You won’t BELIEVE the CLEARANCE the A1 mini can print

[@3Digiprint]

The clearance on this is lower than your Lamborghini. I’d recommend printing this if you’re getting a new printer. It usually is my first print! Designer: 3DMakerNoob Location: printables 116911 Filament: flashforge pla Printer: A1 mini #filament #3dprinter #3dprinted #gadget #tool #3digiprints

[@OrginalTRreis]

we don't have a Lamborghini 😭

[@Benjamin_Reese]

That's a great printables number. 116 911, a mirrored flipped number. With 69 in the middle. Nice.

[@wardrich]

​@@OrginalTRreis Just print one! Unless you wouldn't download a car

[@OrginalTRreis]

@@wardrich Thanks man. (Its going to take me years to just print the half and a replica engine)

[@wardrich]

@@OrginalTRreis I believe in you! haha

[@cheese7781]

“And Clearance’s parents had a real good marriage”

[@itsmrlonewolf]

8 mil

[@tylerkinley268]

Hey man that's what it takes to go to Cranbrook.

[@josefsteiner9401]

@@tylerkinley268 yo i heard cranbrook is a private school lol

[@tylerkinley268]

@@josefsteiner9401 man cheddar bob coulda ran that place...

[@josefsteiner9401]

@@tylerkinley268 no he couldn't no guns at school 😂

[@mattmansarizona8868]

Rumor has it, the .20 still hasn't landed yet.

[@AnomalousVixel]

I knew I saw that thing fly off! It happened so quick I wasn't even sure, but I definitely saw the .20 flick off into the stratosphere!

[@Saturn_Enslaved]

It's got that Nuclear man-hole cover vibe

[@RealGeorg3]

​@@Saturn_Enslaved niche reference, I'm here for it.

[@arno7804]

Had to look back for that, but yes! Did it land by now? 🤣

[@user-ex6xc5ox3k]

clearance clearwater revival

[@theodoremercutio1600]

good comment

[@nostalgia46]

I ain’t no fortunate son nah nah…

[@FerociousSniper]

Some folks were born printed spoon in hand.

[@eddyfofeddy]

Clearance clear printing survival

[@Quesoquantum]

Yeah they're blue green and other color idk?

[@Gotica_Gostosa]

Since then, 20 has never been found again.

[@Roobotics]

There are reasons 0.1 shouldnt come free like that. Mostly involving layer lines and filament edges with how they are inherently bumped in the middle. Might be slight underexteusion to gap the pieces further apart. But hey if it works it works and probably close enough for anything needing to be printed.

[@UnwrittenGamingftn]

If you look at it closely you can see the underextrusion. This guy just has no idea about it.....

[@littlejackalo5326]

Why should it not? Clearance is clearance. But I'm a machinist and I work down to 50 millionths sometimes. So is 0.1mm/4 thou just out of the question?

[@Roobotics]

@@littlejackalo5326 it basically means the slicer is cheesing it(or calibration not dialed in), the edges of wall extrudes have a curvature to the bead, the median of that curvature is more or less supposed to be the true shape. It's probably debatable to some degree, but basically his parts have some visible under-extrusion as well, therefore weaker structurally, but perform better on tolerance tests

[@daliasprints9798]

@@Roobotics A properly tuned printer has the bulging middles of the layers meeting as close as possible to the nominal extrusion width without exceeding it, not the average extent matching nominal. If you tune to the latter, your parts will interfere/fuse and you'll have to use designs tweaked (hacked) for your extrusion system rather than designs where the nominal extents match the real clearances you need.

[@agoose2730]

Who here also doesn't know what the hell a clearance coin is?

[@agoose2730]

@@minhuang8848 I watched the video first and I still don't know what it is.

[@liebenamor]

​@@minhuang8848I still have zero clue what it is after watching 5times but then again I don't own or never have own a 3d printer so this explains nothing to me I was just swiping through shorts. 🤷🏾‍♀️

[@camelface1]

I think it’s how close and precise it can print without fusing the separate pieces. Not 100% sure though.

[@liebenamor]

@@camelface1 thank you for explaining this in a way people who don't 3d print can understand.

