WW'nTips-n-Tricks

[@ClarasWoodshop]

Thank you so much for the shoutout! I’ve also never actually heard of the terminology of wood being bruised before - really informative video! I learned something today :-)

[@Brad_R_LiveFit]

Your content is always information rich. I learn more from you than all of the other woodworking/turning channels I subscribe to, with the exception of one. Your content and that of the other channel are on par with each other, but head and shoulders above the rest. Truly, I am grateful for having found your channel and for the opportunity to learn from someone who shares their immense wealth of knowledge with others so freely and effectively. As for the freely part, you don't charge for these master classes you put out, but that doesn't mean I can't thank you for your generosity and altruism. Patreon membership has been purchased. Please continue to share your knowledge and experience with us. Speaking from my own experience, your knowledge and experience makes us better woodworkers.

[@wortheffort]

Check out Brian Haven's turning channel. I think he passed but his content is top notch still.

[@wardwilson3216]

Super informative, Shawn. Thanks for sharing!!

[@peterstevens6555]

Good afternoon from Auckland, New Zealand ... 🙂🙂🙂

[@thomashverring9484]

Great video, Shawn!

[@richpeggyfranks490]

Your artistic and articulation skills are epic. Thx.

[@Artexmadera]

ooooooh yeah, I knew those ridges were there to haunt me but now I know why they are there, thanks for the tip, keep them coming

[@marcbarash6045]

Thanks Shawn, very good video with lots of information and explanation.

[@waifudefenders]

I've never worked wood or ever plan to, but really good watch! super good explaining

[@vasbites]

Great stuff as always

[@markduggan3451]

Very informative.

[@Brian-tb1zs]

Great video, appreciate it !

[@Ramplcro]

The thing happened to me recently when i was finish hand planing only to notice later some strange marks while applying oil. Thanks a bunch 🤘

[@TheSMEAC]

It’s also important to note that there are times where we want to uniformly crush/bruise. Burnishing is a systematic and targeted example; I really like the polissoir method and even combine wax.

[@wortheffort]

That's different.

[@Americadodgedabullet]

Thank you for making vids like this, i will be on the lookout for uglies before i finish (if i can see them that is) im sure you already have but if you could do a vid on fixing mistakes that would be very helpful, i tend to retain more of the things i learn from your style of teaching.

[@timbutler3733]

Good video, thanks

[@williamhanna5224]

Excellent !)

[@LindsayFamily]

Awesome! This explains a lot. I've run into this problem, and I've seen others complain of it too. But I, and others, thought it was an issue with the finishing technique; not bruised wood. Then, when I sanded off the finish, I just thought I did a better job finishing the second time. Little did I know, I likely just sanded below the bruise. Thanks!

[@dpmeyer4867]

thanks

[@gregwilsonnaturephotography]

With careful cruising, there won't be any wood bruising.... Great information!

[@wortheffort]

I shoulda expected snark from the pineapple crowd. hehe

[@gregwilsonnaturephotography]

I just had to lol 😀

[@emm_arr]

Informative. Thanl you. Is ths part of the rationale of dampening the wood to raise the grain before you sand a bit more and then say it's sanded smooth?

[@wortheffort]

O that’s different.

[@emm_arr]

@@wortheffort Thank you. I wish I'd known this as a teenager when I first started trying to make stuff!

[@pedroclaudio3401]

when planing, may this happen to any wood, or only the softest?

[@wortheffort]

the shavings are coming off the wood you are planing so they are the same hardness per thickness.

[@pedroclaudio3401]

@@wortheffort thanks for your answer, I understand now this is not related to the Janka Hardness

[@sharonbrown3666]

Can't you wet tge wood to "raise" the bruising?? And then sand off??

[@wortheffort]

I’ve found you’ll still get lines. Cell structure has been changed.

[@skipjames8437]

Hey Bro, you forgot to mention dust collection to keep your paper clean.

[@gtg-inspections]

How about a light wipe down with a damp but not wet cloth to raise the grain You would have to let the wood rest and dry before working it again

[@wortheffort]

Grain is still brocken, only now raised. But that or steam is a trick I've used in past.

[@maciejtrybilo]

This isn't fixed with the damp cloth and an iron trick?

[@wortheffort]

No, cells still damaged. I use that trick bore spot damage as color diff looks natural. Straight lines are obvious.

[@ethicalaxe]

AKA burnishing? Creates a nice surface. Spoon carvers who only use edged tools like to burnish. Many burnish tool handles too. I'd imagine burnishing could be easy with turning but not so much when you're doing fine wood working like the big board you planed.

[@wortheffort]

Burnishing is different.

[@ethicalaxe]

@wortheffort Any explanation how it's different? Feel like I burnish with a very small surface sometimes. I burnish with wood shavings sometimes also. Can burnish with many things. You have a lot more woodworking experience than me so I'm interested to hear your thoughts. Just figure burnishing is "bruising" the entire surface.

[@MelkeinMaalla]

Hmmm, the comments about burnishing made me reflect a bit more. I think I understand what the comments are about, as when I "burnish" I do press the surface to make it shiny. Thanks to the video I now know that is _not_ how it should be done, but many people do it, including me. So perhaps burnishing means you are supposed to gently fill in the surface grain with dust from shavings, but I haven't succeeded in that, but when I press during sanding the fibers indeed are bruised and this makes the surface shiny. And indeed, after applying oil, the results vary... I sprinkle alcohol diluted with water on the surface, the bruised fibers pop up, and sand lightly again, and it looks great. So, apparently I have bruised the wood when turning and the only way to tackle it is to bruise more when finishing. 😂😅 Part of the solution would be sharpen my chisels more often and assess the wood stock I use. Some woods, like European hazelnut, have layers that are dense, but separate easily from the next layer (growth ring). With those I tend to bruise the wood but after applying the finish the growth rings separate and that looks disastrous. That does not happen with birch or apple tree. (That's a pity as I have endless supply of European hazelwood in my back yard...) So, there is a fine line between planing cut and bruising, and that has to do how much force is used. Force leads to bruising and does not compensate shortcomings of the cutting technique or the material that is not suitable for the project. Thanks for the invaluable lesson, Shawn!

[@Apillicus]

The chalkboard at 1:50. Anyone else seeing a face? Regardless, thanks for the info!

[@loucinci3922]

Hate when that happens. Glide the bevel...