YOU'RE DAMAGING YOUR RV! Learn why Weight Distribution can DESTROY your Travel Trailer!

[@curtgulker6056]

It’s high time the frame manufacturers engineer and build these frames, bumper pull or 5th wheel, to the max instead of the minimum.

[@nymustang5084]

Then you'd have to buy a f450 for the smallest rv.. due to the weight.

[@newenglandrvadventures]

@@nymustang5084 cargo trailers are built better and don’t weight that much more 😂.

[@crappieworldlivescanner1114]

our 2008 excel 37 foot weighs 14,500 with a max load 18700 pin weight is 2950you will need a serious truck

[@sternsher]

While I partially agree... is everyone ready for RVs that are 20-30% higher in weight and 40-60% higher in cost due to regulation?

[@newenglandrvadventures]

@@sternsher to not fall apart? Yes!!!

[@gijoecam]

The purpose of a weight distributing hitch isn't to eliminate squat, it's to redistribute a portion of the tongue weight from the rear axle of the tow vehicle to the front axle of the tow vehicle and trailer axles. Quit worrying about leveling the truck and/or trailer, and worry about the loads involved. The rear of the truck will squat due to adding weight in the bed or tongue weight on the trailer. That's perfectly normal and precisely how springs work. Don't worry about that. Adjust the hitch based on the *loads* on the axles. You're conflating the terms weight, force, energy, and pressure. It's a pet peeve of mine and doesn't help people understand what's involved. We're talking about forces as a result of weights, not energy or pressure.

[@jerrydonovan7507]

yep. I felt that the video beat around the bush. Basically, a weight distribution hitch twists the A frame of the trailer vertically so that the front of the truck gets some of the load. Otherwise, because the hitch is behind the rear wheels of the truck, the front of the truck is lifted up (negative load) and the front tires have less control.

[@chuckshade7959]

Your assessment of the various forces involved is well stated, and our trucks will have spring sag .working for a major transportation company people also forget how imperative it is to have a level trailer . These units are designed to be level to carry the specified weight and to prevent axle overloading and tire failure along with associated Handling problems like tail wag, etc.

[@gerrycollins9409]

My pet peeve too! Imagine the truck’s rear axle had no springs at all but was welded to the frame. The issues would be the same.

[@muscleymanarts]

So as a newbie with a single axle trailer that is within the towing capacity of my Toyota Tacoma that has rear truck squat, should I invest in air suspension to help adjust the squat and just invest in sway bars instead? I'm looking for all the advice I can get.

[@gerrycollins9409]

@@muscleymanarts Sway bars just control sway. (Side to side movement). A weight distribution hitch actually transfers weight to the front wheels instead of removing weight from the front wheels. Air bags really don’t do much. They may make towing feel better with a firmer ride but you are still removing weight from the front axle.

[@markreams3192]

I like the idea of reinforcing the A frame at the point where the weight distribution attaches which is the fulcrum. Adding rear suspension enhancement to a to the rear of a mid size or half ton truck will decrease the amount of weight distribution necessary to keep the truck level. Timbren or Sumo springs as well as air bags make towing with a lighter duty truck much more pleasant. Adding Timbren springs to my Tacoma was the best thing I did to enhance towing.

[@ryanteter]

Absolutely. I pulled a 35’ TT with our 3/4 ton truck for 3 years. The first two years I experimented with a few types of WD systems and never could get one dialed in. The last year or so I discovered the beauty of Timbren springs without any WD. Much more pleasant experience.

[@georgeholmes3411]

JD, proper setup of weight distribution hitches paramount. They should level the trailer then back the tow vehicle up to the hitch. Then adjust the height of the ball to match the trailer hitch. This will help eliminate some of the down force.

[@YukonRJ]

WDH is basically like adding wheelbarrow handles to the back of the tow vehicle. Then the A frame of the trailer holds these handles in place.

[@edwardman1742]

Exactly how I think of it!

[@n6nvr]

And where the A-frame is welded to the main frame is like your lower spinal column which has a little more flexibility and ability when younger to handle some compressive loads.

[@rustydusty1111]

Just another reason I love my 5th wheel RV and my gooseneck flat deck.

[@YukonRJ]

Reinforced my trailer A-frame. Using a 1 ton truck and WDH is in full use as it takes all twitchiness away. No issues at all after 5 years and 50000 miles of travel, including to Alaska and back twice.

[@Bradamsmx5]

We have a 2005 Sunnybrook travel trailer. Dry weight is around 7500 lbs. GVWR is around 9800 lbs. The entire chassis on this travel trailer is 100% Box steel. The tongue is 2x6 rectangular tube steel, the full length of the chassis is double stacked 2x6 tube steel. The main reason we still have this RV is that you can not find a comparable unit on the market today. Fully boxed steel frame chassis and 100% aluminum frame roof and walls. Full fiberglass end caps front and rear. Thank you, but I’ll keep my old one. Engineers now are so obsessed with weight, they’re sacrificing what matters.

