BMW E92 335i N54 Mfactory Axles Upgrade: FIRST LOOK!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Please go and give shanes page a like and if you can comment on a pic telling him to make the e9x stuff. He loves the old BMW stuff, but he's missing out. :P facebook.com/hillsidemotorsport

[@davidpenton1979]

Post made

[@sky335i2]

I would be very interested in you waiting for the diff brace. In the future u should put a m3 diff and do the conversion in the 335i. I want to do that to my car just can’t find more results online. Please consider doing that!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

@@sky335i2 from everything i have read online, the M3 rear end if the way to go. If you are pushing big power, like 700whp a M3 rear end with upgraded diff centre is the best option. The reason i didnt go M3 rear end, is becuase people want 5k for a m3 rear end here, which is just too much.

[@TheRealToybox]

When I was a kid I used to flick on cartoons before school. Now I flick on 0-60 before work 🤣

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

hahaha. Can relate to that one!!

[@holeshot895]

5w40 is sufficient. I run this viscosity in my track car with ambient temps usually around 28-34 celcius on track., I use Amsoil but any quality oil will be fine. A suggestion if you haven't done it yet, is to cap or remove the coolant lines from the trans cooler, this will help your oil temps stay down. Love to see the car at some lapping events. Keep up the great work!

[@Logan-ml2dt]

I'd say fit the diff brace with stock axles since most people are running stock axles

[@TheRealToybox]

I was thinking the same thing!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

That was my train of thought. I didn't want people think they need upgraded axles when the diff brace does actually help a lot.

[@stevel1973]

Fit your M Factory shafts and send it. Then fit the new brace and send it some more.

[@maxmoughal5183]

Glad to see they finally came in, do the science bit and put the diff brace in first, then the axles, that why we love this channel because we learn as we go and you take us along for the ride :)

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Right on

[@glennarnold3970]

andrew the hollow axles will only twist under load a fraction before snapping as the steel is not treated the same way as a solid axle is where the slightly smaller solid axle will act like a torsion spring and will take a lot more of a beating before snapping a good example is when you go to get a tyre changed when they tighten up your wheel nuts the socket extension is machined thin this gives it a torsion effect so they dont snap wheel studs or over tighten them hollow is good if you can afford carbon fibre axles but i would take the skinnier ones every time over the hollow ones no matter how fat they are you know there is only one way to know 0-60 at warp 10

[@sky335i2]

I use full synthetic castrol 5w-40 works amazing always Change oil ever 5000km. Have never ran into issues

[@dbnpoldermans4120]

What makes a mediocre day become a great day? A N54 related 0 to 60 video!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Well thats good to hear. Not that you have had a mediocre day, but that we changed that. Thanks for your support man, i know you have been here in the comments section for over 12 months now. Appreciate it.

[@Bama_Law]

Use pen-rite! Being from the USA, I don't get penrite but I know it's a full syn oil PAO/ESTER bylooking@ pour points alone. As for viscosity grades you golden being you’re in NSW w/ ANY 5w oil. So I’d stay with 5w50 and get analysis mainly for viscosity. Here we used Blackstone labs usually ad they can Tell you if your bearings are going.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Thanks for the input man, do appreciate the info.

[@Dob3r]

Hey Andrew, I can recommend Motul 300V Power 5W40. It's a pretty tough oil that came highly recommended form a GTR tuner in Sweden. He's been right on the money.

[@DefaultLoginDetaiIs]

Time for a bigger intercooler. Take a look at the CSF one, I went from the standard AliExpress tube and fin intercooler to the CSF bar and plate one and it makes a huge difference. Also that paintwork looks amazing!

[@lukeviewservice]

Was the Ali express better than the stock one?

[@DefaultLoginDetaiIs]

@@lukeviewservice Yes, the AliExpress one was good enough up to 16PSI, after that the IATs would become an issue on long pulls or hot days. I'm in the UK though so by hot days I mean 30C

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

I am running the 7.5inch vrsf cooler. On track when moving i was sitting around 10-15deg above ambient. What would your CSF one do in relation to ambient temps?

