Yamaha HPDI Neutral Switch Fix For No Power Won't Plane Out

via KZbin Capture

[@Parithead]

I've seen a bunch of helpful videos on YT but this one hit close to home. I just paid to have a VST cleaned out and an HPDI pump rebuilt. It was this little thing the whole time. THANK YOU!

[@TrophyFish]

Dude, I f'ing love you man!!! I've been battling this for 2 months! Put a screwdriver down there, pushed the switch, started it, FULL THROTTLE BABY!!!!! You're awesome.

[@TrophyFish]

While I wait for the part to arrive, I cut the 2 wires to the switch and ran a black and red wire, spliced to the switch harness that will be part of the replacement, and ran the 2 wires through the motors electrical, fuel and cable opening into the back of the boat and attached a toggle switch. I can turn the switch to the ON position when starting and as soon as the motor starts I turn the switch off. This simulates the switches purpose and keeps me on the water while I wait. Thanks again for the video. I wish I had seen it before replacing hundreds of dollars of parts. My mechanic knew nothing about this switch. Amazing how much this little micro switch can mess up your day.

[@jheiny1231]

What model boat motor do u have?. Can u explain to me how the switch is supposed to operate while the gears are shifting? Is it a momentary switch. Or does it hold? Does it make contact while in gear? Or does it lose contact while in gear. Thanks

[@TrophyFish]

@@jheiny1231 Same motor as in the video. The switch only comes into play when the motor starts in neutral. After the starting sequence it doesnt do anything. So you engage the switch while in neutral and the engine is off. Once the engine is running, shut it off and then it runs normally.

[@robertp7209]

@@jheiny1231 the engine does not idle in neutral with all six cylinders firing, only two fire at a time I believe, but when in gear all 6 fire. If all don’t fire - the engine can’t develop enough power to do anything. That’s why it stalls upon acceleration. Hence the micro switch. Any Yamaha tech should know this, sad they don’t, or perhaps it’s because they don’t hook the computer up or just lack any troubleshooting skills so instead use the shotgun method, to just keep replacing parts till they hit it.

[@jheiny1231]

@@robertp7209 yeh I got it now. I don't have a hpdi. My local boat mechanic was to lazy to look up how my engine operates at nuetral so he assumed it was like the hpdi. It wasn't until I got my boat back and nothing was fixed that I started digging in myself. Which my motor always run off of 6 cylinders. It only temporarily cuts off 2 cylinders from the shift switch when switching in and out of gear to make it easier to switch gears. And after more and more digging the reason for my problem is that the voltage rectifier was faulty and wasn't giving off correct voltage to the ignition system. 120$ part fixed my problem. And mechanic wanted to change out my computer for thousands! Will be working on my own motor for now on

[@robertp7209]

@@jheiny1231 sometimes you have to do things yourself, even though we are willing to pay others. For those without skills, they can buy new and let the warranty take care of shet going bad.

[@MMAGUY13]

My boat has this problem. It was ruining my summer you just saved me. Thank you so much.

[@usmcgsxr1]

Describes my symptoms exactly. Can't wait to give this a try. Hard to believe it's a filter when it starts sporadically and slowly gets worse like that switch is starting to make contact less and less over time. I have noticed that shutting it off immediately makes a difference.

[@Austin.C]

Glad this popped up a week after both my 03 HPDIs had the same problem. Went through everything filter wise and finally a shop that was cleaning all my injectors said it was those switches.. I did find a dead injector though

[@patrickatwell6062]

Thank you sir. Great video. You explain what problem you’re fixing first. That’s a big deal. Then you explain how to fix the problem. Thank you. I have been looking for two days. Trying to figure out why no one else had my problem of the boat running fine, but not accelerating.

[@marioticodecr]

I want to give you the tank's for this video. I have this problem with z200 and we spent a lot of time and money fixing this issue. Now we try your idea and works perfect.

