You’re WRONG about SUPER STEEL

Is "super steel" worth the extra cost? How does cpm-m4 work at 65hrc? Why some people are wrong on the whole super steel subject...I make a knife in cpm-m4 and find out.
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[@malvinmalvin]

I'm only two minutes in, but my takeaway from this video is gonna be the workbench on wheels. It's brilliant. The thought has just never crossed my mind. I've just moved so while I'm moving tools and equipment into the garage, I'm gonna make one.

[@twatmunro]

I don't have any space to put such a workbench but I immediately wanted one. Such an elegant solution.

[@strangelyfamiliar1729]

My Dad is religious about having wheels (castors) on pretty much everything in the shop and whatever he's using for storage. It's so convenient and makes things a lot simpler at times.

[@operator8014]

Yeah, if you were moving shops, just wheel it out the door onto a trailer, haul it to the new place, and unload it. Done.

[@michaelabraham9177]

You just made me remember I got 6 spare wheels. Great for my welders

[@robertmceuen3630]

Every machine in my shop is on casters. Its great.

[@ronstoner1823]

The thing you said about hanging a warped knife for 3 years cracked me up! It reminded me of a story my dad told me when I was a kid. He said the matadors used swords made from Toledo steel, and if they hit a bone and bent the tip the matador could hang the sword tip down and it would straiten the bend. I don't have any idea if it's true or not.

[@e.t.preppin7084]

That’s so funny. Obviously steel won’t straighten out merely from gravity however it is amazing how powerful words are especially when it’s our parents words.

[@garethbaus5471]

Lol, if that worked I would be seriously concerned about the quality of Toledo steel.

[@the_inquisitive_inquisitor]

If gravity can _straighten_ a bend, then gravity can *make* a bend. You wouldn't be ably to hold the sword out straight without it flopping over -- if that story were true.

[@nilsschenkel7149]

Wondering if that originated in some kind of hazing joke amongst matadors, like tell the new guy these blades can straighten themselves and bend it when he´s not looking.

[@oldkingcrow777]

​@@nilsschenkel7149 exactly like going to home depot for cement softener or blinker fluid lmao

[@Dont_Poke_The_Bear]

I'm convinced that M4, k390 and magnacut are all the steels we ever really need for carry knives these days. We live in great times as steel nerds.

[@greekveteran2715]

I'd take Vanadis 4 Extra for my mid size outdoors fixed blade knives and Elmax for my folders. Check the most boxes for me, even though it's the heat treatment and the bevels and edge geometries, that are far more important for me. I just mentioned what works better for me, after trying almost all the well known steels. If I didn't have the option of a Super steel, I would be perfectly fine, with a handforged Ballbearing steel on my fixed blades. Checks more boxes than them all. Properly done, easily the best steel for mid size outdoors knives.

[@mikafoxx2717]

Cru-wear is also an excellent steel.

[@retardno002]

Big blades: V4E, 3V, CruWear; Medium blades: Magnacut, Elmax, M4; Small blades: K390, M398, Magnacut. Honorable (budget) mentions: 14C28N, N690, 154CM, D2

[@retardno002]

​@@mikafoxx2717totally, CruWear is basically M4 but with slightly lower edge retention but a lot more toughness. It's a good trade-off for many.

[@crispincoleman]

Your portable workstation on wheels is an awesome idea. I need to make one of those. Good informative video as always.

[@gelanghaarteweile3048]

Just my thoughts! :D

[@XBullitt16X]

yeeeah i thought that was neat, too

[@Hungrybird474]

That’s a nice looking blade dude. Good job man. When they turn out like that, you can call yourself a professional knife maker. You do the heat treating everything yourself. Respect

[@OUTDOORS55]

Thank you! I appreciate the kind words 🙏

[@Freeknickers24]

No,😊 if you sell one you are a professional.

[@adriaandoelman2577]

@@Freeknickers24 no, a person engaged or qualified in a profession is called a professional.

[@JK-wl6dx]

@@adriaandoelman2577 Yes, engaged in a profession, ie making money from it by selling products or services. This is all a bit pedantic though, and I think we all agree that the knife looks great.

[@CAVEDATA]

Havent found a video on this subject as compressive and transparent as this one. What a journey you are on.

