Realistic Minimus 7 Speaker Modification and Test

We take two different pairs of Minimus 7 Speakers and modify them with a different Woofer and updated Crossover.
I also introduce a new piece of test equipment to the bench: The Dayton Audio DATS V2
We then test the results and compare them to a Stock pair of Minimus 7 speakers. This was a lot of fun!
Link to DATS V2 Test Device:
www.parts-express.com/dayton-...
Link to ND105-8 Speaker:
www.parts-express.com/dayton-...
Link to PC105-8 Speaker:
www.parts-express.com/dayton-...

[@keithrowe7617]

Hey there. Thank you for this. You taught me more about crossovers and speaker design than any single source I've ever come across. Thanks for taking the time and the many hours it must have taken to put this together. Bravo! By the way, your recording has a lot of room in it so the differences are hard to hear, even with headphones. To get an accurate recording of these guys I would: 1.only use 1 speaker so there are no potential phase issues from the speakers being slightly different distances. 2. place your mic 12-16" away so you're minimizing the amount of "room" the mic hears. 3.place mic between the woofer/tweeter. 4. put the speaker on a stand 1/3 in from a wall to minimize reflections from the desk, and other sources that can cause background comb filtering(I think that's what it's called), which might not seem like a big deal but once KZbin compresses it, softer things do get louder. I'd say these three links are the quickest way to hearing the difference between the speakers, though it's distorted by the factors above. 1:02:53 1:05:10 1:07:23 It seems to me that the stock pair were a little tubby. Your semi stock ones were a little clearer. The ones with the subs in them were a bit crispier, not sure if that's good or bad.

[@j.t.cooper2963]

I bought a pair of those back in 1979. Man $50 bucks was a lot of money back then. It's not shit now.

[@JesusSaves86AB]

Man I remember an NES brand new for $50 back in 91

[@johnny79309]

I was making big money working at a mine site in northern ontario my hourly wage was 3.75 and a litre of gas was 16 cents

[@w.rustylane5650]

Great video; I really enjoyed this one. The stock speakers sounded the best to me.

[@zech7459]

yeah the stockd are super good

[@sandyshoremann7524]

I have a spare driver for Minimus 7 in my parts cabinet which I bought 35 years ago :) When you were discussing x-over design and speaker substitution, I didn't see or hear any mention of efficiency of the drivers. Most small air suspension woofers with FA resonance @ 90Hz are in the 86dB / watt range where the small cloth or plastic dome tweeters are usually above 90dB. So regardless of your impedance curve measurements, there is a requirement for padding the tweeter with a power resistor to level the frequency response, OTW the range above crossover point will be shelved up by 3-5 dB or so depending on baffle size. I have preferred the very common plastic Audax 010 with phase plug over ho-hum cloth or plastic domes which have horrendous breakup modes and that pesky 8-10Khz sizzle. Also the usable response before cone breakup of the mid-woofer will determine the x-over point then the appropriate sized tweeter shall follow. The Minimus mid-woofers were excellent in their day for smooth midrange response and can likely go with NO inductor so as not to introduce phase rotations in the critical midband. A small tweeter will need at minimum a 1st order butterworth network then the unit can be connected in phase with the mid/woofer to prevent the crossover point suckout notch. Thanks for the Video, xraytonyb ! - Sandy

[@todd4freeusa]

Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to show your work!

[@johncunningham5435]

I agree with you Tony! number 3 is the clear winner, very nice demonstration of speaker compliment, crossover design, and cabinet volume.

[@mikesmuseum]

I'm a big fan of P.E. They are awesome. So glad you did a video on this device!!! I've been wanting one of those DATS kit for a while, because I have a lot of drivers with unknown specs. This is so cool and extremely useful!

[@mikesmuseum]

The PC105's #2 sounded great, but that last set #3 had better separation and punch, but was missing the mids that #2 had, being a full range driver. Great video comparison!

