Your Hifi System is Filthy! Fix for $1

Pangea Vulvan Rack (4 Shelf) amzn.to/3GLGf9u
Pangea Vulcan Rack (5 Shelf) howl.me/chnBLuHLhyT
World's Best RCA Cables amzn.to/3zgwOgo
Electric Tape (Audiophile Certified) amzn.to/390Rezy
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Recommended Streamer
WIIM Mini amzn.to/33CL99w
Bluesound Node shop-links.co/cgGiqJ2UFIO
Recommended Speaker List
Around $100 (These prices will fluctuate between $75 - $150)
Sony SSCS5 - Lively amzn.to/3pZNnGk
Pioneer AJ First Gen - Laid Back
Neumi BS5 -Neutral amzn.to/3q0SR3B
Around $200
Emotiva Airmotiv B1+ - Crystal Clear and Punchy emotiva.com?aff=9
Elac Debut b5.2 - Neutral amzn.to/2WPNQxw
Wharfedale Diamond 11.2 (In and Out of Stock) - Laid Back/Bassy/Detailed amzn.to/37W8hPA
JBL Stage A130 - Neutral/Great All Arounder at $179 the best value amzn.to/3t7gOHe
Around $400
Klipsch RP600M - Neutral amzn.to/3pBoXCf (This speaker’s price can fluctuate between $440-630 which is really dumb)
Jamo C93ii Bit - Boosted on Top amzn.to/3beIG6F (Can also be found cheaper at Crutchfield)
Q Acoustics 3030i - Neutral with Punch - amzn.to/2OQkpLo
Around $500
SVS Prime bit.ly/2LozJgF
Wharfedale Diamond 12.2 bit.ly/2ZckoD9
Around $600
Elac Uni-Fi UB5.2 - Neutral amzn.to/3s3srPG
Elac Debut Reference - Buttery but Detailed amzn.to/39bt6WC
Polk Reserve R100 - Neutral
Aperion Novus - Neutral and probably the best desktop speaker one can get $599 bit.ly/2Q1H9rW
Aperion Novus Open Box $449 bit.ly/3us8zGx
Wharfedale Diamonds Lush and Detailed amzn.to/3aBAso0 Come as singles
Recommended Amp List
Under $100
Aiyima A07 - Neutral and Full amzn.to/3g9YLNf
Around $130
SMSL AD18 - DAC/Amp Lively on top but solid tone controls amzn.to/3rVZxkN
SMSL SA300 $140 amzn.to/3u83oLs
Around $250
SMSL DA-9 Balanced Amp amzn.to/34SdbLs
Around $400
Emotiva TA-100 - DAC, Phono Stage, Pre Outs - Balanced and Tasty emotiva.com?aff=9
Vista Audio Spark www.vista-audio.com/products.htm
Recommended DACs
FX D01 amzn.to/3d9GY6U
SMSL SU8s amzn.to/2SWTGiw
Denafrips Ares 2 www.denafrips.com/ares
Subs
Emotiva SE8 emotiva.com?aff=9
Emotiva SE12 emotiva.com?aff=9
SVS SB1000 Pro bit.ly/3scmwsc

[@cheapaudioman]

Pangea Vulvan Rack (4 Shelf) amzn.to/3GLGf9u - Pangea Vulcan Rack (5 Shelf) howl.me/chnBLuHLhyT --World's Best RCA Cables amzn.to/3zgwOgo ----Electric Tape (Audiophile Certified) amzn.to/390Rezy -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------www.patreon.com/cheapaudioman ----Tidal Deal bit.ly/3siuqSF ---Crutchfield shop-links.co/cguPK8XEGmt --Best Buy Deals shop-links.co/cf9yDZeYtUH -amzn.to/3GkNaop ---CAM Store (New Products!) bit.ly/30Lgu4K -----apos.audio?sca_ref=552340.TY98BPcZ6P ------massdrop.7eer.net/qnOye5 --------Amazon Unlimited Music and Disney Plus Free Trial amzn.to/3DRAVj9

[@kyron42]

Hey Randy I think you've started something getting people to declare their technical qualifications or experience at the start of their comment. I hope it's a trend that continues.

[@jimfarrell4635]

Retired Doctor here, Randy. May I just point out that we used to have a Vulvan Rack in gynaecology. Very useful it was too....😉 Sorry. Couldn't resist when I saw your typo. Feel free to delete on grounds of poor taste.

[@cheapaudioman]

@@jimfarrell4635 yikes

[@jimfarrell4635]

@@cheapaudioman 😃

[@erickessler6094]

Brother, Where is your affiliate link to your firman power conditioner? Cheers, Eric

[@RobCCTV]

I AM an electronics engineer and I can confirm that it is very well worth unplugging then replugging the low voltage signal cables, once a year at least. The fact is, even with gold-clad connectors suffer some level of oxidation that can cause impedance problems, or worse still, a diode-like effect of the oxides can actually cause noticeable distortion if left too long. So Randy, you get a well deserved thumb up for this vid. To a lesser extent, speaker cables and power cables need to be removed and replugged too, but they are less likely to cause problems, assuming they were seated correctly (i.e. firmly) in the first place.