[@DefaultLoginDetaiIs]

@@ZeroTo60Tube ah the 7.5inch one is a beast, probably even better than CSF. I was getting confused, watched one of your vids with the AliExpress install didn't realise it was a different car, so many cars to keep track of! 👍

[@mjbobbitt3592]

Did you measure the old axle with the bolts there? would make sense for being heavier

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

DUDE!!! Well noticed, i didnt even think about that. The alloy bolts wont weight much, but the steel collars they run through would. I will re check the weights. Thanks for pointing that out.

[@mjbobbitt3592]

@@ZeroTo60Tube great channel ! Keep up the content

[@JerainJezza]

I recommend 5W50, good on cold startup, low and high temps!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Good to know!

[@robinn5437]

In Germany, Motul 5w-50 is very common, its full synthetic

[@Nico_335i_DCT]

Hey Andrew. I'm on 5W30 Kroon Pesteza MSP. But I'm only on apr. 360 Hp crank. The car is on a tune but I don't know which one. A friend drove the car and says my car is faster then his( N55 350Hp). I think first owner did a oil thermostat change, because the car has to run for about 20km to get on the right temperature now in winter (10 degrees C). Dutch regards, Nico.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Thanks Nico, appreciate the info.

[@yuril.7718]

Your axel was already bad, I've never seen any body wit AT trany. Install the brace and you will get rid of wheel hop (that's what usually breaks axels) You may also install M3 subframe bushings, it will also help to prevent will hop. How are your brakes doing? No issues?

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

What do you think would cause the axle to "go bad"? Unfortunately still have concerns/issues with the brakes.

[@smoknhothonda]

@@ZeroTo60Tube axle tramp shock loading the axles for sure. Get some solid subframe bushings in, and some fresh diff bushings it will lock the rear end and stop it from flopping around. The difference is amazing when you upgrade the sloppy oem 335i sub bushings and arms etc especially with the power you're making

[@aanas_evo1713]

I've been doing 5W40 & its been awesome. I have high miles but it's been running nice & healthy. In cold, warm it doesn't matter...always great. I do CASTOR oil...never tried any other brands tbh

[@DERxTECHNIKER]

5w50 is what's recommended in the german n54 fb group. I use 5w50 and had no problems so far. For the winter months I go down to 5w40.

[@JerainJezza]

You can drive 5W50 all year, it's the 5W that's for the cold starts.

[@eddiepena2924]

I highly recommend you look into solid rear subframe mounts, and m3 or polly diff bushings with the axles and diff brace.

[@danjaz2000]

Im not a expert but im pretty sure the axle diameter change is so the axle breaks at that point. I assume to do as little damage as possible on failure. Im not a BMW guy but ill guess after upgrading axles the diff becomes the next week link. Id just fit those bad boys with the brace and send it

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

That makes a lot of sense. When it breaks in that small section in the joint much less chance of the axle flopping around and hitting things and it stays in the boot.

[@motodigitalvideo]

I dunno, seems against the general consensus, but I would fit the new axles now and forget about the destructive testing because you've got no guarantee that its going to be an axel that breaks next time!! I actually think that axel let go while you were already moving, it would have been fatigue related failure and therefore difficult to repeat on demand.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

That's true, i was doing 40kmh in second when the axle snapped. Which was probably just as it started to make decent boost in second. It really shouldnt have snapped tho.

[@ChrisJackson36]

Thicker oil will also change temperature more slowly. Maybe look into a heavy duty oil cooler and a different oil cooler thermostat. Mosselman makes one but it is not cheap.

[@snivesz32]

BMW calls for 5W-30 because that’s what they designed the engine bearings for at normal temperatures around the world. I wanted a little higher warm temperature viscosity for the track so I run Liqui Moly 5W-40. If you’re in a hot climate, like Australia then I don’t see a problem using 5W-40, or 5W-50 if you’re at a track event. If you’re in a cool climate like Europe maybe stick to 5W-30 or even 0W-30 if it’s frequently below zero.

[@Bama_Law]

That black color coating looks like tenifer surface treatment for rust corrosion resistance like firearms manufacturers use

[@msalamlaham7129]

The binding that is happening at the boot is concerning. I don't know about these axles.. I would also expect them to be heavier too considering they aren't hollow. I Would look into the type of metal being used before mounting them. Great work and content! hopefully we can bug your friend enough to get that diff brace goinn hahhaa.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Yeah, im thinking the joint must be larger, which is why its binding quicker than the stock ones do. Oh and yes please annoy shane!

