Your Target Curve Might Be Wrong

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[@ErinsAudioCorner]

I recently made a KZbin short about flat response in-room vs anechoic and asked if anyone wanted me to expand on the topic in a future video. The response was pretty positive so here we are. I hope you find this informative. I also hope the next time you see someone make the same mistake of thinking they’re the same thing that you can use this video to help them understand why they are not. It’s not just people on forums. I’ve seen many audio influencers/reviewers show this same misunderstanding. There are many caveats to a topic like this, but those caveats are a rare exception. This video is not intended to be a deep dive into the caveats and certainly not intended to make the statement that my discussion is always the case. It is intended to be a 30,000 foot view of the topic. If desired, I can create future videos which will dive into the topic a bit further. For now, this is the jumping off point.

[@Nightjar726]

You mean videos WAY off the mark that drive me nuts like this one? kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGKsma2rfKmeoaM Your video is logic and reasoning to my ears. Pun intended. Literally scientific. That other video drove me nuts. Thanks , so so much for all you do Erin

[@danieljj7717]

I knew there had to be a reason that I hated the sound after I did an Audessey EQ. I immediately disabled Audessey.

[@dreieinhalbeck]

I also had the problem with my speakers and I figured out, that simply listening to a slow frequency sweep and properly equalizing the percieved loudness of all frequencies for each channel individually gave me the best sound quality and clarity. Tried 'flattening' out the response via a meassurement mic and while the mic said that it was good, everything just sounded awful to my ears.

[@danielh12345]

​@dreieinhalbeck1528 I guess that's the perfect way to do it. I'd assume the mic is the perfect way to make it all "flat" or be able to tune it to your profile. The thing is, we listen to the end result with our ears, which are either not perfect or we may not actually like that "perfect" sound.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

@@danielh12345 watch this: m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/sKPThneritmrhq8

[@joes3800]

I knew a lot of these concepts from doing research and watching videos over the years. But this is the best and most concise explanations of all of these concepts that I have ever seen/heard.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Wow! Thanks for that!

[@mysock351C]

Odd that it hasn't been elaborated on as much as each speaker will have its own unique in-room response based on its dispersion pattern, and that really underlines why measurements are essential. You have to have some idea of where it makes the transition to the listening window before applying EQ, especially when subs are involved. Need to know where they need to intersect the main part of the response in order to blend in properly. Being a nearfield user, I had to work this out myself years ago when setting up systems since its much easier to use measurements to build up what the in-room response needs to look like for larger speakers rather than just doing it by ear. If I recall Sean Olive had the rather bland comment of "its because the sound is comprised of both direct sound and reflections" on ASR which wasn't too insightful.

[@Feliciano12v]

Excellent video. I like how you explain objective data and how it correlates to what we hear. Hope to see follow up videos to this.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thanks, will do!

[@avnut5517]

Excellent explanation of what I have been preaching for decades. Thank you. You could also add more on room absorption. Wonderful video.

[@SebastianH88]

You explain things perfectly for me. I had so much information already in my head but didn't really see the full picture, until now. Thank you Erin, much appreciated 😁👍

[@rob21]

It should be noted that this happens to live instruments in any given room too, which is why in-room response is what humans expect to hear. This is also why I enjoy near-field recordings over concert recordings, so I'm not "doubling up" on the room ambience.

[@MrRocktuga]

