of clay plaster on the whole surface to get a nice finish which has a lot of moisture that needs to evaporate. Long story short: you have to really want them, to go through that trouble, but they have a very small impact on the emvironment and superior room climate in your house. One manufacturer I can think of off the top of my head would be claytec. I think they have videos in english on KZbin

[@cameronbyrne3381]

Gip, shortened gypsum

[@taniamacdonald5596]

Have you seen the hempcrete boards made by Kohu Hemp in Nelson? Sounds impressive Would love to see a video about its effectiveness.

[@JunoBanuno]

Not really sure if it's a thing u can get in NZ, But in Denmark, Sweeden and Norway we have a thing called "Fermacel" Its our alternative to plasterboard that need to be cut with the tracksaw, and shot onto the studs. The great thing with Fermacel is that what two plasterboards does, does one fermacel board

[@jonesconrad1]

we use it here in the UK in places like hospitals. the glue is really useful for other things,

[@kiwigrunt330]

I used Fermacel in Dutchland over 30 years ago. The alternative we have here is a fibre cement sheet that is a bit denser and heavier, mainly used for bathrooms.

[@Wheeznbreezn]

Plenty of gib hiding round apparently. 2 massive warehouses found in Hornby, Christchurch. Our project manager had a yarn with a truck driver whose been transporting it direct from winstones factory, he went and had a look through the windows at these unmarked warehouses and all 10mm standard in there. Theyr trying to say its for a big job but rumor has it that its heighten demand and put prices up, winstones could be in some trouble. Same thing will be happening near the Auckland plant

[@michielrooijakkers]

In Europe we also have some other (eco-friendly) alternatives for plasterboard, like Fermacell (mostly cellulose with some gypsum) or loam/clay boards. No clue though if these type of boards are also available in New Zealand and hence an option for you.

[@tangoduck01]

Best Jess episode ever. Everytime she appears, I look for her seamlessly providing a recommendation for a sponsor. Love it!

[@ThacMan]

I'm always struck by the beautiful surroundings of your new town. The B-roll editing is perfect. I truly get mesmerized in a Scott Brown video.

[@sergarlantyrell7847]

8:04 - Polyethylene is just the material the old plastic bags you used to get in supermarkets (as well as a lot of packaging) is made from. I think it's pretty inert and non-toxic (unless you burn it, or leave it to break down in the ocean, in which case it could be a hazard for marine life). While I don't know for sure, I doubt it's any worse than wood or plasterboard.

[@boudewijnNL]

It's also what soda bottles are made from, and the lining of tetra paks. PET is a pretty solid and safe material. Probably safer to have it in your wall than as micro plastic in your ocean or your food, where it currently is.

[@sergarlantyrell7847]

@@boudewijnNL that's a good point, any plastics that are being used as food containers are going to be food-safe & non-toxic as they need to not leech toxins (or anything really) into your food.

[@Delgen1951]

@@sergarlantyrell7847 however fire chages that by changeing the chemical content and adding soot and causes the fire to burn hotter, it is oil ather all.

[@kiwigrunt330]

Plasterboard (standard) can be crunched up and thrown in your garden.

[@jordanschache5757]

Scott mate, your videos are seriously awesome, they look great and are informative as. They're always a Saturday morning highlight!

[@greghull4144]

I used magnum board on a house I recently built and personally didn’t like using it, we cut each sheet using a rail saw and it all had to be skimmed because it had air bubbles all over the sheet. Also at the time (I’m not sure if it’s appropriate now) but it wasn’t compatible with brace walls I.e gs1 council wouldn’t pass it.

[@Damman22]

Does it dull the blade quickly?

[@greghull4144]

@@Damman22 we used a cement board blade which worked ok

[@woasc0ut]

@@Damman22 you have to use a PCD blade - any carbide blade will last about 3-5 cuts. Kills multitool blades quickly (hard for flush boxes)

[@woasc0ut]

I forgot about that - and how were your joints? Hairline cracking?

[@MKRM27]

Do you not skim the walls after plasterboard?

[@Goabnb94]

Regarding fire, do remember that while timber may be flammable, it also is not synthetic (synthetic materials put off toxic fumes while burning), and timber needs to smolder all the way through before the structure is compromised at which point you've either escaped or died before it fills in on you. Steel framed houses can fall apart more quickly as the heat compromises the structure. Ultimately, this is what smoke alarms are for.

