Yamaha CA-1010 Integrated Amplifier - Overhaul (Ep. 191)

[@Elluvis72]

Brushed metal, wood panels, vu meters: i love it!

[@craigm.9070]

Very robust build quality on those old Yamaha's. Thanks for taking the time to show the troubleshooting and failed components. I wish all technicians were as thorough as you are; your customer will really enjoy the amplifier.

[@SDsailor7]

You are an excellent teacher! Thank you

[@TrevorsBench]

There is some debate on that but thank you!

[@michaelcarey]

Hi Trevor, new subscriber. Excellent video, your attention to detail is second to none! I've worked on a friends Yamaha CA-810 in the recent past. I found the majority of the original Japanese capacitors to be within spec, but some were way off. At the start of the video you mentioned the screws and that it looked like someone use a "dull screwdriver", I would bet that they weren't using a JIS screwdriver! 99.9% of Japanese equipment like this will use metric fasteners with a JIS head. It looks like a Philips but a Philips screwdriver will not seat properly and will cause damage to the head. JIS screws can usually be identified with a small dot stamped on the head between the flutes. I did training at the JRC (Japan Radio Company) factory in the early 90s and was told most sternly that I MUST use a JIS screwdriver at all times.

[@TrevorsBench]

Hi Michael, thanks for your comments. It's not always apparent which screwdrivers are JIS or not. I agree, the screwdriver must fit properly or you'll damage the screws

[@adalbertus777]

Excellent job & vid Trevor. Thanks for sharing with us your thoughts and tips on how you approach a repair. This is truly priceless and can save lot of time, especially for people like me who just from time to time repair something. You've made a big smile on my face with your comment about watching somebody's cleaning a pcb :). My almost 6 years old son does love watching me cleaning the board once soldering is complete and sometimes asks me if he can do it with me too ;) So, my guess is there is something special about this part of work. Greetings from Poland!

[@TrevorsBench]

Thanks for tuning in and the comments. I sometimes find cleaning up after a repair is the most satisfying part of the job

[@GREENTICKETRO]

Excellent!The best technician from Edmonton!

[@SergZak2023]

Thank you, Trevor👍 I don't know about the others here but I am on my third watch-through on this one...and I've done the same (if not more) on probably all the others in your catalog. Really appreciate the great content you create. 👍👍

[@TrevorsBench]

Thanks Serg for your continued support, much appreciated

[@sirsuse]

Another great video!

[@Poppinwheeeeellllllieeeeez]

Great vid Trevor. I did one of these in May, not as through as you however. I have CA 1010, and my CT 1010 separates as my master system in use with a Yamaha YP-800 turntable. Took me 12 years of hunting. I have it in use with 4 NS-690's.

[@brianwood5220]

Really enjoyed that Trevor. I did have something planned for this morning, but when I saw you had posted, I just couldn't help myself. Thanks for sharing.

[@CharlieParkour]

Fridays at 9pm MST… set your calendar

[@TurntableGuy]

That's a beauty!

[@a.f.1587]

1:38:30 isn't just easier to put a small bridge rectifier there? That's what i did when i upgraded my vintage gear to LED backlight.

[@dublegi-hr8kq]

Hi Trevor, love your videos. One suggestion. You can get light bulbs like the ones you replaced from model train shops. They look identical and come in 12V, 16V and probably other options.

[@alexismethenitis]

Great work as always! Thanks.

[@martinda7446]

Trevor, I've just found your bench. How had I missed it? Nicely done with attention to detail and lovely results. No criticism at all! I've been in the trade over 40 years so I would tell you if I spotted something 😸 (Mind you I'm only at 32 mins...).

[@TrevorsBench]

Welcome to the channel, I hope you find your stay entertaining or helpful

[@martinda7446]

@@TrevorsBench Absolutely. Both, its wonderful.. I may have come across as a know it all, not my intention.

[@SDsailor7]

@@TrevorsBench At what microfarads % higher can a capacitor go? before you call it bad? Thank you

[@SDsailor7]

@@TrevorsBench For the power supply boards do you use general purpose caps? You said that audio grade are not needed in power supply boards? Thank you

[@TrevorsBench]

@@SDsailor7 Generally 15%-20% is my threshold. Caps that measure higher than advertised are generally bad because the high reading comes from DC leakage that tricks the meter to display more than the actual capacitance. Caps that measure lower than advertised are generally drying up and losing capacitance due to age, heat or electrolyte leakage

[@TheBrforsberg]

Another nice job Trevor. You sure put alot of work into a repair. You must make less than minimum wage when you are all done. One FYI at 1:50:00 in the video you were adjusting the Bias of the top amplifier in Class AB mode (normal). You adjusted it for 2.2 mV and not 22 mV as I read the meter. I assume you fixed that later off camera. Probably does not matter much anyway. Anyways thanks for another great video and keep them coming.