[@Ben-uf3dc]

I'm so lucky the KZbin algorithm blessed me with your content.. You're awesome ❤

[@robinward3003]

I'm a retired tool maker, and I made my moose skinner, and camp knife using 01 tool steel, ht to 60rc, and my knightly dagger and machete are made from a 1960s 10ft saw blade from a paper mill. It has a few points less carbon than 01, and I heat blued the back of the machete to temper it back to about 50rc. That blade of yours would give mine a run for it's money, but I wonder how it would handle moose, or grizzly hair, although, it handled everything you threw at it like a champ. That stabbing out a chip made shivers run up my spine, and was amazed that the tip still remained. Every factory made knife I've ever owned needed to be sharpened, every time I use it, and don't hold an edge any better than barbed wire. Your blade is the first I've seen in a long time, that you could call a masterpiece. Thanks for sharing.

[@nathenwallis5664]

Great video as always! There's a reason why blade sports competitors use steels like M4, and not 420hc, n690co etc. Do you make commissioned knives?, I'd love to have a custom made by you

[@toddcarr.]

Always love the vids and the information you provide. With any steel the proper heat treatment process brings out the best that steel has to offer. Supersteels are considered super for a reason whether it be those that focus on toughness, edge retention, stainless etc.. and a few that balance these qualities amazingly well and provide high marks in all categories. Such a great time to be into knives with all the options we have available and at different price points as well. Thanks for the great vid and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable

[@greekveteran2715]

I have ballbearing steel knives, that have very similar performance, with many super steels. Actually, the common user, will never know that it wasn''t a super steel used, because that's how good that steel properly made performs. Makes my CPM 3V blades look inferior. (Better edge retention, better edge stability, easier to sharpen, sharper edge) Only steel I like more, (for medium size fixed blades on outdoor knives) is the Vanadis 4 Extra, which I like more than CPM Cruwear.

[@crashdsnowman1]

👍👍 Great content even if some choose not to learn from it. I worked as an engineer for 24 years and still appreciate those who spend their time trying to help others. I spent 14 years on a gun forum trying to teach people how to build better rifles, reload and just choose higher performance parts instead of buying a name. In most cases it was a complete waste of time but, please continue some of us are interested in learning the ways of others. I looked for months trying to find a Magnacut with heatreat in that 63-64 range that Larrin recommends with no luck. It looks like I'll have to make some in AELb, 3V, cru-wear and MC then send them out for proper heat treat to see what they will really do.

[@ryanbeard1119]

Could I get a link to your gun form so I can read the content?

[@trbogenschutz8774]

Damn 64 hrc and no chipping. Would love to see how the work on chef knives and see how far they'll go before chipping and breaking. Im nodda fan of stainless but now I'm contemplating buying some aluminum plates.. Keep up the good work. I always look forward to your videos, you rock!

[@OUTDOORS55]

65😬

[@WARnTEA]

I wonder how hard it is to get a S grind on a supersteel. I could see it being a great kitchen knife if you’ve got a guy with the skills and equipment to sharpen it.

[@thorwaldjohanson2526]

​@@WARnTEAfor a kitchen knife stainless is quite important, so besides aebl/14c28n, magnacut is the only super steel that would make sense. A few makers make kitchen knives from it.

[@mikafoxx2717]

those first two aren't supersteels, just very good ones. The best non-powder steels I think.@@thorwaldjohanson2526

[@justinw1765]

@@WARnTEA Speaking of kitchen knives; have you seen Rahven's HIC/elastic ceramic knives? The channel Cedra and Ada gear did a test on a prototype made out of this material and cut through sisal rope 2350 times (!!!!) before it dulled the knife enough that it didn't easily cut through a sheet of paper. Regular steel would go between 50 to 200 times before doing similar. Super steels like 300 to 500 times or so. Anyways, it's a type of elastic/flexible ceramic that has the best of both worlds-ceramics very, very high hardness but without the extreme brittleness. You can actually significantly flex these knives without breaking them. They are also super light weight and obviously non oxidizing/rusting. And unlike with the traditional ceramic knives, you can actually sharpen them fairly easily with diamond. I was surprised by how relatively inexpensive they were as well. I expected them to charge hundreds of dollars for these knives, but you can get a small pairing knife for around $19 US, and their largest knife around $70 US dollars (I'm quickly guesstimating conversion from CHF to USD). The only downside is that the shipping is expensive (they are located in Switzerland). But they have free shipping if you spend 100 CHF and over. (For me, the shipping would have been around $43 US, so I just bought as close to 100 CHF as I could). I wonder if they will ever transition over to other style of knives? They are probably still have significantly less toughness than most steels, but it might be interesting to see a San Mai version-have the core HIC and the 2 outer reinforcing sides, steel. Either way, sounds like it is amazing for at least kitchen knives now (I'm looking forward to receiving the ones I ordered).

