X-LS Speaker Cabinet Wood Veneering

This turned into an epic project. Meaning long...really long. And this is the short version! I'll rethink how I produce these quasi-tutorials in the future. I apologize for the microphone gaffs. I don't pretend to know it all about when it comes to shooting video, but I rarely make the same mistake twice, if that's any comfort.
My aim is to get y'all enough info so you could do this yourself, so I think intent was good, but perhaps not the delivery method. Think of it like a Netflix binge or movie!
If you're a real glutton for this and more, I'm including a Google Drive link to the original (2.5 hour!) version that you can download and watch me slog through even more detail and muttering.
If you're interested in building the cabinets I cut, contact me: [e-mail]
Veneer Supplies: www.veneersupp...
Heat Lock Glue: www.veneersupp...
Glue Roller : www.veneersupp...
Nicholson Handy File: www.crescentto...
Nicholson File Card: www.crescentto...
Whiteside 1/2" round over cutter: www.whitesider...
Whiteside 1/4" Downcut Spiral Trimmer: www.whitesider...
Amana Flush Trimmer: www.amanatool....
Even more epic download link: drive.google.c...

[@ChandlerLofton]

Two things I learned after using this process on my 1TDX cabinets. His attention to getting an even layer of glue is important! I have lumpy rosewood veneer to prove it! The other thing is to pay attention to your heat when applying to a very oily wood. Keep the iron moving! It will bring up oils in rosewood and leave an impression of the iron if you stop in one spot! I can’t thank this channel enough for this video though. I would have been lost without it. These are just a couple things I learned while doing this. My speakers still look amazing by the way. Even with a couple whoops on my part.

[@carbidetooth]

That's cool...thanks! If I had a wish for this channel, it would be that folks watching learn a thing or two. I've got a pair of those on the way and will be doing a video series on assembly and finishing.

[@ChandlerLofton]

@ That will be awesome! I’m about to start on my third build. I’m doing the 2TDX towers this time! Thanks for all the help this content gave me.

[@gpye2000]

Thank you immensely for the incredibly informative video. Having no previous experience applying veneer, I was apprehensive about how my X-LS Encore project would turn out. After viewing your video multiple times, I successfully completed the veneering. I'm thrilled to report that the bubinga veneer finish turned out beyond my expectations, and I couldn't be prouder of the craftsmanship I achieved. Your clear explanations and demonstrations were instrumental in achieving such a fantastic result. Once again, thank you.

[@carbidetooth]

I'm glad you found it helpful. It's rewarding for me to hear other's success stories.

[@1963mdg]

I thought I would had lost interest watching the video because of you saying it’s long, but I found your knowledge and skill to be very valuable. Thanks for a great video.

[@mikedugger8309]

The length of this video is appropriate for matter at hand. I won't sweat a couple of glitches and you shouldn't either. Anyway, thanks for this as it spurred me to use oak laminate on my xls encores. I'm delighted with the result and kind of proud of myself for doing it. Currently I'm in the process of giving them a few coats of BLO (with Japan drier) and so far I'm loving how they're coming along. Really showcases the grain.

[@nemstanisic3605]

Thank you for an extensive and detailed tutorial. I love the attention to detail and how you pay attention to the small stuff. I have learned a lot from you.

[@carbidetooth]

Thanks!

[@chefbink61]

I want to thank you for introducing me to Heat lock. I love that stuff. I even use it on 3D prints and it works great!! Thanks!!

[@MyLostInLifeAdventure]

Thank you Peter! This video answered so my questions. 90% of my fears have been eliminated with this video. I am now very excited to attempt this project.

[@chriskellas2902]

Before I was just figuring on painting my cabs now I'm going to go for it... they look great!

[@mojoneko8303]

Third time I've watched this. Getting ready to build a pair of the CSS Criton 2TD-X tower speakers and plan to use this method to finish them. Thanks for the video! : )

[@kerrydolan8050]

Well done! I feel I can do this with confidence. Great instructor.

[@Yooyangs]

Excellent job!! Very calm and you brought some detail into why you were doing things the way you were doing it.

[@orcasea59]

Followed the series religiously! One tip: really let that glue dry before you fit the veneer or it WILL grab and moving it (if you have to) can be a messy trick. Do you 'pre-iron' straight grained wood veneers? Veneer Supply recommends that to keep wood from potentially splitting...? Also, do you wait the full three hours for glue to reach full strength before trimming with a router? Thanks so much for this series!

[@carbidetooth]

I've never experienced what you're describing with Heatlock glue, having always waited till the color is completely changed. Might you be thinking of contact adhesive? I suspect Veneer Supplies is referencing raw veneer with the ironing mentioned. Paper backed veneer is typically much flatter and more forgiving. For routing, I wait until the surface is cool to the touch and glue no longer "plastic". Final sanding would come later in my scheme of things.