[@nikoladivic2786]

Thank you very much .Always is nice to see your videos, and your work, nice to teach us.Best regards from Croatia

[@sincerelyyours7538]

Thanks for the detail, I finally now know how to design crossover circuits. The last time I built a pair of speakers was back in my dorm room in the mid '70s. Used a pair of 12 watt 12" combination speakers I bought for something like $12 each at Lafayette Radio before they went belly up. Used an article in Popular Electronics for the resonance and volume formulas. Hooked them up to an old car stereo that I had filched off my father's '71 Ford Country Squire station wagon before he sold it for a song due to the huge drop in value gas guzzling cars with big V8 engines had suffered during the 1970s Oil Crisis. Anyway, the speakers sounded great and I used them until I bought my first real component system in the late '80s. For what it's worth, the three test recordings you made all sounded the same to me, but the final virgin MP3 cut at the end of the video sounded the best on my Altec Lansing computer speakers that are themselves going on 15 years of age. Don't know what that means except that maybe my ears are aging along with my equipment...

[@ghostownaproach]

I love how my M7s sound on my patio with a small subwoofer for barbeques.

[@lord_doomsday]

I totally agree with you,that the last set of speaker sounded the best well done.

[@paulthesurfer7470]

All well and good, but how about showing us how you got the mesh off the front of the bloody thing in the first place....

[@vincentrockel1149]

You just need to get something that will fit in the little holes and pry up along the edge and work it around should pop right out.

[@gillesthibodeau7078]

Very nice video. Really like the DATS . No 1 -2 had grills on not no 3. I took the grills off my M7's. Softer, more detailled and natural sound. I learned from watching your video. Thank you!

[@natebot321]

They way you explain things make it so easy to understand and follow along, even as someone who is relatively inexperienced with this more technical side of things. You are also excellent at operating the camera-- something that many other KZbinrs in this segment don't do well.

[@markericwhite879]

You’re watching the wrong content creators if you’re complaining about low quality videography. Most every KZbinr worth watching is proficient or better at setting up shots. That’s KZbin 101 stuff.

[@gustercc]

natebot321 well, there ya go. The whole universe explained by another “know -it-all” in the YT comments section. Thanks weasel fish.

[@grahamamorrisonsr1135]

Thanks for this video, it was intriguing and educational. I own probably ten pairs of Minimus 7’s. I have five each in my two 5.1 surround sound systems. I shopped for a pair of small extension speakers back in the seventies. I listened to these and some much larger small Advents. These blew away the Advents in overall sound and imaging and stage depth. My love affair with Minimus Sevens began that way. I agree, the third iteration sounded better to me. I listened on ear buds to avoid coloration from my own speakers. The bass was tighter, and more detailed. One of the great strengths of these speakers is the fact they just roll off at the deep bass, and do not attempt to do what they cannot. After the initial success of this model, Radio Shack came out with newer versions which were all inferior to the Sevens. They were attempting to increase the bass response, and screwed up the sound. Your adaptation was a pleasant surprise, it did NOT screw up the sound of the best speakers Radio Shack ever made. I would appreciate your comments on imaging and sound stage, as ear buds do not allow for hearing those characteristics. Thanks again, an intriguing and educational video about some great little speakers. PS Add a subwoofer, and you’ve got an excellent full range system

[@andreweh4]

Maybe it was the mic but I found that the original stock set were more balanced and clean sounding overall. The modified two had more base but the mids sounded less clean and somewhat muddy. I will keep mine original. By the way I own the Minimus 7 W or wood cabinet models and I think they sound even better than the metal cabinet ones. Just my opinion for what it is worth

[@ChonkTek]

The differences everyone hears between these and every other model is attributed to other overlooked and significant (but insignificant to 99.9999% of the population) variables during the manufacturing and assembly process.

[@deanhalleck5738]

Thank you for testing the different woofers !!! - I will try the ND105-8 Speakers i my Mi imus7s !

[@powerguymark]

I'm a fan too. I'm leaving the original drivers in mine because they're all in good shape. Just getting rid of the stock 4.7 Uf cap. Only test equipment I have are my own ears and unfortunately at my age they don't do highs very well so I'm not sure what the end result will be. Still fun to tinker around with this stuff again.

[@jimthvac100]

@@powerguymark Don't get rid of the cap but replace it with a new one. Those caps go bad after a while. need the cap to protect the tweeter from low frequencies and gives those frequencies to the 4"

[@Robbie66dj]

Hey Tony, I agree, speaker #3 was the best of the bunch, came out nicely, nice and clear sound. That little Dayton driver is great for what it is, and for the price.

[@RONWOLPA]

Very interesting , thank you for posting !

[@bradmcclure4945]

very cool thank you for the excellent demo

[@hagbard72]

Had some of those in the late 70s and early 80s. probably still had them up till the 2000s.