[@filiphauangundersen3228]

Hello from Norway! In Norway we have a product called walls2paint. We also have panel-sheets that look kinda like panel, if you wanna check it out it is called panelplater or smartpanel. The sheets are about 60x240 cm (ca. 24x96 inches). Fastening is done with headless nail, cramps, glue or screws or a combination of them. The sheets are made for studs at cc 60cm, but you can also fasten them to blockings that are spaced at maximum distance of 60 cm (ca. 24 inches) but you have to use an extra fastener or two. The sheets are made out of mdf like materials. Also I loved your use of classical music in the video.

[@darkerbright]

Sorry I rushed my last post. To elaborate a little and based on my limited research while doing a self build office. Wood fibre cement board can be plastered over, is fire retardant, although you need to find a supplier that has the certificates, if left bare is a natural sound dampener and is used for this purpose alot. It's quite light. I believe it is also better for the environment been mostly wood and can be recycled. It requires a saw to cut it and its between 2-8 times the price of paster board depending on the profile you purchase. Maybe this is helpful to someone or yourself Scott.

[@joseph603]

Would be interested in understanding the R value of these alternatives and if they provide any extra insulation or sound absorbing properties vs plaster board

[@abe34fizzy]

Also all the micro plastics going into the environment every time you make a cut. I would pass unless its for areas where you wont be making any cuts

[@QALibrary]

Very good point

[@b1g1lz]

@@abe34fizzy I'd look more at the fact that each sheet probably removes 4 or 500 bottles from the environment. The material from the cut wouldn't even be the equivalent of one bottle.

[@joehart3826]

Plastic tend to cut as chunks...?? I think your point is over pedantic, especially with Festool ctl mini etc

[@sigi9669]

R value will be negligible for both, sllightly better for the plastic. But you're gaining some thermal mass with the Mag board. Which, together with the actual insulation, will likely give you a better systemb overall. Sounds insulation can indeed be interesting. General approach is to have a high specific weight material. That's also very flexible. So first guess would be that again the Mag board will be better. But compound materials can sometimes behave surprisingly well. So there's hope for the milk box board.. :-) Where we shouldn't forget that every (combination of) material(s) has a resonance frequency. And if that frequency happens to match the spin cycle of the washing machine next to it, none of the previous points matter anymore.

[@raduteodorpetrica2344]

I learned so much from your videos. Thanks for going so in depth with showing us your activity in general. Always pointing out interesting details. Thanks and keep them coming.

[@baldyslapnut.]

Lath/plaster as others have suggested? Sleeper walls from ground up and blockwork/timber framing hybrid interior walls? I know you can work below ground to get some concrete footings in place if you absolutely had to ;-). Depends what regs. allow and if amendments are signed off quick enough. I'd be working with what was available or just accept the need to wait until your order/allocation arrives. Nothing to stop you proceeding just won't look "finished" for a while.

[@mmtimy]

Hey if was in situation i would be look at importing container full of drywall / Chipboard. Take what you need. Sell the rest and it would pay for renovations.

[@johnstewartrichards5922]

Past experience with MagO board used for sub-flooring had crumbled edges. What Material Research has examined different cementitious blends for MagO boards? Do edges need primer to seal & harden cut edges? Should primer be on both sides? Review humidity testing & absorption and Volatile Organic Compounds for all boards. Test for capillary action. The unpainted MDF showed why you do not want water absorbing up edges, and why all MDF needs painting. What IANZ certified test lab work has been completed on products you are considering? Are there other, or new materials research tests you think that should be conducted? Fire Resistance is variable & important to measure. Tested products will have fire withstand ratings. Some may outgass in fire conditions. Look at Intumescent putty pads to seal air gaps behind electrical back boxes. If a wiring device fails in a back box, these pads can stop the spread of hot gasses and will swell, sealing hot gasses from escaping. 3M & HILTI both have these. Talk to your local Fire Dept. Tell them about your problem & new materials you & others consider using. Fire Dept’s spend a lot of time practicing putting out fires. Find out if you can build mock-ups that they can test & burn. As temperature rises, they might be able to measure outgassing VOCs for you too. Do the wall boards have IK impact test ratings? A bathroom downlight might be IP66. In a factory it might be IP66 for dust & water, plus IK16 for impact. Different wall boards may expand (or not) in some variance to wood studs. You might want to look at Trim-Tex deflection beads for movement & acoustic control and bullnoses for smooth rounded edge corners.These smooth the transition of light from one surface to the next and look great. One more test? What skim coat blends work best on each surface? Last test? Try cleaning surfaces with Tri Sodium Phosphate & water. This should do the best job to clean any surface so paint has the best clean surface on which to to cure. Hope this helps for your next episode(s)?

