Zone Pushing Experiments - Bismarckia Nobilis and Phalaenopsis Orchids growing outdoors in zone 5B

[@2023byoml]

Very impressive! I am zone 8b/9a but the problem with growing a lot of the tropicals here in the PNW is the constant cool rain and humidity. It is too cold for most tropicals but also warm enough for fungus and mold to attack the plants. Our winters are very long but don’t get as cold as yours but the constant rain makes it hard to plant a lot of the palms that can’t handle being wet during winter. And the enclosures get too humid and rot the plants. Also our Falls and Spring season are often the similar weather as winter low fifties high forties during the day and thirties at night and raining.

[@GreenDragan]

Weather does impact the palm tree species we can grow. I guess if we have deep pockets we can through enough resources at the problem but that is not realistic. Cheers, happy gardening.

[@Sandor68]

Great stuff Dragan and I'm glad I was able to see your plants in person!

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you Sandor! I am optimistic they will be stronger and fuller in the spring.

[@tonysanta1240]

I see your name everywhere, Sándor! Greetings from a fellow hungarian palm lover from London, Ontario. Cheers 🍻

[@gregslaski6956]

Sounds like good zone pushing experiment. I have two 7 gallon Bismarcks in pots that I bring inside for the winter here in zone 6b southern Ontario . Good luck Dragon 🐉.

[@Sandor68]

@@tonysanta1240 Hey Tony! So nice to meet you my Hungarian brother and nice to know your so close! találkozunk👍😁

[@Sandor68]

@@gregslaski6956 I definitely need to visit your place someday, Greg!

[@westkentuckypalmguy1994]

I’m loving your garden and videos. You’re inspiring me to try more exotics in my zone 7a in the spring. I have 3 different types of windmills and 4 different types of sabals as well as many trunking yuccas and needle palms

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you very much West Kentucky Palm guy for the kind words. That's awesome! Keep pushing the limits with the palms and exotics. Happy gardening.

[@mnik8501]

Thanks for sharing, this will really help me do better with my zone 7b exotic garden in Maryland, USA.

[@Prokastrynator]

Iimpressive, extreme zone pushing, I am enjoying your videos with my son. Good luck

[@GreenDragan]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@Andrew-jp1uc]

Another amazing video. You’ve inspired me to move my windmills from pot into the ground next spring. Look forward to seeing how the Bismarck over winters!

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you Andrew! Sounds great! When you put in the work it is rewarding to see the results.

[@selvychristy1965]

I can see your orange zest jasmine at the back. Very nice video! You are great.

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you Selvy. If you look closely there is a humming bird feeding on it. The plant is still flowering profusely well into November.

[@philipderoos8871]

Great video. And encouraging. I have got musa basjo and sabal minor palm plants that I have successfully over wintered outside in southern Ontario (zone 7) for several years. Trying a sago outside this winter for the first time this seasohn. Am working on trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm) that I started from seed this spring but those will stay inside in a south window this year... need to get a bit bigger before attempting outside over winter. Thanks for your video.

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you very much Philip de Roos! Sago palms look great and are super easy to protect with the C9 Christmas lights method. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m3OcgYFoibSAd6s Keep pushing the limits and create that tropical looking garden. Happy gardening.

[@fernmichalenko9577]

Love your garden I moved from Costa Rica where tropical grow gorgeous your yard reminds me of my 87 tropical plants in my garden yard in Costa Rica.

[@GreenDragan]

Fern Michalenko that sounds amazing. I envy what can be grown in a tropical climate.

[@havic4994]

I have a Bismarkia growing on Long Island, NY in zone 7a it’s going on it’s 2nd winter but I only had it on a therocube last winter in it’s box and it did suffer slight damage to crown rot. The moisture was to high and the box getting down to 35 was it’s downfall. So this winter it’s staying above 45. You’ve helped me so much with your videos. I also have 2 14ft Sabal Palmettos which will be on there 2nd winter boxed which are doing great here. Best of luck and thanks for all the videos, information, and help with winterizing tropicals

[@GreenDragan]

It may take some time to find the sweet spot to grow a happy palm. Try to mimic the palms natural habitat within realistic limits so it can grow more fronds than it looses per season. Happy gardening.