[@ShootingUtah]

M4 is one of my favorite steels. I have a big old Benchmade I think contego in cpm M4 and it's super nice. I feel like I've lucked out on most of my knives with heat treatment except for one in s35vn which seems freaking soft! I also have noticed a big difference in s30v in 2 different Spyderco knives. One is awesome and will take a hair whittling sharpening and hold it while the other just doesn't want to get as sharp ever and seems to need attention more often.

[@Sk0lzky]

I think knifesteelnerds explained the likely reason for this in a collab with another creator if you're interested. Something with carbide structure iirc

[@hrvstmn31]

Can vouch on the s30v, I have a manix 2 and xl and the xl steel has to be sharpened more often.

[@GerstBladeworks]

Great video, as always brother. I started making knives because of you and almost* all of my knowledge has came from you. You're a great teacher as well man, you should think about doing an in depth knife making course locally as well as online, I think it would really take off, especially now that more folks are getting back into bushcraft and bushcrafting knives/gear. I really want your heat treat protocol for that M4 man, I was just talking to a buddy about M4 two days ago and wether or not I should use that or CPM-3V. I love it man ! Have a great day brother!

[@miker5502]

Another excellent explanation of knives and steel..and how many elements of knife making have to come together in order to make a great knife. The knife you made Alex seems to tick all the boxes…love how the handle looks as well. Impressive! MikeR.

[@vyor8837]

I... Didn't really hear any explanations about why those steels are worth it. Like, what are the *reasons* the steel is "better"? Why does it retain it's edge better? Is it harder? Why isn't it brittle if so?

[@dcsensui]

Quite impressive. And the shape of the blade is, in my opinion, ideal for turning game into meat. It's the size and shape I use for gutting and skinning. There's a second folding knife that's smaller for gutting as well. Thanks for the info!

[@nickjanczak9665]

I really like how you are always asking questions and questioning your methodology.

[@variabl3]

Been everydaying a Spyderco Para 3 in Maxamet for a year and several months. It's just now needing to be stropped. My first experience with super steel has been exemplary.

[@xenophilie]

I appreciate the light dry humor on this channel. Glad I'm not the only one who hangs frustrating projects on the wall for a few years.

[@markanderson1009]

Ur the dude ! 65 is my hope in what little I do . But I've been using knives since I was 8 or 9.

[@Paulsinke]

so glad you are back making videos. My knives are much happier when I'm well informed about steels

[@JohnSmith-gs4lw]

Might want to think about making some bolt on scales for all your test blades. Especially if all your blades are the same pattern. Even aluminum scales would be easier on your hand than the bare tang and you can’t break aluminum, but micarta would probably hold up as well.

[@TheScrawnyLumberjack]

My personal EDC is made from CPM 10V at 65 HRC, full height convex, 18dps secondary, around .01 BTE, and it can whittle antler with no issues.

[@robertbarnum7541]

As you know, it's for me it's great to find some one who takes these great steels to 65 hrc and has gotten comfortable there. Thanks TSL.

[@hachi666roku]

Loved this video, because it tempts me to go try some superman vs winter soldier steel, but I have 2 huge deterrents: 1. If I lose a cruwear or maxamet knife I will sink into a deep cripling depression of which I will be on the 5 O’ clock news 2. Some one grabs it real quick to do something stupid like pry and it snaps in half, which is the same result, the 5 O’ clock news, but now I’ve committed manslaughter

[@honorb4glory606]

It's pretty simple. The more resistant a knife is to sharpening, the more resistant it is to dulling. If you want a light-duty knife, that you can keep extremely sharp, you want an easier sharpening steel. If you want a knife that will stay reasonably sharp for a long time, you want a harder sharpening steel.

[@Blue-cq2hl]

The funny thing about plate quenching like that is that it's like a janky fixture lol. You need a lot of pressure that's evenly distributed and hard to do if you don't have a good setup. I work with a lot of these materials

[@robertmceuen3630]

I've seen hundreds of knives, and that knife is one of the finest...

