LC200 | PROBLEMS & ISSUES | Not everything goes to plan -Mechanical-Electrical-Suspension 200 SERIES

Not everything goes to plan and social media doesn’t show you the things that don’t work. In this episode I cover all the problems I’ve had with the 200 series Landcruiser, whether it be from factory or the accessories I have mounted aftermarket.
I’ve spent a decent amount of time with the Landcruiser, owning the vehicle for over 3 years and racking up 128,000km on the odometer.
00:00 - Introduction
01:32 - Mechanical
04:58 - Driveline
06:58 - Suspension
14:31 - Electrical
20:05 - Other
Thanks for watching today’s video and don’t forget to leave a comment if you have any suggestions as to how I might be able to fix some of those on-going little issues.
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[@VenidiciRobidici]

Great vid, Nathan! Thanks for relating your real-life running issues with us. Grateful to you for sharing these with us. I hope 2022 sees most of your probs fixed.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate the feedback and hopefully this can provide some comforting information to others with similar issues. Cheers, I'm sure 2022 will be an awesome year!

[@bigfishfishing-111]

Really enjoy your videos. No nonsense reviews and always very well explained. Your videos are my favourite on the KZbin platform. I was going to go the Bp51s in my Cruiser but got told the remote res Dobinsons Mrra were better. So far I've done 24k and all good so far. I dont do rough tracks, just sand driving and long highway kms on fishing trips. Electrical issues can screw with your head and even worse when proffesionals can't work it out. Hope you get to the bottom of it soon. Watching this was a good start to my morning.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, really appreciate the feedback and humbled to hear that you enjoy the channel so much! I'm glad to hear that you have managed to find a suspension system that works well for your vehicle. To be honest, the BP51 have performed reasonable well, it was just those issues of the fitting and lack of technicians knowledge on the product that left a bitter feeling. Electrical issues.... what a headache, luckily nothing too major for me, but always a little frustrating. Thanks again mate, Nathan.

[@maverickreviewed7894]

How does the Dobinson do on the rough parts of the highway (potholes, asphalt ridges and other imperfections) compared to stock setup?

[@philg2468]

Great video! Suggestions: Remove the secondary fuel filter and see if problem goes away. There is a ~30mm O-ring between the filter and bowl which can easily get left out and is not supplied with replacement filters. If that doesn't work, replace top on factory filter as others have suggested. Oil leak. Might be a sign of increased crankcase pressure from the catch can. I'd disconnect the catch can and go back to the simple factory hose. Low voltage - probably poor earthing. Make a new earth point to the body in teh back of the car - remove paint, tap thread and install a new bolt covered in Vaseline, and hook everything up to that. Also make sure the factory body earth that comes off your cranking battery is in good nick and making good contact with the body. Parasitic loss from 2nd battery. Just pull fuses until it goes away to identify the problem. I found my inverter had small losses when switched off so replaced the fuse with a large circuit breaker which can be used as a switch.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, all good suggestions here and I think I will go through and try each one. Appreciate the time taken to send these through and I'll definitely report back with any progress made. Cheers, Nathan.

[@jimbo4838]

I've also got a small leak on my rear main seal and I have just clicked over 100,000. I've also thought if the catch can increases crank case pressure. Wish someone would look into it.

[@quinnmarsden9375]

Hi Phil G and Nathan. What Phil G sounds like a terrific suggestion with the fuel system. I'm an ex - HD fitter by trade and would like to see what you think, when we used to test radiators after refurbishment we used to do a leak test on them for the cores, top and bottom tank. Radiator test kit to pump up positive pressure from the fuel tank cap to the outlet of the secondary filter to the fuel pump. This would depend if you can get a test fuel cap with test fitting and to be able to plug the filter outlet hose to the injection pump. Do a pressure leak down test and check your gauge over a few minutes for pressure drop or do a visual of your fittings and washers. I don't know what the internals of the filter housing assembly looks like but it may determine if your injectors are leaking off thier seat. Phil G would this work? For Nathan

[@nathancurran8550]

Looking at the video I had a similar issue and after replacing the factory hose clamp with one from Bunnings that solved any further air locks. It took me a year of priming before I figured this out. Hope this helps🤙🏼

[@XploringOz]

@@nathancurran8550 Cheers mate, quick easy fix that is well worth a try! Thanks.

[@chickmagpunk]

Hey Nate, great vid as always. Nice of you to share lessons learned with this vehicle. I've had a similar fueling issue, although mine just had a brief rough idle if it had sat for a few days. I changed out the fuel filter top housing (part with the primer pump) which was a $90 part change which fixed my problem. Best way to diagnose this (and eliminate any loose hoses near prefilter/filter) is to prime the fuel system using the hand pump as much as you can. Then shake and move all the hoses and fuel filter parts and listen for a hiss and try to figure out where the air is coming from.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing that. I'll look into the primer part as some others have mentioned this as well. Would be happy if this issue went away for $90 rather than some of the alternatives... Cheers.

[@gregtoth7534]

Thanks Nathan for your honesty in this vid. Many die hard fans would never admit to making mistakes with their builds. I too suffer from some similar issues that you have experienced here. It's refreshing to note I'm not the only one experiencing voltage loss as well as similar suspension issues. Thanks for making this video. it goes a long way in keeping us all motivated with our builds.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, always appreciate the comments. For sure, it can be hard admitting mistakes or problems, but I think it needs to be done. No one ever gets it perfect all the time and this build is a testament to this. Glad you are still enjoying the channel and glad I've been able to help somewhat. Cheers, Nathan.

[@joeyespragosa8041]

Good video Nathan thank your for info,can I please to know also common trouble shooting of LC 200 pls

[@Roachesontheroad]

Thanks Nathan. Really enjoy all your videos love your honesty

[@Second_Gutter_Crew]

Love all your content Nathan, Keep up the great work mate 🍻

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate it 👍

[@thinpins1]

Thanks Nathan, I’ve just picked up a dead stock 2014 Sahara and your videos are very helpful. I like the way you think 👍.

[@XploringOz]

Awesome, thanks mate. Good vehicle 👍 All the best with all your new adventures

[@travelling_two]

Another good one Nathan, thank you. A few items there I can relate to, especially the parasitic current drawn from the aux battery by dashcams and USB chargers, etc.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, yeah I can imagine there would be a few people out there with a few issues like these. Some good suggestions coming though the comments though, so that's good! Cheers.

[@chrisspies8123]

Uet another good amd informative vid Nathan. It'sgreat to continue to see your real world and honest review on things. Hoping you grt these gremins fixed before your big trip

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoy the channel 👍 Hope so too, would make life on the road a little easier

[@adriankiraly5172]

Awesome honest video! Personally I wouldn't go overboard modifying such an expensive vehicle. After all Toyota spent tens of millions of dollars engineering the product, the aftermarket industry would never spend that sort of dollars testing their product. Personally I would buy an offroad camper and modifying it to suit my needs, eliminating tampering with the vehicle. Then again, it is personal choice. Thank you for the upload.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed the vid! Yeah, I hear you and I guess that's the best part of the car scene, everyone has their personal take on certain things and almost anything is possible. The Landcruiser is such a capable vehicle from factory, however I'm a big fan of tinkering with things, something it works well, other time not so much. All part of the fun and learning experience. Chees, Nathan.

[@ral208]

Good information you have provided. I like that you always stressed it how you have set up the vehicle for your particular needs. Very important I think. I had the main battery fail, after having the vehicle sitting for over a week not started. The NRMA bloke noticed there was a leak in the second battery about the same you described. Thanks again for a very informative video.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it! Absolutely, it's something that is so important, however seems to be forgotten about with the influence from places like KZbin and social media. I hear you there. I always try and keep my cruiser on some sort of charge now while away for a little while, whether it be from solar or a trickle AC charger, hopefully keep the batteries going just that little bit longer. Cheers, Nathan.

[@carlgunther5163]

Hi mate thanks for the feedback. its good to see that its not just me with the odd problem on my 200.

[@XploringOz]

No problems mate! Absolutely, doesn't matter which vehicle you have, things are bound to go wrong over time. Still love this cruiser though! Cheers, Nathan.

