LC200 | PROBLEMS & ISSUES | Not everything goes to plan -Mechanical-Electrical-Suspension 200 SERIES

[@VenidiciRobidici]

Great vid, Nathan! Thanks for relating your real-life running issues with us. Grateful to you for sharing these with us. I hope 2022 sees most of your probs fixed.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate the feedback and hopefully this can provide some comforting information to others with similar issues. Cheers, I'm sure 2022 will be an awesome year!

[@philg2468]

Great video! Suggestions: Remove the secondary fuel filter and see if problem goes away. There is a ~30mm O-ring between the filter and bowl which can easily get left out and is not supplied with replacement filters. If that doesn't work, replace top on factory filter as others have suggested. Oil leak. Might be a sign of increased crankcase pressure from the catch can. I'd disconnect the catch can and go back to the simple factory hose. Low voltage - probably poor earthing. Make a new earth point to the body in teh back of the car - remove paint, tap thread and install a new bolt covered in Vaseline, and hook everything up to that. Also make sure the factory body earth that comes off your cranking battery is in good nick and making good contact with the body. Parasitic loss from 2nd battery. Just pull fuses until it goes away to identify the problem. I found my inverter had small losses when switched off so replaced the fuse with a large circuit breaker which can be used as a switch.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, all good suggestions here and I think I will go through and try each one. Appreciate the time taken to send these through and I'll definitely report back with any progress made. Cheers, Nathan.

[@jimbo4838]

I've also got a small leak on my rear main seal and I have just clicked over 100,000. I've also thought if the catch can increases crank case pressure. Wish someone would look into it.

[@quinnmarsden9375]

Hi Phil G and Nathan. What Phil G sounds like a terrific suggestion with the fuel system. I'm an ex - HD fitter by trade and would like to see what you think, when we used to test radiators after refurbishment we used to do a leak test on them for the cores, top and bottom tank. Radiator test kit to pump up positive pressure from the fuel tank cap to the outlet of the secondary filter to the fuel pump. This would depend if you can get a test fuel cap with test fitting and to be able to plug the filter outlet hose to the injection pump. Do a pressure leak down test and check your gauge over a few minutes for pressure drop or do a visual of your fittings and washers. I don't know what the internals of the filter housing assembly looks like but it may determine if your injectors are leaking off thier seat. Phil G would this work? For Nathan

[@nathancurran8550]

Looking at the video I had a similar issue and after replacing the factory hose clamp with one from Bunnings that solved any further air locks. It took me a year of priming before I figured this out. Hope this helps🤙🏼

[@XploringOz]

@@nathancurran8550 Cheers mate, quick easy fix that is well worth a try! Thanks.

[@bigfishfishing-111]

Really enjoy your videos. No nonsense reviews and always very well explained. Your videos are my favourite on the KZbin platform. I was going to go the Bp51s in my Cruiser but got told the remote res Dobinsons Mrra were better. So far I've done 24k and all good so far. I dont do rough tracks, just sand driving and long highway kms on fishing trips. Electrical issues can screw with your head and even worse when proffesionals can't work it out. Hope you get to the bottom of it soon. Watching this was a good start to my morning.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, really appreciate the feedback and humbled to hear that you enjoy the channel so much! I'm glad to hear that you have managed to find a suspension system that works well for your vehicle. To be honest, the BP51 have performed reasonable well, it was just those issues of the fitting and lack of technicians knowledge on the product that left a bitter feeling. Electrical issues.... what a headache, luckily nothing too major for me, but always a little frustrating. Thanks again mate, Nathan.

[@maverickreviewed7894]

How does the Dobinson do on the rough parts of the highway (potholes, asphalt ridges and other imperfections) compared to stock setup?

[@gregtoth7534]

Thanks Nathan for your honesty in this vid. Many die hard fans would never admit to making mistakes with their builds. I too suffer from some similar issues that you have experienced here. It's refreshing to note I'm not the only one experiencing voltage loss as well as similar suspension issues. Thanks for making this video. it goes a long way in keeping us all motivated with our builds.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, always appreciate the comments. For sure, it can be hard admitting mistakes or problems, but I think it needs to be done. No one ever gets it perfect all the time and this build is a testament to this. Glad you are still enjoying the channel and glad I've been able to help somewhat. Cheers, Nathan.

[@adriankiraly5172]

Awesome honest video! Personally I wouldn't go overboard modifying such an expensive vehicle. After all Toyota spent tens of millions of dollars engineering the product, the aftermarket industry would never spend that sort of dollars testing their product. Personally I would buy an offroad camper and modifying it to suit my needs, eliminating tampering with the vehicle. Then again, it is personal choice. Thank you for the upload.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed the vid! Yeah, I hear you and I guess that's the best part of the car scene, everyone has their personal take on certain things and almost anything is possible. The Landcruiser is such a capable vehicle from factory, however I'm a big fan of tinkering with things, something it works well, other time not so much. All part of the fun and learning experience. Chees, Nathan.

[@insaneitchy]

Voltage drops in my experience (assuming it was 12V from the start), are related to: 1. Check the earth points for equipment on that circuit - if it fills with dust or rattles loose or even worse liquid with dust/dirt it will drop voltages as its like sticking a big resistor in series with the battery. 2. Cable joins especially to distribution points/panels - same reason as 1 and 3. cable break/cut and short circuit to the body of the vehicle. Had the fuel pump issue before on the80 series - it had no obvious fuel leaks in the piping so that left the hand pump itself being the issue. replaced it with a new hand pump/primer issue gone. Added a bullbar and winch to the new 200 to replace the 80 - i use an inline screw in/screw out switch which was recommended due to its reliability. The truck did get a KDSS lean of 28mm with the weight change, but undoing the valves raising the rear left and resealing ater lifting to 170mm got it 10mm lean which is acceptable. You can get it smaller with a workshop car lift and avoid spacers.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, I appreciate some of the suggestions here. I'll definitely look into it. A few people here have mentioned the fuel primer part being replaced, so I'll definitely consider purchasing a new one and seeing if that makes a difference. This issue is probably the most frustrating at the moment. Thanks for the heads up with he KDSS lean too. I'll probably end up getting some slightly higher rate rear springs for the cruiser soon anyway and I'll see if I can get the lean sorted at the same time. Cheers, Nathan.

[@chickmagpunk]

Hey Nate, great vid as always. Nice of you to share lessons learned with this vehicle. I've had a similar fueling issue, although mine just had a brief rough idle if it had sat for a few days. I changed out the fuel filter top housing (part with the primer pump) which was a $90 part change which fixed my problem. Best way to diagnose this (and eliminate any loose hoses near prefilter/filter) is to prime the fuel system using the hand pump as much as you can. Then shake and move all the hoses and fuel filter parts and listen for a hiss and try to figure out where the air is coming from.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing that. I'll look into the primer part as some others have mentioned this as well. Would be happy if this issue went away for $90 rather than some of the alternatives... Cheers.

[@ianmoone2359]

Really good video, well presented, organised, and not full of yourself like so many others I won’t mention. Electrical is becoming an issue with late model Toyotas due to the Canbus system unfortunately. The days of just splicing in to pick up power for accessories from an existing is over unfortunately. The electrical system is computer monitored to detect any extra current draw beyond what’s expected within the software programming of the Canbus system. Start piggy backing accessories off the monitored circuits and the computer will respond by lowering voltages to protect systems like Alternator etc. There are specific patch cables now days to make things draw within the programmed perameters (ie to fool the computer into accepting the new out of program current draws. With so many electrical systems these days this was inevitable. Example. Some vehicles (not Toyotas but for eg Ford Rangers as but one example) the steering is no longer hydraulic. It’s electrical connection now between steering wheel and front wheels. You cannot afford to have the steering and lane keep assist etc go on the fritz coz some idiot picked up power for spotlights by splicing into a mission critical system like steering. The manufacturers make the electrical system to control radar, cameras, braking, etc ie safety systems that need to be reliable. A LOT of the electrical accessories that get added these days, with inverters, dcdc chargers, dual batteries, winches, solar panels, induction cook tops, coffee makers, 2 way radios, spot lights, light bars, extra cameras, water pumps, etc etc, it’s the equivalent of a small nuclear power station FFS & people wonder why the ECU computer monitoring and controlling all this stuff tears it’s hair out and gives up and goes on the fritz. 🙄 Any Auto sparky these days whos not a computer nerd diagnostician and programmer isn’t in the race to start monkeying with the 12Volt system on these new modern cars. Heck just spotlights wiring requires a special patch because headlights on and hi lo beam dip etc is all automated and computer controlled. Splice into the high beam circuit to power your spotlights and you’ll get a dash warning along with all lights off, that says “lighting error, take to dealer”. So how do you take it to the dealer in the dark with no lights when the dealers closed anyway? On a tilt tray is how! 🙄 So unless you have a scan tool to clear the codes and keep your spotlights switched off your probably not going anywhere. It’s got to the point of being bloody ridiculous to be honest. My 2C

[@XploringOz]

I agree with you here mate! There are soo many electronics on vehicles these days, its crazy. Further to that, like you mentioned people want to take absolutely everything with them on their trips (I'm somewhat guilty of this sometimes). Gone are the days of a simple battery to splice from under the bonnet, however this is the compromise we make to satisfy those who don't modify there vehicles for off-road use. People who enjoy the extreme comforts and convenience of a computer doing everything for them all the time. I guess it's just one of those things that we are going to have to get used to and adapt to though.... won't be disappearing anytime soon. Cheers, Nathan.