[@orcasea59]

@@carbidetooth Yeah, I was surprised. Even after I allowed the second set of skins to dry completely tack free when I pressed down to make sure I had proper trim margin all around it still wanted to grab, though not as aggressively and I was able to pull it off. Maybe it's a humidity thing as I am in the PNW...?

[@wiebl5266]

You are a true master in your work! I hope to get a speaker to you from Danny. I have an xls encore, bought 2 years back. It's a keeper! Really beautiful... keep doing it!

[@williamrepp9232]

Really enjoyed the video. I'm thinking of building some speakers and this has helped sway me in that direction. Those are beautiful and you really do a great job of walking us through the process. You are an incredibly good teacher. Thank you for all your work.

[@emersonperin4109]

Excellent video! Thank you! Because of your detailed instructions I was able to assemble AND veneer the xls's with maple veneer. I followed step-by-step. They look fantastic and the process worked as explained. This is the first time I ever veneered anything, or did any woodworking for that matter. I did watch the video 3 times!! BTW, I cut a veneer gasket for the tweeter offset and it worked great. Keep up these wonderful instructive videos.

[@carbidetooth]

Thanks for sharing your experience, Emerson. It makes my day to know that I contributed to your success. If you're of a mind, the good folks on Audio Circle would enjoy seeing your finished speakers and also any listening impressions you'd like to offer.

[@satanertau2689]

Great Job! Slow and steady enough to watch in 2x.

[@hosainrashed8129]

Great craftsmanship. I'm blown away.

[@MrPatrickRey]

Peter, I just finished putting on some Birch Burl and the cabinets are gorgeous. I can't thank you enough for these videos, Sooooo helpful!

[@mahad4816]

Really appreciate the details covered in the video, particularly about pointing out the potential latent pitfalls. Great jobs! Thanks.

[@MotecM]

Thank you for filming your process! Looking forward to building a pair of these speakers from your flat pack MDF kits.

[@carbidetooth]

You're welcome. I've got 'em in stock when you're ready.

[@octanehead]

Really nice tutorial! This feels a lot more doable after watching you do it. Thanks!

[@CrazyEstradaKids]

I really appreciate the time and detail you put in to this video. Yes it was long, however you packed alot of information in to this. Thank you.

[@markyoung7470]

Very well done ! Very informative and thorough this was by far the best video on veneering I have seen!

[@jla.2833]

Great, great job! Thanks so much for sharing!!!

[@DocWongScuba]

Thanks SO much for doing this video, very instructive and complete! I'm sure I can do this now.

[@davidristic3800]

Awesome work, and great instructions. Can't imagine there is a better video for this.

[@tee-jaythestereo-bargainph2120]

Thanks peter ! The XLS looks great !

[@stanrogers5613]

About the "file card": it closely resembles the carding comb (more of a brush, really) that you would use for aligning wool or cotton fibres before spinning. Since that's been with us a lot longer than specialized file-teeth-cleaner-outers, we get to call ours a "file card" rather than homespinners calling their things "file-teeth-cleaner-outers for wool".

[@courtneyswaby3178]

Very good demo video I learnt a lot in anticipation of my pair which is on it's way.

[@graemeguthrie2054]

Brilliant job

[@flashhog01]

Excellent video! Very informative and thorough, ready to tackle this project myself!

[@carbidetooth]

Cool! I sometimes wonder if all the detail I go into makes it seem too complex. I hope your project goes well.

[@danielh12345]

@@carbidetooth The detail to me js what inspired the confidence that I can do this. All the little unknowns add up into doubt, or worse, failure when actually trying and ruining hard work. Thorough, informative and easy to comprehend by the way you present your information. Thank you, I've saved this video for the day I will need it! :)

[@simonrickard6179]

Your explanations of what you're doing are excellent. Just one suggestion: which is to zoom the camera in closer so we can see more detail. Thanks a lot

[@carbidetooth]

Alas, a tripod is my cameraman, so some sort remote zoom may or may not get you a closer view of desired area. I'll think on it. Is there something in particular you had questions about?

[@dang5469]

Great skills. THank-you for posting this enjoyable explanation. Always wondered how speaker cabinets are made!!!

[@The0nionKnight]

I was able to successfully veneer my speakers using the methods in your video. Thank you again for making this tutorial.

[@sambrown6178]

This video is three years old now but I’m hoping you can answer my question. What type of tape do you use when you tape down the veneer before applying glue? Also I enjoyed the video and you answered my questions about using the router. I don’t think it was too long. Thanks

[@carbidetooth]

Yep, Sam, older video but technique is still the same. I typically use blue painter's masking tape. I've used conventional beige masking tape as well. The adhesive on the beige tape is a little more aggressive which can be a benefit if veneer is curled.

[@stephenyoud6125]

super job and very well done and denonstrated

[@rmzidann]

Enjoyed your video! 👍

[@biffnarzilla4649]

It's called a "card" because they were originally made (with longer wires) for dragging across raw wool to straighten the wool fibers - called "carding".