[@sebs751]

Honestly I look forward to the way they will introduce the Squarespace AD with each new video

[@misteritscuz]

The final blooper felt precisely like my whole life including your reaction to it.

[@shawnanwo]

I've always loved Jess, but 6:38-7:14 really seals the deal 🤣she was so pumped about smashing the sample!!!

[@aspees]

AU/NZ residential standard plasterboard is non-fire rated 10mm(3/8") North American is fire rated 1/2"(13mm).

[@TheJohnno25]

I know how you feel. I ordered and paid for mine in January, for .delivery in May. Now it’s been put back till August! I only need 22 sheets for renovation but Winstones have pushed me down the list

[@krzysiej--9229]

I have used cement board called Cementex made by Siniat for exterior of a building as it is waterproof and it can be even submerged in water. It comes in 2400mm by 1200mm sheet. I used 8mm thick as it is plenty strong. It was quite heavy to handle and I had to use self taping screws that drill into the board first and then grabs the wood behind it. To path it I used cement patching compound and a plastic mesh (the same used for gib). To cut it i had to use angle grinder with a concrete/diamond cutting disc. Here in Poland I paid 168PLN/58NZD per sheet. They have Australian version of a page.

[@fischer8447]

My main concern about the plastic one is the microplastics being throw around during cutting on the circle saw etc. Combined with some of the other comments regard fumes during a potentiel fire etc.

[@paulcharteris1264]

Hi Fischer, check out our FAQ section on our website to answer some of your questions. It has the same fire rating as other wood based products and releases less toxic fumes than plywood when burnt as it does not contain formaldehyde glues or resins. www.saveboard.nz/faq

[@ldkrkbr6748]

Here in switzerlan we use Fermacell witch is a cement sheet diferent type of fermacell also has a mesh init for bathrooms, fermacell has an fire resistence of 30min or up to 45 min.

[@lontar4789]

very cool to see the garage/workshop transform a little bit every week

[@10soccerismylife]

I've been Watchung this channel about 2 years ago and I love them they are constantly getting better in terms of filming stuff and ecolaing stuff and b roll its all great love it bro. Cheers! From the U.S.

[@jasvir17]

I adore these videos. I don't know what it is about the b roll footage but the mundane, candid and somebody else's "ordinary" is so intriguing. The clips between 17:23 to 17:35 were so soothing... I could have watched and listened for hours!

[@votemikejones86]

That ad tag-in got a real chuckle out of me, bravo.

[@votemikejones86]

I commented before the end, that really got me!!

[@bertv1205]

Hi Scott - I really dislike gypsum board and choose to use cement fibre where that kind of product was needed. Never regretted that.

[@66meikou]

Cementitious board is fine for bathroom walls where they will be tiled but I would like to use it as am interior finish board as you need to skim coat it.

[@ChainringTours]

In lue of that skim coat look into a paint system like the one from Detale CPH, Kabric. It's like a paint on plaster that has texture, so it will stop the need for that skim coat (imperfections blend with the rest of the paint) and it gives you that high end hand plastered look. We used it on a wall that had very old damaged surface after wall paper was removed. If you like the look, it can cut down on that part of the process and cost.

[@JL-hn6hi]

Very nice to have a covered outdoor work area. Love it.

[@fxltz4925]

just a thought, you could use lining paper on top of a plasterboard alternative to get a smoother finish ready for decoration (if you don't skim) - great video and good luck!!

[@eamonstynes440]

Unfortunately lining paper will still show the under lying imperfections, covers a small amount but not much.

[@kadmow]

For places where people always texture walls, slight imperfection on save board (or others) isn't a problem. (High Level Plaster finishing needs a skim anyway.. -MgO board is "fire resistant" - useful for dual occupancy, ceilings / party walls, etc...

[@Dale1C]

we use mag board for window and door 'drywall' returns. Have to cut it on a table saw, the dust is terrible, then we just brad nail it on. The plasterers just mud it as normal for drywall. It's supposed to be super water and mould resistant, which is why we like it tucked up behind the edges of windows, but it is a pain to cut.

[@cb2000a]

Gypsum can be re-cycled (called drywall here in America). We have plenty of it in Hawaii although it does cost a lot more than it used to.

