wish you just put them side by side and let us see the differences , instead of moving around 100 miles per second !

I replaced the carb on my Tecumseh 5-hp engine. The engine would start only with starting fluid. I replaced it with a non-adjustable carb from Pro Chaser /Amazon The engine starts and runs fine until I put it under a load. It does not have enough power to run the auger and the drive. Do I need to replace the new carb with an adjustable one or what?

I recommend using True Advantage Tru fuel 40:1 pre mix gas

Hey man, I recommend using the non Ethanol pump gas ⛽️

I love the name but I will stick with the older motors .

I'm working on one. I took the carb off but can't remember where the spring bolts back on. Can u help

It is a great snowblower that 521, probably one of the best, blows all types of snow 🦬

Hell, I'd kill for that much space in my garage, LOL! Mine was built in 1940 and is a 1.5 car garage. Yours looks massive in comparison :)

That looks a lot like my 1965 Ariens 10M4 :) I think my auger gearbox is a bit beefier than that one's, and mine's a 24 inch instead of a 22 inch. These old models are beasts and will run forever, lol. Mine is 60 years old now and still going strong.

Another good way to get sludge out of a crankcase on these old engines is to put a couple ounces of kerosene in the crankcase with the oil. Just don't rev the engine and let it idle at it's slowest for about ten minutes. It does the same thing as Motor Flush, but is a whole lot cheaper. I add about a pint to my car/truck engines crankcases and let them idle before I change my oil and it keeps them sludge free.

Get ya a turkey baster and keep it in the garage. Makes it a bit easier to move those unexpectedly full cups and tubs of fuel, etc. without spilling anything. After draining that watery oil, I'd put a bottle of 91% syringe alcohol down the crankcase for a bit as it will dry out that water left inside it, then just drain out the alcohol before adding fresh oil. It does the same thing as Heet does in a fuel line or gas tank...takes the water out and it's like 2 bucks for a big bottle of it at Walmart.

My adjustable carb kept leaking from the dump and I got tired of replacing the gasket so I changed it to one of these - problem solved. New one works great! FYI - don't use the cheap plastic parts and the included fuel lines though. They cracked in the cold on the first winter.

As someone who has used soap and water to clean stuff like PCBs: I wouldn't dunk an engine in a pool of water. There's a lot of really tight machining in them, and the insides are almost always _bare metal surfaces._ It'll _probably_ be fine, but still. Unpowered electronics don't really give a crap, but engines? Yeah, lots of moving parts in there that much prefer being coated in oil.

That's why I get my gas from the Co-Op (Country Mark brand) here. It's non-ethanol. I don't even need to use fuel stabilizer in the off season because the gas is still good after sitting that long. I typically get the 92 octane.

I have had terrible luck with them from China. Not drilled or ported properly, fire up the engine and it dies anywhere above an idle. Sometimes have tried 2 or 3 figuring something was wrong, with the same poor results. It takes drilling out the jets, and ports if U can figure where the imperfections are to make the machine run. (Often, if U can get it to run at all) The price is cheap, and so is the product. Parts are not interchangeable with the factory carbs either. I do work on a lot of these small engines, and I do not feel that these are the way to go. The linkage and things are off too, and even trying to adjust the governor to work with one of these properly is difficult or not even possible at times. I run premium gas and avoid ethanol. It's a nice kit if U like a fuel restriction right out of the box. Way happier with a factory carb.

3:12 what tool is this?!

Most parts nowadays are made by the commies, rebranded, and sold as something made elsewhere

I have the HS5 and need to do a valve job. One thing I noticed is when you reinstalled the exhaust valve you had two retaining clips but when I pulled my intake valve it only had 1 retaining clips is that normal?

I wonder if there was frozen water / ice in the carburetor that never melted.

You forgot to change the rubber drive wheel that's all cracked up as long as you have it apart.

Can anyone help me find a carb for my tecumseh 64-1025? I’m struggling to find a good one

That’s a nice job you did man 👍

Yup. She moved

I picked up a 1966 ariens snowblower off a tree lawn I rebuilt the carb tecumish engine new head gasket new coil new points and condenser wasent that much money probably under $100 bucks runs great is a beast in the snow by the apron by the street it plows right through that wet stuff where the new snow blowers are struggling so old is way better than new in my opinion because they were built too last not throw away

Yeah, there’s some good. There’s some good and bad with those Amazon carburetors but I like the Dump on bowl. Because here in south eastern sometimes we’re due for a crazy winter and then there’s times where we barely get the snow and maybe the snowblower will get used maybe once or twice a season

i put chinese carburator and surge more than the old 29 years old dirty one... I don't know if the jets are bad refined. Main jet holes look not perfectly round. The idle jet has too little holes to notice.

5/8 plug, emissions carb, plastic tank def not 60s.