[@__m__e__]

Now I understand the upcharge to have this done

[@particle.garden]

Incredibly helpful video! KZbin at its finest!!

[@VanHohenheim1904]

Great video, didn’t mind it being long, very informative, thanks for making it.

[@stevegross2454]

Awesome video, thanks for the instructions

[@travismurphy3262]

Far and away best video I've seen on this. Been wanting to put together my own speakers but the finishing is the most intimidating part and has been whats stopping me. Your video is giving me confidence to move forward. Is a router 100 percent necessary for this? I know you showed how to do it on the sides of the cabinet without one. But how would you do the binding post holes and driver holes without a router? If the answer is get a router thats fine and i will take your advise. Just a tool that will mostly collect dust because I will not be doing this all that often.

[@carbidetooth]

100% necessary? Perhaps not, but I'm a router junkie, so I would recommend one and the trimming cutters listed in the description. I think it'd be worth hunting down a reasonably priced router. A good percentage of my arsenal was purchased used, so maybe that's a possibility. I find them to be really versatile tools, so maybe you'd find other uses for it. I've seen folks trim those openings with a razor knife, but the results weren't as clean as a router will give in far less time. Binding posts themselves may hide some rough edges, but the critical areas, at least from a cosmetic standpoint, are often the driver rabbets.

[@stephenscharf6293]

Outstanding, Peter. Thank you so much. Very informative.

[@Sunrayman123]

Thanks for sharing your expertise! You are a great teacher! Never knew anything about this technique. I might do a set of speakers now!😊 p.s I might have missed it, but where do I get these veneer sheets?

[@SMWTheBar]

Look amazing- very professional. But it actually makes me wonder how someone would handle veneering it if the top and bottom of the baffle also had a round over. Hmmm... maybe veneer everything before attaching the front baffle? Now I’m gonna have to check out the box plans again.

[@carbidetooth]

Wrapping veneer in 3 adjacent planes is difficult...really difficult. One could frame baffle in hardwood either before veneering and then rout to expose it or , alternately, inlay corners with hardwood after veneer, then rout flush. I show that technique in a build blog here on Audio Circle: www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=100369.20 Making the entire baffle from hardwood is yet another possibility, but comes with its own baggage.

[@SMWTheBar]

Haha- I somehow spaced out the problem of veneering the corner where the two round overs meet. Yeah, that would be fun. And it would likely catch the eye, even if it was perfect. Well, I’ll probably end up just painting anyway. But I’d love to check out some more unique designs. I’ll check out that link

[@phoenixrising4073]

Yes, another thank you comment. And I hope people keep leaving more thank you comments. THANK YOU! Lol

[@asedillo1]

Thanks so much...very informative especially for newbie like me.

[@caseyodonnell6621]

Thanks for this series of vids and the links to the gear/supplies. Very helpful. I don't think they're too long and I appreciate that you threw in little tricks of the trade. It's been years since I did any woodworking in shop class and never anything that I wanted to turn out presentable. These few videos are tilting me towards picking up a pair of these. Do you do flat packs for any of the other kits that he GR offers?

[@carbidetooth]

This is the only flat pack I currently offer, Casey. We'll see what the future holds.

[@billsliger838]

Hello, I just did my first veneer project, jbl 4412 speakers. I use peel and stick it went pretty well but a couple of my edges didn't get covered completely, the veneer was very sticky and I didn't want to chance breaking it. How do I repair this before finishing? Was thinking wood putty. Liked your video

[@carbidetooth]

PSA veneer can be unforgiving. If it's a simple flat face it can be carefully removed with a putty knife or similar. The longer it's on the surface the harder it will be to remove. Alternately, perhaps you could bevel edge and veneer that. I'm not a fan of wood filler in general as it's usually conspicuous when finishing. You might be able to veneer over what you have, but that's hard to judge from here.

[@thoughtstream9591]

A set of cards were used for carding wool (to clean it and align the fibers for spinning). I'm assuming the card part of a file card comes from the fact that they look similar and are also used for cleaning.

[@carbidetooth]

Thanks for that, it makes perfect sense. Word and phrase origin and derivation is yet another area of interest to me. I suppose it helps that I'm the son of an enthusiastic English teacher!

[@jmitchell3]

Great video peter! Would you provide tool list / links and maybe some up close photos in the description?

[@carbidetooth]

Close photos of tools at end of video, I'll post more links in description as well.

[@johnanderson8096]

Thank you very much... I learned a lot... Well presented!!!! Ps In case you read this... I would have bet a million bucks,,, it would be veneer back first, top/bottom second, and then wrap the front/ sides... is there an advantage to doing your sequence?

[@carbidetooth]

I prefer to have the veneer seams on the side rather than top. Both for the way it looks and it's a little less vulnerable to damage should something get spilled or slid across surface. Either way works.