[@GOTEEEMM479]

Same yet I'm still ready every comment like I know wtf is going on.

[@daliasprints9798]

If the 0.1 came off like that, someone (either you or the stock slicer settings) probably has some horizontal offset or other hack making the gap a lot larger than 0.1 mm, or extrusion is not calibrated right.

[@cinemoriahFPV]

No, you're just coping.

[@daliasprints9798]

@@cinemoriahFPV No, I've seen Bambus printing overspaced gaps frequently in the 3dp toys for tots campaign, where folks printing often have to adjust wheel clearances so they don't fall off. Some sort of fudging is going on in the slicer or firmware.

[@NigelTolley]

​@@cinemoriahFPV my Prusa did this print, it came off just fine, all the way down. But if you think that a 0.10mm gap on a *not spherical* part should come out like that, you're wrong. It literally shouldn't. If it did, something is cheating you on your friction fit.

[@witheredways4198]

​@NigelTolley i was with you untill you called .1 a friction fit

[@retardationnation869]

Im a machinist for a custom bearing manufacturing company and .1 mm isn't a friction fit. U start to get a friction fit around .025 mm(temp being consistent at least). Anything above that just needs to be taken off or put on correctly. Basically straight and not cocked at all.

[@johnm9263]

Clearance coins need super fine side definitions or it won't be perfectly circular and may even cause an artificial false negative or positive I've found spacings of

[@therealuno808]

“Percocet, Molly, Percocet.”

[@ryanhitchcock2518]

big fern

[@stephenperry7887]

They gang, we gang But they are not the same

[@littlereptilian7580]

Chase a check, never chase a b

[@LieutenantTheJackal]

Who else thought it was some fancy DnD gadget

[@skibidi.G]

I thought it was some mechanical utensil for unknown use

[@superBasher01]

i thought it was a ninja star or something

[@NPC-nn4qe]

I thought that was exactly what it was.

[@jAcK00p7]

To be honest, I thought it was just because I spent all last night preparing for my game today (that ended up being canceled)

[@MMXX_CE]

Guilty

[@An_n1]

Could you get something like a caliper to confirm this? It's hard to believe the AI mini has that much precision for 350$ without *any* sort of measurement or measuring equipment to even check.

[@riba2233]

A1 is really that good, shocking but yeah

[@daliasprints9798]

Pretty much any printer that's not utter shit has 0.02 mm positioning accuracy or better, but filament diameter tolerances and extruder issues are limiting for the final print.

[@riba2233]

@@daliasprints9798 true, and a1 series has a great single gear extruder that gives above average consistent and flat walls

[@TKWNNGGT]

For a moment i thought this was some wicked fidget spinner lmao.

[@Gerton999]

thought I was the only one lol

[@PlausibleParadymes]

For those who are less familiar with 3D printing, the single "coin" in this video consists of the main body and six tabs which have been printed in place into individual sockets. Each tab has a different number which denotes the gap (clearance / amount of space) the printer was programmed to leave between the tab and the socket it is set into on the coin itself. With enough clearance, the tab won't stick to the socket, allowing the coin to spin freely. Smaller successful clearance numbers will result in less wobble/slop in the movement of the part in its socket. The smallest successful clearance gap is determined by the printer's print resolution in conjunction with the printer's accuracy. If the printer tries to create a clearance gap that is too small for its resolution and accuracy, the tab will be stuck in the socket and be unable to be rotated. A frozen joint, so to speak.

[@Sokudo_Urai]

When I saw the thumbnail I just thought it was a brand new type of D&D dice

[@beast87660]

Bro said “Clearance Coin” and my dumbass thought “Oh, the numbers are percentages that he will somehow stamp onto product to be put on clearance, seems useful”

[@billythomas5616]

Yup

[@linkkicksu]

looked like a funky beyblade weight disk in the thumbnail

[@VengenzX]

Same here 😂

[@Orc-icide]

It's crucial to do small tolerance tests on a new printer, or even during a change of seasons/humidity. Awesome test, will try CADing one up

[@frozenbacon]

I have an A1 and .1mm is my goto for parts that I want to snap together and stick. As the part shrinks over time they become very difficult to separate, no glue required. For parts that are intended to move I recommend higher. I use .5 and that has been extremely reliable for tiny gears with a module of 1mm.

