TPU Cheat Codes! Get SHINY high quality TPU 3D prints on your ender 3 / other bowden printer.

[@schogaia]

I'm subscribed to a lot of 3d printing channels but your channel just goes beyond! I'm so glad I found it - please never stop making videos. Thank you so much for your excellent work!

[@brandonward3998]

I know this was published a year ago but wow! I can't believe I just now came across this. Your explanation is fantastic and the physics behind it makes so much sense. Thank you so much for sharing your findings. You, sir, are a genius.

[@boopidy696]

Wow! Speeding up my print speed made all the difference, had so much popping it was crazy and this was with a brand new roll of TPU. Went from 15mm/s up to 20mm/s and went from a total mess to smooooooth lines! Night and day difference!

[@pieterpretorius1014]

i print at 20mm/s with infill at 34mm/s, nozzle temp at 230

[@StaticM223]

Printing rn at 270mm/s on the k1 max with 75A lol

[@lmoraisvieira]

I have an Ender 3 Pro with a lot of upgrades but bowden. Thought I could never print with TPU and you prove that we can! First print and it was a success! The world needs more people like you, thank you so much! Warmest regards, Luis Claudio

[@JoeZelMusic]

First off, thank you for your TPU bowden content. You're a legend! I thought I saw somewhere what I am about to share and would LOVE to see a video that accentuates this issue. I was simply getting twists in my gear assembly and didn't understand why. Then I had the epiphany to pull out the TPU from my Sunlu drier like yours and lay it flat on the floor like 10 feet if it. I came back like 45 minutes later, and the light bulb came on. The sheer action of unwinding a spool of TPU causes twisting. Once I figured this out, I now simply pull out the filament from the drier every hour or so and rotate it (clockwise in my case) to get rid of the twisted curling. I also rotate beyond it, just to prolong how much I have between my detangling intervals. Thanks again for your amazing content, which motivates fools like me and my Adventurer 3 (MP Voxel flashed).

[@chrismay2298]

The bit about the retraction speed causing the stepper vibration is exactly what I was troubleshooting after switching my kossel to the same BMG clone... Two years later! Nice video.

[@802Garage]

Watching ALL of your TPU videos while printing my first retract tower with some Longer brand translucent green TPU. Random Chinese filament that was the cheapest I could find. So far it's going really well! Thanks for all the awesome info.

[@DaveArnoldFCI]

Thank you for this video!! Your 0.6mm settings worked perfectly with Gizmodorks Shore 96A TPU on my Ultimaker 2. Note for Old Ultimaker owners like myself: The Ultimaker 2 doesn't have an exchangeable nozzle. I had to go online and search for "Heater Block Nozzle kit Compatible with Ultimaker 2." I was able to use my old heater and sensor, so it was only a $40 problem, and now I can switch back and forth between 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles (so yourself a favor and get a 7mm wrench if you don't have one). Thanks for your careful thinking Lost in Tech!

[@LostInTech3D]

Good to hear, and you are very welcome!

[@JakeStaines]

Thanks for this - and for the Noulei recommendation! A couple of weeks ago I was having trouble even printing regular PLA; a thorough clean, replacement PTFE tube, new dual-gear extruder and your profile later, and I have some excellent flexible caterpillar tracks off my Ender3v2 ready for a toy for our toddler. They're probably a cleaner print than I was getting on PLA before I started having problems! I think I've got as much benefit from this channel over the last month as I have from all the other 3D-printing channels on KZbin put together.

[@LostInTech3D]

Glad to help 👍

[@Hal1970]

Just found this channel, man I can't thank you enough for adding some science to this mad 3D printing world...lots of channels making statements with no science backing them, well done and keep it up !!!

[@joshuadelisle]

You've literally made my life so much better because of this video. My TPU prints look amazing. Thank you so much for cheat codes. I'll be recommending you on my channel. Cheers J

[@LostInTech3D]

Awesome! Please do! 👍

[@joshuadelisle]

You need to include the 0.6 nozzle in your links. I would have use your affiliate links but all I needed was the nozzle. I thought my prints where good before but now my mind is blown how perfect they are. Just amazing thank you

[@LostInTech3D]

Honestly I'm not sure how the links work, I'm a total noob. Anyway, glad I could help!