[@evanharriman5352]

Bloopers aren’t always my favorite, but this one was fantastic!

[@renderwood]

We have Fermacell boards. They are "gybsum boards", but without the paper and double density. One board weights 45kg.

[@t.h.o.r.]

The dust on that second product sounds very beneficial to the body- Magnesium is a great supplement. But hey- what would I know?- Im neither a doctor or a builder- Im a hippy in a housetruck

[@LadyGracing]

Farmacell is also a great option. You use half the borad (only one layer, where as you need 2 with Plaster (in Denmark anyway) and it is more sound insulating and moisture resistant)

[@christopherinteriors6521]

Even if plasterboard was available where you are, the plastic stuff would be a good idea for bathrooms anyway. In some places in the world you would need moisture resistant material such as the green plasterboard or green MDF. The price then wouldn't seem so different. It is already moisture proof and mould proof. After the sad events of Grenfell tower here in the UK, people are focusing a lot more on fireproof materials. Sadly, the best material ever invented for construction is still asbestos which ticks every single box... but one...the dust.

[@ws6619]

super interesting products. finding an alternative to drywall (gypsum) using recycled materials is a neat idea.

[@ryancooper9863]

A timber frame house even though it is combustible may offer a slight advance compared to a steel frame house, however it is all dependent on fire loading inside house through the interior linings, furniture and furnishings

[@TheMelbournelad]

Awesome. And can always melt it down to make a mallet head

[@dhammer5645]

If you truly are worried about the rafter that is butted into the door frame you could put a joist hanger on it. Lucky NZ doesn't see alot of snow.

[@brewbuildsit]

We live in a 1946 “cottage” and there are some very odd materials here and there. Like plaster and “lathe” made of something that resembles 1/4 drywall but with small holes through it for keying the plaster. And clay sewer pipes (the city lines too, although as we speak they are being modernized!) because there was a shortage of iron, and the list goes on…But that’s what makes this house interesting. There’s a history here that honestly has helped us cope with the insanity in the world. A reminder that things have been weird, tragic, difficult many times before and that resilience means making due with what we have. Now your house will hold the history of today and help some future generation understand this moment in time. Cheers, and hey, I think a feature wall Or maybe a “wainscot” of that smashed plastic board could be very on trend and modern in the garage or the house!

[@maxjones4699]

The house I grew up in was built during a time of material shortages too, in the 50's, so there wasn't any kind of plaster walls to be seen in it except one bedroom. All the other rooms were lined with Masonite (eucaboard to Americans, I believe) or what we knew as canite board (used to be used for pinboards) in the kids rooms because it helped deaden sound. Ceilings too. Painted up quite well, and we wallpapered over a lot of it also.

[@seanwillmott8294]

The Mixing of the paint makes me laugh every time. Thankyou so much I needed a laugh today.

[@nasserisback488]

We had a massive issue with plasterboard/ drywall and plaster the first year of covid. Couldn't find it anywhere. I lost a shop refurb as a result. By the time plaster was available I was booked on other jobs and the shop customer found someone else.

[@flangekiwi]

Oooooh, excited! Saw this new product on the news. Looking forward to seeing what you think 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾 (Don't forget Elephant board)

[@WeddingDJBusiness]

You could try weathertex or weather groove they have panels that are a T& G look and have been used inside for walls etc. Gib has become very standard in NZ and hard to believe there is a shortage.

[@linusnilsson6866]

Love your videos Scott! But everytime I walk in to the stores and see a thousand sheets of plasterboard I think of you and wonder if there is a way to ship them to nz, I live in Sweden. Keep up rhe awesome work u and Jess

[@lethargicmotorsport2025]

We have plenty here in the mid southern US as well. If I had a boat I would bring you some.

[@meenakshicaird7107]

It's very stupid in NZ! The plans state what brand of plasterboard you need to use! Competitors have tried to come in to NZ and failed because all builders and architects want to use Gib board sheets which has come back to bite them in the foot!

[@simonRTJ]

@@meenakshicaird7107 NZ council red tape is the 2nd main reason for crap houses and building standards. its way behind European code, and totally open to plain sight corruption with BRANZ approvals and stated materials on plans. Placem***** ( I know a high level manager) who wine dine and bribe their way to monopoly supply. I found out yesterday I need a to hire a licensed professional to install the waterproofing in a new shower, then, I need a visit and sign off from a council inspector, which is costly, and time wasteful. we gave up on a self build because we couldn't get past the red tape. wer'e thinking of moving away to Europe.

