ZX9R [E] Removing the fairings for servicing..

[@FracturedAirsoft]

Thanks for the vid man! Ironically this helped me assemble the fairings after buying the bike with none.

[@thatguytyftw7643]

Same😂😂😂how much did you pay

[@bccapone837]

Appreciate the vid , just wondering what oil you use in the zx9r , I was going to use motul 300v 10w40 would that be ok do you think. I've noticed some forums saying don't use fully synthetic oils with molybdenum in them as wet clutch slipping problems , the 300v factory only has 26ppm and even some normal mineral oils have more ppm than that , I know the castrol p1 10w40 only has 2ppm which is probably better for a wet clutch, I'll be honest tho I've always used good quality fully synthetic oils in a wet clutch and never had bad affects , what's your thoughts or any experience with that and the additives in oils with wet clutches

[@mcycle24]

Not had any problems I always use motorcycle specific oils in my bikes never had clutch slip even using full synthetic.

[@bccapone837]

@@mcycle24 thank you for the feedback 👍🏼

[@bccapone837]

@@mcycle24sorry to bother you again with just another quick question , I'm struggling to find a radiator guard for the e2 or any zx9r , I was wondering if that's something you have done on yours like made one or anywhere to buy one , or have you left your radiator stock , I'm just worried about stones and I think I might have to make one , any advice would be great , thanks again for the videos on the zx9s

[@mcycle24]

@@bccapone837 Nobody makes. Radiator guard for, them as far as I know, You can get fenda extender for front mudguard instead.

[@bccapone837]

@@mcycle24 good shout thanks

[@johnmcgartland8935]

Hi mate can you show me how you routed your throttle cables ,cleaned my carbs on my zx9r e model now cant get my throttle too snap back? thanks john

[@mcycle24]

john mcgartland Hi, throttle cables are shown in my other video, Removing the carbs.

[@justwhenyouthought6119]

What are the four pots on the front calipers pls ? What did they come from and do they make a difference ? Yours looks in great nik !

[@mcycle24]

just whenyouthought They came off a Triumph 1050, I ground the Triumph logo off and refurbished with new seals, They work brilliant.😎

[@justwhenyouthought6119]

@@mcycle24 Thx what does yours idle at ?

[@jessevanderheijden5208]

Is it possible to install new indicator lights without removing the fairings?

[@mcycle24]

No, The front fairing has to come off to get access to the wiring connectors.

[@samgrady5614]

Os it possible to remove the bottom fairing without taking off one of the sides?

[@mcycle24]

Sam Grady Yes I do that when changing the oil and filter.

[@samgrady5614]

@@mcycle24 thanks man!

[@brianmaclennan561]

I nearly sh÷t myself when that nose came off. I have to do same to fix a broken indicator....

[@tonymontana897]

The rubber holder part you mean ? Mine literally cracked in half due to the poor quality rubber. Bad design to be honest. I think the new ones you get from Kawasaki are made from better material. I ordered a dozen to keep some in stock.

[@HalfdeadRider]

@@tonymontana897 It's most likely the age of the originals, even if looked after the rubber will eventually start to break down and get brittle.

[@tonymontana897]

@@HalfdeadRider I have a couple of 1983 Hondas in my garage with a similar indicator set up, made from rubber, are still original from that time period and still holding up strong. I hate to say it, but Kawasaki used a poor quality rubber when they made these, because they shouldn't really break down and split to be honest. The design was flawed too. Previous Gen ZX9R's had a metal shaft all the way through to keep it all together, but these are totally reliant upon the rubber itself to do all the work which will contribute to fatigue over time in addition to an already compromised rubber formulation. I Also compared the broken ones to the new Original Kawasaki replacements, and the feel and rigidity is much better than the original issue ones. I do believe they secretly updated the rubber formula for these at some point later. My left side indicator has also just decided to break (It's original) and now it's just hanging there. Did the right side a couple of years ago, still as new. I am also a firm believer in using a protectant for all or any rubber parts. (NOT TYRES), such as hoses, these indicator rubbers etc to keep them from drying out over time. I use Aerospace 303 for this and all my rubber is as new, soft and pliable.

[@HalfdeadRider]

​@@tonymontana897 My ZX9r is in great condition, no cracks in the rubbers on mine, but mine sat for seven years. It's also my second Kawasaki and know many people who own them, including ZX12's and other older Kwaks. If maintained they are great although more stainless steel on some models would be nice, but again not a problem on well looked after bikes. Rubbers can last longer too if greases occasionally with silicon grease to stop them drying out, but also the conditions they are kept in will affect this too.

[@tonymontana897]

@@HalfdeadRider 100%. Correct storage is a must. I have two covers on mine not just one. I'll have to post up some pics of my E2 to your instagram when I get a chance. Don't worry, I won't forget bro. I have also recently spent a few grand on purchasing brand new Genuine Kawasaki parts because many of these parts will become obsolete, and there are many obsolete already. Throttle grips, foot peg stays, clutch and brake levers, new ignition key switch, clutch cable, every conceivable fairing nut, screws, washers, labels, fuel tap, fuel lines, indicator rubber mounts, engine side covers, gaskets,brake fluid reservoirs, caps with seals, plus much much more. When you can't buy any more of these at Kawasaki, many will use aftermarket, which I hate and never put on this particular machine. I aim to preserve it for for the future. It may just end up being the lowest original mile bike in the world lol. It only has 4,399 KLMS on the ODO and I don't plan to run it into the ground. I will buy another machine for riding. This baby will be a pristine minty show piece. It doesn't have a nick, scratch, chip or dents anywhere. When I say it's mint, it is literally still a brand new bike. Maintenance is always carried out to keep it in perfect order. All the fluids get flushed regularly etc, placed on a trickle charger and started periodically. Fuel tank is kept full to stop condensation with the addition of a fuel stabiliser. I refresh the fuel every 12 months. She is simply too beautiful to waste. Nice to chat with a fellow enthusiast. I totally understand your love for this machine. They don't make them like this anymore.

[@rob.1963]

I have an F2, the front indicator rubbers have split and need replacing, so I have to remove the ENTIRE fairing to replace them, what a faff.

[@mcycle24]

robin walford One of mine got broken clean off when I hit a Pheasant on the road, So I’m going to replace mine with some flush fit Led ones.

[@markharris1468]

To change the led in between the headlamps, can I get to it by removing the screen, or do I have to take the entire nose fairing off? Cheers.

[@mcycle24]

Mark Harris Should be able to do it with just the screen removed.

[@blackZX9NINJA]

Hey off of what bike did you get the four pots front calibers that fit the E model

[@Tinsley68]

I've got a 98 c1 model with split indicators as well, so I watched this to get an idea how to remove them, now I'll have to work out the sequence to refit them! Thanks for the video

[@alberthunt8501]

How do you put on the tail fairing

[@handeoksum1263]

Im here for know how front end look when i do stunt bike