[@philb2334]

I'm going to print a case for my phone & tablet so this video couldn't have come at a better time. I like your no nonsense approach

[@ulrichlachmuth4130]

Just found your TPU profiles and thought hey, give it a try ... great work, even the "Standard" gave me the cleanest TPU print I ever managed! Ender3 v2 here, 0.4mm nozzle, 3DJake 95A TPU. No blobs, stringing, no problems at all. Kudos!

[@SETENTIAstudios]

Thanks god KZbin recommended me this. Used your profile on my stock Ender 3 Pro and came out amazing. Thanks a lot for all the effor you put on your TPU research mate, highly appreciated!

[@LostInTech3D]

Glad to be of help 👍

[@UTubeGuyJK]

You’re doing an excellent job. I hope YT gives your channel more exposure

[@LostInTech3D]

I hope so, it's only been about 4/5 months so far so I'm doing okay, onwards and upwards! 👍

[@BigHonkinGoose]

It did. Just found the channel today. Listening while I paint at work!

[@kloakovalimonada]

Deeply underrated channel. A 3D printing myth buster in fact.

[@Robert86314]

A great mixture of informative content, a look into your thought process going from theory to conclusion, and witty British dry humor. Great overall presentation style! The video in itself is great too, and reflects some of my own thoughts on the why's and how's of TPU, and 3D printing in general.

[@3sotErik]

I've spent the last year eating up all the 3dp videos I can. I just discovered your channel & I'm loving your vids. Thank you for them. 👍

[@j_117]

Just got an Ender 3 and into 3d printing in general, and replacing that extruder with a direct was a godsend. Blasted bowden tubes, I'll take some wavy textures over a notorious fail point tyvm

[@Doughy_in_the_Middle]

I've been using those little butane torches for months now. Love them. Sure, when you buy one, you feel like people are saying, "Another pothead!" at checkout, but for both TPU and even moreso the cotton candy that PETG produces, they're great. Plus: most of them can be refilled so you can just buy a refill bottle at the local hardware store.

[@truegret7778]

Excellent tips and discovery! I just finished printing (tried) a TriLoop propeller (for a quad), with a 0.2mm nozzle, and it came out like snot (and too much stringing and gaps). The model is obviously too thin. I noticed when I tried to make certain it would flow, I set the feed to 4.0mm/sec, stopped, and the filament continued squirting out for a few seconds - so definitely pressure build-up. I'll pay closer attention with my newly gained knowledge from your video. Gotta say, I wasn't a fan of the chapter graphics, at first. BUT, they grew on me as the video rolled on. I like it and adds production value, in my never to be humbled opinion.

[@CrustyBoot]

Thinking about pressure at the nozzle has completely changed how I think about and approach problem solving with my prints. Thank you!

[@Liberty4Ever]

I have a small business and sell TPU products that I designed. It took months of fiddling before the results were suitable for a products and two years later, I'm still learning the dark art of TPU printing. I recently upgraded to a Neptune 4 Pro, not for the speed because TPU has a low upper speed limit, but for better print quality, better cooling on the non-TPU parts and for the awesome Klipper/Fluidd interface. The reverse Bowden tube 3D printers such as the Anycubic Kobra 2 weren't contenders for my new printer because I print so much TPU. I feed all filaments from a reel holder two feet above the printer, straight down into the direct drive extruder. I haven't fully tested the long melt zone on the Neptune 4 Pro yet. In theory it could be problematic for TPU. The initial TPU test prints were OK and hopefully I'll be able to get better print quality after more dark art tweaking of TPU print settings. Chaos is what killed the 0.8 mm nozzle TPU experiments. It's the same phenomenon as closing the spigot. For most of the changing flow rate, there is a stream of water that gets smaller with decreased flow. That's obvious and intuitive. Just before the tap is completely closed, you'll no longer have a very small linear flow. You get drips. Initially the drips are regular but continuing to decrease the flow will result in sporadic non-regular drips. Drip. Drip drip. Drip. Drip drip drip.

[@jw200]

How is the business going? You ship to your country only or anywhere? How you promoted/ advertised your first business days?

