The Truth About Airbrushes for Mini Painting

[@TheCharismaed]

I have the exact 30$ airbrush myself. Using the exact same Liquitext opaque acyrlic white ink I came up with a recipe where it runs smoothly through the airbrush. It is 1 part of each: ink / water / airbrush thinner. I am using Vallejo thinner if that matters. Cheers to any 1 person who learns from this comment :)

[@BegaranAllmanhandling]

Thanks for the tip. I tried it and it works! From complete splatter to pretty smooth. Not as good as my current airbrush set (basically the mid range + compressor in the video) but for 30 dollars amazing. I'm gonna give my small one away to a friend and I'll mention it to him.

[@sepbla178]

are you able to control the flow to make decent highlights? I was thinking of priming black and building basic volume with 2 o 3 more shades on top of that.

[@BegaranAllmanhandling]

@@sepbla178 Controlling flow is difficult. I feel like this aribrush basically sprays the same amount of paint all the time. And as the video says, the spraying of air is constant and you can't control the airflow. But I found that darker colours spray quite well and have been able to do 2-3 basic shades/highlights with this one before going in to brush work. But it has been hit or miss, some colors (usually darker, any brand) seem to spray relatively well. With lighter colors it can be a splattery mess. Don't know why.

[@Colorcrayons]

No sir, cheers to YOU! Momma didnt raise a fool who could not learn from the efforts of others.

[@innocentBystander19]

Literally just got the exact same $30 one this. Not planning on airbrushing everything, but found certain projects I really need airbrush on. Had the speckling problem at first but changed the nozzles and tightened everything up and now we’re good. Not the best, but works for the price and will get you good gradients and zenithol.

[@salmanhamid9911]

I used one of those portable airbrushes for a full year. It works for priming and basecoats and it's helpful if you don't have space for a compressor like I didn't. But you'll have to figure out your own mixtures for thinning paints and primers. My primers had to be thinned or it would clog, and I had to spray from further or the thin primer would spiderweb. I don't regret using it as it taught me the basics. Eventually the little compressor died and I was able to upgrade.

[@Astartesparty]

My favorite videos are when you’re just painting things you enjoy and showing us your beautiful skills an how to aquire what you’re doing. ❤

[@DarthVZ]

Can confirm that expensive airbrushes are nicer to use, but the difference is not enormous (if you are not using a complete crap) and they will not magically make you a better painter

[@vamps_vids]

you will not be a better painter. from the expensive AB... but you won't get the hassle and problems with them also. They just works... I got 4 airbrushes 3 mediocre and a branded... And even If I got the branded one for the shortest period of time... I worked with it much more and had lot less problems like with the cheap ones. It is much easier to clean, don't have to take apart after every session ( lot of times I started with a clog on cheap ones, even if I completely clean them after the previous session) For me the H&S Ultra 2024 is a life changer.

[@iantellam9970]

For those apartment-dwellers among us, I've brush primed a lot of minis and I've had great results with Vallejo Black 'Mecha' Airbrush Primer. It's slightly glossy, but it gives a completely smooth finish and coverage is so good you (usually) only need one coat so it's fast. You can really just slap it on. Tbh I often prefer it to a rattle can because I actually seem to get a smoother finish with no chance of building up texture and it's just less hassle. I don't think the glossiness really matters for a primer layer. It's also hard wearing - I touched up a scuff on my car's wing mirror with it a year ago and it's still perfectly intact despite the rigours of the British weather lol. Obviously as a bonus when you do finally get an airbrush you can stick it through that.

[@Haste444]

I've got a basement workshop and live in MIssouri, I can't really paint because it's either A- Too humid in the summer or B- it's way too cold/damp in the winter. I picked up a a bottle of Vallejo primer about a week ago and man, I'm never gonna use a rattlecan again and probably don't know about getting an airbrush. Like you said it's a little glossy but I feel like I can get it on without loss of detail or too much pooling.

[@Cement666]

For trigger action smoothness try lubing it with wd40 PTFE spray. Worked for me like charm.

[@Thornspyre81]

That's good to know!

[@lectric]

I have the fengda (it came with the compressor) and the thing is a workhorse. I use it constantly for priming and basecoating and it still works like a charm. Absolute beast. For fine work I use a H&S Ultra, but damn the fengda is a beast.