[@ratonastick66]

Just broke one of these Mfactory axles on my fbo meth injected stock turbo car. The car has rb turbo rebuilt chra’s with the upgraded thrust. I run about 23psi. Happened when rolling on the throttle at the apex of a right turn.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Ohh man sorry to hear. How old were yours when it broke? Also do you run a diff brace?

[@ratonastick66]

@@ZeroTo60Tube Ive had them right at two years. I dont have a brace but do have an lsd and 275 summer tires on the rear. Ive never had any wheel hop. Ever. I dont do burnouts, donuts or anything abusive. I heard and felt a bang when i came up on boost. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

@@ratonastick66 I remember just before ordering there were a few guys in the states breaking the early mfactory ones. Wonder if yours are from the first batch. Strange you got to years out of them. You'd think if they were gonna snap that would have earlier. On the same note if you find anything else out about the failure please keep us filled in.

[@ratonastick66]

@@ZeroTo60Tube They may very well be the early ones. I have the car on the lift and diagnosed the problem today but have yet to start tearing it apart. It broke at the outer CV. At this point I’m not sure if it’s the shaft or the joint itself. I’ll let everyone know what exactly failed when I manage to get it apart. Looks like it’s time for DSS axles……

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

@@ratonastick66 Thanks for that. Can 100% rate DSS axles. Got them on our single turbo car and it will transbrake skid all day long. Well it has been for about 4 years anyway.

[@chrisdemott6614]

New axles tend to be very tight and will feel like they bind. No worries there

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

That makes sense and i hadn't really thought about it free-ing up. Thanks for the comment.

[@heathbailey4149]

Oil weight won’t change much for temperatures. Your best of looking at a MSL oil cooler thermostat( I have one and was well worth the expense and probably look at a CSF race three pass radiator. Even look at a possible mishimoto lower thermostat for the coolant. The heat will kill off horsepower when you need it most. I actual have a MSL oil cooler thermostat sitting in my garage but it’s designed for the N55 F series

[@Fix_It_Again_Tony]

Replacing the oil cooler thermostat is a good idea to maximize flow through the oil cooler. BMS sells a replacement valve that directs 100% of the oil through the cooler 100% of the time. burgertuning.com/products/sport-oil-cooler-valve I don't think the Mishimoto coolant thermostat will do much. At 115 °C water temps the thermostat is wide open. The DME can also open the thermostat on demand. The problem here seems to be cooling capacity, not when the thermostat opens.

[@pugs1377]

I would put the axels in first. Save the stockers for back up if you brake one of the new ones. Not sure about the thicker oil. Thicker oil may produce higher pressure. Higher pressure makes more heat. I would consider a higher quality oil first before going up in weight.

[@FTN-tx6ok]

Try running a burger tuning oil cooler bypass valve or just put your factory one in with the spring on the wrong side. This allows constant flow to the oil cooler. This has dropped my temps by 30 f for normal driving and 20 f for harder

[@B_Vuv]

BMW bearing clearances are on the tighter side. 5w-40 is max! 5W-30 is the recommended. To reduce oil temps a bigger oil cooler and correct thermostat setup is required. Everything else are just bandaids.

[@br4d101]

5-30w Castrol oil, what BMW recommend! Anything else just makes engine get hot, I’ve tried loads trust me lol

[@Saif0412]

I'd say fit the diff brace then the M factory axles. I've seen some crazy low IAT's using Meth injection, even lower than Ambient temps, IAT's dropping on pulls, hope you go that route eventually. Fortunately Ambient temps nowhere near as hot in UK compared to Australia.

[@glenmcmurtrie5568]

The M factory axles brake to i broke one after replacing the broken stock axles i ended up buying ones in the USA the drag guys use they are also lighter and stronger. good luck with the M axles, my 335i is 500hp at the rear if you are pushing more hp the M axles will not last long they are only rated to 380hp.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

How long ago did you break the Mfactory? I did read of a few issues with the first batch, so i am hoping i have the newer ones here. Fingers are crossed anyway. Oh also are you manual or auto?

[@glenmcmurtrie5568]

Hi 10th month 2018 i replaced to the M axles i had on for two weeks then the right one failed the guys in the USA had the same problems they go on the bearing surround. Glen.