[@lskanon863]

Thank you!

[@hjnorlander7124]

Fantastic inspiring! Can You leave them unfinished? I love that look of it. Thank You very much

[@carbidetooth]

There's no sonic necessity for finishing, although raw wood is somewhat vulnerable to real world stains, fingerprints etc.. I have clear finished only on raw MDF and Baltic Birch, so that's a possibility. Some pix here in my epic thread on Audio Circle. www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=150120.0

[@stevenpotter69]

Great tips and video, thank you very much

[@halrichard1969]

F'ing Clamp City man....wow thats alotta clamps. Give me half of them for free. Please. 😄 Very well done video. I think I would have put the back and both top and bottom veneer on first then wrapped the front and sides around them. That way the seams are on the top and bottom, not on the sides. Thanks for the demo.

[@carbidetooth]

Alas Hal, it's my legacy... Concerning veneering sequence. I do it this way for two reasons. To my eye the top is the most visible surface. Also, should something get spilled or slid across top the seam will be a little less likely to get damaged. Either way will get the job done.

[@halrichard1969]

@@carbidetooth LoL i had exactly the opposite perception to my eye. The side of the speaker is what I view more. I guess it depends on the set-up. Anyway thanks for your input.

[@coddfish]

Great video helped me do my 1st veneer on my speakers

[@chillausmc]

This wasnt an option for me. After watching this video (great video by the way), I may prefer the paper-back vineer over a gloss black.

[@carbidetooth]

FWIW, I look at speakers as furniture that can make pretty noises. A lot of popular furniture now is satin or even matte sheen which really highlights wood grain.

[@greenbeginner3353]

At 22:50 You instruct us to drill pilot holes in the face of the speaker. I assume a these are for the woofer driver? Are these marked someway? I didn’t notice anything stated about their purpose.

[@carbidetooth]

My kits come with pilot holes for woofer mounting screws cut most of, if not all, the way through the baffle. I'm suggesting to confirm this before veneering so they can be easily located from inside the cabinet later.

[@greenbeginner3353]

@@carbidetooth Yours are the kits we order through GR Research or do those come from another woodworker?

[@carbidetooth]

@@greenbeginner3353 The kits on GR Research site are not mine. Email me for info. [e-mail]

[@petarbajai]

this is a very useful video thanks Peter helpt me a lot keep up posting !!

[@KenGlobalView]

Peter where can I buy these cabinets?

[@petarbajai]

@@KenGlobalView I really don't know

[@carbidetooth]

Kenneth, you can email me: [e-mail]

[@sniddem1508]

Thank you for the comprehensive tutorial. I can’t get a hold of the heat lock glue where I live so I am planning on using Titebond II instead. Is the process the same using that glue? Two layers of glue on substrate and veneer (drying in between), and then iron on? Thanks for any help!

[@carbidetooth]

Years ago, I used Titebond 1 to do what you describe. As I recall, I read about it a book on veneering, but I'll bet there's videos right here on KZbin. I use Heat Lock because it's specifically formulated for the task, but I believe it can be done with Titebond successfully.

[@sniddem1508]

Hi again! If there happens to be a small spot along the edge of the veneer where the glue wasn’t very effective - is there any way of repairing it?

[@carbidetooth]

@@sniddem1508 Sorry for late reply. Are the cabinets finished or still raw veneer?

[@ron6706]

You made that look far easier than I'm sure it is.

[@carbidetooth]

I suppose there’s nuance to any process one undertakes that’s only learned through experience. With the tools and techniques I show, my hope is to make it accessible to anyone with the desire. Of course, there may be a clandestine effort to get folks on-board my router obsession…

[@johnsoprych483]

Great info (best viewed at 1.75% faster speed)

[@JS-hu7pv]

Uh....one cannot have too many routers. Impossible. I dare say INCONCEIVABLE!

[@carbidetooth]

I'm with you on that. Although I'm told there are those who don't embrace the concept.

[@sparkeyjones6261]

Hi Peter! I finally got my cabinets completed and finished in a nice bubinga veneer. They're looking quite beautiful. Went to install the crossovers and realized the kit from GR Research only supplied screws for the drivers. Maybe this is a silly question, but what type and size screw do you usually use to mount the crossovers?

[@carbidetooth]

The screws I now send are #8 wood screw, washer head, 3/4" length. Glad you're getting them completed. Email me photos when complete if you're of a mind.

[@sparkeyjones6261]

@@carbidetooth I'll definitely send some photos when they're finished. Almost there. One more question...... I just noticed the holes for the tube connectors seem way too small. I do have a reamer tool I could use to enlarge the holes a little but am afraid I might end up cracking the veneer. What would be your recommendation? I don't have access to a drill press, but if it's necessary I could probably pay someone to do it for me.