[@barrymurphy3554]

Nice information Bro

[@XploringOz]

Cheers mate 👍

[@babydoc3622]

Great video. regarding your build i was wondering what your estimated finished weight is for the rig and what is your current fuel efficiency for 100ks?

[@johnstaring3210]

Just days before my warranty expired I had an issue with the centre diff light coming on. This resulted in: 1, not being able to engage low range, and 2, negating the cruise control. Took it to the dealer who rang me several hours later saying they couldn't detect an issue and could I come and collect the vehicle !! The service advisor just suggested to me that they just disconnect the light !!!!! The fact that this would have left me with no low range and no cruise control seemed to mean nothing to him. I then took the car to another outlet of the same dealership and the workshop foreman phoned me within 30 mins to advise that the (?) initiator needed replacing and that approval would have to come from Toyota HQ as it was a $3K part. I love this wagon, and now have 215K km on it, a 2014 model. After finding multiple stripped/cross theaded screws underneath the vehicle I now do all my own servicing. Air/rattle guns are a curse !!

[@actpiet]

I have to agree, rattle guns ruin every bolt the service agents touch. And it was never them!

[@XploringOz]

Disappointing to hear about the service you received! Can't believe anyone with any sort of pride in the work and workshop reputation would recommend this! Glad you were able to sort it in the end, but like you said. Things have to be done yourself to get the job done properly these days.... Cheers, Nathan.

[@vin6455]

once again an awesome honest video..thanks Nathan.

[@XploringOz]

Cheers mate, glad you enjoyed it 👍

[@user-og9uq7nv2g]

You have an air leak, probably at the non factory clamp on your fuel filter. Take that off and use a worm clamp, and do it up TIGHT. You may be able to hear a sound while using the priming pump, especially when the plunger goes hard. I had the same issue with mine and that was the cause.

[@jcv551]

Hi Nathan Great honest video as always. My mechanic recommended and fitted the kaon shock guards to my 200 and I think they are great he also installed the Ironman forged upper control arms with my king suspension and the land cruiser drives great. I specifically bought the non Kdss model gxl to avoid what a lot of people are going through with the leaning. I hope you have luck with all the small issues but definitely look into the Kaon shock guards.👍

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate it. Yes, I have my eye on the Kaon guards, that sure look the part and hopefully something I'll put onto the vehicle sooner rather than later. Ahh, the infamous KDSS lean, although frustrating I do enjoy the benefits it does bring. Cheers, Nathan.

[@chrisgraham1179]

Really enjoyed that vid mate, one of your best yet. Of particular interest was the suspension, especially given I’ve just pulled the trigger on same set up to be fitted in April. I really don’t want that much lift in height, but I am heavy with dual carriers, bull bar winch, dual batt, and drawers etc, soooo hopefully I won’t get anywhere near 4inches in the rear and 2 in the front….pretty keen for 2 at the rear and 1 at the front 🤞

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate the feedback! Hopefully the suspension will turn out the way you hope for. I reckon with those modifications it would keep the height down a bit. I've found it to be good suspension (after all the adjustments and replacements). Cheers.

[@kylepotter9054]

Great Info mate, love your videos.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate it 👍

[@lukehutchinson6754]

Great review and knowledge Nath. If you manage any fixes for what you have gone through it would make a great follow-up episode. Keep up the amazing quality of your channel. Cheers 🍺🍻

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate the feedback. I'll be sure to keep everyone updated with some of the fixes (if I can sort them out 😂). Cheers mate, Nathan.

[@snoordman4831]

You made me laugh at the end there, good to see you are human and had to go over it a couple of times 😁.. great video as always mate! Cheers Nathan 🤙🏼

[@XploringOz]

Haha, there are many... many takes making videos like this 😂 Thanks mate, hope you are doing well 👍

[@castlelowanna8626]

Thanks Nathan, great vid again. I am just now experiencing the same issue you had with your ARB suspension. When I collected it they mentioned there was 40psi in the bags for air testing thats why it sat up so high and that when I get home you can just let it out and it should sit right. When I got home there was only 5psi. Sits super high at the rear and rakes forward. I have my 500km checkup coming soon so will get them to watch this and explain why it sits like it does.

[@XploringOz]

Hmm, yeah that's a little poor in regards to the statement from ARB regarding the pressures. They ought to have known that this kit sits high. I will say now, I've had my front suspension wound right up to help add a little extra and given the extra weight in the rear, it sits nicely now, but it has taken some mucking around to finally get right...

[@offroadcrusader]

Hey mate, good to hear about your shortcomings with the 200 Cruiser. Honest feedback is always helpful, and gives a good contrast to all the positive things you mention in your other videos. For your rear shock guards, the new ones (which it looks like you have) are a revised version with a different clip, and shouldn't cause you any further issues. However being plastic, they are still suceptable to degradation over time and consistent peppering from stones. Its because of this that I installed the Kaon rear shock guards on my 200. Super strong, easy to install, and allow you to also keep your BP51 plastic shock guards as an extra line of protection. Would highly recommend them, Kaon are a great partner of the show and are an amazing Australian company to deal with!

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate the feedback. I hope that it can provide some realistic expectations to those who have or plan on buying/modifying their cruiser. Yeah, you're right they are the new type design. This came with the new shocks after the replacement. My faith is running low after seeing the previous plastic guards fall apart, but we'll see how we go. Yes, Kaon guards are definitely on my list, I like the products that they make and I'm sure they'll fit the cruiser nicely. Looking forward to watching the video to come with your family and the mighty 200 series! Cheers, Nathan.

[@WomBattle]

Great vid! Some great info for a fellow 200 series owner. Thanks!

[@XploringOz]

Awesome, glad to hear you enjoyed it. Thanks.

[@insaneitchy]

Voltage drops in my experience (assuming it was 12V from the start), are related to: 1. Check the earth points for equipment on that circuit - if it fills with dust or rattles loose or even worse liquid with dust/dirt it will drop voltages as its like sticking a big resistor in series with the battery. 2. Cable joins especially to distribution points/panels - same reason as 1 and 3. cable break/cut and short circuit to the body of the vehicle. Had the fuel pump issue before on the80 series - it had no obvious fuel leaks in the piping so that left the hand pump itself being the issue. replaced it with a new hand pump/primer issue gone. Added a bullbar and winch to the new 200 to replace the 80 - i use an inline screw in/screw out switch which was recommended due to its reliability. The truck did get a KDSS lean of 28mm with the weight change, but undoing the valves raising the rear left and resealing ater lifting to 170mm got it 10mm lean which is acceptable. You can get it smaller with a workshop car lift and avoid spacers.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, I appreciate some of the suggestions here. I'll definitely look into it. A few people here have mentioned the fuel primer part being replaced, so I'll definitely consider purchasing a new one and seeing if that makes a difference. This issue is probably the most frustrating at the moment. Thanks for the heads up with he KDSS lean too. I'll probably end up getting some slightly higher rate rear springs for the cruiser soon anyway and I'll see if I can get the lean sorted at the same time. Cheers, Nathan.

[@Stannos_Adventures]

Hi Nathan, I'm a new 200 series owner and watching all your episodes which i thank you for. What rotors and pads did you choose and would you choose the same again?

[@anthonyconway180]

Hi Nathan Thanks for the honesty and comments my 2014 GX 186 000 ks has been overall very reliable rear temp sensor on intercooler shot and relay from subtank shot ( not ideal before crossing the Tanamai) replaced in Broome. King springs and Koni heavy track raid, rear airbags have been awesome since 85000 ks, You can purchase rear shock guards- Stainless steel from Kaon industries here in Vict should solve your problem. I’ve traveled most of oz on factory fuel filter changed regularly and spares never a problem maybe bypass secondary filter for awhile and see if any difference.Cheers Ant.

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, thanks for sharing. I'm glad to hear that you have managed to get around with only minor issues, it sure is comforting. I too have been looking at the shocks guards and is something that I'm definitely sure will be purchase in the future. Yes, fuel filters are something I also change frequently and keep spares of, the cruisers are known to have sensitive filters. Cheers, Nathan.