[@TrevorsBench]

Thanks for pointing this out to me. We all make mistakes and I've made my fair share. I did tune it up after But I don't recall it being out by a factor of 10. I will check it again but the amp sounds fantastic right now.

[@bobbiedixon7113]

How do you get the lamp holder out so you can replace them at the 1:35:25 mark?

[@Electrondivize]

I am working on CA-810 Today interesting to find you working on a 1010 I dont know about you but im not a fan of fuse resistors I replace with just the resistors.

[@marcump]

I have an A-1000 and A-1020 I'd like to have a recap job on. I'm not sure where to get all the parts. I found one location online but when trying to select the kits there was no way to make a purchase. I have service manuals but they are photo copies and difficult to read the parts lists.

[@clementquan5130]

Hi Trevor, I recently got my hand on a Yamaha Ca 1010. One problem there is a fuse that is blown and I cannot figure out what is causing the issue. The fuse is on the Power Supply Board F402. Any idea what could be the reason? Thanks a lot !

[@TrevorsBench]

Hi Clément, The fuse F402 is part of the +B3 power supply (8.9v) It appears this power supply feeds some relays on the function board and tone control board. The +B3 supply uses brown wires and comes off the power supply board at +B3. If you remove this brown wire from the power supply board and your short goes away, then the sort is somewhere along this line. Follow it and disconnect it at those boards to determine which board has a short. Process of elimination. If you remove the +B3 wire and your short is still there, then the short is in the power supply board. If so check D401 (bridge), D403, C403 (10uF), C401 (220uF) and transistors TR402-TR401 A full schematic can be found at Hifiengine, this will be essential for tracing the fault. Hope this helps, good luck!

[@clementquan5130]

Hi @@TrevorsBench, thanks a lot for the tips. I have found out what was the reason for the blown fuse. It was actually the LED bulbs at the meter's that were doing a short circuit. The problem I have now is that only one channel is working. When plugged, only the right input is working, but strangely the meter on the left and the left output speaker is getting signal. There is no signal on the left input (no sound nor movement of the meter). Could you guide me toward the potential issue? I really appreciate your help!

[@clementquan5130]

Little update, even when I am using the amp as power amp (coupler switch off) there is no signal in the right channel. Thank you in advance for the help.

[@TrevorsBench]

@@clementquan5130 Maybe the switch needs a good clean

[@clementquan5130]

Hi@@TrevorsBench , it was the bloody switch. I have cleaned it and polished the connetors and now everything is working fine !! Thanks a lot =)

[@PeruByRoad]

Hi Trevor, how much this kind of service could cost? Im interested in buying this amp .

[@chrisdado]

Nice work Trevor, lovely amp. The problem I have with Chinese cap' brands is many are transient. In business producing decent spec' caps, then vanished or re-branded a year or so later. I don't trust brands like that. The only semi off-brand caps I use are from Teapo, Samxon, OST, and Samwah, at least these have been around long enough to gain some reputation.

[@HM55-77]

Got one purchased in Summer of 1977, fresh out of college used my 2nd paycheck. I think i paid about $630.00. Had is refurbished last year. Added a Mojo 2 DAC, took sound to a different level

[@CharlieParkour]

For the international viewers, FUBAR means F*cked Up Beyond All Recognition. As a fellow Canadian it is my privilege to provide this translation. 2:00:08

[@martinda7446]

PS. So, anyone watching in who doesn't really have the first clue, but owns a classic piece of Hi-Fi, and needs the best care, this service is as good as it gets. Have no fear. Over 40 years in the Hi-Fi industry.

[@sirsuse]

Question for you Trevor. I'm shopping for a desoldering iron and/or station. What are you using and how do you like it? Thanks!

[@TrevorsBench]

Lots of manufactures make good soldering irons. It's a personal preference when it come to irons, much like buying a car. They all start and drive fine but we all have a preference, loyalty or bias to a brand. Look for features that appeal to you, ease of cleaning and cost of consumables. I can't really answer your question because I've never used some brands. I'm using a ancient Weller DS600 desoldering iron and while it works, it's difficult to get parts for. Check out Dave Jones's channel, I think he's done reviews on all the big players

[@sirsuse]

@TrevorsBench Thanks Trevor. Appreciate the reply. Keep up the great content. 👍

[@davidyoung7470]

Which province are you located in?