[@robster7787]

Bambu A1 mini is too good for what it does at the price it is offered at. Just note that it is in the same price range as a Prusa Mini+

[@rawsesix3606]

This is more a test of your print settings and not your printer. Can do this on a $200 Creality printer.

[@krabard]

What a beautiful filament you've used.

[@pingpongpaddlehead]

this guy is 3D printing blues

[@_mr.boss_1308]

What I have a ender 3 that I bought 5 years ago and never upgraded, I use 0.1 clearances for parts. Usually I match the clearance to the layer height or close to it. With a little bit of math u can find the error you have at layer heights and adjust for clearance if u want specific characteristics of parts

[@samgivner9010]

my k1c passed 0.05 on a different clearence test but my mind was blown

[@RageAye]

Thats pretty cool actually

[@stephenking9789]

the machine can only b as good as the plastic u feed it

[@loganmichello726]

So this model is designed specifically to test the limits of a 3D printer? Pretty neat

[@northwestrepair]

Print edge clearance does not define print quality. Underextrusion can make it possible but is underextrusion good ?

[@riba2233]

it is not underextruding no worries.

[@milo9951]

Hey fancy seeing you here mate!

[@SteveInScotland]

AnyCubic several are almost fused closed. A1 mini, all move. Best result ever. Love my A1 mini

[@error_6o6]

20 went “Aight, I’mma head out.”

[@CalebClingon-oj9es]

A set of decent calipers could really be useful here to check these out. Take an average of the diameter an check it to the drawing

[@cptcondor2363]

It also depends on the quality of your filament and the condition it is in. Wet filament performs worse than dry.

[@lassikinnunen]

You can make a printer get a gap on a 0.0001 on the stl. It just wont be correct then, but it wont be fused together. Point is you can't determine this without measuring, at least if you don't exactly know what the slicer did.

[@kirkendauhl6990]

As someone who doesn't own a 3d printer, nor has any shop experience besides my time watching This Old Tony, you can imagine my confusion for the first 2 times I watched this video.

[@DustBinny]

Been way too deep into Fatal Frame lately and my dumb ass thought it was one of those lock puzzles 😂

[@peopletakepicturesofeachother]

This guy is now part of the "6 comma club" (HBO's Silicon Valley reference)

[@Babycosmonaut]

Thought this was a pill press or something like that at first 😅

[@Rob_65]

"and the STL will be in the comments" Still looking ...

[@3Digiprint]

Look at my first comment

[@MakeDo-Turner_Smith]

​@@3Digiprint KZbin ony shows newest or top comments, not all or pinned.

[@merchantman5635]

@@3Digiprint more money than brains i see

[@daliasprints9798]

I see it just fine...

[@digitaldaz]

@@3Digiprint

[@DerPlaystationZocker]

Until I saw the "." I thought "since when are 10mm that small?"

[@captaindodge]

Love that giant bucket of flow calibration poop

[@Agent_7__]

I'm glad I got to watch the stream and see John Oppenheimer turn the entirety of the legion to ash in real time!

[@ja-no6fx]

impressive. try a standing one

[@Enzo-lc5lg]

New geometry dash's ball leak looks lit 🔥

[@LockBits-ts6eo]

Eh, I'd be impressed if you actually measured things to prove that there were clearances like this. In over 30 years of using 3D printers, I've yet to find a machine in that class that even meets the maker's specs, let alone a tolerance of 0.1mm (I take it that's an all-round clearance, not just the diameter?)...

[@VikingRul3s]

Really? My Ender 3 has been able too after a motherboard upgrade, proper alignment and proper calibration. Rail upgrades work wonders for adding high speed and acceleration, without compromising quality. Sure you have (had, mine is 4½y old now) to mess around with the cheap ones, but it's a hobby, so hours spend doesn't really matter a lot

[@Rob_65]

I just tuned in my PrusaXL for LW-PLA. After some 20x20 mm single wall cubes, I printed a 40x40x40 cube and that one measures 39.98 x 39.99 x 40.00 mm I call that a nice calibrated printer :-)

[@VikingRul3s]

@@Rob_65 Oh yes! I would say that's within tolerance. No really, that deviation is within the official tolerances we use in CNC produced metal industry/products, in fact that's within the "Fine" tolerance. Good job!