[@anthonyconway180]

Hi Nathan Thanks for the honesty and comments my 2014 GX 186 000 ks has been overall very reliable rear temp sensor on intercooler shot and relay from subtank shot ( not ideal before crossing the Tanamai) replaced in Broome. King springs and Koni heavy track raid, rear airbags have been awesome since 85000 ks, You can purchase rear shock guards- Stainless steel from Kaon industries here in Vict should solve your problem. I’ve traveled most of oz on factory fuel filter changed regularly and spares never a problem maybe bypass secondary filter for awhile and see if any difference.Cheers Ant.

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, thanks for sharing. I'm glad to hear that you have managed to get around with only minor issues, it sure is comforting. I too have been looking at the shocks guards and is something that I'm definitely sure will be purchase in the future. Yes, fuel filters are something I also change frequently and keep spares of, the cruisers are known to have sensitive filters. Cheers, Nathan.

[@offroadcrusader]

Hey mate, good to hear about your shortcomings with the 200 Cruiser. Honest feedback is always helpful, and gives a good contrast to all the positive things you mention in your other videos. For your rear shock guards, the new ones (which it looks like you have) are a revised version with a different clip, and shouldn't cause you any further issues. However being plastic, they are still suceptable to degradation over time and consistent peppering from stones. Its because of this that I installed the Kaon rear shock guards on my 200. Super strong, easy to install, and allow you to also keep your BP51 plastic shock guards as an extra line of protection. Would highly recommend them, Kaon are a great partner of the show and are an amazing Australian company to deal with!

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate the feedback. I hope that it can provide some realistic expectations to those who have or plan on buying/modifying their cruiser. Yeah, you're right they are the new type design. This came with the new shocks after the replacement. My faith is running low after seeing the previous plastic guards fall apart, but we'll see how we go. Yes, Kaon guards are definitely on my list, I like the products that they make and I'm sure they'll fit the cruiser nicely. Looking forward to watching the video to come with your family and the mighty 200 series! Cheers, Nathan.

[@iguanagoat799]

Your secondary fuel filter is causing a pressure drop between your tank and pump causing the motor to cut out. This is one of the issues with running a secondary fuel filter and why you shouldn't (apart from it's a waste of money and you don't need it). The fuel system on the LC200s use a pump in the engine bay to pull fuel from the tank, through the filters and to the injectors, rather than having a an in-tank pump pushing fuel to the front.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks for the advice mate, I'll definitely be isolating the secondary filter to see if this is what causing the issue. Cheers, Nathan.

[@danielschneke2376]

Absolutely correct there! Secondary fuel filter for those vehicles is absolutely unnecessary. The OEM fuel filter is already specified to the contamination levels the injector system can safely take. For pre and final filter setups you would want the second stage on the pressure side or post transfer pump. 👍

[@holgermuller2987]

G’day there is a certain thing to say about secondary or pre diesel fuel filters. 👍 you are right no need a secondary fuel filter in Tokio city! Diesel is clean as it comes from the tap. Anywhere else the factory pre filter are insufficient that at least my 40 over years experiences. And yes we fit to all our industrial Diesel engines aftermarket water separator/filter of high quality. Having fitted thousands of such systems in our machines various types depending on the main filtration system installed and here I would say the original Toyota main fuel filter is a big joke, much to small for a 200 kw engine. We fit std to 100kw engines 10 times the filter size and have upfront large water separator with 2 ltr pre filters. No any issue with gung Diesel. On larger industrial diesel engines we fit a hydac system which cost approximately. 2.5 k AUD. Cheap compared to the injector price (4K ea) for this engines which would last only 1 year without such pre filter. So horses for corses…. Cheers

[@iguanagoat799]

@@holgermuller2987 Each to their own and you've had your own experiences. I have never had an issue, and I have never heard of anyone having a problem using the factory Toyota fuel filters (alone, without a secondary filter). Toyota spends billions of dollars on R&D and testing, and the 1VD-FTV has been in use all over the world (including developing nations with horrible fuel quality) for 15 years. The stock fuel filter on the LC200 is specified to filter at 4 microns, and has a water/fuel seperator already.

[@iguanagoat799]

@@XploringOz Will be interested to see how you go - hopefully it solves it for you. I've seen the exact symptom before and it turned out to be the secondary filter. The issue is that the fuel pump is specced for factory flow resistance (at 4 microns through a single filter). When you stick a secondary (probably 2 micron) filter into the equation, the pressure required to pull fuel through both is now significantly higher. This can cause additional wear on your fuel pump, and also pressure drops between filters or even collapsing fuel hoses depending on what type has been used.

[@sandracinalli6519]

That was a very informative video Nathan. Thanks. As a single female and not mechanically minded, I'm forever looking at videos about my 2018 GXL 200 series that explain things in such a way I'd understand them, and you did just that. I especially find your recommendations helpful. I rely heavily on the knowledge and recommendations of others, such as yourself. Thanks

[@XploringOz]

Awesome, thanks for the feedback Sandra. I'm glad my video could help somewhat as this is the main motivator behind creating them! Cheers 🙏

[@nanqin8757]

For the KDSS adjustment, first step is lift your cruiser up, and lose the two bolts one and half turns beside KDSS pressure accumulator(only one half turn, no loosen absolute avoid oil leak), second drop down the cruiser at flat/level ground and another guys let the left and right side as same height(maybe use jack/bar or some else ), after tie the tension for the two bolt when cruiser same height between passenger and driver side,

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, yes unfortunately I have tried this to no success. Although it helped a little bit, there is still a bit of a lean to the drivers side. Cheers, Nathan.

[@nanqin8757]

​@@XploringOz Nathan, I came from China also the LC200 owner, I think the root cause is KDSS oil pressure or quantity not correct after your rose carbody or long km driving. so Could u tell me you have charged or refilled/flush/ and calibrated pressure of KDSS hydraulic oil after your rose 2 inches carbody by BP51( in your video you told us ), Your can applied 5Mpa kdss oil pressure by pump through two pipe line connection after loosen charge line 2 bottom nuts 3 turns, and also loosen 2-2.5 turns for balance pressure bolt under accumulator, then release the nuts at top of accumulator/front sway bar cylinder/rear cylinder nuts one by one to flush oil/exhaust air, and after lock/tie 2 charge line bottom nuts which your had loosen 3 turns before which operation under KDSS system hydraulic oil pressure to keep 2.8-3.0 Mpa(around 400psi), so after that charge pump and drop cruiser at flat/level ground and re-lock 2 balance nuts under accumulator. I think will be balance after flush/adjustment oil pressure.

[@XploringOz]

@@nanqin8757 Thanks mate. This is great advice and something that I wasn't aware of previously. Given the lack of publicly available information regarding modifications to the KDSS system, it was something I hadn't done. I will definitely make some inquiry and see whether I can get the system checked over and to the correct pressure. I'll be sure to follow up with any success. Cheers, Nathan.

[@babajayp]

I had the same issue where remote was not working properly. Sometimes it works, sometimes there's lag, especially when trying to lock vehicle. For me the problem was the aftermarket led license plate bulbs. Changed it back to yellow stock bulbs, and no issues anymore. If you want to diagnose if lighting might be the issue, try disabling the comfort lights option in vehicle lighting settings that stay on for 30 secs once you turn off the engine and lock. Then afterwards, try the remote or door handle to see if there is any lag or delay. Good luck, hopefully this helped.

[@babajayp]

Worst case if you have too much lighting to diagnose, leaving that comfort auto lights system off in vehicle settings should hopefully make your life much better. I almost sold the LC because the delay was driving me nuts. Looking like a fool touching your door multiple times trying to lock was not acceptable for me.

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, thanks for this suggestion. this is something I haven't tried yet. I'll definitely look into this when I get some free time. It's still doing this years on 🤦‍♂️ Almost become the new norm now ...

[@Mechautoinsight]

Had the same problem with engine cut out after a few seconds running. Found my fuel pre-filter has a small amount of air trapped inside. Only found it after turning filter upside down and saw the bubble in the glass. Removed bubble and problem solved. Excellent video as always.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, I'll check this out and see if I can get any air bubbles out. Would be happy if it is just a simple problem like this 👍 Cheers, Nathan.