[@frostys_bushcraft]

Recently I got a little EDC knife with 4" Magnacut blade @ 65RC and tested it the way I usually do... processing game. If you ever processed a boar you know how hard they are on knives and I got two of them the other night. Went trough both of them, bone and everything (chest and pelvis) and absolutely no damage to the edge. Some stropping and was back to shaving. Since the knife was small and I couldn't get a good grip and a lever I had to baton trough the pelvis bones. 3V is usually my steel of choice but it doesn't even compare.

[@OUTDOORS55]

I haven't worked with magnacut yet but will at some point. I think they have the heat treat figured out now as it seems some makers we're having issues with it at first. But again I believe that is in the past. Glad to hear some feedback on it under real world use👍

[@jamesvanminnen2676]

Damn! Now I REALLY want an M4 scandi-grind fixie as my go-to bushcraft knife!!! Wow that really is incredible performance. And another great video, thank you.

[@cornpop7805]

I heard you say there are better steels out now, but that depends on what you're prioritizing. I had never previously considered CPM-M4 as a material I'd like in a knife until watching this video and researching CPM-M4. M4 looks like it's the absolute best knive steel in terms of having both edge retention and toughness. I don't see anything else that even rivals M4 if you prioritize both those attributes. So, its corrosion resistance is low, and its ease of sharpening is low (on paper). You said that it wasn't particularly tough to sharpen, and with edge retention like that, you'd sharpen less anyway. I personally don't care all that much about corrosion resistance, at least not when I could have a tough knife with incredible edge retention. I imagine there are coatings to help with corrosion resistance. I'm very excited about the CPM-M4. Thank you so much for showcasing it for us!

[@joerausch5756]

Idk why but that warping joke had me in stitches!

[@brightargyle8950]

I've wanted to start messing around with some of these higher grade steels, I will need to send the blades out for heat treating but that's just one less headache for me, I certainly cannot afford the setup here. I like the idea of a truly durable blade. Love the handle by the way!

[@jamesbarisitz4794]

Super steels rock! Love Hitachi super blue for the kitchen, but Spyderco is one of the reliable heat treaters of new and exotic steels. I'll try new steels after some reviews, then get a Spyderco model in that type. Excellent video. Try a Scandi edge on the next one. ✌

[@zmuzzy101]

I think it was a scandi grind?

[@HalfInsaneOutdoorGuy]

I would kill for one of his super steel knives.

[@ShelleyRaskin]

Im right there with you, I just graduated from O1 to AEB-L due to a new kiln, have just put my first handle on and am hand sanding that at the moment, keen to see how it works out, but I must say its a lot harder to work the soft steel, my blades stayed straight but I clamped them, might try your vice method, I had actually considered that before I saw your video but was worried about dropping them on the floor as I put them in the vice...

[@thehopperhopes6365]

If you are using AEB-L use Roman Landes heat treat recipe . Cliff Stamps website used to have the recipe but since he passed away the website is no more. It may still be about on one of the knife forums somewhere .

[@lymphy12]

Good steel + master craftsman = solid blade. If you spend $1k+ on a knife that preforms like a gas station knife do you gain the right to stab the maker?

[@wasylbakowsky5199]

Big fan of the thick handle, always a fan of Scandi blades...

[@maxlvledc]

The topic alone got you a sub! Rock on!

[@markanderson8677]

Thanks for all your work to produce informative videos - greatly appreciated!

[@knowwearneresquare3177]

Time tested,Tried and true, trial and error method to figure out the cooling plate set up and method ,good stuff mate ,well done ,saved other lots of time ,thank you :)

[@GOxHAM]

LMFAO at that man in steel meme. So freaking good!

[@sbvera13]

So glad you're back making videos! I missed your snarky expertise :)

[@jaredfisher1618]

I am 37 and my father has made knives as long as I can remember. I have seen a lot of nice knives but have not wanted any as much as I want that knife... but with a nice brass guard(front quillon only) Very nice job. How Do I Make One?

[@jacobbeaupre3940]

Does clips of you cutting down a sampling with pushcuts is WILDDDD, thats geometry and super steel for you brotha

[@jean-baptistedemets3477]

Now my question is : what is more important : steel or heat treatment ? Would you rather have a super steel not so well heat treated or a regular steel with a great heat treatment ?

[@OUTDOORS55]

1084 regular steel with a solid heat treatment for sure will beat anything with a bad one.