[@exoticplantscanada494]

Green Dragon you are a legend! Would love to come visit you in the spring to see your garden. Would be happy gift you with a new palm if too if you have anything on your wish list!

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you very much Mark. Would be happy to arrange a visit next spring. Cheers.

[@swayback7375]

Awesome job! Best of luck, that Bismarck is gorgeous!

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you SwayBack! Let's hope next year it will be alive and well.

[@vincenzecalzone8666]

Another really interesting experiment Dragan. Bismarckia is my favourite palm together with the brahea armata. Beautiful silver colour on both. Never seen a Bismarckia grown outdoors in the Uk even though 9a climates in places. I have successfully germinated 2 seedlings both 3 years old but I'm cautious with them and keep them inside. I really hope your Bismarckia experiment is successful. Cheers man

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you Vincenze ! My research shows that Bismarkia palms can take single digit temperatures but must be kept dry during winter. So raised beds, good soil, and a heated cold frame at 10C should work. Cheers!

[@HavCal]

I'm In a part of London that gets high end of zone 9b temps as a minimum issue is our high in Dec Jan and Feb even where I am is 10c and low is 5c which is too cool for bismarkckia not too cold might be worth a try putting some polythene over one to act like a sun trap to so the day time high reaches 15-20c rather than 10c I know they grow in Melbourne and Barcelona where their winter high is only 14-15c

[@ScottyOn1]

Very cool experiment!! I hope they all make it through for you. With the way you protect them, they have the best shot of making it

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you Scott! These are two fascinating species for me. Should this work as I plan, next year could open a whole new range of tests of species I admire and create my tropical dream garden.

[@ScottyOn1]

@@GreenDragan I can’t imagine what your electric bill looks like during the winter :0

[@GreenDragan]

@@ScottyOn1 when my cold frames come on, the neighbourhood goes dim.

[@ScottyOn1]

@@GreenDragan LOL!!

[@mcw1]

Love your videos. Thank you for sharing your garden.

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you Matt Cwiklinski! Cheers.

[@alexlalonde4190]

Wow Bismarck palm, i believe you'll be successful in winterizing it. 👍🌴🌴

[@GreenDragan]

Thanks Alex. All my research says yes. But mother nature may have other plans.

[@GardenForaged]

Just found your channel! Im so excited to watch all of your videos very shorty 😂. Do you have a video on how you make the boxes you use to overwinter your plants?

[@GreenDragan]

Yes I do! I have a 2 part video on winter protection kzbin.info/www/bejne/ep-aiZ2Pis6ijs0 is part one and kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGaTqnWjeqyGfZY part two

[@GardenForaged]

@@GreenDragan thank you!

[@tropicolin3539]

Great vid! Thanks for sharing. I’m in KW area as well and was considering bismarkia for an overwinter experiment. Will probably cross that off my list now. I’m curious if you have had much success overwintering a Pygmy date palm, and if so is that on a normal thermocube? Thanks!

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you for watching! Keep experimenting. I have had Phoenix roebelenii overwinter with no signs of damage. I suggest a programmable thermostat with a minimum temp of 5C not 2c. In the right full sun location and good soil prep, raised beds etc. it is totally doable. I have overwintered more tender plants like bird of paradise with no problem using my protection methods. Happy gardening. For more in depth discussion my personal e-mail is [e-mail]

[@ЗокирРахимов-о3ж]

Да вликолепний сад дякую за видиос...

[@GreenDragan]

Дякую за перегляд. Thank you for watching.

[@ЗокирРахимов-о3ж]

Как називаеться вот это жёлтие колоколчики ?...​@@GreenDragan

[@GreenDragan]

@@ЗокирРахимов-о3ж Brugmansia Aurea

[@ЗокирРахимов-о3ж]

Дякую удачи тебе...❤

[@cameronmelancon5793]

New to gardening, so I ask humbly. Are C9 lights the best for growth? Your orange and blue D/5 really opened my eyes! God Bless -CM

[@GreenDragan]

The purpose of the C9 bulbs is to produce a gentle heat and help the plants not to freeze during extremely cold zone 5 winters. They are plugged into a thermostat which is preset to a minimum and maximum temperature. Depending on the species temps range from 5C to 10C. Any growth during winter is minimal at temperatures below 10C or 50F. Cheers.

