rabbits are a joy to have on the property!

thanks is for watching!

Thanks for taking the time to share!

Thanks for watching and sharing your comment!

I’m so glad you enjoyed it!

kzbin.info/www/bejne/d3ewZJutqsaFotEfeature=shared this video shares more about why folks are raising their own. When you haven’t raised livestock before, the whole thing could be foreign. Often when introducing livestock to a property it’s an excellent complement to the backyard. You get to enjoy beautiful animals and prepare clean chemical free meat from animals that have been raised humanely. It’s a satisfying and honest way to live and you’re doing it because you love your family and you want to provide healthy meat that doesn’t have hazardous chemicals in. Most of the meat available in stores have been shipped from long distances processed from animals that are stressed, and raised in horrible conditions and the meat has been sprayed with ammonia, carbon monoxide, dipped in chlorine, treated with growth retardance, the list goes on and on. These are things you shouldn’t be putting in your body. When you have your own meat production, part of your family can enjoy the animals and prepare terrific dishes, and other family members can handle the processing. Best of luck convincing them and thanks for watching!

So glad you enjoyed the video!

Absolutely here’s a video that shares more kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZPEhnh8fdSMrJIfeature=shared

Thanks so much for sharing!

I breed some doe’s through the winter and summer using kindling totes. This video shares more info. kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4TLc3ujp7GXrLMfeature=shared

yes, it wouldn’t be treated wood which would make it about 50% lighter.

Adding hay into their diet increases their fiber percentages to 20% which is ideal, whereas pellet averages around 16% fiber. Hay ensures a healthy gut and better digestion and all around healthier rabbit. Hay is also a Beneficial for their ever growing teeth.

Here’s a video that shares more information kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6OkkKSegLRjn9kfeature=shared

Thanks for taking the time to write your comment and share your experiences. I very much appreciate it! Best of luck with your Rabbitry!

You bet!

thanks so much for taking the time to share your comment!

Thankyou for that info. Just to check.. are you referring to the Silphium perfoliatum plant that has cup like leaves and a yellow daisy like flower? Native to Nth America.

@@nellieblighhill4575 yes

That’s certainly one approach, but it does present some challenges. First, let me say, thank you for taking the time to write your comment and share your experience. I’ve run into the same situation, purchasing rabbits from farms that have trouble with breeding but in my experience, it was due to infertile bucks, not keeping rabbits, shaded/cool, and comfortable. Here’s a video I shared about ditching cages(talks about some of the challenges and why folks still raise rabbits in cages) but at the end of the day you should raise rabbits they way it makes sense to you. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g5rOcomdaMiWmacfeature=shared

He said that wild cotton tails wean at three weeks... and from personal observation of the rabbit tracks throughout our property during snow season, I believe it - we see bunches of baby tracks nowhere near the adult tracks we find, so I don't see any reason NOT to sell kits as of 5 or 6 weeks, especially since they're already completely weaned by their moms at that point. Other animals, like puppies, kittens and piglets are sold while they're still nursing (8 weeks), yet no-one is out there screaming that these species need to stay with mom until 12-16 weeks 🤷‍♀️

well, you’re certainly gonna wean your rabbits before you sell them you want them to be weaned for at least a week or two before selling because of the stress that causes the rabbit. I don’t recommend Selling any younger than 8 weeks. That can cause a Rabbit a lot of stress, unless selling with a littermate this helps the move even when selling rabbits around two months, I still recommend to the new owners to keep their environment as stress-free as possible. As far as weaning and nursing goes, colostrum comes before cecotropes, but rabbits will start eating cecotropes in the nesting box before their eyes are even open -around two months old they’ll start to produce their own cecotropes. If you’re interested, we share more information on rabbits health in this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGi4ZKeNrrySjckfeature=shared

sure! thanks for asking! We all have different breeding programs. Try your best to feed a disciplined diet so your rabbits stay in great shape for breeding in the future. best of luck!