[@NigelTolley]

A stock Prusa can do this in an enclosure on a solid table. Without, not so much.

[@shaftomite007]

They haven't had 3D printers for 30 years

[@zakprice2128]

I like the texture of 3d printed items

[@crooker2]

This is my next printer, hands down.

[@pennywise-beats3587]

Looks like Hibana’s gadget

[@crazylolsbg]

Ah yes milimeters

[@gageparker850]

For the record I printed the same one on my Ender 3 and got the same results

[@DarkISO25]

Tempting but i still dont trust those single arm support types, feels like theyd sag or move too much. May grab the next one up before the sale ends

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

I'm not surprised at all, why are you? flow multiplier (extrusion multiplier) is tuned by companies for flows a bit lower than the ones set in the slicer default profiles, which results in under-extrusion and therefore good clearance. Do your flow multiplier tuning first, set it to the material settings, then do the clearance test at the speed you did the tuning, and then we talk.

[@slartibartfass5729]

Same with my calibrated Ender 3v2...

[@taggah2000]

The filament, filament condition, and associated setting will make a bigger difference than the printer

[@justfeeldbyrne2791]

It's almost like it's plastic and it can just snap out of the way

[@shawnmichaelis1609]

You are stupid 😂😂😂

[@zpa89]

Have you ever used a 3d printer? When the tolerance is too low the printer fuses two pieces into one. When that happens, wall to wall, the piece is more likely to break elsewhere, in the infill. That is assuming you could break it at all. I used a hammer and a chisel to free one of mine and it was a chore and marred the pieces to hell

[@Deriko31]

“We have clearance, Clarence.”

[@Haaroinarm]

Yall about to catch me with 3D printed vectors

[@TacoPoweredTimeTraveler]

Was that done in a single print? With the bearing-like pieces in the coin? I've never used a 3D printer but i didn't think they could do hinged joints like that much leas a part that resembles a bearing in a housing

[@TreeLuvBurdpu]

It's not in millimetres. It's in tenths of a multimeter, which is smaller.

[@michaelmccoy1794]

Still in millimeters, though. That's what the decimal is for. To indicate it is not a whole number. Of millimeters. The units are still mm's. 😊

[@Tipman2OOO]

That's what she... nevermind, nevermind

[@TreeLuvBurdpu]

​@@michaelmccoy1794Oh, didn't see that little decimal. Interesting on a clearance test.

[@Foxhood]

These tests need a revision/update. With both current generation BBL and Prusa Printers hitting the .10 mm on clearance tests and others starting to follow suit, most of these numbers like 0.20 and up are just a waste of time and filament. We need new more granular tests.

[@DaPlenThing]

My printer would fail even starting the first layer

[@fireboy558]

Should’ve printed the toaster I stead

[@CasperDaGhost702]

Check it with a micrometer

[@deucedeuce1572]

Damn, 0.1mm is 0.004", which is within the tolerances of actual steel ball joints. One of the surprising things to me is that the layers don't cause significant friction and mechanical interference. I know that some angles won't line up the layers to cause problems... but they seem to roll just fine at what appears to be the worst angle possible. (layer lines parallel and rolling across each other perpendicular to the lines.

[@CaveManEDU305]

You are using elegoo galaxy black pla. Very nice color

[@modlich_303]

sir, this is not a coin, this is a ring at best

[@BowhunterMinnesota]

Cool part, neat to see. But just don't forget that clearances are relative based on feature size and even shape. Both due to slicing and the inherently inaccurate stages of adding stepped surfaces to approximate spheres and surfaces, and also steppers. As you might imagine, stepper motors have to choose a step to go to. This adds another level of inaccuracy.

[@monkfry]

My little King Roon rips all the time stock with minimal slicer adjustments. $179.

