DIY Classic Suzuki Restoration - How To Weld Heavy Steel Chassis Sections - PT 43

[@mandymoo7406]

i never cut or weld without leather gloves,keep the painting ones for er painting,good work as usual

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Yep you are correct :) the thicker gloves are a little more difficult to work with though :/ thanks :)

[@jenlaw1017]

The amount of time, effort and skill you had to put in for this video alone is incredible! 👏 super work and amazing to watch as always 😁

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Thank you very much :) alot of time certainly went into this one! Much appreciated as always :)

[@deebee3901]

Great stuff guys! Love this. Can't wait to see the chassis finished!

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Thank you very much! it is getting there! 1 more vid finishing off the chassis and then its going back together!!!

[@paulluggar5964]

Great stuff, nice to see some heavier parts cut and welded. A very fussy design of outrigger compared to a Land Rover! Interested that you still stitch weld heavier parts, have seen others distort a chassis by seam welding. Learning all the time from you guys. Cheers. 👍

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Thank you Paul! It was good to finally get round to getting the heavier stuff welded! it is a very interesting design, especially with the twist in it that you saw us create in the vice. Seam welding would just put too much heat into the panel as you mention. We had the welder of a very high setting to get this weld right so we has to take it slow.

[@Jonathan-jh4pm]

Another great video. Really enjoyed it

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Thank you! We appreciate it! Lots more on the way!

[@colinritchie1757]

Nice job n the Chassis repair - really impressive welding on the outrigger

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Thank you very much Colin :)

[@leeopenshaw9302]

Great work again guys 👍👍

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Thank you Lee.

[@karenmurray3098]

dam fine welding skils good sir !!

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Thabk you Karen!

[@TheDaf95xf]

Measure 📏 cut weld grind 😊that’s YCR fantastic guys 👍🏻

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

As easy as that! Thanks Stevie!

[@stevemcilroy9518]

lovely job Ryan

[@davekeehn8388]

Great work! Weld yourself a set of tall stands to save your back.

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

We do need to :)

[@deanso67]

Love the videos. Where do you get your magnetic cob lights that I’ve seen you use when welding? They are just what I need

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

We get them from snap-on. they are brilliant. thank you!

[@basfinnis]

That is a bonkers amount of skilled work there. Amazing to think how much strain the welded parts will take in its lifetime? Cool bananas 👍

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Thanks Basil, and yes! especially if it goes offroad too!

[@sameereng81]

Nice welding job 👍 👏

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Thank you!

[@jamesward5721]

For heavier chassis stuff I now grab the plasma cutter & use it as an arc-gouging machine - saves loads of dicking about getting rusty bits off chassis. It's also a gift for cutting out the new stuff from sheet. The plasma will also get into them nooks & crannies nothing else will - when you're staring down the back of a dash, wondering how the heck you're gonna cut that bit out as no cutting wheel will go in??? If the plasma torch fits in, it'll cut it.. and if the plasma torch fitted, so will the welding torch. Not always needed - but when it is, it's brilliant.

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Thank you James for the tip! Hopefully that will be our next investment :)

[@therealspixycat]

how do you know if you have full penetration of the welded piece in the main beam? Would using a slightly bigger gap and a backplate be an option to be sure you do have full penetration?

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

The welder was on its max setting. We had a gap between the panel and the chassis, the weld laid flat and didn't bunch up and the grade of steel we used as the repair was thicker than the original. You cannot have too big of a gap as it would make welding the repair very difficult as you need to bridge the gap. A good size gap is usually the thickness of a grinder cutting disk, which is what we had. You can put a backing plate in there but in this case, we had no need to. The tell tale sign is usually when the weld lays flat. That means it's sunk between the panels and fused correctly.

[@greggbutler9344]

Whatever the weld penetration, it will be stronger than the rusty hole before 😂😂😂😂😂

[@leofabbro456]

all the brushes for grinder look to be made at the same place, they all lose the wires quicker than i lose my hair. Have a nice week.

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Yes! We go through them very quickly. However we do put them through their paces! with doing the Datsun and mx5's too!

[@russellwade7810]

When you look at a vehicle stripped down to its bare chassis there is no wonder they rot like hell.

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Yep! alot of placed for the chassis to hold water/ mud etc

[@paulvernon4160]

I see you usually alternate between a wire wheel and a flap wheel in your angle grinder, have you ever tried the rapid strip wheels (Norton do a wheel called blaze rapid strip) I find them in my limited use to be an ideal cross over, aggressive enough to remove rust and paint but not so aggressive that you actually grind material away(if you concentrated on one spot for an extended period of time you would actually remove some material but not much) What are your thoughts on these?

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Thanks Paul, Yep you are completely right, the stripper wheels are very good! we need to get some in for us to use. they would be ideal for us, especially on the underbody of the car! only issue is if you catch an edge, you can break the stripper wheel.

[@toeknee6588]

Enjoying the content : ) BUT rubber gloves are for washing up not welding or grinding ; )

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Ha! you are correct :) we need to get some more gloves in :D

[@PRAR1966]

🙂

[@YootubeUK]

You need to move that poor Snap-On House (Rollcab) out the way with all that chaos right next to it! Gawd the rot on that Rustzuki..