[@tee-jaythestereo-bargainph2120]

I wish I never sold my CA-810 truly a hidden Gem I almost liked as much as my New AS1200 thanks for the video And I liked better than my Marantz 2270 and Yamaha AS 801 - but me Sansui au717 yeah thats my Master restored and resto modded Hot Rod

[@roroseppel2077]

The new filter caps 22000µF are only rated at 85°C, isn'it a pity ?

[@fireantsarestrange]

It's Yamaha. Probably better than most anything else made. It's worth repair. I like that stuff more than other said quality equipment. I have mostly Yamaha stuff. Including instruments.

[@ian-c.01]

Yamaha have a very good reputation for quality audio and instruments for a very good reason ! Their motorbikes are not so well respected though, I prefer Honda myself.

[@f114163]

I often find that manufacturers themselves alter component values. Sometimes as a modification. Other times I suspect the production line runs out of a value and an engineer says "put these in instead, it won't matter" just to keep the line going. That or a buyer finds they can get 100,000 of one value for less cost than the specified value and again an engineer says "fine, it won't matter".

[@SergZak2023]

Not sure what the synthetic grease is that you use in the syringe (I know you've mentioned in another video but no idea which one) but It looks very similar to what is called Super Lube Synthetic Grease (at least here in the US). Maybe try a tube out...I've used it for many years (10+) and it's great stuff. Could very well be the same.

[@TrevorsBench]

Type of grease isn't as critical as some people think. Something is better than nothing. For general purpose use I find the synthetic grease I buy from China works fine. Time will tell

[@Xpatriots3232]

I would say some of the caps popped and they replaced the ones that needed it only

[@dikludas]

Excellent 👍🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

[@SDsailor7]

I mostly order from mouser and i am used to their website not so much with digikey's

[@TrevorsBench]

I tried Mouser for the first time the other day. Slightly better prices IMO. Both are good sources for parts

[@SDsailor7]

@@TrevorsBench Once i get used to Digikey website i will order from them parts that i cannot find at Mouser.

[@borlibaer]

how & where can I get good but cheap capacitors from China ?

[@Poppinwheeeeellllllieeeeez]

Ali express

[@TrevorsBench]

Look at LCSC. I buy most of my caps and transistors there along with a lot of other stuff. I still buy at Digikey if I need something fast or maybe LCSC does not stock. The price comparisons are shocking Avoid Aliexpress or ebay, there are good parts there but they sell a high % of factory rejects or counterfeits at prices that seem too good to be true

[@borlibaer]

@@TrevorsBench thank you very much for this information. looks like LCSC are located in Düsseldorf as well, but they sell via distributors like DigiKey etc. .I will check. Basically there are too many firms between manufacturer and end-customer / consumer "making money" just by digital processing.

[@borlibaer]

@@TrevorsBench ... the common problem in today' world. Skilled, educated, experienced, diligent, hard working, honest people no longer have a chance to survive by their work.

[@Andrew-x7q8c]

I would go to Mouser, the Chinese caps will fail quickly, buy reputable parts. Buy cheap, buy twice.

[@rowanlidbury]

Panasonic FR Caps for me all day long. Might use FC in audio path. Used Nichicon FW are worse than the FG. The MUSE Bipolar are good though.

[@ericschulze5641]

Alright, I'm using digi key and mouser, and there's NO WAY your finding the caps your describing . it's impossible to get multiple caps in the same series, you can barely find them in the same uf and approximate size ,when's the last time you bought caps ? 2006 or before ?

[@SDsailor7]

I have lifted traces with the solder sucker and it pi**s me off.

[@Atelierul29]

Turn down the temperature of your soldering iron.Also, adding new solder over the old one, will make it easier to desolder

[@SDsailor7]

@@Atelierul29 I tin the tip of the solder and it does help to remove the old solder but i do not have a temperature controlled iron. I think the reason that the traces lift is because the component is too old? Thank you for the tip. I should buy a temp controlled iron.

[@sanolivo6867]

I know is a real pain to clean Boards. What l do is: l add 1GL of Distilled water to the Ultrasonic cleaner; add 105ML of BRANSON EC. Heat up solution to 45C. Place board on a 45 angle and clean for 1 minute, turn board on side and repeat the same. Than clean the other side for 1 minute. Then place board on 99% alcohol. (Not isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol) for 30 seconds each side and is all done. 5 minutes total and a perfect clean Boards.