[@carbidetooth]

@@sparkeyjones6261 They're tight for sure but need to be. Tube Connectors have no directional barbs or taper; hence they rely on the ribs for retention. Finish can build up in holes, especially at the surface. I create a small "funnel" with a countersink and sometimes run a 7/16" drill slowly through them. Once started, I tap them home with a mallet and a block of wood. I'd advise against smacking them directly. If you have a tapered reamer, that can also work. If veneer is bonded well to substrate, I doubt you'll have problems. The flange on Tube Connectors should cover "funnel".

[@sparkeyjones6261]

@@carbidetooth Thanks Peter, I was a little unsure if the fit was supposed to be quite that tight. It seems as though the plastic could crack if forced them all the way in. I'll use your suggestion of creating a "funnel" with the tapered reamer.

[@tomfile3131]

When you are using the router, how do you prevent it from gouging into the mdf ? How does it follow the edge evenly ? I'm thinking of doing a set of Cornwall II's but have zero router experience. Thanks for the video.

[@carbidetooth]

Tom, the cutter I'm using and also list in description is guided by a bearing that rides on the surface. Its diameter is the same as the cutting spiral, hence the "flush trimmer" designation. Probably best to practice on some scraps if it's new to you, but it isn't difficult.

[@tomfile3131]

@@carbidetooth Thank you sir. Much appreciated.

[@andpeters1]

Did Not fall asleep. :) Going to veneer my pair of DIY subs with figured maple today. Thanks! Also I'm interested in how the X series compare to the Hivi/Swans kits...? Thanks for the

[@carbidetooth]

That's a good thing, right? While I can't make comparisons to the kits you mention, I find the value equation for all things GR Research extraordinary.

[@andpeters1]

@@carbidetooth thanks for the quick reply! 2 quick questions: Any reason not to apply glue to the whole box (maybe minus the side down), and as many veener pieces as you have room for - all at once - to save time on drying? 2) are there big advantages to the heatlok glue (which I got) vs regular titebond? I've seen others use titebond with the ironing technique. Thanks!

[@carbidetooth]

@@andpeters1 1.I wouldn't want to run bearing on flush trimmer on the dried glue surface. 2. I don't know the chemical formulations of each. My reasoning is that Heat Lock is specifically designed for the task. Although I know folks use it for iron veneering, Titebond is a general purpose wood glue. Does it make a difference? I don't know, but suppose I error on the side of "known quantities".

[@wastingtime9152]

I have built both kits. Sadly the GR Research XLS compare poorly to the Swan (Hivi) DIY 2.2A kits. I built the XLS about 10 years ago and last year built the DIY 2.2A. Frank Hale did some build videos on KZbin of the Swan (hivi) 3.1A. Frank was the owner of Swan before he sold his company to Hivi. The XLS kits are twice the price they once were. P.R. went to a lot of work to provide the flat packs and they look like they are of good quality. I have considered buying them to replace my original XLS cabinets and possibly veneer them as well.

[@andpeters1]

@@wastingtime9152 Thanks for the reply. By 'compare poorly' you mean an inferior product? In sound or build? I'm thankful for Peter's expansive instruction, but would like my limited budget (and skill) to go as far as possible. The zeos review of the Hivi kit makes it enticing...

[@greenbeginner3353]

Going by this video, do I have this right? 1) Roll the glue on a given speaker box face and the back of the paper backed veneer. (I didn’t catch anything about drying time, so I assume that there’s no need to wait). 2). Place The veneer -sticky side to sticky side (I didn’t catch anything about applying pressure) and iron it down with paper guarding the wood, (and, again, nothing said about pressure so it is just the heat that does the job.) Do I have this right?

[@carbidetooth]

No. Complete drying of glue is critical and I do mention it several times. Necessary pressure is mostly provided by weight of iron itself. Heat Lock glue comes with good instructions. This method is different from both contact glue and PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive), which is often referred to as "peel and stick". I find the Heat Lock method easier to control and it also provides a better bond than either of those.

[@clarenceoveur778]

Hi Peter, I bought my flat pack from you over a year ago. Got them assembled but haven't had the time to do the veneer (bubinga) until now. Quick questions, which spiral bit do you recommend I use to trim the veneer? I have both the up and the down versions you mentioned separately. Also, I'd like to make spacers to bring the tweeter flush with the veneer. What is the best way to do this accurately? Any chance you would sell me a couple? ;)

[@carbidetooth]

I use the down spiral flush trimmer listed in video description for everything. One way to ensure tweeter comes out flush after veneering is to cut spacer from actual veneer used. One can use the tweeter gasket as a pattern and a sharp Exacto knife to cut. I've also used thin gasket tape like this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WW6MZLM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@clarenceoveur778]

@@carbidetooth Perfect, thanks! I had a different part number in an email you sent me that was for the spiral up trimmer. I have both, so will go with your recommendation. I hadn't thought of using the tweeter gasket as a template. That's a great idea. Thanks!