[@justinr9753]

He was reporting on lippert frame failing and they ended up buying him and now they are great frames

[@PaulJagerEngineering]

The WD Hitch creates a triangular platform that resists side-side roll on the trailer. This is great for resistance to wind, sway etc. So you need some load on the L-brackets to make that work. For rear suspension drop, using airbags to set ride height, provided the truck axles are ~ evenly loaded, there's your optimal towing setup. Trailer length doesn't necessarily have high hitch weight.

[@charlesholland8073]

Nonsense. The frames are breaking because they are too cheaply made.

[@chrisistocool1]

I agree with you. It's a cheep problem not a weight problem

[@sunroy1]

Yes, you’re right.

[@scottfirman]

Exactly. Most RV dealers set up the hitch weight distribution when you pick up the camper. The frame issue is a manufacturing issue.

[@soiboughtabus9563]

Lowest bidding dollar

[@johnnyBqwazy]

Non-prideful mass production. Like everything these days. Plus inferior supply material

[@sneidsontheroad]

Content providers these days are moreless giving us what WE want to see or what a particular sponsor wants them to show us. We need to take a minute and appreciate people like yourself. Thank you for constantly educating your audience and maintaining a balanced channel JD. Love it!

[@kcwerv]

When I bought our new 30 Foot Airstream I bought a dually in order to keep from using a weight distribution hitch I used on our previous trailer using a 1/2 ton pulling a 25 foot Airstream. I was always over payload with this setup too. I decided I'd had enough of this setup. After towing it 50K miles all across the country without any issues I am glad I went this direction.

[@unclebilly1353]

Never ever thought about the physics of where and how the weight distribution worked. Thanks for the info. I run a aluminium toy hauler with a heavy can am inside. I definitely going to take a link out of the chain on my weight distribution. I think I may be putting too much pressure on my frame. Great info to have . I should be more in tune with my set up. Thank for the info.

[@bounderchris]

Anyone else subscribed to big truck big Rv and big truck big travels? The second channel actually has a huge setup! Both good channels.

[@JosephBrown83805]

Another great video! It just seems like the RVers that need this info the most don’t watch videos like yours. It’s so common to see, especially toy haulers, with truck and trailer way down at their connection spot. On this trip while stopped and having lunch in our trailer, we watched a 1500 Ram truck pulling at least a 30 foot toy hauler trailer, not a 5th wheel, as he had to disconnect his truck, Jack up his trailer in the front, to make it able to get the loading ramp low enough to load his Harley trike into the trailer. Very heavy trike loaded and connected to his truck again and I’m certain the truck would have been very light in front end steering the front was so high up and the rear of the truck and the trailer hitch were so low down. Add to it a full truck of 4 adults and several ice chests in the truck bed he loaded with bags of ice and water, sodas and beer from the market. We were amazed!

[@fasteddie617]

All great tips. I find it amusing that you use your 240bhle as a spare living room in your yard 😆 I use it as our summertime park camper with the wife and son. We have a half ton Lariat, pull it up and down the East coast in the summer. Easier to pull something with payload wiggle room 👌 My rule of thumb. Stay under 85% of your paylaod and towing capacity respectively. If you're pushing it and uncomfortable. Get a smaller trailer or a bigger truck. I'm not here to critique others. I know how the the weights and measurements guys can be a pain in the balls. Side note, I enjoy your Class A reviews with guest appearances from Matt. Thanks JD.

[@MrGwarren1]

Great topic. To bad rv dealers don’t educate potential customers on the risk of towing large travel trailers with typical half ton trucks.

[@hottroddchevelle]

They do the opposite. They'll tell you a half ton will pull this no problem.

[@mark98070]

Simplified.. Picture a wheel barrel...with the handles being the arms of the weight distribution hitch. When put under tension they have a lifting affect essentially transfer- ing weight off the rear of the tow vehicle and transferring that weight to the steer axle

[@MrFturner]

One thing that was not mentioned in this video, and a LOT of folks, and I mean a LOT over load their trailers and tow vehicles. You can have the best WDH out there, but things will bend and break eventually if the trailer/tow vehicle are over loaded. If you have to crank the crap out of the WDH to get things close to level, you are over loaded and/or unbalanced on your load. 1/2 ton pickups don't have a lot of payload capacity, and once you load up the family, hook up the trailer, you are going to be close to its limits because even the tongue weight is added to your tow vehicle payload. A 4000lb trailer will typically have about 400lbs of tongue weight. Add a 4 people fam and you can easily be approaching another 400-500 lbs, add bikes, add fuel and so on. Doesn't take long. Manage your weight, keep it all within the limits placarded on your trailer and tow vehicle, size the WDH accordingly (you can go too big and break things) and use some common sense.... you shouldn't have any issues.

