Your First Engine Job - Digging Out The Crankshaft And Checking Critical Points

Unlike disassembling the rest of the engine, crankshaft removal requires making some measurements and observations before it's actually removed. Here we look at the thrust clearance, journal bearing surface, main caps and main bearing condition to help assess which pieces are going need machining or replacing before we can proceed to order our parts.
#jeep4.0 #classiccar #musclecar #engines
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[@Thepurpleguerrilla]

Man. I could sit around forever with older guys like this just soaking up knowledge

[@georgem8200]

Reading some peoples comments,they still just don't get it. A genuine HotRodder is teaching us, kids be quite.

[@OldBondoBilly]

I’m no mechanic, but I built a wrecked 88 vette in 91. Got it straightened out only to find out the crank was bent. They said I couldn’t pull the motor out the top, but I did. They said I couldn’t change the crank without pulling the rods/pistons, but I did. They said I couldn’t do all kinds uh things, but I did. I’m a bodyman; I gotta do everything…😁

[@rockharvey5787]

Hey Bondo Billy! Glad to see one of my favorite channels commenting on another of my favorite channels!

[@CODA-Improvements]

Tony, thank you for continuing to go through this series in detail . They’re not big view numbers at first, but these will always be there for novices like myself as a reference forever and we are grateful for it .

[@DanEBoyd]

Yep, excellent series! Only time I totally tore down an engine, I knew it wasn't going back together. It was an EFI Ford 5.0 HO with a wiped out crank snout and a couple of rusted cylinders. I chucked the block and crank, but still have all of the guts. And I bothered to put each rod cap back on, and facing the same way, as soon as I got its piston and rod out of the block. I found an extra bearing half in that block too! Can't remember if it was rod or main.

[@BrewBlaster]

I was hoping this motor had more problems for more teachable moments. Those are great motors, so even an abused one can look better than most.

[@JimNapaCA]

This is supposed to be a cheap rebuild! Like I said before, $500

[@TONTONAP]

I so tired of the music people add

[@kaboom4679]

Look before you rip . Always good advice , especially in public .

[@JacksoNR26]

I always learn something new in uncle tony vids, don't stop making content utg

[@carltotillo8301]

"The malaise era". I love it!

[@mattross7596]

I've been a mechanic for 40 years many engine overhauls and repairs I have never had an issue with replacing cam bearings care and cleanliness the key

[@SpeedyG289]

“I didn’t get a harumph outa that guy.” Seriously good video. Thanks Unk.

[@crappieslinger]

Wow!! So many know-it-alls watching your channel. I enjoy your content Tony and hope you continue the same format. I learn something or stop and think about my previous opinion/thoughts on many issues. I enjoy thought provoking videos and you do a good job of it. To hell with all the know-it-alls. If they are so intelligent they can go shoot their own videos. I like your no bullshit style. Keep it up Tony!

[@al_dente4777]

There is a special ward in Hell reserved for these know-it-alls. I can't wait to see the expressions on their faces at judgement day, as they stand over their personally assigned-to trap doors 😱

[@OldBeaterGarage]

#7 main cap MIGHT have been removed to do a rear main seal and not retorqued to the right lb-ft.

[@youwish3575]

I was thinking the same thing. The 4.0 loves to eat rear main seals, and most of us replace them by just taking off the oil pan and popping off the cap. And not a lot of us use a torque wrench like we’re supposed to.

[@kaboom4679]

My thought as well .

[@gmjunky87]

Came here to make the same comment 👍

[@cefb8923]

​@@youwish3575I can't understand why anyone would not use a torque wrench on a surface with a bearing lol

[@kylekaupang7646]

Everyone should have an Uncle Tony growing up to learn from. Thanks for all of the lessons, Tony!

[@ricksshop]

It's great to see a channel where the host actually knows what he/she is talking about. Tony, I know you've rebuilt many engines because I've run into the cam bearing issues mentioned at least half a dozen times in the last 30 years. After tapping in a new set of bearings it's not uncommon to have to sand the #1 bearing a bit to get the cam to turn freely. Kudos for pointing that out.

[@skymouflage]

As an old gearhead I love your videos

[@orig66Super]

I rushed out to buy a dial indicator so it could fall and hit the concrete floor.

[@ingles-pasoporpaso8697]

Maestro, as we say in Mexico! Master!! Teacher!!!