[@arielmesa100]

Really nice video, same thing happen to my 2004 HPDI 300HP last Friday and all the mechanic told me what you said on the video change this filter, this and that, but thanks to your video i got my problem fix on 30 minutes Saturday morning, thanks for sharing the information, REALLY NICE VIDEO, Thanks.

[@Grady252]

Great! You just showed me what I was thinking and my symptoms are spot on what you are saying. Even down to I turned off ignition and restarted, took a couple of cycles and all was good for the day. Now I know what to check. Maybe a good idea just to replace that switch if it is worn? Hope I can get to it.....

[@SolarBurrito]

Thank you! It just happened to me and I suspected it because I knew about the 2-4 cylinder idle. Glad it’s not a vst!

[@Thepresident5]

Helped me in solving my problem. The pin of the gear shift was bended and needed to be replaced.

[@caribbeanfishing2114]

Thx man really helpful you saved me a lot of money and time

[@johnpardalis9492]

Thank you thank you thank you After changing all the filters and coils and sooooo on I stumbled upon this video. After looking at mine I irealised it was so loose and not sliding off the taper. Adjusted it and wow all my power and revs back. Thanks

[@jheiny1231]

Yes. But you can diagnose if the switch is bad or not without the boat on the water. It needs a load on the propeller to put tension on the shift cable to actually actuate the switch. The switch will not actuate with boat out of water. Not even with muffs on

[@catallaxy2000]

Had this issue on my starboard motor... Scary when it first happens - what tipped me off was that it would usually clear if a turned off the ignition and restarted... Knew it wasn't fuel if motor ran perfectly when it wasn't running perfectly... lol... Easy fix - not hard to replace... Motors have 1200 hours, good compression... Other things I've had to do to one or both (besides the usual filters, thermostats, water pumps, and lower units): replaced lifter pumps, voltage regulator, fuel filter holder (clear one with water detector - this one had faulty wires), flywheel coupler and sprocket (drives fuel pump belt - the sprocket/coupler were stripped, allowing the sprocket to slip), replaced O2 sensor... They purr like kittens if you take care of them...

[@francescopierre-nina9515]

👍🏽.. very handy tip- had this same prob and discovered this problem too.

[@alhoud3481]

thank you!! saved me a ton of money!!

[@TobyIAH]

Glad I found this video!

[@outsidewhenpossible5242]

Very helpful. Thanks

[@byronquinley1400]

Anyone know if this is an issue on the F series?

[@davidyoung7868]

Thank you for putting this out there.

[@aryamarronte9912]

Hi Brian, I have a pair of yamaha hpdi 200 (2001). When I first turn them on, after one minute they stall in neutral and then shot off, When I turn back on and I put them on gear start running well even at idle and after 10 minutes of been running the problem end. It is just when they are cold when they shot off in neutral. The problem start in one motor and after two month the other start doing the same thing. Any thoughts? Thanks

[@Grady252]

Many folks have this issue. After months with mechanic and even with Yamaha going to work with him, no solution was found. Link and Sync, wire resistance checking, plug boots/wires, check the O2 sensor, etc....nothing. Then they wanted to service the Injectors, but I didn't think that was the culprit since they run like a bat out of hell once they warmed up. I was with the mechanic on his first day and the O2 sensor has a chamber and small port with a little valve in there that should float. This is where the sniffing is done for the O2 sensor. Mine was full of coked up carbon. He cleaned it out, and had some improvement but not all . After season, I pulled O2 sensor and worked hard to clean out the carbon and purchased 2 new O2 sensor draw tubes.....This is the valve like part I mentioned above. I had to use some wire drill brushes after soaking overnight in carb cleaner to clean out the chamber and tube, being careful not to damage. The new draw tube valve then was smooth to operate. Re-assembled and then did a Seafoam spray treatment to clean out more carbon from engine. Took to water and ran and they start up immediately to 600-700rpms and purr like kittens. I think the issue is the O2 sensor is not getting the reading from the combustion gases due to the carbon buildup, causing it to confuse the computer and not idle correctly when cold .Now I do Seafoam each season and service the O2 sensor and clean all the carbon out, change the plugs and good to go!

