You Need This Tool - Episode 129 | Battery Cable Lug Crimping Tool

[@bryanmichalski175]

I in fact just bought these exact crimpers because they are a must have. Also picked up smaller ferrule crimpers for smaller terminal connections.

[@andrewmertz7197]

I have this same tool and used it many times I have four runs of 0gauge Powe running from front battery to rear battery for the stereo system in my envoy

[@purplebooger6410]

I have the same tool and I love it but I have found that if you go down a size and crimp a connector more than one time it does the best. No other method compares. Best crimp and cheap!

[@southtexasff]

Old post I know, but what do you mean go down a size? I’m trying to crimp 8awg wire and every time I crimp it flares out to one side and doesn’t hold.. Do you mean use the next bigger or smaller size?

[@purplebooger6410]

@@southtexasff the next smaller size to make sure it’s crimped good. I crimp the middle first then just below it again to use as much crimping surface as possible. Really clamping it closed around the wire as much as I can. I have never had one fail or come apart even on off-road applications.

[@purplebooger6410]

@@southtexasff to prevent flares try crimping half way then rotate the wire a little. Crimp a little then rotate and repeat. It’s not the fastest way to add a connector I know but it is the best way that I have found over 30 years. Smash that copper around the wire like play-doh.

[@mooosestang]

I think i'm going to get that crimper and redo mine. i used one of the hammer crimpers and i just don't like how it tends to mangle the lug. I had to use in on my strut tower because i was putting new lugs on the factory cables, lol! luckily i left the wires a little too long because i wasn't happy with the crimps.

[@MichaelJohnBrooks]

I think that one of the reasons why solder is not used in aviation is that were there to be a current surge that caused the wire to glow red hot (e.g. if something short-circuited without the protection of a fuse or trip), the solder would melt and drip, potentially causing other issues. An unlikely scenario admittedly, but the aviation industry tries to protect against even the unlikely stuff.

[@280zone]

Next week, a heat gun to replace that torch for shrinking heat shrink!

[@280zone]

@Hates Spam cause it does a better job and cost like $16

[@280zone]

@Hates Spam wow

[@davemi00]

Just replace the attachment …to the Propane Tank. DUH

[@guestguest]

I’ve always used a dollar general $5 hairdryer.

[@conover1978]

That’s crazy! I just bought all the to do my 70 Monte Carlo and that’s what I went with, different crimpers but same everything else. That shrink tube is awesome! Love the video and all Fab Forms stuff!

[@samilsilta9004]

I loved this vid! This guy was very informative, and had a good "way" about him in the sense that he could convey insider tips! Thank you!

[@johnhumphries4632]

Thanks for all you do for us. I’ve learned a lot watching the Brownell’s show 👍

[@soundman_caraudio]

🙌🙌🙌🙌 It’s fridayyyyyyy fooooool!

[@jake-hy2zb]

Well done. A lot of guys think this is expensive, it's not. It's the right way. Since I build older Jeeps the only difference being I use all American-made marine-grade wire and cables. I'm done with aftermarket fuse blocks too. Too much waste or too expensive for what I need. Again with the right tools and a little knowledge building my own is knowing it is just what I want. I got a lot of my interest in building my own from your previous videos on the relay blocks. Thanks a lot.

[@krysp432]

exactly the info & parts i needed, thanks!

[@kevincampbell8298]

The glue material seals off against corrosion on the bare wire as well.

[@youcanthide004]

PERFECT, just ordered!!!

[@Stenn333]

As Kevin says down the list here...the purpose of the "glue" inside heatshrink tubing, is when the glue activates from heat and then flows, it creates a weatherproof seal...this is "code" in the marine world...which is basically just the outdoors environment, so the automotive environment is basically the same thing as "marine" in terms of the need for weatherproof electrical connections. Usually marine shrink tubing (with the heat-activated glue) is very expensive, but Harbor Freight has a great marine heat-shrink tubing kit with a compartmentalized box of different sizes for $6...only problem is it's all black....so I usually do another red piece of normal tubing over the already installed marine black when doing the positive power side of a circuit. I remember in Air Force electronics school being told to always do a "mechanical" connection, i.e. crimp, followed by a soldered connection, but then heard argument that the marine and aviation electrical code says NOT to solder because of that "solder wicking" into the conductors making it a possible break point at the soldered/unsoldered point due to vibration....BUT the soldered connection also creates even more of a weatherproof connection because the micro airspace between conductors is filled in by solder, preventing the wicking of moisture into that air-space that enables corrosion inside the conductor and lug connection...that we'd never see. So I choose to use my own judgement rather that rigidly following code....connections close to or attached to a vibrating engine might benefit from following that code, while electrical connections at the top of a 35 foot sailboat mast that you can't easily get to, totally exposed to the weather but not so much vibration and movement (if fastened down), might benefit from that 100% weatherproofed connection....crimped, soldered, AND marine shrink tubing. Thanks for the vid ! www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html

[@mattvivona]

It's friday FOOL! 🔥

[@stephaniebublitz9384]

Thanks for the video just ordered these crimpers for my motorcycle cables.