[@johnjude2685]

I'm only a hobbyist and noticed that problem laying the blank down first as the first problem you have shown, Agree Wow❤ As for the blade. Not for the handle, just a maddle of choice but well made . Can I use cheap oils for the quenching is the major question, Sir I'm subscribed now Thanks you got my attention now 😂 Thanks

[@MrDerus01]

Very interesting findings, and it make so much sense. One day when I am lucky enough to make my own knives one day I will remember your wise words and experiments. Thank you

[@docgonzo3517]

Again appreciate the honesty and balanced approach in your videos vs the usual over simplified all hype haters vs steel type marketing koolaid fans single value is only thing that matters crowd. It is made worse by not only do folks compare crap heat treats, but blame the steel for their sharpening ability and wrong choice of gear like using soft bond al oxide stones on high carbide super steels. I also find most steels tend to lose that razor edge in similar amount of time and seem similar in say kitchen use when it is touched up a lot and not seeing hard work much, but on a work knife cutting likes of 11mm static rope, wood, 4mm leather, cardboard etc I find modern super steels are still cutting and work sharp long after the likes of 12c27 and aebl have become completely useless

[@rwstubbz]

Well done, I've been watching your videos for a long time and you're getting way more educated

[@eelcj1]

You can get Japanese kitchen knives made with these super steel like hep40, zdp 189, or cowry-x quite easily hardened from Rc 65 to 67. They are great. Not brittle, tough and holds an edge for months with daily kitchen use. They are not particularly tough to sharpen either due to their thin edges. They are very good and I would say better than the traditional hitachi blue or white label carbon steel. Whether they are worth the extra price is really in the eye of the owner. Many would say $1000 for a chef knife is just crazy but some won’t think twice.

[@chriskp]

Isn’t the trouble with supersteels that they can be more difficult to sharpen where 420hc can be sharpened with just a stone you pick up off the ground or some river clay rubbed into the cut face of a log?

[@onlinekicker]

This was a lot of fun, and informative. Love seeing steel really put to the test! Hell, it even survived your montage hahaha! Keep it up!

[@carrops]

1:34 i love this

[@johnhosky2931]

Amazing vid. Love the knife. Love the editing. We all know as soon as someone finds out a well hardened super steel outperforms everything it gets marketed to hell. Sell these!!!! 😁

[@edcgearpocketknife]

Trying to sharpen super steel is a pain in the ass. Especially for an edc knife. Most guys sell there knives with super steel before they need to re sharpen them. Also the cost is crazy. You can sharpen a knife anywhere even in the woods. All knives with proper care and oil the blade they won’t rust. If companies follows bucks heat treat on 440 and kept price down would be better than having super steels.

[@OUTDOORS55]

With diamonds they aren't much different. All personal preference 👍

[@abidhajher7076]

I am here for some advice. I heat treated my knife, tempered it, hand sanded and polished the blade to a mirror finish. And realise I didn't drill no fooken pin holes for the handle. It's a file knife and the serrations are still there... Can I just epoxy wood to it? What would you do in this situation? Btw your videos helped me get a super sharp and durable edge on this knife. Bloody epic.

[@HanlonRazor]

My hunting knife is 4V (Bark River CDPH). If you want a real test of how super steels perform, use them on game. The 4V can go through multiple animals and not need a touch up.

[@cvalswockeh2npc1pya82]

Hey Man I do like your videos a lot. They make me going in the workshop and try doing some hot knifes just like yours. Thanks for inspiration and a happy new Year. May 2024 be the year of finding the the wholy grail of the supersteel that fits all.

[@OUTDOORS55]

Thanks for watching! Happy new year's to you as well👊

[@tonymengela3575]

putting guid pins in the 4 corners helps greatly

[@MatthewKTracy]

Dude I love you work bench going to steel that one

[@theun4giv3n]

Impressive knife making. Love the work bench on wheels.

[@goofy7243]

Curious if you make custom blades for sale, because I would love the blade with just a dark ebony handle 🤣

[@hvrtguys]

It's magic steel it never goes dull. Good thing too because it cannot be sharpened by mortals.

[@trulsdirio]

Thing is, my custom is just some 1.2842 at 62 HRC and I spend about ten minutes a month on sharpening. For me there is absolutely no value in spending thrice the money on some super steel. It might even come out to the same time as it takes longer to sharpen when I eventually need to due to the higher wear resistance.

