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Zabar's is not a building that really stands out, perhaps the mock Tudor looks a bit odd on 81st and Broadway but that's about it. Yet any self-respecting New Yorker knows it and has shopped there. And, I'll bet, not one would change a single heaving shelf of its homely decor. And what other shop would have a sign dedicated to a long dead employee that reads "Sam's Corner"? In an age when huge conglomerates try to hoodwink us into believing they are just at heart a family concern, Zabar's is the real thing, an unalloyed joy and a hymn to great food.