Great explanation, and I love what you’ve been doing for audio enthusiasts. I would only say what I also believe to be correlated with what Dr. Floyd Toole called “the circle of confusion”. In theory, if all recordings started (many decades ago) with speakers/monitors that measured flat in room, all the mixing, EQ and even microphone placement/response would have to be tailored to sound good with that response. But that’s not how it started, and it would be a lot harder on the earlier recording equipments to deal with that added bass (that would be necessary to sound good and balanced with a flat in-room response. In any case, it’s too late to change how it all started so many decades ago, and making a loudspeaker to sound flat on most rooms (and even studios) would be a moving target, and the anechoic measurements should be more consistent. That being said, it’s still a moving target, as most recordings were made on very unique playback systems (mainly loudspeakers and studio acoustics), and most well known studio monitor manufacturers were clear on measuring how much different the same monitor model sounded on different studios (that is often the base for advertising how much their room correction features will help on trying to level things out, but the fact remains). It’s also not uncommon for loudspeakers that are considered a “reference” on some studios (like Abbey Road and B&W 800) failing to be flat even in anechoic measurements (even in the mid/high frequencies), which doesn’t stop them for being widely used for mastering. The same can be said about the famous “BBC dip” deliberate response, that we can agree or disagree to be a good or bad thing, but it would be hard to ignore that we’re the reference used to mix many recordings over decades. IMHO, an anechoic flat speaker with controles off-axis response does have the _potential_ of sounding best with different recordings, but not necessarily with all of them, and this goes back to the “circle of confusion”…! If a mastering engineer used monitors with the “BBC dip” in the most sensitive audio range for vocals and “presence”, either he was able to compensate for it with the accumulated experience (which definitely was the case for some of the greatest), or playing it back on a flatter loudspeaker response in the range would end up like a “BBC peak”. 🙂 Most subjective audio reviewers used a wide range of recordings to “evaluate” loudspeakers, often introducing even more inconsistencies (how can you compare two loudspeakers with two different recordings?). But even if any reviewer chooses to listen the same predefined tracks for loudspeaker evaluation, the question still remains: - Why does he/she use those particular tracks, and not others, that would sound worse on flatter anechoic loudspeakers (but maybe better with less balanced speakers, maybe closer to the ones that the record was mixed/mastered with? 😉 I’ve been in the audio business for some decades now, and I made several audio demos, and was the listener of many others. Making any good audio demo implies taking the time to try what tracks make the loudspeaker shine, and a particular loudspeaker will usually have some specific tracks in order to accomplish it (sometimes it can change depending on the room’s acoustics). While that may seem like a biased way of making a demo (and it certainly is in some ways), what happens if the prospective buyer happens to listen that kind of music and recordings? There are certainly very audible cues on music genres (hard-rock or heavy metal tend to have less bass than jazz or hip-hop, pop vocals are mixed in a different way on every decade, etc), which makes a challenge for any loudspeaker (or headphones) to sound great across such a wide range of sonic signatures in the recording itself. This is one of the reasons that makes me believe that removing even the most basic tone controls on amplifiers was far from smart, with audiophiles believing that they would be closer to the original recording by avoiding the circuit (and ignoring how much “EQ” any loudspeaker and room will end up introducing on the sound that reach their ears)! Maybe that’s the reason why loudspeakers always fascinated me the most on any audio playback system, since they all end up introducing their own sound signature, and while some recordings may sound their best with a particular loudspeaker, other recordings will sound best with a different loudspeaker (within reasonably well behaved loudspeakers). Let me reinforce how much I value objective data, and trying to understand the correlation between measurements and what I can hear. I’d say that actual anechoic measurements are the only reference point that doesn’t change, since once we put the loudspeaker in a a room, it can work with or against it, and no reviewer is going to listen to a loudspeaker inside an anechoic chamber for a subjective review (and it would be worthless if they did). But in the end, and like you said, measurements are useful for making some baseline comparisons that may be helpful at selecting an comparing loudspeakers, but we still need to listen to them in our rooms, and with the music that we consider as good reference points for the music we listen the most. In the end, finding the “right” loudspeaker for us (and the our room) is still a moving target for several reasons, and until now, the best compromise that I could get is to have more than one system (with different loudspeakers) around the house, because some records make me want more rolled of highs (it sounds more “comfortable” on longer listening sessions, while other records will sound more exciting and interesting with more highs (giving them a sense of a lot more detail). Measurements are the only objective way of comparing loudspeakers against a fixed reference, and that’s huge. S But loudspeakers are simultaneously the less complex equipment on most audio playback chain (from an electronics perspective), but also the most complex “device” to make it work with every room and musical preferences. There are so many different amplifiers that sound pretty much identical, but it’s virtually impossible to make to different loudspeaker designs that sound nearly as identical between them. And I’m not sure that it is ever going to change, just like the same orchestra will never sound same on different concert halls. 🙂 I don’t have nearly the same passion for amplifiers (let alone dacs), probably because if an amplifier or dac makes such a significant difference as two different loudspeakers, one of the amplifiers need to have a terrible design or fault (aside from power, if we push them outside their limits).

[@Saturn2888]

Thanks for making this video after that short!

[@MiDnYTe25]

I love these kinds of educational videos, keep em coming

[@JohnAudioTech]

Great explanation of room response. I recall when taking speakers outside for a party and the bass response was so thin. I can see why pro audio uses many large bass cabinets and a lot of power.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

That’s a good point as well.