[@custodiansrock]

Interesting as all ways. Did the pindo palm flower ever open up this summer?

[@GreenDragan]

Thanks custodiansrock. Two flower spikes opened and the one has many fruit forming. Video coming soon.

[@groundtoessences6539]

Hey. Nice work! I live in a zone 8A Denmark Copenhagen. Do you Think i Can make it work with some Winter protection and c9 Christmas bulbs + heater with thermostat or is it a death for the palm? I have that has been growing fine in a pot and is about 8 years old. But I’m so afraid to put it in the ground if it would die after the winter 🥶

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you Groundtoessences! In theory it should work. I would not sacrifice an older palm. In my case I did not consider not being able to water the trees for about 4-1/2 to 5 months because we had abnormally cold weather, coldest in years. The cold frames could not be removed or opened. We had 60cm of snow and ice, strong winds, temps below -20C many days. In an average winter I could open them on milder days and water a bit if needed after a month or two. There is always next year. Happy gardening.

[@calebsgarden5400]

Love the video everything is worth trying.!

[@GreenDragan]

Thanks Caleb’s garden! Keep experimenting, it's how we learn from each other.

[@Maritime-Tropical]

Another great vid!! I'm curious... Where I live in NB, its hard to find plants. What are some of your best seed successes?

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you Todd! I grow a wide variety of plants and each one is special for some reason. There are many online sources depending on your interests. Gardening friends often bring me seeds and cuttings from their exotic vacations. Many botanical gardens I visit sell souvenirs of exotic plant seeds in my travels. From seed I am proud of my plumerias, Thevetia peruviana, and many tropical fruit trees from store bought fruit. Happy gardening.

[@texastropics]

Look up Resurrection fern - they're pretty common in the Southeast. I think that's what you have. Hardy to zone 6

[@GreenDragan]

Thanks Tropical PDX. I will look into it. Cheers.

[@wintermetalhd]

Not sure if that's resurrection fern. I'm not an expert but it looks like resurrection leaflets are attached to the rachis all along their bases. It looks like on this fern, the leaflets are on short stalks with a separation between themselves and the rachis. I bring this up because it's the quickest way I know to differentiate between Western Sword Fern and Deer Fern. Also all of the Resurrection images I can find, the leaflets are smooth edged, not serrated like the ones here.

[@pawewierzbicki4138]

Beautyfull plants! This ferm might be also blechnum spicant, or some kind of blechnum. It is native to my country too, greetings from Poland!

[@christopheryajeev7835]

oved the Video , very Informative, I have a question about Revitalizing the soil in a 20 gallon barrel where a 6 foot Bismark Palm tree has rooted itself. I have been contemplating using Vermicule & perlite at the top of the soil so it eventually soaks into the soil. I have no intention of removing th ep[almt tree from the barrel for the next year or two until i can acquire land to plant it. SO my only alternative righ now is to just reinvigorate the soil as best i can so they can absorb nutrients.. The palm trees have for sure rooted in the entire barrel so these no way for me to remove and replace soill. The water is soaking into the soil 2-3 seconds after i soak it weekly so the soikl does have a thic sandy consistency, not mud, which is a positive thing, i thnik i can extend its life, Any advice is welcome i was even speaking with a chemical engineer who did some cources in hydrophonics , he was suggesting to do the as you suggested as some organic composite to revitalize the soil or some Bountiful to fluffy the sand so it can obsorb the nutrients better. I do have them in direct sunlight & i have been repeatedly told that they are drough tolerant but i fear i am Beverly under-watering them, i have not yet invested n a hydrometer or a ph meter but soo will. My watering cycle has basically been just 1-2 mins of a hose at the top of the barrel, i fear that far from what a 25gallon barrel requires....today i put approx 1 gallon in the barrel, it seemed to soak in slowly as the roots are so comact making the soil compact...i actaully read online that where oyu have a pot that is for example 25 galons as in my case , oyu allow for 25 gallons of water to flow nto the pot...does that make sense at all?i suppose that owuld make sense if the pot has excellent drainage...in this case ot be safe a 5 gallon bucket should be sufficient ever 2-3 days considering i am in the tropical caribbean of St Lucia and the heat & sun for sure dry out that barrel... ANy rain we do will unlikley fill more than 1 liter or two into the barrel every 2 weeks. I am going to treat the barrel with Banrot, so that would allow me to water it more frequently without fear of rotting n the soil but at the same time i am trying to gradually increase the watering amount and frequncy to make sure the nutrients and fungiisides like banrot cand get into he palm. Sinc ei cant trust the solil, i am actually using liquid fertilizers like superthrive and nutrient express meant to be absorbed intot he roots within 15 min as a precaution directly intot he crown and around the base/trunk of the roots..seems to be the only sure applicaton for obsorption, especially since i fear i am under-watering..i am seeing a progressive yellow to browning of the bottom leaves to a fast extent but at the same tme i see the top leaves now releasing into a new fan.. Please advise me accordingly, if you would like to see the actual palms is there a social media contact i can send you the videos and photos?