[@scottfirman]

I preach to everyone concerning over loading both the camper AND tow vehicle. Tires have a rated side wall weight capability. If you exceed this, you risk a blow out on your tow vehicle as well as the trailer. I learned this years ago owning a 3/4 ton conversion van.

[@n2cycles]

Some people really think they need to have the truck not squat. 1/2 ton trucks are designed to ride better than 3/4 trucks. A couple inches of squat is not the end of the world. I set mine up to sit level with the front end and have the trailer sit level with the truck. I have a 5k trailer for my 150. It tows fine without a wd hitch. I use one since it helps with sway. My equalizer hitch has sway built in to the design. I feel like this is ideal for my combination

[@williamarmstrong9970]

JD, Marc and Trish@ KYD just had this very experience, ( NEW SEASON 2024 ) while driving through NM or TX they found that they couldn't open the battery door on the A-frame. Marc disconnected the WD even though it was very windy didn't seem to cause any sway. Marc said he will do a follow-up next week.

[@kyleuptergrove4040]

Thanks BTBR. This is extremely helpful. As an owner of a 34 ft toyhauler greywolf owner, who used to tow with a 1/2 ton but moved up to a 250 and this really helped me understand how my hitch is working better on my trailer with the different trucks. Keep this up!

[@Cowboy67801]

Another thing to mention is the force put on the frame when you cross a rough bridge as your tow vehicle is bouncing up and down! Imagine what the pounds of force would be then. A lot more than what pressure your putting on the frame originally. Manufactures are always cutting back on materials because the more materials the more cost of production. Stay with a RV manufacture that has a good reputation for good frames. Norco frames have been trouble free when compared to Lippert frames.

[@JulieLynn1997]

Which manufacturers use Norco frames? How do we find out this information?

[@hondo1829]

Google Norco frames lol 😂

[@scottfirman]

We found our stock shock absorbers were not up to the task of handling the rebound from towing our camper. They were fine with no load. We replaced the stock shocks with premium shocks. No more rebound issues.

[@On-down-the-road]

I use my distribution hitch for anti sway. It is soposed to do both. Yes I have a 35' camper and a 2500 Suburban. I do not have a lot of tension, just enough for the anti sway. With the kitche in front bedroom in back super slide and a bed slide. And a wife with a lot of clothing. Somtimes it is rear heavy. Thats what the hitch is to be used for. Truck squatting should have springs, or air bags to correct.

[@peteowens3033]

interesting points. I have towed 6,000 to 7,500 lbs travel trailers with 1/2 ton trucks for over 20 years and never had any such issues however, I have always used WDH units with flex bars rated for the trailer weight range I am towing.

[@baddestmofoalive]

I tow a 33’ ~7400 gross lb trailer with my 5thGen Ram 1500 with a WDH and it’s well within the SAE J2807 specs even with 15% tongue weight. All capacities and axle weights verified on a CAT scale before each trip and it tows just fine. What’s funny is my 5th Gen 1500 has more power and better capacities than my 2003 2500 did

[@stevenbullock9276]

@@baddestmofoalive What engine/ ratio do you have? My 2016 1500 Sport 5.7 w/ 3:21 ratio struggles with our 24', 4800 lb trailer. I'm guessing the axle ratio is the biggest culprit. I do have a WDH.

[@baddestmofoalive]

@@stevenbullock9276 yeah I’ve got 3.92:1 I guarantee that’s your problem

[@aarony8534]

@@stevenbullock9276 2013 Ran 1500 5.7 and 3.92 gears. Pulling a Jayco 324 bds which is about 8200 lbs

[@stevenbullock9276]

@@aarony8534 Due to the ratio and age/ other problems with the truck, I traded it for a new 2500 Tradesman. Normal gas mileage sucks (I knew that going in), but towing mileage is actually better than the 1/2 ton. Now we have the ability to upgrade to a larger trailer in the future.

[@The_Opinion_of_Matt]

Reinforcing the A-frame section is just chasing moving goal posts. Reinforcing the A-frame would add tongue weight which means you need to add more weight distribution spring force, which means you need to reinforce the A-frame more. Also, you would just be moving the point of failure somewhere else and I expect replacing a damaged A-frame is much easier (i.e. costs less) than whatever the next point of failure would be. The only real correction for a overloaded truck is to get a bigger truck.

[@michaelbezos2969]

Great educational video. Gonna save this one for future reference. Especially if looking at older units to haul. Thank you, most appreciated.

[@marksullivan8200]

If your truck has leaf springs you'd likely benefit adding RAS road active suspension that'll improve you leaf springs 20-40% & benefit in several ways & likely avoid some of these problems

[@ptcclatlptcclatl1683]

JD, you didn’t mention anything about sway control. Sway control is based on the downward force for friction.

[@BTBRVReviews]

Yep

[@dalemarshall9736]

Mark on Keep Your Daydream in this weeks video with their first tow of new Airstream found that weight distribution caused front storage door to bind because of that frame flex. Because they have an F250 they pulled off the bars and no more binding.