[@codyvannote8466]

I have a hammer style crimper for battery lugs that works really well

[@Charles-lane277]

One trick I do is order color heat shrink and put it on the wire over the terminal so I Don't get them mixed up.

[@Nathan-qm6dh]

I got a set off eBay that wasn't a whole lot more and they are hydraulic...i love em and they have dies that you can switch out that have a - or + logo that stamps into the piece your crimping

[@marinetrax]

Hi Nathan, how is your hydraulic crimper going? Looking at buying one. Not sure if I should go manual one like this one, or hydraulic. thanks

[@pchris6662]

Just be aware that welding cable insulation often can’t handle oil, gasoline, solvents etc. and any “splashes” will turn it to mush over time and create big problems. Battery cables however has tougher insulation. It’s not as flexible, but it’s tougher.

[@maurasmith-mitsky762]

Thanks for the great video. Most informative.

[@saddletramp7215]

Used solder for yrs w/no probs.To each their own. : )

[@Rusty63ss]

I need this tool!! I will be getting to my electrical soon. Should I run those battery cables through the passenger compartment or under the car?

[@tillman40]

Through not under

[@Rusty63ss]

@@tillman40 Thank you!

[@sharonferra111]

What setting did you put the crimp on? For that 1/0 wire

[@eurobeatmachinist732]

I use my press and a 6mm rod for crimping those in.

[@u.s.a.198]

Ty!

[@rgsparber1]

I’m an Electrical Engineer. You did everything right. Well done.

[@2150dalek]

Good tip, hot glue heat shrink.

[@jimmyfish715]

I dig you need this tool. Good videos

[@MrRockydee07]

Great information, And I worked for the company Raychem which invented shrink tubing, Isn't that great stuff . 👍

[@Joeak74]

Hell yes! Thanks for creating the content! Thumbs up!

[@dank6263]

If you do big cables you will want to do more than one crimp (close enough to touch but not overlapping). Rotate from left to right side (with the handles) when crimping and you can avoid curling the end. Your welcome.

[@georgenettlesjr1466]

I read it 10 times and I'm not understanding

[@zxrjimmy1]

Friday fool at last 👍👍

[@genericdude6551]

Make sure that you get a crimper with AWG wire gauge markings and not millimeter markings. The millimeter ones won't properly crimp the connector.

[@StuartJ]

What if you have mm2 cable?

[@polarbear7334]

Thanks

[@bigpuppytools4295]

Great advise as always Sir, keep up the great work.

[@RK-kn1ud]

I usually crimp, then solder after. Works for me. If I didn't already have a hydraulic crimper, I'd probably just solder it. I think either way is a good way to skin this cat.

[@SouthernCrossSailing]

A proper die crimp basically turns it into solid copper and there is no benefit to solder. In fact it shouldn't even really be possible since there's no gap for the solder to wick into. Generally it's not recommended to combine soldering with crimping because solder will eventually 'creep' and weaken the crimped connection. Perhaps there is a circumstance in which it would make sense, but I can't think of one.

[@RK-kn1ud]

@@SouthernCrossSailing I'm too drunk at the moment to think about (or test) the feasibility of solder flowing into a crimped connection. That said, I've put these connections inside a few 1000-2500hp race cars which can vibrate pretty intensely at times. I haven't had a failure, so I'm not going to mess with success. I'd still feel 100% in my work if I simply soldered it. I've seen broken solder joints, but I've only observed them inside joints where you need a microscope to resolder them.

[@SouthernCrossSailing]

@@RK-kn1ud Next time you have your hydraulic die crimper out, cut a waste joint in half and you'll see what I mean. Race cars sound fun. I used to do undersea connectors for submersibles and ROVs. We used NASA workmanship standards and they disallow combining crimping with soldering.

[@RK-kn1ud]

@@SouthernCrossSailing If I get the opportunity, I will give it a try.

