Xterra Oil Pan Removal/Install | 1999-2004 V6 4WD

Learn how to remove the oil pan under you 3.3L V6 powered Nissan Xterra. Make sure to check out my other video on how to get the pesky differential out of the way first.
Oil Pan Seal: amzn.to/3ycV7J3
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[@triangles4467]

I just did this on my 2004. You don't need to cut welds or drop the front cross member. You just need to unbolt the passenger side diff mount. That allows enough room to drop the pan.

[@AdrianMorse42069]

Good to know. First time hearing about this being done like that!

[@bluegill2030]

So you don’t have to drop the front differential??? I need to do this repair on mine but trying to see different options

[@E5mma_combat]

Your giving alot of bad adivice on this over use of RTV needless cutting of pinch welds and when installing the frist seal gasket you cut it out knowing you had to hold it so it to tack on smfh ​@AdrianMorse42069

[@sencillo82]

Tnx for the video, this is by far the best detailed how to video I've seen, you showed every step, went above and beyond for all your viewers. 👏👏👏👏

[@joelpuac8453]

Thank you my brother for having a lot of patience to show all that experience that God comes to you in your life because you are a good person to share all that about the Mechanic

[@tinahartley2218]

Awesome video, enjoyed the details about the order of bolt install my friends is leaking between bell housing and pan, your attention to detail rocks, I'm a do herself and mechanics has always been my passion, retired from aeronautical foundry made alot of turbine blades for planes and military applications, thanks for video loved it.

[@XterraRob]

Started tackling this yesterday. Got diff out, steering system out, and starter removed. Decided to replace the pan all together based on your comment...not a job you want to do twice! Hoping to not keep frying starters and to not drip oil all over the drive way. Thanks again!

[@AdrianMorse42069]

No problem! It's definitely a job you want to do once for sure.

[@stevenlluketurco366]

Frying starters generally = passenger side valve cover gasket leaking. Tighten screws monthly (hand tight + a little).

[@johnl9135]

I have a 2003 4x4 Xterra and my rear main seal is leaking a little, but I've been driving it like that since I'd got it 4 years ago. Just needs to add like half quart every 3-4 weeks, also used Lucas Stop Leak every time I'd changed the oil. This engine is pretty reliable so far haven't had any major issue. Thanks for the video.

[@mattkroutil2270]

Acquired a 2004 V6 4x4 from the in laws and just started thinking about replacing the seals on the oil pan. Had no idea so much was involved. Thanks for the in depth how-to and will definitely be watching the front diff video too!

[@AdrianMorse42069]

One of the joys of these Nissan's. Very tightly packaged and over engineered!

[@badnewsbeaver]

Thanks dude, this video is going to be super useful on my $600 Xterra project.

[@faustogonzalez8397]

So Jhon how did your job go, I need to do my 2001 v6 Xterra. I'm doing the rear main crank seal as well, so tranny will be out at the time. Therefore will tackle the oil pan gasket while I'm in the area.

[@faustogonzalez8397]

do you have a 2WD or a 4WD, reason I'm asking is that mine is 2WD and I need to remove the Steering drag link in order for the Oil Pan to drop straight down and for easier installation. I was wondering, my Xterra front wheels will be on ramps at the time of oil pan gasket change cause I'll be doing the rear crank seal and tranny needs to be out. Do you know if I can remove my "Steering Drag link while the front wheels are resting on the wheel ramps, I'm concerned there will be on some tension/stress on the wheels if they're on the ramps and will be more difficult to remove the "Drag Link". Thanks.

[@badnewsbeaver]

@@faustogonzalez8397 Finished the job about a month ago. Should be much easier on the 2WD. I wouldn't do it on ramps, you have to be able to move the wheels to get the center link out. Even if you could get it out that way, I wouldn't trust the wheels to stay on the ramps straight. Did mine on 4 jack stands on semi flat ground. Good luck to you with the RMS and the rest of your truck

[@brassmule]

23:40 I use the same PermaTex Ultra Grey on all my oil pan gaskets - people don't always like the 24 hour cure time, but it's worth it. I've never had a leak and some of the gaskets are several years old at this point. Holds up as good as the seal from the factory did. Great video and thanks for sharing this. I looked at my neighbor's Xterra who wanted his oil pan leak addressed - figured it was at the end seals like yours leaked, too, that's what it looks like. Not a fun job to do, it seems, but not awful either.