[@patb5266]

The original model of those kicked butt, we couldn't believe them the first time my friends and I heard them.

[@martinchamberlain8948]

Great video, very informative...thank you!

[@MichaelLivingston-me]

I liked what I heard from the ND105-8 mid-bass speakers in your video. I could tell there was a better bottom end, and even though I'm not listening through my own Minimus 7 speakers, there was an eveness in the midrange. In all 3 comparisons, the highs sounded the same, as expected. I own a pair of these speakers. I also own the slightly larger RCA vented speakers. I believe they had the same tweeter with a slightly larger cabinet and a 5 inch full range driver. Your video has helped me decide to take these smaller speakers to the next level.

[@Freskoeh]

One of my clients just gave me a set of 7s and minimus 11s with a realistic receiver I don’t know they were sought after until I looked it up. I can’t wait to hook it up

[@abirdman53]

Interesting your recording setup (60” between spkrs and 72” from mic) corresponds nicely to my 2.1 rig at home. I liked the middle pair (P105 or something?) where I heard much more airy middle. Thanks for your videos. They’re priceless!

[@johnwagner800]

xraytonyb, Not a question, more of a statement. Sorry I’m so late to the game here…I think you are exactly correct, in my opinion. The last set of speakers are the best sounding. The stock set had the bass drum sounding kind of muddy with just a thump sound each time the bass drum was beat. The second set sounded better on the bass drum, but sounded weak in the midrange just when the song went into it’s crescendo towards the end. The final set, the set with the sub woofer, the set that wouldn’t allow the grill covers to be put back on, sounded really good in all respects, I mean really good, that I can hardly believe they are these small speakers. Thanks for another great video. I hope you and all of yours are doing well. I was very sorry to hear about Bella. We went through the same last June with our Brodie. She was a miniature Jack Russell and was the love of our lives as well. Take care- John Wagner

[@powerguymark]

I'm using these to try out different speaker placements in my Dolby Atmos/ DTSX/Auro height channels. There seems to be quite a bit of discrepancy between these different formats regarding speaker placement so I'm just experimenting to see what I hear with my own ears. THX recommends 80 HZ and although these are rated down to 50 they start rolling off slightly before 80. Thankfully I can set the frequency above the roll-off point so they'll stay clean and tight. So this video is still relevant in my book. Thanks for sharing.

[@MichaelBeeny]

An interesting project Tony, obviously the impedance of the speaker is important to allow the amplifier to transfer power to the speaker efficiently . However the impedance has little to do with the frequency response of the individual drivers or the complete box response. I appreciate to measure frequency response takes specialised equipment and the room and the speaker location will play a large part in how the speaker sounds. The metal cone unit is not really made to extend much higher than 1khz and coupling this to a tweeter like the one used, should really cross over at about 3khz is pushing thing a bit, probably why you had issues with matching impedance. Using only a capacitor in series with the tweeter lowers it's power handling quite a bit. The last thing you need is bass going into the HF unit.

[@endall39]

Another thing that makes the DATS v2 useful is when tuning a ported enclosure. The dip in the impedance response shows the tuning frequency of the port. You can play with ports until you get just what you want. I used mine to tune a DIY 2.1 bluetooth speaker to 39Hz. All the calculations didn’t help as much as actually measuring the tuning frequency. Great result! If you’re thinking about it, just buy it.

[@lingcod91]

Great little speakers. Wish I'd kept mine.

[@russellhltn1396]

I may have to put that tester on my Christmas list. There's some Altec speakers I want to test. Altecs always seem to be picky about the amp that drives them. I've always suspected it's a complex impedance (lots of phase shift) that some amps have a hard time dealing with. I'm not too sure about using a zobel to try an flatten impedance. I'd think the purpose is to try and prevent highs from getting into the woofer so both are not' trying to reproduces sounds at higher frequencies. I mean, I see the attraction of flatter impedance under the theory that it would translate into a flatter sound (assuming the function of electrical energy to sound energy is reasonably flat), but a zobel networks lowers the impedance and burns up the energy in the resistor rather than in the driver(s) creating sound. So it may flatten the impedance, but I'm not sure as it flattens the actual sound.