[@Rob1972Gem]

I look at it this way with capacitors, if I’m paying a service engineer to look at my amplifier or any electronic equipment, 90% of the price of that service will be the engineer time and fee for the work done. I really don’t care about a couple of pounds extra a few pounds extra there. Obviously you can tell I’m from the UK I’m using pounds supplement that with dollars if you want I would rather have the best damn capacitors money can buy the majority of the time if there’s a difference between what did you say in this video $.30 for the cheap ones and $.80 for the expensive ones that’s nothing compared to the overall bill, which like I say in the majority of that will be your/the engineers time

[@Andrew-x7q8c]

I agree. Sending my Tag Mclaren Dac for a recap and I’ve asked for the best quality trusted brand of caps going, I don’t care about the cost given the labour is the majority of the cost. I never trust Chinese caps, far to many fail, even in well known brands.

[@ericschulze5641]

Problem is the original engineers used specific esrs in thier designs & there's no way to know what that was , so just use decent caps & hope for the best, because you will NEVER get it back to original factory specs

[@stefanegger]

That is good work and good showing on how you do things, not like the other guy xtony where he calculates half of the time and does nothing useful. Thanks for the video, you are the man! Only the light seems not to work, the meters are dim in the end, but otherwise looks fine, great to see people actually doing stuff and not calculating and talking more than working.

[@TrevorsBench]

I agree, the lights are too dim. That's because I overestimated the LEDs brightness when run from a AC source. The overall average light emitted is lower because the individual LEDs are only lit 50% of the time when powered from AC. I will correct this with lower value resistors. Tony has a excellent channel and he takes the time to explain the theory behind what he does. I'm not that good of a teacher but more of a doer, I have a hard time explaining how and why things work the way they do.

[@stefanegger]

@@TrevorsBench great, hope it will look great when you "fixed" the brightness of the LED. It seems I am neither, not an engineer nor a genius like you, I constantly run into problems, put in lot of work and in the end, I am just not happy with the result, e.g. harman/kardon 730, a shop sent me this crap as "working" but it hums when you turn it on, otherwise it is kinda fine. Swapped all caps, still hums. I could cry and throw it on the floor or out the window, I guess I will give up on that or the hobby in general. Either shipping damage, or betryed by people, or non fixable or a problem nobody heard before, and in the end no result. You really need to be an engineer to do this, I am not one, I tried my best but I am kinda done with that hobby tbh. The new crap falls apart with the plastic quality, and the old ones dont work either. I should have stuck to my 330c and call it a day, but stupid me has always bad luck and it is not fun any longer if you constantly get betrayed by other people, either they dont pack it, or they sell you crap, or it looks bad, or it does not work etc. It is always something, I am not an engineer, so I guess it would be wise to stop. I guess I will sell it off and keep only a few that work. For the radio alignement need to be an engineer, the manuals are wrong or badly made, it is just a horror. I thought that would be cool but I am not good enough for that or lets say I have no luck in that, whatever I try it fails. I have a bad 905 harman radio, I buy another one -> shipping damage. Now I have 2 broken harman 905, paid for two, and have zero that I am happy with. Well, guess it is just too old to keep it going.

[@myblack6636]

Maybe this "better" chinese caps measure right, but that doesn't mean that they will last for decades. There are no proof of it, that's just your guess. You can get panasonic FR series with about 6000-10000hrs. 220uF@25v will cost you 15-20ct each if you buy 100 or more at mousers. I relay on known brands, our work worth it.

[@TurntableGuy]

I only used Nichicon UPW and UKL for my recaps. But, I've started using Aishi low impedance/long life caps for power supplies and general filtering for the last couple of years. No issues and less than half the price.

[@rowanlidbury]

The FR's are awesome. Don't often use anything else. FC's tend to work better in audio path. You'll never have to replace them again.!

[@ericschulze5641]

When's the last time you bought caps ? They're not available like that anymore, you will NOT find a particular series, let alone multiples of different values, ain't happening, all electrolytic capacitors are in the process of being phased out & will only be available to the government/ military

[@Atelierul29]

@@ericschulze5641 "all electrolytic capacitors are in the process of being phased out & will only be available to the government/ military" Stop smoking weed! It makes you paranoid! :))

[@robertdavis5714]

Own a CA-810, did not want a 1010 because of that Class A switch , and have heard when ran too long will do severe damage to transformer. Really happy with 810, cleaned and replaced lights and has been a Good thus far. Has a very similar sound to my 2021 Yamaha A-S1200. My greatest fear buying something re-capped by others, incorrect values. Ohhhhhh, you brought back memories with the 2 set screw on the balance. Appreciate the tip on the screws that hold heat sync. Dirty board looks like cig. smoke. Water has no chance with corrosion, even electrified. So, had that blue plastic as well, I went the ez'r way incandescent. I did add some neon yellow highlighter to the blue plastic and worked well with a nice greenish color.