[@thesetruths1404]

Great video. Just what I was looking for. I have a 98 Pathfinder 3.3L with a similar oil pump. It was an elderly couple's for 20 years. I don't think they used it much. Low miles, 6,000 a year average, and likely wasn't driven hard ever. I think they let oil sit in it and maybe their mechanic put snake oil in it as a sales pitch. There was gummy honey-colored stuff on the refill cap. Something is causing this Pathfinder to knock at startup for 3-4 seconds and then between 1,800 and 3,300 RPM. If coasting between 1800 and 3300, it ceases. I think I caught rod bearing wear early and I replaced them. And checked the mains. Mains were good. Two rods had mild wear. No slack or slope in anything. Metal flakes stopped appearing. But still the knock between those RPM. It runs perfectly, otherwise. And the body and interior is like new. So it's a nice one I'd like to keep long-term. What do you think about this idea? If the oil isn't changed well can the valve system in the pump stick or malfunction and cause oil pressure to be insufficient? The pressure is 100% consistently poor at startup for 3 seconds and under load between 1800 to 3300 RPM. Makes no sense, this loss of pressure at fixed time, other than faulty pump. I know there is also a pan gasket leak at the front and back. I thinned the oil as an experiment to see if pressure/noise changed and oil began quickly dripping from both ends of the oil pan when it was at warm idle. I thinned the oil 50% with motor flush, which is basically kerosene. I drained out two quarts and put in 2 quarts cleaner. So I have to pull the pan anyways to fix those leaks, so might as well pull inspect and replace the pump as well. Also have to check timing as well and swap all those parts as their age is unknown. The pressure problem was present before the leaks were noted. So the big leaks are new and the problem is the exact same. Do you know of a good oil pump replacement video of my motor or very similar? I found a timing kit one, but no oil pump.

[@AdrianMorse42069]

I don't know of a good video showing the oil pump replacement, but I would definitely have a look at the factory service manuals on Nico Club which should give you a good idea of what you're in for.

[@nichthompson]

That was great man. Step by step, and let us know about the real issues. Fantastic camera work getting into the right and tight spots.

[@AdrianMorse42069]

Thank you! I've noticed there isn't much content for first gen Xterra's so I'm trying to be as detailed as possible with this series.

[@CasterTown]

You can drop the cross member with the diff still attached. Its pretty easy that way. If you don't remove the cross member, you have to lift the engine. Problem is the FSM specifies to use the engine lift method, so the torque specs for those cross member bolts are nowhere to be found. I think I just gave them 70 ft/lbs.

[@tylerbishop4759]

When I put mine back I noticed a small opening on both sides for the gasket between the oil pan and the fly wheel. The gasket is in line with the holes but won't go any farther up. Will that be a problem? The openings are located on either side behind the brackets

[@Schnippen_Schnappen1]

What an absolute pain. I have to do this to my old school pathfinder and it’s pretty much the same setup 😢

[@XterraRob]

One more question I think I know the answer to: the transmission hardlines. Did you have to completely remove them to put the new pan in, or just the brackets that bolt into the oil pan, and flex them out of the way? I got my old pan removed, but it looks like it may be difficult to not smear the RTV when reassembling because the hardlines are close by. I may just need to practice the technique with the old pan first.

[@AdrianMorse42069]

I didn't remove them completely. I just removed/loosened all the brackets tieing them down and pushed them as far out of the way as I could with out damaging them. Didn't have too much of an issue getting the pan in place doing it that way.

[@MrBear670]

Hello Sir. After watching both videos Towards the end of "Panning for leaks". You mentioned that it would be better off removing the cross member along with the Dif. Would that be a better option? Thank you for the Awesome vid btw.

[@AdrianMorse42069]

I don't think it really makes a huge difference to getting the job done. If I remember correctly I think that would have made it easier in my instance since I didn't have a jack with a cradle to hold the diff while I lowered and raised it

[@MrBear670]

@@AdrianMorse42069 Thank you.

[@Z33Garage]

I wonder if the front crossmember removal is required for the RWD model.

[@thatsnotmyname4080]

it is

[@XterraRob]

Excellent video. Helps a ton. Thank you!

[@AdrianMorse42069]

Same to you for your videos!

[@CarlosDiaz-xt5vv]

Thanks

[@luckyacedelacruz4402]

Thanks for the video!

[@ohno541]

That bracket on the passenger side. The lower bolt that is inside the trans lines. How did you get to it? I’m guessing unbolt trans lines and move them a bit?

[@nickr7747]

If you had removed the mount on top of the crossmember, would that have given enough clearance to get the pan out?

[@scotthartfield9482]

Kick ass video. Thanks!

[@doomsayer559]

Dammit. I knew the differential was going to have to come out to do the pan seal. Sob.

[@faustogonzalez8397]

Thanks so much, GREAT video.

[@bluegill2030]

Sweet video! Appreciate it

[@jamesanthony4448]

Very informative is this the same for. a 02 frontier 4x4 3.3?

[@jeffreyw4866]

I have to do this to my 02 Frontier with VG33E & have a questions. If the 4x4 mounts/brackets on the cross member where not there, do you think the pan would have dropped clear without removing the cross member? My frontier is rwd only and it appears as if there is more then enough room to drop the pan without removing the cross member since non of that stuff is in the way. Just the center link up front & starter on the side to reach the bolts etc. But the manual is super vague in that it only seems to specify removal/installation for 4x4 models. Thanks

[@AdrianMorse42069]

That is a good question. I think it may be doable, but I really can't say for sure. If you can wiggle the pan out, I'd still be a bit concerned about getting it back in place once it's got sealant on it. If you do manage to do it with the cross member in place, please do share!