[@sethfm9773]

Great video! Thank you for making this.

[@TheReverendSlim]

Good stuff, Erin, and a subject that greatly needed to be addressed.

[@Jimsathome]

Thanks for the video. Most folks need this education.

[@balasubramanianv2406]

Very good video Erin. Thank you. 😊

[@EduardsPutra]

Great explanation! The visual representation made it easier to understand. Deserves more subs, for sure.

[@jameskirk796]

I take Erin's advice, and it always helps me with my room sound. Much appreciated 👍

[@boydrijkvan6500]

Thanks for this great video & all the work you do / all the data you share👍

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

My pleasure!

[@MrBonger88]

Always great explanations. Thank you

[@davefulton1]

Excellent, more of this please.

[@toneslotohnz4540]

Great video! Thanks!

[@whitecrowuk575]

Flat response is in relation to input signal at x dB across entire frequency spectrum. The music we play it’s not linear so we won’t hear flat sound because you have calibrated speaker to have flat response in your room - for specific sound level. True under 500 is critical where the room dictates the sound but it doesn’t mean if you calibrate rest of the spectrum, then it will sound dull. It can correct unwanted peaks, fill in small dips. DL does it well, Audessey has tendency of sucking life out of sound because it does a poor job at determining room interaction and applying correct filter.

[@troyesposito9909]

Thanks for the explanation, that was really informative and helpful

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Glad it was helpful!

[@keepingupwiththejones2933]

Looking clean and fresh my man. There are definitely speakers we should avoid. The room and speaker combination matters.

[@imz14u2nv]

Great Video Erin!!! These are the types of videos that Make it All make Sense. I love these, Even and Old Dog like me can learn something, Keep up the Great Work!!

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Glad it was helpful!

[@rondickinson8741]

That's the best I've ever had soundwaves explain to me what's going on in a room it's and it's really helped me a bunch thank you

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Great to hear!

[@steverosales2616]

Thank you Erin! 🎉 I understand now 🧠

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Excellent!

[@EricCalabros]

Can't believe your channel is free.

[@crazydwarfer]

Awesome video

[@martindc83]

Excelente video 👍

[@Fix_It_Again_Tony]

Great stuff, Erin. I'd love to see you do more videos on in room response and how to manipulate it using speaker placement. Luckily nulls typically occur at bass frequencies so subwoofer placement can help break up the room modes that form at those frequencies. Instead of have a single radiator or a set of radiators (two tower speakers) at one end of the room, you can spread the radiators out within the room and this is what helps break up the low frequency room modes. This is why multiple subs are sometimes used. This is what seems to work pretty well for me: I have a null at 100 Hz. When I only had tower speakers it was very noticeable. The tower speakers are at one end of the room, a few feet from the wall and the listening position is on the couch at the other end of the room, a few feet off the back wall. These positions are not ideal, but this is the real world. In order to help reproduce low frequencies better and to help break up room modes I bought a sub. In my 2.1 setup the tower speakers are still in front of me, but the sub is on the left side wall about 1/4 of the room length from the rear wall. I set my crossover frequency to 100 Hz (the -3dB point of the filter). At 100 Hz half of the signal amplitude goes to the towers and half to the sub so the same modes that would occur if I only had towers are broken up a bit by the sub because all three speakers are interacting at 100 Hz. If I move the sub forward and back along the side wall I am pretty sure I could tune the speaker system and the room to reduce the null, but in the real world there are constraints like the position of my fireplace and my wife's aesthetic preferences. Adding a second sub could also help, but I think my next investment is going to be a DSP like the miniDSP Flex. This will help tame some non-linearities I have in the frequency response of my system. My AVR has a limited equalizer and I can't set the frequencies or the Q of the filters. I don't really notice the null any more.

[@HelloHeLL1000]

Now you've said it all. The various speakers I've had in my room always measure more or less the same in my room. Instead of spending money on speakers, spend it on the room.

[@adamlucas3134]

Thanks Erin.. Only been watching for month or so.. I've learned so much. You have a great way of explaining things in my opinion..I understand and realise I'd like to learn alot more.. My budget is more a diy build.. My sound space/living room/kitchen Annex is relatively small. And long. I'm aiming to build a great home theatre.. /hi fi stereo.. My listening is about 50/50.keep hearing that I have to make better half happy while still treating the very reflective room.. Love your vids... Thanks..