[@ianfoster4164]

Excellent video Nathan, I had a similar fuel issue with my Dmax and reported it numerous times. Found there was an air leak between the tank and the 30 micron primary filter ( self diagnosed) retightened all of the hose clamps 👍. Ian

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate 👍 Hmm, yeah I'll check this connections again and probably end up replacing the primer, sounds like this could be a potential issue too. Cheers.

[@8408er]

Had the same problem with engine cut out after a few seconds running. Found my fuel pre-filter has a small amount of air trapped inside. Only found it after turning filter upside down and saw the bubble in the glass. Removed bubble and problem solved. Excellent video as always.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, I'll check this out and see if I can get any air bubbles out. Would be happy if it is just a simple problem like this 👍 Cheers, Nathan.

[@lukebryce5097]

Great vid mate thanks for sharing 👍

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate the comment 👍

[@steamy38]

Love your videos. I am interested in the Donaldson cyclone. Did you have to make a reducing sleeve to fit to your raised air intake? If so what did you use? The second thing is how you were able to mount your number plate on the tail gate when having a swing out wheel carrier. cheers Jeff

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, so no I didn't have to adapt a sleeve. This particular product fits perfectly onto the Safari ARMAX snorkel without any reducers. The exact part I used was ebay.us/x7socf. I have heard that you would need reducer for the smaller Safari snorkels (not ARMAX). For the number plates, I just used a piece of white aluminium composite material to extend the bracket to the left. I then offset the number plate on this bracket, which require a slight bend in the number plates. It has been working well and still comply with ADR's being visible from the rear of the vehicle. If you want a few pictures, send a message through my Facebook and I can forward through some better pics. Cheers, Nathan.

[@jebw]

Good summary Nathan. I'd check the battery and mating surfaces in the remote control to see if this effects your door opening and starting. With the low voltage to your rear accessories check the main fuse or circuit breaker. I've seen many of the inline fuse holders severely damaged by heat of poor connections that would have provided partial voltages to their load when faulty.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate. So I have changed the batteries in the remote a few times to try and sort the issue, with no joy just yet. Thanks for suggestion with the connections, I'l definitely look into it. The wiring and positioning of the cabling for these accessories makes it so hard to access in my vehicle, but I'll sure give it a go. Cheers, Nathan.

[@neilocoop]

Loved the introduction :)

[@XploringOz]

Haha, thanks mate 👍

[@ccmogs5757]

Good honest no BS review , nice one mate :)

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it. Cheers, Nathan.

[@slowboat6021]

thanks for sharing Nathan, few things in life are perfect...

[@XploringOz]

No problems mate, glad you enjoyed it 👍 Amen to that.

[@user-cq7nm9cn4m]

Hi Nathan, great videos - all well presented and informative. Did you ever resolve your fuel starvation issue? I appear to have the same issue on my 2013 LC200.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate it. It turns out there was an air leak in my secondary fuel filter. Once this was fixed up, all good to go 👍

[@user-cq7nm9cn4m]

Thank you for sharing.

[@SarahandKeelanTravels]

Epic video mate, well said and you're right! a lot of good positive reviews on KZbin not many showing the negatives! cheers

[@XploringOz]

Cheers guys! Keep up the great work with your channel, been following for sometime now. You guys are doing great. Looking forward to finally releasing the unveiling of our new van too... when we finally get it!

[@janithperumathanthri7225]

The suspension stuff is gold. Was looking to get a GVM upgrade with ARB. Might rethink that.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, sure wasn't gold for me at the time 😂 Glad it could be of use though. Cheers, Nathan.

[@rhyswatkins9040]

Great video mate. With the starting issue, I’d check hoses and filter size on secondary fuel filter. 2 micron filters have been known to be too restrictive in some applications and some kits use undersized hose. This can be alleviated when the hose heats causing expansion which would explain it only being an issue on cold start. I would bypass the secondary fuel filter entirely to test.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, good suggestion. Bypassing the secondary filter is something that I haven't done yet and something I'll definitely try. Be interesting to see how this goes. Cheers, Nathan.

[@tonyf7997]

Rhys - 100% mate- I was told to dump the 2m and us a 30 to alleviate any potential issues ..

[@darshparmar7679]

I had success with rear main seal using leak stop,done with a new oil change didn’t work right away took about a week of freeway driving to seal ,great vid.

[@XploringOz]

Cheers mate, I'll keep this in mind if is starts to get worse! Cheers.

[@josedarrylalano8356]

Great video Nathan, awesome information!! I’ve been wanting to know if you can adjust the height of a lift, and, you’ve just told me! I actually like the stance of your cruiser. Great work mate! Keep your channel going!

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it. For sure, you definitely can adjust the fronts, some stockist and dealers just don't like what they don't know... Cheers mate 👍

[@josedarrylalano8356]

@@XploringOz Check with Kaon for your rear shock protection.

[@josedarrylalano8356]

@@XploringOz kzbin.info/www/bejne/mp2QaKd7ZdOUqZY

[@XploringOz]

@@josedarrylalano8356 For sure, these are on the radar for a future mod. Cheers.

[@iguanagoat799]

Your secondary fuel filter is causing a pressure drop between your tank and pump causing the motor to cut out. This is one of the issues with running a secondary fuel filter and why you shouldn't (apart from it's a waste of money and you don't need it). The fuel system on the LC200s use a pump in the engine bay to pull fuel from the tank, through the filters and to the injectors, rather than having a an in-tank pump pushing fuel to the front.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks for the advice mate, I'll definitely be isolating the secondary filter to see if this is what causing the issue. Cheers, Nathan.

[@danielschneke2376]

Absolutely correct there! Secondary fuel filter for those vehicles is absolutely unnecessary. The OEM fuel filter is already specified to the contamination levels the injector system can safely take. For pre and final filter setups you would want the second stage on the pressure side or post transfer pump. 👍

[@holgermuller2987]

G’day there is a certain thing to say about secondary or pre diesel fuel filters. 👍 you are right no need a secondary fuel filter in Tokio city! Diesel is clean as it comes from the tap. Anywhere else the factory pre filter are insufficient that at least my 40 over years experiences. And yes we fit to all our industrial Diesel engines aftermarket water separator/filter of high quality. Having fitted thousands of such systems in our machines various types depending on the main filtration system installed and here I would say the original Toyota main fuel filter is a big joke, much to small for a 200 kw engine. We fit std to 100kw engines 10 times the filter size and have upfront large water separator with 2 ltr pre filters. No any issue with gung Diesel. On larger industrial diesel engines we fit a hydac system which cost approximately. 2.5 k AUD. Cheap compared to the injector price (4K ea) for this engines which would last only 1 year without such pre filter. So horses for corses…. Cheers

[@iguanagoat799]

@@holgermuller2987 Each to their own and you've had your own experiences. I have never had an issue, and I have never heard of anyone having a problem using the factory Toyota fuel filters (alone, without a secondary filter). Toyota spends billions of dollars on R&D and testing, and the 1VD-FTV has been in use all over the world (including developing nations with horrible fuel quality) for 15 years. The stock fuel filter on the LC200 is specified to filter at 4 microns, and has a water/fuel seperator already.

[@iguanagoat799]

@@XploringOz Will be interested to see how you go - hopefully it solves it for you. I've seen the exact symptom before and it turned out to be the secondary filter. The issue is that the fuel pump is specced for factory flow resistance (at 4 microns through a single filter). When you stick a secondary (probably 2 micron) filter into the equation, the pressure required to pull fuel through both is now significantly higher. This can cause additional wear on your fuel pump, and also pressure drops between filters or even collapsing fuel hoses depending on what type has been used.

[@Moon222]

Thanks for this video. At this point, I would rather get a brand new stock offroad vehicle, rather than overland with all these issues and uneasiness.