[@mitsuracer87]

Couldn't the whole speaker be coated in glue all at once so you don't have to worry about getting glue on already-veneered panels?

[@carbidetooth]

luc1d, you're not the first to wonder about that so I'll paste my prior response. I can think of several reasons why that would pose a problem. One would be forced to run the flush trimmer over glue on adjacent panels and then file that same glue. Also, there would be no glue on edge of veneer in adjacent panels, which I'd consider a critical area.

[@huxleyuniversity]

Noticed some of the paperback veneer comes in 20 mil. Will the 20 mil veneers flex enough to work with the 1/2" radius?

[@carbidetooth]

I don't know if it would or not...I've never tried. Bear in mind that the actual wood veneer thickness is the same, only the paper backer doubles in thickness. That would make it more visible at edges and increase installation difficulty in an application like this. More is not always better, and I'd say this is a good example of that. If I'm not mistaken, the thicker backer is used architecturally, like a wood wall in an office building.

[@huxleyuniversity]

In the event of a routing mishap that requires repairing the cabinet (not a hypothetical situation - darn), what wood filer type product would you recommend that would be best suited to having veneer glued to the surface? Bondo gets utilized a lot in videos I’ve seen but I am not clear if this is suitable for a surface that is going to have veneer glued to it.

[@carbidetooth]

Bondo will work. I prefer glazing putty for its finer texture but both are polyester filler and will fill divots and work with Heat Lock glue.

[@danbalkey2580]

vary nice I just would like to know what bit did you used for the trimming

[@carbidetooth]

Hi Dan, I list tools and supplies in the video description. It bears repeating though. www.whitesiderouterbits.com/collections/flush-trim-spiral-bits/products/rftd2100

[@greenbeginner9221]

A new-guy question: Is this how production quantity speakers and furniture cabinets are made? Do they ever cut pieces out of mdf that is already veneered?

[@carbidetooth]

In industry, speed, consistency and cost are king. Depending on end product, there are several ways that a manufacturer might utilize pre-veneered sheet goods. It's a bigger subject than you might imagine, but this method is probably not well suited to the automation intensive needs of mass production.

[@ronk5551]

For the life of me, I can’t figure out how you trimmed the tweeter rabbit. I looked at the router bit listed in your equipment Notes but I just do see how it works.

[@carbidetooth]

Ronald, the 1/4" diameter x 3/32" long pilot on end of cutter acts as a guide bearing for flush trimming. It rides on the vertical surface (assuming cabinet is on its back) of rabbet. If it's still unclear, I can email a photo. My contact info is also in video description.

[@ronk5551]

@@carbidetooth Regarding the tweeter rabbet on the veneer finished ls encore, the bit referenced doesn't seem to be the ¼ X 3/32. If I understand, the very thin pilot will run along the wall of the rabbet. Doesn’t seem like much to keep the router from riding up over the edge. A photo would be great. I want to thank you for your response and very very helpful videos. All greatly appreciated

[@carbidetooth]

@@ronk5551 It's the last cutter shown in list. I promise it works... for me and many others. Email me at the above address and I can provide photos on an actual cabinet, I can't easily add photo to video once it's been published so that works best. Also this may be helpful at about the 10 minute mark: studio.kzbin.info-qyLOjH3s5s/analytics/tab-overview/period-default

[@ronk5551]

@@carbidetooth thank you again

[@ronk5551]

@@carbidetooth worked perfectly. Thank you again. ( a terrifying moment for a newbie completing a veneered baffles on an xstatic)

[@TwangThang57]

Would you ever consider putting a radius on the back and using one continuous sheet for the back and sides?

[@carbidetooth]

Sure thing. It would require seaming the veneer...typically in the middle of the back. That would add some complexity but it's certainly possible.

[@victorbrunette4940]

Love your work. What was the router bit you used for the tweeter rabbet? It’s very hard to find. Please help.

[@carbidetooth]

Victor, expanding video description will yield a wealth of information, including this: www.amanatool.com/51204-solid-carbide-short-flat-pilot-for-dado-clean-out-dado-cleaning-flush-trim-1-4-dia-x-1-4-x-1-4-inch-shank-x-1-flute.html?ff=1&fp=8482

[@markw2808]

I am veneering the same MDF speakers in the vid with Heat Lock glue and down cutting trimming router bit, both from Veneer Supplies. The problem I am having is that while the router bit trims the wood veneer okay, but the result is that the residual paper backing from the veneer overhang gets glued to the side of the cabinet that the router bit travels along. And if I have taped off the finished veneer side with blue tape, a sliver of the blue tape gets embedded under the paper backing. It takes tons of time fiddling around with an Xacto tool and sanding block to get the edges flush. I don't wait very long after the veneer has been ironed to do the routing and maybe I need to wait longer? What in the world am I doing wrong? I am ready to go back to contact cement, which I hate using. Any help would be appreciated,

[@carbidetooth]

Let's see if we can figure it out, Mark. 1.You may be onto something when you mention the glue drying longer. I let it cool completely before trimming. If using masking tape to keep glue off already veneered surfaces, I remove it before trimming. 2. If you're not using the file I recommend with a file card to clean it, that will make final finishing of trimmed edges a bunch easier. It might just surprise you! 3. I suppose it's also possible you're applying excessive glue, but I can't say I've ever actually seen that. 4. A long shot, but I don't have experience with that particular spiral trimmer but assume it will work fine. My go-to for some years has been the Whiteside I link in the description.