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

I'm so glad!

[@richardbixler]

What a great explanation! I tried explaining this on another channels comment section. You did a much better job! Btw your objective scientific approach is very much needed, I wish you as much success as possible you deserve it. The work you put in is much more valuable than the sea of subjective feelings they have about audio equipment.

[@nicoras8803]

Science should be objective, theories are subjective until proven.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Awesome, thank you!

[@stephenyoud6125]

Great explanation Erin. I’d very much like it if you were to get together with Danny Richie and give feedback on his system and what he does, as Jay of Jay’s Iyagi and Chris from Vinyl Attack have done. I find your videos very informative and find they complement what I’m learning from Danny’s videos very well.

[@danthegeetarman]

Great video!

[@hometheaterjoe9489]

Damn I love your work. Great video my friend

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thank you.

[@davidristic3800]

Not sure why you don't have more subscribers....excellent videos.

[@steevegilbert7673]

Wow! Very good informative video. You explained it in a way that even a child would understand. I now understand why Audioholics recommends the 500 hz room correction. Looking forward to more videos like this on some of the technical side of home audio. 👍🏽

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Glad it was helpful!

[@midevil1980]

Great video! 🍻

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thanks! 👍

[@-elijahriggs-]

This is awesome. This is useful.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Glad to hear that!

[@thomaslutro5560]

Super explanation, Erin. You could probably do a part two regarding absorption in typical listening environments which make this anechoic to in room difference even bigger. And for good measure what it takes for anyone trying to manipulate/improve acoustics in the bass....

[@lionmqj]

Yes I would love if you made a part 2 explaining sound absorption and how it works. Also, if audyssey, YPAO etc with sound absorption is better or turning audyssey, YPAO etc off with sound absorption is still better .

[@chinmeysway]

There’s a great you toober on acoustics. Yesco. German guy.. sorry I cannot think of exact Chanel name. Even then it’s pretty nebulous feeling how to treat fir lower frequencies.

[@thomaslutro5560]

@@chinmeysway He's good. He writes his name Jesco, and the name of his channel is Acoustics insider. He does, however focus on studio design, rather than home audio, and for the most part on nearfield listening. If you go his way, you will arrive at a very dry representation, very fra from what Erin would prefer. But yes, Jesco appears to be very competent. And I believe that he'll have a bunch of things to teach even to those preferring a more wet/reverberant reproduction.

[@gupeace88]

You are by far number 1!

[@_kicaBo_]

Thank you.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

You're welcome!

[@deankim6687]

Great video

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thanks!

[@brianknox3778]

Thanks!

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thank you!

[@terenceyow]

Thanks. Very helpful. It’s always a bit challenging for non techie home audiophiles like me to sort out home audio acoustic treatments and EQing. A lot of trial and error and frustration. But it is so satisfying on those not so often occasions when I do finally get it right. Or do my ears tell me.

[@nicoras8803]

If your ears don't enjoy what you hear, then no matter what "acoustic treatment"or EQ you apply, or whether your system is hyper expensive, you have actually wasted your money. 🤥🤥

[@terenceyow]

@@nicoras8803 so the question is do we trust our ears or can our ears be trained to listen better?

[@chinmeysway]

Also needed is survey of how companies test for sensitivity rating: is it in a room/ room size, is it outside, is it anechoic, do they round up to much regarding room gain etc etc

[@Nickceid]

Excellent video Erin!! Keep up the good work!

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thank you so much!!

[@nekomancer350]

What about near field response? For example, various near field speakers that measure flat on axis will measure almost completely flat in a room measurement taken at 1m distance.

[@juanmillaruelo7647]

Yeah, nearfield is a different universe. But anybody away from the LP will have a very suboptimal experience. ;-)

[@kewlbug]

More like these!

[@briandunn957]

Great video! Makes total sense, big a-ha moment here.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Eric-xx3mb]

Thank you for your awesome video. How much roll off or taper (in dB) should a great speaker produce when you do an FIR graph with REW? If an FIR graph shows the speakers are too bright can you use EQ to roll the highs off more? I know you say not to boost the lows, but what if when doing so you get lucky REW is showing a better response curve? In that case is it OK or still never boost the lows? Thank you for your knowledge!