[@Liberty4Ever]

@@jw200 - So, basically, how to start an online 3D printing business? 😛 I've neglected marketing so the business could be doing much better. I'm an engineer. I design new products which the competition steals (not developing a different competing product but blatantly ripping off the design in every detail and then plasters their name on the side in a logo that is as large as they can fit onto the product) and then does a much better job of marketing, selling the product at a higher price, so I'm basically doing free engineering for them. My response is engineering new products for them to steal. Yeah, not too bright. I'm an electrical engineer so the next product will have electronics that might be more of an impediment for their thievery, but I'm currently wrapping up the development of a 3D printed product in a completely different market. Of course, that will need more marketing because my company has no brand recognition and established customer base and good will in that new market. We ship anywhere but First Class Mail International has become completely unusable as well as too expensive. Customers don't want to wait 45 days to receive their products, and lately half of the shipments are either lost, stolen or returned. Our products are inexpensive and customers naturally don't want to spend more on shipping than they did on the products, so shipping by a reliable non-government carrier such as FedEx or UPS isn't an option. When our website is updated, all international shipping options will be removed. I started the company in 2006 making products with a CNC laser and CNC machining tools. Marketing was difficult, doubly so because I'm an engineer and hate marketing. I advertised on an online forum where I was an active member and now help moderate. I hate spammy weasel stuff so I kept my private and business persona's separate because I didn't want good will generated by my helpful technical answers to questions and site moderation to convince people to buy my products. I don't want the perception that I'm using the forum to scam free advertising. I tried Google AdWords advertising and couldn't tell that did much good. If I was serious, I'd advertise on Facebook, Instagram, etc., but I hate Facebook and try to pretend it doesn't exist. Probably the very best advertising for our website was videos our customers made, completely unsolicited by us. They liked the products and made a KZbin video to share their enthusiasm. It's difficult to beat the social media broadcast version of word-of-mouth advertising, even though they'd often do an unboxing style video and rather than make a video of them reading the instructions, they'd rush straight to installing the product with all that can go wrong. My hope was that search engines would allow customers to search for something they wanted to buy and be immediately connected to small companies selling the product. That was happening in the early days of search engines, but that mostly stopped. People look on Amazon and eBay and sometimes Etsy or Walmart's online site. We had an 8X increase in sales when listing products on Amazon but their bot kicked us off for violating their product guidelines even though we didn't. Not even close. There's no person for a seller to speak to unless generating $1M a month in sales, so there was no way to appeal. I should have relisted new versions of the same products, omitting the word that their ban-bot had misunderstood, but for the last four years I've ignored Amazon as a selling platform... although I still buy most of my stuff from them, including a lot of 3D printer filament. I need to get this small business back on Amazon. I generally need to do a lot better job of marketing, but I hate marketing and would much rather spend my time engineering.

[@__S__435]

I'm getting good results on a 0.4mm E3D Revo nozzle @ 30mm/sec and zero retraction. Geeetech orange TPU, 225 degrees hot end, 60 degrees on the surface, 0.15mm layers. This is with the fancy Capricorn blue PTFE. The kind that's translucent, so maybe 0.1mm wider than the non-translucent blue from the same vendor. Because it acts like a spring (exponentially more than PLA) it's best to keep the speed at a steady state. At one point, I was using 2.5mm retraction, and it jammed but good. I tried messing around with it quite a lot, but found the best solution was to push through some clear PLA. After I did that, no problem.

[@faokie]

If a proper BMG style extruder is more than you want to spend, even some of the cheap aluminum dual-gear knockoff ones are pretty good, as long as they're designed well. It's also pretty much a drop-in replacement on the Ender 3, just switch the gear, screw on the top and set your e-steps. Or at least if Creality didn't cheap out and give you a motor with a too short shaft like they did for me. The key is to have as little open space after the extruder as possible. If the filament is captive from the moment it enters between your gears, there's nowhere for it to jam up. The extruder I got has a wedge with a hole at the right height. It fits between the two gears, and has a mm or less where the filament is out in the open. There's a mod for the stock extruder that creates a similar effect by cutting a piece of PTFE tube and sticking it between the gear and idler. The only potential problem is in the Bowden connector. Mine came with one that blocked the PTFE tube, and had a big open chamber at the threaded end. I replaced the connector with another one that let the tube all the way through, and have had zero problems since then. It was a nightmare to figure out, because the first two test prints I did came out perfect (+/- surface quality and stringing; they were my temp and first retraction towers), but after that I couldn't so much as put down a first layer. I thought it had to be anything other than jamming, and couldn't figure it out until I unscrewed the connector and saw what was going on there. PS: Don't eat your Benchy (@ 16:10)

[@LostInTech3D]

I have a short shaft on the extruder on my recent ender 3 too! I'm not terribly impressed with this. I've actually ordered the creality direct drive kit, and a spare NEMA motor for the extruder too, hopefully with a full size shaft. Plenty of fun times and fun videos ahead 👍

[@timhoover1416]

Love the end comment about looking for upgrades. Quite witty and thanks for the great work. I've been getting into TPU printing and this really helps.