[@snoordman04]

You made me laugh at the end there, good to see you are human and had to go over it a couple of times 😁.. great video as always mate! Cheers Nathan 🤙🏼

[@XploringOz]

Haha, there are many... many takes making videos like this 😂 Thanks mate, hope you are doing well 👍

[@jcv551]

Hi Nathan Great honest video as always. My mechanic recommended and fitted the kaon shock guards to my 200 and I think they are great he also installed the Ironman forged upper control arms with my king suspension and the land cruiser drives great. I specifically bought the non Kdss model gxl to avoid what a lot of people are going through with the leaning. I hope you have luck with all the small issues but definitely look into the Kaon shock guards.👍

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate it. Yes, I have my eye on the Kaon guards, that sure look the part and hopefully something I'll put onto the vehicle sooner rather than later. Ahh, the infamous KDSS lean, although frustrating I do enjoy the benefits it does bring. Cheers, Nathan.

[@richard4136]

Thanks Nathan for your honesty. As a qualified mechanic I listen to people daily telling me how toyota's never have issues! As you have shown, in reality ALL vehicles have issues and in many cases it comes down to the luck of the draw as the saying goes. I too have owned a LC200. Was it perfect? Not by any measure. 7k for a set of injectors is criminal to say the least but the die hard Toyota fans never seem to be able to remember their breakdowns. On another note, the issue your are having where the circuit drops to 3 volts, check the related wiring earth points. Quite often over looked when checking voltage drop issues! Good luck!

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate the feedback and I could definitely believe what you say about some of those die hard Toyota customer haha. You are absolutely right though, no vehicle is perfect, we just need to find the best vehicle for our needs and work around some of the known flaws. Thanks for the electrical tip, I'll pay more attention to this if the issue comes back around... Not a fan of electrical issues... Cheers, Nathan.

[@johnstaring3210]

Just days before my warranty expired I had an issue with the centre diff light coming on. This resulted in: 1, not being able to engage low range, and 2, negating the cruise control. Took it to the dealer who rang me several hours later saying they couldn't detect an issue and could I come and collect the vehicle !! The service advisor just suggested to me that they just disconnect the light !!!!! The fact that this would have left me with no low range and no cruise control seemed to mean nothing to him. I then took the car to another outlet of the same dealership and the workshop foreman phoned me within 30 mins to advise that the (?) initiator needed replacing and that approval would have to come from Toyota HQ as it was a $3K part. I love this wagon, and now have 215K km on it, a 2014 model. After finding multiple stripped/cross theaded screws underneath the vehicle I now do all my own servicing. Air/rattle guns are a curse !!

[@actpiet]

I have to agree, rattle guns ruin every bolt the service agents touch. And it was never them!

[@XploringOz]

Disappointing to hear about the service you received! Can't believe anyone with any sort of pride in the work and workshop reputation would recommend this! Glad you were able to sort it in the end, but like you said. Things have to be done yourself to get the job done properly these days.... Cheers, Nathan.

[@great_offroad_adventures]

Hey mate. Few things, hope they help. 1. Fuel Draining back, mine was a missing seal in the secondary filter causing it to drain back over a night time, much like yours if driven multiple times during the day, it never faulted. 2. That “rear main seal leak” actually just looks like excess grease from the uni joints on front prop shaft flicking off…..I was the same as you, I thought ohh I got a rear main leak, but when we pulled the motor on mine it definitely wasn’t a rear main leak 👌🏻.

[@XploringOz]

Cheers mate, thanks for the suggestions. It would be awesome to get that fuel issue sorted that for sure. I'll check out those seals and some have also mentioned the primer could be at fault too, so I'll check this out too. Interesting to hear about the rear main issue, I can only hope that this is the case with my vehicle. I'll have this checked out on my next service. Cheers, Nathan.

[@great_offroad_adventures]

Yea mate - mine drove me up the wall and back in the remote Pilbara dying each morning 🤦🏻‍♂️….I had Broome Toyota put a new the fuel filter top hat aside for me ($130) which includes a new flow sensor and primer mechanism…in my case it wasn’t my issue (but I carry the parts as spares now, just in case), when I stripped the secondary filter I found the oring between filter and glass sight bowl was missing…..replaced and all fixed, in the hotel carpark in Broome none the less too 😂. 2x ways to check rear main, their is a small inspection plate in the bottom of the bell housing or alternatively their is a foam block that sides on the passenger side in an indent of the sump, this can be removed to allow access to torque converter & flex plate bolts, obviously if rear main is leaking flex plate will have oil on it and will be very easily visible through this opening.

[@dannyjansen6011]

@@great_offroad_adventures same issue I had was so frustrating.

[@XploringOz]

@@great_offroad_adventures I could imagine mate. It's definitely a frustrating issue and I can only imagine even more so when you are on a trip! Thanks for the tips I'll have both the top hat and the secondary filter checked. From all the comments it sounds like this issue will be fairly easy to fix, however its just a matter of diagnosing it! Thanks for the heads up with the rear main seal too. I've have some others mention that it could be a simple fix other than the rear seal, so I'll make sure I diagnose that correctly before pulling the vehicle apart. PS. Keep up the good work with your channel too, been following it for a lot longer than I've been making my own stuff. 👍 Cheers, Nathan.

[@Deatomizer]

Refreshing to see someone give an honest Toyota update review. Not sure why others are so reluctant to share problems with theirs. Throughout the years I've known plenty of Toyota owners that have had major problems with their vehicles like my Camry with its problematic transmission and on the flip side I know people who have Fords with zero issues. At the end of the day, all manufacturers have their problems and are far from perfect. Don't forget Toyota's class-action lawsuit filed against them for the particulate filter issue they took years to fix but continued to sell the faulty motor.

[@XploringOz]

For sure, I hear you there. People are keen to cover up the short falls and promote the perfections to ensure people don't think they've made a mistake or wasted their money. I think we all know deep down that every vehicle and model has their issue, no point in hiding it. Still very happy with the overall performance of this vehicle. Cheers, Nathan.

[@rhyswatkins9040]

Great video mate. With the starting issue, I’d check hoses and filter size on secondary fuel filter. 2 micron filters have been known to be too restrictive in some applications and some kits use undersized hose. This can be alleviated when the hose heats causing expansion which would explain it only being an issue on cold start. I would bypass the secondary fuel filter entirely to test.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, good suggestion. Bypassing the secondary filter is something that I haven't done yet and something I'll definitely try. Be interesting to see how this goes. Cheers, Nathan.

[@tonyf7997]

Rhys - 100% mate- I was told to dump the 2m and us a 30 to alleviate any potential issues ..

[@darshparmar7679]

I had success with rear main seal using leak stop,done with a new oil change didn’t work right away took about a week of freeway driving to seal ,great vid.

[@XploringOz]

Cheers mate, I'll keep this in mind if is starts to get worse! Cheers.

[@michaelcameron8904]

Nathan I have the same issue on my 200. I have tried most things to solve the problem. I have a friend who suggested kicking the idle speed up which he uses on his during winter. I did it to my before startup and it fast idled then kept going which it usually stops after five seconds. No priming etc. He said it may be dirt in throttle body. That was his suggestion. Hope this helps. I will start mine early in the morning and see what happens. Good luck. Love the vids.

[@scottinwood]

Nathan, sound a bit silly, but replace those screw type hose clamps with the spring type as per original Toyota ones on your fuel lines, usually added with secondary filter. They allow fuel line to expand and contract as necessary without damaging fuel lines. Keep up the good video’s, very helpful. 👍

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, thanks for this tip. I'm still having issues with this system and this will be another thing to look into 🙏 Cheers, Nathan.

[@Susieandchris]

Great video as usual . I try and do everything myself now as just cannot trust anyone to do the right thing . I see second generation lithium is out where you do not need a bcdc and charge off alternator and under bonnet . That will be a game changer.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate it. Yes, well I actually do have a video planned very soon for some new battery options. Might not be what you've mentioned, but still exciting to try out. Cheers.

[@RodMaxwell-d5d]

You have an air leak, probably at the non factory clamp on your fuel filter. Take that off and use a worm clamp, and do it up TIGHT. You may be able to hear a sound while using the priming pump, especially when the plunger goes hard. I had the same issue with mine and that was the cause.

[@and7976]

Mine is 250k km. I had to change maintenance items per the owners manual which includes a timing belt. Repairs that were not maintenance were: outer tie rods which developed a slop after 13 years. Water pump was changed with the timing belt because it had a minor leak. That's all I can remember. Mine is a '08 200 series 4.7 2uz-fe petrol.

[@ACCOD]

Less to go wrong on a petrol

[@ACCOD]

Less to worry about. No dusting or turbos. No injector issues etc.

[@and7976]

@@ACCOD same oem air box with zero dust

[@and7976]

My complaints are the fuel consumption is absurd. I am sure I payed the price in petrol that I saved in repairs 😆

[@XploringOz]

That's a good record for a 13 year vehicle. Glad to hear that things have gone relatively well for you and your cruiser. Petrols are definitely simply vehicles and don't suffer from some of the issues that our diesels do, that's for sure.... except for that fuel consumption haha. Thanks mate, Nathan.