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

We clean it regularly :) all the dirty work is almost complete now do we should be good :) thanks! and yes! lots of rot!

[@Wholistic1]

Great job! Only one remark (constructively intended). You're molding the new piece onto the older rusty one... this means you're basically increasing the overall dimensions with the width of the newly used sheet of metal. Probably doesn't matter much in this case... just my perfectionism getting glitches.

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Thank you! We used thr tape line on that heavy chassis out rigger leg and we cut slightly inside the edge so it would allow the new piece to sit over the top like youbmention. I compared the new piece to the other side and it was perfect size :) thanks

[@neilbarnes3557]

Still a little bit to repair on the chassis then? Going to be very shiny when it's done!

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

There is yes. Thats in the next video :D

[@lionelevans3445]

"By gum - lads - it is a right cracker job you do!" Sorry that is the extent of my Yorkshire language as an Australian. Oh I forgot to mention, "growing up in paper bag on-side of road". In all seriousness you two blokes put out great work with very informative content. I do have to wonder though whether you scour the countryside for the most rusty basket cases such as the black Datsun 260z to work on? As a person who is working on rusty Series 2A and Series 3 Land Rovers, it is very comforting to see the amount of rust in the Suzuki chassis. They must have copied their design off the Series Land Rover chassis! Can you please let me know what thickness the metal is you are using to make the chassis rust repairs? Keep up the sterling effort! Regards Lionel.

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Haha good effort! I think you would pass as someone from Yorkshire! Thank you for the kind comment! We bought the Datsun sight unseen and it looked find on the photos, but little did we know there were mountains of filler lurking under the paint! Good luck on the Land Rover! We used 3mm plate on the chassis, it was a little thicker than the original, probably 2.5mm would have been fine. Thanks again!

[@adrianmorris1273]

Even though your bodywork skills are amazing. When structurally welding you should push yhe welder not pull it and constant runs are also stronger than millions of spot weld m8

[@creak92]

+1 on that, a series of tacks is a necessity for body work but for 3mm sheets on a chassis you need to lay down a continuous bead. Also don't make vertical cuts in the frame, always make your cut at an angle so the weld gets longer or if you absolutely have to do so, weld a fish plate over the repair area afterwards. Probably won't matter for a light duty Zuk but it's good practice nontheless.

[@greggbutler9344]

Nice job, but please look after your knees, trust me me you will pay the price when your older, you should have put the chassis up on blocks or tall stands or at least wear knee pads. ❤❤❤❤

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Thanks Gregg, you are completely right. I usually have the foam knee pads in my trousers but I didn't this time. I need to definitely dig them back out!

[@stumac869]

You really should wear a mask when cleaning the chassis or anything else for that matter. Appreciate they're not the best when trying work but they do help protect your lungs from all crap in the air.

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

You are 100% correct Stu, thank you. In the videos to come, you will see me wearing a proper mask

[@drumtochtyglen]

Another great video but as I have said before the amount of work required to get that vehicle to this state and it is not yet finished and done at a commercial rate now would be beyond its market value. Two questions 1) the front of the body tub floor is a different colour to the rear half is this just another colour of Hammerite. 2) it is impossible to get access to all the chassis internals unless more access points are cut and cleaned and then welded again. Unless all the areas are mechanically cleaned inside as shown in the video, it is questionable about internal spraying of anti rust coatings to the blind areas which will just land on loose crud. Therefore as you have said before this is a training video rather than a complete restoration. It has to stop some where as you just chase your tail in the end.

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

It is a labour of love this car. The cost will outweigh the value yes, but we use this can to demonstrate as we have in our previous videos. Your question 1 = all areas of the tub floor have received the same colour hammerite and the same amount of coats. perhaps its the lighting, or the dust? 2 = it is impossible yes. it could be dipped and treated etc but we do not believe it needs it. we have visually inspected the whole of the chassis and used a hammer to explore any weak points and most of it is solid in all honestly. All the non solid bits we have replaced/ will replace in the next video. we will do out best with rods and the air lance to dislodge as much loose material inside the chassis as we can, we can then use wax oil/ cavity wax to protect what is in there. Even is it lands on loose crud, it will still play a part to protect from further water/ mud etc.

[@tunichtgut5285]

Is this frame repair legal in the UK? In Germany it wouldn't be. The rules about frame repairs (I am not talking about unibody cars - they don't have a frame) are very strict. You are only allowed to replace or repair factory welds - anything beyond that may only be performed by the manufacturer or by certified workshops and they have to do calculations that prove the safety of the frame repair. In other words: here in Germany the frame would have to go to the junk yard.

[@FruktsTv]

no outro? you guys stop slacking on editing .

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

Haha, sometimes we forget :)

[@mitchy8044]

bruh hammerite is 1 of the worst paint for a car ... it chips right off every 1k primer is better than this stuff

[@yorkshirecarrestoration]

We surface prepped the painted areas and did multiple coats, it will also be covered by gGavitex or similar. Thanks :)