[@beanlord4347]

I think it was Artus Opus who introduced me to drybrush stippling. It gives the same exact effect as an airbrush, just takes a little time. I like it over an actual airbrush for the control it offers.

[@syncopaint_minis3016]

They are nothing alike.

[@beanlord4347]

@@syncopaint_minis3016 As long as you're doing it lightly and letting each layer dry before going back over, it produces the same effect. I'd recommend trying it on vehicles.

[@dust7972]

... Where did you get the oni girl mini? what's that from, Looks like a great Mini.

[@ReynardCalcifius]

Got into mini painting after being a gunpla builder which an airbrush is basically a requirement, i don't think i could ever go without one for priming at the least, they're just worth it.

[@nickxx9729]

tau player here, you basically painting bunch of alien gundams, airbrush is must have, or you will suffer

[@hoshi314]

Priming and basecoating is fastest with airbrush. I don't really have a good spot for rattle cans and i tried hand brush priming, NOT RECOMMENDED

[@TheMiniJunkie]

Great video - yeah I think 3-3.5 mm is the sweet spot for detail work. 0.5 can be good for priming, and 0.2 just seems too small - too much clogging. I find I always go back to my Iwata Eclipse for almost everything (I think it's a 3mm).

[@abc123yoyo]

You are quickly becoming my fav painting creator. 😂 love the humor and the content.

[@petervansan1054]

I bought 50 eur portable aribrush. It was horrible. I tossed it and bought cheap chinese airbrush kit. Infinitely better...

[@RowdyTheHitman]

Never get the portable air brush. Amazon does a beginner airbrush and a good air compressor kit, when you graduate from the beginner airbrush then you can replace that and keep the air compressor

[@TheJagerMo]

I'm using the tank from the 40 euro airbrush with a 70 Euro H&S ultra solo - works surprisingly well, but I had to add some tape to get the seals airtight. (Edit: I got an USB c kompressor with 2 models, low and high - still not as good as a proper compressor, but needs way less room)

[@CatastrophicNickName]

Had the same experience

[@Trinioutsider34]

Aren’t thos also Chinese made?

[@RowdyTheHitman]

@@Trinioutsider34 my compressor was made in Germany, not sure about the airbrush but probably Chinese

[@chrisbeau76]

The patriot 105 from badger is a fantastic starter hairbrush. Despite having a .5 nozzle, it’s a war horse that lays down priming and basing while also being durable and you are able to change out the nozzle sizes once you feel like you can do some detail work. I picked up the new Harder & Steenbeck 2024 Ultra which only costs $120 and has a crazy amount of features such as a dial that you can turn to priming mode, basing mode and it even has some additional settings for zenithal priming. The needle bends back into position, and when you try to slide it back in after cleaning, it has a mechanism that prevent it from bending the tip if you miss the opening where you slide the needle back in. It starts off with a .4 nozzle but the airbrush was designed to be modular so there will be additional add-ons and other parts that will improve or add functionality. And despite the needle size being .4, they said that it can still do some pretty decent detail work if you change dial settings and you have the PSI set to a certain number which I believe is 25 psi

[@Colorcrayons]

It's times like this when I wish i could book mark comments. But I have to save it in a text file somewhere now instead. That sounds like a great price for a brush with such adjustments.

[@Fexen_minis]

Hi zumikito, this is a great video! Can I ask where you got the mini from in the video at 5:32? It’s super cool and I’m always after cool minis/stl files for display painting. Thanks 😊

[@Zumikito]

It is from Limbo Division 209, but can't remember the name of that particular model

[@kaneblaireau4864]

I got one of the $50 air brushes and it does great. No spatter, even coverage.

[@sepbla178]

which one?

[@90brooksy]

Hey everyone, brush on priming can be fast, easy and more effective. Use a very big size brush, thin the paint to a wash consistency, paint all over and then use a med size brush to remove pooling. This will give you clarity on the model itself and the whole surface will have been keyed (primed) and ready for painting.

[@FreshCoatKustoms]

I got an airbrush/compressor set from Amazon for about 80€. It helped me a lot. Now I upgraded to an H&S Ultra '24 and once I get used to it, I'm sure it will be even better of an experience.