[@moto4x4adventure9]

Hey Nathan, Great content as always mate. At 130,000 kms for your own peace of mind I would at least get a cold start test done on your injectors. I would also spend the $900 to get your intake manifold cleaned. I would completely disconnect your secondary fuel filter for a while to rule that out. If you're concerned about deformed injector seats (usually only a Prado issue) you can get your oil tested pretty cheaply. For your remotes I would change to new batteries, though you may have done this already. All the best 👍

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, thanks for the tips. So I have tried a couple of these. I've already done an intake clean, about 25000km ago, so that should still be good and have changed the batteries in the remote, unfortunately not the issue. I will definitely try the secondary fuel filter bypass though, this could give a good indication as to whether this is the issue or not. Testing the oil is another good suggestion. Thanks again, Nathan.

[@carlgunther5163]

Hi mate thanks for the feedback. its good to see that its not just me with the odd problem on my 200.

[@XploringOz]

No problems mate! Absolutely, doesn't matter which vehicle you have, things are bound to go wrong over time. Still love this cruiser though! Cheers, Nathan.

[@Sethjxl]

Replace the priming pump on the fuel filter. The membrane degrades over time and can leak air in. There is enough fuel in the system after the primer to allow it to run for a few seconds. Common issue with Patrols.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, I'll definitely look into this, especially since it has been mentioned a couple of times. Cheers, Nathan.

[@Sethjxl]

@@XploringOz no worries mate.

[@SUPERTRUCKER166]

Yep priming pump is leaking air, incredibly common with hand prime units in trucks. As for the key fob try replacing the battery’s within the fob itself, had similar issues with a mustang and turned out the button batteries were too low voltage causing detection failures

[@XploringOz]

@@SUPERTRUCKER166 Yeah, something I'll definitely look into, cheers. In terms of the battery issue in the remote, unfortunately this is something I have already tried without success, but I'll keep searching for a solution. Cheers.

[@dermauser6167]

Hi Nathan, straight away your fuel starvation issues were similar to an issue we had. After much stuffing around and a trial removal I eventually got rid of the aftermarket fuel pre-filter and haven’t had an issue since. No matter what I did or tried the vehicle just didn’t like an aftermarket fuel pre-filter.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, seems like this has been a common suggestion. Definitely something I'll look into and I'll try to isolate the secondary filter to see how it performs. Strange how it perform well for 40000km's though. Thanks mate, Nathan.

[@castlelowanna8626]

Thanks Nathan, great vid again. I am just now experiencing the same issue you had with your ARB suspension. When I collected it they mentioned there was 40psi in the bags for air testing thats why it sat up so high and that when I get home you can just let it out and it should sit right. When I got home there was only 5psi. Sits super high at the rear and rakes forward. I have my 500km checkup coming soon so will get them to watch this and explain why it sits like it does.

[@XploringOz]

Hmm, yeah that's a little poor in regards to the statement from ARB regarding the pressures. They ought to have known that this kit sits high. I will say now, I've had my front suspension wound right up to help add a little extra and given the extra weight in the rear, it sits nicely now, but it has taken some mucking around to finally get right...

[@holgermuller2987]

G’day Nathan, yep another very good one. Exact the information update I personally looked for. IOY… I have learned allot from you in a distance not able to drive my LC200 now for last 2 years sitting in the shed waiting to be taken out. What you experienced With your 200 I would put it into the box “normal subjects can happen”. Engine dies after start, ok that’s an annoying one, but may only a low fuel pressure problem and a safety shut down function from ecu. A well experienced diesel mechanic should be able to diagnose this easily. Electrics, parasite draw, is I guess a search and detect mission by an experienced el buff. I fixed such thing with good quality batt main switch on the 2nd battery. Sure el system modified and only 1 starter battery. See your manual isolator switch, guess was to cheap no IP rating and internal corroded or melt. 2 new batt isolator switch cost less then 1 hr in a workshop searching for the parasite in your el system. Ps having the same issue with my stock std forester, after 2 weeks battery is flat and or deeply depleted and dead. Great thanks for the info on the BP51, adjustments of spring setting and valving is very normal for what you load or not. The system needs experience and several goes to get it correct setted especial when your load variance is so much, unloaded, loaded, plus tow all weight with van on the back. There was 2 criterias for me to not choose in the beginning the BP51. Do I use the car empty as a 1. daily driver and 2. full loaded on trips and 3.with van? For me only 2 & 3, means I have to deal only with the 300kg ball weight add on. And as said, airbag men helper bags or better full air in the rear. I need more driving experience with my rig, then make a decision. You can come to this question again after your new van arrives, the tinny is on top and the Mercury 30hp outborder is on top of the van drawbar box!! Shock protection for the rear? Only HD aftermarket will do the job. Shitty plastic does not last and can be acknowledged from a mile away. Things I have not done yet, I am still collecting from you and little bit from others the infos. Greatest thing for me /us is that you share your experiences with the greatest passion and in such details that we all which are 100,000km behind you can learn from it. Thanks Nathan for all your vids and infos. One day I will come by Perth area and pay it back! Cheers

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate all the info here! I agree, all these issues are fairly 'normal' to some extent and could happen to anyone with any vehicle. I'll definitely get onto some of the suggestions that people have mentioned here in the comments regarding the fuel supply issues. There seems to be a few things that I can test and replace to see if I can get this issue sorted. It's definitely the most frustrating one thus far. Yes, the electrical draw although frustrating at least is it a very minor draw. Something that can be easily negated with my relatively small solar panel. Yes, the shock guards need to go, they never have been and never will be up to the task! I think some of the Kaon guards may be on order in the near future. I'm glad to be able to help and provide some information to others in the community with similar interested, after all this is why the channel was started! All the best, Nathan.

[@peterjacobs355]

Good video mate. My 2019 GXL has very similar mods to yours (inc Custom Installation drawers). I swapped out my HPD catch can for Provent, and them blew the rear main (40,000km) when towing my 3T van through the Bindoon hills. Toyota didn't want to know about warranty, but we did come to a compromise. $3k fix to get tranny out and replace seal, rocker cover gasket needed replacing as well. Catch can now in the bin and back to std!! Ultimate orginally did the accessory fuse box and harness - very disappointed with the workmanship. I put a 200AH DCS battery behind the fridge (Custom Installations made a special box for it during the drawer mfg) and Klarmann Automotive have redone the rear electrics with 1240 BCDC, Ergon DC hub, 2000W Victron Inverter. Much better workmanship.

[@XploringOz]

Interesting to hear your experience with the catch can. Running a standard setup might be something I look at doing, just to test out the results and see if it makes any difference. Also very interesting to hear about your wiring and workmanship. It's disappointing when you hear these stories, particularly after the potential a shop like this has with the products they fit. I have heard great things about the products coming out from Klarmann Automotive though Cheers, Nathan.

[@ianfoster4164]

Excellent video Nathan, I had a similar fuel issue with my Dmax and reported it numerous times. Found there was an air leak between the tank and the 30 micron primary filter ( self diagnosed) retightened all of the hose clamps 👍. Ian

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate 👍 Hmm, yeah I'll check this connections again and probably end up replacing the primer, sounds like this could be a potential issue too. Cheers.

[@tremorflow3614]

Great video as always! Have just acquired a 200 a few months the ago and love your videos. I have noticed with my key fob that is I park in certain places, something interferes with the fob or system in the car. Must be radio interference at those locations for me because I can go back there and it happens. Anywhere else at my house, no issues ever. My mothers subaru also, when we goto our local leagues club, her fob won't work. But never an issue anywhere else. I have a catch can provent 200 and also the fuel manager pre filter but am yet to install them. If you do find that they are the cause of the issues I am sure you will make a video on that. It's 50/50 for me to fit them, so many tell me not to. Have them both on a shelf but I have fitted a uni filter.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it! Interesting to hear you say that. From what I'm hearing here in the comment it appears that the Toyota frequency might be vulnerable to other frequency's from external devices and aftermarket modifications. Quite frustrating if this is the case and wondering whether it would be possible to change the frequency all together? Hmm, I hear you there. There are allot of reviews positive and negative on these accessories. In the end, the fitment or lack of will not harm your engine in the long run, they just provide benefits like longer intervals between intakes cleans and shorter intervals between fuel filter changes. Cheers, Nathan.

[@jebw]

Good summary Nathan. I'd check the battery and mating surfaces in the remote control to see if this effects your door opening and starting. With the low voltage to your rear accessories check the main fuse or circuit breaker. I've seen many of the inline fuse holders severely damaged by heat of poor connections that would have provided partial voltages to their load when faulty.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate. So I have changed the batteries in the remote a few times to try and sort the issue, with no joy just yet. Thanks for suggestion with the connections, I'l definitely look into it. The wiring and positioning of the cabling for these accessories makes it so hard to access in my vehicle, but I'll sure give it a go. Cheers, Nathan.

[@Moon222]

Thanks for this video. At this point, I would rather get a brand new stock offroad vehicle, rather than overland with all these issues and uneasiness.

[@XploringOz]

Still a great vehicle 💪

[@sarinsarin7898]

i own a 120 prado petrol v6 and has done 308,000 k's. The only issue i have had with it (so far) is the ABS module shit itself, i wacked in a used one from a diesel and not a problem since. I have been offroad abit with it, also towing boat and camper. The only thing i have to pay for is fuel. I do regular service and thats it. I have set it up now for just touring so am very happy with it.