[@Thee_Gamefanatic]

My 2018 3D printer out of the box would print this down to 0.05mm (with a snap). You should be able get to this level with minor tuning.

[@blankpaper8961]

Thought it was an ancient fidget spinner for a minute

[@dillonweaver2307]

Does that totally show clearance or does it also expose possible tolerance issues if you can take apart something that supposed to be so tight?

[@itzmedb8290]

I thought it was a fidget spinner in the thumbnail, ngl

[@grimmace7182]

i cant wait to use this to hold all my perc 30s

[@gemerat]

A very useful tool when you want to neatly stack your coins of 15, 30 and 35 cents !

[@causticmain5002]

At first I thought you made a new tool like feeler gauges.

[@Freakmaster480]

Perform an estep calibration / extrusion multiplier test for the printer/filament. I'm wondering if the printer isn't underextrudimg and giving inaccurate results.

[@billcarriveau]

Just under extrude your other printers, it will be the same. My a1mini vs my x1c are identical with tuned filiments per printer.

[@geesegeyser7947]

They are now printing the percs

[@NamasenITN]

Isn't the hand "removal" of each piece a necessary but not a sufficient condition to prove a given level of precision?

[@optimusprime7243]

Literally every single child: "he's making a fidget spinner!1!1!1"

[@fullautoshotty]

Legend has it, when the blood moon is full, the 20 will return from whence it was banished

[@lolTungsten]

Rip .2 you’ll be missed

[@pnwcut]

This is bambu ❤

[@Oxzide92]

And here I thought you won the Oxy Jackpot.

[@electricpaisy6045]

How can you measure precision on the z axis? That makes no sense since it's about how you levelled the bed.

[@deejmix7510]

For a minute I thought that was like a spark plug tool or something lol

[@hirohiroarikawa6806]

It looks like the vault doors in fallout

[@curt32807]

Whats the filament your using here?

[@bengineering3d]

Could be under extrusion or x-y compensation but it shouldn’t be that loose.

[@NIGHTDREADED]

Looks good, but how are you managing heat? Is there any active cooling? Because those modules run pretty hot.

[@ramiroolarte7169]

Honest question from someone who barely knows 3d printers. Why would you need that quality in something that is not intended to have it? Can this replace a hard milled or injected part?

[@elvendragonhammer5433]

Most of the time it can't replace it because of insufficient structural integrity, rather than tolerance issues. I'm not saying that it can't replace it but it really depends on the object's use case. If it's a shelf ornament obviously it needs little in the way of strength or resilience. But it's needed for what's known as "print in place" models. in other words, things with gears, moving parts that can move but either don't need assembly, or very little. Like a RC transmission gearbox that is completely self contained. Just moving it the first few times is enough to break the parts free from each other or their housing, & the excess flashing/burrs will eventually just wear down or separate. It's useful for lots of moving objects & toys assuming your kid isn't going to try to eat it. I made a complete camera tripod assembly this way, just had to add legs. I fully expect this to be able to eventually do the same for metal 3d printing - so said gearbox made from aluminum, with no casting molds, expensive production lines, etc. At some time in the future you will be able to custom create or take a scan of something & make a new one out of any material you choose from, with physical/visual properties that are identical or superior to the original, all for a negligible cost compared to conventional production.

[@ianski6430]

Reminds me of a operator ability in rainbow six siege

[@Skeeerttttt]

I legit thought this was a Beyblade part

[@BcImSmokin]

My high ass thought you were printing those for dnd or som 😂

[@bastartx]

What settings did you use and how long took it to print it?

[@nasonguy]

Honestly I’m really happy with the .25mm I’m able to eke out of my old third hand Ender 3 lmao.

[@motooppGTA]

Bro's 3d printing fake M30s aka blues 😂 💙

[@CosmicTylerVR]

is that burnt titanium filament?

[@straightjacket308]

That's actually really impressive and I don't know shit about 3D printing 🤣

[@someonewithaguitar]

Does the gcode take the layer width into account? I know nothing about 3d printing

[@3Digiprint]

There’s settings to make sure it stays within the parameters of the model. This is a test to see if it is working or not.