[@bobashwell9868]

Watched the episode; looks to be an Airstream model only problem bc of their A frame. But, airbags, sumo springs, or Bilstein 5100 shocks to level the TV is the first step before weight distribution. Mind that your TVs hitch is even rated for the tongue weight that you're loading on it.

[@timeonly1401]

It may just be me, but I found your explanation of a weight-distribution hitch wanting. I'm only understanding like 1/3 to 1/2 of what you are saying. You pointing and curving your hand, etc, help some, but it's still unclear. Maybe on your next attempt, you could draw a simple diagram and show with arrows the forces & levering action involved? Or, even better, you can make a model and SHOW the difference between a regular hitch and a WD-hitch? Just saying...

[@Wheelman151]

Excellent point; fully agree with your suggestion, and I'm an Engineer. He's talking about a Free-Body Diagram JD, and "should should you accept this mission, JD", while you're at it, could you please distinguish between the intent of "anti-sway" bars and "weight distribution hitch"? Thanks in advance!

[@55YAMAHARACER55]

I had the same thought, this should have been a whiteboard video explaining the process with a free body diagram. Use simple numbers, colored arrows, and most people would get a better understanding of what's being explained.

[@jayphilbert5845]

Clearly you don’t know about trucks

[@wondernut1181]

Would have shortened the video by at least 5 minutes with a drawing too.

[@Buck0seven]

My RV dealer installed a 10,000# WDH to my 3000# trailer before I really understood what they were all about. About a year into using it, I hit a bump in the road and the a-frame bent. Thankfully I wasn’t stranded and could get the trailer home. I had the bent frame repaired by an RV repair shop then tossed the WDH to the side. I never really needed it to begin with. Lesson learned.

[@ride-electric]

The rear of the tow vehicle is supposed to squat. Whats important is the rise of the front of the tow vehicle. Correct the front and the rear takes care of its self. Most trucks have a 2-3" higher rear. They're meant to sag.

[@iana36s]

Keep Your Day Dream is just experiencing the impact of to much weight distribution. Check out there last video.

[@mikedunston3479]

Simple fix by the right combination of truck and trailer

[@mountainsintomemories]

Light Duty Trucks with Leveling Kits…. Then they use the WDH to try and keep their truck level while towing. Trucks have rake for a reason. WDH is for returning steering and braking performance to the front of the truck, you’re only supposed to return half of the weight back to the front.

[@mwaynem]

Because of advice I've been getting from you. I don't put my weight distribution bars until I'm on level ground. My driveway is steep, and the departure angle could cause unnecessary stress. Some of our boondock sites also have dips and rises. So I will remove the bars before intering. I've mentioned this to some of our fellow boondockers, and they are surprised that they never thought of it. Driving into these sites, you're usually driving at lower speeds and don't need your bars for sway control. The only downside is finding a safe place to stop and remove my bars.

[@jbrous3602]

I feel a slight difference in steering without a wdh, the part that makes it dangerous for the front end to be too light is steering and braking in snow, rain, gravel and high speeds. 2023 Ram 3500 swd, 4000 payload towing 10,000 toy haul.

[@joshuahayes2564]

Good video but.... A lot of it was subjective. How does one quantity whether they're applying too much weight distribution?

[@MGontario]

The older trailers didnt have that problem cause the frame was bigger but now people want to tow a 25ft with a tacoma so they make the frames thinner=weak plus frame makers are probably buying the cheap china steel which rusts fast ....just to save what? 300pounds? if i would buy a new one probably reinforce the a frame in front with heavy gauge angle iron and that would add maybe a whooping 50 pounds to the trailer....

[@harryslater2587]

KYD took theirs off last week because it was causing the frame to flex and their tongue box wouldnt open. Also seems to be a potential cause of the Airstream frame separation.

[@JandARVReviews]

I saw that too.

[@donhaas8547]

The trailer should have been built to withstand a weight distribution hitch

[@JandARVReviews]

@@donhaas8547 I agree. Why don’t manufacturers build them with WD in mind.

[@johnirwin1837]

@@donhaas8547 ,they have been trying, HAHAHA, for 4 decades.

[@Shelbyj13]

I'm not sure they build them with adding toilet paper inside them in mind.

[@bradleygordon5973]

Thank you for this! And for repeating yourself. I didn't have to go back at any point in your explanation. Knowledge = Safety

[@wrxs1781]

The trend today that seems to be the norm is smaller and smaller tow vehicle's, due to cost and economy. My rule of thumb it take you vehicle towing weight and tow trailers that only weigh 70% of the tow vehicle capacity, and adjust the WDH accordingly.

[@ThePNWRiderWA]

Solid information. Similar things happen with 5th wheel toy haulers that they overload them and all the weight is in the back of the 5th wheel. Then they wonder why the frame cracks at the hitch.