[@markw2808]

@@carbidetooth

[@markw2808]

Oh my, a response from you personally... I feel honored as I have learned everything i know about this DIY cabinet finishing from your detailed videos. Removing the protective tape before the trimming process is the first step which you pointed in your video which I missed. Secondly, a much long wait time before routing the edges I will try too. I will check out your recommended router bit as that might well be the problem with the residual paper backing clinging to the sides. Finally I am going to Woodcrafters tomorrow to get the file you recommend. Peter, you are a stellar asset to the DIY audio community and I am sure that I am but one of thousands who appreciate you making these terrific videos available to us. Thanks again for the reply, it is most appreciated.

[@cops1987]

Does anybody know where to buy this Heat-Lock Veneer Glue (or similar) in UK? Or how it is called here? Thanks, Iacopo

[@ryan8773]

What to do if i just have wood veneer and no paperback? the wood is australian cypress. how should I handle that?

[@carbidetooth]

Heat Lock can be used on raw veneer. I would suggest flattening first if it's at all wavy or lumpy. Veneer Supplies also offers something called Veneer Softener which might prove useful. Outside of that there are other methods. Clamping cauls or vacuum bagging, but they're a bit more work and also tool intensive.

[@greenbeginner3353]

How did you get the veneer to wrap around those sharp 90 degree corners? (I was expecting in to snap like a saltine cracker). What is the brand you use that can handle sharp 90 degree corners like that? I’ve never seen that before. Or do you have the cabinet corners rounded? (Can’t tell from the distant camera angle). (Actually, even if the corners are rounded, I’ve never seen a veneer that could handle that bend without a fracture.)

[@carbidetooth]

I don't wrap a sharp corner. The front edges are rounded over with 1/2" radius. The key to veneer flexibility is the paper backed veneer I'm using. All material resources are listed in the video description. I suspect if you're watching on a phone much of the detail you're asking about would be visible on a bigger screen.

[@vikassm]

Seamless! Looks more 'professional' if you do the top, bottom & rear first, then veneer the front/sides.

[@carbidetooth]

I've mentioned before that I do it this way for a couple of reasons. Visually I like it better as the top is likely to be the most visible surface. Also, should liquid find its way to the top, the side seam is less vulnerable . Hair splitting perhaps, but there was Peter logic involved.

[@vikassm]

@@carbidetooth Nice!

[@roberthurley4424]

Does anyone know what 'shallow bushing' router bit Peter is using to remove the veneer from the speaker cut out?

[@carbidetooth]

Yes they do! Expand the video description for a list of materials and cutters used in most all my videos.

[@MrTommygm]

Hi Peter, I have some sheets of Walnut Burl, could I use the same method with these on the cabinets

[@carbidetooth]

I've found this method works best with paper backed veneer. If we're talking unbacked burls, they would need to be flattened first for sure. Some burls have voids and inclusions that may pose some challenges when ironing.

[@greenbeginner9221]

Do you have information on how to make and install front grills for the GR Research speakers? I couldn't chance the drivers being exposed.

[@carbidetooth]

It could be done, but would require some fabrication. Although I've done it on my own speakers, interest in grills for my flat packs has been almost nil. I cover it in a couple of build threads on Audio Circle if it's of interest. www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=139529.0 www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=100369.0

[@patrickb8038]

I am having bonding issues with the heat lock glue, i did two coats both surfaces and pretty much did the same exact process you did. Any suggestions?

[@carbidetooth]

Patrick, Veneer Supplies would be a better resource for answering questions concerning their products. I suggest you contact them for more comprehensive advice. My thoughts without knowing exactly what you're experiencing: Is the glue fresh? It does have a shelf life. Has it ever been frozen? Have you tried another iron? Perhaps yours isn't heating correctly.

[@ttownscott]

I have a Dremel. Can I use a Dremel edge bit?

[@carbidetooth]

I don't know what that is specifically, but there are several ways to trim veneer.

[@andrewbardwell4832]

Why not roller the entire cabinet before beginning the veneering?

[@carbidetooth]

Andrew, I assume you mean applying Heat Lock glue? I can think of several reasons. One would be forced to run the flush trimmer over glue on adjacent panels and then file that same glue. Also, there would be no glue on edge of veneer in adjacent panels, which I'd consider a critical area.