It wont perform miracles but It works if used right. You used too much and didnt let it sit long enough. 1 to 2 ounces shouldve been fine. 8-24 hour sit. Fill with gas. Let it run. Too much and it will barely start if not at all, as well as gum up the system. Its best used in small amounts over time at fill up or for fuel storage.

just repaired a 1984 toro 724 looks very similar just a bigger engine. These things are tanks man the auger is very heavy duty compared to most.

What do you find works best as a ultra sonic fluid on the carbs?

I have used it a few times on Leaf Blowers, String trimmer and a couple of 4 stroke engines. I disconect the fuel line at the tank drain the fuel then put a tiny funnel in the fuel line and fill up the carb with straight Mechanic in a Bottle. On the little two strokes I empty the tank and put the whole bottle in . I put the coke on an pull it a few times to get as much in as possible. I also put some fuel in the carb or in the plug hole and run the engine on the fuel I put in to theoretically suck the Mechanic in a Bottle through what ever passages are not completely plugged up. Let it sit for a day or more and repeat the process. I always drain out all the Mechanic in a bottle through a Harbor Frieght paint strainer and store it for future use. I dont think its flamable enough to run the engine on straight out of the bottle but I might be wrong. I have some ancient junk that I basically trash picked or was given to me. So far everything I used it on ran again including a mower that sat for 12 years without getting drained out. That one I kept running by pouring small amounts of fuel in the carb. It smoked horribly which I assume was the mechanic in a bottle I had in the carb bowl. The old girl acctually ran on its own after that treatment ! It cleaned out my snowblower so well it started leaking out of a clogged vent hole and I had to re adjust the float height . To sum it up anecdotally - drain the bad fuel out and put as much in straight as you feel like paying for or feel will get into the carb and fill up the bowl. Fiddle around and try to get it to suck as much in the various carb passages as you are comfortable with and let it sit. I personally drain it back out because it is a bit pricey. From what I see it does break up the gum in the Carb. I have no idea what it does mixed with the gas. If you are not mechanically inclined and arent comfortable with disassembling the fuel tank do your best to drain the tank . Put in 6 or so ounces or enough to fill the bottom 1/4 of an inch of the tank so it can get into the carb. When you are done letting it sit top off the tank with fresh fuel and see what happens. Maybe thin it out to a 75% Mechanic in a bottle to 25% Gas mixure. Most snake oil fuel treatments I have used I over dosed massivly and had OK results ( E.G. Stabil and Startron Fuel stabilizers ) I leave most of my gasoline equipment sit for around a year. It hasnt failed me yet but like most annecdotal evidence your results may vary . At the worst you clean out the tank and lines for when you take of the carb and clean it for real or install a cheap amazon carb on it. I have had good luck with Amazon Carbs so far too but they were not really nescary due to the miracle of mechanic in a bottle. They do have high and low adjustment screws on the two I bought that was a plus . Best advice is to install a fuel shut off after the fuel filter and let them run dry that works really well. If you are feeling crazy store it with Mechanic in a Bottle or Straight Stabil /Startron in the carb bowl but I dont think you have to. I definiely think sitting for a long time would clean up the carb well. I just want the thing to start right up next year. So far so good lol . Good luck and Godspeed www.harborfreight.com/automotive/auto-shop-tools/lubrication-service/funnels/4-piece-funnel-set-744.htm Tiny Harbor Frieght Funnel set- Smallest one fits in an 1/8 fuel line www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-100-110-to-120-mesh-paint-strainers-91378.html Paint Strainers that fit in Funnels to transfer fluids semi-cleanly. Not perfect but WAY better than nothing

Kool

Nice video thank you. I picked up an old 524 on an auction. It's wiring is cut everywhere. Where can I find a wiring diagram for this machine? Or do you maybe have info on how the machine should be wired?

Adjustable for me, when it's -20 F I hear hunting snowblowers up and down the street. Except one, and all it took was a little tweak on the main. Done much sooner with a blower that runs right.

For about the same cost as that bottle, you can buy a new carb from EBay. When alcohol and water corrode your float bowl, this stuff is not going to remove the debris. Just did this on a snowblower I bought, carb was $9.99.

Martin Scott Thomas Michelle Smith Sarah

I have no idea about motors... but you're saying carbon-dater/carber-trator.... but are you being funny as in you're saying silly names for carburetor?

I found one on the side of a road and it was in a flood that happened but today i got it started and i think i did good at kinda young age and i did have help but i got it started

no the carb you get on amazon are shit they dont come with the second cent or no cent at all they run and stop or dont run at al piece of shit $20 ya your throwing your money out the window, there china junk

I can't see calling it "Sleazebay" considering how you benefited from it. Many times we would be "up a creek" on a needed part or other item were it not for eBay.

I set the points no spark sill 😢

Shout out Buffalo!

on mine i need to put the choke on every time to start it even if it’s warm is that normal?

The main is dirty. Very simple

Those predators are more reliable than the inteks

Looked better b4

12:25 min, I would probably use a dremel tool.

6:46 min, Rubber tiped needles are great.

Very real. Do with what you have. I think you were pretty happy with your result. Good job.

"Her/she"? * "Him/he"!