How to veneer speakers. DIY Speaker Veneer. Wood veneering you home built speakers.

[@driftwoodturning6846]

Hi. Great vid. And a great finish. What sealer did you use and also what glue please. Ive been looking for a way to iron on veneer for ages. Keep up the good work.

[@DIY-AUDIO]

I just use a waterproof pva that I buy in 5l from hardware store. Use numerous coats of polyurethane varnish thinned with white spirit and sand lightly between each couple of coats when dry. Hope this helps!!

[@johnnguyen6026]

Thanks for the video. I need to restore some speakers. This was very simple to understand. If I were to pay someone to do this. What would be a reasonable rate for labor?

[@DIY-AUDIO]

Hi John, no idea what labour charges would be but, if you have an iron and some time it's fairly simple. Would imagine here in UK someone would charge 20-30 per hour so could work out quite expensive. I'd take a chance and do it yourself. If you didn't have a router to trim the edges you could do it (be gentle) with a varying grade of sandpapers

[@danielh12345]

John, I was a first timer too. This process is pretty fool proof and surprisingly simple to get a great result! The video really says all you need to know:) I had non paper backed veneer and used a veneer roller to apply extra pressure (birch plywood substrate, probably will apply slightly less pressure on the mdf cabinets, I will see. I have since veneered the speaker stands I made later with left over veneer too. Try it on a scrap piece of wood to get a feel for it with an offcut of the veneer you're not going to use. Bonus is you can test the finishing process on that too!

[@danielh12345]

One bonus tip, for cutting across the grain of the veneer I did get a veneer saw, it helped my veneer from splitting. Also, if your edges aren't fully 90 degrees (my speaker stands used a old support beam) you can use a screwdriver (not the tip, just the metal rod) to gently apply pressure and push the wood into eachother, it just rolls over the edges and makes it seamless :) it's the same as what people do when their 45 degree cuts don't fully meet. Worked for me atleast!

[@hkwdk]

Do you have sucess on larger surfaces aswell? Good work

[@DIY-AUDIO]

Hi, have just done this build and the results were even better. Practice makes perfect I guess!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHPWqHugmLSiiJI

[@SilverSabre]

that was super helpful, thank you!

[@DIY-AUDIO]

👍

[@hoobsgroove]

wht type of wood glue sre you using! they don't seem to sale PVA so much anymore, not sure if these new wood glues work the same! I would have put a baffle board fixed to the port just behind the magnet.. no more than quarter of an inch gap damping with Blu-Tack, the baffle would cover the whole area except the top lever 3-inch gap should give you a 4 order bass reflex. fill the inner chamber at the bottom of the driver with pieces of foam and fleece glue the fleece so it doesn't move after you're happy with it of how much filling. plus the port is too long for the width it should never extend the inner width of diameter. looks like an inch should be cut off and and flared on the inside as well.

[@DIY-AUDIO]

Just a general weatherproof wood adhesive. Worked brilliantly!

[@ferespi1612]

Excellent video !

[@DIY-AUDIO]

Thanks

[@danielh12345]

Thank you so much for this video, really gave me the confidence I needed for my first project. So happy and proud of it! Now I want to do something special for my brothers birthday. Will hopefully turn out even better than mine with the experience previously gained! I do have a question though if I may. I had baltic birch panels for my first build so did not need a sealer. The kit now has mdf panels and I'm not sure what (type of) sealer I should use. Mdf sealers that I see are aimed at painted finishes. Is that the type of sealer you used? I'm unsure if the glue will adhere to it and have been unable to find out. I do have some dewaxed shellac at hand, I believe that is commonly marketed as a sanding sealer. Would you be able to point me in the right direction for a sealer that is suitable? Or even just the product you used, then I can research what it is and if I can find similar here in the Netherlands. Would be much appreciated! Once again, thank you for this video!

[@DIY-AUDIO]

Hi Daniel, this is the link to the product I use here in the UK. www.toolstation.com/rustins-quick-drying-clear-mdf-primer-sealer/p87589. Some of my newest builds on the channel are in my opinion better veneered. It's certainly a case of practice makes perfect!! I only use one coat of the sealer, it stops the glue used for veneering drying too quickly and have never had a reaction to the PVA glue

[@arneltao1883]

Nice video 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@DIY-AUDIO]

Thanks for your comments

[@m.j.s.3838]

So, there is no need for a backing veneer when veneering a finished box?

[@DIY-AUDIO]

Sorry, I don't understand the question. Backing veneer?