[@grhaggerty]

I'm using kimber kable that I stored back in the 90's. I just started using it again and it seems to be ok, but the cable must be about 30yrs old.

[@fonkenful]

@@grhaggerty Might the higher voltages/currents at speaker level outputs play a part in that. Another question is whether locations with continuous higher humidity levels (say, like Bermuda, Costa Rica, etc) experience higher incidences of oxidizing related distortions?

[@billd9667]

I use DeOxit on all RCA connectors at least once per year and put silicone caps on unused ones

[@erics.4113]

@@fonkenful I lived by the beach for 20 years, with a window facing the salt side. That sweet cool ocean marine layer (fog) you get off the water in the morning is a salt death to anything metal in your surroundings. I had stainless steel pieces start to show rust pits. Any metal screws on your gear would begin to rust in about a year. It's a beautiful way to ruin your stuff but it... Ruins your stuff and quicker than you can believe.

[@fonkenful]

@@erics.4113 Just yesterday I had to effect a repair to dented metal tweeter dome on my son in law’s 24yr old B&W DM604s in Bermuda, which required removing the front mounted Kevlar coned midrange to access the rear mounted twist lock tweeter assembly. These are vented enclosures, and even though I’m assuming the midrange / tweeter section is sealed, there was noticeable corrosion on the mid’s cast aluminum baskets and tweeter’s exposed pole piece; and let’s not forget about the straps on the bi-wire binding posts.

[@AudioExplorer]

I am NOT an electronics engineer but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. 👍

[@pauln6803]

White Velcro ties sound brighter and cleaner, whereas the black has a darker background. I need to find some clear ones so my system can be more transparent. I only buy HiFi certified cryo treated Velcro as the cheaper hook and loop ties "destroy the music" and I don't feel as much PRAT - © Naim audio forum 🤣🤣

[@JukeboxAlley]

That's good stuff, you put some thought into that one. There may be an audiophile on here tho that may take this seriously and go on a Velcro buying frenzy tho LMAO!

[@pauln6803]

@@JukeboxAlley I think it's high time I bought some fancy boxers, a load of Velcro ties and an ad in a HiFi magazine...

[@richardwestmoreland4796]

@@JukeboxAlley if Randy would have maybe used the words "warm and fuzzy" somewhere in his advice for tie-downs it just might send some hardcore audiophiles off the deep end on said buying frenzy. p.s. I'm neither an electrical engineer or a doctor but I might give it a go if someone were to offer me the part in a cheesey tv show or commercial advertisement.

[@kyron42]

I'm an electrical engineer ( I hope this makes Randy happy). Yes it's a good idea to separate power and signal cables. Keep the signal cables away from RFI and EMI.

[@Shade_Tree_Mechanic]

I still remember hearing a few systems in vehicles that had a whine that would play through the speakers. It was engine RPM dependent as the alternator induced a signal into the nearby RCA's

[@JamesSavik]

While I'm not an electrical engineer, I've spent much time in network wiring closets and data centers. I can't tell you how many nightmare wiring closets I've been in that were impossible to work in. In some, you could not even tell what boxes were even live. Being sort of OCD, my first move is always to get an idea about what the network is supposed to be doing, take pictures and then disassemble everything and put it back the way it should be: power on the left, network cabling on the right, and fiber stuff going up. Then I would label everything. It took a little longer, but the customers liked the results. It makes it easier to work on. The reason you want to separate power cables from the rest is that AC current can interfere with the weaker signals in network or audio cables. The mess occurs when everyone who comes out to do an installation does his thing and leaves. Then that becomes layers and before too long, there is no telling what is going on. When you clean up the mess and apply cable management practices, you make whatever you are working on neater, you're able to follow what's going on, and it's easier to debug or install new gear.

[@philipketchum1407]

I’m an electronics engineer in healthcare. For the most part you covered it all. I would make sure your cables have as little to no stress at the connections. Try not to let them hang or pull on your components inputs. Velcro and labels can be your best friend!!! I would stay away from tape and zip ties. Also, you are correct on crossing low and high voltage cables. Best to just keep them an inch or more apart.

[@missing1102]

This is one of the best videos I have ever seen on you tube. I wouldn't ever post a picture of my wiring or my speakers out of shame. This gave me hope.

[@jdlech]

Electrical tape, especially the cheap stuff, has a habit of turning sticky over time, especially if exposed to heat. Then it collects dust and basically unravels and turns into a gooey mess after a few years. I use the wire ties I collect from opening stuff in packaging. You know the ones you get when you buy your kid a new toy and it comes wire tied into a package that generally takes a crow bar and blow torch to get out of the packaging? Yeah - instead of cutting the toy out, I actually take the time to un-knot those twist ties. Then I save them for future cable management behind my stereo system. It works quite well, and some of those twist ties are exceedingly long. Just cut to length when you're done. You can use zip ties, but that's significantly more expensive. The other thing is that I would never create a wiring harness. That puts signal paths in close proximity in dubiously shielded RCA cables - just ripe for RFI. I prefer my cables physically separated as much as possible, and definitely nowhere near power cables. You could probably get away with bundling XLR cables as they have much better grounded shielding. Of course, I would love to cut and make my cables to the exact length I need. But the cost of making my own cables is far greater than dealing with commercially sold cables. I thoroughly enjoyed this video. Keep em coming.