[@stevegrise1571]

GREAT explanation ! Erin you are the man !

[@antoniomarsicola8608]

Fantastic video! And what about speakers with cardioid directivity?

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thanks! I may try to cover that in a future video.

[@zefrog7482]

Great stuff, best way I've ever seen it explained, should really be useful for people new to the hobby.

[@Fix_It_Again_Tony]

I think that is where Erin really shines. He can explain things to the lay person in a way they can understand. I like to watch Amir as well, but I have an engineering degree. His explanations can get a bit technical.

[@johnwet6969]

Thanks for explanation. 👍 I would like to see some video about SBIR and frequency gain and impact of speaker position on sound quality. For example to take some common 6,5" two way bookshelf on common stands (+/-25" high) in common small room (around 200 - 300 sqft) and change their position in relation to the wall. How the response will be at 15", 20", 25", 30", 40", 50" from the wall. + subjective listening test of the space perception, muddiness, bass boost, etc... It should be very helpful too.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Great suggestion! I will definitely put that on my to-do list.

[@johnwet6969]

@@ErinsAudioCornerhank you for your response Erin. This is never ending debate and every other “specialist” gives us his own receipt for it. One says that speaker has to be as far from the wall as possible. Another one says that speaker has to be as close as possible 😅 (for example Genelec professional). Another says 1/5 of the room size (Dynaudio) another says minimum 2-3 feet, etc. but little of them are talking about SBIR and worst cases like 1/2 or 1/4 of the room size. And also same distance from the front wall, side wall and floor as well. Imagine a bookshelf put 3 feet from all 3 “walls/floor”. Imagine those peaks and nulls when small bookshelves are playing omnidirectional up to 300-500 Hz. I think that we should avoid the same distance from all 3 “walls/floor” and try to get under 2 feet from the front wall, under 3 feet from the floor and more than 4 feet from the side wall if it’s possible. I prefer thick foam 8” panel behind the speaker and connectors touching this foam panel. SBIR moves to the higher frequencies and they can be more easily sucked into the foam panel. But maybe I’m wrong. I would like to know what do you think about this. Will wait for your test results of this topic. Best regards.

[@smo7089]

Great video, glad you're back. I bought the IN-5 thanks in part to your reviews! I'd love a video where you'd explain how to do proper room eq (and what not to do). Thanks for the videos.

[@BuffSquadBigBenni]

This is the knowledge people need. Great video!

[@JerryRutten]

I like this kind of videos, where you dive into the matter! One remark. You said that with an omnidirectional speaker the anechoic response and the in room response are the same. In my opinion omnidirectional speakers don’t exist. The speakers that claim to be omnidirectional are only “omni” in the horizontal surface, not in every (omni!) direction!

[@budroe4057]

So, my last post referred mainly to high fidelity, 2 channel rooms...whic is hard enough to treat to flat response. Most here are HT/AV, but with so much more LF and with multiple speakers, a flat room EQ is even more challenging, and more expensive, and theaters are usually small rooms, less than 30 x 20. However, the same general methodology applies as in higher end 2 channel listening rooms.

[@brucermarino]

Excellent video in content and explanation! Appreciate you...

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thank you.

[@krihanek117]

Thank you. This is something I needed to hear.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Glad it was helpful!

[@pcollenyt3683]

I have an old (1982) set of JBL L96 speakers that sound exceptional in every room I've had them in over the past 41 years.

[@amankarwa1305]

Thank you for the explanation. Just to clarify, the measurement of decibels should be A, C or Z weighted? I would assume based on the logic you presented , that the measurements should be with a more neutral weighting such as Z or C?

[@hafgrim.]

Meh, I prefer the bass to be flat. Even a 2 db lift can make the bass distracting and call too much attention to the subs. I'm in a very well treated room, so accuracy in the frequency response is very important. If the room is under treated and accuracy isn't the goal, then i suspect a bloated bass would probably sound better to most.

[@mikerenna4027]

Some other KZbin channels (won't mention any names) show in room measurements of the speaker they are reviewing and talk about how "flat" it is and don't mention anything about this. I just shake my head...

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Use this video to help inform them of their misunderstanding. Hopefully they’ll take time to digest it.

