fix sticking clutch on EZGO golf cart- DIY specialty tools

In this video I show how golf cart CVT clutches are supposed to work . Then I go over removal, cleaning, repair, and re-instillation. Normally several specialty tools are required to disassemble the clutches, but I show how to create your own using materials you may have around your shop.
#fabrication #ezgo #golfcarts #troubleshooting #diy

[@meidingt]

Clear, concise and straight to the point. If you are not a professor or teacher you missed your calling. thanks

[@anythingmechanical3399]

Thank you Tom, that's very kind. I don't teach, but I do a fair amount of public speaking and presenting.

[@gogamma]

At the beginning of the video I could see that the belt was sitting way too low in the back pulley. It should have been sitting even with the top of the rear pulley and at the bottom of the front pulley. That's where all the slack in the belt was coming from. Great video with instructions of how to make your own tools.

[@jimhealy4866]

I have the exact same problem, just got my removal bolt today - thank you!

[@anythingmechanical3399]

Awesome! Good luck!

[@Jon.Carlsen]

Good job! I knew there had to be a way to disassemble the primary clutch without buying special tools. I have a welder so I'm going to improvise a tool like you did using whatever is handy. I have to remove the clutch to replace a leaking crankcase cover gasket so I might as well service the clutch while it's off the cart. I'm glad I don't live where they salt the roads!

[@ToddSantoro]

I used a yellow torch for about a minute in the hole where you removed the bolt from the driven clutch and a light tap from a rubber mallet and it popped right off. I have to say I did everything else and it took me 4 Saturdays to finally get it off.

[@anythingmechanical3399]

It's so rare that projects go seamlessly. Ingenuity and determination are the most important tools I own (and by ingenuity and determination I usually mean big hammers, torches, and pry bars haha). Good on you for sticking at it!

[@jimciancio9005]

Lol! I built a very similar tool before I found out someone else was as crazy as myself? Used a old spanner wrench that was made for another type of primary clutch so basically everything was there for it, I just needed to add the 3 pins to catch the spider of the Ezgo Comet clutch. My clutch had been through probably 3 engine replacements over its years in service. So it was pretty worn out and if I damaged it, at this point it wouldn't really matter? So upon getting it apart and the spiffy removed found that the shaft was worn out in the area that moves the most on the clutch. Being I own a lathe, I was able to cut the shaft down and make a new sleeve for it to bring it back to specs. While everything was apart as well, I made a new bronze bushing for the moving pulley half and cut the faces of both the sheaths on the lathe. Amazing they were pretty worn down especially the aluminum half of course. So after doing all this BS to the primary clutch, it was time to tackle the problem of getting the secondary off the transaxle input shaft! Which was the most difficult part of the entire process! It had unfortunately sat around uncovered for a few years outside. The clutch was basically one piece with the transaxle shaft now of course. But welding to the steel center section of the secondary clutch a big 5/8" nut and using a chrome-moly 5/8" threaded rod with another nut welded to its end I made a self pulling tool to push against the transaxle shaft while applying a sh1t ton of heat to the secondary center section. Eventually it broke loose and slow and painfully I was able to remove it from the shaft. Replacement of the nylon buttons of course was needed long before I melted away the remaining pieces with the heat of the torch. It had been digging into the helix for a while. Thankfully I was able to salvage the pulley sheaths and resurfaced them as well, but had to order a new helix buttons and shims. Otherwise it was just a labor of love I guess? It saved me a lot of money being able to rebuild both the front and rear pulleys, which are now perfectly in tune with the 2 stroke Polaris /Ezgo which now powers the TXT and for a little 244 cc engine, with a exgo bottom end and Polaris top end the thing is pretty damn quick. It idles now in gear like a engine should do. The transaxle was taken apart and I put in a neutral detent position in the shift shaft. This is a great way to start your engine and not having to worry about running someone over with it if you wish to blow out any excessive oil. Otherwise yes there's no such thing as impossible or as many people say non- serviceable parts! My @ss! Everything is serviceable to an extent of how much dedication you wish to put forth, bottom line! Glad you made this video for people to see who believe things like this sh1t can't be done?! Goof luck with your Ride man.

[@SemiReTired]

Great video,,, super informative

[@dantmanish]

thanks for this video,, pretty cool showing how nice they work after ,, but your air compressor kicking on near the end like to give me a coronary ,, how does the removal bolt work anyway ,, does it push against the crankshaft and thread into the clutch?

[@anythingmechanical3399]

Haha, yeah I need to improve my video editing. Your description of how the removal tool works is exactly right.

[@lessoltes6642]

Excellent video! My only comment: Please use jack stands to prevent a disaster (lost a friend because of this).

[@anythingmechanical3399]

Thanks. That's terrible about your friend. Great advice on the jack stands. I always use them on cars. This golf cart is light enough that I can lift the back up without a jack. Also I wasn't crawling around underneath it, so not much of a risk. Point taken though. Generally good advice.

[@a55pro]

Ok or

[@doctor41baller]

I have exact same color and exact same cart. I have the exact same problem....I think lol. Cart just sits there and looks like the clutch quivers....if I hold gas long enough it engages the motor and finally goes

[@anythingmechanical3399]

Very cool. I don't see many of the yellow ones. They must be rarer than the red and blue versions. Good luck with your cart!

[@LegacyGarage]

How'd you take off the clutch on the motor

[@anythingmechanical3399]

Good question. I guess I didn't film that part. Both clutches come off the same way using the clutch removal tool. However, the drive clutch has an odd shaped washer at the end of the shaft which has to be removed before you can fit the removal tool in. I used a slide hammer to get mine out, but it was pretty corroded. Normally you should just be able to grab the washer and pull it off.

[@gmtech26358]

You have an excellent impact gun but that hose is killing it. Get a full sized 3/8" hose.

[@anythingmechanical3399]

I do have a regular 3/8 hose also. I haven’t noticed a big difference power output between it and my flex hose, but you’re right, I should’ve given it a try on this job before opting for the breaker bar. I also have a really nice snap-on all steel gun, but I almost never use it because my air compressor becomes the weak point

[@lintoncrabtree7451]

How much would ya charge a person to make the tool for taking the clutch apart ?

[@anythingmechanical3399]

🤔 I hadn't thought about it. I still have the one I made for the video. I guess it's for sale. Let me know if you're interested and you can message me

[@lintoncrabtree7451]

@@anythingmechanical3399 Have you gone under ground?

[@rynoyouknow2838]

Can anyone tell me what the back clutches job is for? Does it make it go into a higher gear. Thanks

[@anythingmechanical3399]

Gears work in pairs. A large gear in front and a small gear in back is a higher gear and vice versa. So the back clutch (driven clutch) is an integral part in gear changes. If the back gear was fixed you would have fewer effective gear ratios. Think ten speed v thirty speed

[@jmartin3955]

I wanted to see you remove the primary clutch.

[@anythingmechanical3399]

Virtually identical procedure as the driven clutch, so I didn't bother filming. The main difference is that there is a washer in the end of the shaft that has to be removed before the tool can be used

[@tomseim]

There are chemical products to remove oxidation from aluminum, which is a lot easier mechanically grinding/sanding it off. Here is a video on how to remove oxidation: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i2TQZqqlitqfptk and another great video from the same guy: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4W7cnt8i66nfLc

[@bradenpowell8490]

Skipped taking off the clutch

[@anythingmechanical3399]

Yes, you're right. Same procedure as removing the driven clutch, which I do show