[@tonenuff]

Don’t forget to ring the crank! 🛎️

[@buckshotprepper8417]

I helped my dad and uncles rebuild engines wen I was young I wish I'd have paid more attention because now I have to rebuild my first engine on a budget by myself cuz their all gone now I've got it all tore apart now sure wish I'd have sit down on a sat and binge watched all yur videos cuz I sure would have saved myself some time and money 😆

[@lautburns4829]

Many big 6’s would come to our AMC dealership with 150k miles, usually with about 5 psi oil pressure at idle. We would replace bearings with 1 under size and all was well. They are a tough engine.

[@daviduglem3213]

Tony, I've been following this series on the engine rebuild. Your knowledge is invaluable. Should be a primer for anybody who plans to rebuild a motor of any kind. Thanks again and say hi to Kathy.

[@chriskucia8348]

Lack of snap on the rear bearing cap may be an indication that the rear main seal was replaced at some point in it's life. It's a common failure point. IIRC, at least on the 99-01, you pull the bearing cap and then can fish out the seal and push the replacement in (they come in halves) without having to drop the crank.

[@pauljanda5262]

Exactly what I was thinking.

[@lonniecross4698]

X3

[@cefb8923]

Same with any 4.0 or 4.2.

[@al_dente4777]

I bought an older car with a virtually rust-free body that has an engine knock somewhere. Using my stethescope, I couldn't pinpoint the knock's origin at the crankshaft. It was somewhere up there on the cylinder head and I had my doubts, after having adjusted the valve clearance. To make sure that the noise didn't originate at the botom end, I then tore off the pan and began popping the caps off of the rods. The bearing closest to the oil pump was the worst and the ones following were progressively better, towards the other end. There was some scuffing, of which you mentioned, and I measured their clearances with Plastiguage, afterwards. Because of the inconvenience of doing everything otherwise right, I followed a forum post to where one guy simply threw new bearings in his and then ran the engine on the heaviest recommended oil of which the service manual dictated. Because my crank was still within specs, I then ordered new bearings and installed them. The noise was still there. But, at least, I knew that I could drive it for a while, without worrying about spinning a rod bearing. Having only 60.000 miles on it and was originally owned by an older lady, I suspect that the dealer who regularly "serviced" this vehicle was bogarting her big time, through maybe packing some valve-grind compound into the filter, during an oil change, in order to sell her unnecessary service. Here, the original air filter still in it when I got it: i.imgur.com/1ldiQ7k.jpg i.imgur.com/fpc1Co1.jpg Here are the old rod bearings: i.imgur.com/5H0FXHw.jpg Even though, they didn't stick it to me directly, this still infuriates me, to think that there are Scumbags out there who do these things, without any fear of karma biting them back

[@Grumpy-sy7wr]

15:30 I was about to comment, that I'd be more than tempted to just put those main caps back on, without disturbing the bearings. They're probably better quality, and would last longer than new Chinesium ones 😆 One thing that came to mind, is comments in previous videos about Tony not using power tools, I'd equate that with comparing a craftsman to an assembly line parts changer.

[@youwish3575]

I like that word: Chinesium. Gonna use that from now on.

[@OldBeaterGarage]

Hopefully he uses Clevite as they are still made in USA (at least the last time I bought them they were). KING Is Made in Israel but are quality too.

[@al_dente4777]

@@youwish3575 If people would stop buying that crap, they would stop shipping it over. One of the reasons as to why I no longer board an airline is because I've read that some of them knowingly buy counterfeit parts from there

[@Alhammadi-gy5jb]

Perfect teacher ❤

[@lilmike2710]

Precision Automotive Machine.. Machine shop in Birmingham Alabama. I've never had nor heard any complaints about this place. Been in business for years.

[@oldblueaccord2629]

Thats is really great point....there arnt many good shops left so doing something like this, sometimes leaving well enough alone is better than some hack turning your crank down .030 and handing it back to you.

[@robertheymann5906]

Thx... A careful disassembly can tell you so much about a motor, I don't even use impact tool for the reason you explained, I want to feel and hear every fastener.

[@JFSmith-nb8hf]

Thanks Tony. As to parts, I've always stuck with the time tested ones, TRW, Federal Mogul, Felpro, ya'll know the ones. Have never gone wrong.

[@yurimodin7333]

UTG 4 LIFE

[@jeffwombold9167]

I like this video because it brings back memories of my engine building days. Built my first one when I was 13, and built a few dozen more in the 70s and 80s. Pretty good video for beginners!

[@johnmccabe4596]

Hit the crank with a hammer if it rings like a bell it's good .