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you Christopher Yajeev. My personal email is [e-mail] In my opinion, if you are not getting sufficient rain, and the container has good drainage holes and a good soil mix, I would suggest allow the plant to stand in water for about 10 minutes then allow to drain. This mimics what happens in nature during a tropical downpour. Most tropical plants do better with more water less often. If watered frequently the soil needs to dry some what or root rot may be a problem. A young plant may also benefit from some shade during mid day sun. This will allow the plant to better take up water and food. Bismarckias do like heat but can cook in a container. Water only when the top couple of inches feel dry. Amend the soil with some rich compost in the top of the container as you periodically would when the plant is growing in the ground. Adding perlite etc. will increase how fast the water drains. Once rooted and established in the ground they are more drought tolerant and if planted in a descent location full sun will be no problem. Happy gardening.

[@christopheryajeev7835]

@@GreenDragan THnak you so much , i have started a regimented watering cycle every other day i would add 5 gallons in intervals of 10 mins between each gallon in all four barrels , two barrels seem to be drainng after the first 3 gallons so i stop and continue for the next two barrels up to the 5 gallons cause they seem to really need it dure to more soil in the barrel and there slightly larger size. SO i do have another concern, now i had this issue when i first started nurturing strap vanda orchids ....the plants seem to have a very week immune system on arriving to me as they are highly succeptible to yellow bacterial spotting on the foilage, now my approach has been to fetilize to strengthen the palms but then as well to spray with an antifungual and natural fungiside cleaner kasumin all the foilage and crown as well as roots, but apparently not even that has arrested it as yet , obviously it nees more treatments to strengthen its system, but i also plan to use a systemic fungiside called banrot which i saw in a documentary by Motes orchid garden to be one of the best systemic funguisides for prevention of disease....i didint want to overwhelm the oalm with the banrot this week but for sure next week.. my foilage does have alot of yellow spots, i did apply a rooting fertilizer called 12 24 12 & i am using small amounts of epson salts a, nutrient express and Superthrive hormone that contains the vitimn B1 to help with shock from movng the palms...its been about 10 days ive had them, they have finally stabilized after having suffered a loss of the bottom 2-3 leaves on each cause i underwatered but we already addressed that issue now its to strengthen the immune system and stop the bacterial succeptibility to the yellow spots and bacteria on the leaves.... i was told to use some limestone in my mix but i dont really want to interfere with the soil in the pot as i did replace the first two layers when it arrived wth fresh potting soil and that as well probably contributed to the loss of the bottom leaves which turned brown and are ready to be pruned...fortunetly the new spheres in the centerof all the plants are in large numbers of 4-5 so if i can build the health of them i am lookng at some healthy new spheres opening up...now all that i have said is from my research, any adive on any of the things i am doing is welcome so as to guide me in the correct direction..thanks so much for your responses , makes me feel im not alone in all this.hope to hear from you soon

[@GreenDragan]

@@christopheryajeev7835 since you are using pellets this would not apply, only if it was liquid fertilizer. Adding a handful or two of limestone when mixing a fresh batch of soil would not hurt but in this case I would stick to perlite and compost. Use perlite when you want better drainage and aeration, and use vermiculite when you want more moisture retention. Since these are larger palms with a full root system vermiculite may have a tough time working its way throughout the mix. As far as vanda orchids, your tropical growing conditions can better be answered by local gardeners. I am sure your attempts would put my poor specimens in colder zones to shame.