[@glenmcmurtrie5568]

@@ZeroTo60Tube i just looked at your video again did you look at how thick the bearing surround is compared to the stock ones i am Shaw the ones you purchased look the same as the ones i got from the USA and the surround is thicker.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

@@glenmcmurtrie5568 forgive me here. When you say bearing surround, do you mean the part that encapsulates the cv joint? As i said in this vid, i dont know much about axles.

[@glenmcmurtrie5568]

@@ZeroTo60Tube Yes correct the part that encapsulates the cv joint, both times failed on the outer CV. XHP stage 3 has made my car feel more smooth under load the standard gearbox tune was never good with 500hp thus maybe contributed to the failures.

[@guillermolopez1690]

I always watch your vids as soon as they pop up! Looking forward to seeing you test these out. I just snapped my prop shaft and had to order a Drive Shaft Shop CF replacement. Now I'm worried about snapping an axle next...

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Jesus, i havent heard of many drift shafts going before axles. Are you manual or auto?

[@docgramps1]

Oh hells yeah, take the X5 and the trailer and lunch them stock axles! The scientific approach!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Scientific, thats the word! hahah

[@geoffreymoulton5707]

Fit the diff brace and see how long the stock axle's will last, Hillside never replied so I had to get a Burger motorsport one, fits easily but how the hell can you check the diff oil

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Had hillsides diff brace on for a few months now. Launched hard with stock axles and AR-1s and havent managed to snap another one yet. Looks like probably didnt need the upgraded axles. Hillsides diff braces are still in test phase and not for sale yet, but sorry he didnt reply to you.

[@MrCybergladiator]

Interesting comparison. Torque is transmitted through the outside of a component, so the middle doesn't really do much hence why most stuff like that (tail shafts, sway bars, axles) are hollow. That said the difference in materials can be HUGE between different types of steels. Hopefully they go well. Good video, keep it up.

[@25kwh]

For oil - 10-40 is good if your oil would be running cooler (90-100 C). If you are always under load and above 100C on oil - perhaps better to get in 10-50 to help maintain high temp viscosity. Going beyond 10-50 or not heating it up will cause clearance issues. For axles - just put the new ones in along with the brace and get back into 0-60 testing and tuning :). One less thing to worry.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Thanks for the info!

[@dujon5481]

Nice video, can’t wait to see how they hold on launches 👍🏽

[@richardoffshore]

I have used LiquiMoly 5w40 molygen for the first time, seemed to perform well at EuroDay it had been in the car for 9000km. Has a cool blue light feature to find oil leaks(when fresh)

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Good to know...... But 9000km without a change....... you like to live on the wild side i see haha

[@lasse8907]

Hey man! How are these holding up? Can't find a second review on your channel :)

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Hey man, unfortunately still haven’t fitted them. Things didn’t exactly go to plan with the build.

[@Bama_Law]

Dude, you should do more chicom go fast parts testing! That way you can test than me!

[@rushansoubar]

I've seen my IAT here in dubai on 50-55 c during summer heat that 45 C outside but I got meth injection, im running Motul X-cess 5w40 and change it every 6-7k km, car boosted since it had 60k and now I'm on 250k km, as for the diff bracket I'm on stock ax but with fresh diff bushing and diff bracket, so I would say try the bracket on stock ax and see how much it will hold, worth also to check your diff bushing.

[@JimmyLLL]

You’re going to 101 different opinions on oil viscosity. It’s probably safe to run 10 higher than recommended in qld due to it being warm most of the year. Can you fit an oil cooler? I have a fairly small one but right at the front and struggle to get my oil temps over 75 (not a bmw). Fairly cheap and easy to fit. Another for the trans will help too.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

The car does have a trans cooler (aftermarket) and factory engine oil cooler. But a lot of guys do upgrade the factory engine oil cooler. Might be something to look in to.