[@arsinoeivlostprincess4228]

Yes it did sound best with the last set. I replaced a woofer in one of those units a while back. It had a large magnet. it was large enough to affect the volume size of such a small cabinet. Which affected the bass. I rebuilt my Ar4s and didn't get good bass until I used Thiel dynamics to select a woofer to match cabinet volume. Great presentation, Thanks I learned. I have a pair of 77's

[@interlinkplus8236]

When we were young heathens we'd have beer parties in the woods. I had a Hornet wagon with a set of these in the very back, I would open the rear hatch, flip the speakers on the mounts and they sounded like they were right next to you 200 feet away...they really liked the open air!

[@kylemccourt663]

they totally do! I have a pair mounted under the soffits of my garage for yard tunes. The detached garage works as the bass box and these do a fine job of filling in the mids and highs outside

[@jacobdowler1]

very long but very good. cool video, thanks Tony. until next time. Peace.

[@RICKRATT1]

I've had mine for 30 yrs, still really good speakers for what they are.

[@alangrant5684]

Mine since '78 and mounted in vehicle at the time. Still sound great. Keepers.

[@afistfulofpimples1745]

I've had mine for 48 years.

[@marcinturkey7231]

I remember selling these back in the day In the UK, nice speakers as I remember.

[@rakitakhan]

I have a pair of Minimus 7W's. I'm going to try this mod. Thx !

[@robertcartier5088]

Love my Minimus 7 's ! Mine have the walnut enclosure, not aluminum. I always perceived a slight difference in the sound between the wood and aluminum Minimus 7's... The metal ones sounded tinny to me. Maybe it was just my imagination. Anyway, very informative video! Thanks for sharing your experience!

[@joseph9770]

I think they got it right with the first set, working with what they had at that size and price point. The last pair do sound more pleasant though with subdued mids and maybe a little more brightness on the top. Just my 2c. :-)

[@gmcjetpilot]

I have four of these in white I have been hording. I just hooked up two of them to a Class D blue tooth amp from China and it sounds amazing stock. I might modify the other two, but for now I enjoy them. As stated below my mike young, upgrading the bipolar with nice film cap of 4uf or 4.7uf.

[@shaun9107]

I always let my taste pick my sound . sience loves to argue with us , That was a DEEP video

[@antraciet]

Exactly Shaun.

[@PurpleDreki]

Decent speaker. Had a pair for many years. The third pair sound great. I can hear better bass!

[@justins.1283]

I still have to pair of those Minimus 7 speakers and I really like them along with a set of Memorex copies that are almost identical except for the name on the grill all of those were excellent speakers for their time but I may try the crossover modification on a pair of the stock ones just for the fun of it

[@mortlach186]

I liked your video and a lot of the responses to it. If know one suggested it yet, I would have compared all of speakers with the grilles off. The metal grilles can really affect the sound. Oh and I just blew a bass driver in one of mine the other night with a sort of impractical amplifier combination with them but I wanted to here just how good these little speakers make music.

[@joewilson2258]

Out of the three speakers three is fairly better than the first set but the second set was actually doing the best at reproduction of the music .

[@jzannieri]

Tony: When you show the graph with the little rubber-surround subwoofer at 50:15, you are getting a bulge at the low end of the impedance curve between about 30 and about 90 Hz. This is caused by leakage around the edge of the little woofer. The leakage approximates a port, affecting the frequency response of the speaker system, which the Dayton tester does not measure. My suggestion would be to stick the small woofer to the front of the box with some RTV sealant to get a leak free seal. This would improve the frequency response of the modified system.

[@endall39]

I enjoyed this video. I would have loved to see you measure at each stage with and RTA to show what the frequency response curve looked like compared to the impedance curve. To me, that would make sense in addition to subjective listening. Are you set up for that? All you need is a decent mic calibrated to an iPad or laptop and a free app.

[@sandyshoremann7524]

Anyone recall the a/d/s (Braun) L200 ? It was five times the price but with three times the performance of a Min 7. Of course Rogers LS3/5A and Kef Reference 101 were the "top dogs" in mini monitors back in the late '70's amongst the audiophiles and Location Recording Engineers. - Cheers! Sandy

[@SamFirthDesigner]

I picked up some Braun Output C and have just started the micro speaker lore. The Brauns are brilliant

[@johnsweda2999]

I think the last one is probably the best with the extended base units, but bit too bright sounding on KZbin a 1 ohm or 1.2 ohm resistor on the tweeter should help give the Bass Driver more gravitas even on the others would help the second one sounded out of phase.