[@n6nvr]

The old original and proper concept for the ball hitch was to allow pivoting around all 3 axis. You have a WDH on there and you go even slowly over a bend like a driveway or over a railroad grade crossing or rough dirt road it's going to put a tremendous torquing moment on the weld where the A-Frame meets the main frame. I suspect that in too many cases there is a dealer trying to sell a WDH and/or trailer to an under-educated buyer who has a tow vehicle with inadequate capacity and/or the TV hitch height is too much of a mismatch to the trailer. It's been a long time since I took a Statics or Dynamics class, but I'm willing to bet that a properly designed and weight adequate frame that doesn.t use a WDH isn't going to bend under the trailer body. No matter what they say about frames being designed to flex, if the body structure isn't designed to accept the flex, it's going to pull out mounting screws and bolts or break the walls. Flex equals fatigue equals failure. A certain manufacturer of a popular line of small trailers had a bad run of models where the frames were made too small and light and unable to mate successfully with the lightweight body structure over more than a few years. Add that to overly aggressive marketing to buyers with poorly matched tow vehicles and they almost but not quite ruined their reputation. It appears that both suspensions and frames have been strengthened.

[@scottfirman]

I just went out and tightened all the bolts on my hitch and camper. We just came back from Colorado. I am going to put this out there for everyone. CHECK YOUR BOLTSAND NUTS. Every trip you take, recheck your sway bar bolts and nuts, If your hitch hardware is loose, you lose that tension you need to evenly distribute the weight on your vehicle and trailer.

[@Cleo_and_Mark]

That's one of the very nice things about the Weigh Safe hitches, it has the gauge in it that lets you know how much weight you are distributing (generally 2-3 times the tongue weight).

[@Kwikrnu]

Try a northwood RV. They build their own frames.

[@PygmySurfer]

GM recommends a WDH when towing more than 7000 lbs with a 1500. Ford recommends it for towing over 5000 lbs with an F-150. I don’t know if you have a contact with any of the manufacturers, but it’d be cool if you could do a video talking with them about this.

[@DanielJohnson-ec8rk]

Dodge recommends using the hooks in front as ford hooks and Chevy hooks. To rescue the poor bastards

[@patricksquires77]

So many stressed RV frames by even the entries and exits of some campgrounds and parking lots - that big dip… 😬. Those big grade transitions are bad news for your hitch mount and trailer frame if your weight distribution is on tight… oh boy I wince.

[@tommyNix4098]

I you are using a weight distribution hitch and drive over a big dip in the road it puts much more weight on the A-frame. Going over a dip is where you are most likely to damage the frame.

[@BillNichols-e6t]

Thank you for the simple common sense explanation. I found it very helpful.

[@brianhalliday2384]

That Surveyor rig has a fairly whimpy A-frame to start with. The Forest River trailers always have crappy welded Lippert frames. The BAL frame is huck-bolted, much larger sections and built for heavy WD. The frame should be a top consideration when buying a trailer. I have done 12,000 towing miles with my BAL framed Venture RV in two years with an Equalizer hitch and it is rock solid on the road.

[@wylie3150]

Add an adjustable air suspension system to the truck and the sag problem is solved. I did this on my truck and it makes setting up the Weight Distribution system simple.

[@1798iscomingback]

We didn't have any problem when the WD bars where TAPPERED and effectivelly worked as a spring. These new WD models with bars that have a straight profile don't flex, they seem to be designed by people that have no clue why they are called spring bars... If you have a "spring" bar that can't flex , when you need that to work as a spring it won't and something else will give up, if it is not the hitch then the trailer frame. That is the reason I always used the tried and true round bar system. Andy, from CamAm Airstream had an article several years ago saying exactly that. They set up minivans and cars for towing 30ft trailers (airstream in Canada) and never had a problem with it.

[@brianbelliveau5551]

If it’s installed correctly it is not a problem

[@itinerantrebel1799]

Great video and much appreciated. I’ve never felt safe using weight distribution on my 30 foot travel trailer but I do use an anti sway bar. I pull it with an F450 and with generators, extra water, air compressor, and floor jacks in the back of the truck was always worried that going over a bump that it would just crack the A frame at an in opportune time when it transferred weight onto the a frame via the WD hitch.

[@Myself-u5d]

Luckily you have an F450 and don’t need anti sway bars or a weight distribution hitch

[@RedneckVR1]

This is the reason I Went from a Weight Distribution Hitch to a BP Conversion. The overall towing experience is like a night and day difference.

[@mikefoehr235]

What is BP? Never heard before.

[@RedneckVR1]

@@mikefoehr235 Bumper Pull Conversion. It converts the travel trailer into a Gooseneck Trailer. I tell everyone just cause i like to confuse them with my trailer. "Its a Bumper Pull Gooseneck Travel Trailer". Makes a Bumper Pull Pull like 5th wheel in a way if i have to explain it better

[@michaelblankenship548]

I’ve seen the bp conversions and it sounds great, but I have one concern about them. Since they attach to your A-frame and adds the gooseneck out in front, isn’t that like putting a giant lever on the front of the trailer and increasing the flex load on the A-frame? Couldn’t that potentially bend the frame as well?

