Five Turning Tools You Don't Need and Why

[@dennislestanguet9581]

Yea Dad's will be Dads...apperceive him as long as you can. I lost mine a few years ago he was a machinist and knew his way around a lathe. Then I taught myself during covid how to turn wood thanks to you and utube. He passed away at 94 and I still wish every day that I could call him for advice. I'll listen to your Dad anytime.

[@johnnyb95678]

Great video. I really appreciate that you put your opinions out there and give us something to think about. Even if I disagree, still enjoy watching and always seem to have something I learn along the way. You really seem to believe in your motto, learn, create, and share. Thank you!

[@lets-allplay]

Haha - I had to start laughing when your father walked on screen. Enjoy the interactions between you two with your differentiating view points. Someday I'll get myself a lathe but until then I'll just keep watching and learning. Thank you for sharing your knowledge

[@pettere8429]

You can do some small turning on a corded drill clamped to a sturdy bench.

[@lets-allplay]

@@pettere8429 Can that really work? I never thought about trying that, I will totally start looking into such. Thank you for sharing the idea.

[@pettere8429]

@@lets-allplay I use a center punch in a block of wood as a dead center and a Torx40 bit as a drive center. So yes.

[@lets-allplay]

@@pettere8429 That is a great idea - I think I am going to try to work around with that idea and see what I acn get to work. What are your thoughts on the cheaper harbor freight lathe? Would something like that be worth buying or wait until a quality one can be afforded ?

[@peterbucy1846]

I started woodturning about a year ago. I admit that I bought quite a few tools, mostly because I saw them being used in KZbin videos and figured that I needed them too. When the dust settled, and I became much more skilled on the lathe, I realized that I could easily get by with a lot fewer tools than I had purchased. I didn't have any 'gadget' tools, but I discovered that a lot of different tools were capable of doing the same thing that other tools can do. Skew chisels are amazingly versatile. A Bedan and 3/8" a parting tool can do pretty much the same thing too. I could probably do most things work with a bowl gouge that I can do with a spindle gouge. I guess that is just part of the learning process. When watching Richard Raffan's videos, I was pleasantly surprised to see that he uses very few tools, and there is no doubt that Richard knows how to turn just about anything. Woodturning is a hobby, at least for most of us, and hobbyists tend to go a bit overboard at times. Don't get me started on vacuum chucks and multiple lathes. For the record, I have two thin parting tools. The one that Carter and Son makes is my favorite. It's a beast of a parting tool.

[@changefortanzania]

I agree that Carter and sons make Some of the best woodturning tools available including their party tool. I meant parting tool, Though I think I have a party. Every time I turn with a fellow wood turner!!

[@clarencegreen3071]

Peter, I would like to get you started on vacuum chucks. Did you have a bad experience? I will admit that most youtubers make them overly complicated and also that there are other ways to accomplish what a vacuum chuck will do. However, they can be quite convenient after you become accustomed to using one.

[@peterbucy1846]

@@clarencegreen3071 I did not have a bad experience with vacuum chucks. I use a vacuum chuck frequently and don't know now I got by without one. The only problems that I have had were with a few very thin bowls, under 1/16" where the vacuum chuck cracked the bottom of the bowl. With spalted timber, which leaks like a sieve, I just block the leaks with masking tape.

[@raisinsawdust]

If you use the thin parting tool correctly, it will be a friend that helps you look like a magician when doing lidded boxes

[@radiationroom]

Father and son dynamic. I feel your pain. My dad told my boss who was his sub at the time that I was not allowed to use a table saw because my dad was concerned that I would cut my fingers off. I was 42 at the time….

[@ugaladh]

I think my realization moment was my son's first move (over several states) after college. I was to show up to help load the U-haul truck and, in my mind, organize that loading. When I got there, he was done loading without me. I said, "Oh, I guess you are 30 years old now, I need to get used to that."

[@MartyRaaymakers]

Hey thanks. I enjoyed learning as I am starting to pick up some tools

[@justinfletcher7630]

Well at least he loves you. My dad was like here's some power tool........you'll figure it out...one way or another

[@patrickd1791]

I made my own thin kerf parting tool out of an old carbide tipped circular saw blade and it works great. The carbide tips are slightly wider than the steel behind it so it works perfectly.