[@laardvarkzilllions7955]

3m makes plastic tape that is similar to electrical tape but not gooey. I always find it pulls off cleanly.

[@danb.9891]

Hey Randy, really enjoyed this video. Several years back I was looking for a rack solution that wouldn't break the bank, and I discovered the 'Pangea' rack. I can verify that assembly is very easy and once together, the rack is very solid. I started with a 4 shelf unit, but easily ordered and added an additional shelf. A little pricey, but not outrageous as other options I was finding. Congrats on the 100k achievement. Keep up the great work. 👍

[@scottyo64]

I have 2 Vulcan X racks. Love them but I bought them back when they were about $50 cheaper

[@gregbartley2475]

I’m NOT an electrical engineer and I don’t play one on tv. However, I did install home theater systems in a previous life. Signal on one side of the rack, power on the other. That was our standard, no exceptions

[@bkstarkey]

Similar here. And, agreed.

[@cheapaudioman]

cool. I didn't want to get people in an uproar about it if it didn't matter but that's how I do it

[@swinde]

Did you, by any chance stay at a Holiday Inn Express at one time?

[@gregbartley2475]

@@swinde yes, more than once

[@EddyTeetree]

As an electrical engineer I can tell you that In my country if you said “ Hi I’m Randy” to a girl you’d get Will Smithed. *Don’t forget to De-Oxidise your connections while you have the cables out. This will give an even better result.

[@erics.4113]

Randy. As your attorney, I advise you to do more of these videos with tips and tricks. And yes, I am also a doctor.

[@johnnyhiett]

Fear an Loathing 🤪

[@cheapaudioman]

Nailed it

[@erics.4113]

@@johnnyhiett thumbs up emojis

[@nc3419]

When your system starts to resemble Vecna in the Upside Down...Randy becomes our Eleven.

[@Andy.Garcia]

Lol, ok Randy, I am an Electronics Engineer AND specialized in electromagnetic compatibility (EMC) and product safety. Your advice is spot on! Keep power and signal lines separate, and cross (if you must) at 90 deg. Your high current drawing electronics, like your amps, should have secure and clean connections at both ends, and same goes for your surge protector. About the surge protector, make sure you purchase one that has both common mode and differential mode protection, which means surge protected across the line/neutral (diff mode), and common (line to ground). Look for one that uses a torroidal transformer on the mains, which can absorb LOTS of energy. These two factors are the most important. In the case of surge protectors, cheap is not good! BUT, separate that from audio quality. What I mean is don’t fall for expensive protection gear that also claims to improve audio. For all intents and purposes, that part is hogwash, except in very rare circumstances. Another time, we can discuss cables and audio quality improvements. Thats a topic that’ll require much more discussions. Great video man, and congratulations on reaching 100k!!!!!!!

[@williamnow146]

Way to go Randy! I was looking forward to having a nice fun day and then I watched your video. Kind of like someone telling me I should go on a diet. “You will look nicer and feel better, etc.” I know that but it’s so hard to actually start this cleanup. Actually, I have a fear that once I start messing with the cords that I will get hum or maybe hook it up wrong. Everything sounds great now. My components are probably 6” off the floor beneath my TV so I have a perfect view of this rat’s nest from my listening chair. I know I should do this but I keep putting it off. Anyhow, another very enjoyable video!

[@phillipmorris9847]

Everything randy just said but recommend doing it with VELCRO if you can, much easier to do and undo and reuse, you can even get various colors to match or color code like i do with my power cables.

[@APinTheAK]

Yessss. Velcro Velcro Velcro. Makes cable management and such a lot less infuriating. I also recommend snagging a P Touch (the electrician/telecom model) Label maker. It has Cable Wrap, Cable Flags, ect. Printing orientation capability and makes things so nice and neat and NOT having to trace cables back and forth and back and forth forever is almost euphoric 🤣 But I also love labeling everything because why not. Lol.

[@jimbroen]

I'm a retired IT guy who worked for decades in infrastructure management. Your suggestions line up quite nicely with computer room best practices. Power goes under the floor and network goes in trays suspended from the ceiling. Cables are sourced to the correct length. I remember participating in a cable clean up in the nineties where things had been managed very poorly for years. Everything was placed under the floor and no one had bothered removing old cables. It was a royal mess. My back hurt for a week and when we were done we had removed a pile of cable at least 50 feet long and a few feet high. Before fibre cabling came along, peripherals such as disk, tape drives or printers were connected using a bundle of copper wires that were over an inch in diameter and the plugs were about five inches by an inch. Velco strips were the standard for bundling loose wires. Much better than tape or zip ties.

[@stevenyoung9]

I use spark plug wire separators (yes,for vehicle engines) on rca cables,cheap,and reusable!

[@kyron42]

I'm an electrical engineer, Randy. I would make the cables a bit longer than needed to give you the flexibility of moving things around if necessary.