[@holdernewtshesrearin5471]

Love me some M4 on my folding knives. Spyderco seems to do very well with it and my Benchmades perform very well too. I'm sure there's much performance to gain from careful custom construction and heat treat but in my experience these two manufacturers get enough from M4 steel to warrant its cost. I do get where some come from though and feel 154CM or AUS-8A is a better choice for lower end or fixed blade knives that will see heavy use.

[@sweetdrahthaar7951]

Great video. Very informative and great music to boot👍🏻

[@Pablo668]

Nice work with that knife. I like your big workbench thing too.

[@dizzious]

I've been pretty happy with both of my m390 blades. That is to say, I've never sharpened either one of them and they're still sharp somehow.

[@TheLordG0at]

Hoping to get a heat treating oven soon, just wondering what your opinion on the best outdoor/survival knife steel is. We're moving to 100 acres of Forrest so I must make my wife a beautiful knife

[@daledgen]

Just well said. Super steel haters will have a tough time refuting your presentation of facts. Totally agree with hating the heat treatment. Great video. The “shop on wheels” was great too

[@Daniel.Liddicoat]

The only plus I've ever found with "ye olde soft steel" is ease of working the steel. Soft steel goes blunt quicker, but I don't have to use the diamond stones to sharpen it either.

[@poppacooter]

Sir, I started pricing everything out to start making my own custom knives and after much research I’ll never complain about the price of a knife again for sure !!!!!!

[@richardburns3543]

Beautiful knife

[@jameswilson8907]

I had a Benchmade Freek in M4 that was my work knife for years (I'm a mechanic, this knife has seen some shit). Unfortunately it went missing about a month ago and so in the meantime I replaced it with a CRKT Pilar 3 in D2 until I decide on a replacement. I'm honestly blown away at how poorly the D2 performs in comparison.

[@JamesTheAxeThrower]

I’ve been just using mild steel for my knives lately and even that is basically as good as a super steel

[@mattzee6287]

Am looking for one. To own, not sell, (but I would pass it down) Blade 6.5" 10.5" overall. Can make own handles. No serrations needed. Will be adding brass or nickel at both ends of handle, so no glass breaker needed How much?

[@Apex_grind562]

Sick! And I agree. Magnecut, m4, cruwear etc

[@ryanblystone5153]

Thank you

[@gregred78]

My 2 favorite steels are #1 M390, #2 D2 those are the ones I've had the best luck with. If M390 wasn't so expensive I'd have more knives with it.

[@deadguy237]

Also I must say with your sanding process try and find yourself some diamond abrasive sanding belts. You're not going to be cheap but they're going to last a really long time just like putting on a new belt

[@edanpino-xt1ph]

Still an O1 steel simp. Super steels definitely have their place and I love them, but there’s something about a nicely patinated tool steel blade that has an unspoken and utilitarian beauty

[@Burn_pits]

I dunno because at a certain point sharp is sharp. I think this another one of those things where people get far too caught up in the latest and greatest things. I did quite a few years of developments in the Middle East. I can say I never looked at my benchmade and said man I wish this was a fancy high dollar steel because it can’t do what I want. Edge retention and durability was above reproach for cutting through zip cuffs, carpet type material, tape, clothing, boots, gear, splicing, scuba diving, saltwater, fishing line and even some wire cutting. I had the same three knives for almost 4 years until one got lost on mission and another while diving. I have never met a task that was made for a knife they couldn’t do.

[@rognavolter]

Impressive thanks for the info

[@timj5031]

I am still not a fan of super steels, but I am also not an Outdoor Guy. I use semi Hard Steel knifes for cooking and keeping them sharp with a Honing Rod which you also hate^^ (one very old Japanese and one traditionallly made German). I guess it just depends on the Purpose which the knife is used to.

[@blackpowderenergy]

i love high end knifes and high end steels they are much better and safer then cheap knifes i gave gerber one last chance for work and a brand new knife lock failed scraping off caulking around a window blade snapped closed on my fingers cut the shit out of i was pissed as hell took that pos 30 dollar gerber knife snaped it right in half with my bare hands and chucked the blood covered mess into the woods any real high quality knife the lock wont randomly fail on you and put you at risk i love my spyderco and cold steel and usa made kershaw knifes never had a issue

[@glenngoins3100]

As always another great video. You're probably going to laugh at me, but my favorite steel is 440 C... It's very easy to sharpen. And takes a razor edge. No it won't hold it as long as yours will. But for my needs is good enough.