[@sausage5849]

Thanks for the tip on the Pizzas. I'm always buying large from now on 🙂

[@scottiedog1153]

Learnt so much about print TPU from your YT videos - would like to say a big thanks, loaded your profiles, after struggling with lamination issues previously, printing some large air ducts for a Drone using your 0.4 Standard and amazed by the quality and stability. once I get some 0.6 nozzles, will give that a try- Thanks Man

[@LostInTech3D]

Glad to hear it helped! I know a lot of my subscribers are drone enthusiasts so I try to plan a lot of flexible filament based stuff 👍

[@christopherlarime4095]

Really a great video. Thank you for all the hard work so we can sit back and enjoy this sometimes frustrating but rewarding hobby!

[@fnnsjsnnejejdndnxhxjna]

I've gone the other way and slowed my print speed way down, while increasing layer height and line width. Decent print quality at 0.28mm layer height, 0.6mm line width, 12mm/s speed. 2 mm^3/s at 240C, my layer lines and walls fuse together to look as if they're injection moulded, really happy with the quality of the parts. The only thing I can't get quite right is retraction, still get a fair bit of stringing, but it's good enough for me. Overture TPU off amazon is the only stuff I've printed so far, but after half a day of fiddling with settings (following your first TPU video), I'm really impressed that my ender can print TPU so well

[@LostInTech3D]

I will try overture! I've been very impressed with their petg

[@fnnsjsnnejejdndnxhxjna]

@@LostInTech3D Good to hear! I might have to check out their PETG as well. They had a 20-25% off sale for prime day for most of their filaments, that's where I picked up this TPU I've also fixed my stringing, turns out I had my flow % set way too high from trying to fix issues early on in calibration, bringing it down to 105% fixed the stringing and walls are still sticking together well. Got my print speed up to 18mm/s before the TPU kinks in the extruder, got a dual-gear model with hopefully better tolerances coming soon

[@BrainDeadEngineering]

Great stuff ! .500 extrude jet works here..speed and flow, heat is the 3 critical settings! Higher heat expands the filament in melt chamber and helps push it out. I have printed a speeds of 50 !

[@LostInTech3D]

yes 100% agree, 50mm/s is pretty good! 👍

[@SWREngineering]

I can give you a cheat code for TPU with 0.8 nozzles... on an Ender 6, after playing with your values a bit. Should work on others. That is, line widths are all 0.74, except initial layer, which is 0.98. 0.32mm layers, initial layer is 0.28. Speeds are 8 to 10mm/s for initial layers, ramps up to 35mm/s over the course of 6 layers. Inner wall speed is 32mm/s. Travel speeds 150. Initial layer flow is 92 (I run PLA-tight squish on the first layer and can't be bothered to alter it between prints. It's just to stop the extruder clicking on the first layer). Flow is 96%, with 94% for inner walls and skirt/brim. Temps are 250-260, bed 45-60 depending on if it is 97A or 58D I print with. On small features, the speed drops and the quality goes out the window, and unless you tweak acc/ jerk to fix that, all you can do is increase the flow to stop the dripping... I print a funnel that has a Ø12mm spout, and then we see 12 mm/s and blobs.. I change the code at this point to give me 30% higher flow, and the issue is almost gone. Work in progress.. :)

[@TechieSewing]

Massive work! Never seen this pressure balance explained before. I watched so many videos about TPU I've forgotten what I wanted to print with it ;) I'll definitely apply your advice as soon as I remember.

[@LostInTech3D]

phone case? 😂

[@TechieSewing]

@@LostInTech3D ;) Might have been a longer strap for MI2 to wear it on a leg but MI2 has died since ;) Maybe a phone stand for the bicycle.

[@brokenshoe1775]

Mate keep it up your channel should explode imo brilliantly presented with concise to the point information i love it

[@davidborg7305]

Just finished printing some items with TPU 95 with a .4 and .2 layer, I am getting good results but just takes forever lol, I have a .6 here so I will be using that on my next print, Good video 😎👍.

[@jmonty]

This dude puts out excellent videos. He should have 100k subscribers by now.