[@XploringOz]

Still a great vehicle 💪

[@overlandphotography]

Very informative, Nathan. Thanks for sharing and I'm sure there will be others that will benefit from it. I've got a similar issue with my auxiliary battery draining (virtually overnight), even when I switch items off such as the dash c ). My 200 is about to turn 2 years old in a couple of weeks and already I'm looking at changing the battery (any recommendations on a new one ?) . I'm waiting to get to an area where there is a reputable auto electrician to look at it. Also in a separate issue, I have a little too much weight over my rear axle. I'm pretty sure I can overcome that by ditching some of the unnecessary tools I'm carrying. Thanks again for sharing.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks Jim. It would seem that a few people are suffering from a few issues similar to the ones I mentioned here. I hear where you are coming from with the batteries, I too have had to replace my starter battery due to a constant load a little premature. In regards to advice for a secondary battery, well I am actually going to be releasing a video very soon in relation to a new option I am trying out. (....Lithium...). Although I'll be talking about the benefits and how it all works, I'll definitely be conducting long term reviews down the track to show how it performs. Further, it's not one of the super expensive modifications, I specifically choose one of the cheaper options on the market (relative for Lithium). Hopefully I'll get this video out in a week or two. Yes, the weights are hard. Definitely something I too have to work towards. Cheers, Nathan.

[@overlandphotography]

@@XploringOz .... very much looking forward to that video Nathan. Take care mate

[@pen1910]

love the honesty .. vid great as usual

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate 👍

[@crispyinasia61]

A good vid Nathan. Did you say you have 3 fuse blocks around the car, has that just come about because of the location of various "pods" of gear, and so the necessity to make sure everything is covered as it should be?

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate. So I have a couple, one in the engine bay and one in the rear drawer system. Yes, this was just to power the main areas and to have easy ability to add on further modifications in the future without having to run entire new (long) lines. Cheers, Nathan.

[@tremorflow3614]

Great video as always! Have just acquired a 200 a few months the ago and love your videos. I have noticed with my key fob that is I park in certain places, something interferes with the fob or system in the car. Must be radio interference at those locations for me because I can go back there and it happens. Anywhere else at my house, no issues ever. My mothers subaru also, when we goto our local leagues club, her fob won't work. But never an issue anywhere else. I have a catch can provent 200 and also the fuel manager pre filter but am yet to install them. If you do find that they are the cause of the issues I am sure you will make a video on that. It's 50/50 for me to fit them, so many tell me not to. Have them both on a shelf but I have fitted a uni filter.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it! Interesting to hear you say that. From what I'm hearing here in the comment it appears that the Toyota frequency might be vulnerable to other frequency's from external devices and aftermarket modifications. Quite frustrating if this is the case and wondering whether it would be possible to change the frequency all together? Hmm, I hear you there. There are allot of reviews positive and negative on these accessories. In the end, the fitment or lack of will not harm your engine in the long run, they just provide benefits like longer intervals between intakes cleans and shorter intervals between fuel filter changes. Cheers, Nathan.

[@sarinsarin7898]

i own a 120 prado petrol v6 and has done 308,000 k's. The only issue i have had with it (so far) is the ABS module shit itself, i wacked in a used one from a diesel and not a problem since. I have been offroad abit with it, also towing boat and camper. The only thing i have to pay for is fuel. I do regular service and thats it. I have set it up now for just touring so am very happy with it.

[@montegofd3s]

Another great video, thanks for sharing all that you do. Can I ask, what is the recommended distance ARB is suggesting from the wheel centers to the wheel arch? I am also running BP51s and wonder if my dissatisfaction with ride quality stems from them not being set properly for the shock valving. I am also running a ARB bumper, winch, and X31 battery, but I am only set at the standard preload of 20mm. One the rear guards, I bought BudBuilt rear shock guards and threw the plastic ones in the trash. I have been happy with the budbuit product so far, and they are quite beefy.

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, so I'm kicking myself I didn't record the measurements here and can't remember exactly what this was now. However I did measure my threads on the front shocks and had about 31mm exposed. So this might give a little idea to how wound up my front's are. Thanks for the tip on the rear shocks guards, I'll look into these 👍 Cheers

[@montegofd3s]

@@XploringOz Awesome, thank you. Also on the guards, I met someone the other day that said they had pretty good luck with Kaon guards as well. I believe they would be a lot more local for you.

[@XploringOz]

@@montegofd3s Yes, I have seen the Kaon guards and something I'm keeping my eye on for a future purchase 👀 Cheers 👍

[@michaelchester6239]

Cheers for your vids mate, awesome content, not sure if it’s been mentioned but Great Off-Road Adventures had same fuel issue while on his Kimberley trip. Does a good diagnosis of his issue which is worth a watch S3 Ep2. Ended up a missing oring on the secondary fuel filter. But worth a watch for some other idea’s. Hope you resolve the issue.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you are still enjoying them 👍 Yes, actually Graham form ORA actually commented himself. Some good points there and I'll see what I can use to help diagnosis. Cheers, Nathan.

[@ianmoone2359]

Really good video, well presented, organised, and not full of yourself like so many others I won’t mention. Electrical is becoming an issue with late model Toyotas due to the Canbus system unfortunately. The days of just splicing in to pick up power for accessories from an existing is over unfortunately. The electrical system is computer monitored to detect any extra current draw beyond what’s expected within the software programming of the Canbus system. Start piggy backing accessories off the monitored circuits and the computer will respond by lowering voltages to protect systems like Alternator etc. There are specific patch cables now days to make things draw within the programmed perameters (ie to fool the computer into accepting the new out of program current draws. With so many electrical systems these days this was inevitable. Example. Some vehicles (not Toyotas but for eg Ford Rangers as but one example) the steering is no longer hydraulic. It’s electrical connection now between steering wheel and front wheels. You cannot afford to have the steering and lane keep assist etc go on the fritz coz some idiot picked up power for spotlights by splicing into a mission critical system like steering. The manufacturers make the electrical system to control radar, cameras, braking, etc ie safety systems that need to be reliable. A LOT of the electrical accessories that get added these days, with inverters, dcdc chargers, dual batteries, winches, solar panels, induction cook tops, coffee makers, 2 way radios, spot lights, light bars, extra cameras, water pumps, etc etc, it’s the equivalent of a small nuclear power station FFS & people wonder why the ECU computer monitoring and controlling all this stuff tears it’s hair out and gives up and goes on the fritz. 🙄 Any Auto sparky these days whos not a computer nerd diagnostician and programmer isn’t in the race to start monkeying with the 12Volt system on these new modern cars. Heck just spotlights wiring requires a special patch because headlights on and hi lo beam dip etc is all automated and computer controlled. Splice into the high beam circuit to power your spotlights and you’ll get a dash warning along with all lights off, that says “lighting error, take to dealer”. So how do you take it to the dealer in the dark with no lights when the dealers closed anyway? On a tilt tray is how! 🙄 So unless you have a scan tool to clear the codes and keep your spotlights switched off your probably not going anywhere. It’s got to the point of being bloody ridiculous to be honest. My 2C

[@XploringOz]

I agree with you here mate! There are soo many electronics on vehicles these days, its crazy. Further to that, like you mentioned people want to take absolutely everything with them on their trips (I'm somewhat guilty of this sometimes). Gone are the days of a simple battery to splice from under the bonnet, however this is the compromise we make to satisfy those who don't modify there vehicles for off-road use. People who enjoy the extreme comforts and convenience of a computer doing everything for them all the time. I guess it's just one of those things that we are going to have to get used to and adapt to though.... won't be disappearing anytime soon. Cheers, Nathan.

[@dermauser6167]

Hi Nathan, straight away your fuel starvation issues were similar to an issue we had. After much stuffing around and a trial removal I eventually got rid of the aftermarket fuel pre-filter and haven’t had an issue since. No matter what I did or tried the vehicle just didn’t like an aftermarket fuel pre-filter.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, seems like this has been a common suggestion. Definitely something I'll look into and I'll try to isolate the secondary filter to see how it performs. Strange how it perform well for 40000km's though. Thanks mate, Nathan.

[@nanqin8757]

For the KDSS adjustment, first step is lift your cruiser up, and lose the two bolts one and half turns beside KDSS pressure accumulator(only one half turn, no loosen absolute avoid oil leak), second drop down the cruiser at flat/level ground and another guys let the left and right side as same height(maybe use jack/bar or some else ), after tie the tension for the two bolt when cruiser same height between passenger and driver side,

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, yes unfortunately I have tried this to no success. Although it helped a little bit, there is still a bit of a lean to the drivers side. Cheers, Nathan.

