@@derekjohnson9536 you can email me at [email protected]

Ask your questions i can potentially make another video

@@JZsMK6.5so I’m trying to install an aftermarket turbo inlet into my mk7 Jetta but but there are two lines running into the turbo inlet. I’m kinda just confused on what to do with those two lines as from what I can see you still are running the oem inlet. Would it be fine for me to cut the line and simply cap it closer towards the Charge pipe. As well what would I do with the other line

@@JZsMK6.5okay maybe I’m starting to understand would my solution be just capping the line from charge pipe and then running that 3/8 line to check valve from the throttle bottle as you said?

@bastacio1764 so on the mk7 one of those ports is "secondary air" should go back to your intake. The other line is evap and it goes to that T with one line tracing to the charge pipe and the other going to that t valve under the IM

@@bastacio1764 so if you're putting in an inlet with no ports, you'll need to cap the secondary air on your intake, and then assuming you're going to keep using a charge pipe with a evap port, you'll have to run the evap port straight to the part i put a cap on.

hey what do I do with the red and black wire that have the little silver tip that looks like a U

​@funterror2725 are you maybe talking about the Bluetooth control connection?

@@JZsMK6.5I honestly have no clue do you have any way I can contact you to show you a picture of it

@@JZsMK6.5I rewatched your video and noticed you don’t have those 2 wires poking out it’s just a red and black one with a silver U connector at the end of it and it seems like my wireless adapter came pre-installed as well

I have them made, i responded to your fb message.

No idea yet, car is in pieces still for another week or so probably. Also if you have the money, just get bfi they make the correct mounts for both sides total is around $600 & they are 70A

What car do you have?

7.5 golf 1.4 just got a downpipe waiting to get it installed already got a cai. probably going to go is20 sooner or later hopefully due to insurance prices in the uk it was3000 pounds @@JZsMK6.5

@@matthewmitten83 you're, euro spec so you have dsg dq200 yes?

i wish mq200....

🤣 yea, it wasnt a project i was expecting to take on, was kinda just thrown at me.

AliExpress or ebay they're like $15

Its a replica, the box where the serial number is supposed to be wasnt there, the bolt design matches all the online videos of how to spot a replica. When i bought it they had everywhere that said hks blured out. I suppose theres a small chance its real, but i doubt it. If theres a way to run the serial number and you have a link for it drop it I'll run the number. Also i paid $40 for it so would be surprised if its real, unless they are making them in China and the manufacturer is selling them illegally to make more money?

@@JZsMK6.5 I see where you're coming from. The pricing is a dead giveaway. How many bolts are holding the diaphragm together?

@Scylvur it has the correct number of bolts as the legit one, but the bevel is different.

@JZsMK6.5 gotcha. Following post because I have a replica and mine looks nothing like yours (hardware bolts on diaphragm, serial number, badging, etc).

@Scylvur you can find these all over ebay, $45 now a days. You can see they look just like this. There's still some plain ones out there, but there are a lot with hks plates and fake serial numbers.

You can expect 15-20° IAT over ambient temperature. If ambient is 85-95°F. In colder weather it runs about 8° above ambient.

thank you for reply@@JZsMK6.5

Yea theres a hose that goes there, think it comes off the TB not sure, been a min. I do show the hose in the video though i remember, and i zip tied it on.

Havent had any issues with closing, opening, or staying open.

@@JZsMK6.5nevermind i made a mistake! Works now!

Yea, i don't really ever tq anything to spec unless it's a serious drivetrain part. Just good and tight will do for IM and IC

None, at all!

I’ve been going back and forth on how I want to build my custom exhaust. I saw how the catback systems are for this car. They like to put a mid muffler with a rear resonator. Is there a reason for this? Just trying to keep that pure turbo sound without too much rasp.

@masonteeter6200 not exactly sure what you mean, stock the resonator is pretty much just b4 the muffler. The bends are really tight stock and obviously work out perfectly. Custom shops have a hard time making those bends, so they tend to put the resonator just past where the DP ends. A tube res fits there perfectly, but you can squeeze the ultra quiet in there. They already have difficulty making bends for the muffler, it is a side inlet vs most aftermarket which are center. If i did it again, i think i would run the vibrant tube just after the dp, have them put the work in to run the ultra quiet in stock resonator position, and then still run the vibrant muffler. There is zero drone when drivin as is,, but its still loud af (imo) under WOT.