[@stevedamas3412]

I installed these mods and I am very pleased with the results, thank you very much. Do you have a crossover design and speaker replacement for Minimus 11s?

[@g.fortin3228]

Pretty nice .. I need some small test speakers, if i can find a pair of these cheap I'll take your queue and do the mod. I only wish the same driver was still available ! they dont seem to be there anymore.

[@jked7463]

There is reason realistic used a 2nd order x-over on the tweeter. The 2nd order protects the tweeter better. The closed in sound was probably an acoustic phase problem. If you shift the low pass and high pass networks, the impedance response will flatten out and the tweeter will handle it's lower frequencies better. You realy need to combine the data with a frequency response (Omni mic) measurement to get best results

[@1959Berre]

I have built many sets of rather large speakers over the years. This test device looks interesting. Thank you for presenting it; I guess I'll buy one.

[@ThePauly901]

just found you, great vid

[@mantolaman]

Excellent presentation. Just wondering if you actually listened to this comparison on KZbin and had any comments as to the difference between it and your personal observations without the recorded version.

[@cliffbyers1997]

I loved your video and decided to buy the materials to make your Realistic Minimus 7 / Dayton ND105-8 variant a try. NIFTY! How are yours holding up?? I work with HH Scott tube units. Thanks xraytonyb.

[@sgtpepper1138]

Just found 4 of Minimus 7s at Goodwill for $5 a piece. 2 black, and 2 white, gonna test them soon.

[@rostlaur]

Excellent video and work that you have done on this project. My Minimus 7s will now be Maximus 7s thanks to your brilliant work. I am strongly considering buying a DATS V2 unit. Everything I have read on the net is unanimous; this is a fantastic unit the software being so powerful. At 1:01:56 when you start the test results the text on screen shows: Speakers at 60” apart. It seems more like 6” (inches) am I wrong? Also the distance for the microphone at 72”or 6 feet are you sure? I purchased my pair of Minimus in the very early 70s and still like those like they are one of the best values for the price I ever purchased in audio.

[@georgebliss964]

As previously stated,an even impedance does not mean an even frequency response. A single dual coned driver may be pretty flat frequency wise,but the impedance will increase with frequency due to the inductive reactance of the voice coil. It would be interesting to make a small anechoic chamber using a foam lined box with a microphone fitted,and then plot the frequency response. I thought the original speakers were the least muddy and had more sparkle than the others. This might be due to the lighter paper cones providing faster transient response.

[@ryszard-j-k]

I am curious what Tony thinks about the modified speakes now? What is the opinion after 6 years? Still in the use as part of the bench?

[@andrewgillis8572]

@xraytonyb Surely x the grilles should be left off, to favor this tweeter? and should the boxes not be bookshelfed IE set on their sides, so that tweeters are out, not up? I would also say 5 ft separation is far too much! but yes do agree with this material the tonality was best on the last pair last question did you add damping material, coulda been a lot denser stuff to try?

[@chaseleim4773]

The influence you speak of is acoustic loading, also you spoke on ohm rise and drop most people call it box rise, I call it coil rise because it not because of a box, when speaker is playing a.given frequency,ohm changes, your box will affect this by decrease or increasing ohm at a specific frequency

[@socksumi]

Take the coil off the tweeter leg and put it in series with the woofer leaving the tweeter with just the single capacitor. Nicer balance with less harshness at crossover point. A friend showed me this mod.

[@jeffm2787]

REW can do the same with impedance graphs and way more. Really you need to do an outdoor test with a calibrated mic to see where you really stand. Anechoic chamber of course would be the best, but not many of us have access to those. Free air outdoor can be good enough.

[@ivanpolik2782]

the 3rd pair are the best

[@0n596]

Oh, not sure if the tweeter is bad - might be the stock crossover that gave up. Any suggestion where to by a new crossover since I am a novice in soldering and electrics?

[@horusfalcon]

Good stuff. Does the Dayton Audio Tester software only run under Windows? I agreed with you, for what that's worth, but I'm a bass player.

[@Force05289]

Funny just took these things off my wall and now i’m cleaning them. The original owner of my house Installed them.