[@nanqin8757]

​@@XploringOz Nathan, I came from China also the LC200 owner, I think the root cause is KDSS oil pressure or quantity not correct after your rose carbody or long km driving. so Could u tell me you have charged or refilled/flush/ and calibrated pressure of KDSS hydraulic oil after your rose 2 inches carbody by BP51( in your video you told us ), Your can applied 5Mpa kdss oil pressure by pump through two pipe line connection after loosen charge line 2 bottom nuts 3 turns, and also loosen 2-2.5 turns for balance pressure bolt under accumulator, then release the nuts at top of accumulator/front sway bar cylinder/rear cylinder nuts one by one to flush oil/exhaust air, and after lock/tie 2 charge line bottom nuts which your had loosen 3 turns before which operation under KDSS system hydraulic oil pressure to keep 2.8-3.0 Mpa(around 400psi), so after that charge pump and drop cruiser at flat/level ground and re-lock 2 balance nuts under accumulator. I think will be balance after flush/adjustment oil pressure.

[@XploringOz]

@@nanqin8757 Thanks mate. This is great advice and something that I wasn't aware of previously. Given the lack of publicly available information regarding modifications to the KDSS system, it was something I hadn't done. I will definitely make some inquiry and see whether I can get the system checked over and to the correct pressure. I'll be sure to follow up with any success. Cheers, Nathan.

[@peterj1376]

Another informative and open chat, thanks Nathan. Seems sometimes it's just luck receiving the right information from the sales person firstly on down to the individual you get who actually does the work on the vehicle as to what sort of outcome is achieved, One of the places you mentioned as giving good service to you were appalling with me and I left thinking I wouldn't let them near my car so there you go, experiences can be different. Anything you get done to a vehicle that you can't do yourself is always a bit of a leap of faith and you just hope they do a good job. I am forced to change my suspension and get a GVM upgrade (which I would prefer not to) just to stay safe and legal towing a very small van and like you although my car is slightly modified no one would look at it and say it's over the top. A lot of people look at Land Cruisers and think you can load them up and tow anything but that is far from the truth. Cheers, Peter J

[@XploringOz]

Thanks Peter, I agree with the experience with customer service is definitely a huge part of how we feel about leaving our vehicles with fitters. It's interesting to hear that you have had a bad experience with one of those companies, but I guess this happens in this industry. I feel like a lot of companies these days don't have that care or pride in their work anymore and it's hard to find someone that will treat your vehicle like their own. I hope you can manage to get your suspension issue sorted easily enough. Thanks again, Nathan.

[@lyndenwatson5959]

Great video, thank you mate.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate 👍

[@sandracinalli6519]

That was a very informative video Nathan. Thanks. As a single female and not mechanically minded, I'm forever looking at videos about my 2018 GXL 200 series that explain things in such a way I'd understand them, and you did just that. I especially find your recommendations helpful. I rely heavily on the knowledge and recommendations of others, such as yourself. Thanks

[@XploringOz]

Awesome, thanks for the feedback Sandra. I'm glad my video could help somewhat as this is the main motivator behind creating them! Cheers 🙏

[@bradleycosway7931]

Another great video, thank you. Did you get to the bottom of the remote deciding not to work occasionally? About every two weeks mine won't unlock and I need to use the manual key to access the vehicle, it still starts but then the alarm goes off for about 30 seconds, and of course the remote always works at the mechanics, any ideas?

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, unfortunately still haven't figured out this issue just yet... 🤷‍♂️ It's something that I've come to learn to live with at the moment. I honestly can't detect any patterns with it working / not working... Cheers, Nathan.

[@craigtomkinson2837]

Lovely review

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate 👍

[@markoantonijevic5430]

Hey man great informative video, sorry that im unable to give any info on them issues, and i feel like the ones at the start with the intercooler and brakes im starting to have them problems aswel. Do you ever get a center diff lock flashing problem? Ive tried searching almost everywhere and asked some people that own a 200. It seems to occur either randomly the next morning after it rained, or when i put the car in Low 4 for abit, either the next day or a couple days later the center diff lock starts flashing and its unable to go into Low 4 without driving maybe 3-5km then turning the car off and back on and its fine.

[@XploringOz]

Cheers mate. In regards to your issue, the centre diff lock flashing is a very generic code and could mean so many different things. It seems minor though if it's intermittent and not putting the vehicle into limp mode. Best thing is get a mechanic to read the historic codes and they'll be able to point you in the right direction 👍

[@markoantonijevic5430]

@@XploringOz Thanks man, yeah its only a minor issue but annoying sometimes, ill try the mechanics thank you

[@babajayp]

I had the same issue where remote was not working properly. Sometimes it works, sometimes there's lag, especially when trying to lock vehicle. For me the problem was the aftermarket led license plate bulbs. Changed it back to yellow stock bulbs, and no issues anymore. If you want to diagnose if lighting might be the issue, try disabling the comfort lights option in vehicle lighting settings that stay on for 30 secs once you turn off the engine and lock. Then afterwards, try the remote or door handle to see if there is any lag or delay. Good luck, hopefully this helped.

[@babajayp]

Worst case if you have too much lighting to diagnose, leaving that comfort auto lights system off in vehicle settings should hopefully make your life much better. I almost sold the LC because the delay was driving me nuts. Looking like a fool touching your door multiple times trying to lock was not acceptable for me.

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, thanks for this suggestion. this is something I haven't tried yet. I'll definitely look into this when I get some free time. It's still doing this years on 🤦‍♂️ Almost become the new norm now ...

[@watpat4930]

A few things, check to make sure you haven’t lost the small O ring in the secondary filter as this happened to my previous V8 Troopy. I also have the electrical issue with the key fob and have replaced batteries in them etc so if you find the solution I’d love to know! And finally, despite the issues with the BP51, how do you find the ride quality especially when it was new and unloaded? Another great video btw 👍👍

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed the video! A few people have mentioned the issue with the O ring now, something I'll definitely check. Yes, the key fob is a frustrating issue, I'll be sure to report back if I get any success in diagnosing it. To be honest the BP51 suspension is holding up well and I find it works fairly well. It's not high performance racing shock, but it works well and provides a comfortable ride. The adjustability is helpful and does make a big difference, so this helps to get a great smooth ride. When it was unloaded there is no doubt it was harsher, but no where near as bad as I expected. I would definitely not go any lower than 400kg rear constants that for sure. Cheers, Nathan.

[@barry.m9681]

Hi I don’t own a land cruiser but have been following you for a long time now. I have always found your stuff very interesting. You comes across as someone who is fairly switched on . From how you research and go about things. I have always wondered what you do for a living and what your back ground is in As with the electrical low voltage issues check all the ground wires , that is something that most people overlook

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoy the channel! I do try and research and learn everything I can about a topic before reporting on it. It's not always perfect, but hopefully its enough to help people make an educated decision for their own vehicles and setups. Leaving school I went to Uni for a couple of years and study Accounting/Finance, however soon realised this wasn't for me 😂 finally ended up in local Government where I've been for the last 10 years or so. Cheers, Nathan.

[@PhilTaylorPhotog]

Great vid Nathan. I have the BP51's and I'm at 60K of use. The only issues I've seen are the flimsy plastic guards...someone really needs to do a good aftermarket solution for them. I didn't fit new UCAs despite the obvious reasons to. So far, I've had no issues, but will watch the tyre wear. What DIY materials would you take on larger trips in case of the CV boot issues? I've seen a few similar cases on 200's, and would love to be prepared for that one.

[@dustyfarmer]

Try wrapping several layers of Gladwrap around the broken boot to keep dirt & water out.