[@sigi9669]

I'm in Europe, so there's very little timber frame around. But when I do employ it, I'm surely wrapping it in fireproof materials! Regular plasterboard is already completely fireproof. The only reason for the existence of the (very expensive) "fireproof" version is the fact that while it'll never burn itself, it will eventually deteriorate in a fire. As the chemically bound water gets burned of, eventually turning it back into the powder it was made from. The fire rated version will have some glass fibre in it, to keep the board structurally sound a tad longer. Especially in ceilings, as gravity isn't helping there. That being said. For walls I'll rather use a double layer of regular sheets. Ends up with a better fire rating (measured in minutes over here) for a much lower cost. On to health concerns: mineral over petrochemical every time for me! Any mineral product will emit radon (radiation). I do always check the specifics whenever I encounter a new material. But it's generally very low, and easily negated with half decent ventilation. Any plastic will off gas VOC's like formaldehyde. And this will increase over time as the plastic deteriorates. While there's no getting around some VOC emissions in modern construction. The stuff is poisonous at any level. So less is just better. Combine that with the Mag board being heavier (more thermal mass and likely better sound insulation) and I'd have my winner right there! Having said that. I do very much like the look of that milk carton board..

[@katrinabell7684]

Interesting information SBC. Keep the good stuff rolling! Interesting comments too. In NZ we have had too many leaky homes, so it is very important to have the right product as a foundation. Shame about the coffee.🙃😎

[@HarryLovesRuth]

The dark rafters against the white underlayment(?) looks really good.

[@tenminutetokyo2643]

In Japan they grind up their plastics and put it in road pavement which makes the roads flexible and prevents them from cracking.

[@ccg4387]

Thoroughly enjoyed watching your video- thank you. It’s fascinating watching you go through the decisions that need to be made.

[@GlenS123]

Thanks for showing us options.

[@narco73]

I looked at that magnum board stuff. People have had trouble overseas with it causing corrosion, all though the local people say they don’t get this problem for some reason. I also have a friend who used a similar product, for the sides of SIPs, and it all cracked. The company they got it from went bankrupt, so they couldn’t get it fixed. Again, the company I spoke to says that their product doesn’t do this. Also gib stopping, or lack there of is a big consideration with alternative products.

[@cj-ef1rp]

I’m picturing the garage painted like the van, color stripes and all 😉

[@MB.19]

Another good quality vid Scott, would love to get an update on how things are going since moving to Nelson. Plans for getting back to work filming, How’s Paerau going etc etc you know the drill.

[@littlebitofeverything8307]

First question is how they stand up in a fire?? Drywall is also there to provide the wood structure some temporary protection from fire.

[@knoodkuhl19]

I would recommend Clay-boards. I dont know the english term for it, but you can use them like plasterboard but they are made from clay and some fibres. not flammable, healthy (nothing toxic in there), regulating the moisture content, really eco-friendly, easy recycling (put them on the ground and wait for rain, then plant tomatoes :P). in germany they are at least twice as expensive than plasterboard. but might be an option. if you go for it you should use clay plaster and clay based paint as well to sustain the moisture regulating abilities of clay.

[@johntak1187]

Great to see Australia still has plenty of plasterboard. $16 per sheet (2400x1200x10). Demolition stage right now, don't want another cost to cover, framing 126% increase, steel, 46% increase, labour 300% increase. Anymore increases, I'll be selling tents for a living.

[@MegaBCAD]

For me it would be save bored for the win I’m next door in aus and we use a lot of brick so like the idea of a stronger bored and a skim coat I feel works better for the long run better looking repairs because you chip the skim coat of and blend the repair better with out making it bumpy/thicker

[@paulcharteris1264]

Thanks Aussie Wombat for the vote of confidence. We are coming to Australia later this year and opening a plant in Sydney intially.

[@zanshin720]

It would work well in wet areas like bathroom/shower lining as it's plastic and wont soak up water.

[@doofusmaguilacutee4998]

Maybe the Magnum Board (if that's all that was available). Definitely not the recycled plastic board. Besides the fact that I think it's "too busy looking", i would be concerned with the toxicity both from "off-gassing" & deadly fumes in the event of a fire.

[@QALibrary]

My only concern about this is the fireproofing and what happens in the fire to the materials - are they passed to be able to use in a stairwells etc?