[@arv8576]

This is old video, but ... Comparing the sound from these three pairs of speakers, I liked the second set the most. The original ones play a little too flat, and those equipped with a subwoofer are clearly tired in the low frequencies. With the third set, the guilt probably lies in the type and size of the housing. Interesting if someone build a DIY 'package' from an MDF, bigger by one and a half liters, and bring out an additional Bass Reflex channel to this hardware - what happens? I think then this set would play best. I'm using ours European equivalent for Your's Minimus 7 called Canton GL 260. Not bad German bookshelf speakers. I'm glad that I'm buy one pair of them long time ago.

[@markericwhite879]

I had the RadioShack/RCA branded version of this speaker up until a couple of days ago. I had broke the speakers down to use the drivers to build a Bluetooth speaker that would house both of the drivers and both tweeters along with on board amplification. It’s cold out and my shop isn’t heated so I brought the drivers inside my home along with a few other things I needed to complete the electronics. While watching some KZbin videos I noticed that I didn’t hear my little boy anymore. When he gets quiet that means something is about to get destroyed, already has been destroyed or he’s looking for something to, you guessed it, destroy. I I walk into the kitchen, where the plastic storage bin with my supplies were and there he sits right next to it with the drivers in pieces in front of him. He’s smiling a huge smile and says “speakers!” He got a screw from the bin and used it to tear the surround off both speakers along with the dust caps and in the process he ripped the leads loose and demolished the voice coil of one of the drivers. I’m still pissed but mostly at myself for not securing the bin better. He’s a master at getting into things and also a master of destruction.

[@xraytonyb]

Just one of many stories we could exchange. I guess that's what they mean by the "joy of parenthood"! ;))

[@shageevideo]

any instructions on how to modify the cross over the way he did? I have the same looking one he has to start with

[@ltronics62]

Since these are sealed enclosures, what do you think of modding one pair to add a passive radiator to the rear of the speaker. My guess is it would extend the low frequency range down to around 50 Hz. I don't have any R/S Minimus series speakers, but I am planning to buy some Hammond cast aluminum cases and build a pair of Minimus-like speakers soon. I am considering using PR's on my homebrews.

[@xraytonyb]

I've heard some smaller bluetooth speakers with passive radiators that sounded pretty good, so I'm sure the idea would work. You would have to use the correct woofer and passive radiator. If you decide to try it, let me know how it works out. Thanks for the comment!

[@jasonbrindamour903]

Ok, I am a newbie to crossover circuits, and really still a newbie in electronics, but I remember seeing a review of those large *ss home amplifiers (the married couples) and I remember you speaking of the frequency that the transistors can operate. That brings to mind a couple questions. A: What would a higher frequency fet amplifier load to that cross over network (especially the inductor)? B: I wonder what the real readouts of that test dongle compare to the sweep of a nice function generator? C: (This sort of ties into the previous B question) Can I use my 105B Fluke scope or equivelent and a frequency generator to generate something to do the same? And it's funny because I use a stock set of those on a 50wrms amp as my middle surrounds because they were small but sound decent with power..I made a nice sideways mounted adjustable angle mount for them using copper plumbing tubing with black textured powder coat. Looks nice, sounds okay.

[@guillermocastilla6305]

Have you tried to run the record it's true apart metric analyzer I think did the change in sound it's because a little bit of lock in the meets more than any extra Bass anyway I have the Altec lansing version of those speakers in mine have problems producing base below 60 megahertz

[@saddle1940]

I know it's been a while, but I wonder if a major difference between text B and C was the removal of the grill. Also, I wonder what the original cones would have sounded like with improved crossovers.

[@gisellamanno562]

I AGREE !!

[@jzannieri]

When you actually fastened the little subwoofer at 59:00, you can see that the bulge in the impedance curve goes away completely Your response curves are impedance curves, which have nothing to do with audio frequency response curves, so they don't have anything to do with how the system actually sounds. Interesting videos, though. I watched them a couple of times.

[@14.1guy2]

Impedence is determined by frequency so.....

[@taineasy]

I preferred the original with pulp woofers. IMO the pulp driver gives a much more natural accurate frequency tone and timbre like my Focals and Tannoys do. Metal woofer sounded too bright, thin and exaggerated like a bad set of headphones. The best mod version of the minimus 7 I have heard had the original woofer coated with the "KEF coating" and the crossover set (4 uf mundorf cap )slightly higher than stock.