[@leolleiten4910]

Technician installer for audio/video company here. Good points and tips Randy, zip ties, Velcro, cable wrapping is the way to go, I try to avoid tape, gets sticky and messy over time. There’s a bunch of different products for different needs, and for cheap. Keep cables short and neat Separate power from signal Make sure to have access Ventilación Labeling That’s a good start! Now.. time to read the comments and see what can I use.

[@leolleiten4910]

Hello Randy, is this for real?

[@alm5693]

I am a retired draftsman and I can recommend the Monoprice Monolith XL equipment stands. Extra beefy and they don't have pointy feet. I've got them in the mocha color. They were about the same price as the Pangea when I bought them. Love the open sides. One issue with them is that they only have four-tier units and don't sell extra shelves separately. I wanted a five shelf unit to get the turntable up higher so I bought two stands and wound up with a five shelf unit (39") plus a three shelf unit (23") that fits nicely under a window. I use the short rack to store cables and accessories in some baskets that I bought at Target. Second issue with the Monoprice stands is they're often out of stock so you have to get on a waiting list which they manage well. I'm a Velcro strap guy for cables. Hate sticky residue. Also a big fan of "Mini Skater 240 Tear Resistant Cord Identification Labels" (search it at Amz). 8 colors, 240 labels, $7.50. Bulletproof.

[@a.j9645]

Cool tip Randy. Love the mix of videos you release now! Never boring👍🇸🇪

[@cheapaudioman]

Thanks 👍

[@TM-fx2pi]

HA ! Funny this video pops up today….. my exact Pangea rack is out for delivery now ! I got the wheels for it. I’m using it for my small man cave system. My main system is separates. A wiring NIGHTMARE 😫. I used the little Velcro strips to manage the cables. I too use Furman power conditioners mostly as a fancy power strip. I plug each one of them into separate circuits in my living room (listening room). Works GREAT. My only problem is my furniture like audio rack is HEAVY and a pain to pull out from the wall when needed. Bought some Salamander wheels I need to mount on it to ease the pain. Great video. Thank you !

[@mddawson1]

Recently I used a Dymo Label Maker to label all the RCA, speaker and power cables (both ends). Makes it so much easier to plug everything back in.

[@kevinbehnke7149]

Great advice. I follow similar practices in my setup. I've broken away from electrical tape since it can leave sticky residue. Now I either use cable ties or velcro straps.

[@fungalgrowth]

Electrical tape residue is awful. Something like masking tape will be much better in a year.

[@ctyragdoll]

Velcro tape for the win. Been using it for years behind my desk (for PCs), and then behind my rack and along cable runs for the audio systems.

[@spamcan9208]

I use cable cuffs everywhere. They're so much less fiddly than Velcro. I still will use those strips in some applications but for the most part I'm slapping cuffs on it.

[@Crokto]

gaff tape is great

[@spamcan9208]

9:16 lmao, those sound effects. I use cable cuffs extensively and 3M stick on cable clips to manage smaller cable runs. I even use them on my nightstand with the added benefit that my charging cable will never be knocked off accidentally and unreachable from bed in the middle of the night. Great job, these types of videos that delve in deeper are very useful.

[@QoraxAudio]

I use cable ties instead; they're called cable ties for a reason. If you don't have any place to tie your cables to, use cable tie mounts that have an adhesive back. If you have measured the cable lengths you need, make cables yourself. Cut them to length and solder/screw the connectos on there. Another benefit of clean cable routing is reduction of interference into your low level phono signal. I mean, ever had a hum coming from your turntable? It might've been hum coming from a power cable instead...

[@ENGLISHISBEST]

Luckily the wife bought some cable ties for her garden today I did a couple on the hifi & before I knew It re-arranged every bit of wiring in the room. If it don't sound better at least it's tidier. I had x3 tacima 6 way & x4 4way extentions in the main lounge. So many gadgets in today's world.

[@stevezeidman7224]

Great stuff, Randy! Love the tips to clean up my own disaster! I’m all in.

[@computerfreakch8912]

Some good thoughts here, though specifically the electrical tape tends to leave sticky residue on cables, so I'd really go for velcro. You could pin velcro stripes at the back of the rack, if you don't want to pin directly to it, attach some wood bars with screws, sticky tape or zip ties and pin velcro to them instead. Should look much better (you can color-match the wood) - and give you the flexibility to redo things later as needed. (Btw. I'm an electronics engineer, and think youcoveredit well.)

[@francescotenti193]

It's true that you learn something every day. I did not know that power cables should not be bundled with RCA or other connecting cables, live and learn. When putting together my modest vinyl corner, soon to be upgraded with a SX780, I could not find a rack suitable to my living room without spending a fortune and so I ended up building my own. Poplar, 1.5"x36" foe the 4 legs and 3/4" birch plywood for the shelves, molding to cover the edges and finished in cherry, really nice and sturdy. 4 shelves, the bottom with enough room to house records. I built another 2, the same way, to store additional records for a total of more than 500 capacity. Simple, nice and cheap, right up my alley! And now to rearrange the wires "the right way"!