[@Tosicc567]

Personally I just went from a cheap Chinese airbrush with a portable compressor and it was great to get into airbrushing. Definitely had it's limitations and the compressor didn't keep the air pressure up all the time but it was a great way to learn. I've upgraded to a cheap as compressor and harder and steenbeck entry level airbrush and man was I blown away. I don't think I would be as blown away if I hadn't already learnt how to airbrush on a cheaper kit. So I'd recommend to anyone wanting to get into it to get an all in one cheap kit to get into it and actually learn how to use and clean it. Then once you outgrow it like I did move up and you'll really notice the difference and appreciate it! It is mind-blowing how useful they are! Also I got the airbrush in ninjons vid, I think it was like $120 AUD. Not exactly cheap but better than the other cheap AIO ones I've seen. I still use it for priming and my harder and steenbeck for details

[@ZzzyaxTheCuber]

I literally have his exact recommended setup for a year now, can confirm it is amazing. I might have got the 0.4mm instead of 0.3mm I can’t remember. Looking for a more precise airbrush in future but for priming and zenithal it’s so good for the money.

[@kevinsimard]

Hi I was wondering if i could use my home compressor to run an air brush? Yes I have a pressure regulator. What pressure do they run on ?

[@LegionaireSiggi]

I was given a similar kit several years ago (Masters airbrush with compressor and tank). And I will confirm that going mid-range is the way to go. You don't feel as bad if you somehow trash the airbrush when a new one is like $30-50 bucks. I still haven't figured out why I have splattering issues with my replacement but still worth it over destroying a $200 when you don't clean the varnish out correctly.

[@SetsunaKai5]

I have 3 Airbrushes: Harder & Steenbeck Infinity: For lacquer paints Iwata Eclipse HP-CS: For acrylics Iwata Eclipse HP-CS (old): For enamels

[@rotwang2000]

Things have changed a little bit in recent years as there are now very decent cheap brushes on the market, but the rule used to be that if you bought a cheap airbrush chances was that you would regret it badly since the difference between a cheap one and a good one was light and day and buying a cheap brush only meant you had to spend even more money for a good one and had lots of regret about the cheap one. Not everyone can invest in an airbrush, but given what it can do, and if you can afford it buying a good airbrush with a compressor is a must if you are serious about painting and modelling.

[@BinxyBrown]

Have not watched the video yet but my answer is yes, it saves so much time base coating and priming, if you use citadel primers it will pay for itself in like 2-3 years also. If you use Rust-Oleum primer it still pays for itself in time savings

[@Itsallover57]

I use that exact black primer with my brush and don't get texture but I also don't use my primer as an undercoat. I come at priming with the mindset of, its just to get other paint to stick easier, so I use as little as possible. I hate priming. I went to the brush for as much control as possible.

[@kud5659]

I use the master airbrush with a master airbrush compressor and it works well for army painting. Just make sure clean it regularly. I've had mine for 2 years with no issues.

[@maverickman6486]

I might be an uncultured heathen, but I use my shop air compressor because I already have it and it works. Just needed to put the air regulator on with a regular size quick connect and everything else is the same. I probably don't do long sessions so it's not an issue, but the tank holds enough air that I never had to run the compressor during my paint sessions so zero noise.

[@thrrax]

I've never ever experienced pooling with brush-on primer (Vallejo German Panzer Grey is my go to). People are either using the wrong stuff for that, or they don't know how to properly do it. Use stippling if you're afraid it will pool.

[@GinjaBadger]

I have the Evolution CRPlus 2 in 1. It's absolutely brilliant at everything I want to do with it.

[@ElPrezAU]

A note regarding putting primer through a .2 mm needle - try Molotow All4One Goes through the airbrush without additional thinning and has no clogging. It also gives you a far smoother finish than any other primer I’ve used - and I’ve used EVERYTHING. All4One is peerless. Also it’s an Inifinity CR Plus that I use for priming (at least for smaller figures, I switch to a larger needle airbrush when doing large figs - not because of clogging, just because it’s faster)

[@richardpeace3292]

Thanks for this, ive been looking at airbrushes for over year but was unsure of whether i'd be paying above for the tool I actually need... this has helped a lot to give me a decent budget...Thankyou

[@Harakiri404]

I bought a dual action airbrush and a portable compressor that can handle that, works perfectly for 2 years now.