[@craighennager5393]

I have pulled a momentum 31G for 4000 miles with the BP Conversion. Night and day for sway and stablation.

[@RedneckVR1]

@@michaelblankenship548 I felt the same way but after running it for a few years and I feel good with my purchase. I too sometimes worry about the a frame due to it being made of thin material but after being on the road and traveling down some pretty rough areas I seen how well it holds up and where the mounting points are located plus they added a brace which is sold separately to go under to strengthen the A frame for anyone wanted a extra layer of protection for the heavier and longer rigs.

[@yours8601]

One recommendation that should have been mentioned is to remove the weight distribution arms once you leave a paved road. The articulation and bouncing of "primitive roads" creates excessive downward force on the A frame and could cause it to fail and bend.

[@firetrain3]

If you load your trailer properly, and you tow with the right vehicle, you don't need weight distribution. There are a lot of people who never use these hitches because they know how to distribute the weight in the trailer.

[@KTMr-sw7iz]

@@firetrain3 correct !

[@MrColinmillar]

I had a gm 1500 cc6.6 max tow, when hooked to my 13 jayco eagle 316rkds I couldn't set up the wdh to max setup, the receiver had enough torsion on it to touch the rear bumper. I never towed it more than 15 miles, even though I was within spec, I found it was pretty hard on the truck when hitting rough spots. I will either borrow or rent a 3/4 next time I need to move it.

[@BlackMassNova]

Ok, first of all, it's called frame wrap. You are worrying people for no reason. It's the same as putting a 4-link, or a triangulated 3-link suspension setup on your racecar. The bars on a wdh take the majority of the "flex" or the frame wrap, and they do exactly what they say, they "Distribute" the weight of the trailer between the trailer, and the truck. They are designed to transfer all that force evenly between the tt and the TV. If you are referring to HuckBolt style frames, then the bolts themselves tend to sheer before the frame gives way. You are fear mongering people to get views. If you ever see how the delivery guys pull these things down the road, you would probably never buy one to begin with.

[@-b1ghorn087]

Never thought about this. I have a 7000# TT with a 10k WDH on my ram 1500. Squats crazy but I always just used the WDH to transfer weight to steer tires. Never cared to much about the squat really. Though I will be adding airbags soon for aesthetics and squat reduction. My truck is rated to pull 10,500.

[@davidgates1122]

I have a BS in physics. I am salivating at the opportunity to post this comment. One simple way of reducing the pressure is of course to reduce the tongue weight. But the other way would be to lengthen the weight distribution bars. With most setups, the length could be almost doubled.

[@randyb9310]

The bars would have to have a larger cross-section or utilize a stronger(more expensive) material for the increased stress and strain profiles to be able to lengthen the WDH bars.

[@aarony8534]

My dealer setup my 10k wdh hitch brackets at 26” from the ball center. I figured out the needed to be 29” to give more weight distribution. Also upgraded to 12k bars bc dry tongue weight was already 1030 lbs.

[@Itsa_Mea]

Overloading the truck bed and/or trailer tongue, then trying to compensate with an equalizer hitch is the recipe for bent or sbapped trailer frame.

[@Itsa_Mea]

Fat thumbs on a smartphone keyboard strikes again. SNAPPED not sbapped.

[@badnotch]

My f250 has air assist springs and they have helped tremendously, no need for the weight distribution hitch, 25 psi each bag and good to go

[@filicandadsjournal4221]

some things I did is to sorta equalize the weight load. we do have multiple storage on our 28 1/2 foot trailer. When it gets too heavy on front I shift some of the weight at the back since there’s aome storage space underneath the bunk bed. The RV was preset with tge new WDH from the dealer but as soon we start filling it up I adjusted it once then that’s it!. For a half ton owner (Tundra) I think I lean towards the “safety” side by staying between 20ft to less than 29ft max. Anything over that like a 32 would leave you with a trailer with more stress on the front A-frame.

[@Kwikrnu]

I have a f350 SRW long bed towing about 7k lb arctic fox trailer. Maybe 8-900lb hitch weight. It tows much better with the weight distribution /anti-sway hitch. I tried 2k without, then 2k miles with, and the difference is stark. Even though I have a pretty high payload capacity and hitch rating I crank down on the weight distribution bars. No problems with the A frame, but maybe it’s because it has a northwood frame.

[@ALMX5DP]

Are there any documented cases of a WDH causing a failure as described? Water intrusion and rust seem like a separate issue that can compromise any trailer frame or towing scenario. I suppose perhaps there are people who use a stronger WD setup for their given trailer type/weight, but that seems to be again a separate issue as well.

[@Itsa_Mea]

Yes there are cases to a specific brand a few years ago . People were snapping the tongues right off. There's other vids on it.