[@paulcunningham6353]

Brian, great video. I have a 200 HPDI. My engine ran the other day 20 minutes at idle then it was about to pour raining, so I shut it off and now it turns but doesn't start. I can't get it to start for nothing. The Yamaha ignition switch is only 3 weeks old. I disconnected the white wire. The ignition switch is buzzing even though the lanyard is in. Both oil tanks are full. Will this switch cause the motor not to fire up?

[@brianh4754]

No, this switch does not prevent it from starting. I would first check your kill switch. Could be a loose connection there and that could cause your symptoms.

[@faithcunningham948]

@@brianh4754 Brian, the canister filter on the motor, if that gets water, does the ignition buzzer sound? I just changed my sending unit and only could get 6 of the 7 screws in. So I left one scew hole open. Ugh. Maybe water in tank not allowing it to turn over because buzzer is stopping it. Do those fuel sending units only go on one way?

[@JamesGoodman123]

I have a 200 up vmax and is doing something similar but doesn't work when I restart it any thoughts ?

[@brianh4754]

jm goodman once the switch stops working entirely, it doesn't matter if you restart or not. It will never work right.

[@mgrose53]

Ok will this also make it when idling across the water at about 15k rpm ramp up then die?

[@brianh4754]

This issue should never cause the motor to die, it just runs on 4 cylinders instead of 6 and runs like crap. If you’re stalling out something else is wrong.

[@yourtypicaldayoutdoors3263]

So I have a 175 HPDI, mine won’t get out of the hole as fast and will finally get up on plane and when it does it runs great. Could this be the same switch or will this switch not let it plane out at all?

[@brianh4754]

It won’t plane my boat out ever, but I have a lot of weight and deadrise on the hull. It might be possible to plane a boat that needs less power out, but I don’t know for sure. If it still reaches max RPM then this isn’t the issue though. It will never reach max RPM on only four cylinders.

[@joelowery6773]

I have a GT150 Johnson it doing basically the same thing... will not plane out... tried everything to get it to run better and wondering if it has the same feature on it... thanks in advance.

[@brianh4754]

Joe Lowery sorry, I don’t know anything about the Johnsons.

[@joelowery6773]

@@brianh4754 oh ok then.... thank you for your reply... I just saw it on your KZbin page and thought I would ask because I am having similar problem. Thank you again.

[@SolarBurrito]

Nope different problem.

[@ilander55555]

hi, my 175 hpdi will loose power between 2000 and 3000 rpms but will run great at wot then boggs down when I back down again. any ideas ive spent a lot of money on it

[@ilander55555]

id send you a check if you could help me

[@brianh4754]

Things to try off the top of my head, but I’m no expert. Typically when something runs OK only at wide open throttle it is a rich mixture. Check the diaphragms on the low pressure fuel pumps. If they get torn they will leak into the crankcase and make the mixture rich. If you’re at wide open throttle you’ve got enough air to make up for it. If you’re at lower throttle positions it can make it run poorly. Often it is associated with poor starting when hot. You may also have a bad injector which is putting too much fuel in. Again, I’m no expert on them, but I hear you can test them with a 9V battery and there are companies that will calibrate them. Your motor also has an oxygen sensor providing feedback for mixture ratio control. It’s doubtful it’s bad off enough to make your motor run rich but I suppose it’s possible. You can clean them. Check out some tutorials on that. Also, change every filter in the motor. Including the filter in the VST tank. (You can clean that one with carb cleaner and an air gun actually.) these motors will act funky with clogged filters.

[@danielmcginnis6630]

I got a 2003 250 HPDI. When on the hose, if I put it on idle speed ( 800 to 1200 RPM )and barely move the throttle up it jumps to 3000 - 3800 rpm. I can’t idle down to 2000 - 2900 rpm and it hold steady. Is that normal being on a hose? Or is there a problem?