[@dexhorton59]

I use that narrow parting tool often. It is the perfect tool for the job I do. I want a kerf in the item that is just that size, and this is the perfect tool to make that. When I saw one cheap at an estate sale, I bought a second one as a back up. When it is sharp, and the speed is high, there is no wobble.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Love the humor as you and your Dad show that one person's trash is another person's treasurer. Clearly one size does not fit all. I would agree that a thin parting tool would not be suitable as your primary parting tool. I started with a 1/4" HF parting tool and it worked fine. But as I watched more and more demonstrators who traveled with a limited tool set most used a 1/8" PT. I made one from a bar of HSS and it is now my go to parting tool. But I still like my thin "tenoning" tool from Penn State which is about like your Sorby but a lot cheaper and still HSS for a lot of parting tasks on small projects. The less steel on the wood, the less friction. But I would hate using it if it had the grind you showed as opposed to how all of them come from the manufacturer, or with a bit of the tip cut back.

[@Chuck_Burke]

I was initially skeptical about your video...but it turned out to be pretty entertaining....I love the part where you Dad walked in LOL...Thank you for your time

[@bobh64]

Always great to see your dad putting his two cents in on your videos.

[@eugenemorganakakeek8941]

I agree with your dad. let him make the videos. You never say what the jig is for. You never say what kind of tool rest you use. This is more of a show then a lesson.

[@kevingoza]

Great video! I agree with you both. Love your father-son dynamic. Good to see woodturning moving through generations.

[@brucecraig4954]

Dad’s and son’s. Good for both of you. Thanks for your tips. Some are awesome all are food for thought at some level. Partially as I started watching you many years ago your responsible for what now is a daily occurrence. I try to turn something everyday. I have an endless supply of free wood. And I mean endless over 2 million pounds in my mill building. Crazy what this has started about a decade ago.

[@archi-dr5te]

Great to hear valuable comments from your father - thanks for the content.

[@davidhambleton234]

I love when your dad walked in and called you an idiot! I agreed with him on the Stuart batty gauge, it’s very easy to figure out. However I agreed with both of you on determining wall thickness. It’s nice to have a tool for backup or verification but getting used to using your fingers is key. Plus as turning get larger or deeper your fingers no longer reach. Thanks for more good content, I know you’re not really an idiot😂

[@Erik_The_Viking]

I love these videos you've been putting together. Great to see what tools to buy and what not to buy.

[@gregdownunderinOz]

Thanks Sean, love your work and teaching style. Keep videos coming. Really enjoy your approach to batching out small products for sale. I have used these numerous times and referred others to your site as well. Thanks very much for sharing. Produce more videos. Oh ps your fathers great too, love the cameos and his style as well

[@michaelbantam]

A lot of comments on the parting tool. I think the tool rest switch was the most useful. Steel on iron has a tendency to stick stopping or slowing the tool. I didn't really notice this until i used a steel rest. I also didn't really know why until i watched your video.

[@patcummins6036]

You have a great interaction with your Dad. I don’t think I would be his favourite self taught woodworker as I saw a person using a lathe once and thought “ How interesting!” So I constructed one on my home made table saw from my mother-in-laws bed! I was explaining how I made it to friend and he wanted to know what my mother-in-law was doing with a 20 year old electric drill in her bed It wasn’t an absolute disaster but it will do till I find one! My first project was a walking stick made from Australia hardwood and making that sharpened my evasive skills no end! I needed the 4WD to pull the chisel outta the mancave door! I’m going to make a wooden bowl next! I think!

[@justinsane332]

all a sudden worth the effort starts putting out so many vids! shawn, been missing these types of woodworking videos from you. are we ever getting another 101 tips vids?

[@wortheffort]

I have not know so many 10 second tips.

[@loucinci3922]

Forgot to lock the door….in your dads shop! LOL good video. laughing most of the way thru it. Agree. Thanks for sharing

[@Nistacular]

I love the thin kerf parting tool - really wanted one to conserve wood, and at first I had the same issues you mentioned. A couple tips to avoid: put the lathe on a slow speed, and cut fast. Since it's so thin, it's way easier to cut quickly, which avoids the binding problems.

[@DD-vk5nd]

Great pitch. You soon learn the importance of a tool AFTER you buy it. I succumbed to that Batty angle thing and I think I know which drawer it's in ...