[@HurleyGM]

Very interesting video! Thanks for the info. Humid air gets inside steel and it rusts from the inside out regardless of whether the tube steel is capped.

[@kevinblatter2369]

If the rated hitch weight of my truck significantly exceeds the tongue weight of the trailer, do I even need a weight distribution system?

[@jasonlemar19]

Enjoy your videos. On this one specifically you should have also added the advantages of improving the truck suspension to work with and compliment the weight distribution system so sag prevention is not solely the responsibility of the weight distribution bars putting more pressure on the tongue frame. Again. Great info. Great videos. But the entire truck trailer system should all harmonize for the proper balance. JDL

[@TTrike]

Dont forget about A-frame failure back in the early 2000's with Weekend Warrior which turned into a lawsuit and recall. I think alot of RV manufactures learned from that scenario and improved the A-frames.

[@keesras763]

I like your explanation. Being a first time USA RV trailer user coming from Europe I wonder why the trailers here typically have a lot more load on the hitch. In europe we typically have between 100-250 lbs which is no real problem for most truck here. Another question I have is: have you heard of any problems with the hitch connections to the truck. The truck hitch suffers just as much as the trailer A-frame like you point out.

[@Kentucky4runner]

Just watched this weeks KYD video and interesting that they took off the weight distribution bars on the new airstream. I am interested to see how both you and them talk about this

[@NicoleMcKinley-dx6wb]

@@Kentucky4runner I think these are causing the front end separation on the Airstreams. We don’t use one and have no issues…

[@nathanwoten6236]

They should look at Dimond C and the engineered beam design they use on their trailers. It's an excellent design feature that puts metal where it's needed and saves a good amount of weight while still adding strength

[@Green_Leaf]

This is why we invested in airbags for our truck. About 60 lbs will level our truck with trailer.

[@oscaralfonso6300]

Finally, someone mentioned air bags. I added that as well to my truck and I wonder how much it helps

[@anthonyrider9190]

Question for you BTBRV, I have a travel trailer that weighs approximately 10500, tow vehicle is the 3500 Ram SRW w/ air suspension so weight isn’t an issue and the trucks suspension lifts the vehicle up almost without sag without any problem. So I use my blu ox for a sway control more than weight distribution., but still cinch it pretty good for sway. Your input please would be greatly appreciated.

[@jerrypopoy8397]

This video probably has some very good information in it, but I just can watch it because the narrator just talks too dang much. Quit repeating your points and get to it. Sorry I had to quit watching after 4:10.

[@oscaralfonso6300]

Please talk about sway bars and the effect of using air bags on the truck. Also, Iam not sure what are the limits depending on the turck you have for WDH. Could you clarify this topic just a little bit more. Other than that, I found this topic very interesting and essential information not only for deterring damage that could cost thousands but also deterring a serious accident while on the road or tough road. Also, what would be the best adivce to strengthening the A-frame.

[@f250x3]

I am a bit shocked that you put a video out that puts weight distribution and “leveling” in the same sentence. WD is NOT for leveling by any means. WD is for distributing a prescribed amount ( usually the vehicle manufacturer) of weight back on the front axel. For example, my F250 recommends 50% back. This is done crudely by measuring the front wheel well before and after loading. You can dial it in by using scales if you have the time. The only way to prevent squat or “level” a truck is properly equip the springs or add air bags. Actually, adding airbags and leveling the truck with the load requires reworking the WD to ensure, in my case 50%, of the weight is transferred to the front axel. A well balanced WD set up could still leave a truck looking squatted in the rear. When the dealer set my truck up initially, they had the bars so tight it bent the 2” shank. All to “level” the truck. If you would like to know more, we can chat on the side.

[@cjoutdooradventures4896]

Maybe offer some ideas of those proactive approaches? Airbags in the truck to offset some of the sag? But would that reduce the friction for the sway control in some of the hitches?

[@dv7431]

I would also recommend you reach out to pro pride in Holly Michigan. I would love to see the review

[@Slappy-wf8wz]

Awesome video and information. Everything you said makes perfect sense.

[@dv7431]

I agree with you. We use and engineered hitch. Pro pride p3 . The hole experience with this setup is way different. Then an curt or blue ox or any other bar system. The other thing is I am over trucked for camper because of your videos. Including the travel trailer I saw on your channel and bought it.

[@HuggyBearHikes]

@dv7431 I also have the ProPride 3P hitch. I added Sumo Springs to my 09 Silversdo that is factory spec to ull 9500 pounds. My camper is 39' long and 8700 pounds. The rear of my truck only squats 1.5" and the front end of my truck hasn't raised at all. Truck and camper are totally level when driving down the road.

[@montepaulson3131]

One of the biggest concerns, especially if your really applying lots of force to the bars, is when you drive into a sharp uphill approach into a gas station, parking lot etc, those forces are even more insane to the extreme. My biggest fear is ferry ramps going on and off the ferry, they are extreme and you often don't have the opportunity before and after getting on and off the ferry to loosen up the bars so you can reduce the stress. I use my bar tension mildly, but the ferry access always makes me cringe.