[@LostInTech3D]

I agree. I totally should! 👍

[@AWESEM0]

Printed for the first time with TPU today with my prusa mini, using a 0.8 nozzle and I relied on slicer speed settings and achieved a decent result playing with the temperature. Went from the recommended 240° to 205° .. will test speeds to see if it improves :)

[@dashSlap]

I saw this happen on a print... it was bubbly looking. Thought maybe my filament was 'bad' after a mere week after getting it.. I upped the speed on the fly on my mega S randomly, and suddenly the lines looked smooth! I still get too much stringing though, but working on that. Hence why i'm viewing your videos.

[@3Dhamza]

thank you for your effort and for sharing your results each time I want to print TPU it drives me crazy

[@Fly_High_FPV]

After trying 4 direct drive kits and 14 bowden extruders i settled on EZR as the best for TPU. Ive used it in DD setups. But still prefer bowden for it's simplicity. For example if you run filament past the extruder. It's a 10 second fix on bowden to pop the PTFE tube loose and pull the strand, but on DD it's 20 minutes to disassemble the hotend carriage

[@flosa1995]

Mini Bowden then. I got a bit of ptfe between the extruder and my hotend, can just unscrew the extruder with 3 screws and remove it

[@Fly_High_FPV]

Btw the pocky surface on your blue prints looks like moisture...dry em 👌

[@geoideal728]

I like the tip but I'm able to achieve similar results printing 95 TPU on a Bowden extruder with 0.4 nozzle 30mm/s. My cheat code was printing higher temp between 230-240C.

[@sohailb108]

Great video. Did you remove the profiles from your website, or never uploaded them?

[@ubiratamuniz]

Awesome as usual, good technical info and good humour. We can learn and laugh at the same time... 😊

[@brianswille]

Crap, too late, I got a direct drive. Would have tried that before if I saw this before I got it. 100% agree with the jet flame torch for cleanup. Works great. Especially with the thin stringing. Made cleanup better and faster.

[@carlettoburacco9235]

Learned the lesson years ago in a different context: CNC milling as a beginner. Crappy. Slow down. Crappy. Slow down .........wrong input on the speed and I max it. Perfect. Not always slow is better.

[@Kalvinjj]

Pretty interesting findings on the pressure, I run a direct drive V6 clone and Titan extruder (clone too) and print TPU (99A they say on the datasheet) at the manufacturer's specs of 20mm/s max, and it gives great results, other than the stringing of course. That's a 0.4mm nozzle and layers usually 0.2mm, but really nice results at same settings other than layers 0.08mm for a project that needed the precision on the surface finish. Might try even faster settings for the outers.

[@Fly_High_FPV]

I print TPU on .4 nozzles all day. I also do dry TPU right out ofthe bag. Biggest thing to improve your TPU is to replace your extruder to something like EZR Struder. I do like to use larger nozzles like .8 and 1.0mm for large prints, if they are going to take more than 24hours on the standard .4 nozzle

[@LostInTech3D]

that's an interesting extruder design!

[@Fly_High_FPV]

@@LostInTech3D having tested microswiss, bondtech, creality and dozens of cheap extruders, there's nothing even close to as good for TPU as the EZR...it's completely enclosed filament path gives TPU nowhere to wriggle out of pressure builds on the nozzle... i run a small TPU print farm of 12 printers, but upgrading every machine to EZR has made a huge difference in reliability.

[@hanzofactory]

A good relatively rigid and easy to print with TPU is Priline TPU, which is also on Amazon, where I got it, I can definitely recommend it

[@3d1e00]

Bit confused by a later section, the pressure difference between nozzle size is dealt with via the mass flow calculations I thought? From what I can see lower feed rates will eventually start being small enough to be impacted by the flex in the filament during feeding? It's a complex subject though and very interesting. I haven't touched tpu for over a decade and need to get it working on my k1 max. I imagine a reverse Bowden will be able to go lower but will still hit that flex Vs flow rate issue eventually too.

[@Oidium45]

The same applies to PETG with the 0.6mm nozzle! Thanks!

[@srboromir452]

I've been wanting to set up my old monoprice mini select v2.1 for tpu with it's direct drive extruder

[@sohousama]

"It's never moisture." I understood that reference!

[@JZvanloggerenberg]

I cant acess the profiles mate. Thanx for the lesson.

[@johnpekkala6941]

Ok then I know my V2 can handle TPU. I was convinced u need direct drive to be able to print with this material. Appearently with correct settings it works on a bowden machine as well. Nice!