@@TheRabbitryCenter thanks! I try to follow all your feeding suggestions and they seem to be doing very well.

you can prevent flies by keeping your manure in check make sure you’re regularly removing it to your compost pile. You can hang fly traps. You also can spray mosquito repellent (don’t tear any greens that have been sprayed) around your hutch and use mosquito dunks in watering holes. You could try to use some plants that may deter insects but rabbits have a sensitive sense of smell as well. Best case scenario is screening in the Rabbitry hutch, but that’s something most of us will never entertain. best of luck!

best of luck with your future rabbitry!

lol idk they seem to be very relaxed dont they. it’s peaceful where they’re raised, there’s not many noises or disturbances. Maybe that helps. thanks for watching!

the-rabbitry-center.square.site/product/bunny-buffet-food-plot/37 thank you for your business!

Thanks for sharing!

Thank you Bobby, for all your information

Hello thank you for watching!

If possible feed mama (prior to the birth)the same greens you intend to feed to the babies so she can produce cecotropes. 3 weeks you can start gradually introducing small portions and slowly increase the portion size. here’s a video that shares more info kzbin.info/www/bejne/poqUhp9_atB1rrMfeature=shared

@@TheRabbitryCenter Thank you, thank you. I have read so much today and no straight forward answers. Looks like the kits will be having a new treat in the morning. You are of great service and appreciated.

Sorry, no Californians. We only sell New Zealand’s as of now.

We don’t need nesting boxes unless all our kindling totes are taken. Once the kits are 10 days old we remove them to a seperate cage with mama. we’ll use a nesting box for about another week to give the litter a place to cluster. This helps the rabbits stay comfortable and contained for easy inspection for the next 4 weeks until we start weaning them. thanks for asking!

It’s not for everybody. A lot of folks don’t want to work for anything anymore. I frequently hear “Too much work for me!” If you’re experiencing losses or small litters, you may want to watch it again, because this will solve those problems. Allow me to explain, kindling totes keep your bucks fertile your rabbitry productive and prevents frozen kits. Unless you’re selling your rabbits for two dollars it saves you a lot more than that. But this is for hot and cold climates you may not need it depending on your climate. best of luck with uour Rabbitry!

​@@TheRabbitryCenter If you want to spend an hour a day foraging for what probably works out to $2 worth of rabbit feed, by all means. Go for it. You do you. I'm sure there's a market for ultra-green rabbit meat. But if we're being realistic, the wear and tear on the body and the value of the individual's time are also costs to be considered. By time value, I mean if one were to spend that same amount of time doing something else, one could make more money than is saved by these methods. By wear and tear, I'm referring to not just the physical strain on the body but also the calories spent. It's a harder metric to quantify, but if I had my choice, I would not want to be kneeling down repeatedly every day. A part-time job paying minimum wage could easily earn more money than what is saved by foraging. And the rabbits themselves can work for their food. In my area, a purebred rabbit sells for $60 or more. That buys 200 pounds of rabbit food with change left over, or about 500lbs of hay. Don't get me wrong, I watched this video because I do want to cut my feed costs. I already treat my rabbits with weeds and garden scraps. But, unfortunately, I don't have the acreage, time, or physicality to dedicate to growing and harvesting rabbit feed. (Really, your land taxes must be negligible if you can afford all the space needed to grow rabbit feed. I'd like to compare the cost savings of growing clover against the income potential of growing a market crop in the same area. I bet it would still come out in favor of the market crop.) If nothing else, you've taught me that forage is great for treats, but won't replace purchased feed and hay for my operation. And, if I may be so bold, I think it's a bit of projection to say that my non-existent problems are a result of not following the advice in the video. I'm not having problems with my rabbits. I just came here looking for ideas.

@@IcicleFerret Thanks for taking the time to write your comment. We all do things a little different. Growing your own feed isnt for everyone. I don’t recommend it unless you enjoy it or struggle to provide pellet to your herd on a consistent basis. Folks that live off grid often experience shortages at the feed store and are more eager to learn how to replace pellet and that’s why we created our feed course. Our course shares how to incorporate a mixture of trees, hedges, herbs and vegetables to replace or greatly reduce pellet consumption and how to use food plots, and raised beds and gardens to provide a variety of choices for your rabbits (Certainly more than one small plot of clover and chicory). But growing, cutting, drying & bailing is laborious and not everyone is willing or able to do it. That’s why pellet, although pricey, is so darn convenient. But that said, you should feed what you want and create a livestock feeding program that makes sense according to your lifestyle and budget. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts. Feed video that shares more: bobby-s-school9.teachable.com/courses/2074272/lectures/48662439

Can you expand on your request? I’ll make a video if you need one or i can recommend one to help you. Thanks!

you might enjoy this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/m5yVgZShp7igrMkfeature=shared

Lucky rabbits feet is a popular byproduct (2) for $5.00 or better

kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXPWZoCjmtqCpNUfeature=shared

research egg yoke tanning

You said it! Rabbits are a joy to have on the property and a terrific addition to your garden and more.

thanks for sharing and watching that much! I appreciate the feed back- video has been edited.