[@DIY-valvular]

Hey Randy, I am an electronics engineer and electrician. I suggest that always use 3M electric tape, not cheap chinese versions of that stuff. It last longer, and when you need to take it away, it does no let gummy residues behind. Funny fact, as an electrician I never considered the idea of the "buddy tab". When an electrician put tape on something, it is for ever! Best wishes from Buenos Aires.

[@richardwestmoreland4796]

@ Marcelo Gd,I would have thought that the "buddy tab" was one of the first things aspiring electricians learned.

[@DIY-valvular]

@@richardwestmoreland4796 Well, it's handy when you don't want to miss the beginning of the roll... 🤔😹🤗

[@neilfisher7999]

I'm not an electrical engineer. I used basically the same approach with zip ties at one point. I had one of the Monoprice Monolith racks. I still saw too many cables due to the open rack design. What I wound up doing was going to a wide cabinet that I could spread my components across the top. The storage inside the cabinet is used for CD's and other things. I also attached a large power strip to the back of the cabinet to plug in all the power cables. Then I used shorter RCA cables as you suggested to connect all the components. From the front there are no visible cables of any kind. My speakers set on either side of the cabinet. The other thing I like about this setup is I can easily reach all of my components an unplug or re-plug things in without moving the cabinet. A cabinet may be more expensive than an audio rack, but there are many available online for a couple hundred bucks that look pretty nice. Anyhow. This worked better for me.

[@eaches]

I am a former Electronic Warfare Technician and just like saying that.... Also, the proper legit engineers who have already commented are all absolutely on point and correct. EMI is not your friend.

[@ginom407]

We used spiral cable wrap back when I was a technician. I Wasn't an electrical engineer, but I brought the donuts! Most considered me more valuable...

[@Nordraw]

Labeling everything is a must, a lifesaver even and the proper length cables make everything easy

[@ealanosborne]

Buddy tabs, damnit! Where has this tidbit been all my life?! Thanks, Randy. :)

[@gorditosanchez3059]

I used to work in a studio, we'd get big patch cable bundles snaked in a loom together and they'd all be color coded (we'd label with post it notes and scotch tape). if it was too long we'd just coil a loop until it was right and hide it behind the desk on a screwed in coat hanger hook. i still use the hook trick today with my desktop gear... but i just use the adhesive ones from the hardware section at walmart. Crossing signal and power cables at 90 degrees was always something we did, at one point in time someone sold an actual 90 degree conduit that looked like a highway bridge, it was just unavoidable with dozens and dozens of components surrounding you.

[@ejmentze]

Cable management is deeply therapeutic! Love it!

[@Barry101er]

My fave episode so far! Keep up the good work.

[@scottbaylor6215]

My dad found me some doughnut things on Amazon that you can wrap cables around if they are too long. Good stuff man. Keep up the good work. 👍🏻

[@randybehenna3081]

Well my day just got way better.thanks for your channel

[@dans550]

Ikea has a variety of shelving that can easily be modified and reinforced to build a custom rack, for the DIY folks

[@MommasRecords]

This is the way. I also practice the zen of cable management and vacuuming for that matter.

[@don7294]

I am a brain surgeon and I enjoy the adventure of trying to figure out a ball of twisted wires. Thanks yet again, Randy.

[@cheapaudioman]

That made me chuckle

[@therealboofighter]

Just start pulling. Lol.

[@alm5693]

Do you find a lot of burned-out bulbs in your work?

[@greatpix]

Randy, I’ve been. Furman, and APC, power strip / conditioner fan for a long time. APC had these almost military grade H Series conditioners that saved my system when the power company was working on a line nearby and sent a huge surge through my home, frying almost everything except what was connected to my H-15. You can hear it at work during brown outs too. After many years the LCD display has started to fail. I started using the Furman with my guitar rig after hearing from friends that it made the amp sound better. I think it does. Then during a lul in my playing I tried it out on my system and it stayed there until I found the APC H-15 on sale. As far as sound improvement, I can’t say what it’s doing but I found myself feeling less fatigued when listening.

[@davestryjak6042]

Hi Randy Iam not a electrical engineer but my dad is a TV repair man with a killer set of tools, I'll be sure to ask him about this subject. keep up the good work Randy I watch you all the time.

[@ZZZ_ZZZ_ZZZ_ZZZ_ZZZ]

I should have called you when I wrecked my car.

[@mjstealey9100]

I am an electrical engineer, but it looks like enough EE's have already chimed in backing the idea of separating AC power lines and signal lines so there ya go (DC isn't going to matter). I do however own a Monoprice Monolith XL stand and can vouch for it being a beast of a stand. They often go on sale for $150 or less, so a good option if that's your budget. I also use some rubber/cork sandwich HVAC 2-inch anti-vibration blocks underneath it since it sits on hardwoods flooring. This has definitely helped mitigate against kids and/or dog playing too close to the stand with my turntable on the top level. The blocks were about $0.30 each from a HVAC supply shop, or you can get the "audiophile version" of the same thing for 10x the cost on Amazon... I don't think they were Sith Audio though?