[@Robert-cu9bm]

I'd rather wait for plasterboard, rather than be thinking thinking that when I'm trying to escape my house on fire.

[@phillipspellman1003]

Nope not group number 1S. I'd be a little worried about the saveboard on my walls. I would prefer ply, even in a fire it burns and chars more predictably.

[@gazinlimbo]

@@phillipspellman1003 same fire rating as ply on it's website. i know it's info from there own site, but for sure with no resins that's going to bring it down in toxicity

[@court2379]

The smoke is likely to be the big issue. Burning plastics produce toxic compounds that build up quickly and asphyxiate the occupants.

[@appahman]

I love Jess's Segues so glad to see her more involved, great videos keep it up!

[@kiririkihana3011]

Me too... when she appears I'm like '...any second now...'

[@scottmcintyre5986]

Cheekily asked Paul at SaveBoard to flick me some samples as a plasterboard alternative for lining our sleepout. Strong stuff! Planning to use the paper-faced boards once our Council approves a minor variation to our consent >shakes fist at all architects and companies who default to ‘Gib’ on approved plans vice ‘plasterboard or equivalent’

[@TheMelbournelad]

There is a board called dynoboard I think here made here in Australia that’s like fire resistance etc made from basically mulch. Ild assume it’s over there

[@ttvoclaw675]

Okay, so I'm from England UK. Over here we use plaster over everything. So everything gets skim coated. So possibly those items could be for a market like ours. We don't tape and plaster joints. Everything gets a coat

[@HotForgeChaos]

Just commenting before I finish the video. My foreman and myself were chatting about alternative interior linings, and if you're doing no-consent reno work this is fine, but if you were to use this on a new build, good luck, because the architects are really reluctant to use anything that isn't Gib product, because they have all the bracing calculations already on hand unlike products from Saint Gobain or USG Boral. Council inspectors throw an absolute wobbly when they see ProRoc on site. The same can be said for those recycled products you have. I'm looking into using Juken NZ Triboard (the triboard mill is just up the road from me in Kaitaia) for my non-wet area linings. It has far more bracing units than even blue Gib, better acoustic properties, passes the 60 60 60 fire rating, and all you do is ariss the edges with a block plane, and glue and pin the sheet to the wall. Your walls don't need to be as straight as they do for gypsum wallboards either. Its also cheaper than Gib, about $30 a sheet compared to about $55-60 a sheet at the moment.

[@Tryinghardtobecreative]

You need to work with some new architects! ;) all those boards also have bracing calcs available. It is really unfortunate that there is so much misinformation that ‘we have to use gib’. Council inspectors can do or say whatever they like, if you are working off a set of plans that are stamped with a consent, then you use what is specified regardless if the inspector happens to like it or not. It’s not their job to approve it, it has already been approved if you are building it. If you are substituting materials that have been specified, then that’s a different story, and you will rightly have your wrists slapped :)

[@home-space]

One of the big problems is that gib is also used for bracing. Not sure how those other products handle that. I also wonder how they cope with breathing and moisture

[@kiwigrunt330]

If you're worried about fire ratings of wall linings, I'd say the Tetra sheets would have zero rating and be toxic to boot. Rather than compromising with more expensive alternatives, I'd wait it out. Gib is cheep, easy and it works. It is also pretty environmentally friendly at the end of its life. You can basically crunch it up feed it to the worms.

[@TheEdwardSaenz]

Looking forward to your blooper reel of things from the whole year.

[@stultsn]

Stopping everything to watch the next SCOTT BROWN CARPENTRY VIDEO! Love your channel bud

[@marktunney5000]

I use the mag board as a tile backer for showers.

[@ChainringTours]

My guess is that save board would give you some serious structural strength, especially in racking, on a timber wall, likely similar (but less) than plywood). so something to consider.

[@paulcharteris1264]

Hi Gregg, you are correct it performs very well in bracing. 150% better than plasterboard as a bracing element and as you can see from Scott's video super impact resistant!

[@curtiswilliams7638]

I heard about plastic being inside a building on fire and the smoke was toxic, just a note for you scott i know your a good carpenter and youll figure it out as long as you go by the manufacturer guidelines.

[@randomlyrusty5427]

My concern would be when trimming out a door. Sometimes when installing trim the drywall sticks out farther than the door jamb. I can easily hit it with a hammer to help relieve the part that sticks out. I wonder how much work it would take to fix that with these products.

[@evanw5404]

Just means you end up needing to plane the difference out of the back of the archatraves.