[@Pho6oZ]

I run 5w40, Chilean weather so very similar if not hotter sometimes than Australia where you guys are and I track it with it. As far as I have learned the water cooling is the weakspot for the N54, there are a few topics about it in spoolstreet where a guy located in china showed logs and how to make the car reliable. long story short, upgraded oil cooler, twin water coolers like the is (CSF and aux something) and if auto (dct or auto) a way to separate the trans temp from the engine temp, since you guys are in hot weather I doubt you will need the trans oil warmer/cooler that exists at the bottom of the rad, not sure if you removed it when installed the massive trans cooler back in the old videos. Also water wetter and a higher water to coolant ratio helps a lot

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Good info there. Thanks. Yeah i have completely bypassed the trans heat exchanger. Also not running a thermostat on the transmission and its been fine so far.

[@ydhreaytjk4w]

i use mobil 1 5w50 and never had any problems but on the nurburgring i have a temperature of 125 C My car: e92 335i n54 1663Kg and 476hp to the wheels

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Hmmm i bet ring laps quickly make up for my ambients being much higher. I think im gonna try a 5w50 or maybe a 10w50 even.

[@ydhreaytjk4w]

@@ZeroTo60Tube If it's not so cold in your country I think 10w50 will work have a nice day

[@n54power21]

@@ZeroTo60Tube For Australia use Liqui Moly 5w50 or other oil 10w50, is safer in high temperatures. In Germany I take 5w50, better in cold temperatures, 10w50 better in warm

[@JerainJezza]

Same here, 5W50 in my FBO N54 ringtool. :D Does only weigh around 1480kg empty...

[@tighematthew]

When i was using the 10-50 i was getting a bit of lifter noise till it warmed up so went back to the 5-40 👍

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Well, thats interesting. Back in the day we used run thick oil to shut up lifters on the old falcons. But the lifters in the N54 are microscopic in comparison. What brand of oil are you running?

[@tighematthew]

@@ZeroTo60Tube penrite the same as you... yours might not just have to try it

[@JerainJezza]

BTW my diff builder always says the stock axles from BMW are always the best...

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Well thats concerning....We'll see what happens with these.

[@richardoffshore]

It so difficult, I want to see how the m factory shafts perform, but I love testing shit. Test the old shafts with the brace. It should be fun!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

I think this is general consensus. Maybe you guys just like seeing me break stuff.

[@snivesz32]

Maybe test Shane’s new diff brace with stock axles? We know mfactory axles won’t break. Well I guess everything breaks given enough torque, but as long as that number is higher than what the N54 can do, we should be safe. What we don’t know is if it’s launch rpm or boost that breaks the stock axles and how much of each?

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Sounds like a plan to me.

[@MatthewGlad]

Best oil for the gearbox is amzoil

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Dont really see amzoil here. What product do you specifically use. Getting ZF6 fluid seems to be a bit of a challenge for some people.

[@odie0815]

For the sake of sience I'd go first with the diff brace to see the difference and fit the axles afterwards on the other hand side - you already modified the diff itself - so how much of the experience from fitting the brace with oem axles will transfer over to others who have stock internals in their diffs???

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

You're right will only be relevant for people running LSD centres. I can't see anyone snapping an axle with an open diff. They just one tire fire too easy and release the energy that way.

[@craigbeamer9611]

Diff brace. 4.6is plus trailer. .. then send it.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Sounds like a plan haha.

[@flinchy952]

Also I have been wondering if you got your diff from Matt as the timing was too coincidental, I only started watching you since the install video. My mate had it in his 130i but hated how tight it was for his car so sold it to Matt

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Lol yep that's the diff. She's not a toy thats for sure! It feels great when you are trying to drive fast, the way it pulls out of corners in my thing in brilliant and i have no doubts thats why i snapped that axle. But yeah for normal driving its probably a bit full on.

[@MatthewGlad]

Fit the Axel's and diff brace stuff breaking more Axel's

[@igotaction]

Do you have the BMS low temp oil cooler valve? Do that before you do anything else. I run either Motul or Liqui Moly 5w-40.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

I don't thats not a bad idea. This particular very hot day with repeated pulls was a rare occasion but its got me thinking about it.

[@cyberspooky]

To be honest I’m worried, if the axle is solid then it has a shear point , the whole reason for the hollow is to remove the shear point, going to be interesting 👍

[@Fix_It_Again_Tony]

This might be true, but the axle material makes a big difference. In the offroad truck world almost all axle shafts are solid and high alloy axle are used with big tires as a way to make the axle less prone to breaking. Few axles are gun drilled, but only at the pinnacle of performance, like Ultra 4.