[@heep34987yt]

I can’t thank you enough for taking the time for helping out and teaching the novice or inexperienced DIY guy about engine building. I have a 1968 F100 with a 240 I6 that I plan on leaving to my nephew some day. I have no kids, and he loves the truck, neither one of us has much more than tinkering experience but now I am looking forward to working on the truck with him, and your videos give me confidence we can do it. Thank You.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

I thought that was one of the last years for the 240. We got one local, on a gen set. Runs so damned smooth ,as it sits at 1800. Sewing machine smooth. The gen is done for if it quits working, no parts available for 15yrs now probably.

[@rescuedandrestoredgarage]

That's awesome, brother, coming together great 👍.

[@funone8716]

Wow seems to be in nice shape. Deglaze, new rings and valve job and slap it back together with those parts.

[@NoralBlundell]

Good teacher this bloke 💯👍🦘

[@boilerroomed3682]

AHA! I caught you dumping those bearing studs into a pile......

[@KurtTank392]

Great tutorial for a beginner like myself

[@rustybritches6747]

Quick hone, new rings, one piston send it!

[@jeremyjc1978]

"These main caps are seated so you might have to" proceeds to use dad strength to pull all of em off like nothing 😂😂 That had me laughing

[@brokentoolgarage8609]

Good stuff! You are right on the money with some things you can go cheap and some things you gotta pay!

[@valterbeicinha9633]

It makes sense dor the 3rd main bearing cap having more uneven wear in comparison of the other ones since it has the thrust caps too

[@petereffin4373]

I love your content Tony! I have no interest in ever building an engine but I find your videos quite interesting.

[@toejam503]

Plastigage the used main bearings before you decide to keep them?? Just saying.

[@kart70]

On top of that, wouldn't be the worst idea in the world to check the various journals with a caliper too. I've seen a splash oil small engine with a beautiful looking rod journal with 0.003" out of round. Hard to say if this happens too terribly much on pressure lubed crankshafts. Just want to say appearances can be deceiving.

[@TAVOAu]

I got something out of that. I hope everyone else watching did, as I just yanked my crank out without bothering showing, or even checking any of that, in my video of the Hemi 6, to compare the oh so subtle differences with this Jeep 4.0, and there don't appear to be too many. Nice work and explanation Tony.

[@thejeepdoctor]

Tony, two things I want to tell you. The timing chain cover doesn’t have dowels to align it. They make a tool that fits over the crank and fits into the front crank seal. This centers the seal to the crank. You can lightly install timing chain cover, then install harmonic balancer then tighten cover bolts. Next thing is the distributor. Look at bottom side of the distributor and you will see a small hole. This is used to align/time the distributor shaft. With #1 tdc on compression stroke and drill bit or what ever you use,install the distributor. The factory puts a piece of plastic in it, until it’s installed in the engine. You then pull it out. Those two little fingers that stick out should have the hold down bolt pass through them. But be sure that you use that hold down bracket that you found in the early videos of this engine. The PCM controls the timing. Be sure to use a new distributor gasket or it will leak. Hope you read this and have a wonderful day.

[@chrisluquette1615]

I believe Tony knows this...

[@conniekahl8015]

Good info! Nice job.

[@sirjhonson8218]

When I worked at the wrecking yard we had cheap engines that we polished the worn barring and put an oversized one in with a 6 month warranty. Some of those engines lasted for years.

[@captainjohnh9405]

During the awkward silences, let Uncle Kathy tell us a joke!

[@mikecollins8241]

Ive owned, but rarely used, a "speed wrench" for years.. I think I need to start using it more! Impact/ battery tools just don't tell you what's going on :)

[@johndoe43]

Thank you for all you do and share. I always learn something. I need to start taking notes

[@spankyham9607]

Every engine I have taken apart always has had that burned oil smell when I take the bolts out.

[@timrayburn2461]

Thank you Tony and Cathy

[@thewilddinkus8026]

I've always been told that if you don't check the cam bearings they are still good 😂

[@motov8-garage832]

Seems just about every time I check something out.. It's broke, worn, or should be fixed.. I hate checking on stuff..😄

[@DanEBoyd]

Till someone lets Schrodinger's cat out of the box...

[@michaelgarrow3239]

Same theory on hospital’s

[@mostlyoldparts]

That's only on LS engines!

[@440phoenix]

Hahaha

[@annamckinney6622]

On re-using cam bearings. On mopars, aren't they supposed to all be undersized and have to be fitted to the cam? I seem to remember something about that (cutting them with a knife or using an old cam with grooves cut in it.)