[@billd9667]

Yup. My NAD includes Dirac Live below 200Hz. If you set it up and leave it “flat”, it sounds awful. Dirac experts recommend boosting the bass by about 6dB and saving it as “normal” for this very reason. “Flat” would be +3dB. My Yamaha stereo receiver uses YPAO and I use its loudness compensation with no reservations. I also boost the bass by about 2dB. “Audiophiles” are nuts. They will buy a preamp or amp with no EQ option and then try speaker after speaker until it sounds right. Huzzah for tone controls and room EQ!

[@rookiestereophilemikej5508]

This makes alot of sense... my dad is having an issue with low frequencies in his room (it's a dedicated room) he was told he should deaden the room with panels and pictures on the walls... is it possible the room is too dead and that's why there's an issue with thin sounding bass? Speakers are KEF R11 towers with (2) 12" subwoofers The room is 15X18

[@NeilBlanchard]

Erin - I have to say this is the best video of yours that I have seen! Excellent coverage of a complex subject. I wish you might have added a *bit* more about *why* drivers become directional - as the wavelength gets shorter and shorter, and approaches the width of the driver - it becomes more and more directional. I.E. it gets narrower the higher the frequency; and becomes a "beam" when the wavelength is smaller than the driver. I like the ripple tank illustration. As complex as it is - a room is obviously 3D - and so the wave patterns are *even more complex*.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

I did and I had graphs. But I edited that out because I really wanted to keep this at a high level. I know if I get into the weeds then that may push the casual watcher away. My main point is for the viewer to understand that flat isn’t always flat. I’ll likely make some follow up videos to this, though, and will talk about those aspects, referencing this video as the jump-off point.

[@Feliciano12v]

@@ErinsAudioCorner please do.

[@jasonc331]

@@ErinsAudioCorner Neil Blanchard , you should send him your speaker that you have designed. Would love to see what the Klipple says.

[@bojangles_bonjangles8000]

Excellent explanation. When you mention about build up and reflection of bass and high frequencies because of room acoutics, do additional speakers in the room ex. multiple subwoofers or multiple speakers increase the build up? Or change the dynamics of the room?

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

They do. But whether it’s good or bad depends on placement. Check this out: www.harman.com/documents/multsubs_0.pdf

[@giangpham6348]

I have to watch this video 3 times to understand 😢

[@eshop777]

A good video, as always. However, it would have been nice to see an example of what you consider a good in-room response for a set of speakers.

[@lsaideOK]

Terrific video! Very clear and concise.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thank you!

[@kschulwitz]

Great video! Dumb question: Is the front wall behind me or behind the speakers? I think different reviewers might be referring to the front wall as the wall directly behind the speakers. Ex."I set up the speakers pulled out 3 feet from the front wall.", while review measurements refer to front/rear wall reflections. THANKS!

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

It’s super confusing, I know. So.. In the SPINORAMA data the reference is the speaker. So “front wall” is the wall in front of the speaker. Which winds up being the wall behind the listener. For my sake, I wish it wasn’t labeled the way it is but I understand why. It’s just awkward to talk about the speakers front/rear wall vs the listener’s. 😂

[@howardskeivys4184]

I’ve always maintained that getting the right speakers, backed up by the right amplification and right source equipment, negates the need for any electronic eq software and drastically reduces the effectiveness of acoustic treatment. A well respected and knowledgeable KZbin hifi reviewer, recently substantially upgraded his main rig. He commented that with his previous rig, eq software constituted an over all improvement in performance. With the new rig, electronic room correction was ineffective. This speaks volumes and validates my own experiences. I have spent 35 years of sweat and tears, trial and error, not listening to good advice and acting on bad advice, plus spending copious quantities of hard earned money, building a hifi system that reproduces music, the way I like to hear it. I don’t employ any eq or electronic room correction. I use multiple subs to evenly distribute the bass. I don’t feel I have the need for defusers or absorbers. My listening room is also our family room and has sufficient soft furnishings so as the room is not overly live or bright and the RT60 is well within acceptable limits. That was an excellent video. You’ve just bagged yourself another subscriber.