[@TheMultiDouche]

Make sure you do those axle torx bolts up ;) No one wants to be stranded at lakeside with sheared and backed out bolts :p

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

hahaha oh man.... hey at least thats all it was.

[@BiglumpADV]

I'd fit the axles, they're not going to add performance just strength. I'd fit them straight away and try the brace when it comes. You'll know if it's better from all your previous runs

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Its probably the smart thing to do for my setup. I just wondered if i should work out if the diff brace will be enough for other people. hmmmmm. It would be great if i get the brace this week.

[@gaboonviper85]

Oil doesn't effect bearing clearance..... thick oil is good for when you're tracking the car as oil thins out when hot and when pushing the car hard it will get hotter than typical street driving..... Rule of thumb for motor oil is use whatever weight of oil gives you 10 psi per 1000rpm.

[@gaboonviper85]

Some people thick thick oil is better but thats so impossibly far from the truth..... heavy oil doesn't flow well until really hot so bearing starvation and broken oil pump components are an issue also with thick oil..... it seems to be a very common bmw fallacy that just won't disappear that thicker is better because all their high end sports cars recommend thick oil but thats because they market it as a race car!

[@n54power33]

Hey. I’m sorry, I know this is a very old video. Did you ever get to install those MFactory axles?

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

No, however i did sell them to a freind, that car is nearly assembled.

[@n54power33]

Alright. The reason I was asking is because I’m planing on buying upgraded axles for my 335i and I wanted to know your thoughts after the install. Thank you.

[@markonisic3469]

motul 300 V 5w-40

[@MrAlec201178]

5w30 here in scotland but if i seen 50 inlet temps my cars on fire 😂👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@davidaames8787]

How have these axles held up ?

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Unfortunately I never fitted them. Had a series of issues. Then dct swap. I did work out that open diffs are much more friendly to the axles.

[@davidaames8787]

@@ZeroTo60Tube do you want to sell them ?

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

@@davidaames8787 nah, i will fit them eventually.

[@Fix_It_Again_Tony]

Look at your oil temps and wear metals in used oil analysis. If both are withing operating ranges, then stick with your current oil. The hot viscosity is critical to how the babbitt bearings perform. If the oil is running hot, maybe you need an oil with a thicker hot weight. I believe the oil temperature and bearing clearance are really what dictate the oil viscosity and then you pick an oil weight from there to get an oil with the proper viscosity at your operating temperature. S engines are notorious for eating bearings. I haven't heard of the same problem in the N54 so I wouldn't think the same rules of thumb about oil viscosity apply. With that said, if you are running the oil at 122 °C that is getting up there so maybe a 50 hot weight is a good idea. Power reduction kicks in at 148 °C oil temp and 117 °C coolant temp. Fit the new axles and the diff brace, then don't worry about it again. There is more to axles than shaft diameter. The steel alloy used in the shaft makes a huge difference. Lots of off road applications use high alloy axles with big tires to stop breaking the shafts.

[@koachk5360]

Stock axles + diff brace + Dragy = 👍

[@n54berk]

Honestly, if you aren’t going to be wringing the car out every time you drive it for the oil the get to it’s optimal temps i wouldn’t go any thicker. 5w40 is a perfect balance not too thin and not too thick. I’ve had multiple high horsepower n54’s and n55’s (550-750hp range) and i’ve never dealt with oil starvation or anything negative while running 5w40

[@benmendez3285]

When are you going to throw the car on a dyno mate

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

One day. I dont pay a lot of attention to dyno numbers personally, because they change so much. The same dyno will run different power numbers on different days. I get much more excited about trap speed or dragy 100-200s when i want to compare how much power someones car is making. We do want to run both mine and daves car on a dyno on the same day, to see how the 17t n54 compares to a supercharged s62 so it will happen, but obviously need both cars sorted first.

[@timwright3394]

Hey mate, is Shane going to fab up a totally new style brace or along the lines of the BMS brace?

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

initially it will be like all the others on the market. i did say to him i like the one piece design, not welded pieces like some out there. But i haven't seen what he's come up with yet. He's the sort of dude who's doing it for love, not mass producing for dollars, so will be open to any ideas on how to improve the design for sure.

[@timwright3394]

@@ZeroTo60Tube just sent you a Facebook message...