[@LostInTech3D]

Yeah so long as it's 95A tpu, it's fine on Bowden! 👍

[@davidborg7305]

I found that too with printing the infill that I had to drop the speed right down and just infill patterns that were more straight, but other than that I am printing at PLA speed.

[@kvngnz958]

Learned a lot about tpu printing. Thanks mate!

[@aeroxapc]

Very nice video! Fun and educational to watch! Keep it up! 🤙🏼

[@solidus784]

I got Esun 95A fairly dialed in now and ive noticed no difference in quality between 100mm/s and 30mm/s (direct Drive)which seems contrary to what most people experience also having a higher travel speed really helps with the stringing which is the biggest issue I have with TPU.

[@EHDESIGNLABS]

If you change your material in cura to TPU, it will have defaults more optimized for it. Also, I run 60mm/s retractions with a lot of success.

[@LostInTech3D]

bowden or dd?

[@EHDESIGNLABS]

@@LostInTech3D Stock ender 3 pro. I'm going to make a video about it soon

[@MrZasen]

The profiles aren't anymore online, please, could you upload them again??

[@airwolf269]

I can print TPU at 70ms on ender 3v2 with beautiful results. It's software and hardware to zero in on printing TPU. And my ender 3v2 is stock.

[@rctrix9063]

Skateboard wheels are the best way to appreciate urethane hardness. Just go to a skate shop and ask to see and feel the different hardness wheels. It's chalk and cheese comparing 87A to 95A. BTW: I print TPU with the Micro Swiss DirectDrive at 50mm/s No stringing or transition artifacts.

[@LostInTech3D]

have you printed any wheels?

[@aleemmohammed7794]

Your video on TPU printing was very helpful. I used the retraction settings and the print speed settings and print came out well. My problem now is the model comes out very rough where the support is on the model. how can I get a smoother print where the model is touching the supports? I’m printing with TPU on a Creality 3D Printer CR-10S Pro V2. The printer is stock/no mods.

[@LostInTech3D]

Got another tpu video in the works, we'll see if it gives you any answers when it comes out 👍

[@aleemmohammed7794]

@@LostInTech3D I hope it's out soon. I'm in a mood to print. I stopped printing for a couple months because the TPU filament kept kinking and I got frustrated. It was my first attempt at using TPU and I didn't know what to do until I saw your video. Any updates to the settings for calibrating the printer with Cura? I'm finding that I have some difficulty finding the settings you have in your other video: How to improve printing TPU on Ender 3 V2 and other Bowden Printers - reduce or remove stringing. I'm using a Cr10s pro v2.

[@Theausomecaleb]

Im literally sitting here printing crazy flexible tpu @ 100MS on a 1mm busted ender 3 stock cura settings, 80 bed and and dual leads

[@StaticM223]

I know you posed this awhile ago but same thing sitting here with no experience with tpu printing 75A at 270mm/s on the k1 max. Everyone makes it seem so difficult when it isnt

[@kevo5093]

Thanks 👍 amazing video! Learned a lot watching it.

[@unherolike]

This mans actually just a British Wizard in a KZbinr coat.

[@LostInTech3D]

Hahahaha

[@nigel5823]

i recommend a 0.5 i had no problem with TPU on my elegoo neptune 2 and 3 and my artillery printer i do not like enders

[@BultiZ]

Its easier to use.. Pi * D² / 4... Saves one step when u allready have diameter.

[@cache4pat]

To avoid personal disasters before commiting squishy filament to my Ender; and wanting to make small text stamps, I have been binge watching videos. I am looking for someone who has prefected going the otherway with flexible filament. ie: down to a 0.2mm nozzle. Have you explored smaller nozzles, with any success. I really want to avoid going to Resin.

[@LostInTech3D]

smaller nozzles don't work with TPU, I'll save you the pain :)

[@cache4pat]

@@LostInTech3D That is what I needed to know. Thx

[@GlenEdwards]

I'm printing at your speeds and still getting terrible bubbly output. It would be great if I could tweek the speed and flow while printing so I don't have to keep re-slicing new g codes to try!

[@LostInTech3D]

You should be able to do that on your printer? Although it's an interesting idea for a test tower isn't it

[@antonkukoba3378]

30mm/s was considered a PLA speed? I always thought that PLA speeds start at 50mm/s

[@Saffron_SV]

Can you please share the TPU Cura Profile of yours's as your link is not working.