[@brettwilkie1455]

I have a 1st generation 2000 Frontier 2WD 5 speed, I wonder if your 2002 is the same underneath? Have you done the pan job yet and if so what did you have to remove? I don't want to lift the engine but it looks like it might be doable with the sway bar dropped and perhaps dropping one side of the steering link?

[@nosurfenougheddie]

Hey bro I have a 2wd xterra and was wondering the same thing. With 2wd you still need to remove center link and cross member, right?

[@mosinnagant76]

What are those tack welds needed for if they can be ground off? Does that affect the structural integrity? Are they supposed to help keep the bolts from shearing?

[@AdrianMorse42069]

Not entirely sure. They were only on certain years and people who have ground them off haven't had any issues over the years. You could always put another tack on there for peace of mind but not having them hasn't caused any issues from my research

[@eusebiogonzalez5866]

me gusta ber estos vídeos

[@E5mma_combat]

Did your oil all gunked up from so much RTV,That's a awful lot

[@jeffreyherrin8870]

Would it be possible to loosen the motor mounts and lift the engine up a little bit. Instead of cutting?

[@AdrianMorse42069]

I believe the factory service manual says something about lifting the engine up, but it involves removing your coolant lines and a bunch of other things. Check out Nicoclub for the factory service manuals. I find many people say doing it this way is much easier

[@antoniogerardolugomartinez2244]

Good Job 👍💯

[@cammk9415]

How long would you say it roughly took for you to drop the diff and oil pan?

[@AdrianMorse42069]

Maybe a couple hours. But I got lucky and none of the bolts fought me. I soaked them for a few days beforehand with PB. It's really not that difficult. Just awkward lowering the diff down.

[@cammk9415]

@@AdrianMorse42069 right on thanks man. I’m gonna be doing this on the weekend. Pre soaking everything this week aswell

[@lesrinehart933]

Praying mine doesn’t start to leak

[@ydocg6]

Take off the front diff mount 2 17mm bolts and it comes out

[@ggKampii]

Do you recommend replacing the pan as well? My pan is in good condition and I’m pretty sure it’s been replaced before

[@AdrianMorse42069]

I would just be really certain that the pan is flat around the surface that you apply the rtv. Not a job you want to be doing twice back to back!

[@XterraRob]

Was there a need to be on jack stands with wheels removed? Was planning on doing this soon and was thinking of just using oil change ramps for extra room to work.

[@AdrianMorse42069]

It's totally doable on ramps, but I find removing the center link is easier with the wheels out of the way.

[@XterraRob]

@@AdrianMorse42069 fair enough! Thanks for the response. I too have been putting this project off for too long.

[@AdrianMorse42069]

It's very satisfying to not see a pool of oil under the X. Well worth the effort!

[@XterraRob]

@@AdrianMorse42069 I don't even remember what that feels like...i will have to find a way to throw away all of my cardboard boxes lining my garage floor now :P. So weird!

[@jmclick.6349]

Amigo mi xterra es rwd, tu crees que sea mas fácil cambiar el oil pan?

[@gacastillo21]

Pienso que si sera mas facil porque las xterras rwd no tienen el diferencial delantero.

[@idris7910]

hi, what's the torque specs for the bolts around the oil pan?

[@AdrianMorse42069]

Hello! Check the video description for a link to the factory service manuals

[@paulairola7041]

I noticed you removed the front differential / Was it required to be removed ?

[@AdrianMorse42069]

It is required in order to give enough room to drop the oil pan. A bit of a pain in the butt for sure but overall it's not that difficult with basic tools.

[@paulairola7041]

@@AdrianMorse42069 ok thanks for heads up

[@AdrianMorse42069]

@@paulairola7041 Check out my other video on how to remove the diff if you havent already.

[@juanpuga6609]

Cadena de tiempo

[@pastormichaelhibbertminist7486]

How did you get that diff back in

[@AdrianMorse42069]

I replied to your other comment

[@markclarke8938]

you didnt show how to drop alxe !

[@E5mma_combat]

This video is all whacked out you dont have to cut pinch welds and he used to much RTV,i suggest you watch @xterra robs install video for more clarity...

[@AdrianMorse42069]

It depends. Some Nissan's have welds you need to cut and some don't. And this is definitely not too much rtv. Xterra rob is the OG for sure though.

[@nataliemontanez8188]

How much that cost?

[@AdrianMorse42069]

The seal was about 10 bucks and the pan was around 80 Canadian.

[@lesrinehart933]

Damn

[@alonsogomez7174]

🍀☘️⭐🌟⭐🌟🌟👍

[@cooterstanbro6246]

man i need your help, i have an 02 xterra, i'm having some oil leaks,put bluedevil in a couple of days ago and bow the leak is worse. i have pics and videos, i would love to get your email.