[@AlienLeader4]

Really have enjoyed this series of videos. Dad popping in was hilarious. Keepnup the awesome work. 👽

[@maximeb190]

Hahaha!! Great to see the Dad vs Son skit. Thanks for the video!

[@JamesCouch777]

Good tips. If I need a tool or jig I just make one. It's insane how much money you can spend on woodworking stuff. Now I'm going to have to make one of those narrow parting tools to see if I hate it as much as you do 😊

[@ralphrohr]

I was about to get one of those small "knives" for parting. Thx for the advice. And your work in general. Always a pleasure watching you (and your dad)!!!

[@gileslaney5263]

Lol, "sorry about that I forgot to lock the door" that was funny, thanks for the video it was helpful and fun

[@robinbarnes399]

I needed a thin kerf parting tool, I made mine from a chefs knife. It took a little while to get the angles just right and grind off the sharp edge. Used it for over a year and never had a problem with it.

[@garyglendenning1695]

Good stuff. Thanks. We all have tools we wish we hadn't bought. No two people will agree on which ones...

[@DanielWilliams-vo7ni]

Termite is for endgrain only ! I never had the money to buy a thin parting tool, but what you said is good to know! Thank you.

[@wortheffort]

He used it for hollowing so end grain.

[@terrysimmons7676]

I made my own parting tool with an old saw blade that had carbide teeth. Cut a strip from the center to a single tooth and attached a handle. The tooth is wider than the metal so it keeps it from binding

[@trurex007lee7]

Thank you Shaun, you easily explained my pain with using my similar thin parting tool, it’s not me(this time) it’s the tool.

[@craftsmanwoodturner]

No, it is the way you are using it. Try making some clearance room with two overlapping cuts, reducing diameter in steps. The tool will cut perfectly well, with none of the issues described. It's worked fine for me for over 25 years.

[@trurex007lee7]

@@craftsmanwoodturner thank you Richard. Having sufficient clearance and taking the extra time are always good reminders.

[@wortheffort]

I actually talked about that in the video.

[@jimgott119]

Diamond section parting tools will also bind in a cut if you don’t make relief cuts on the way to widen the kerf. Narrow parting tools take less wood away if you’re trying to match grain between top and bottom of an end grain box. They definitely have a purpose depending on what you make.

[@conflictfree88]

Amen to tool rest replacement! The tool rest that came with my Craftex lasted all of two weeks before a catch on my first bowl broke the shaft right through.

[@PotgieterWoodturning]

Again, great video. As a Turner, I agree with a lot and besides having a very, and I mean a very limited budget when it comes to tool, I have started to prefer the basics. As a matter of fact, I have only 4 Tools thats a must when I turn, Bowl, Spindle, Parting tool and my most Favourite especially on Spindle Turnings, The Skew. Also, I really like the videos where your dad makes guest appearances, It is so great to see and makes me think of the type of relationship I had with my Late Father. Try and make more of those Shawn as it is something to treasure one day.

[@garykidson]

Love the Dad interaction. Half my tools and most of my skills come from mine 😂

[@archiehebron8944]

I'm going to try Thompson lathe tools. I know I can make handles, thanks to you😎👍

[@pathardage1880]

Good show. Thank you. You've saved me some money.

[@michaelhayes1678]

Loved the video, and your fancy spindle roughing gouge handle is aging beautifully.

[@naturaIIydifferent]

I use a butter knife for a thin parting tool. It was free, and works great for parting stuff up to about 3" in diameter. I really like it for continuous grain boxes because you don't lose very much of the grain pattern.

[@DanielWilliams-vo7ni]

I agree with you on those tools, I made a thin parting tool from a edger tool, it doesn't work! & I never use It. The tribite I like for green endgrain

[@charlesyonk4315]

Yup. I agree 100%. You guys are great. Thanks for the.videos

[@gcbound]

Great video! I think you could take that angle thing and put a couple screws through it to attach it to the top edge of your workbench. Would hold the right tapered coffee cup solid as all get out!

[@robinyoutube7862]

I ground a different shape into my tool rest, mainly cos there was an enormous dent from the previous owner and I couldn‘t maintain the curved shape, so just went flat and straight as best as I could!