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

@@timwright3394 Thanks man, ill check it now.

[@OCOWGTR27]

I run penrite 0w-40 racing, because its a group 4/5 oil, rather than a group 3 like the HPR5. 40 hot weight is fine, the highest ive heard anyone using in a modern bmw turbo engine even racing was a 50 weight oil. Even at a skidpan day in high temps, my oil temp never went above 120deg, so you def dont need more weight IMO. EDIT: IMO HPR5 is the perfect oil for non race applications if you're just driving on the street, even with the power level you have.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Good to know man and i do appreciate the info. Might need to look in to the Penrite racing if i'm going to be doing some harder "track" driving.

[@lukeviewservice]

I am excited about this!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Me too i want to get this 0-100 time well in to the 3's...... Then we'll see what happens on a proper drag strip

[@lukeviewservice]

@@ZeroTo60Tube What is the state of your tires? Will we get to see a before and after with new rubber or are yours pretty good already?

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

They are about 50% ish.... maybe worse... but thats what i like to believe they are. I will need better rubber soon.

[@aXc000]

1. Axles: my vote for stock with brace tests first, upgraded later. In that way if you break both you have no spare. 2. Oils: Have read about higher viscosity oils and have not found any factual based measurements for N54 that could prove the need of changing to thicker. All I found so far is opinions and comments like "I am using without problems". I used 5w-50 for a while but going back to oil that has been recomended by BMW for this engine as they have considered clearances etc for that oil viscosity. Have found comments for 5w-50 mainly only from German threads, seems like a German take/opinion on this. I have not noticed difference on 5w-40 vs 5w-50. I also have new oil thermostat that starts cooling the oil a bit earlier, but has no effect on peaks. Personally I rather not risk causing potential engine wear due too thick oil on normal oil temperature ranges and potentially benefiting a bit thicker layer on temperature peaks that occasionally happen as my car usage is not daily tracking. I might go with thicker oil for track in the future, or have a bit shorter track sessions and cooling the oil temps between or get additional oil cooler installed to keep the temps steady.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

1. ok i think thats settled. 2. as for the oils, yeah i was getting the same info from research. Lucking the comment section has just complicated the issue further haha. More thinking to be done!

[@ferrynpalmer3875]

Fit the diff brace and send it 1st. 2nd....get the car on a dyno so we all know what kind of load is possibly snapping them! I also don't see many instances of auto N54's having this same issue, but are you putting down infinitely more toque then all pf them?......WE DON'T KNOW! lol

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Jesus you guys your dynos...... haha.

[@flinchy952]

Oil: 10tenths. Iirc HPR has some hydrocracked base stock Like you, I really like penrite. No you should not be running thicker oil, 40 weight is what you should be running even abused with high power on the track. You aren't gaining anything by running a thicker oil except added friction really 10tenths is 100% group IV/V true synthetic and is an all around top notch oil. Great for e85 use, It's what I've always ran in every n54 I own and gets pretty cheap on sale ($55ish/5L?). My current n54 being basically a dedicated track car, so I've put a lot of effort into (hopefully) keeping oil temps 100% on point. Unfortunately, my solution (heat exchanger, so oil temp pegged to coolant temp) won't work for you being auto, as I'm manual so my coolant system has more headroom lol

[@flinchy952]

Older m engines run 60 as a band-aid for too-tight bearing clearances, hoping for added film strength, the real solution is to fit looser bearings N54 owners might run thicker oil as a band-aid for poor oil temp control The solution being better oil cooling. Run w40 and try to keep temps as close to say

[@lukeviewservice]

I reckon you fit the new axles as soon as you get new hardware so as to keep the warranty and then try and break them, then you have spare OEM axles while they get replaced or refunded. They also say they have a hollow core on their website which "reduces rotational weight by 30%!" so I am going to assume they are hollow?

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

I thought i read (on a forum mind you) they were solid. They dont bong as much as the factory ones, so maybe its a smaller hole.

[@ltdasilva93]

Stick with 5w40 and if anything go with Motul Sport. No need for 10w60.