[@thomasknobbe4472]

There used to be a gentleman by the name of Justin Wilson who had a cooking show called The Cajun Chef on Louisiana Public Television. Justin did not believe in pre-cooking any of his recipes, so he would have time to kill on the air while things were in the oven. Not a problem for Justin, as he was one of those naturally funny people who would keep us entertained with stories while we all waited. The only problem was faced by the cameraman, who would struggle to keep the camera from shaking while he or she laughed along with the stories. Too often, he would fail. You need some Justin Wilson stories to tell while you are unbolting those crankshaft bearings. Aheee!

[@adamcweber]

These 4.0L engines were notorious for oil leaks from the rear main seal/rear oil pan gasket seal to where literally every single one leaked and needed to be repaired at some point at least once or multiple times. I did countless of these in the dealerships and independent work after the dealer. I noticed it had a Felpro oil pan gasket so more than likely those rear main bearing cap bolts have been off before to replace the rear main seal. Also that smell when pulling the main cap bolts off is normal and not a sign of overheating necessarily. Also make sure you reseal the oil filter adapter as those like to leak as well.

[@UncleTonysGarage]

You are most likely correct, and I'll point that out in the next vid.

[@catmogguy]

Pulling block apart if I come across loose bolt I'd say beautiful a loose 1 😂so I'm learning something new every time watch your clip's thank for your information 👍

[@Mr.Avuncular]

T.O.T BRINGING THE HEAT TO THE EDGE!!!!👍👏👏👏

[@DrShankenstein]

And there we have it, Uncle Tony has a beautiful crank. I know, I know, I need to grow up. Anyways, very informative as usual. I definitely appreciate the work that was put into making this video.

[@samhicks97]

Considering rebuilding my Big block chrysler 361, but seeing how shoddy the quality control is for new parts, (especially the lifers) that has me quite worried. Would be interesting to see a video on using NEW parts vs, NOS crankshafts/camshafts from the 60's 70's. Kind of like Uncle Kathy's charger, has that Crane fireball cam.

[@sewing1243]

I sure wish KZbin and Uncle Tony would have been around when I rebuilt my one and only engine (in the late 1970s). It's a wonder it even ran when I put it back together. When I took the block (with the pistons and crank still in it) to the machine shop the guy that ran the shop took a look at it and told me that all I really should have been doing was having the heads done because the bottom of the engine was almost pristine.

[@al_dente4777]

He certainly was around. Unfortunately, he didn't have his video channel up and running yet 🙄

[@johannriedlberger4390]

My first engine job was an 304 AMC that was 30 years ago. It turned out quite well even I had no experience or an automotive job as a background. Now I've jumped in cold water again and taking apart the 1UZ-FE that powers my boat. Seems to be quite hi-tec but today they are classics too. Tomorrow I'll take out the crank of the block. Your videos are very helpful because the basics are still the same. Just gave an abo.

[@Just_Mark]

Thank you for doing an engine job like this for regular people. To be quite honest, I was hoping you would have something in a little worse shape to see how you would handle those kind of issues… maybe a little better comparison of what a good one looks like as opposed to a bad one.

[@user-wv1pj6wh4h]

Very good explanation uncle.thnak you.Made me remeber somethings i had already forgotten. God bless you.

[@dartvader9939]

Yep take your time and look at everything and nowadays you can take pics with the phone to document just in case you forget

[@jseal21]

I think the cam bearing part could've had more emphasis on replacing since this channel is geared to the newb but totally justified in not replacing. Good work always a nugget or two of wisdom to be had here. 👍

[@firebird77clonefirebird89]

This video is designed to showcase what THIS engine needs for a rebuild tailored to the expected application.

[@oldsjetfire8975]

I almost always reuse the cam bearings on the 215 Olds engines.

[@youwish3575]

This is a great series. I’ve been wrenching for decades. Both on cars and on aircraft, but I’ve never tackled an engine rebuild. Never had to, luckily. As for parts ordering, I’d say use rock auto. They carry so many different brands you can tell us why you pick one over the other.

[@jeremyhanna3852]

King engine bearing are available in .001 Increments for rods mains and thrust on both surfaces

[@Greaseland]

I hope you give that engine one of your fancy paint jobs.

[@conniekahl8015]

PURPLE!

[@tonypimm8940]

There I was, getting ready to do an “I gotcha” on those bolts, and then you caught the error. No harm, no foul. But now you have to check them all because they got mixed up. Oh well.

[@al_dente4777]

If all of them turn out to be within specs, that'll prove that someone had the cap off, in order to replace the seal

[@Walkeranz]

I have a cracked head and a hole in piston number 1 in my 4.0. Time to drop the pan and check out the rod bearings. I might need an engine stand and a hoist…

[@DanEBoyd]

Hah, I caught that when you were dumping the main studs/bolts willy-nilly on the bench! I figured that you must've gotten some ARPs or something.