[@colind2955]

Ha ha that was “worth the effort” and informative. Good to have comedy . Maybe get your dad to show you how to use the angle finder. Agree with the finger thickness test. Loved it.

[@jydymyyyr9630]

Totally agree with the tool rest 3:53 problem. The rest that came with my Oneway 1224 has been a problem since day #1. I've sanded it smooth many times, but it seems to get dents in it very quickly, and the tools never seem to slide very smoothly on it. I'm in the market for a replacement; if you or one of your viewers has a good replacement option for this lathe I'd like to hear it. Thanks for the gr8 videos!

[@PStJohn-he2mi]

Robust makes great tool rests that fit Jet lathes. Before I figured that out, I took the original tool rest that came with my Jet and used epoxy to add a 3/8" round piece of hardened steel rod that I bought at the hardware store. Glued it to the rest and ran a bead down each side. Performs just like the Robust. I know several turners that have done the same. No one has had the rod come loose after several years of use.

[@jydymyyyr9630]

@@PStJohn-he2mi I like the inexpensive fix, but I'm a little worried it might come loose and become a projectile. I'll do some investigating into a Robust rest. Thanks for the info.

[@clarencegreen3071]

Some tools, like scrapers, have a rectangular cross section whose corners can be rather sharp. You can save wear and tear on your tool rest by rounding those corners with sandpaper or a quick swipe across a grinder.

[@lanbrady2310]

Video is fantastic, I enjoyed watching.

[@bowlreveal]

Found it very interesting, have some of those tools, I got them for free at a local tool sale. The guy thru them in. You’re Right! I also turn like a brute. Get er done!

[@davyaldy76]

I am the health and safety officer at a Men's Shed in Perth Western Australia and until today I have never seen one of those safety drives you showed, it looks more like some live centres we have. We do use the narrow parting tools but we have the point off centre and you do need to cut a wider section, even by just a little bit. Have you considered waxing the sides? That first tool your Dad showed reminded me of my parting tool until I saw the profile.

[@NolanTyrrell]

I have used a putty knife for thin parting for years. About 1mm in thickness. Never bought a specialised tool for it. I do make my own tools when I can. Even gouges at times. Though I agree that dents in the tool rest are a problem at times I've not had a problem with binding.

[@brettgl21]

You should check out D-Ways parting tool. It's narrower at the top than at the bottom. It's the only parting tool I own.

[@jmrivera83]

Great video. Love the cameo from your dad!

[@Tiger2000Lion2005]

Super helpful as a new owner of robust american beauty..overkill but its awesome.

[@roystewart4826]

Dads are dads and will always know better than their sons great to have him around even if you sometimes have to lock the door 🤣👍

[@greggmiller6623]

Maybe the reason you get binding with the narrow parting tool is that you're not making as second relief cut to slightly widen the parting cut. There are also times you might need it to conserve wood during the cut. I agree with you on replacing lighter weight toolrests, and I've added Robust toolrests in several sizes (4", 6", 9") depending on the length of stock for my projects. I always match the toolrest with the stock I'm using. I do disagree with you regarding Stuart Batty's angle gauges. They're currently $40 each or the 3-pc. set for $69.90. They work really well dialing in angles on the grinder. It's not difficult to see the two reference points against the wheel when the grinder tool rest is gently moved to match. Much better than trying to use a protractor.

[@norm5785]

Thank you for sharing. Dad is awesome. Everyone stay cool, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia

[@dutchbeef8920]

Thanks, very honest video its appreciated

[@douglasperry1226]

I agree with you on all subjects discussed in this episode. Research is key before purchasing any of my turning tools. Most of the time I make my own special tools. Thumbs up on thickness gauge your fingers are just as accurate as a expensive one! Sorry Pops but your son is right!

[@imanutnur7]

I have a narrow parting tool and love it. You may need to learn how to use it.

[@wortheffort]

So you're saying you actually listened to the explanation on how to use it and concluded I was wrong? What's your technique and don't tell me on deep cuts to take multiple passes so you only use a portion of edge to take a bigger kerf because that's what I explained.

[@raymondbunkofske4702]

I fasten a piece of drill rod to the top of my tool rests, it’s very hard so it stays smooth even when using tools on edge

[@cormacoriordankg]

Your advice to upgrade the iron tool rest might have been more helpful if you had mentioned what we could replace it with.