[@shanebrowne2439]

Great vids. I always look forward to them truthful and informative. The key RF problems an be caused by the Inverter. Try fully isolating the DC side and see if issues goes away. I have had this problem in the van. It can interfere with most frequencies. Particularly if a budget inverter. Also make sure the inverter in earthed to the chassis. All inverters sold in oz should be CE certified and thus have a dedicated chassis earth terminal. This will also improve stray RF. As for parasitic drain. Your inverter will always draw current even if no AC load. I installed a 200 ampere combined circuit breaker/isolator on mine. This removed approx 200 milliamperes (0.2) of constant draw. Also your victron monitor will always be drawing current even when in power save mode with screen off. From a safety perspective I do hope you plug your AC appliances in with an inline portable Residual Current Device(Safety Switch). It may save your life on day. Do not assume that your inverter has built in RCD. cheers. Shane

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, so unfortunately the inverter hasn't been the causes of some of these issues. The inverter is a relatively new addition to the vehicle and these problems were present well and truely before it was fitted. There is no doubt that is some accessory that I've added, hard to diagnose the wireless issue when it's so intermittent... Thanks, mate appreciate the help 👍

[@dennisharvatin7191]

I have a 200 2014 VX, the only thing I’ve installed is a UHF & red arc brake controller, I have same issues, most time keyless entry and start work, then all of a sudden, car will not start, everything else works ie central locking works, put foot on brake, put button get all the reds but no start, and it doesn’t say “key not detected”, it just doesn’t start, try several times, then all of a sudden, it starts. Got me buggered . Any help would be appreciated Dennis

[@muddymaker3721]

I've owned Toyota Landcruisers all of my life, troopies and utes and they have taken me around Australia more times than I can remember. I have done the Gibb River road a number of times and traversed The Great Central Road numerous times. I have literally clocked up millions of kilometres across all of my vehicles. The only one that cost me an arm and a leg to own and run was my last cruiser I owned, a VDJ78R Troopy. Water pump failed at 50,000km. Then I started having problems with excessive oil consumption! I was in the middle of Queensland one year when in a rain storm my vehicle started playing up, the speedo stopped working, indicators stopped working and the engine started running rough and smoke started coming out of the dash. Then the next day it would all come good. I took it into Toyota and they could not recreate the problems. Within 6 months it started playing up again while I was in WA. It had some sort of electrical gremlin that no one could rectify. Then the V8 started running rough again and did not go away. Took it into a diesel specialist to where they diagnosed a number of faulty injectors and a buggered injector module, they recommended I change all of the injectors not just the buggered ones as well as the injector module. That little exercise cost me over $10,000 and it ht my hip pocket hard. Moral of the story is that no car is unbreakable or perfect and it really does come down to luck, but the good thing of owning a Toyota is its resale value.

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, thanks for sharing your experience and sorry to hear you had soo many issues with your VDJ78. I agree with you entirely, no vehicle is perfect and everything has potential issues. I guess we try and make educated decisions to reduce the chance of buying one of these vehicles and Toyota certainly do have a great average and long term track record. Cheers, Nathan.

[@bevanmauger1632]

In regards to your slight rear main leak, I too had a provent200 catch can, with a slightly weeping rear main oil leak and found by disconnecting the catch can the oil leak went away, don't know why filter was new and replaced no blockages in breather pipes but this fixed the problem, so in the end I fully removed it and had a tune put on my vehicle with an egr delete and have all signs of rear main weep disappear, just something for you to consider.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, yes something I'll consider. Interesting to hear the direct correlation that you have observed though. Food for thought. Cheers, Nathan

[@Michael_Mears]

Provent 200 catch can is what I've been using since 9,000km, now 33,000km. Before installing the Provent unit the DPF came on three times, but hasn't come on since, so that's 24,000km with no DPF burn. I think it's a testament to how much unnecessary gunk is kept out of the system. I drain about 50mL or so of oil and some water out at oil changes.

[@XploringOz]

That's definitely interesting to hear and glad that you have managed to get some benefits from this system!

[@tomrollings4233]

MY FAMILY AND I :) :) NOT MY FAMILY AND ME .... FLOOR MATS FIT GREAT ... VERY HAPPY ... THE LID ON THE FILTER MIGHT NEED TO BE REPLACED HAD THE ISSUE YOU MADE MY DAY WITH THOSE .... GREAT INFORMATIVE VIDEO AGAIN WELL DONE NATHAN ..

[@XploringOz]

Thanks Tom! Haha, grammar slipped up there 😂 A few people have mentioned the fuel primer/lid issue, so definitely something I'll look into for sure! Thanks mate, Nathan.

[@azzaby]

Thanks, very useful information. My land cruiser is a vdj200 , same engine twin turbo 4.5 diesel, but with no intercooler, and it's manual transmission 🙂, with troops tail gate, with normal ignition system no much electricital and electronics . Even the interior material is kind Water proof. It's 210,000 km no issues so far.

[@XploringOz]

Very nice! Sometimes the more basic is better. Less to go wrong. Hopefully you have trouble free times ahead 👍

[@overlandingand4WD]

Another good one Nathan, thank you. A few items there I can relate to, especially the parasitic current drawn from the aux battery by dashcams and USB chargers, etc.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, yeah I can imagine there would be a few people out there with a few issues like these. Some good suggestions coming though the comments though, so that's good! Cheers.

[@peterj1376]

Another informative and open chat, thanks Nathan. Seems sometimes it's just luck receiving the right information from the sales person firstly on down to the individual you get who actually does the work on the vehicle as to what sort of outcome is achieved, One of the places you mentioned as giving good service to you were appalling with me and I left thinking I wouldn't let them near my car so there you go, experiences can be different. Anything you get done to a vehicle that you can't do yourself is always a bit of a leap of faith and you just hope they do a good job. I am forced to change my suspension and get a GVM upgrade (which I would prefer not to) just to stay safe and legal towing a very small van and like you although my car is slightly modified no one would look at it and say it's over the top. A lot of people look at Land Cruisers and think you can load them up and tow anything but that is far from the truth. Cheers, Peter J

[@XploringOz]

Thanks Peter, I agree with the experience with customer service is definitely a huge part of how we feel about leaving our vehicles with fitters. It's interesting to hear that you have had a bad experience with one of those companies, but I guess this happens in this industry. I feel like a lot of companies these days don't have that care or pride in their work anymore and it's hard to find someone that will treat your vehicle like their own. I hope you can manage to get your suspension issue sorted easily enough. Thanks again, Nathan.

[@notimpressed3922]

No surprise that the ARB gear has been a problem and that the info from the ARB sales/marketing team is not always up to helping the problem. We have been running ARB lift kits to carry survey gear in town and out western Qld - we use around 20-25 HiLuxes, DMaxs, about 6 LC79's and 4 LC200's . The ARB stuff has been a constant source of issues over time from broken / cracked springs, leaking and poor performing shockies and drooping leaf springs. Usually, the first year is OK, after that is when the fun starts. Many of these vehicles are town use mostly and some of these even fail, often creating bizarre wear patterns on tyres - wearing them out even quicker All round not what we needed. We have since moved away from the ARB marketing team and have used a couple of options - Opposite Lock, and a couple of other local, but less well known suppliers have been used over the last couple of years to replace the ARB stuff as it has been failing. Bit early to tell, but most of the replacement gear is going as well or better than the ARB stuff it has replaced On the topic of info from 'service centres' , ARB is not the only one that provides dodgy or incorrect info. We have had issues with info from Coopers suppliers regards tyre pressures. The tyre fitters have told our guys a 35-45psi range for a tyre with a max pressure of 80 psi printed on the sidewall - only for our guys to blow brand new tyres due to under-inflation. When shown the pressure info on the side of the tyre, one of these geniuses remarked "well, that doesn't look right does it ??" Really ?? I have been using Dobinson MRR adjustable shockies on a LC200 for a couple of years now without a problem, not many k's tho' ~45,000km 80/20 road/dirt . Not too bad to adjust to balance performance/comfort but it does take patience with the range and nature of the adjustment The hi/lo speed compression damping operates similarly to my motorcycle, so that's not too bad. Rebound adjustment is simple using the manual provided. You can feel a single click on both .

[@XploringOz]

For sure, ARB salespeople and just salesmen after all. They don't have that pride that sometimes comes with smaller, independent workshops. I'll run this gear into the ground and then I'll definitely be looking at the market to see what else is available. Saying this, overall the ARB suspension has been performing well thus far. What gear are you running in your fleet now? Cheers, Nathan.

[@SarahandKeelanTravels]

Epic video mate, well said and you're right! a lot of good positive reviews on KZbin not many showing the negatives! cheers

[@XploringOz]

Cheers guys! Keep up the great work with your channel, been following for sometime now. You guys are doing great. Looking forward to finally releasing the unveiling of our new van too... when we finally get it!

[@louisbailey-118]

Love all your content Nathan, Keep up the great work mate 🍻

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate it 👍

[@thinpins1]

Thanks Nathan, I’ve just picked up a dead stock 2014 Sahara and your videos are very helpful. I like the way you think 👍.