[@XploringOz]

Glad to hear that you have had a relatively good experience with them so far, definitely encouraging. Kaon do some great aftermarket solutions for the rear shocks. Nice solid SS protective guards. Hmm, as @Dusty Farmer said, you could try wrapping them up, but this is only going to be a temporary fix. Personally, if you had the space and $$ I'd be carrying a spare joint around if you are heading remote. Cheers 👍

[@Michael_Mears]

Nathan, is there a non-return valve in the fuel filter housing? At one point I had a very tiny bit of chrome flake or something get stuck in the non-return valve in my ute (not a Toyota) and it would never seal. It was too small to see with the naked eye and was the same colour as the aluminium housing. the vehicle would start fine after the prime, and run well, but let it sit for a few hours and no good. Should your hand primer pump up with more resistance until it's very solid? Or does it just keep on pumping, never changing much? That's about all i can think of for now.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks for your suggestions mate. I'll look into whether there is a non-return valve. Im sure there would be at some point in the system. The primer of the pump does stiffen up if you keep pumping, I have found it doesn't need to be ultra tight to start the vehicle though. Thanks again, I'll report back with how I go. Cheers, Nathan.

[@Susieandchris]

Great video as usual . I try and do everything myself now as just cannot trust anyone to do the right thing . I see second generation lithium is out where you do not need a bcdc and charge off alternator and under bonnet . That will be a game changer.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate it. Yes, well I actually do have a video planned very soon for some new battery options. Might not be what you've mentioned, but still exciting to try out. Cheers.

[@Normacfan]

Did you replace the insulator switch for the winch or are you just not using one now. Great video once again.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate that. So no, I didn't replace it, I just run the winch connected straight to the battery now. No dramas thus far. Chees, Nathan.

[@davemorris8365]

Hi Ive had similar issues with the engine cutting out i found that by disconnecting the outlet of the factory filter and priming both filters into a container i can see when all the air is out of the system . Ive also added a primer to the prefilter but ran into clearance issues between the primer and the bonnet . Cheers Dave

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate the feedback here. I'll have a look into this, hopefully it's something I can get sorted as it's definitely one off the more frustrating issues at the moment. Cheers, Nathan.

[@videowsatcher]

Wrangler Unlimited I used to own (3.6 Penstar V6); in year 4, major main rear oil seal leak (under 70,000 km). Also under warranty had my front suspension system redone; it was creaking and squeaking and turns out it was literally starting to fall apart (poor factory fit). Also, TC/SC would randomly cut out sometimes off road and the roof would leak

[@muddymaker3721]

I've owned Toyota Landcruisers all of my life, troopies and utes and they have taken me around Australia more times than I can remember. I have done the Gibb River road a number of times and traversed The Great Central Road numerous times. I have literally clocked up millions of kilometres across all of my vehicles. The only one that cost me an arm and a leg to own and run was my last cruiser I owned, a VDJ78R Troopy. Water pump failed at 50,000km. Then I started having problems with excessive oil consumption! I was in the middle of Queensland one year when in a rain storm my vehicle started playing up, the speedo stopped working, indicators stopped working and the engine started running rough and smoke started coming out of the dash. Then the next day it would all come good. I took it into Toyota and they could not recreate the problems. Within 6 months it started playing up again while I was in WA. It had some sort of electrical gremlin that no one could rectify. Then the V8 started running rough again and did not go away. Took it into a diesel specialist to where they diagnosed a number of faulty injectors and a buggered injector module, they recommended I change all of the injectors not just the buggered ones as well as the injector module. That little exercise cost me over $10,000 and it ht my hip pocket hard. Moral of the story is that no car is unbreakable or perfect and it really does come down to luck, but the good thing of owning a Toyota is its resale value.

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, thanks for sharing your experience and sorry to hear you had soo many issues with your VDJ78. I agree with you entirely, no vehicle is perfect and everything has potential issues. I guess we try and make educated decisions to reduce the chance of buying one of these vehicles and Toyota certainly do have a great average and long term track record. Cheers, Nathan.

[@bevanmauger1632]

In regards to your slight rear main leak, I too had a provent200 catch can, with a slightly weeping rear main oil leak and found by disconnecting the catch can the oil leak went away, don't know why filter was new and replaced no blockages in breather pipes but this fixed the problem, so in the end I fully removed it and had a tune put on my vehicle with an egr delete and have all signs of rear main weep disappear, just something for you to consider.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, yes something I'll consider. Interesting to hear the direct correlation that you have observed though. Food for thought. Cheers, Nathan

[@moto4x4adventure9]

Hey Nathan, Great content as always mate. At 130,000 kms for your own peace of mind I would at least get a cold start test done on your injectors. I would also spend the $900 to get your intake manifold cleaned. I would completely disconnect your secondary fuel filter for a while to rule that out. If you're concerned about deformed injector seats (usually only a Prado issue) you can get your oil tested pretty cheaply. For your remotes I would change to new batteries, though you may have done this already. All the best 👍

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, thanks for the tips. So I have tried a couple of these. I've already done an intake clean, about 25000km ago, so that should still be good and have changed the batteries in the remote, unfortunately not the issue. I will definitely try the secondary fuel filter bypass though, this could give a good indication as to whether this is the issue or not. Testing the oil is another good suggestion. Thanks again, Nathan.

[@berko79]

Great honest video... Also recommend 200 series owners carry 2 sets of jumper leads. On our lap i had to jump 3 200 series and required to use my jumper leads and theirs - I think they need 24v to crank (both batteries charged) so both batteries need to be jumped. Also seems its easy to drain the batteries which might be linked to what you mentioned in this video?

[@XploringOz]

Hmm good point. The 200 series do come out from factory with two batteries, however this are wired in parallel, not series. So it's still only 12V however, the two batteries together provide a little extra punch to get that motor turning over. Interesting to hear about the main batteries being drained easily and something that we all have to keep an eye on to prevent issues in the morning... Cheers, Nathan.

[@Michael_Mears]

Provent 200 catch can is what I've been using since 9,000km, now 33,000km. Before installing the Provent unit the DPF came on three times, but hasn't come on since, so that's 24,000km with no DPF burn. I think it's a testament to how much unnecessary gunk is kept out of the system. I drain about 50mL or so of oil and some water out at oil changes.

[@XploringOz]

That's definitely interesting to hear and glad that you have managed to get some benefits from this system!

[@tomrollings4233]

MY FAMILY AND I :) :) NOT MY FAMILY AND ME .... FLOOR MATS FIT GREAT ... VERY HAPPY ... THE LID ON THE FILTER MIGHT NEED TO BE REPLACED HAD THE ISSUE YOU MADE MY DAY WITH THOSE .... GREAT INFORMATIVE VIDEO AGAIN WELL DONE NATHAN ..

[@XploringOz]

Thanks Tom! Haha, grammar slipped up there 😂 A few people have mentioned the fuel primer/lid issue, so definitely something I'll look into for sure! Thanks mate, Nathan.

[@GetCampingOz]

For your current draw, start pulling fuses one by one until it goes back to 0. I had the same issue and found it that way. Also, make sure your sensor is in the correct position and no other cables are near it - assuming its a hall effect sensor? I would also be checking all your earths and crimped connections. To have low power just that once and then not have it again, it has to be a connection issue. Hope that helps :)

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate it. I'll definitely go through the fuses one by one and see if I can find that load. Earthing seems to be another popular topic brought up and something I'll also look into. Thanks again, Nathan.

[@Wilbargosh]

Nathan, Pro Touring Concepts have mentioned in one of their 200 chop series that a better quality starter battery is important. I guess the CPU could be detecting voltage irregularities and causing faults. Checking all the earth posts are tight and not corroded also helps. Regarding the suspension it sounds like ARB are loosing their platform of quality and reliability or the people they employ are not as skilled and customer focused as we expect.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, interesting point there, I'll have a look into this. I'll definitely be going through and checking everything in a little more detail now. Hmm, yeah, ARB might be getting a little too big for their own good to be honest. Cheers, Nathan.

[@danebentley7438]

Hi Nathan, I have just finished building my second LC200. Both of my Cruisers have had the issue of a constant draw on the start battery. At this stage, I have tracked it to my Redarc BCDC charger. I have a manual reset circuit breaker so I have isolated it and found that the draw stops. Also, I have previously had a dashcam interfere with my AM/FM radio signal, not sure if it could cause an issue with your remote locking??

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, I have a heard the BCDC might be the issue from a few comments now. In terms of the keyless issues, unfortunately I had the problems well before these were installed, so I'll still be searching for the issue there. Cheers.