[@SeanTaffert]

As always, great video!

[@pieterpretorius1014]

so basically the old worn out nozzle i have on my wanhao duplicator i3 is pretty much perfect for printing tpu. my dad doesn't want my tpu filament anywhere near his Creality machines

[@LostInTech3D]

TPU won't affect a machine, so I dont know why you'd refuse to print it. A worn out nozzle will be fine, I have a theory that worn nozzles don't matter that much anyway. A theory I've yet to prove, mind you.

[@Robert86314]

Why is a 0.3mm line width often recommended for TPU when printing with a 0.4mm nozzle? I've looked, and cannot find any real information on why.

[@stefanguiton]

Great video! Love this research. keep up the great work

[@LostInTech3D]

Thank you - will do! 👍

[@shawn73715]

Just seen this video on youtube. how come the link for the profile dont work now?

[@gavintownsend6125]

how come the wall thickness is smaller than the nozzle size

[@maxrackstraw]

Brilliant video, helps so much

[@kamiegarczynski8426]

You're printer profile link doesn't work, is there another one I can try?

[@thiagobaldwin2700]

The most important piece of information i got from the video is to always get the 12'' pizza

[@CyrusHostetler]

I get an error when trying to import your profile. Can you post your settings in a txt format or screenshot so that we can see them? I saw the standard setting and manually, but I want to know what gives the "higher quality" and "superior Quality"

[@LostInTech3D]

You can open the profiles in notepad and they are readable, but give me a shout if anything doesn't work with that

[@CyrusHostetler]

@@LostInTech3D I tried that with mac's "text editor" and it didnt work. but dreamweaver did. Thanks for the tip

[@emaayan]

Does the 0.6 nozzle still applies with direct drive and bmg? What about layer height?

[@LostInTech3D]

The only thing direct drive really affects is retraction length and performance, generally I don't change anything else. I recommend having a look at "extreme case mode 2" for some interesting insights into line width to height.

[@emaayan]

@@LostInTech3D what about 0.5 nozzle?

[@SebastianRamirezH]

nice video, Always waiting for your advice, however this time that profile did not work for me, I got a horrible printing, it is working better the one I created based in your video of temp and retract tower, why could it be? I am using blue sunlu tpu

[@LostInTech3D]

That is really strange, especially because I have the blue sunlu also. Is there any way you can show me what is happening?

[@SebastianRamirezH]

@@LostInTech3D Hello again, I am the guy from the other video hehe, just want to say that your profile is amazing, my problem was a bad filament, but with a new one and your recommendation from the other video, it is the first time I printed a part in tpu with almost not stringing, it is incredible!

[@MsDiabolik666]

Trying to get the profile but there are not on your site anymore

[@nerdCopter]

+1👍 💪 i tried to comment of the web-page but do not think it sent (or remains hidden/unapproved). We need this scientific approach for strength as well. In the "FPV community" (quadcopter piloting), we print such things as GoPro, Antenna and general "mounts". I've used your profile with success but immediately set infill to 100%. I'd be interested in further alternatives (possible temperature, direction, layer heights) for strength besides the obvious design of objects. Thank you!

[@LostInTech3D]

Gotcha - I'll check out the website see whats going on. Plenty more TPU stuff to come, and I really do mean plenty! 😂

[@kloakovalimonada]

The settings are 404 on your website. Any chance of re-sharing?

[@octimus2000]

I print TPU perfectly fine on a 0.8 nozzle at 15 mm/s, haven't dared to enable retractions yet

[@LostInTech3D]

There's nothing to fear with retraction! 👍

[@jujucattys156]

did u up date nozle size in slicer as well

[@LostInTech3D]

Yes. How you do it depends on the printer profiles in cura.

[@conantur9897]

Why are you using 0.3 mm line thickness with a 0.4 mm nozzle for your profiles?

[@LostInTech3D]

I'm in the middle of a DD upgrade so I hope I have the right answer here, but the idea with a slightly narrower line width is to reduce pressure on the nozzle. If you take a look at my vid on "flow math" then you'll see the calculation of flow rate is width x height, reducing either will reduce the pressure for the same speed. Does that sorta make sense?

[@conantur9897]

@@LostInTech3D yes, that makes sense. It seems you opted for a smaller line width so you could increase the speed more to get that shiny finish.

[@bearito7887]

This is great. Thank you.