[@Ryza_d]

Great vid Zumi! I use a paint brush for everything, but it doesn't bother me because I don't mind taking a long time to paint my dudes. I'm not in a rush to get armies painted, and I don't mind if they aren't display worthy. Maybe one day I'll take the dive, but not today.

[@davidc3150]

Should primer be diluted before airbrushing? If yes the same way any acrylic paint or with sth especific? I have always used rattle cans but they tend to clog

[@Wi11iamNZ]

I bought a $75 NZ dollar airbrush/compressor combo like the cheap nasty one in this video, however it is dual action and 3mm. I have to say for the price and ease of use i can't really fault it. I always wanted to try airbrushing but due to my living situation and limited space i didn't want to buy an expensive rig. I have learnt so much in a short amount of time and in has been an invaluable tool, it has elevated my painting to a whole new level. I'm glad i learnt on a cheap setup because when i finally do upgrade to a nicer one i have developed all the necessary skills to both paint with and care for/clean an airbrush. Lastly i think its important to add that airbrushing has been a great supplemental tool to improve/support my brush work, not replace it. I encourage all noobies such as myself to just buy a cheap but decent dual action/compressor combo and have a go, you will be pleasantly surprised.

[@stephenshields4095]

I just bought the 250$ squidmar Evolution 2024 CRplus , as my first ever airbrush , I didn’t want to buy a cheapo brush and hate the experience. I really am glad I watched this video as I feel better about shelling out the $$ for a more advanced but easier to use brush.

[@rogue_of_the_winds1286]

As someone who's only been painting for 5 months, I haven't and probably won't ever use an airbrush. I like the time it takes, and the time I spend with each model. I don't want to complicate things, and so far I've done incredibly well thinning my paint and applying very smooth.

[@BegaranAllmanhandling]

I have basically the mid range airbrush + compressor in this video and it's wonderful. Can't imagine myself painting anything without an airbrush anymore. I think the 30 dollar one, which I had before getting a proper one, is fine for that price. What I used it for was mostly priming and varnishing and it worked great for that. The odd thing is that some colors sprayed really nicely while others didn't. Purple, dark green, dark / midtone grey and so on worked nicely with minimal splatter (purple was even completely smooth). But lighter colors could be a complete mess for no good reason, same brand, same amount of thinning, sprays completely different.

[@pentaura7552]

Чувак, ты просто невероятный художник, твои работы мотивируют меня совершенствовать свои навыки росписи. Спасибо тебе за уроки и удачи в будущих проектах!

[@Fortunes.Fool.]

I got a really cheap dual action airbrush with a USB compressor and it shoots paint EVERYWHERE. What PSI are you running to prime, paint, and varnish?

[@flagoon]

I bought similar to the one Ninjon have (it cost me 50$ thou). I'm super happy with it. I'm using it mainly for priming and setting main color on bigger minis. It works fine for me, and I have sufficient level of control. But I also have access to a 'real' model compressor, and the difference is HUGE. For sure I'll be buying one, when this one breaks. The compressor/airbrush I bought is called Casubari if anyone is interested.

[@Abrahamhasnoname]

Yeah I got it for $40. It was really good for that price.

[@ratatatuff]

I was looking for a decent airbrush and this video helped me a lot. Thanks!

[@farpointgamingdirect]

I have that $30 airbrush. Mine also blew air constantly. All I had to do was pull out the needle and reseat it. It now works fine

[@lundjesper]

How much difference does the needle cap do to the splattering of paint. I noticed when trying the cheap airbrush at 6:30 there was no needle cap? Just curious.

[@El-Rico]

Great vid, thanks for sharing. Now where can I get that one miniature? You know the one I mean. Asking for a friend.

[@RequiemWraith]

As a fellow Infinity owner, I'd look at picking up the 0.4mm needle and nozzle set, you could say goodbye to the issues with primer clogging. It's what I use for individual models (priming batches of models I'd still use a can though for speed)

[@minipancho94]

whats your set up for airbrushing indoors? One of the reasons i've been waiting on it is because I dont have space to build a spray booth.

[@keptinjack]

I use Gaahleri airbrushes after a bunch of £13 ones, and they are a big step up. My H&S barely sees daylight these days 😅

[@vitaliyred622]

I need that "I love edging" shirt! Some GW employees would love it.