[@shanebrowne2439]

Great vids. I always look forward to them truthful and informative. The key RF problems an be caused by the Inverter. Try fully isolating the DC side and see if issues goes away. I have had this problem in the van. It can interfere with most frequencies. Particularly if a budget inverter. Also make sure the inverter in earthed to the chassis. All inverters sold in oz should be CE certified and thus have a dedicated chassis earth terminal. This will also improve stray RF. As for parasitic drain. Your inverter will always draw current even if no AC load. I installed a 200 ampere combined circuit breaker/isolator on mine. This removed approx 200 milliamperes (0.2) of constant draw. Also your victron monitor will always be drawing current even when in power save mode with screen off. From a safety perspective I do hope you plug your AC appliances in with an inline portable Residual Current Device(Safety Switch). It may save your life on day. Do not assume that your inverter has built in RCD. cheers. Shane

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, so unfortunately the inverter hasn't been the causes of some of these issues. The inverter is a relatively new addition to the vehicle and these problems were present well and truely before it was fitted. There is no doubt that is some accessory that I've added, hard to diagnose the wireless issue when it's so intermittent... Thanks, mate appreciate the help 👍

[@dennisharvatin7191]

I have a 200 2014 VX, the only thing I’ve installed is a UHF & red arc brake controller, I have same issues, most time keyless entry and start work, then all of a sudden, car will not start, everything else works ie central locking works, put foot on brake, put button get all the reds but no start, and it doesn’t say “key not detected”, it just doesn’t start, try several times, then all of a sudden, it starts. Got me buggered . Any help would be appreciated Dennis

[@scottinwood]

Nathan, sound a bit silly, but replace those screw type hose clamps with the spring type as per original Toyota ones on your fuel lines, usually added with secondary filter. They allow fuel line to expand and contract as necessary without damaging fuel lines. Keep up the good video’s, very helpful. 👍

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, thanks for this tip. I'm still having issues with this system and this will be another thing to look into 🙏 Cheers, Nathan.

[@dalewilson8159]

Hi Nathan, I had a similar issue with dropping down to 3ish volts. My issue was the fuse was corroded and gave poor/no contact, however the fuse holder has one of those LED lights to indicate a blown fuse. The LED was passing just enough current along with the bad fuse connection to show up a low voltage rather than zero. I got some weird issues on the USB charges etc. Not sure if this helps or not! Electrical gremlins are the worst. I try to keep clear of the fuse blocks/holders with the indicator lights for this reason, but it was all I had at the time to install.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate the suggestion. It will definitely go back and check all of these connections and fuses. You are right though, they definitely are a huge pain! Interesting to hear how the LED issue played out, didn't think about that. Cheers, Nathan.

[@Deatomizer]

Refreshing to see someone give an honest Toyota update review. Not sure why others are so reluctant to share problems with theirs. Throughout the years I've known plenty of Toyota owners that have had major problems with their vehicles like my Camry with its problematic transmission and on the flip side I know people who have Fords with zero issues. At the end of the day, all manufacturers have their problems and are far from perfect. Don't forget Toyota's class-action lawsuit filed against them for the particulate filter issue they took years to fix but continued to sell the faulty motor.

[@XploringOz]

For sure, I hear you there. People are keen to cover up the short falls and promote the perfections to ensure people don't think they've made a mistake or wasted their money. I think we all know deep down that every vehicle and model has their issue, no point in hiding it. Still very happy with the overall performance of this vehicle. Cheers, Nathan.

[@holgermuller2987]

G’day Nathan, yep another very good one. Exact the information update I personally looked for. IOY… I have learned allot from you in a distance not able to drive my LC200 now for last 2 years sitting in the shed waiting to be taken out. What you experienced With your 200 I would put it into the box “normal subjects can happen”. Engine dies after start, ok that’s an annoying one, but may only a low fuel pressure problem and a safety shut down function from ecu. A well experienced diesel mechanic should be able to diagnose this easily. Electrics, parasite draw, is I guess a search and detect mission by an experienced el buff. I fixed such thing with good quality batt main switch on the 2nd battery. Sure el system modified and only 1 starter battery. See your manual isolator switch, guess was to cheap no IP rating and internal corroded or melt. 2 new batt isolator switch cost less then 1 hr in a workshop searching for the parasite in your el system. Ps having the same issue with my stock std forester, after 2 weeks battery is flat and or deeply depleted and dead. Great thanks for the info on the BP51, adjustments of spring setting and valving is very normal for what you load or not. The system needs experience and several goes to get it correct setted especial when your load variance is so much, unloaded, loaded, plus tow all weight with van on the back. There was 2 criterias for me to not choose in the beginning the BP51. Do I use the car empty as a 1. daily driver and 2. full loaded on trips and 3.with van? For me only 2 & 3, means I have to deal only with the 300kg ball weight add on. And as said, airbag men helper bags or better full air in the rear. I need more driving experience with my rig, then make a decision. You can come to this question again after your new van arrives, the tinny is on top and the Mercury 30hp outborder is on top of the van drawbar box!! Shock protection for the rear? Only HD aftermarket will do the job. Shitty plastic does not last and can be acknowledged from a mile away. Things I have not done yet, I am still collecting from you and little bit from others the infos. Greatest thing for me /us is that you share your experiences with the greatest passion and in such details that we all which are 100,000km behind you can learn from it. Thanks Nathan for all your vids and infos. One day I will come by Perth area and pay it back! Cheers

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate all the info here! I agree, all these issues are fairly 'normal' to some extent and could happen to anyone with any vehicle. I'll definitely get onto some of the suggestions that people have mentioned here in the comments regarding the fuel supply issues. There seems to be a few things that I can test and replace to see if I can get this issue sorted. It's definitely the most frustrating one thus far. Yes, the electrical draw although frustrating at least is it a very minor draw. Something that can be easily negated with my relatively small solar panel. Yes, the shock guards need to go, they never have been and never will be up to the task! I think some of the Kaon guards may be on order in the near future. I'm glad to be able to help and provide some information to others in the community with similar interested, after all this is why the channel was started! All the best, Nathan.

[@peterj5751]

Thanks for this video. As an owner with a 200 series and the same suspension set up I have also found the rake front to back is too much for my taste as set by ARB. Are you able to tell us what the measurement is from centre of the wheel hub to the guard on yours? I have the 17 inch rims so bottom of the rim won’t translate for me. Cheers.

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, apologies for the late reply. So my measurement sits around the 575mm mark. Hope that can help. Would be interested to hear what you're sitting at, at the moment? Cheers, Nathan.

[@peterj5751]

@@XploringOz hi Nathan and thanks for that. Mine sits at approx 560mm adjusted to the ARB recommended 20mm thread exposed with ARB bullbar, 12,000 pound winch and ARB underbody protection. I have been planning to get the ground lifted about 10 - 15mm so your measurements seem to confirm that. Cheers, Peter

[@XploringOz]

@@peterj5751 Yeah, sounds like a little more thread showing won't hurt your setup to get that little extra lift 👍

[@V8LC100]

I’m having the same issues with my BP51s. After many visits back to ARB, car still feels very twitchy and boat like that rocks from side to side after even the smallest of bumps. With the van on, it converts into white knuckle sway. Very disappointed with my dream car 2019 Sahara. Close to removing the suspension tbh. Also my Victron on my iTech under bonnet lithium draws -0.15amps with everything off. Can’t seem to figure out what is actually causing that. Have a dual ARB compressor and some 12v outlets, fridge etc.

[@doggies42]

Hi Nathan love your videos and just a follow up on your fuel filter issue as I have had this happen to me and how mine was resolved. My car is a Sahara 2011 model and I recently installed a Ryco Fuel filter through my mechanic as a extra bit of insurance when going outback and getting dirty fuel. A couple of days after installation the car would be hard to start or would start and cut out but once running for a couple of minutes the car ran fine or you would have to prime the fuel. This would only happen if the car was on a hill with the front facing down so the fuel was getting a air pocket, after a number of trips to the mechanic replacing fuel lines and fuel pump my mechanic then removed the ryco fuel filter which was brand new and the problem was fixed so he contacted ryco who said could not be the filter but sent a replacement filter which was installed by the mechanic and have never had a problem since. Ryco also wanted the faulty filter sent back for testing which goes to show that the new part is not always perfect.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, this is something I'll definitely look into. Interesting to hear that something so simple could cause the issue. I think I'll start with isolating the secondary filter to see if this makes a difference, should give a good indication straight up. Cheers, Nathan.