[@nicoras8803]

Good thing that most decent amps has bass and treble controls. Now you know what they are for. We knew this in the 1960s, then everyone forgot what good equipment can do and sound like. In the last two decades, designers spent less money on the R&D electronics and more money on the aesthetics with gold plates sockets and included as much weight as they can to give the appearance to be better and sleeker and of course much more expensive. Those days, I remember a top system (as described in Hi-Fi News) Includes a turn table, Like Linn Sondek, Thorens Rega, Pink Triangle, top-end cartage, like Kutsu Black, Dynavector Carat Ruby. Lin ASAK, Shure V15, etc. excellent tone arm such as the SME, Linn Itok, set of three-way floor standing speakers'such as the KEF, Rogers, Spendor, B&W, Cellestion, Richard Allen, etc, the best amplifier money could buy, including makes such as Pioneer, Sansui, Sugden, NIAM. Kenwood, McIntosch, Marantz, Luxman, etc. all for the mighty sum of 1000 British Pounds. Now is a good time to donate that new amp, micro sized 4 inch speakers, streamer and DAC that you bought to the salvation army and get yourself something vintage from the 70's or early 80s and really start to enjoy what we had access to in the days past. Nowadays, you get a single knob, including a plastic remote control, pint sized speakers and power bricks, all sounding like crap but costs more than a half decent house, only to be compelled to upgrade each for something with a smaller driver, bigger knob or LCD each time a neighbour buys something more expensive.

[@RCASRS]

Great video for us non-experts, would love more videos like this

[@5wavesup]

Shot in the dark here. I am a proud owner of the Phil BMRs and I will be for as long as I listen to music....However, I am considering a pair of Wharfedale Linton's for those days I want to listen to harsher recordings/garage rock/thrash/punk and the like LOUD. Since you are one of the very few that reviewed both, I thought I would reach out to get your opinion. Have I fallen into some sort of audiophile grass is greener syndrome or are these two speakers a perfect combo?

[@chinmeysway]

Companies must mostly measure things in non anechoic rooms I’d assume though so it’s all really non conclusive. Any guidance on that would be lovely. Are there any stats on how many companies / which ones measure at all of anechoically?

[@naturalverities]

Great video. Leaving reflections out for the moment, would it be valid to imagine a direct bass wave falling off quickly on its way to the listening position while a direct treble wave falls off less quickly because a greater proportion of its energy output is directed at the listener? If so, I think that would be a good argument for a bass horn with a large mouth to make the bass more directional. Or alternately a huge woofer or woofer array.

[@mysock351C]

Yes there definitely is, but in a room its a little more complicated than that since much of the bass propagates modally. It doesn't so much fall off faster per se, but rather the speaker is just providing acoustic excitation to the room since the space is quite small, whereupon the various modes determine how it propagates to the listening position, with the usual peaks and nulls that occur. The usual ways to handle optimization are to either run two subwoofers which allows you to optimize how the room modes are excited, or by running a speaker with a cardioid pattern which will lessen how much the speaker interacts with the portion of the room that is to the sides and rear. An example would be the Kii Audio Three speakers, which maintain controlled directivity down to about 100 Hz. This means that even below the transition frequency of the room the listening window is still maintained to a degree as well, which can aid in how the speakers image. In keeping with the video's theme, the caveat to this is that you will need to have a good idea of what the speakers radiation pattern is before attempting EQ. With something like the Kii Three, the usual "-1 dB/Octave" in-room response wont really apply. For the most part, it will indeed measure (or should measure) pretty flat in-room due to its very good directivity control. The good news is that you won't have to do much besides nock down some of the bass modes to clean it up since its response is very good to begin with. The really bad news is that speakers like this are usually stupidly expensive. They would set you back something like $14k USD. Better might be to just buy an extra sub to help optimize the room instead 😉

[@naturalverities]

@@mysock351C Thanks for the detailed and well informed response.

[@luislunacortez1929]

Hi Erin , how do you know when we can equalize a speaker and what are the frequencies that can be adjusted using inclusive parametric equalizer. As i understand from one of your videos frequencies below 200hz could be adjustable but I think the mid high and high frequencies when you adjust these we can change the tone characteristics of the sound . When the room correction systems as Dirac an others can be applicable without changing drastically the tonal quality of the recording . To me we have to start with room treatment that in many cases could solve the problem for mid and high frequencies and use the equalization to correct the room node modes. The correction room systems works in all the cases or have certain limitations. I see some reviewers using pro DSP parametric equalizers to solve room problems but this i think does not solve all the problems Thanks for your response

[@wheelbasemedia5814]

Immensely helpful information, thank you!

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Very welcome!