[@christopheryajeev7835]

@@GreenDragan wow thank you so much for the explanation of the difference between perlite & vemiculite, i was using the terms interchangeably, now i realize the difference. ok i wille exercise extreme caution and not add limestone, can you explain what the function of limestone would have been? i know im askngt he questions but its just from reading and doing research, this is my first experience & quite a heavy handed one with the size of these palms. ahah with regard tot he starp vanda orchids yes they are thriving on the liquid fertilizers , ohhh noo as much as the palm would benefit from the immediate 20 min absorption rate of liquid fertilizers which i am giving them every 2 weeks as they are growing out new spheres(branches) from the center of the Bismarckia & there former owner seemed not to care for them as much in there past months as they have alot of yellow spotting on the old leaves, i am using the liquid fertilizer fro now & will do as you advide weekly or at least every 10 days casue in between i am also using antifungul kasumin and a teaspoon of superthrive for vitimin b , it does seem the palms need some revitalizing, the spheres are all silver , & a very light green foliage with more yello area than i would like but fortunately those leaves wil eventually fall off...Lord yes i do ned to get the 12 24 12 rooting fertilizer to apply cause having 4 massive 6"-9" bismarckia palms in 25 gallon barrels sure does consume my liquid fertilizer meant for my strap vanda orchids. i also wanted to ask is it ok to add thngs like epson salts into the mix with the nutrient express liquid fertilizer i am using now & kelp extract, i ususally mix them all together.. i wll make an effort to send photos and videos of the palms to you right now. please look out for my email in your inbox CHristopheryajeev@yahoocom, i had trouble attaching a video file last night but will try tonight..your adive is so appreciated

[@GreenDragan]

I would love to a photo of the palms. My personal email is [e-mail] My advise is to put the palms into the ground as soon as possible. As they mature it is more difficult to keep them happily growing in containers as these are naturally massive palms and you the owner watching their slow decline. There is no guaranteed method to repot large palms into an even larger container with the perfect growing medium long term without potentially killing them. Even when planting some field grown palm species to a new home nothing is 100% certain they will take. Best of luck.

[@wannabetropics1913]

If anyone can do it, it’s you! The bizzy is my favourite palm. Where did you get it from?

[@GreenDragan]

Thanks Wanna Be Tropics! I bought the palm in Kingsville On. from Capogna Flowers. Palms from 3 ft. tall to 18 ft..

[@davepolowick4535]

How is your Bismarck palm making out this winter? Are you covering the greenhouses over the few really cold nights?

[@GreenDragan]

Hi Dave. The palms have been covered since October with the greenhouses. Nothing extra is done to them throughout the winter. During colder days the bulbs stay on longer to reach the set temperature. The Bismarckia looks the same as when I packed it up in the fall, but we have several more minus 20 C nights coming up this week. Keep our fingers crossed.

[@davepolowick4535]

@@GreenDragan That's good news. During the really cold stretch a couple weeks ago, I put blankets and a tarp over my greenhouses, it seemed like the lights couldn't keep up. Hopefully tonight is the last cold one! Cheers

[@GreenDragan]

@@davepolowick4535 should the temps drop that low again tonight -21C, I hope the lights will offer some degree of protection so that it does not stay at or below freezing for too long a time. As the days get longer the morning sun should help warm the interior despite the outside being so cold. Cheers.

[@emilyL0ve]

wow, this is amazing!

[@GreenDragan]

Thank you so muchEmily's Toy Review!

[@jerryghoujalou5150]

Can you please let me know I plan to be smack palm in the ground but right now the leaves kind of gone down I wonder is it gone through to the shark or am I water in too much or not enough please let me know I’d be really appreciate thank you

[@GreenDragan]

Hi Jerry. So many questions... what zone, size or age of palm, what species, soil type, general climate????