[@noelalejo1842]

Hello Sir, I have a large old advent speaker any plan doing modification for that speaker? Thks👍

[@turbojoe2]

Mr. Carlson? Is this you? Lab looks similar and the voice of course. Yep, Its YOU! I remember walking into Radio Shack and they sold all the drivers for their speakers. Specifically I remember the tweeter of this unit. I have a pair and damn there great for their size.

[@stefflus08]

Not in any way, shape or form ;)

[@barrychristiansen4579]

thx. for sharing! quit interresting. blessings

[@Vintageelectronics2296]

I love the stock sound best

[@wollaminfaetter]

How would you know?

[@bradmcclure4945]

is it possible to save the results of a test and compare side bt side another test?

[@paulstubbs7678]

The mid bass drivers seemed to have more bottom end, an issue with these (When I heard them in store years ago, I was disappointed) however the frequency response didn't seem as smooth as the others, like it had two peaks in it's response - kind of same as the impedance plot you made. There's probably nothing you can do given the small metal boxes.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Listening on my iPhone 6s absolutely no difference in sound but of course that’s to be expected. When I get home I’ll listen on IFI with the Burr-Brown DAC and my Sennheiser HD 800 and HD 650. I know I will hear a difference but unfortunately You Tube does compress there audio. The best way for you to get your audience to hear the difference if you record a FLAC file and release it so we can download it and then listen to a quality recording directly instead of through KZbin compression.

[@turbo2288]

What about frequency response?

[@mortlach186]

Have you tried any additional improvements since publishing this video?

[@TheMolacho1]

Installed FaitalPRO 5FE in my minnies.

[@HammyTechnoid]

I thought the 3rd one sounded best too

[@ltronics62]

BTW Did you ever come up with a way to put the speaker grill back onto the pair with the Neodym woofers?

[@xraytonyb]

NO. The excursion of the speaker would cause it to contact the grill.

[@ltronics62]

@@xraytonyb Would it work to epoxy a painted steel 1/2"x1/4" hex standoff on each corner of the speaker front face, then epoxy a painted magnet onto the grill corners.? www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-rare-earth-magnets-67488.html?_br_psugg_q=neodymium+magnets Maybe it would stick out too far and look weird.

[@0n596]

One of my original tweeters in the metal plate behaves all the sudden badly scratchy - any suggestion with what to replace that can fit?

[@afistfulofpimples1745]

Yes

[@justinangle3494]

I wonder if my little KLH speakers that look almost the same are a related product somehow or like a Chinese copy?

[@jked7463]

Did you break the speaker in by driving it with some pink noise for a while? It changes the results of your tests, especially theil small parameters. You can drive the two together, face the two together, and drive them out of phase. This will minimize sound produced while breaking them in.

[@gustercc]

Hey Tony - did you happen to upload a MOUSER list of parts for the custom X/R?

[@xraytonyb]

No I didn't. It's been a while since I did this video, but I think I might have had some of the parts in stock, but I don't remember for sure.

[@powerguymark]

@@xraytonyb thanks for sharing this video. I also enjoyed your videos on the JBL UREI amps as well and bought a couy to patch into my preamplifier outputs for my home theater. They're built like a tank and crank on my 4ohm front main speakers. I'm using these to try out different speaker placements in my Dolby Atmos/ DTSX/Auro height channels. There seems to be quite a bit of discrepancy between these different formats regarding speaker placement so I'm just experimenting to see what I hear with my own ears. THX recommends 80 HZ and although these are rated down to 50 they start rolling off slightly before 80. Thankfully I can set the frequency above the roll-off point so they'll stay clean and tight. So this video is still relevant in my book. Thanks for sharing.

[@BELGRANOization]

GREAT VIDEO. Are the Optimus Pro7 the same as the Realistic Minimus 7? They look identical...

[@CDJF1]

Yes the pro 7's are a later gen of the originals but with upgraded xover and more power handling. And ported in the back

[@nopochoclos]

@@CDJF1 Hello do you recomend the RCA 40-5002 i understand is the same as Pro-X44AV , sorry for my english.

[@peterjmcgee4680]

To be honest with you I think the last set of speakers for the best sounding

[@timw2407]

How about a cat. # for the caps/res or at least all values of said bits

[@stevesus3295]

With #3, how will the front grills fit on over the surround. ?

[@markodom7001]

They won't