[@AlexandreLollini]

Reducing the peaks and leaving the dips alone is a good advice : the peaks can be anything (even not speaker, it can be something vibrating in the room) I got my best results by just putting pink noise, and insuring I get the bottom note around 85db, then I eq the peaks down and insure I have a nice slope to 16-20 khz, usually there I am between 77 and 80 db (on tweeter axis V pointed at the mic) . So the fight is more with room modes and objects and glass and eventually some issues with the speakers, but mostly room. And to do the eq well you need everything playiong : both speakers and the sub. Because eq changes if you cut any of them. Eq changes also if you move the crossover. Eq then and get a dip or a peak elsewhere. That's a living room, not a lab.

[@dharminderkalsi2311]

Excellent video!!! I struggle to explain the same to people - I’m just gonna point them to your video from now on 😊. I was gonna add that maybe it’s worth pointing out that higher frequencies are more easily absorbed (e.g., sofa, carpet, curtains, etc) then low bass, and are less likely to “build-up”/“reflected back” - and thus further contributing to the overall downward in-room response tilt.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Glad it was helpful!

[@imwhatsnew]

Nicely done :)

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thanks!

[@megaapfel]

I still don't really understand why a speaker that measures flat in my room is sounding anemic. I mean it shouldn't really matter why they measure flat as long as they do so, right?

[@Mishael_Agyei-Boamah]

Well the science which has been extensive and been done in countless iterations for the past 40 years by Dr Floyd O'Toole, Dr. Sean Olive and many others say, flat in room is a no no

[@bhsham]

So, is it right to say that use of acoustic panels and bass traps is useful in that they address stacking of LF, but one needs to be wary of EQ-ing the sound to get a flat in-room response?

[@msoles30]

So the next video suggestion is to show us how to eq to a target curve and not to over due the eq process

[@MissionFreiheit]

New hairstyle looks great, buddy 😎👍 thank you for the informative video

[@Bork0r]

Fantastic video!

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Thank you very much!

[@tommcclure8727]

Outstanding discussion.

[@Anikom15Live]

What if the measured response is sloping upward (no EQ)? Does that mean the response is nearfield dominant? Would you EQ the treble down at that point?

[@KravchenkoAudioPerth]

👍 Mark

[@318ishonk]

Thanks for the video Erin! I think it's helpful to mention that the studies about what frequency response the average (! not every!) person likes best were done in a specific listening room with its own acustics that the average listener in that study might not have at home. Thus the variety of responses on what speaker sounded better to them might have been much broader if each listener had tested them in their own home (now THAT would have been interesting). Good to have some modern active speakers these days (like from Buchardt Audio) where you can actually change the speaker's sound signature depending on your mood, room acoustic, personal preferences and the individual recording you're listening to. 👍

[@nekomancer350]

So I understand that direct sound being flat above transition frequency is most important. The angle comes from early reflections and sound power, not direct sound being altered?

[@rrchannel2464]

Pls review Mission LX-2 MK II...

[@MrMarcin4500]

Can you Review Magnat lcr 100-thx pls

[@jeromelester8]

Awesome, thanks! 👍

[@Dasbeerboots]

Hey, Erin. Great video. I always see the people in videos saying that we want a downward sloping FR, but I've never seen anyone explain why.

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

Awesome!

[@Saturn2888]

I'd like more info. Dirac has 2 versions where you can get the 500Hz and below or the full-range. Are you recommending just doing 500Hz and below? Is it okay to room-EQ sounds above that range so long as I adjust the curve to match the slope Harmon uses?

[@robertkelly760]

also interested, as i will have used a minidsp and ypao to achieve some form of flat on an AVR

[@ErinsAudioCorner]

If you have a well-designed speaker it is generally not advised to run calibration above the room’s transition frequency. If you have some response anomalies I would advise setting your target curve to the trend line of the speaker’s in-room response rather than using a generic curve because that curve may not match the speaker’s natural response. Again, though, this really has more to do with the speaker’s anechoic response and directivity. Hope that makes sense.

[@Saturn2888]

@@ErinsAudioCorner What would you consider a well-designed speaker? At what price tier would I see that? All I have are Polk Reserves. If I "Room EQ" over 500Hz, what would I expect to hear? I have two Dirac Live calibrations like this on my Marantz AV 10. I'd like to know what to listen for.

[@msoles30]

What is a speaker trend line

[@sebastianj9153]

Great Video! Some visual graph's would be nice for examples. You rock the scene