[@bradsuarez2683]

We're always wanting what we can't have. Here I am living in the Caribbean where bismark grow like weeds but wishing I could grow red japanese maple and blue fat albert spruce.

[@GreenDragan]

Gardeners are always chasing a vision with their long term dreams for their personal slice of paradise regardless of where they live.

[@davepolowick4535]

Where do you purchase your panels to enclose the palms in the winter? Having a hard time finding them.

[@GreenDragan]

I purchased the panels from Omni Structures 18 Seapark Dr u4, St. Catharines, ON L2M 6S6

[@davepolowick4535]

@@GreenDragan okay, thank you. I have always used rigid insulation around the palms but I like the look of the panels better. Much appreciated

[@GreenDragan]

@@davepolowick4535 an additional benefit is the palms continue to grow a little through winter.

[@davepolowick4535]

@@GreenDragan Yes, I agree, with the foam enclosure I think they just go dormant. Thanks for your input, much appreciated!

[@davepolowick4535]

I switched from foam panels to the polycarbonate this year. I noticed a lot of moisture on the interior side, which is a concern with mildew. How do you control this? I am thinking of a mini fan to circulate the air, have you have this problem?

[@Rocketman0407]

This is not zone pushing, rather overwintering. Beatiful work nonetheless

[@GreenDragan]

When gardening in colder zones none of these palms would survive without winter protection. Any steps we take to help a plant thrive in a cooler climate than the plant is natively grown in is in my opinion zone pushing.

[@Rocketman0407]

@@GreenDragan A climate zone indicates the minimum temprature of a location. You palms does not experience anything close to the outside elements in terms of temprature in winter. Zone pushing is planting something maybe one or two zones out of the plants recommended growing zone without protection. Planting a hardy ecotype of Sabel Minor or Needle palm in good Microclimate would be Zone pushing in your climate.

[@jerryghoujalou5150]

Can you please tell me how much I water my Bismarck palm tree it’s on the 25 gallon pot and I’m on the same zone you are in Canada please let me know how to take care of it and what do you think if I planted in the ground I got clay soil give me some idea please

[@GreenDragan]

Water heavily till it runs out the drainage holes. During hot weather water again when the top inch or so is dry, water less often during cool weather and indoors during winter. I do not advise planting inground in zone 8A and less. This will lead to heart ache as I found out. In zone 5 the winter protection gets very complicated with our prolonged temperature extremes.

[@jerryghoujalou5150]

Thank you very much

[@evansbuilding9711]

How’s you bismarckia doing? I see Ontario has had some extremely cold temperatures

[@GreenDragan]

The Bismarckia looks good so far, unchanged since I wrapped it up. Our current temperature is 4C with no snow. Proper winter has not started yet. All that will change tonight with snow and minus temps.

[@evansbuilding9711]

@@GreenDragan what about the humidity in the cold frame are you doing anything about that? I’ve read that bismarcks don’t like to much humidity I no winter. I look forward to your spring video as Will hopefully give me confidence to plant my bismarckia in my tropical garden in southern England

[@GreenDragan]

@@evansbuilding9711 I am not having any humidity problems so far. The real test may be once we are getting -15 to -20C temps. The temp. inside the cold frame is regulated to stay above 7C and when the sun shines 20C plus. Eagerly awaiting spring.

[@evansbuilding9711]

@@GreenDragan I bet, good luck. I’ll be looking forward to seeing the results

[@jerryghoujalou5150]

Why am I Bismarck palm tree Coppola the leaves are green but they dried is it too much watering or not enough water please let me know

[@GreenDragan]

What zone, age of tree, in container or in soil??

[@jerryghoujalou5150]

@@GreenDragan it’s in the container and I have it inside. The house toward the leaves are dying. The rest looks nice. I don’t know what’s wrong with it.

[@jerryghoujalou5150]

@@GreenDragan Amazon five

[@jerryghoujalou5150]

@@GreenDragan I am in zone five

[@GreenDragan]

@@jerryghoujalou5150 if the bottom leaves die that is normal, especially indoors during winter. Do not over water during winter. This tree can take dry conditions. Cheers.