[@THEZEST1357]

I wouldn't touch the oil weight, unless you go to a track day and the car will be running hot the whole day. Even so, you'd be better controlling the temp of the oil rather than changing weights just for that purpose. If the engine is designed for 5w30/40 LL spec stick with it. If you were to build the motor and had new bearings, rods, new oil pump, etc then there may be some merit to it.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Thanks man, see this is what i originally thought... but the commenters are getting in my head haha.

[@THEZEST1357]

@@ZeroTo60Tube the problem is one person will swear by somethibg like 10w60 and another will say keep 5w30. The reality is you'll not be able to assess bearing wear and so on over a short period of time. I've always stuck with what the manufacturer has specified unless there was a valid reason to do otherwise. I mean surely they don't pay oil engineers millions of dollars collectively to select the wrong oil for their cars?

[@joshbrennan8545]

Hehe.. shaft size.. 🤣 If it was mine, I'd install the brace before the new axles. Then, if nothing else, you will have less chance of destroying the new ones. Also, with oil, makes a lot of sense. I've just gone from the factory 5w30 to molygen 5w40 in the Audi. No issues. I know it's a different rig but same idea.

[@Mr16bit]

I would run something thicker in summer. 10 60

[@msalamlaham7129]

5W-40 Liqui-Moly Full synthetic with MANN filter is the way to go in your case. I would not go beyond 5W-40, the engineers who designed the engine know the tolerances and cold start minimum oil flow rates best. Putting in a 50+ oil is risky!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Thanks for sharing

[@humble1835]

Sweeet!!! She's looking clean 👌

[@cornfedboost]

How good do those orange boost look.. but why did they put them there aye 😅 definitely fit the axles and diff brace man stop breaking stuff and send it with confidence 😁🤘

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

What is this confidence you speak of?

[@cornfedboost]

I haven't yet experienced it but they say it has something to do with turning a gas bottle on 🤔😅

[@bstew4841]

We already know your car makes enough power to snap stock axles, let’s see how the upgrades hold up???

[@KurumaDesigns]

Do the diff brace first

[@mariusfridlund55]

tws 10w60👌

[@javi_335i]

I want to beef mine up too. 👍🏽

[@scottb5356]

Fit the diff brace to the old axles and see if you can break them!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Well i kinda think we all assume the diff brace helps, let's make sure. I might not even need the axle upgrade if the diff brace does genuine make a difference.

[@StratoJohn]

I'd also say run the old axles and see what happens 😂 maybe that's the destructive nature within though

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

I think im going to. I really want to see if a diff brace helps.

[@davidpenton1979]

Time to step up Shane.....LOL

[@paulsimpson8990]

Check out misha charoudins KZbin channel from apex racing. In a recent vid they tell how they run 15w50 in current m3 and m4 ring taxis. I was there in summer in 2019 and it was 8 deg Celsius one day.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Huge fan of Misha.... not sure how i missed that vid. I will go hunting.

[@franciscorubio4220]

Whoever disliked this is a Toyota Prius owner

[@Saif0412]

🤣 Or a Tree Hugger.

[@javi_335i]

He drives a 328i with the loudest burble tune lol

[@thorrx7955]

I seriously think it’s your axle tramp that keeps smashing tail shafts!! Run the brace and test stock axels. I’m sure everyone wants to see that test as it might squash the rumour and help other decide if they need upgraded shafts

[@jeandamours4093]

I have a diff brace with stock axle and I broke 7 axle total before upgrading them the diff brace wont save the axle

[@thorrx7955]

@@jeandamours4093 fair enough mate just be good to have on video for other too then.

[@Al-of3zp]

All I know is oils 'ain't oils but when you find a good product stick to it.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

I feel like ive heard that before somewhere haha.

[@Saif0412]

5w40 should be fine as long as its fully synthetic.

[@curtmosca1654]

Definitely wouldn't waste a cent on these. Just get the ///M3 diff, driveshaft and axles. These really aren't much of and upgrade.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Well problem is down here the M3 rear end setups run 5kAUD. Its just way too much money.

[@rotorshed4115]

Should really go for a decent quality oil as you are pushing it pretty hard. Id go 10w/60. Fitting the diff brace and then trying to snap axles sounds like a good time and a good vid.

[@jasonhorvath4272]

👍😀👍

[@piroozhr7968]

Just send them lol

[@quadlawnmowerman]

Lol, "they sound solid" (BUT ACTUALLY THEY ARE NOT)...