[@rodneymiller5141]

Great video Shawn. But, I do have to disagree with you on a couple of tools on your list. First of all, the slim parting tool is a wonderful item. When making boxes, you can match the grain of the body and the lid much better with a thin parting tool. You are just removing less material from the box. A thin parting tool is also essential in making a honey dipper. I would like to see one made with a thicker parting tool. It would just not look right. The next tool on your list I disagree with is the so-called safety drive. There are several versions of this drive and they are mainly designed for production spindle turning. They allow you to mount and remove your spindle from the lathe while it is running. These types of drives have a spring point center pin which allows you to loosen the tail stock just a little and the spindle will stop spinning. You can also mount a spindle the same way. As long as you do not engage the drive, your spindle will not spin. Once you have the spindle aligned, just tighten the tail stock to engage the spinning part of the drive center. Much quicker and completely safe.

[@wortheffort]

I use a flush cut saw on boxes and skew on honey dippers. V-cuts are easier to clean.

[@rodneymiller5141]

@@wortheffort I forgot to mention that I use a flush-cut saw after the thin parting tool.

[@thedevilinthecircuit1414]

I make my own parting tools from old carbide circ saw blades. Use a ZipCut wheel to cut a center stripe out of the circ saw blade and fit it into a handle. Touch up the carbide with a diamond stone and you're off to the races. The carbide tip is wider than the steel so there's no friction on the sides of the tool in use. Easy peasy.

[@J.A.Smith2397]

You taught me all I know of turning

[@MelkeinMaalla]

Same here...

[@jimscheltens2647]

These tool videos have been great.

[@billc.6381]

Buy the best 5/8 bowl gouge you can. It is the work horse of turning tools and you can do almost an entire bowl with just it.

[@MASI_forging]

Nicely done 👍👍

[@robertanderson259]

Well said my friend…although you do know how to rattle some people’s cages!

[@AffordBindEquipment]

parting tools need to be hollow ground so there is side clearance. Grinding angles: I have 2 removable platforms that I put on the grinder rest that are different angles so I don't need to change the grinder rest angle. 2 seconds to change to another angle. I have found the spur doesn't provide enough grip for ape turning bowls. I have spun it many times from a catch and don't use it anymore.

[@rhysbailey2070]

Instructional and funny .. best wishes

[@mootnmike]

Great video. Thanks

[@michaelogden5958]

Cynicism and sarcasm. Vastly underused linguistic tools. Love it! 😄 Speaking for myself, I have purchased a number of "latest greatest" tools over the years. If I am honest with myself, I've simply looked for shortcuts rather than practicing and learning better techniques with the usual suspects - looking at you, Evil Skew. Cheers, y'all!

[@TheMessyStudio]

I'm still laughing! While I agree with many of the things y'all mentioned, I agree with Pat on the Stuart Batty gauge. I use mine regularly. Thanks for another great vid, Shawn!

[@MortimerSugarloaf]

I love when your dad makes cameos. Hi, Shawn's dad!

[@brucecraig4954]

Correct on the thin parting tool

[@pb-bx1ll]

Great video thank you

[@MrJpocreva]

I disagree with the narrow parting tool assessment. I would like to know what you prefer as a parting tool?

[@wortheffort]

Regular parting tool. Diamond.

[@MrJpocreva]

Thanks for the reply.@@wortheffort

[@radwansoueidan6390]

Narrow parting tool is essential if you are making grain matched boxes, especially if you are doing a production run…. Takes Too much time to cut it off with a saw or clamping up for bandsaw. Stainless steel tool rest is a must and some rough sandpaper on the bottom edge of the parting tool and it works perfectly. And any pinching is bad technique on the part of the user, or the turner trying to part off something larger than the tool is meant for

[@peterlenhart]

Thak you very much for this video.

[@robertfowler348]

Everyone I know have made their narrow parting tools from old table knives. all you need is a grinder. You only use this when you have 1/2" or less or less for the final parting.

[@BeeSharp]

Which toolrest do you use on your JET? I'm a novice and in fact use the stock rest.