[@johanneswerner1140]

That is a great idea. Also to decouple my bandsaw from the house. I'll get some! Cable management on a fixed living room bookshelf is not fun, you cannot reach behind it, the components are almost as deep as the shelves... But I did roughly the same as Randy suggested. I used some IKEA cable routing organisers from their small parts pack (nails and picture hangers) to tuck the speaker cables to the side and as tie points for other stuff. Still need to hook up some more stuff, mixed feelings about that. (I'm a physicist, minored in EE, did my theses on electronic systems, and I HATE tape, it is nasty and sticky. I have a ton of cheap velcro cable ties, whenever they are on sale I get a pack. I can confirm the separation of signal and power is a must in many cases, as is thinking about ground loops.... [yeah, the HiFi components should take care of that])

[@Megellin]

You got me, other than having all my power cords being ran far away from my signal cables the rest is a total mess.

[@michaeltuohy1249]

The casters for the Vulcan racks are pretty good, too. Just thread them all the way in and don't use the extra "leveling" nuts.

[@jb678901]

After a vintage receiver buying-binge (8 in total---OMG-I ran out of excuses) I needed some shelves to stack the collection. All of my shelves are bookshelf-styled (too shallow and with backing), so that would not work. I started looking and found a set of two shelves on Facebook marketplace (a 5 shelf and 4 shelf pair) for $30 together. Quite nice, with decent enough build to manage the weight load. Wood with veneer for the shelves and solid vinyl extruded posts ( 1.5in^2 that screw together. The posts are robust enough to carry the weight and proved sturdy. For $30 and without any damage, a steal! I guess shelves are one of those things that people tend to dump on the cheap if they are in a moving mode. Heaviest components towards the bottom, of course. Not a fan of electrical tape...leaves residue on cables and can get a bit messy over time. Prefer Velcro...just buy 1/4in velcro from AliEx; it comes in a reel and is about $7 for 5 meters. These Velcro reels come in all colors too, should you want to color code the bundles. Wrap to length and cut...5M is actually a good amount and was enough for me to organize my PC and hifi cables at the office.

[@toecutterjenkins]

I made a rack from bare mdf shelving from HD 4 dollars for a 12x48 shelf. Then the legs are 5/8 threaded rod with nuts to adjust the height. I covered the shelves with bedliner. The whole setup was less that 50 and looks good.

[@Sylvan_dB]

That sounds great! If you don't like the look or feel of the threaded rod legs, head to the plumbing aisles and find some pipe or tubing to slip over. White PVC (can be cleaned or painted) and the flexible sprinkler head tubing are my go to for various sizes.

[@toecutterjenkins]

@@Sylvan_dB yeah looking into black pipe but it's significantly more expensive. I like the look threaded rod but that's personal preference.

[@ENGLISHISBEST]

There's cheap then there's being tight n tacky. Have some respect for hi fi unless it only cost you 100 bucks.

[@danieloconnell695]

I'm an electrical engineer, though I have been doing software for commercial AV since I graduated with both of my EE degrees. In commercial we do it, but honestly we also found a bigger source of noise is you sitting to close to a cable run rubbing your cloth pants on a cloth chair.

[@redstang5150]

I'm not an electrical engineer, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night - If you simply connect all your interconnects and power cords and then spray the back of your rack with spray foam, I find everything stays well connected and insulated.

[@HappyNowCartoons]

I've found those 1' power extension cords (sometimes with multiple cords in an octopus configuration) very useful for all those components with the transformer at the plug.

[@patrickmccrank8414]

Im not an electricaI engineer. I like to use blue or green painters tape. It doesn't leave a sticky residue. Also if you leave a large enough buddy tab, you can use a black sharpy to have a label as well. Plus black sharpy is gonna be readable on blue or green. Electrical tap needs a separate label and leaves sticky gunk on your wires. If the cables are heavy cause thier thick bolster with small white or black zip ties. You can get a pack for next to nothing, so get one white and one black. When trimming or cutting them off use diagonal cutters. Not a knife. Much cleaner, closer and no owies.

[@briansimmons5363]

I made a diy flexi rack, absolutly love it.

[@CultureWars_]

Great video. Thanks.

[@charlierowell9910]

I have the same rack and it works well. I put a cat bed on the top self and all my equipment on the other 4 shelves. I have zero complaints with it. I am also old school and wire lace my cables. Signal on one side and power on the other. I was also a drunken sailor and luckily my job was brow detail so no lines for me.

[@cheapaudioman]

that could be a catastrophic... is this mic on...

[@charlierowell9910]

@@cheapaudioman it has been in the past

[@stevenj2380]

How about metal racks? Many of you might cringe at this, I guess. I am fine with the metal rack I bought in 1983 at Conran's (NY long gone). Metal tubes (two main supports are basically upside down 'U' shape), shelves and on casters. Shelves are plates with punched holes through out and rounded ends to fit over smaller pipe supports. 3 shelves are adjustable for the sets of holes in the thick 2 pipe supports. One shelf in middle more or less, was meant for bookshelf speakers ;2 part tubes go thru on set of openings and have shelf on the 2 sides. Only the plastic casters have taken a beating from the weight. It is satisfactorily stable enough for me for turntable at uppermost shelf.