[@XploringOz]

Awesome, thanks mate. Good vehicle 👍 All the best with all your new adventures

[@beaver528]

A lot of vehicles ,Toyota's included ,need to be shut up AND locked before the computer goes to sleep and stops drawing current. Toyota technician alerted me to this and it solved my battery woes!

[@XploringOz]

Yes, this is true. Unfortunately this isn't the draw on my battery 🤔

[@06hunter54]

Rear main leak is due to the catch can, remove it. One way to check if the catch can is causing too much pressure is to warm up the engine and take off the oil filler cap. If its making chuff chuff noise accompanied with blow by then you have your answer. Then remove catch can hoses and reconnect original hose and test it again with oil filler cap. I guarantee you that there will be almost no chuff noise and very little blow by.

[@XploringOz]

I hear where you are coming from and although it is possible it should also be noted that the Provent unit does also come with a pressure bypass valve to ensure this doesn't occur. Removing the catch can might still be something that I try to see if it makes a difference. Cheers, Nathan.

[@dustyfarmer]

That chuff chuff or knock, knock noise you can hear out of the catch can with its lid off or via a stethoscope on the left bank rocker cover on the 1VD-FTV V8 engine is more likely a noisy vacuum pump on the passenger side bank. They can make noise for some reason but still work fine, I replaced my vacuum pump for that reason at 97K & no noise now.

[@videowsatcher]

Wrangler Unlimited I used to own (3.6 Penstar V6); in year 4, major main rear oil seal leak (under 70,000 km). Also under warranty had my front suspension system redone; it was creaking and squeaking and turns out it was literally starting to fall apart (poor factory fit). Also, TC/SC would randomly cut out sometimes off road and the roof would leak

[@HardstylePete]

I recommend you study up on the 12v electronics and rebuild the system yourself. The key reason why I built my own 12v system is so that if there are any electrical issues, I can diagnose those issues whilst out on the tracks. The system is extremely basic and each electrical component is independent of each other. There are some pros and cons with each approach but this could help your situation/frustrations.

[@XploringOz]

For sure. It's always best to build your own. At least you can troubleshoot and fix on the road soo much easier. My issues are definitely going to be hard to find with the rabbit warrant of wires I've got going on... Cheers.

[@Michael_Mears]

The Victron BMV unit draws

[@nrmjessop1257]

My Redarc Inverter was controlled by the Redvision soft switches. The soft switch system showed the inverter as OFF. Unknown to me the rocker switch directly on the end of the inverter was a three stage switch. Off. 1 and 2 positions had a dramatic effect. Stage 1 on the rocker over rode the soft switch system. So the inverter was constantly working even with the Redvision screen indicating the inverter as OFF. The battery was draining by 1.8 amps constantly. Stage 2 on the rocker switch allowed the soft switches to operate and was the setting the rocker should have been set at all along. Finally the drain to the battery solved.

[@Michael_Mears]

@@nrmjessop1257 Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. All these things are switched off, but one of them is not really off at all. Only the output or load side of the appliance is off. The input side is still drawing current. 1.8A draw while "off" for your inverter was certainly a decent phantom load. Good find on switch. I'm guessing the third position on the switch was a true off. Pos 1 = always on, no matter what the soft switches do. Pos 2 = controlled by soft switched. Pos 3 = off. Sound about right?

[@nrmjessop1257]

@@Michael_Mears Thats about right. I only found the switch was incorrect set on installation and partially boxed in, when I disconnected and removed my solar panel and stopped topping up the battery loss.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks for the suggestions mate. I'll definitely look into this. Something is definitely still drawing that power even though the appliance is still off. I'm fairly sure it won't be the inverter as this issue was around prior to having hate inverter installed, but none the less I'll need to find it either way. Hopefully it's not something within the BMS. Cheers, Nathan.

[@Roachesontheroad]

Thanks Nathan. Really enjoy all your videos love your honesty

[@chrischamberlain8292]

Fuel will probably be to do with the secondary filter installation. Have you returned that part to stock to see if theres any difference? IIRC the barbs are threaded into the secondary filter housing so if its not a perfect seal on those threads, theres your leak. I would also remove your catch can, I just pulled mine out as it was causing crank case pressure despite having a new filter (provent 200). That will stop your rear main leak. Take your oil cap off and see if it dances a little. Havent read other comments but Id say/hope these have been suggested. Disappointing to see the same place let you down with multiple stuff ups, its a shame those places manage to stay in business.

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, so I've done exactly what you have said in recent times. Both the catch can and the 2nd fuel filter have been removed for testing and to see what effect this has. So far, this has worked. The vehicle is starting well and no noticeable leaks. So more testing and monitoring is required here to see what can be improved 👍 Cheers, Nathan.

[@chrischamberlain8292]

@@XploringOz Good to see youve made progress! Might be worth canning the second filter you have and getting an entire new unit. I was shocked at how much blowby the provent was causing....

[@GetCampingOz]

For your current draw, start pulling fuses one by one until it goes back to 0. I had the same issue and found it that way. Also, make sure your sensor is in the correct position and no other cables are near it - assuming its a hall effect sensor? I would also be checking all your earths and crimped connections. To have low power just that once and then not have it again, it has to be a connection issue. Hope that helps :)

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate it. I'll definitely go through the fuses one by one and see if I can find that load. Earthing seems to be another popular topic brought up and something I'll also look into. Thanks again, Nathan.

[@janithperumathanthri7225]

The suspension stuff is gold. Was looking to get a GVM upgrade with ARB. Might rethink that.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, sure wasn't gold for me at the time 😂 Glad it could be of use though. Cheers, Nathan.

[@lukehutchinson6754]

Great review and knowledge Nath. If you manage any fixes for what you have gone through it would make a great follow-up episode. Keep up the amazing quality of your channel. Cheers 🍺🍻

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate the feedback. I'll be sure to keep everyone updated with some of the fixes (if I can sort them out 😂). Cheers mate, Nathan.

[@alicephillips3600]

As soon as we put a Waeco CFX in our cruiser we had issues with the remotes, after much frustration we changed back to an Ingel fridge and now everything works fine. Even if the Waeco is turned off and still plugged in it interfered with the remotes.

[@XploringOz]

Hmm, this is an interesting one. I'll definitely check this out and see whether or not my CFX65 is causing the issue. That would be a simple fix to a frustrating problem! Cheers, Nathan.

[@holgermuller2987]

Ops, to remember when back in the car and my new cfx50 is plugged in. Thanks and cheers.

[@chrisspies8123]

Uet another good amd informative vid Nathan. It'sgreat to continue to see your real world and honest review on things. Hoping you grt these gremins fixed before your big trip

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoy the channel 👍 Hope so too, would make life on the road a little easier

[@dustyfarmer]

Spare a thought for those who make the mistake & buy high priced 4WD shock absorbers with no stone shields at all protecting the chrome on the rods. I had a bloke tell me they are hard chrome plated & won't be damaged by road gravel. I told him they would be pitted, nicked & rock blasted in short time and leaking oil everywhere. Even the shocks with the neoprene bellows are bad for sucking in dust through the breather holes & wearing out the seal on the shaft as dust sits in the little seal recess around the shaft & works its way in. I wash the bellows out & blow the seal area clean with compressed air. I've got a solid front axle in my VDJ79R and recently had to repack the swivel hub & replace wheel bearings due to water ingress & water contaminated grease so they too can get water into them given enough water crossing or in my case I think it was from ploughing through long water puddles on flooded roads which blasted water into the swivel hubs. I like to solder all terminals on 12V inputs, crimped joints are a bit iffy. I reckon the standard Toyota fuel filter system is OK & you don't need a secondary fuel filter, especially a secondary fuel filter with a lower micron filtration than the stock fuel filter like they all are. Those key isolater switches are dodgy especially under heavy amp. draw or as you found even when simply required to work & they don't, I just connect my winch cable positive to my battery terminal threaded post when I need to. I fitted one of those Terrain Tamer stainless steel inserts to my airbox lid that increases the sealing area & I rubber grease the filter seal & are careful how I fit the airbox lid as to not roll or crimp the seal, no dust past the sealing lip on my stock airbox. I found those clear bowl Donaldson cyclonic snorkel heads to be good & filter out plenty of fine dust and particularly little black nat insects that would otherwise make their way to the airfilter element.

[@XploringOz]

For sure, I hear you there. I agree that those chrome rods definitely need some sort of protection. After seeing what damage can be done to the underside of my old caravan with rock chips, there is no way these parts are immune from that kind of wear and tear off-road. Thanks for sharing all of those tips, they are all good points and something that I'm sure all 200 series and 70 series owners can relate too. Cheers, Nathan.

[@chrisgraham1179]

Really enjoyed that vid mate, one of your best yet. Of particular interest was the suspension, especially given I’ve just pulled the trigger on same set up to be fitted in April. I really don’t want that much lift in height, but I am heavy with dual carriers, bull bar winch, dual batt, and drawers etc, soooo hopefully I won’t get anywhere near 4inches in the rear and 2 in the front….pretty keen for 2 at the rear and 1 at the front 🤞

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate the feedback! Hopefully the suspension will turn out the way you hope for. I reckon with those modifications it would keep the height down a bit. I've found it to be good suspension (after all the adjustments and replacements). Cheers.