[@krypto-noob397]

Huh? Any blue prints on that AWESOME work bench?

[@seththompson4171]

I absolutely love how he took a comment, called the person out as wrong, then just proceeded to crap all over their thoughts with action. Well played sir. Well played.

[@Flyboyminer]

If you hang your knife on a hook in your shop,after 3 years, it will still be warped. Bro I laughed so hard!! Wonderful jokes.

[@willkase-jq1wz]

Great vid man could you do a vid reviewing the spider co resilience?

[@actionjksn]

The makers who say that you shouldn't use super steel, probably tried making a knife from it and had trouble working with it and or failed at doing a good hardening and tempering job on it. It's easier for them to say it's a bad material for knives, than it is for them to say I don't have the ability to properly make a knife out of this material. They are almost always going to say the first one. I personally like knives that have ok edge retention and are super quick and easy to sharpen razor sharp. I have not tried making knives yet but I will definitely try super steel after I do some with the easier stuff. I will make my first knives out of 1095 chrome-moly vandium because I like it. My favorite EDC right now is a dewalt with a drop point blade and spring assist. It is easy to sharpen and at any time I can go across my arm with it and shave it bald, and it cuts paper just like in this video. It does not have edge retention anything like the knife in this video though.

[@iamshredder3587]

Ps: for the plate quench if you pick up a cheap basic carpeneters vice they work great, check em out youll see why and you can mount the plates in them on either side temporary or permanently no problem with screws or bolts through the standard holes in them... strong, light, fast, more surface area and can easy mount one with the plates horizontal (or vertical if you prefer) on the wall right next to your ovens or any sort or workbench or stands or whatever and leave it their permanent. (Either one which is usually plenty or like me have 3 or more in a row right there for multiple Knives and consistently in heat etc) Freeing up that big beautiful beast of a bench vice more for any of the gazillion other jobs they're useful for haha.

[@thefeatheredfrontiersman8135]

I've been casually exploring various budget steels x50, d2, 8cr 14mov and the likes, aus8a

[@aquariumengineer]

every bit of this is fantastic. Solid info, rad shop on wheels, and i laughed a bunch. Thanks!

[@cankeco]

im a 1095 guy, but worry about teh process to work d3 etc... how hard is this to work with; HT TC etc, and for tomahawk, with a green tree bevel?

[@roeberdt-bT.1021]

...maybe instead of epoxy try a piece of leather.?... Not sure if that's what you were talking about, but that part is most definitely one of my go off and cry moments... Thanks for the post in any case, I've got some ideas I need to do and your channel along with some others are helping me keep my interest so I don't just wander off cause I need more tools. More tools for all and love forever.

[@davidfenton3910]

Thanks for sharing. If I might be so forthright to encourage you to show boldness in testing where you are not sure. Your open and honest timidity in tip testing in the pine is admirable but it doesn't inspire confidence in your knives (and I assume this is in part, advertising in a very honest way) So I suggest bold, real world testing. If you find the limits with a break, and show your finding of them then it establishes something about you as a knife maker. (Perhaps: Reform the tip and sell the knife cheap, then improve the heat treat, show it is superior and sell for a full on properly tested price.) Some thoughts: If you stab it into the pine hard and lever it fast, applying lots of force to the tip, you gain even more cred, regardless of if it snaps the tip or not. Be full on real with the super steel, just as you have been when it didn't cost so much to test FULL ON FOR REAL. If it snaps then you needed to know it and showing yourself learning and adjusting accordingly, builds confidence in you and your knives ... but timidity and fear of breaking it, well not so much. Plz don't forget how awesome you are and go for it. Real sharing of honest competent knowledge is getting rarer and rarer. No more joking around with bs vids from now on hey? sincerely david

[@OUTDOORS55]

I dont sell these so..not sure most of this comment is relevant. Thanks for watching

[@thefeatheredfrontiersman8135]

But i think im almost ready to drop more $ on the higher end steels. I was looking at the Spyderco enuff and i think that might be my first.

[@michaelbrown-ne7vo]

i just stick with basic high carbon always works

[@boumex8842]

Ok, you sold me the steel. Who makes cheap folders with it?

[@Healcraft]

yeah they are starting at $200 heheh