[@johnathanrhoades7751]

Yes you do need an airbrush and an Iwata Eclipse is quite an excellent endgame airbrush. But a cheaper brush works nicely for priming, base coating, varnishing, etc. I would love an Infinity at some point, but not for a while.

[@Marcesat01]

Do you use a spray booth to inside your room or what safety do you use to do airbrush ?

[@brendanarmstrong7802]

I have a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution as well as a Grex Tritium. I can confirm that while I get more precise control out of the H&S, it's a pain and a half to clean. It clogs regularly, and I need to wrench the needle out with serious force at the start of every airbrush session, because no matter how much I cleaned it before, it always manages to get stuck again. The Tritium, on the other hand, is ultra-comfortable and a breeze to clean, only really needing a proper clean every 5 sessions or so. But it's also a pistol trigger, so you're never going to get the ultra-precise control with it you'd get with an H&S. You'd really need an air modulator attached to the bottom of the airbrush to get close. With that said, despite the H&S being a custom-engraved splurge gift to myself, if I could only keep one I'd keep the Grex without question.

[@itcho_boy_rob3064]

I’m relatively new to model making. But I can say that when I was a caricature artist for several years, my boss really encouraged us to use airbrushes (and he was an absolute beast with one). I preferred to use pastels, paint brushes, and colored pencils the whole time and got great results. Yes it took more time but the results were phenomenal. I think it really is artists preference. I will say though I have yet to paint a whole army and maybe airbrushes would’ve helped me break that barrier

[@maqywhaq]

I got a similar type of airbrush as your cheap example, and didn't have that issue. On the other hand, I had a sotar 20/20 that did that... After trying to disassemble the sotar to try to fix it, I noticed the thing was rusty inside the nozzle and the valve that should activate the air flow wasn't working and jammed as well. Needless to say, I no longer have that airbrush, but also that sometimes(with how the internet market is like right now), you may run into bad sales channels that may be passing off poor quality or entirely bootlegged goods as real ones...

[@GoufinAround_]

For priming single action is totally fine because you can just spray like its a rattle can where you start on the mini then finish off the mini. Sure you're wasting paint because it's still coming out after you're not like pointing at the mini anymore. Also, as you found, a 0.2mm nozzle is way too small for priming. If you have an airbrush that has excellent atomization, like the gaahleri mobius, you can get away with 0.3mm for primer, but I recommend a 0.4 or 0.5mm nozzle for primers. Cause you shouldn't thin primer, you should buy one that can used straight from the bottle like the pro acryl primer or the ak one

[@Sarah-zb5it]

Iwata Closeout has Iwata Eclipse HP-SBS for $75, 174 available currently. Add a cup adapter (side-gravity) and you have an incredible airbrush for around $100 shipped.

[@Dalmango]

Thumbs up immediately for the jumper

[@SherlockSpiner]

I use an Iwata eclipse with the tankless version of the compressor used in the video, I would say the eclipse is the best of both worlds as I can prime my minis well enough and I can be precise if I need to be. Also started out with 40 dollar portable airbrush lol

[@kudosbudo]

if you want the quicker version of the brush technique the artist opus dry brush tech for 0bject lightning is way faster and would partially cover the effect you are going for with the glazing all in one.

[@markdorn8873]

Long ago I bought an "El Cheapo" Master brand airbrush and compressor as a set. 0.35mm nozzle, dual action... it's OK. Not very easy to clean, and I'm still trying to figure out how to do fine detail work with it, but it's been a Godsend when it comes to painting vehicles, priming, and basecoating infantry models. It's quite a time saver. Worth it just for that, though I still wonder if a better airbrush or compressor would help. May not be worth the diminishing returns...