@@TheRabbitryCenter of coarse! No problem. I would want the same for my videos 😁. Not to be nit picky but also the last question is missing the Q.

It’s recommend and considered best practice when building. It doesn’t matter much with older rabbits but the little ones definitely see some benefit to it

Thanks carl. There’s many ways to feed your rabbits and if you want to just feed pellet go for it. We all do things a little different and that’s ok. The reason your raising rabbits can greatly influence how or what you feed and even when you wean rabbits. Allow me to explain, As you may be aware, not all pellet is created equal and depending on the protein percentages, they’re designed for either older rabbits, or younger rabbits, But regardless if you’re raising pets, breeding stock, meat rabbits, our furry friends are built for a high fiber diet which pellet in most cases doesn’t equate to even 17% and question #6 is, what is the main component of a rabbits diet. A majority of pellet is built from Alfalfa hay. 70% of a rabbits diet is Hay due to their specific fiber needs. But at the end of the day rabbit Pellet due to its fiber inadequacies should only account for a small portion of their diet and their fiber % should be supplemented by feeding Hay daily which will assure a healthy digestion as well as healthy teeth. Thanks for watching and taking the time to share.

11:34 There’s some helpful info at the end of the video. Recommend for grow outs not permanent cages. Thanks so much!

A little bit of plum and cherry won’t hurt but a lot could have a negative impact on your rabbits health due to the cyanide in the cherry branches especially wilted leaves in the fall. I Avoid cherry tree branches, chokecherry tree, branches altogether. We have cherry trees on the property and I save the wood for smoking meat and stick to feeding rabbits other trees, like crabapple, pear, regular apple, willow, maple, black locus, poplar, alder, birch etc. there’s so many other good choices. Thanks for asking

@@TheRabbitryCenter thank you for replying. I really appreciate it. I'll just throw them to the dump. There weren't any leaves on them as it was pretty much a dead fall. And I'm from Canada so not much has grown yet

you’re very welcome!

lol I’ve been battling a cold and I sounded like a demon the last week. Finally had energy to upload a podcast. Working on some video content to launch this week. Thank you for staying tuned. I’ll see you soon.😁

11:30 you can actually create your own system using a combination of letters and numbers how you see fit but if you want to keep it simple, you can just start with A1 A2

thank you for sharing your thoughts and opinion.

How about bunnies?

No problem Rabbits process calcium and get rid of it in the urine and it turns it red. This is a common question when there’s snow on the ground because there’s red below the hutch

@@TheRabbitryCenter So that change in color happens ***after the urine is deposited? When it came out looking yellow/white? That was my real question. Sorry about the phrasing.

@@user-px7mc5vr1n If your rabbit is active and bushy tailed with clean eyes and nose and has a good appetite producing round firm manure. Its a fair assumption that it’s the calcium. It’s a common misconception there’s blood in the urine. No need to worry. Thanks for asking

thanks for watching! Flys can be a real problem, especially around the manure. Try your best to get a routine of removing it regularly and transporting it to your compost pile. If your compost pile is near your livestock you can turn and cover and you can also hang fly traps and also introduce natural predators like wasps are nematodes which will help the problem. Also, basil, mint, or lavender are natural deterrents if planted near the area. Best of luck!

@@TheRabbitryCenter You're my hero, Bobby! Thank you, sir! I'll be watching!

You’ll start with rabbits that are pedigreed and you’ll need to make a new pedigree using that info once you choose a rabbit to breed with. if you don’t have pedigrees, then you’ll start recording information, but this will take several generations so it’s best to start with a Pedigreed rabbits

@@TheRabbitryCenter I agree, starting with pedigree. Then starting my charts for this point forward. You are very helpful. I appreciate you. New Mexico USA if I was closer I would get rabbits from you. ❤️ Thank you

thank you for take the time to write your comment. I’m so glad you enjoy the videos