[@victorylatheworks873]

there are some older videos where he mentions Robust tool rests, so I got one and its all I use. Not sure if he still uses that kind though

[@radiationroom]

I hate the cast iron stock rests that came with my Jet 1221. I too turn like an ape and have to file my tool rests down every so often. Time to replace them.

[@wortheffort]

Robust

[@slowfootlabeef704]

Loved the video!

[@brenchuckswood3826]

Agree with your findings. Chuck

[@jayscott306]

Whew, some great points. My favourite parting tool was a metal lathe blade. The top had a flute. I mounted and ground it upside down for wood turning. It's great, not that I removed the two sharp edge of that flute destroyed the iron rest of an old lathe. I redressed it for the new owner and the new stainless top of the new rest is free of dings after a year and 750 hours on it (100 might be on the 11" OneWay rest). That said, I'm about to inherit a typical diamond parting tool with a longer handle. It might become the new default. Safety drives suck. Git Gud and learn your technique. Angle finder! I couldn't find a suitable choice I liked so I printed a profile of eight of the aforementioned jig , cut them out and glued them together. Works so well! Step by step: Choose your angle, position jig so the angle numbers are upright, place flat edges against wheel and angle your rest to meet the flat edge. The flat edge below the printed number of your chosen angle is what you're looking for. Still using fingers, but I've eyed up calipers. My sensory deficit might mean a tool is the right call. Never understood when I saw prominent KZbinrs using a point tool. At first I thought I was missing something. But, I do want to try a texturizing tool. I like embellishing and haven't found the right chatter with reciprocating saw blades or other similar things.

[@jaytemplin9364]

I’ve never used my super skinny parting tool on a powered lathe; I do almost almost all of my turning on a springpole lathe. That parting tool is dynamite on green wood!

[@davidhawley1132]

The pointy tool looks pretty similar to the common diamond carbide insert, which I'm finding very useful, particularly the radiused one.

[@clarencegreen3071]

Richard Raffan calls it a spear point scraper and he uses his frequently.

[@monteglover4133]

For beginners I’d recommend carbide tools. They have served me well sharpening is harder than turning.

[@wortheffort]

sharpening is the same difficulty as turning. same hand motions. don't believe the marketing messaging from carbide retailers.

[@robertshirk3479]

I would like to hear your comments about large lathes. I have an ancient lathe. 3 hp motor, 8 foot bed, 24 inch swing, 4 speeds, weighs about 1,000 pounds. I’d like to get a modern lathe. Maybe a Robust or Oneway or Powermatic.

[@wortheffort]

They are a luxury for most. A necessity for professionals. I've worn out mini's and midi's but the Oneway is infinitely rebuildable and will outlast me. Dad's Robust is barely broken in after 10 years.

[@hamptonwoodturnings]

I love my thin parting tool. I use it all the time when making boxes and ornaments. And I'm sorry to say your Dad is way off when it comes to using texturing tools. They're great for adding special details to pieces. Like everything else in woodturning, it takes practice.

[@MelkeinMaalla]

Agree on both tools, and I do similar delicate projects. Its different if making huge bowls and such.

[@jamescarter8813]

I agree those thick steel thin parting tools have never shown any appeal to me. It is really sad the Jet hasn't upgraded their stock tool rest. I got rid of the one i had on my first lathe as soon as I could afford something better. I use, and teach how to sharpen with the SB angle gauges. Like any tool you need to learn how to use them, but once you do they are really great for getting repeatable results. I prefer a steb style center as it gives a good drive grip but will give if things go bad.

[@robohippy]

For the thin parting tools, I use one all the time, and prefer it to my 1/8 inch wide parting tool. I get a 3/32 kerf with the thin tool, and almost a 5/32 kerf with the 1/8 inch tool. The spear point took is excellent for shear scraping the outsides of bowls. I have been using the wire gage for my bowls for 30 years and considering it costs pennies rather than the $60 to $80 that the other tool does, it is far better. Yours is the wrong shape. Correct way to make it is to bend it into a D shape, and then make your cut/gap about 1 inch in on the bottom side. This way it works on bowls and hollow forms. I generally set mine to about 1/8 to 1/4 wider than I want the wall thickness of my bowls. If it starts to rub, you have gone too far, so stop before you get there. This was a David Ellsworth invention. For Stuart's platform, I don't like it at all. I would have to have several sets of the angle setters because I know they would get lost in the shop shavings. I made my own for a while, the robo rest. Pre set angles and exactly repeatable every time. Oneway is probably the worst one, and most will cut a notch 1 3/4 inch wide for the CBN wheels to fit into. Now, some one is making "right angle" platforms. I got some just to see how they work. Pretty good, and no jigs required to set angles. You can make your own jigs. I did take a 3 day workshop with Stuart and his dad Allen many years ago, and that started me on platform sharpening. Far faster than setting up jigs. I use the 40/40 and several different BOB (bottom of bowl) gouges, and haven't used a swept back gouge in over 10 years. I also do all of my roughing with scrapers. Far more efficient than gouges. You should have seen Stuart when he saw me roughing some bowls with my Big Ugly tool!