[@stinkymcstinkerton1854]

Did you figure out your problem? It’s not normal. It should throttle down. Makes me wonder if the switch goes bad and the motor stays with all 6 cylinders running after your throttle down.

[@simons7676]

Does this apply to a 2 stroke Yamaha 90 Inshore? I was battling a bogging problem and fixed the bogging today ( bad fuel joint connector in the motor) and when I went to run it it wouldn't go over 2200 rpm no matter how far I pushed the throttle 2200 and the bow up in the air unable to get on plane.

[@tienchua]

Did you ever figurative out? 1 out of 2 motor is doing the same thing after a day before i swapped fuse block, i also have broken 1 trimtab at the same time experiencing with that issue, and also incidentally turn ignition off during the 5mph zone, not sure what causing that but throttle controller as long as i keep less than 2000rpm is ok ( ? Not sure if ok because i have twin engine ), but once i move both controller to full throttle i only have 1 engine at full throttle and the other is max 2800-2900 rpm. This engine can not go more than that. It screwed up my weekend by going back to the dock and bring em home, the 5 mile zone in my area really long, about good 15 minute to the open ocean, it really suck.

[@paulcunningham6353]

Brian, can I send you a picture of my neutral safety switch? It came out super clear, the photo. I want you to tell me if you think I need to adjust. I definitely have a rough idle. I definitely hear grinding when I go into neutral or into forward or into reverse. Would this help?

[@brianh4754]

You can’t tell just by looking at it. You need to take a voltmeter and check continuity at that blue plug to see if it’s making contact or not.

[@jheiny1231]

@@brianh4754 I was told the boat actually has to be on the water to have a load on the propeller to diagnose this problem. The shift cables need a load on it to actuate the switch. Cannot be done out of water. Cuz I'm having same issue. No continuity on switch out of water. But a mechanic told me it has to be under load

[@brianh4754]

That’s not true at all for the neutral switch issue described in this video. I troubleshot it 100% out of the water. He might be talking about some other issue with shifting to/from neutral. You mentioned you were “grinding gears” which is not a symptom of the switch problem. You might have two problems at the same time.

[@jheiny1231]

@@brianh4754 I never said grinding issue. I diagnosed the switch is not making contact at all in the water or out of the water. But with the switch not making contact.. 2 out of 4 trys trying to get on plane it gets there then sputters bad. I'm not sure if thats that switch issue. Seems like another issue. Did u have that issue with sputtering on plane with a bad nuetral switch?

[@brianh4754]

My boat would never get on plane without the switch making contact upon start. Some boats might though. Regardless, if the switch is not making contact when in neutral that’s a problem to fix.

[@frankzabski3038]

So you don't recommend replacing the switch?

[@brianh4754]

Frank Zabski No, I don't think it's worth changing it out when it's so easy to fix the one you have. Knock on wood mine has been fine for a year now.

[@brianh4754]

Mine has finally failed and needed to be replaced. So I now think it’s worth it to replace, at least in the medium term. I’d still repair the one I had so I could keep using the boat until maintenance time though.

[@carlosayala3675]

Hello, can you jump it? Make a loop on it to complete the circuit and leave it permanently? Any down sides to this?

[@brianh4754]

No, sadly. It needs to be closed when started and then open when throttled. I suppose you could add a manual switch and turn the switch off prior to giving it throttle, but that’s pretty ghetto and you might as well just replace the switch.

[@carlosayala3675]

@@brianh4754 okay thanks!

[@stinkymcstinkerton1854]

Do you think it’s possible the switch can go bad leaving all cylinders firing after you throttle down? My issue is that the boat has the same issues upon acceleration, but the RPMs stay high after you throttle down. Shut motor off then it restarts and dukes fine until it’s throttled up