Yamaha Drive G29 Clutch Update Kit

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

Get yours here - Clutch Update Kit - powerequipmentman.com/collections/drive-1-2007-2016/products/retro-clutch-update-kit

[@mark32163]

Thank you! After watching this very helpful video, I now see where that grease zert is located on the secondary clutch.

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

Glad it helped!

[@Thumper68]

That link setup is way better it’s pretty much like the ones they used previously. I rebuilt the clutch on my G14 it was pretty easy.

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

Thanks for watching!

[@rmo4222]

On my 2012 1/2 Yamaha G29 I had secondary FBT clutch snap ring failure. The snap ring groove worn enough to let clutch separate, this caused the engine to lug down and make clicking noise when turning corner. Luckily it didn’t cause no damage to transaxle shaft. The clutch had about 6 to 7 years and 15K miles. I live in community that allows golf cart on street and paths.

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

Sounds like you got pretty lucky that it didn't damage anything else. Glad it was an easy fix!

[@mrnetwurm]

Great info. My cart was assembled by a refurbisher from a collection of parts. It will be interesting to see which setup I have.

[@craigmonteforte1478]

Cool breakdown and Explanation i used to Golf and i had rentals that definitely had those symptoms you talked about i thought the Carts just used aCVT or the older style Mini ike /GoCart Centifigal Clutches with the Springs ,Weights ,and Asbestos shoes that gripped the outer baskets that hade the Chain Gear fixed to it i guess they use the 2 peice drive systems instead this seams like a well Engineered one with the Balls but without proper sealing i can see how dirt ,Dust ,and Grass couldbe it’s enemy i guess for Yamaha it did become a expensive Warranty issue it makes me Skeptical if all those units were actually swapped out or just cleaned and put back together ? of course for a big Company like Yamaha it’s just a Insurance thing and Customer Service i bought a new Yamaha motorcycle years ago and i had good things to say always about Warranty work but i thought that may had been more local Dealership driven ? The Bike was a quality product , great Value ,although i did manage to become a Faithfull Honda Customer due to my Fathers 45year old Loyalty

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

Thanks for watching!

[@Garage-wt5jl]

Fuuuuuck lol. I only have the primary. need to get the secondary asap😊 Also, the clutch puller tool you showed at about 6:29 doesn't work for the TEAM drive clutch

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

We have 6 rivet secondary clutches in stock - powerequipmentman.com/collections/clutch-parts/products/yamaha-6-rivet-driven-clutch We sell 3 different clutch puller tools, so you have to select the correct puller for the clutch you are removing. We have one that fits the new style FBT primary, the TEAM primary, and the Clone (aftermarket) FBT primary - powerequipmentman.com/collections/clutch-parts/products/yamaha-primary-clutch-puller

[@Garage-wt5jl]

@@PowerEquipmentMan Thank you!!!!

[@Killian665]

Would a bad primary cause the cart to hit the limiter when it otherwise shouldn’t? Got a 2016 EFI that starts to hit the rev limiter after about 10 min of driving. Say it’ll run 25 mph just fine, then after the cart warms up it only gets to about 20 mph and it’s banging on the rev limiter. Could the primary be getting stuck after it heats up?

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

Yes it could be the primary clutch or a belt issue. Have you greased your clutches lately? Easiest way to check would be to drive the cart with the seat removed so you can watch the clutches and see what they are doing.

[@jkeenanrball]

Gret videos, we have a 2019 QuietTech 2 with ~300 hours. Replace the belt at 150 Hours and we are experiencing jerky/delayed starts. Could this be a clutch issue? Thanks

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

There could be a number of reasons for what you are experiencing. Unfortunately, without seeing the cart in person, I can't be of much help on this one. That's pretty low hours, so I wouldn't think it would be clutches as long as they have been properly greased.

[@XxViperMan32xX]

What about a squeaky belt? I change the drive belt and after 2 weeks it starts squealing again. I haven't noticed a issue other than that with my 09 g29

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

If you still have the TEAM clutches, then the clutches are most likely what is causing the issue. It would be best to update to the new style FBT clutches.