[@LostInTech3D]

Another episode in the works, look out for it :)

[@joblessalex]

I wish someone would make a hard tpu. Stuff sticks to literally any bed. Like anything. It actually permanently bonds to build tak.

[@LostInTech3D]

Try PETG 🤣

[@joblessalex]

@@LostInTech3D Still not as good. I've printed tpu on pretty much anything I can find. Think it even printed directly into sandpaper just fine once. Could make a whole series on trying to find something tpu WON'T print on.....

[@LostInTech3D]

you're not wrong.

[@thespencerowen]

Link is broken

[@ZaxMan3D]

Is there a reason yuu print tpu with bed heating on? I'm printing with out and it sticks very good

[@LostInTech3D]

honestly mostly just out of habit and default settings, you generally are OK without it

[@SebastianRamirezH]

Hello. Could I print with your profiles using a 0.3mm nozzle? What do you suggest to change?

[@LostInTech3D]

Tpu does not work well with smaller nozzles, I have tried it, it is really bad! But you only need to change layer height, line width.

[@SebastianRamirezH]

@@LostInTech3D @Lost In Tech ahh ok. Because since you appeared in my life I love TPU with my ender 5. And I moved from pla to tpu to print figures for my son and even me, the are more resistant to child hands and rude games. I printed a 10cm hulk with your high quality profile and I liked it, the problem was to post-processing the layers, but I handle it, then I wanted to print 1 cm head with your superior quality profile with 0.1 height, but I want to check how would it be with 0.08 height.

[@LostInTech3D]

You can do 0.08 layer height just fine on a 0.4 nozzle. Try it.

[@THEDANRMUSIC]

What max volumetric speed do you use?

[@LostInTech3D]

Good question, not really fleshed an answer out to that question, something I want to really test in a future video!

[@THEDANRMUSIC]

@@LostInTech3D I have some Prusa MK3S. A few years ago i did one or two prints with TPU 95A so I didn't gain much knowledge about printing flexible filament, but a year ago i had the need to start printing flexible filament. This last year i spent about 25kg of flexible filament. I needed a filament that had good friction (I needed to make rubber feet), and 95A wasn't enough, so what I've been using is 82A or 30D. The first thing i noticed was that if i dried the filament and made a print and left the filament in the open air and went to print a piece again 5 hours later the difference was huge, so as i was going to need to print a lot of pieces I had to keep the filament always dry so i bought a filament dryer. I recently noticed that if I dry the filament above 50 degrees Celsius, the filament slightly increases in thickness, which makes it difficult to pass the heatbreak, I started using 40. Another problem i found was the difficulty I had in loading a filament, this would be worse during printing. I did several tightening tests on the drive gear (turned the screw a quarter turn) to find the best tightening. Although the bondtech drive gear has been working fine with the petg for a few years now I noticed it had some wear, I bought a new drive gear and the extrusion has improved. Another thing that improved extrusion was the titanium heatbreak and low friction nozzles. I tried several settings until i found the best one for me, I use 8 max volumetric speed. But sometimes I have underextrusion (about 3 on 3 or 5 on 5 spools), either in the middle of a spool or when I put in a new spool. It is often because the drive gear is dirty, or I have to do a cold pull because the inside of the nozzle gets gooey, sometimes to solve the problem I have to change the nozzle. But despite doing the cleaning and changing the parts, I can't print again as I was printing before the problem, I have to modify the gcode (speed, temperature, etc). And then spools appear that the results are better. In short, printing flexible filament requires a lot of maintenance and although I have no way of proving it I feel that there are differences in composition/hardness from one spool to another, even if they are the same brand and color. I have printers that spent 600kg of Petg of the same brand and the same color without having to change the gcode or have major maintenance. With flexible filament this does not happen.

[@pilimorgann]

Suscribed! Thanks for your help Can you send me the profile for Ender 3 v2 Neo? I can't download it form your page thanks

[@LostInTech3D]

I never had a neo, are you talking about the plain E3V2? TBH the neo should work just fine on standard TPU settings or PLA but with retraction increased a bit and speed as in the video.

[@isabelramosnuche7623]

@@LostInTech3D yes can you send me the profile for the plain E3V2?

[@pilimorgann]

@@LostInTech3D yes can you send me the profile for the plain E3V2?

[@mereics3413]

You are incredibile! Thank you!

[@oldmancolin]

Thanks!

[@LostInTech3D]

Thank you! 🙂