[@johnr5545]

Thanks god bless

[@randypatterson8201]

Wow. Would thought that would've been more expensive. Great deal hero

[@WILSON.1]

Why is it that 2/0 copper wire ends are what fit snugly in 1/0 wire? Is it just to get a rise out of me?

[@ko2890]

What ferrule would you use to go from a 2/0 able to a small breaker opening?

[@LTVoyager]

The biggest issue with welding cable for auto use is that the jacket material is often not oil and gas resistant. Auto battery cable is designed for use in an engine compartment where both oil and gas may be present.

[@MoroniGivens-jq9mi]

you drill copper end heat feed soilder in

[@omark2423]

What's the chance I actually watch this video on a Friday

[@drmalenko]

Dont buy cheap crimpers, get the FTZ Correct Crimp... More money, but really good results.

[@Ocalaman]

The crimping tool works well, BUT the one I received from Amazon has the Jaw numbers in millimeters, not AWG wire sizes. So, I have to find a chart that tells me how many millimeters equals each AWG. PITA!

[@orlandoshorter3647]

Which numbers do I set the crimper on for 0 gauge wire?

[@shanewright6958]

Great video 👍👍🇨🇱

[@allmotorpete]

Will this crimper work if I’m crimping multiple wires to a 6awg cable Lug ?

[@Thefabforums]

Yeah I would think so

[@MariaGonzalez-ei1pv]

Im new to this..need your help..I need to buy some heat shrink for that particular battery cable but don't know the size I need to buy the heat shrink.?.can you guide me ?what size I need?

[@waltersweet4595]

Harbor Freight has a kit with most popular sizes and colors.

[@drgolfjim]

You don't tell us what size on the crimper for the gauge wire

[@ianrobinson6788]

This would be better if the closeups were in focus.

[@roberth8123]

I already have this tool fool!

[@heyhayhay247]

Talk about some major overkill with the welding wire. Maybe if you're trying to start a Cummins...

[@AXNJXN1]

In 'Aviation', 'we' most certainly DO NOT use solder...

[@zxrjimmy1]

Need the Friday fool videos 😭😭

[@CHEVYK10]

I used this crimper for my battery/ amplifier wires it's great for the money Don't use welding wire for automotive applications. It not rated for heat or chemicals. For the same price you can get automotive grade ofc wire

[@boxhead7180]

Doesn't do 8AWG? Fittings go from 6 straight to 10....

[@grilledcheeseeater3443]

1/0 is good for 150 Amps

[@ford1546]

Many cable lugs crimping tool crimp not really well but crimp incorrectly or less well. A thin ring in the middle is not good! If you look at battery cables on a car, you'll know!

[@savingkgari]

Where's the link to the tool ??

[@Thefabforums]

In the description

[@joecostu1571]

They don't work in vehicle very difficult. Save your money

[@HydraulicJackandPump]

Very good, How can I contact you?

[@codyshaylyn]

What make is the tool

[@bennyjett357]

What size cable

[@xtv007]

1/0ga

[@BeavBrodie1]

🤙🏼

[@benjimenfranklin3668]

I found a better tool. iCrimp IWS-0810N Battery Cable Terminal Lug Crimping Tool for 8,6,4,2,1,1/0 AWG Electrical Copper Battery Lugs, Fixed Hexagonal Crimping Die Sets.

[@DaBuGzLiFe]

You can solder the tip making sure the solder doesnt run past the terminal. No failure points guaranteed.

[@ezacher4634]

Are crimping me!?

[@MrBlackbutang]

Lol

[@georgenettlesjr1466]

Tinned lugs don't work well . I hate it!!!!

[@897aa33]

No time to listen intros. Cut to the point pls.

[@mm3rik]

i do wish you guys in the us would pronounce SOLDER correctly there is a L in the middle

[@SeriousSchitt]

Absolutely. But than again, I suppose it’s no real difference to those who say ‘than’ when they should be saying ‘then’… I absolutely HATE that!

[@SergioPena20]

Yeah sure. As soon as you start pronouncing aluminum right. There’s only 1 i in the word, why you pronounce it “al-you-mini-um” is beyond me. It’s the same as people that pronounce nuclear with 2 u’s.

[@boxhead7180]

@@SergioPena20 no, aluminium has two i's....

[@SergioPena20]

@@boxhead7180 The American Chemical Society (ACS) adopted ALUMINUM in 1925… - Merriam-Webster Dictionary

[@mdbr-xe5ib]

Both pronunciations are acceptable. If you try to pronounce all English words based on how they’re spelled you’re going to have a bad time.

[@lucashenry9734]

you gay haha