[@MelkeinMaalla]

Too funny, you started with my favorite cutting tool, the Sorby thin parting tool, I love love love it, but mine looks different; the corner that cuts is not close to the middle of the blade but very close to the bottom. So it is meant to cut close to the bottom and the rest above it gives it stability (no vibration in the blade). It cuts like a butter and does not catch, because it cuts. So, I believe you should sharpen it differently (mine is the original shape) and have a fresh look at it. I think that shape loses all its clever "engineering". With that knive I have had very little use for the basic parting tool. I use it to make very deep cuts like roughing a log and then cutting a dozen half inch slices out of it. The first inch with the standard cutting tool, the switch to the slim to continue the same width but splitting the cut into two cuts side by side and my knife won't get stuck or cause burn marks deep close to the cutting point. It is also very useful with miniature scale projects, like beads, drop spindles, buttons and such. The knife works great when you cut through 90 degrees angle, when you have limited options to make a planing cut that you more or less need with the skew. Yes my tool rest is a bit dented, but not because of the slim shady, because all the catches I got with my skew. And I dont mind, I will sand it smooth if it starts to bother. And based on your suggestions, I will buy a steel one, having a cast iron one for roughing is fine. The slim knife makes it easy to tweak the remaining fibers againts the pointed live center tail stock, making a neat new position for the live center, like a finished indent. If the next step is to bore a hole, you have a start for it to align true. I believe the catching issues may have to do with the shape of the blade. Its efficient (fast) . Regarding the engineering, the further the cutting point is from the tool rest, the more vibration and counter fources, and the corner in that higher position it is further away from the tol rest both forwards and upwards. (I don't think you are an idiot though... without your videos I would understand there things so that I could analyze all this I hypothetized above. Or even bought a lathe and started. You are a great teacher. Your strong opinions actually gives a confident space for us beginners as we can see that circumstances, skills, wood and projects depend on one's tool choices, and its okay, as long as you take time to explore and understand. This video brought a smile, you guys are morphing from teaching to improvised comedy acting.)

[@dougfreeman3229]

Enjoy the Dad parts, good interaction and sometimes information. Thin Parting Tool - its tool not gouge. Any parting tool requires relief cuts to the side to prevent burning. Your tool is sharpened wrong. Bring the point way down to a 1/4" above the edge of the tool. This helps stabilize the tool when cutting. Cast Iron Tool Rest - agree, they're crap Safety Drive - Agree. I use a stebcenter. No sense buying a safety drive then time to notch the circle - a stebcenter is already done. S. Batty Angle Finder - Agree. I make my own out of 0.080" thick clear plastic with a long distance between contact points. Thickness calipers - Your Dad is right, fingers DON'T WORK. Not a fan of the diy wire either. I guess one with a gauge is cool (and expensive). I have several different sizes/lengths that pivot only, and show thickness at the opposite end, work quite well.

[@radiationroom]

Where were you when I was in carpentry school? You are the smartest person in the room!

[@thomashverring9484]

Oh my god, I laughed so much at you two! Awesome :^)

[@frankstoverpurebloodsaltya6441]

Your dad's hilarious!! Great episode!!!

[@tomjudkins3799]

Your dad is great!

[@blacknorce]

Dude your dad is great! Make him Do his own Chanel. I would love to watch him build and teach.

[@wortheffort]

Unknown turner

[@keithpkmn5170]

As a beginner i love your videos, is it just me or were you 1/2 way through a bottle of JD for this video? hahahah

[@wortheffort]

Don't be rude.