[@KDB1042]

I got an airbrush after your recommendation last year, picking up the cheap one you recommended. I ended up having to toss it after having numerous issues out of the gate (clogging, needle had been poorly milled and splatter) and bought a Harder & Steenbeck Ultra. It would have been about £20 more had I bought the compressor on it's own and now I have the option between a 0.2 nozzle & 0.4, meaning that I can do both priming and regular work by changing the needle, nozzle and cap. (Just a heads up btw @Zumikito, that beast of an airbrush you have also supports changing nozzle, cap and needle to a 0.3-0.4 so you can get more use out of it to save it sitting in the box!) I know cost is a massive issue, especially for a new tool that you will need to have to learn from scratch, but the extra money was worth it. Purely for the ability to get replacement parts as I'd KO'ed the needle almost immediately and didn't need to fork out for a new airbrush. I think a lot of stores are attempting to dump stock with the 2023 version being released so you might be able to find it for the same price as the setup in the description. I agree though, while an airbrush isn't *required*, Jesus H Christ on a bike it's saved me at least 5 hours doing a number of incredibly monotonous tasks (priming, highlights, glaze) on monotone units. For that, I absoutely thank you for the kick up the arse to pony up for one!

[@samael.projects]

You should suggest getting Harder & Steelback Ultra 2024, the perfect mid-range airbrush.

[@TrepidDestiny]

I have a similar compressor with the storage tank. That thing is awesome. For my airbrushes, I have two cheap $20 airbrushes I got from harbor freight that have been absolutely AMAZING for the price. Then I have an IWATA Revolution as my "higher end" airbrush. I used quotes because I spend more time taking apart and cleaning that abomination than I do using it. But my $20 airbrushes? Absolute troopers.

[@Keram-io8hv]

I "inherited" airbrush from relative, used it on primiming minis and it is great Only little problem is the fact that compressor can't automatically turn off when full so Iam bit cautious around it

[@Vitala_Tapok]

I've got not 1 but 2 premium airbrushes, and i love the control they give me, so much so that i would use them whenever possible, NMM? Of course! Painting something small? Sure! But i am not very representative, as my control of paint thickness and how to work with that on a mini is very bad, but 2 years of more or less regular usage of the airbrush before i started miniature painting is sure making the airbrush the most familiar and "go to" tool in my arsenal

[@Slayphiroth]

So far I am totally happy with dry brushing the light effects, I also don't really like the idea of not using a brush (from a fun level)

[@SliverCreations]

I use my Infinity CR plus for priming but then I put in the 0.4 nozzle. But I also use Vallejo Mecha Primer as Base. Not the normal one.

[@nikolaosstavrou5327]

Hey Zumikito use flow improover when using inks, they flow better. and if you want cheap flow improover use diswasher rince liquid, its the same thing and cheaper!

[@only1symo]

Yes I too have the infinity and learned that it really hates priming (especially the 0.15 nozzle), I have a cheap fengda one for priming and basing. Although I might upgrade to the new h&s ultra with the fancy settings.

[@Ceiling_Gato]

I've been using the Casubaris USB airbrush from Amazon for couple of years now, I have limited hobby space so proper compressor and setup is not an option. It works perfectly fine for priming, zenithal and varnishing, never had any issue.

[@mikefisher8563]

Everyone I know who does any type of airbrushing is using an Iwata eclipse as an all a rounder ..My self included.It’s trouble free and parts are available everywhere..Not cheap and not the most expensive but I can say that they are the best in every category.

[@oleww50]

I have these exact 2 airbrushes that connect to the compressor, and honestly the Harder & Steinbeck Infinity is such a pain in the ass! Compared to the total work horse “cheap” airbrush that came with the compressor. It’s quite a regret purchase really.

[@leforestierdamien877]

i have bith cheap airebruish and an expensive one, and the main difference in the trigger is thatg as it is stiffer on ethe premium one, i feel a reall difference when i go full on tha paint or just a bit, but on the cheap one, you feel no resistance, and i have a hard time getting the same paint consistenci from one pull to the newt one. it can be countered if you have teh screw to limit the paint flow or air flow, the you adjust on the screw and always go all in. but yes now i only use my cheap airbrush for primer and zenital, and when i want to apply filter or make a color gradiant, i go for teh expensive one. pro tip, buy an 5-10€ quick release for your airbrush to switch fast

[@Sarah-zb5it]

Yeah, my cheapie has to be pulled practically fully back before there's any paint flow, and then it's quite heavy. It's okay for primer, though it can come out thicker than necessary, but even zenithal is difficult for it. My fingers also get much more fatigued using it rather than my eclipses

[@theandf]