[@mickburns5546]

Hey Nathan. I’ve had problems in the past with the primer pump being the culprit. That’s the one on top of the factory fuel filter. Replaced it and problem went away. Just a suggestion. 😁

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, seems like this has been a popular idea for this issue and something I'll definitely look into. Cheers mate.

[@Sethjxl]

Replace the priming pump on the fuel filter. The membrane degrades over time and can leak air in. There is enough fuel in the system after the primer to allow it to run for a few seconds. Common issue with Patrols.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, I'll definitely look into this, especially since it has been mentioned a couple of times. Cheers, Nathan.

[@Sethjxl]

@@XploringOz no worries mate.

[@SUPERTRUCKER166]

Yep priming pump is leaking air, incredibly common with hand prime units in trucks. As for the key fob try replacing the battery’s within the fob itself, had similar issues with a mustang and turned out the button batteries were too low voltage causing detection failures

[@XploringOz]

@@SUPERTRUCKER166 Yeah, something I'll definitely look into, cheers. In terms of the battery issue in the remote, unfortunately this is something I have already tried without success, but I'll keep searching for a solution. Cheers.

[@trevanek]

Hello. Your videos speak a good experience. I have an older version of the LC200. Sometimes I also have a problem with the response of the wireless key. Here in the Czech Republic, it is difficult to make adjustments in terms of registration in the technical card. Nevertheless, something is possible and I still hesitate precisely because of the weight and other problems. We travel around the world and so far the factory setting has been enough for me almost everywhere. the fact is that you don't risk so much during the expedition, you also want to go home. My chassis is still a hydraulic original toyota. It works well, only the stroke could be bigger, so I'm looking for advice on such a setting.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed the video. Yes, the standard LC200 is a very capable and well made vehicle and doesn't really need any modifications. We are very lucky here in Australia as they are a very common vehicle so parts are available anywhere. We are generally safe to modify and hope that parts are available if needed around the country. All the best with your adventures! Cheers, Nathan.

[@great_offroad_adventures]

Hey mate. Few things, hope they help. 1. Fuel Draining back, mine was a missing seal in the secondary filter causing it to drain back over a night time, much like yours if driven multiple times during the day, it never faulted. 2. That “rear main seal leak” actually just looks like excess grease from the uni joints on front prop shaft flicking off…..I was the same as you, I thought ohh I got a rear main leak, but when we pulled the motor on mine it definitely wasn’t a rear main leak 👌🏻.

[@XploringOz]

Cheers mate, thanks for the suggestions. It would be awesome to get that fuel issue sorted that for sure. I'll check out those seals and some have also mentioned the primer could be at fault too, so I'll check this out too. Interesting to hear about the rear main issue, I can only hope that this is the case with my vehicle. I'll have this checked out on my next service. Cheers, Nathan.

[@great_offroad_adventures]

Yea mate - mine drove me up the wall and back in the remote Pilbara dying each morning 🤦🏻‍♂️….I had Broome Toyota put a new the fuel filter top hat aside for me ($130) which includes a new flow sensor and primer mechanism…in my case it wasn’t my issue (but I carry the parts as spares now, just in case), when I stripped the secondary filter I found the oring between filter and glass sight bowl was missing…..replaced and all fixed, in the hotel carpark in Broome none the less too 😂. 2x ways to check rear main, their is a small inspection plate in the bottom of the bell housing or alternatively their is a foam block that sides on the passenger side in an indent of the sump, this can be removed to allow access to torque converter & flex plate bolts, obviously if rear main is leaking flex plate will have oil on it and will be very easily visible through this opening.

[@dannyjansen6011]

@@great_offroad_adventures same issue I had was so frustrating.

[@XploringOz]

@@great_offroad_adventures I could imagine mate. It's definitely a frustrating issue and I can only imagine even more so when you are on a trip! Thanks for the tips I'll have both the top hat and the secondary filter checked. From all the comments it sounds like this issue will be fairly easy to fix, however its just a matter of diagnosing it! Thanks for the heads up with the rear main seal too. I've have some others mention that it could be a simple fix other than the rear seal, so I'll make sure I diagnose that correctly before pulling the vehicle apart. PS. Keep up the good work with your channel too, been following it for a lot longer than I've been making my own stuff. 👍 Cheers, Nathan.

[@beaver528]

A lot of vehicles ,Toyota's included ,need to be shut up AND locked before the computer goes to sleep and stops drawing current. Toyota technician alerted me to this and it solved my battery woes!

[@XploringOz]

Yes, this is true. Unfortunately this isn't the draw on my battery 🤔

[@rockbiterhd]

Very honest great review as for the 3 volt issue I would add extra earths and the winch I use a 200 amp circuit breaker and your power draw pull the fuses until it stops that will identify the circuit ? And you could fit a diode to the solar panels . Enjoy but I think I will keep my 100 series 👍🍻🍺

[@XploringOz]

Thanks for the suggestions mate, appreciate it. It seem like earthing is a popular suggestion and something Ill definitely look into. Thanks for the info, Nathan.

[@tuan7291]

Hi mate my 200 cruiser at idle missfireing I clean throttle body add catylac cleaner in my tank it gives p1238 code.Toyota said without proper compression check vehicle have a low compression i doubt too its got a air fuel ratio problem my mechanic said it will break all crank and internal parts. I want to change map filter and oxygen sensor and injector clean and check compression its my schedule stil vehicle is running when get time and money.

[@peterjacobs355]

Good video mate. My 2019 GXL has very similar mods to yours (inc Custom Installation drawers). I swapped out my HPD catch can for Provent, and them blew the rear main (40,000km) when towing my 3T van through the Bindoon hills. Toyota didn't want to know about warranty, but we did come to a compromise. $3k fix to get tranny out and replace seal, rocker cover gasket needed replacing as well. Catch can now in the bin and back to std!! Ultimate orginally did the accessory fuse box and harness - very disappointed with the workmanship. I put a 200AH DCS battery behind the fridge (Custom Installations made a special box for it during the drawer mfg) and Klarmann Automotive have redone the rear electrics with 1240 BCDC, Ergon DC hub, 2000W Victron Inverter. Much better workmanship.

[@XploringOz]

Interesting to hear your experience with the catch can. Running a standard setup might be something I look at doing, just to test out the results and see if it makes any difference. Also very interesting to hear about your wiring and workmanship. It's disappointing when you hear these stories, particularly after the potential a shop like this has with the products they fit. I have heard great things about the products coming out from Klarmann Automotive though Cheers, Nathan.

[@adrianghowitt3159]

Is there a genuine Toyota catch can? On suspension balance with KDSS lean maybe use load cell under each tyre to see if it is weight lean or suspension / kdss? Is hard start compression test time? Moist cylinders ?

[@XploringOz]

I don't believe there is a genuine Toyota catch can. Good idea with the load cell under each tyre, haven't done this before, would be interesting to see the differences. Hmm, could be. I'm hoping it's not that bigger of an issue at this point.

[@dustyfarmer]

Yes, there is a genuine Toyota catch can... But Toyota calls it an intercooler & E.G.R inlet tract and manifold.

[@alby1o1]

With your fuel issue you may have a really small air leak in one of the fittings allowing fuel to siphon back into the tank . This is a problem I had on a Series Landrover many years ago . A more recent problem I have had with my LC79 is a blocked fuel tank breather causing the tank to pull a vacuum as the fuel was used causing the blocked fuel filter light to come on .

[@XploringOz]

Hmm, I'll check this out for sure. Thanks mate 👍

[@boxheadmr]

Do you have a circuit breaker in your 12v? Had a similar issue and it was the circuit breaker that was the problem.

[@XploringOz]

Negative mate, no circuit breaker on this system. I'll have to keep trying other things for the time being 👍

[@ogaddcb]

What antenna'sdo you have mountedon your front bumper

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, there are both UHF antenna for a pair of GME XRS units. These are both the 2.1dB gain antennas. Cheers, Nathan.