[@stephendavidcavuoti6548]

It’s very interesting but it’s on motor motor down. I’m gonna make sure that I am going to use. No old are used or wore out parts that might slip by me to calls me to have to tear it all down again so the best way to do this is to build your motor properly.!

[@WhiteTrashMotorsports]

Maybe the bolts didn't crack because someone had them out before to change the rear seal.

[@conniekahl8015]

My friend has been watchin this 4.0 build, so now he's wanting to go thought his just kuz! Influencer! I used one of those 400 TQ intakes on my Super Bee, worked better than DP4B with a adapted TQ. Gotta love the Thermo Quads. The Blower intake is 27lb and it's like 1.5 thicker than DP4B that should get a shipping price. I'll ship it anyway you want.

[@joshpierce3003]

First off, thanks for the video series, lots of great info. You are helping and teaching alot of people. Thank you! My question is, can you show the cam removal and inspecting the cam?

[@AndrewHemstreet]

Roaming the junkyard, you see that aluminum block V8 that would lighten up your project, you didn't think I'd be in budget but it's the same price at this yard! What are clues it overheated and should you/I/we care? if you're going to go completely though it like you are

[@user-wv1pj6wh4h]

yes i would put new bearings back... after mesure it, new parts are garbage.. we have to be carefull.I woul d give a light polish to crank

[@martinkuhne452]

I would change all bearings even if the still look good. The engine is now once apart. The standard bearings dont cost so much, Mahle/Clevite for Rods, Crankshaft and Cam

[@robertchall8576]

I would say depends on what and how long you plan to keep a engine as what to do to it.

[@1magnit]

It's a cast iron crank, they don't need hardening because cast iron is very hard. Test it with a file. Steel cranks are induction hardened on only the journals, they have soft counterweights, again test with a file.

[@derekhobbs1102]

On Datsun L4, they didn't mark main cap 2 and 4, and they're visually the same, so I just punch 2 dots on cap 2.

[@ptrd4111]

If I can make a suggestion: tripod. Camera guy is doing a good job, but it's hard to see those very subtle engine movements because he's shaking.

[@Jim_M_75]

Those big end journals were lovely for and old used engine. The main shells looked like they could have just been changed, do you have any idea of the miles on this engine Tony, it's mad just how good condition the rotating assembly is. This was really well looked after, other than a dry start or two it's brand new, great find.

[@danhambrick6331]

Now take that crank and trade it for a 4.2L crank.😁😁

[@haro997]

I like the windage tray bolts Tony. It's hard to find an inexpensive source. Can you tell us if they match up to Mopar small block/magnum

[@benjamintresham9649]

Rear main seal would have been replaced, possibly a few times

[@markwoten6679]

On my 79 F150 302, I found the vibration damper was damaged over the years. I thought it was the crankshaft pulley being warped when the engine was operating. I tore into the engine to find bad timing chain, bad vibration damper, bad cam bearings and crankshaft thrust bearing was showing a lot of wear. Engine ran great and didn’t smoke. I plan on need cam and crank bearings. Another recommendations? Engine is stock and never apart.

[@2HacksGarage]

Before you hone it, are you going to check for cylinder taper?

[@ercost60]

Great video! And yes please use a dial indicator for end play.

[@fireballxl-5748]

@5:17 on the crankshaft would you recommend grinding off the flash edges on a non-performance engine? Now would seem to be the time if it would be a good thing.

[@Im_the_guy88]

Any reason why a thrust washer would find its way into the sump / oil pick up area ?

[@EvilTribble1]

It's not luck, AMC 4.0 are just that good.

[@v6ileib]

One little backyard trick for worn thrust bearings: If the thrust bearings are separate from main bearing you can glue tinfoil on the backside with high temp epoxy to reduce crank end play.

[@johndunn678]

Question, wouldn't you mic thrust area on the crank? Otherwise you won't know if it is crank wear or trust bearing surface wear. Enjoying these videos as I got a 2002 4.0 to freshen up and it is nice to get a preview of the insides.

[@cheatingiscompeting3647]

For that awkward section i think you should just make some impact noises to appease certain viewers.

[@witnesszer0]

i had some cam bearings one time that looked perfect until you touched them they started flaking off the top layer of metal

[@jamesnewberry58]

Internal engine parts. NASHVILLE

[@heathvice8365]

Thanks Tony

[@derekhobbs1102]

Since it needs pistons, are you going to balance rods while they're off to make it that bit nicer?