I would say the one caveat when speaking of the "speed" of airbrushes is... that much like 3D printing, airbrushes are a hobby into themselves. They require proper care, cleaning, there are tons of accessories for them (yes, even for cheap mid-range airbrushes), there are tons of conflicting advice about what compressors and what couplings and how to take care of them and the proper technique (the "naive" way of using an dual action airbrush will clog it pretty fast) and bent tips and disassembly of some airbrushes is an artform unto itself, whereas the good old brush might be slower to apply but everyone pretty much understands how it works and how to clean it, and it requires no disassembly or additional props :)

[@nassozeebo]

Thanks for a great video. :) Doesn't thinning the paint down more help with the "sploshes"? I just ordered a "dog shit" airbrush. :) It cost me $17 (free shipping). My plan is to use it for priming and base coating. I have just started out in the hobby. I only have a black primer, and no other spray cans. The cost of this airbrush is the cost of another can... I'm hoping that this allows me to prime models inside. I will need to buy some primer (thinking black), and some cleaner/thinner. First, I'll prime blank and then I'll base coat some with the airbrush and thinned out versions of my regular model paints. That way I can get a majority of the space-marine-blue or ork-skin-green down on the model without a brush before bringing out the brush, base coating other colors, touching up, washing, highlighting, dry brushing etc. I think that could save a bunch of time and be fun to try. For $17! And it takes up nearly no space. I'm also planning to buy a 3D printer an build a ton of terrain that I want to paint. I really think the airbrush could help there. And there is nothing stopping me from spending $100-$200 on a "proper airbrush kit", later. :)

[@TomPaintsMinis]

Same issue I have to be honest. I have a H&S Ultra and it clogs constantly, dry tip etc. I have a £15 airbrush that I use in exactly the same way with no issues. I genuinely find myself reaching for the cheap one more often these days as even trying to do more detailed work with the H&S can become a chore when it clogs 2 minutes in and I'm having to strip it back to clean it.

[@philgee486]

My compressor is very similar to yours, with a few accessories added to make life easier (second water trap, quick releases, in line pressure adjusting valve), I still use the cheap 0.5 that came with it for priming and it clogs much less in this role than my other brushes. I meant to upgrade to a premium airbrush for detail but in two years I've only ever upgraded to a £40 multi needle size chinese knock off and it behaves so beautifully that I can't justify £200+ I keep upgrading my 3D printer instead

[@HuntersOA]

I do some other kinds of modelling works as a side hustle and last time I almost got tendonitis from airbrushing too much with a crappy airbrush. For this reason, my wife got me a decent large one for christmas. I also have a precision one with 0.2 - Harder Evolution CR - which is ill suited for large works. The new one is a badger patriot 105 with 0.5mm nozzle. It is amazing. It can do very precise things, but can also cover large areas. And it have yet to clog on me. Last weekend I painted with it for about 7 hours with about a 5 minute brake and it never clogged. The 0.2 harder clogs some times, but I was just... Blown away. I think larger nozzles sizes just tend not to clog that much? Regardless, the precision 0.2 is just not OK for priming :D

[@redgreenbluehex]

Bro -- you can get the .4 needle for that premium airbrush and it works great.

[@vukovicore1030]

I was also looking for Ninjon's model or something alike, however I bought an almost the same kit for around 40$, which for a beginner and a first try at a new tool, is a fair price. Also, storage for a big compressor which is around 130$ here is a big problem for someone who lives with other people in a flat. So anyone interested, try searching for TM80s or TM100 airbrush kits. Also, some good mid range airbrushes have been Neoeco ones which come with extra needles. Cheers for the video, the speeding up for said processes is the main reason I opted to try airbrushing for an entry level price.

[@skraaj007]

I got into airbrushing recently (mostly for indoor priming and varnishing), but I noticed that the compressor is absolutely crucial. Tried Tamiya Compact and it wasn't viable even for priming. One I got TC-20 with a tank the same low-range airbrush became viable for more than priming.

[@Gakusangi]

A $40 to $50 portable, rechargeable airbrush will handle most priming and basing, but you might have to baby it a little because of how cheap the airbrush is and ALWAYS make sure it's a dual-action airbrush you're getting. You can probably eke out a bit more PSI if your portable compressor isn't battery operated and you have to plug it in and you might find one of those for even cheaper, some even come with an airbrush too. I started with a battery one, but eventually moved on to a Master compressor for about $140 to $150 with a tank to reduce some of the noise. Along with one of their better airbrush kits for like $40 It's been a dream for my model painting. I can recommend Gaahleri and Master airbrushes for giving you something that will work well for a low cost. As for by hand priming... I use Pro Acryl's Coal Black to prime some things by hand if I wanna just use them for testing or something. It's usually pretty fast, easy and covered well.