[@Jay-hr9ci]

Q1. How and where did you measure the 3v? Q2. Please describe your battery setup Q3. Regarding the 0.2amp draw, what battery isolator are you using? Some actually draw .2amps in standby. Q4. Measure the voltage drop in the rear fuse box, at standby and under load (i.e fridge running, lights, etc). I suspect: - Too much voltage drop to rear fuse panel - Incorrect cable gauges - Current leakage from dash cams, battery isolators, inverter standby - Bad earths or using chassis as return path. Tests: - Does the current drain go away when you pull all the fuses out of the accessories? - Key not detected: 1. Does it go away when you hold the key over the start button? (there is a rfid sensor there) 2. Pull the fuses out of all accessories, does it still happen? - Does the rear fuse panel have a direct connection to the battery + and -

[@XploringOz]

Hey mate, sorry I missed this comment a little while back… 1. The 3V was measured at the installed fuse block in the rear of the vehicle. This has a single positive and negative wire terminating at the block. 2. Simple dual battery setup. Single primary starter battery, Redarc BCDC1240D isolator/charger into a 105Ah deep cycle (under bonnet). All accessory wiring is managed through a secondary aftermarket fuse block. 3. Yes, some of the comments suggest the small draw could be coming form the BCDC1240 charger. 4. Will conduct that test. Thanks for your suggestions. I’ll try and go over the system bit by bit and see if I can use some of your advice to try and diagnose and fix some of these issues. Haven’t tried pulling all the fuses in regards to battery draw or the wireless interference. Yes, the key still works when in immediate proximately to the start button. Fuse block does not have a direct connection.

[@doggies42]

Hi Nathan love your videos and just a follow up on your fuel filter issue as I have had this happen to me and how mine was resolved. My car is a Sahara 2011 model and I recently installed a Ryco Fuel filter through my mechanic as a extra bit of insurance when going outback and getting dirty fuel. A couple of days after installation the car would be hard to start or would start and cut out but once running for a couple of minutes the car ran fine or you would have to prime the fuel. This would only happen if the car was on a hill with the front facing down so the fuel was getting a air pocket, after a number of trips to the mechanic replacing fuel lines and fuel pump my mechanic then removed the ryco fuel filter which was brand new and the problem was fixed so he contacted ryco who said could not be the filter but sent a replacement filter which was installed by the mechanic and have never had a problem since. Ryco also wanted the faulty filter sent back for testing which goes to show that the new part is not always perfect.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, this is something I'll definitely look into. Interesting to hear that something so simple could cause the issue. I think I'll start with isolating the secondary filter to see if this makes a difference, should give a good indication straight up. Cheers, Nathan.

[@scottdoney6926]

Camber angle is corrected by the upper control arms addition not caster the caster is adjustable in the lower arm as well as the camber to a lesser affect

[@XploringOz]

Cheers mate, I was under the impressions that these UCA's will effect both the camber and caster? Cheers.

[@joshklippelt1764]

Blackhawk UCA have 3 degree positive castor angle fixed into them, so most aftermarket UCA's actually do allow for castor adjustment. Some other UCA's also have adjustable castor angles.

[@rockbiterhd]

Very honest great review as for the 3 volt issue I would add extra earths and the winch I use a 200 amp circuit breaker and your power draw pull the fuses until it stops that will identify the circuit ? And you could fit a diode to the solar panels . Enjoy but I think I will keep my 100 series 👍🍻🍺

[@XploringOz]

Thanks for the suggestions mate, appreciate it. It seem like earthing is a popular suggestion and something Ill definitely look into. Thanks for the info, Nathan.

[@Wilbargosh]

Nathan, Pro Touring Concepts have mentioned in one of their 200 chop series that a better quality starter battery is important. I guess the CPU could be detecting voltage irregularities and causing faults. Checking all the earth posts are tight and not corroded also helps. Regarding the suspension it sounds like ARB are loosing their platform of quality and reliability or the people they employ are not as skilled and customer focused as we expect.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, interesting point there, I'll have a look into this. I'll definitely be going through and checking everything in a little more detail now. Hmm, yeah, ARB might be getting a little too big for their own good to be honest. Cheers, Nathan.

[@alby1o1]

With your fuel issue you may have a really small air leak in one of the fittings allowing fuel to siphon back into the tank . This is a problem I had on a Series Landrover many years ago . A more recent problem I have had with my LC79 is a blocked fuel tank breather causing the tank to pull a vacuum as the fuel was used causing the blocked fuel filter light to come on .

[@XploringOz]

Hmm, I'll check this out for sure. Thanks mate 👍

[@simonhjc]

Great video. I had a 2018 200 after years of owning 70 series (and still own worlds best fj45). Hated the 200. Just as i hated australias first fj cruiser which i modified like your 200. Everything seemed compromised. Hated the brakes, the droop, the soft interior. Yes, loved the tourer but a prado will do the same. So i went back to a 79 dual cab! Lol. Happy camper. Love solid front axle etc. keep em stock, keep em serviced. 😊

[@XploringOz]

Ah fair enough, each to their own. That's why Toyota make so many models, if we all wanted the same thing it would be fairly boring. Glad you have found what you enjoy though. Cheers, Nathan.

[@simonhjc]

@@XploringOz oh thats not a critisim. Injust couldnt get it “fit for purpose” brilliant tourer and with mods very very capable. Just not fit for purpose for me thats all. Only vehicle ive nearly dozed off at behind the wheel lol! 👍

[@XploringOz]

@@simonhjc For sure mate, no offence taken! That's what so great about the 4WD scene. They are so many models to choose from and we can all make our personal choices for a vehicle that best suits our personal requirements and personalities 👍

[@simonhjc]

@@XploringOz 💯 i had a troopie conversion pop top which was great, bought 200 for the seating as ive got grandkids but we never used it. So i went back to the dual cab 79. Doing a build at 60 is different to being 30. I even have to consider “do i want to climb into a roof tent”

[@XploringOz]

@@simonhjc Haha, that's it. Preferences and uses change over the years. You need to get what is best for your setup and whether or not you want to climb into the tent 😂

[@mickburns5546]

Hey Nathan. I’ve had problems in the past with the primer pump being the culprit. That’s the one on top of the factory fuel filter. Replaced it and problem went away. Just a suggestion. 😁

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, seems like this has been a popular idea for this issue and something I'll definitely look into. Cheers mate.

[@WomBattle]

Great vid! Some great info for a fellow 200 series owner. Thanks!

[@XploringOz]

Awesome, glad to hear you enjoyed it. Thanks.

[@matthewstevens6605]

Grab the Kaon rear shocks guards mate they’re a quality piece of gear!

[@XploringOz]

They have been the one's I've had my eyes on, definitely something I'll look into in the future. Cheers, Nathan.

[@ausguy4385]

@@XploringOz don't they are pointless. Bend like Swiss cheese.

[@XploringOz]

@@ausguy4385 Interesting to hear. Damaged on rough 4WD tracks?

[@ausguy4385]

@@XploringOz nope just a rocky road. Have a local fab guy make up some think ones. Design is ready to test fit. Will let you know

[@XploringOz]

@@ausguy4385 Yeah, please do 👍

[@brianh6981]

Hi Nathan Just watched your latest video. In regards to the Victron current draw......I've had a Victron BMV702 installed in a Hilux and Isuzu. Over the past few years it has ALWAYS shown a constant current draw of 0.27A even though the instruction manual for the 702 states that it should only be 4mA; i.e. a constant current draw of 0.004A. All the wiring and connections have been thoroughly checked but the current draw of 0.27A remains unchanged. No-one can find the source. I suspect that the Victron specs are "laboratory" specs, not real world specs. As regards the intermittent fault, thoroughly check the shunt, the pin connectors etc....everything relating to the shunt and connectors. I found one of the pin connections to be faulty, and one of the small black chips on the shunt had a corroded leg attached to the PCB. Hope these help.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, it seems like a few people share this issue too. Some have also mentioned it might even be the Redarc BCDC charger too. In the end it's something that I'll probably have to learn to live with, but at least Im aware. Thanks for the suggestion with the shunt connections. Cheers, Nathan.

[@michaelchester6239]

Cheers for your vids mate, awesome content, not sure if it’s been mentioned but Great Off-Road Adventures had same fuel issue while on his Kimberley trip. Does a good diagnosis of his issue which is worth a watch S3 Ep2. Ended up a missing oring on the secondary fuel filter. But worth a watch for some other idea’s. Hope you resolve the issue.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you are still enjoying them 👍 Yes, actually Graham form ORA actually commented himself. Some good points there and I'll see what I can use to help diagnosis. Cheers, Nathan.

[@vin6455]

once again an awesome honest video..thanks Nathan.