[@heathobarr4785]

So guys I’ve got a question. I run a 3/4 ton with bags and a 36’ camper with a Recurve R6 weight distribution hitch. When I first had the hitch installed the truck didn’t have air bags. So I use the air bag to help level the truck and put more weight on the front. Question is, Am I counter acting the WD hitch and or adding more force to the trailer a-frame?

[@elywalton7147]

While I agree with your description of the stress on the A-frame caused by WDH, you seem to have neglected (unless I missed it) the mitigating effect of spring bars... They are rated in pounds for a reason: controlling the forces in the system... Taken to the extreme, the WDH can be rigid, which would exponentially increase the static and dynamic stresses on the frames of both the tow vehicle and trailer... As stated earlier, a couple of simple diagrams would have helped the presentation... Just sayin' 😎

[@brianmccarthy8215]

If you select the proper weight classification of hitch for your camper, the components of the hitch system will likely fail before the a-frame. The problem is when people think they're "playing it safe" by using a 14k WD setup on a 6k trailer for example.

[@jimgreeves7928]

Don’t you think the frame manufacturers build in the use of weight distribution hitchs? To compensate for the weight of the trailer

[@melendyladyboykin2482]

I just learned a few things. WOW I had no idea. I could have ruin my camper back when I was pulling it with my SUV. What's sad is though when we bought it, they knew that and didn't tell us. FYI: I don't have an SUV any more. I have a 2500 RAM diesel that properly pulls it. Retailers shouldn't be allowed to legally sell and set up something that is dangerous.

[@Wheelman151]

I bought a used 36' 5th wheel from a Name dealer and they never once asked what I planned to tow it with!! They were also willing to sell it as-is with 10 year old tires ("great tread"), until I read the date code and insisted on a new set, mounted & alanced as part of the sale. Better do your own research. I've found BTBRV to take a conservative approach when giving advice. Dealerships display a bias toward selling a unit, over proper fit, in my humble experience.

[@n6nvr]

We were always asked what our tow vehicle was. First TV was a 3/4 ton 4x4, then a Tahoe and now a Colorado diesel. Knowing we were primarily going to have two adultsand a fews small kids or no kids, and going out to the desert or up to the Sierras and definitely NOT wanting a large rig on those roads and letting them know what we planned we avoided all but one dealer trying to sell us too big a trailer. We walked out the second time he tried to show us too big a rig. Unfortunately for him, we were edumacated on what we wanted.@@Wheelman151

[@loneranger8293]

Great video sir!! Easy to follow. I tow a 27' travel trailer (5000 lbs loaded) with my 2023 1500 Silverado truck. Is the goal to completely eliminate sag or I imagine some sag is normal ? Begs the question how does one know "too much weight" is being transferred back to the tt?? Thanks.

[@shabadabadoo4326]

curious about your opinion on the bumper-pull to gooseneck contraptions....

[@mikerees9158]

How does a WeighSafe hitch come into play here? It’s using tongue weight, math and lengths/angles to determine how much weight to move around; it’s not taking into account HD truck suspension vs. F150/1500 suspension. From your video, it sounded like you would dial the hitch in LESS for a HD truck since a HD truck would need less help, however the WeighSafe doesn’t care what you’re pulling with. Can we just trust the WeighSafe math regardless of what you’re pulling with?

[@dougdoris8622]

Great question.

[@robjohn6943]

So how does one know if they truly need weigh distribution?

[@dmoreno4082]

My understanding on weight distrbution hitches were to prevent sway as well. Is that right? Also love that you educate everyone. Just wondering if you could use an erase board to draw it out so that we can get a better visual.

[@kx519]

They very much reduce sway, but not as substantially as a proper swaybar.

[@JRock-wr1xn]

Thanks for the great info. By the way, there is a face in the tree behind the A frame in the background. Check out it

[@jerryrupe1696]

What you are saying about pressure points is correct, but the biggest issue is inadequate frames. I have a 3860# single axle TT that's 23ft long and produces 800+# of tongue weight dry. My 10x6 enclosed trailer has twice the framing under it. The frame has always been a fear of mine and im seriously contemplating setting my camper on a reputable built flatbed trailer, unfortunately that's going to make my rig 3000# heavier.

[@dennisd7292]

Do you think a Ford F350 dually pulling a 26 ft Flafstaff weighing 8,200 lbs would need a weight distribution system?

[@OpenCarryUSMC]

I’ve had a GMC dully and barely noticed a big trailer behind me. Just need a height adjustable hitch to make sure things stay level on the trailer.

[@CampPerry1970]

That’s why all 1/2 Ton Trucks that pull any sizable T/T should install Firestone Air Bags on axles. This will aid in less squatting in the beginning therefore less arch effect