@@JZsMK6.5 to clearify, I’m thinking about putting the uq resonator at the rear with some dual tips and putting a borla s type muffler in the mid. Borlas cbe system has the stype muffler in the mid and delete in the rear.

It's the regulator, but thanks

That's not going to make a difference in the sensor reading.

@@JZsMK6.5 no but I had issues with it leaking…. Mine had a ridge on the bottom. But only one side.

Using this location instead of the IM tap location makes it so the sensor has accurate readings. I currently run 16° above ambient constantly with my FMHE setup.

Shouldn't how did you run it. If you're NAR did you reconnect the ground wire?

@@JZsMK6.5 I cut the ground wire by mistake

@juancarlosparra6933 most likely why you're getting the code, try throwing a new ground on and see if it goes away

@@juancarlosparra6933 did you get that fixed?

@@JZsMK6.5 thank you! The light now is off. The out connector in the catch can is to the turbo right?

Does what require a tune? Sorry it's not showing me what video this comment is on.

Stock hks insert will give you the chirp

Its a hks bov

@@JZsMK6.5 what is your charge pipe setup tho Ik the his chirps but I can’t find a pipe that I can fit it too

?

@thercwarehouse9145 its a AliExpress aluminum pipe but you should be able to use the coupler that comes with a hks in a forge pipe/ forge style if that's what you have.

@@JZsMK6.5 yes mine has a line under the maf like yours and I need that connected trying to find one with a port

Check out EA211 Owners Group on FB

Doubt its the tune check your evap lines

Hose underneath IM popped off.

The one underneath?

@@JZsMK6.5 yes

Besides the turbo being dirty.....the high pressure fuel pump also had an issue leaking fuel into the cam cover contaminating the oil and lacking enough pressure to feed the injectors causing misfire and difficult start up....had to replace the pump since i wasnt sure wether the pump can be rebuild

the two bottom clips are pain to undo as you cannot see them. i managed it by puling the manifold from the head and undo it with a pry bar both from right side.

I would just get a 290bhp hybrid from TTE or RTMG. But if you're trying to stay stock you should be able to find one on Ebay pretty cheap.

@@JZsMK6.5 I’m planning on staying stock turbo as i’m gonna get rid of the car in october, but the pops and bangs made me turbo go. my fault for constantly abusing it, but i really can’t find a turbo for my specific car which is the 103kw/138bhp model

@Trippin any 1.4 turbo will mount the same possibly need a different wastgate to match it but they are all plug and play

@@JZsMK6.5 i saw a few turbos, but they are the 120bhp model ones and my map is 186bhp/351nm map was perfectly fine before i got the bangs added but i want to make sure it’s the right turbo :( it sucks without a car

@Trippin like I said any 1.4 turbo will work. Technically the 1.2 will work too but it's smaller wouldn't recommend. But any 1.4 regardless of bhp will work fine it's the same turbo!

Bad connection, over drawing the circuit maybe? Hard to say I would think it would have popped the fuse if that was the case. Have you considered running a inline fuse drawing power separately and connecting to the headlight switch?

@@JZsMK6.5 I bought the car w the fogs somewhat wired up, it’s getting power from the battery and it’s ground from there, it’s on a relay and is also fused, but then there is still no power after a certain point, I was thinking maybe a split wire somewhere? But I’ve went over the harness multiple times and can’t find a bad connection or split wire, I then said tuck it and wired to the headlights and disconnected it from battery and it defiantly would be drawing to much power, not sure what to do but it has to be fixed by Saturday😂

@wagwan203 all I can say is try and redo it as a separate circuit or triple check you splice connections. Best of luck! Sorry can't be of more help.

@@JZsMK6.5 thanks man

Did you watch the other video? Read comments I've covered this many times if you still have questions after that let me know.

@@JZsMK6.5 I looked, the link you left does not work!

@radmir_onetv yea I've replaced that link a couple times already.

@@radmir_onetv speedcooling.com/product/liquid-intercooler-heat-exchanger-cche-550-hp/?gclid=CjwKCAiA5sieBhBnEiwAR9oh2i57STmqJHaMhq5U-KsHwENZ6wHWI6GDDHGIOt1cb6y18STNNGrtQxoC_E0QAvD_BwE This is pretty much identical to what I have.

@@JZsMK6.5 thanks! otherwise I put a hybrid, dtsmayu over cooling