Xbox One X HDMI Retimer IC Replacement Guide (TDP158)

Short and to the point today, sometimes the Xbox One X stops displaying for no apparent reason. No signal or just a black screen. The HDMI Retimer IC might be the culprit! Pesky TDP158. Microsoldering required. Links to tools and parts below:
I am not responsible for damage or data loss caused by you to your device, this is not a guide for beginners and reasonable safety precautions should be followed. Attempt this repair at your own risk.
Parts used:
www.mobilesentrix.com/hdmi-ch...
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Tools:
Technik Tweezers (The only kind I'd recommend)
amzn.to/3Gb5aRG
Precision Screwdriver Set w/ Security Torx for consoles
amzn.to/33SEPuV
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Music:
♪ Sunset (Prod. by Lukrembo)
Link : • (no copyright music) j...

[@tophatrr_2142]

This would be the coolest job ever

[@K-11609]

Quick question, I see some videos mention the thermal paste that is placed on the heat sink above the motherboard and I just wanted to make sure if it’s required to replace the paste both on the cpu and the patches around the heat sink after finishing the repair and putting the console back together?

[@TapticDigital]

Not necessary, just place a blob in the very center of the CPU and it should be fine once you clamp the heatsink back down

[@marcinanglart1429]

Could you please provide the value of capacitors c16, c17, c18?

[@corsair38]

Hi, thx for video can I have the reference of the tips that you tile ? especially the hook one

[@TapticDigital]

Sure, the flat one for the feet is a Hakko T15-D24 chisel tip, the curved hook one is a Hakko T15-J02 Conical Bent Nose tip.

[@meezee894]

Hi thank you for the video. Did you use the same temp heat when reinstalling the new chip. Thanks

[@TapticDigital]

Yep! Same temperature for everything, right about 420 seems to do the trick for me

[@meezee894]

@@TapticDigital Hey thanks you. Maybe you could direct me. I set the chip dot to dot matched. Soldered in and still no signal. Reset the chip again still no signal. Both times the monitor does see the port. example HDMI 4 . But again no signal. any help would be great. thanks

[@TapticDigital]

@@meezee894 it could just be a bad chip, I've gotten a few here and there. I'd also check the port itself to make sure each leg is actually fully attached to the pad. If it still doesn't work, it's likely a more serious issue with the processor

[@jadenberger8120]

My Xbox is doing the same thing right now. How exactly does that connect from just sitting there with flux

[@tristanwilson3690]

There's solder underneath the chip

[@BroManz37]

ok ive been trying to learn how to solder using the hot air gun no one ever shows the dial of airflow and explain how close or far the gun needs to be from the ic its kinda hard to tell on youtube.... any tips will help ... i cant remove the ic for the life of me

[@TapticDigital]

For sure! So on the hot air station you're going to want to set your heat to 450C, sometimes up to 470C if it's taking a long time. Flow is going to depend on the part being removed. If it's the HDMI port, max airflow and about 2-3 inches up from the part. For smaller chips I reduce airflow to about 10-25% (it can blow parts off!) and keep it very close, 1 inch or so. IC are tricky since you can't directly hit the solder points and have to rely on heating the chip and board, I recommend adding more flux than you think, it will help the heat flow under the chip a bit more evenly.

[@BroManz37]

@@TapticDigital ty so much

[@gstvzenit9144]

greetings good video, any idea why these ICs tend to go bad so often on the one x?

[@TapticDigital]

I wish I knew! It may be some kind of higher power draw to deliver 4K, but they definitely fail on the X more than any other.

[@SingTodayi]

​@@TapticDigital Hello! Nice channel 😊 Could you please tell. Can i replace 75DP159 with TDP158?

[@TapticDigital]

@@SingTodayi I have not tried, they are very similar but may work differently

[@Wurstifier]

Does the TDP158 wotk in the Xbox One S? Or does the TDP159 work in the Xbox One X? The chips are different, but I'd like to buy the best option for both, since I have a bunch of S and X laying around ;)

[@TapticDigital]

They are device specific as far as I know, so this one only works in the One X. Though I've never tried swapping them, I have a feeling it wouldn't work very well.