[@andrewbardwell4832]

@@carbidetooth thank you... you are the most professional cabinet builder I’ve found on KZbin... love your attention to detail.

[@t3dewys]

What router bit do you use for the larger speaker hole. My bit hits the rabbit.

[@carbidetooth]

Travis, I list cutters used in the video description. I think this is the one you're after www.amanatool.com/51204-solid-carbide-short-flat-pilot-for-dado-clean-out-dado-cleaning-flush-trim-1-4-dia-x-1-4-x-1-4-inch-shank-x-1-flute.html?ff=1&fp=8482

[@t3dewys]

@@carbidetooth It is. Thank you so much, and Happy Thanksgiving

[@dinhduynguyen3809]

Great video! Do you have any tips as to how to veneer a tweeter waveguide, which will (obviously) be uneven. I am specifically talking about the GR Research NX Studio Monitors that Danny started offering for a few months now

[@carbidetooth]

I haven't done it, but it has been done where waveguide met baffle face with a sharp edge. See this: www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=146187.80 The problem with doing same on NX Studios is there's a radius where waveguide meets baffle front and veneer is all but impossible to bend over small radii and/or compound curves. If I were wanting it to look wood grainy, I might consider some sort of faux wood finish, although I'm not that experienced there so can't offer much guidance other than Google and perhaps here on KZbin.

[@WigandKleine]

Great video: does it make a difference if you put a radius on the front baffle (easier to do if you paint the box) or use sharp corners if veneering?

[@carbidetooth]

Best practice would dictate a 3/8" or greater radius on sides and top to reduce cabinet edge diffraction, but I'm obviously ignoring some of that (top edge) because of veneer bending limitations. The saying about everything's a compromise applies here. I guess bottom line is to avoid square edges on baffle around tweeter if you can.

[@drexellake4051]

What speed with the router?

[@carbidetooth]

The old PC 690s I use don't have variable speed capability, but I imagine it around 20-22K RPM.

[@think2023]

Does anyone know how to set playback speed to 4X?

[@vitallongevity7062]

what bits do you use for your router?

[@carbidetooth]

Cutters and other supplies are linked in the video description.

[@Scottyman99]

Thickness of the veneer?

[@carbidetooth]

Scott, most USA produced veneer is 1/40" or 1/45" for the actual veneer. The paper backing it's attached to is typically 10 mil. (.010) or 20 mil (.020). If I have a choice for a wrap like I show in this video, I like the more flexible 10 mil. as it's easier to get around a small radius. Combined thickness for veneer and backer is typically .020 -.030. Weird how different units of measure are used, but that's the way the industry has evolved.

[@budgethometheaterandhifi]

What speed is your router set to when flush trimming the veneer?

[@carbidetooth]

The routers I use for flush trimming are single speed. That would probably be highest on many that are variable. 18-23K RPM or thereabouts.

[@budgethometheaterandhifi]

@@carbidetooth thanks for the response Peter. One more question, will standard blade-style trim router bits work as well as spiral cut bits?

[@carbidetooth]

@@budgethometheaterandhifi I've come to really like spiral cutters, especially for flush trimming. Think of it like this; Spirals progressively shear where blades chop, chop, chop as they rotate. That said, you could use a straight blade cutter, but if you try the Whiteside mentioned in description for this or heavier cutting, I suspect you'll get hooked.

[@budgethometheaterandhifi]

@@carbidetooth Thanks again, I'll give it a try!

[@ii1825]

58:08 Now we are going to save time and only do one?? Nice video but could be condensed so much more. Cliff notes... I can't imagine how the other version could possibly be any longer. No need to show doing everything twice. Cut out a lot of the mindless gluing and such. How bout a little music instead of the router noise?

[@paulespino6462]

What is the router bit that you described at 1:39mins?

[@carbidetooth]

Paul, I link to all the cutters I used used in the video description box. If you're looking for the short trimmer for tweeter rabbet, it's this one: www.amanatool.com/51204-solid-carbide-short-flat-pilot-for-dado-clean-out-dado-cleaning-flush-trim-1-4-dia-x-1-4-x-1-4-inch-shank-x-1-flute.html?ff=1&fp=8482

[@paulespino6462]

@@carbidetooth Peter, thank you so much for replying! Your videos are so insightful and helpful. Every tid bit of information that you provide throughout the process is so fantastic. I appreciate your time and efforts putting these videos together! Thank you so much!

[@googoo-gjoob]

"quick cliff notes.... 73 minutes!"

[@carbidetooth]

Cliiiifff notes, I suppose. As it turns out, short and sweet isn't my wheelhouse.

[@googoo-gjoob]

@@carbidetooth 👌✌🤙

[@googoo-gjoob]

@@carbidetooth , beautiful work...you have skills. i just couldnt let the joke go