[@JoeSmith-tv1wo]

Very good informational video. I was going to order an entire Yamaha clutch replacement Kit for a 2011 Yamaha with the Team clutch (primary/drive clutches, belt, clutch pulley etc.) but you do not have a contact # listed on your site (only email or parts orders). I'm sorry, but if I can't speak with a sales person or a tech, I'll have to take my business elsewhere. I realize where in a tech driven age, but people contact closes the deal for me!

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

Hey Joe, unfortunately we just don't have the manpower to have someone tied up answering the phone all day. Email works great for us as it makes it much easier to share pictures, videos, and links that can help answer common questions and much more. As for the clutch update kits, they have been on backorder for months with no ETA in site.

[@JoeSmith-tv1wo]

@@PowerEquipmentMan I appreciate your reply and certainly will consider future business with you just for the fact that you replied. I do have a question for you; I did replace the Team clutch with the same Team OEM clutch (I didn't change to the FBT clutch) and only changed the Primary clutch, and both belts. Having researched the problematic Team clutch (as well as your informative videos), I am still having a noise level problem that I thought the new clutch would resolve. The cart runs very well, just too noisy. I was wondering could the noise be amplified by not having a sound deadening insulation on the exhaust heat shield? Thanks for any input.

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

@@JoeSmith-tv1wo The excessive noise could be coming from the engine itself. We have seen some of these 357 engines that get VERY loud. We currently have one on the bench like that and are trying to isolate the cause of the problem. You might also look for signs of a blown head gasket just below the exhaust port. You will have to remove the rubber ducting that connects the engine to the muffler to see that area.

[@JoeSmith-tv1wo]

@@PowerEquipmentMan Hey Jonas, I was wondering if you figured out where the noise was coming from on the Yamaha 357cc motor that you said that you were working on(?). I still haven't figured mine out yet and just wanted to check back with you. Thanks much and I appreciate your videos. Good work!

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

@@JoeSmith-tv1wo We have not had a chance to dig further into it yet, we are crazy busy this time of year. It is an engine that we rebuilt last winter and bored the cylinder with .25 over piston as we thought it might have excessive piston to cylinder clearance. That didn't help at all. We also tried swaping the cam, still didn't make any change. We do have a new connecting rod for it, just haven't had a chance to change it out. We checked rod clearance when we rebuilt it and it was within spec, but are going to try replacing it anyways to see if it makes any difference.

[@parkrow777]

Is the new clutch anything like the Plowman's clutch?

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

We choose not to address the Plowman's clutch issues in this video as I don't like speaking bad about another company. So here are the facts: Plowman's "extreme kit" comes with a TEAM primary clutch (the exact same TEAM clutch that has been discontinued by Yamaha due to being plagued with issues). They do install different weight rollers and a spring in it, but it is still a TEAM clutch that will have a very short service life. The other main issue is the TEAM primary clutch uses an 1 1/8" belt while the new style secondary clutch uses an 1 3/16" belt (as mentioned in the video). Plowman's kit comes with a 1 3/16" belt that does NOT work with the TEAM primary clutch. This causes multiple issues including: the belt can't get to the bottom of the clutch because it is too wide, so it is like you are starting out in second gear. This also causes the cart to lurch forward as soon as you hit the pedal because it is like the cart is still in gear and the clutch can not spin over freely to start the engine. Plowman's actually has you adjust the throttle stop screw on your carb/throttle body to try to get the engine to start faster because of this issue. In summary, Plowman's has you install a junk clutch that doesn't match the secondary clutch and will most likely only last a few years before it starts having issues. The new style FBT clutch is a completely different design from the TEAM clutch that Plowman's sells you. If you are looking for increased performance, we sell a clutch kit that works with the new style clutches and has been performing very well. You can see more info on that here - kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZjXpWCXj8dqldk

[@erichholcomb1167]

I do like watching your videos but your statements about the Plowman’s performance kits are not true. I have a fleet G29, 20” tires, Plowman’s kit with overdrive clutching and a 28mm throttle body. I can bounce off the rev-limiter at 35mph if I choose, or pull my Seadoo or 12’ race boat up the Boat ramp easily. I have had great luck with Plowman’s setup.