[@robertallen8841]

I am an Ultrasound Technologist. Twisties!! They’re everywhere, they’re free and reusable. Got a tupperware container full of ‘em. Group your wires, loosely tighten, slide to where you want and tighten.

[@kyron42]

I use vinegar to make it nice and clean again.

[@donpettit7107]

I can out-cheap you on this. I save the plastic clad coffee bean bag closers when the beans are gone. They have a bit of wire in them that holds pretty well, pull right off, and you can use them over and over again. Since Peets coffee now costs like $45/lb…maybe that cost isn’t free.

[@cheapaudioman]

ha. I use twisty ties too

[@arena_rock_man9030]

Ouch! At those prices, it would be cheaper to buy Rhodes Coffee beans by the pound, which IMHO, tastes better than Peets too, especially their turazan Costa Rican blend! That stuff so smooth you don't even need creamer or sugar.

[@NosEL34]

I'm not an engineer nor do I have OCD...my interconnects and power cables resemble a giant broken spider web, I should really tighten it up after watching this video. Truth is, I doubt it will happen today...or tomorrow..or the day after. As my Grammy use to say..God Bless my Mess. Great video though, I bet there is a lot of tidying up going on today 👍

[@gilbertcoronado7103]

Great advice but I'm thinking of changing stuff around just getting a system unit putting it together and letting it sit

[@ncironhorse8367]

I'm an IT Engineer and I don't like using electrical tape. I will use either cable ties or cable clips to keep things organized. I also measure the runs of cable I need for each piece of equipment and I will either find the closest length in a pre-made RCA/Speaker?optical cable OR I will order customer lengths of Canare from Blue Jeans

[@abrslam]

Visible dangling cables are the worst. I started labelling my AV cables and all my networking stuff a few years ago. I can't express how good it is to label things!

[@MrGTI05]

If you make the tab on the roll, after pulling some off, not only will you have the tab for the next segment already made, but you won’t have to search for the end of the roll next time either.

[@jesuscostantino2925]

Dig this one. Great video.

[@10Filip]

Im a mechatronic eng. I had issues with induction, moved to balanced, no issues anymore:) btw for hdmi I think you need to min 2 m, less may cause some funky issues

[@kas4751]

I dont like using tape to group wires together. They leave a nasty sticky residue. Use zip ties!

[@john26262]

Thanks for the video. I have always had a big mess behind my stereo rack and I have always wanted to fix it but I just have never got around to it. Maybe this video will motivate me. One problem I have is when I buy a new component the power cord is usually wrapped up in a small little package and when I open the package the cord is not straight and I have trouble getting it to straighten out. I don't know what the solution to this is exactly. I read somewhere that you should take a hair dryer to the cord and heat it up and straighten it out that way but I don't have a hair dryer. I have short hair and I've never found the need to have one.

[@cheapaudioman]

I’ll hang new cables over a loop and eventually they start to straighten out. If you tape them or tie them to something and force then to be straight they’ll straighten out. But it’s a pain. Especially with thicker cables

[@peterdesmidt8742]

Former home theater installer.....tape and zip ties are a huge pain if you have to redo things.....and most of us do that at some point. I prefer velcro ties or simple twist ties, the kind you get on lot's of stuff for free.

[@keithhudson1248]

Velcro cable management is good, lets you re arrange things before the cable ties come out, speaking as an AV installer who often does not work that way at home. :)

[@Al-mu4ff]

I am not a Electrical engineer but, I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. You indeed need to separate power and signal cables. Best Al, and am a EET….

[@amorylazlo9579]

Insulating tape soon leaves a sticky residue on anything it is applied to, is it really a good idea to be adding stickiness to the cables? Zip Ties - the undoable ones are a better option

[@fredflintstone8048]

My issue with electrical tape, and especially if you get the cheap brands like, for $1 a roll, is that over time the adhesive will transfer from the tape onto your wires and make them all gooey. I've even had this happen over time with the more expensive brands of electrical tape like Scotch 33. If you take the tape off more often than every couple of years you might not have the problem. I prefer tywraps and I use a tywrap tool for tightening and cutting the zip tie so the sharp little edge is not that that manages to cut the backs of your hands is not their (cuts the tywrap with tension so the edge recedes below the surface). The tool makes the job go faster and look better as well because you can set the tension evenly. Tywraps (zip ties) also look nicer than electrical tape imo.

[@EnriqSandoval]

Yes... Tboned on the 95 is LEGIT! Folks, there is just no reviewer out there who can translate real word situations into audiophilia.

[@slickill5738]

Get an entire roll of 2 inch industrial Velcro ( the actual brand). I've found dozens of uses for this stuff. About $25. Stuff sticks better than any tape I've found and is insanely grippy & strong. Best DIY multi-purpose material I've ran into. Also: I find quality reusable Velcro is superior to elec tape( no sticky residue)!. Zip ties are not ideal long term as they can get brittle over time, especially if near heat. Not to mention the possibility of cutting a wire as you typically have to cut a plastic zip tie to remove it.

[@joshhall1398]

I’m not an electrical engineer so good job 👍. Nice episode.