[@Wurstifier]

@@TapticDigital as far as I remember, one chip fits them both.. but I don't know which one.

[@richardstone8615]

I was told they’ll fit both I’m trying it

[@bennylisia2606]

@@richardstone8615 so it work?

[@jeandread]

@@richardstone8615 vice-versa, and it works?

[@bagos13GR]

can't figure out what i am doing wrong in the retimer chip change, i ve done it like 5 times with 5 different consoles and 5 chips, still i get black screen.

[@TapticDigital]

It's very important that these chips are oriented the correct way, and that each leg is attached fully. I'd possible try not to directly heatgun the new chip, instead heat the board and drop the chip in once the solder has liquefied.

[@butcher_bay]

What type of andsolder binder and flux did you use?

[@TapticDigital]

ChipQuik brand tacky flux, and random unidentifiable leaded solder.

[@Tay58382]

Just curious couldn't you have just reflowed the chip ? Really what could possibly go wrong with the chip I never see anybody just reflowing them so I take it there's a reason behind that and I can't find any videos where as anyone's ever just reflowed the chip

[@TapticDigital]

Most techs will try a reflow first just to avoid using parts, but in most cases the chip has gone bad from a short. These little fellas are only rated up to a certain voltage, and going over that too far will lead to the internal traces of the IC actually rupturing or cracking. If you were to X ray those chips you’d find a pretty intricate network of connections, because they are so small they will break before the larger external components do.

[@zanderflander7880]

How much would you charge to replace a retimer in Xbox series x?

[@TapticDigital]

While I don't offer mail in repairs just yet, I usually charge about $100, or a smaller upcharge if they are getting the port replaced too.

[@ehl-ikeyf6707]

What is the name of the liquid you use?

[@TapticDigital]

Flux

[@X__iiiiaaannn]

used a heat gun on the recommended heat. still cannot remove the ic chip :(

[@TapticDigital]

The amount of copper in these boards is damn near insane. The board is basically a heatsink itself. In these cases I max out the heatgun and keep heat moving in a circle around the chip, giving it a direct blast every so often. Too much heat and you’ll get thermal shock and destroy the board, so you have to spread it around as much as possible

[@X__iiiiaaannn]

@@TapticDigital I'll be sure to try that, I stopped after 15 seconds from fear of damage. Nervous newbie here, obviously. Thanks for your reply & video, sending virtual hugs and good vibes your way

[@chandlercoleman5835]

do you have a discord by any chance?

[@TapticDigital]

Sure, it's tapticdigital, or Taptic Digital#3678. Fair warning, I'm not super active, but you can always shoot me a message.

[@chandlercoleman5835]

Awesome! and I meant more of a hideout for your online homies to hang out in and help each other learn the craft!@@TapticDigital

[@brittanytillis5250]

Where can I have this done at

[@TapticDigital]

Check local shops with decent reviews. Most cell phone repair shops also offer console repairs

[@CoasterMan13Official]

My dad's gonna need this video for when he fixes my Xbox which has the black screen of death.

[@Tay58382]

No he won't he'll need to send it in .

[@user-us3qx7ok9l]

Hi ,can u teach me why I use 480°c fan, can't take it down,thx

[@TapticDigital]

I think you mean at 480°c it still isn't coming off? It takes a lot of heat, just keep heating it until the solder melts.

[@user-us3qx7ok9l]

@@TapticDigital Thank youfor your answer , May I ask how long it took you to desolder

[@TapticDigital]

@@user-us3qx7ok9l it was at least 1-2 full minutes of heating, make sure you move the heat around in a circle to spread it a bit better

[@user-us3qx7ok9l]

@@TapticDigital In this case, it means that the temperature indicated on my newly bought heat gun is falsely labeled, showing 480 degrees Celsius, but in reality, it's not that hot. Therefore, I blew it for more than 10 minutes, but still couldn't unlock the chip."

[@TapticDigital]

@@user-us3qx7ok9l oh no, you may need another heatgun then!

[@levaplevap3379]

Привет друг отлично все супер молодец🤟👍👍👍👋💪