[@komma8203]

Harder&steenbeck makes 2 in 1 sets for both the Evolution and infinety, and they come with 0.15/0.2mm and a 0.4mm needle and they remade all the brushes, big improvments, i will be picking up a new one even though I got both the infinety cr pluss and the Evolution AL pluss. But youll be lucky to find it as cheep as 200 euros now, its more 250-300 now. New video about the new brushes on there channel now

[@derekgarcia3069]

I was a bit dumb and my first airbrush was a bday gift to.mysrkf, and it was the Cult of Paint Infinity. I definitely dont use it tonits full potential yet, and sometimes wish id satrted with a cheaper one. That said, itndoes come with a 0.4mm need to primes ok, and after holding an H&S Uktra, that aluminum body on the CoP Infinity is really nice for longer sessions, even if im just priming.

[@joseadrianguimaraynz8671]

I have a iwatta for 50$ and works perfect For tinny details 0.3mm , the middle Range of price is perfect but a have a Nice compresor

[@chrispygingerpie]

I have the H&S evolution and I’m considering getting the ultra for priming and zenith highlights and using the evo for details for the same reason as your infinity.

[@danielrobinson5384]

The coded inuendo in your designs is 😘👌

[@ninav3454]

Dude the amount of work you've done behind the scenes to be better on camera, make your accent more understandable and made your presence generally more professional is crazy! Hats off, good stuff!

[@sisterkatherine3409]

What model were you painting at 11:50?

[@Spunnacazz]

Great video, few days ago my cheap airbrush started to go all dalmatian on me, and even if i disassembled and cleaned twice it's still wonky, so i had to slapchop my way on my kdm miniatures. For now it's ok, but i'll consider a propres airbrush setup in the future

[@animalyze7120]

That $30 airbrush set is for Inks, Watercolors and Acrylics as is that .2 H&S. Seeing as Harder, Sparmax, GSI are all owned by Iwata now you can pretty much decide only by their prices as with any other brand. It's not so much the price but the skill that makes or breaks the project. I have an Infinity cr, and Eclipse and a Patriot 105 and the 105 gets the most use, quality to adaptability it beats the others hands down, easy needle, nozzle changes go from .3 to .7 in seconds flat. You can't do that with H&S or Iwata and a good polishing of the needle will bring even a $25 master airbrush right up to spec with the others.

[@hoshi314]

Just changed my compressor, it really is the true hero but don't forget to care for BOTH compressor and airbrush (some call them penbrush cuz airbrush is the whole package).

[@L337LYC4N]

I’ve been using the rattle cans for priming and I don’t think I’ll be going back. It’s quick and easy, even if some of them are a bit over priced

[@Thornspyre81]

I still use rattle cans when priming multiple models at once. There's just no better/quicker way to do several at a time.

[@jackbrownii]

Better than a compressor is a compressed CO2 tank. Nice, solid brass regulator on the tank and it will drive an airbrush for a long time. You will never have water in the line and it's dead silent. Easily refilled/traded in at welding supply stores.

[@AcoylteKraven82]

For the most part, I agree with you. Airbrushing is faster than most other options (depending on what you’re doing) but also you can get way better looks with a airbrush then with a paint brush! But I feel like if you know what you’re doing or you actually have someone that knows what they’re doing that will help you airbrush is the way to go! If not……. I don’t know what to tell you!?! I don’t and I’ve watched all the “how to” videos and the “what to do if” videos and still can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong! Because they can’t tell you what’s wrong with “your” spray gun without looking at “your” spray gun!!! But I also never bought the $200+ ones before! I can’t afford that sh!t!!!

[@syilandel]

Were you are aware that you can change the needle and nozzle on your Infinity and that will let you prime with it? Airbrushes are just like brushes, different sizes (needles and nozzles) for different tasks.

[@Zumikito]

Yes, I had 0.15 before and it was impossible to use

[@asrielovania1242]

i love your berserk background!!

[@Dummythxc]

the cheap one with the compressor on it i use for prime and varnish works alright for 30$