[@XploringOz]

Cheers mate, glad you enjoyed it 👍

[@barry.m9681]

Hi I don’t own a land cruiser but have been following you for a long time now. I have always found your stuff very interesting. You comes across as someone who is fairly switched on . From how you research and go about things. I have always wondered what you do for a living and what your back ground is in As with the electrical low voltage issues check all the ground wires , that is something that most people overlook

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoy the channel! I do try and research and learn everything I can about a topic before reporting on it. It's not always perfect, but hopefully its enough to help people make an educated decision for their own vehicles and setups. Leaving school I went to Uni for a couple of years and study Accounting/Finance, however soon realised this wasn't for me 😂 finally ended up in local Government where I've been for the last 10 years or so. Cheers, Nathan.

[@ausguy4385]

Lovells have a 4t and even a 4.2t remote shock kit, that keeps the 3.5t towing. I am going this way I think. Might go 4.2t since gives more wiggly room and is better shocks and better feed back. The bad feed back about the 4t seems silly as you can't run it empty and expect it to not be harsh when so under the weight.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, might have to look into these to alleviate some of the weight issues I'm having. No doubt that I'm due for a bit of a vehicle diet too... 😂 Cheers, Nathan.

[@campally]

Iv got lovells remote res 4.2t upgrade. did 45k last year including Gibb, great central, plenty & Birdsville towing 22ft 3.5 tonne van. Performed well.

[@XploringOz]

@@campally Good to hear, might be something I look into should this suspension give up on me. Cheers.

[@ausguy4385]

@@campally how does it ride unloaded? What is your unloaded weight?

[@campally]

@@ausguy4385 it’s definitely noticeably firmer. Weighed in at 3360kg basically empty with me in it.

[@neilocoop]

Loved the introduction :)

[@XploringOz]

Haha, thanks mate 👍

[@cyclemoto8744]

HAven't had any issues with my BP51.. However my experience with ARB is that their staff have no idea how to specify the suspension kits to customers. I should have learned my lesson from prior experience (although the last time I did get an independent mechanic to install the kit ), they still specified rear springs which are well above the weight rating of what my vehicle requires which now requires me to purchase a different set of rear springs, $600 wasted there...Moral of the story, ARB do make some worthy products but their staff generally do not have the specialised knowledge which should go along with selling some of their products. Regarding Projecta, having used Redarc with my first vehicle then moving to Projecta on the next vehicle, I'll say that Projecta is rubbish, issues with their DCDC/MPPT charger only to be sent another one with the same issue, their power monitor wasn't much better, it would freeze up and require a reset by unscrewing the terminals from the battery (I'd say, return the products under warranty but in my experience you'll just receive the same rubbish with the same issues). I'm now using Victron and have no plans to ever purchase Projecta again. I would consider Redarc if someone threw money at me (due to the simplicity of the installation) however their in built MPPT isn't very good. Victron products are more advanced and cost less. so I'll keep using them. (BVM712 has never had the issues which you've described - you should return it under warranty) . Regarding your gullwing window, and this applies to all installs which don't require specialised skills, do it yourself if you want it done correctly as you can't trust most people to perform the work to your own standards, even if your standards are as simple as "the install should meet all specifications and look clean". Thanks for the content Nathan Cheers

[@XploringOz]

Thanks for sharing mate. I agree with your comments here. The ARB people are just salespeople after all and not all of them have that same passion that we share for our modifications and off-roading and definitely don't share the interest in our vehicles that we've spent our hard earned money on! Intersting points about Projecta. I haven't used much of their stuff, but so far what I have used has held up alright. I've always heard good things about Victron though. They are definitely getting a good reputation! Yes, the EmuWing.... well, it's there now, but things would be done differently if I had my time again! Cheers, Nathan

[@bradjoyce525]

Hi Nathan, Re the 12 volt issues, not good. Not easy to find but you need to find the constant current draw and the 12 to 3 volt cause otherwise could cause a fire 6W of power might not seem much but that can really hot in a confined small space. Re key not working, have you checked that your wireless devices are off as wireless interference from one of the accessories could cause this.

[@XploringOz]

For sure, definitely need to try and replicate this issue and conduct some more testing. With the key, yes I have manually switched off the wireless function, but no doubt its a standby signal that interfering. The diagnosis continues... Cheers.

[@babydoc3622]

Great video. regarding your build i was wondering what your estimated finished weight is for the rig and what is your current fuel efficiency for 100ks?

[@tonyzsolczay1970]

Just after purchasing my new 200, at 10,000kms I added a prefilter, then had the same issue with the vehicle cutting out after starting when sitting for long periods, bypassed the prefilter, problem went away.

[@mickburns5546]

If you run a DCDC in the vehicle, they will pull those kinds of amps when not in use. Check the owners manual on it to be sure.

[@XploringOz]

Hmm, interesting. It's definitely something that I can't do without though. Looks like I'll have to get used to it then 🤦‍♂️ Thanks, Nathan.

[@mickburns5546]

@@XploringOz do your leakage test with and without it connected to confirm. But your probably clever enough to have already worked that out. I run a Kickass brand in my 100 series and don’t really have a problem but I drive it pretty well every day. Maybe work out an ignition powered relay?

[@joeyespragosa8041]

Good video Nathan thank your for info,can I please to know also common trouble shooting of LC 200 pls

[@tonyryder5771]

Great video, I was thinking about doing the same thing, I.e an honest video or blog from a novice point of view, just bought a new 200 series and off road van and about to start modifying my vehicle to do some off road remote camping, from the perspective of a guy my age, I.e. a little worn and broke. For your electrical issue, check your inverter, is will/should trip out if it gets too hot…

[@XploringOz]

Haha, sounds like a great idea! It's good to hear everybody's experience and thoughts to get the best overall information. Thanks mate, I'll check it out. Cheers, Nathan.

[@ccmogs5757]

Good honest no BS review , nice one mate :)

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it. Cheers, Nathan.

[@allaboutfishinghuntingvic6871]

Nice video mate I had the same problem with my cruiser kept saying key not detected Changed my head unit and all my key problems were solved never to show up again been 2 years now

[@XploringOz]

Hmm, interesting. I'm starting to think that the wireless frequency that Toyota use it a possible frequency with many other types of aftermarket gear.... quite inconvenient. Cheers, Nathan.

[@slowboat6021]

thanks for sharing Nathan, few things in life are perfect...

[@XploringOz]

No problems mate, glad you enjoyed it 👍 Amen to that.

[@trevanek]

Hello. Your videos speak a good experience. I have an older version of the LC200. Sometimes I also have a problem with the response of the wireless key. Here in the Czech Republic, it is difficult to make adjustments in terms of registration in the technical card. Nevertheless, something is possible and I still hesitate precisely because of the weight and other problems. We travel around the world and so far the factory setting has been enough for me almost everywhere. the fact is that you don't risk so much during the expedition, you also want to go home. My chassis is still a hydraulic original toyota. It works well, only the stroke could be bigger, so I'm looking for advice on such a setting.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed the video. Yes, the standard LC200 is a very capable and well made vehicle and doesn't really need any modifications. We are very lucky here in Australia as they are a very common vehicle so parts are available anywhere. We are generally safe to modify and hope that parts are available if needed around the country. All the best with your adventures! Cheers, Nathan.

[@Stannos_Adventures]

Hi Nathan, I'm a new 200 series owner and watching all your episodes which i thank you for. What rotors and pads did you choose and would you choose the same again?

[@kylepotter9054]

Great Info mate, love your videos.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, appreciate it 👍

[@rogerhector5885]

yuo said after a couple of days it wont start so you should leave it at the mechanics for a couple of days to check start it . not at different times through the day

[@coleEmmm96]

The air in the fuel system is probably due to faulty lift pump / primer pump have heard of a few guys with the same issue

[@XploringOz]

I'm thinking the same thing, will be getting it replaced very shortly 👍

[@davidn1953]

Had same starting problem with my 2013. My mechanic replaced the top section of the fuel filter, despite no air leak apparent. It's a separate part. Problem solved.

[@XploringOz]

Thanks mate, a few people have mentioned this. I would be happy if this is a simple as a small part replacement 👍 Cheers, Nathan.

[@JimmyStewpot]

.2 amp draw do you have illuminated fuses? Turn off backlight on the victron bmv and see what the draw is.

[@XploringOz]

Cheers mate. Unfortunately I don't have illuminated fuses and the Victron backlight only stays on for about 30 seconds. Cheers, Nathan.

[@phs84]

Replace the factory fuel filter lid / pump, once the diaphragms wares it will still pump but will let air in as well Any dust is bad, it is unnecessary ware and eventually you will see that reflect engine issues or failures, if that happens while you own it or not that depends how much dust your 200 sees. That front strut is wound right down you should get a more suitable length spring, but even better get some better suspension I don’t mean for any offense but the 51s are all show and no go, bad batch…. Leaking and squeaking bushes and clunking is also common

[@XploringOz]

Cheers mate, I'll definitely be checking out the filter lid assembly for sure. With the suspension, so far I've been quite happy with the performance, albeit the adjustment issues and rear shock leaks. Saying that, if I had my time again, I would research the market to see what else is out there. Cheers, Nathan.