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

I'm glad the Plowmans kit is working well for you. We are simply stating facts about components that Plowmans sell. Feel free to do your own research to verify the specs we listed about the clutches and belts. I encourage you to call Yamaha Corp and ask them about "issues with TEAM clutches" and see how fast they hang up on you. If you go to the Yamaha factory and even mention the word "TEAM" you are likely to get kicked out of the building. However, I do have a few questions about your set up: To my knowledge, Plowmans has never sold an 'overdrive' clutch setup for the G29. The "overdrive clutch mods" were only available for the older G series. They do make you ship your clutch to them to "machine it", but all they actually do is install the stiffer secondary spring. We have pictures and data to prove this. So I would be interested to know how yours is an "overdrive". I have to assume that your cart has high speed gears installed as well, correct? Even if you have some type of overdrive setup, with a EFI rev limiter of 4250 rpm and 20" tires, it would be physically impossible for your cart to do 35 mph with stock gears. To reach that speed with stock gears your engine would have to turn over 6000 rpm. I also have to assume that you have Plowmans air filter and air box mods. These upgrades along with a 28mm throttle body allows significantly more air flow into your engine, so what did Plowmans do to add more fuel to make up for the increased air? He probably had you adjust the throttle stop screw, but did he reflash your ECU or add a stand alone fuel controller? These engines do NOT have an O2 sensor so they can not make any fuel adjustments on their own. If nothing was done, then your cart is running lean and hot at high RPM. This will shorten your engine life over time and I recommend not doing it. We have plenty of dyno runs to prove this that we plan to do a video on it after we release our High Performance Kit for the Quietechs around the end of this year. You can also gain around 20% more horsepower by adding a fuel/timing controller to make your engine actually run with proper air/fuel ratio. I really don't want to talk bad about Don. He has been doing this for over 30 years and knows a ton about the older Yamahas. But we see several issues with some of the stuff he has done for the Drive1 and Drive2 (especially the EFI carts), and when we try to talk to him about it he refuses to listen and just says we have no idea what we are talking about.

[@erichholcomb1167]

@@PowerEquipmentMan I purchased a new overdrive modified Team primary, modified 6 rivet secondary clutch, belt, and filter from Don for my 2016 EFI stock geared fleet. My buddy did the non overdrive kit at the same time on his Lifted G16 so I was able to compare the visual difference in the primary clutch. It appears mine was machined to close tighter allowing the belt to ride higher in the sheave. I did not pull it apart to look for any internal modifications and the two models have different secondary clutches so a comparison wasn’t possible. We didn’t call Don for tuning, I just followed the process as described on several forums. Governor drilled out, hot valve adjustment, pedal adjustment and idle screw. The carbureted G16 did run harder until I installed the 28mm throttle body. The throttle body comes with an injector but I can’t confirm if it makes more fuel. Both carts will touch 35mph on phone GPS applications, a screen shot or video can easily be provided. I have run at least 50 gallons of fuel through it and just simply change the oil and clean the filter. Two carts with identical performance with perfect reliability can’t be by accident?

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

Before installing the Plowman's kit, what was the top speed of your 2016? With 20" tires and the governor turned all the way up you should have been around 18-20 mph. Bypassing the governor should get you to the mid 20s before hitting the rev limiter. Plowman's overdrive clutch kit for the older G series carts states it will gain 3 to 5 mph. So I just can't see how your cart is doing 35 with no other mods. We can make PTV carts run 35 mph no problem, but it is because they have high speed gears. The 28mm throttle body is from a UMAX and uses the exact same injector as the standard 26mm throttle body, so you don't gain any additional fuel from that. Just more air. Feel free to email me a video of it - [e-mail]

[@carsandguitars7064]

Yamaha got rid of the horrible Team brand clutch. EZGO uses them now and toro uses them in their base model Workman.

[@PowerEquipmentMan]

Yes, it really blows my mind that these TEAM clutches are even still in production after all issues that they had with Yamaha. I guess they just don't learn. Thanks for watching!