[@mitsuracer87]

​@DIY AUDIO I think he's talking about veneering the inside of the box so that there are "equal forces" on each panel. Sounds like an idea the veneer companies came up with to sell twice as much veneer 😂

[@jameshuntley428]

Great video. I just subscribed to your channel

[@DIY-AUDIO]

👍

[@roeyleon22]

Which Edge Trimmer Router Bit you were using, please?

[@DIY-AUDIO]

FLUSH CUT ROUTER BIT: amzn.to/3q9iiVp or s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DB4xaCh

[@jozsefmihaly9381]

Nagyon ügyes…..

[@DIY-AUDIO]

👍

[@bradster0001]

What breed of wood did uses for this video?

[@DIY-AUDIO]

Mdf wood 😂😂. Veneer is here ebay.us/oSV04d

[@bristolwoodburners81]

Just tried to follow yr tutorial and had a nightmare! ...im thinking maybe ive got the wrong veneer. I Bought it off a local company - its crown cut oak and seems pretty thick compared to what you are using its probably 1-1.5mm with no backing- theres no way i could roll it like you guys can with yours . Ive followed yr tutorial to the letter ...but the veneer is starting to curl up after a few seconds of applying any glue to it . The iron almost seems to make things worse. The centre seems to stick ok but the edges just peel up and away from the speaker and again...the iron seems to make this worse and further encourages the delamination. Im left wondering what the purpose of the iron actually is ? ...somethings wrong with my set up as you guys all seem to get great results relatively easily using this method. Any suggestions/advise would be great ...thanks

[@DIY-AUDIO]

Thinking aloud, it could be that the heat isn't penetrating the veneer as the veneer I use is only about 0.6mm and paper backed. I try and use two coats of PVA on the mdf (letting each coat dry or using a Hairdryer to speed things up and one on the veneer but maybe as your veneer is thicker try 2coats of PVA on it (it does curl up a little) may be just try that on some off cuts? Reckon as your edges are not sticking this may help. Alternatively due to the thickness of the veneer you may have to use a different method. Hope it works out!! You can always speak to your supplier they may suggest wet glueing and compressing!

[@bristolwoodburners81]

@DIY-AUDIO thanks for getting back to me. Yes i think gluing and clamping each panel. Is my only option now. Being 1.5mm thick also means i have a glue line 1.5mm back from my edges - even with really tight joins the build up of the veneer is still visible - i guess with 0.6 mm you are not able to see the material build up at your joins unless you are really looking for it ?

[@DIY-AUDIO]

@@bristolwoodburners81 with the finer veneer, you are certainly less likely to see the edges but in the last few builds where I have used veneer (all on the channel), I'm getting better results all the time. Best of luck!!

[@danielh12345]

I use a veneer roller to press hard after using the iron, it does get it all tighter. There is also a method of using vacuum bags, haven't used it. My veneer was again standard size though, so maybe this entire comment isnt helpful. I roll and apply pressure from the inside to the outside until the veneer has cooled and the glue has set. I can go back over with the iron at the edges for example and repeat, heating up the glue again releases it and I can roll and press again until my edges are properly snug. There is still a tiny glue line on my project, i believe its all on the outside and should sand off though.The veneer I used for this project was also oak, just finished the last piece an hour ago. It also curls while applying the glue to the veneer, what I like to do is put a bunch of plastic tape or just plastic on a piece of cardboard, then tape the edges loosely. Roll the glue over it. It helps in making it curl less. The plastic stops it from sticking to the cardboard or other surface you roll it on. I only losely tape a small edge, if the wood really wants to bend it will and will peel lose from the tape, thats better than it cracking. Make sure to renew the plastic so theres no glue on it if you overshot it when rolling the glue. When you roll the next piece you dont want glue on the outside edge.

[@danielh12345]

Oh, one more thing to add, if you reheat and roll, be careful to not fracture it, if the surrounding area is all stuck down you may apply pressure which cant go anywhere. I have two small splits across the grain. I believe I just have a poorly cut piece of veneer with a lot of stress in it. It already was cracking before i touched it. This did mean it was more likely to crack though and I should have taken that into account more. Next time if I do need to reheat I'll heat up the entire length so its able to move. Im not sure if that is what caused the cracks, I'm relatively inexperienced. But its food for thought.

[@SignorZukini]

Thanks for the great video! What are you are sealing the MDF with?

[@DIY-AUDIO]

A standard mdf sealer bought from hardware store. Have used a mix of waterproof PVA and water and it seemed to work fine as well.

[@SignorZukini]

@@DIY-AUDIO excellent, thanks very much!