[@eyestick8012]

I wish I could find a 4 shelf audio rack that can accommodate 2 components side by side ( like 48 inches wide) for a home theater set up. Need the top shelf for a center channel speaker. Not sure why it is so hard to find one. Trying to avoid having to get three Pangea racks side by side to get all of my systems components and a center channel to fit under the wall mounted TV. It is a mess back there now with a 5.2.4 set up. Ill try some of your ideas. Thanks, Randy.

[@thegrimmer]

contact strips are way better than industrial strength Velcro. it holds stronger and the sides are reversible so you don't have to worry about which items you put the fuzzy things on and which items you put the hooky things on

[@blujack100]

I’m an electrical engineer and I don’t always label my cables with tape but when I do I use artist tape which doesn’t leave sticky residue..

[@cheapaudioman]

I had spaghetti twice last week.

[@tomkershaw4384]

Hey Randy, I'm a Stationary Engineer so I don't move around a lot. Great video though.. Thanks !!

[@thegrimmer]

zip ties can be undone with a pointy blade and don't leave an adhesive residue like electrical tape

[@dell177]

I'm an engineer who worked for a power supply company for decades. AC power cords have a field around them that is caused by the current going through the power cord so keep power cords away from signal cords and if they have to cross keep the signal wires at 90 degrees so the signal cord gets minimum noise radiated into it. Also try and keep cords from digital devices away from anything else because they are noiser than the old analog equipment.

[@JukeboxAlley]

I am NOT an electrical engineer...but anyway this is a good idea, but let me share this with you you can get smaller zip ties and there's a certain way you loop them and can keep them separated and in line like a harness also, or can just ziptie them the traditional way, probably only a couple dollars also, no residue, but you will have to cut the ties if u change em out regularly.

[@EDCAssociate]

Hey Randy what do you thinks better for sound bar replacement? Smsl ad18 or aiyima D03/D05?

[@carlitomelon4610]

Hans Beekhausen did an excellent series on system hygiene a while back. Good suggestions on shielding and running cables to avoid rf issues . Good practices to lower system noise floor. 🎵🎶🤫🎶🎵

[@jamesminotto8036]

Randy, in my experience using electrical tape has a drawback which is the sticky residue if it stays on too long and gets warm. Your thoughts? I like Velcro tape. Great show

[@CompetentSalesUSA]

Thank you

[@cheapaudioman]

Welcome!

[@grhaggerty]

Does cable make a big difference over bluetooth?

[@shawnm1856]

Did you say the posts or vertical "dowel" parts are sold separately so we can use them and make our own shelves? I don't see them sold separately. Thanks.

[@samuellord8576]

Always use _unlock-able_ zip ties! Randy, just started watching this, I imagine you’ll do fine. But that initial scream you made…. well it sounded like you had made a kind of, uh, transition, if you catch my drift. Turned me on it did. I mean cable management. Who knew that power lines generated E and B fields? Not my physics teacher, who says that all EM phenomena can be explained by the individual charge carriers acting on each other in a big gorgeous superposition of forces. Well as a particle guy he would, wouldn’t he? But fields sure help to illustrate the arcane. P.S. As I screamed earlier, I truly hate the gack that tape puts on cables. I use REUSABLE zip ties for cable bundling, which you never need to cut: they have little tabs on the locks so you just push the tab to unlock. Never cut another zip tie. Jus’ sayin’. And Cheers!

[@bradstone2603]

I run software crossovers and active preamps and monoblocks... That means for my three way fronts, a subwoofer, plus haptics... Source PC, Four DACS, four LPSU's, five Preamps, seven amps, and twelve speaker wire runs. I've considered some kind of shelving, it looks like Bishop from Aliens after the Queen got him.

[@BostonMike68]

I made my own shelf out of a 8 ' by 2' feet of oak veneer.75 " inch plywood he wanted to throw away it was weathered but it worked good I cut to 6' and I just painted it the same color as side and back wall my entertainment center is a accent color dark gray and the other walls are platinum grey it looks awesome. And I built a set of floor speakers with a nice 10 " woofer and a soft dome 1.5 " soft dome tweeter and a two way crossover I bought from Dayton that was already assembled. I'm not ready crossover designs yet . But I'm getting better.75 " plywood and I want to rebuild them maybe add a mid range speaker but I would need new crossovers unless I run it in parallel with the woofer for now. They sound really good the way they are I did it couple of tricks to the boxes that I just made up it adds a little more money but it's worth a take the boom sound off the . Sorry for the rambling rant I just love this stuff.

[@pauljohnson2473]

Thanks!

[@cheapaudioman]

You bet! Paul, you're the best!

[@rjzlwop3153]

I am blind and I really enjoy the lesson at the school of cheap audio Man

[@Randombourg]

While everything is unplugged, may as well clean the components with compressed air, vacuum etc

[@fletchermunson6225]

Back when I had an audio cable company I used a WBT knock off locking RCA plug on some cables. We had a big earthquake and a customer showed me a picture of his amp hanging off his shelf suspended by the locking cables. heh. Maybe some thought to keeping your equipment would be worthwhile if you live in earthquake country. By the way, if you must cross a low level cable with a power cable dont run them in parallel. Try to cross at a 90 degree angle.